Do-it-yourself power steering repair UAZ Patriot

In detail: do-it-yourself power steering repair UAZ patriot from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Power steering GUR, device, repair, operation.

Attention! Proven method!
With the help of a modified puller for the VAZ 01-07 pump (Costs a penny) and two M8 bolts 65 mm long. Three things to keep in mind
1. the holes in the steering wheel hub are not drilled through 180 degrees
2. grinder cut off the jumper between the hole and the end of the puller
3. fake steering wheels do not have technological holes in the hub and this method will not help
Notes:
1. On sale there are pullers for the pump of different thicknesses - the correct one is >= 10mm.
2. Before picking up a grinder, you need to try on the puller on the steering wheel and outline the direction of future cuts. The Bulgarian will have to work seriously.
3. Screw the bolts (those that are M8) into the holes on the steering wheel and necessarily lock on the reverse side with nuts. (otherwise the thread will break)
It is necessary to press with the screw (M10) included in the puller kit.
Photo of the modified puller, puller assembly. Nuts of large diameter act as non-creasing washers.

The same problem arose. It was necessary to throw a steering wheel on a couple of slots, so I could not remove it. I had to disconnect the steering shaft and rearrange it in the slots. There is a barbaric way, but this steering wheel is too flimsy for him to touch. You can unscrew the fixing nut, disconnect the shaft and loosen the steering column bearing. One pulls the steering wheel towards itself, and the other hits the end of the steering shaft with a heavy hammer. You can make a fixture out of a nut screwed onto the steering shaft for half of its thread and a bolt screwed into this nut. And it is more convenient to knock on the bolt.

Video (click to play).

I have the one that they put on the latest new UAZs, so it can be removed with a puller without any problems. There are two special holes under the plastic blotch for these purposes.

Everything is very simple - you need a thick (5-6 mm) plate with two holes for M8 bolts screwed into the steering wheel hub. The plate rests against the shaft, the bolts are tightened, the wheel is pulled together. You can drill holes in place by measuring the distance between the holes with a caliper.

A corner 15x15 is taken, a piece is sawn off from it

20 cm. In it, in turn, 2 holes are drilled at a distance the same as the holes in the steering wheel (2 threaded holes into which the bracket for the bibical is passed), applied to the steering shaft and wrapped into the holes through the corner, which was two dope bolt M8. The bolts pull the steering wheel towards themselves, and the corner accordingly rests against the shaft, the steering wheel is pulled together. I changed mine from regular to deluxe. And I wanted to help a friend remove the new steering wheel on a zero car - so he unscrewed his head on one bolt - then he tormented the stub turning it out for an hour - so make up your mind.

Before shooting, water with VDshka or Unisma! Go easier!!
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It is pulled up with a simple device made from a sheet of an old spring. You take a leaf of the spring and bend one edge of it (see 5-7) under 90 degrees. This thing very easily tightens the steering tips, only the wheels must be removed so that they do not interfere.

Can be tightened with a chisel. To do this, you will have to remove the rods (not the tips, but all the rods - while the convergence will not suffer) and holding the hinges in a vise, move the plugs (unscrewing or twisting if necessary. I tightened it more than in the primer - until it stops and 1/4 back. While everything is ok.By the way, even the new tips are screwed in by 2.5 turns.
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To adjust the gearbox, it is necessary to unscrew the cap nut on the side of the gearbox housing (a large one, a key of 28 or 30, I used an adjustable one), remove the lock washer, tighten the adjusting screw with a “square” until the backlash is eliminated and assemble in reverse order. It is also necessary to check the condition of the tie rod ends, very often the steering play is due to them.

Before adjusting the steering wheel - to the central position and tighten not according to the most “I don’t want to”, but wisely. The witness himself, when the worm in the overtightened gearbox bit in extreme positions.Very annoying, especially on the road.
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It so happened that on my “loaf” at 91 thousand the resource of the steering gear was completely over. That is, the backlash was not eliminated by the adjusting screw, moreover, it became very tight to turn the steering wheel. In short - I decided to change this device. I read the primer, bought a new gearbox. and on Saturday, together with a friend, they began to tinker. The first thing they ran into was the removal of the steering wheel. You need a special puller, and instead, only a set consisting of a hammer and a sledgehammer and a long list of obscene expressions. After an unsuccessful hour of work with this set, the commander's decision came to cut off the steering column with a “grinder”. No sooner said than done, only the people from neighboring garages somehow looked strangely at this operation. Next, you need to remove the steering arm. There was a puller for this operation, but in the process of its implementation it was gone. I had to remove the cover with the adjusting screw, insert a “locomotive” key between the gearbox housing and the steering arm and blows a 10-kilogram sledgehammer on the steering arm shaft to separate these parts. The remains of the old gearbox were thrown away, transmission synthetics (GL5) were poured into the new one and everything was put back in place.
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UAZ does not produce vehicles equipped with military bridges + power steering (except for Bars). In my opinion, the problem is that military bridges have a larger wheel turning angle (or it is known that the power steering is unreliable.) On the highway, with the right convergence-camber, the power steering is not needed (on the Moscow Ring Road, I hold the steering wheel with my hand by the spoke for “weighting” - and I not one of the strongest), on bumps I try not to turn the steering wheel too hard (or do I encounter some special bumps?) [Commodore]

I have had power steering for a year now (with military bridges), and I must say that I am very pleased with it.
1. The car has excellent maneuverability - since the military has a larger turning angle of the wheels, the light steering wheel when parking allows you to spin literally on the spot. Try to do the same operation without GUR.
2. On the track, the car reacts less to bumps, it is easier to keep it on a straight line, and there is a zero, although not the same as on foreign cars.
3. Off-road is easier than an example - over bumps and ruts!
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In my opinion, this is a matter of habit. There is one more thing. What did you drive before? The base is short, so it prowls along the road. This is not even a generic feature of Ulyanovsk all-terrain vehicles, but a feature inherent in all short-wheelbase vehicles. So far I have ridden the “goat” and have not noticed any yaws. The hands themselves were already automatically correcting the movement of the car imperceptibly for me. But as soon as I drove a long-wheelbase car, I was horrified when I sat down in my own “goat”. And before that I went and did not notice.

It is possible to solve the problem, but only in a complex. Install a steering damper, good shock absorbers, eliminate all play in the steering rods, gearbox, swing arm, bearings, etc. and install good tires. It will get much better. But it still won't be perfect, it's not a VW. You just need to get used to it. Do not think that if the car is new, then there are no backlashes yet. That is why (because the car is new) it is still very badly done. Everything needs to be checked and tightened/changed/adjusted. If you do it by hand, everything will be fine.

1. Eliminate imperfections and backlash. 2. Get used to 3. not voiced by previous speakers: there are Gura with, so to speak, with a “minor” drawback - the operation of this device with a slight delay, with zero information content of the steering wheel, this leads to “re-steering”.
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In fact, it is more reliable, and by the way, cheaper imported from disassembly, for example, from Chevrolet. For example, Vadik has one of these on the “Black Cuttlefish”, after two of ours who died untimely.

I made a W-123 body from Merce on my UAZ. The gearbox was installed without problems, but I had to tinker with the pump. Put together with the steering column and all the switches and the ignition! And it took about two days, taking into account all the preparatory work!

A joint product of Avtodetal-Service OJSC (Ulyanovsk) and ZF Lenksysteme (Germany) for the production of Power steering gear (31608-3400500) (hereinafter referred to as the “Mechanism”) for UAZ cars of the brand: passenger cars 3160, 3162, 3163 and cargo UAZ 2360-Pickup.

The complete set of the “Mechanism” includes parts manufactured by ZFLS (Germany): a high-pressure pump, a distributor with a screw and a piston with a rail assembly, needle inlet and outlet hoses, an oil tank, a tank fastening clamp, a bracket, a pump holder, a V-ribbed pulley , fixture.

Test tests gave the following results (tests were carried out on a serial UAZ-31622):
1. Effort on the steering wheel: to the left 2.0 kgf; right 2.6 kgf;
2. Steering wheel self-return speed: 246 deg/s;
3. Repositioning speed: 76.1 km/h;
4. Cornering speed R 35m: 69.5km/h;
5. Gear ratio of the steering mechanism: 17.23.
The sale of a complete set of steering gear with hydraulic booster is carried out by Tekhresurs LLC.
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You can rotate, but it is undesirable to drive like that for a long time. This option was from the factory - a gearbox from the power steering, but there was no pump and other things. He traveled several thousand - then the play in the gearbox increased.
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The invention is not mine, it is from the ancients and chorus. forgotten "experienced advice". In quality anthers USE covers of ball pins from ZAZ-968 A, M, slightly cutting them off from above.
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A complete list of components, as well as a drawing and description of the power steering, installation procedure, operation and maintenance of the power steering HERE.

According to rumors, the Sterlitamak one is better than the Borisov one, although it is “tighter” (the gear ratio is less). External difference - for Sterlitamak hoses go from above one after another, for Borisov - one from above, one from the side.

According to the Ulyanovsk masters, the Borisov GUR is more reliable. Also GURs, in my opinion, differ in the number of turns of the steering wheel (3 and 5).

Borisov power steering is really very powerful, even on 35s with -19 discs it turns without feedback. But Sterlitamaksky is much more informative.

The plant does not make wagon-mounted cars with power steering - the issue is being resolved; wagon layout cars, on gear axles and with power steering (and even without power steering) do not do it at all.

It worked out surprisingly well for me. Although at first I learned that hydraulic boosters are not put on a loaf. But I didn’t have the strength to fight the steering wheel (especially off-road) and I decided to attach an ordinary UAZ hydraulic booster using a cunning bracket. From Ulyanovsk, they brought me a factory kit for installation on a UAZ-31514. When I found out that these hydraulic boosters are made here in Belarus in the glorious city of Borisov, we decided to go to the factory with a mechanic to consult. And lo and behold - it turns out a month ago, the factory workers made 5 hydraulic boosters specifically for loaves and went to Ulyanovsk to offer them to UAZ, but UAZ refused this development under the pretext that the body stamping had to be changed for this hydraulic. So they came back with these gidriki (for our happiness). In short, we bought ourselves one for $50. Became like a native. With the steering column, I perverted a little - I put MAZovsky, with adjustable tilt. As for stamping, there was no need to cut the floor. machine liftovannaya under the 33rd rubber.
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There is the most traditional rack and pinion worm gearbox, it is good precisely because it is light - it is easy to spin on the spot, and on the track, and it returns to zero itself, just hold on. The same is bad - on bumps it “answers” with lightning speed and ruthlessly - I, having broken two fingers with the old three-spoke steering wheel, put a weighted two-spoke steering wheel (in general, in my opinion, it is the most convenient of the existing ones).

The second option - Borisovsky or "luxury" has a powerful gearbox, due to it it is less sensitive, does not hit on the hands, does not require strong steering on the highway at high speeds. But it spins tighter than the first one and returns to zero less intensively, which, at least, annoys me.

The UAZ Patriot car in the design of the steering mechanism has a device that is popularly called power steering or hydraulic power steering. The hydraulic booster is a device through which human physical labor is facilitated. All a person needs is to hold the steering wheel in his hands, and you can control it even with one finger. In this material, we will consider the purpose of the power steering, as well as its device and the principle of carrying out repair work on the UAZ Patriot SUV.

The main purpose of the power steering device is to facilitate driving. Thanks to the power steering on the UAZ Patriot SUV, turning the steering wheel is much easier and more comfortable. After all, turning the steering wheel without an amplifier on such a 2-ton car is quite difficult, and this can provoke the development of an emergency while driving. In addition, prolonged driving would lead to rapid driver fatigue. Therefore, a device was developed that made it possible to facilitate the work of a person.

The hydraulic booster is a complex mechanism, which includes the following main devices:

Consider the purpose of each of these power steering elements.
Pump 1 serves to be able to maintain pressure and circulate the working fluid through the system. The pump is a mechanism that is attached to the car's engine and is driven by a belt drive from the SUV's crankshaft.

The hydraulic cylinder is designed to ensure the rotation of the wheels under the action of fluid pressure. The hydraulic cylinder is built into the system of the steering mechanism 3, whereby the performance of this function is ensured. Below is a structural diagram of the power steering device on a UAZ Patriot car.

Distributor 2 is designed to distribute the flow of the working fluid into the required cavity of the hydraulic cylinder. The distributor is the device by which a certain amount of liquid is directed to the hydraulic cylinder or reservoir.

Tank 6 is a plastic reservoir for storing and adding working fluid to the system. In the tank, in addition to the liquid, there is also a special filter and an oil control dipstick.

It is impossible to do in the design of the power steering on the UAZ Patriot SUV without connecting hoses 5. These hoses are designed to work under high pressure, therefore they must ensure high tightness of the system.

Fluid circulation through hoses is provided between the hydraulic cylinder and the distributor. Low pressure hoses ensure fluid flows from the reservoir to the pump and from the distributor to the reservoir.

The functioning of the power steering on the UAZ Patriot SUV is based on the movement of the spool when the steering wheel is rotated in different directions. During the rotation of the wheel, when performing a maneuver, the spool moves, thereby opening the drain lines. During the opening of a certain line, oil moves under pressure to the necessary areas of the device. The fluid exerts pressure on the piston, and it eventually drives the wheels to turn. When the driver stops turning the steering wheel, the spool stops and the neutral position of the distributor body stops.

There is a flow of fluid from the discharge line to the drain line, whereby the pump pumps oil through the system. In case of failure of the hydraulic pump, the loss of control of the car is not lost at all, which is another advantage of this mechanism.

It is common for every mechanism to break down, and the power steering on the UAZ Patriot SUV is no exception. The grounds for repair are the following signs:

Appearance of extraneous noise of the device.
The appearance of an oil leak on the elements of the mechanism.
The occurrence of microcracks on low and high pressure hoses.
Increasing the effort that must be applied to the steering wheel.
Decreased fluid level in the reservoir.

Repair of the power steering of the UAZ Patriot SUV can be done by yourself, but it all depends on the type of malfunction, so you need to first find out the cause. There are the following reasons why the device needs to be repaired:

If an uncharacteristic noise of its operation occurs in the mechanism of the device, then this indicates wear of the bearing elements. In this case, they should be replaced. But, besides this, extraneous noise can be caused due to the ingress of a third-party substance into the liquid or when filling the system with an unsuitable liquid.

If leakage of the working fluid is detected, then the place of such an action should be found. At the same time, it is important to examine all the junctions of the hoses, where most often the working fluid leaks.

If the oil level in the power steering reservoir decreases, then this indicates the need to replace the reservoir or connecting hoses soon.

The presence of microcracks on high pressure hoses is a key sign that the device may soon fail during operation. Therefore, during prophylaxis, if cracks are found on the hoses, the latter must be replaced. Repair of high pressure hoses is not carried out and after their wear, they must be disposed of.

With an increase in the load on the steering wheel, the hose breaks, which requires immediate replacement.

Image - Do-it-yourself power steering repair UAZ Patriot

1. Disconnect the bipod link from the bipod or jack up the front wheels.
2. Remove the cover of the hydraulic booster reservoir, fill in oil until it appears above the filter mesh, no more than 5 mm.

3. Without starting the engine, turn the steering wheel or the input shaft of the mechanism from lock to lock until air bubbles come out of the oil in the tank. Add oil to the tank.

4. Start the engine while adding oil to the tank. In the event of excessive foaming of the oil in the reservoir, which indicates that air has entered the system, turn off the engine and let the oil stand for at least 20 minutes until air bubbles leave the oil.Inspect the places where the hoses are connected to the units of the hydraulic booster system and, if necessary, eliminate leaks.

5. Let the engine run for 15-20 seconds and bleed the hydraulic booster system to remove residual air from the steering mechanism by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, without holding it in extreme positions, three times in each direction.

6. Add oil to the tank if necessary.
7. Close the tank with a lid and tighten the lid nut by hand.
8. Attach the bipod link, tighten and cotter the ball stud nut.

The condition of the steering mechanism is considered normal and does not require adjustment if the free play of the steering wheel in the straight ahead position does not exceed 10 degrees, which corresponds to 33 mm when measured on the steering wheel rim.

Check the free travel of the steering wheel when the engine is idling by shaking the steering wheel in either direction until the front wheels start to turn. If the free play is more than specified, check the steering gear mounting, the condition of the steering rod joints, the condition of the steering column joints.

As well as tightening the bolts for fastening the forks of the hinges, tightening the nuts for fastening the bipod and lever, fastening the steering wheel, make sure there is no gap in the spline connection of the cardan shaft. Start adjusting the steering mechanism after eliminating the identified malfunctions.

Group: Users
Posts: 170
Registration: 27.3.2009
From: Moscow, South Butovo
User #: 37 129
Thank you said: 34 time(s)

m.novitsky

Yesterday I received a spare power steering Delphi with a suspected malfunction. I was tormented to deal with a knock in the steering and decided to replace the steering mechanism simultaneously with the installation of the bearing kingpins, suspecting that the reason for the knocks was in the backlash of the power steering shaft, to which the steering cardan is attached.

Knocks, like many, arose and began to gradually intensify from about 20 thousand kilometers. On a straight steering wheel, knocks were practically not noticeable, and when turned a quarter-and-a-half turn, they were noticeable even on tiny bumps.

Several steering components have been replaced, including the bushing in the ball. I suspected the steering mechanism itself when I felt play at the shaft entrance to the mechanism.

Looking ahead, I will inform you that the almost complete disassembly of the gearbox allowed me to draw the following conclusions.

Firstly, I did not find any obvious reason for the shaft play, except that the shaft does not match the diameter of the bearing at the shaft entrance to the mechanism, and the shaft itself is not rigid - in order for the spool that controls the oil to work. Apparently, this is the designer's idea and the backlash is a design feature? I can’t say for sure, since the spool cannot be disassembled and assembled at home, a press and equipment are needed for assembly.

Secondly, the wear of all parts of the mechanism for 36,000 runs is either negligible or not noticeable at all. This makes me happy! The details themselves look extremely powerful and reliable.

Thirdly, the mechanism turned out to be very simple in device, disassembly and assembly. The most “difficult” part of the assembly was to push the balls into the channel, it turned out the second time. As for maintainability, the conclusion is as follows: if necessary, any bearing can be replaced, all the main parts are very powerful and are not subject to accidental breakage. The weakest part is the spool, which is connected directly to the shaft entering from the side of the steering wheel, you should not force it by holding the steering wheel in extreme positions and taxiing with the engine not running. It is designed in such a way that it cannot completely break down, before losing control, but the hydraulic booster will be turned off for sure in the event of a breakdown.

In the following messages I will give photos of the inside of the mechanism.

The general arrangement of the mechanism is similar to this:

Post has been edited forger – 3.7.2011, 18:02

Task: replace power steering hose 3163-00-3408150-01 with UAZ Patriot.

Another problem from the Solers company in the form of a power steering injection hose is familiar to most UAZ patriot owners.
This is due to the fact that the hose “plays” under load, inflates as if alive, despite the fact that it is a HIGH PRESSURE HOSE!

Such a problem (although it should not have been) is only on Delphi, since only on this configuration the hose is made in usa, using a sleeve according to SAE J 188 in my opinion. Those. sleeve with textile cord. Depending on the material of the inner / outer layer, such hoses have the possibility of increasing the internal volume of the hose up to 30%. This is necessary to eliminate the hydraulic noise of the power steering system. However, in UAZ vehicles this is irrelevant, both because of the general noise and because of the remoteness of the steering mechanism from the driver.
And in this case, the use of such a sleeve turned out to be unjustified, since, according to the subjective feelings of the owners, there is ambiguity at the zero point.
In all other UAZ models (including the current version with a diesel engine), there is no such problem, because there is a hose with a metal cord. which complies with EN853. There is no volume expansion at all. All hydraulic impulses go into the mechanism without reduction. But there are no losses due to “inflating” the hose.

They did not expect?! Torn by hand RVD and its insides.

cut fitting. high-quality crimping, thick metal.

On the UAZ Patriot car, to facilitate its management, a hydraulic pump is installed, which is removed if the cooling system pump is replaced, or if it malfunctions. In this article, we will just talk about the procedure for removing the UAZ Patriot power steering pump. A pump with a catalog number is installed on the UAZ Patriot car - 3163-3407010. The price of the power steering pump is about $150. The cost of the pump is not low, which is why first check that the malfunction is in it, that there are no leaks through the hoses, that there is no air in the hydraulic system. If, after the audit, it nevertheless turned out that the pump is faulty, then we proceed to replace it.

To remove the pump, remove the belt from it. We already talked about how to remove and adjust the belt from the UAZ Patriot power steering pump in one of our articles - “Replacing the drive belt for the power steering pump and the viscous coupling for the UAZ Patriot cooling fan drive”.

After that, unscrew the bolt - the fitting that holds the discharge metal hose to the power steering. Take the injection hose to the side.

Please note that the hose is sealed with copper gaskets, which must be replaced at subsequent assembly.

Copper gaskets are disposable and are not meant to be reused. Next, loosen the rubber inlet clamp.

Now finally unscrew the 2 bolts holding the pump. The bolts were loosened when the belt was removed. Remove the pump.

After installing the pump, it is necessary to tighten the belt, this can be seen from the article that we mentioned above. It is also necessary to bleed the power steering hydraulic system, since without this the system will not work efficiently, which means the steering will be “heavy”. "Bleeding the UAZ Patriot power steering system."

Task: replace power steering hose 3163-00-3408150-01 with UAZ Patriot.

They did not expect?! Torn by hand RVD and its insides.

cut fitting. high-quality crimping, thick metal.

one end of the sleeve was with a tip, this tip was clamped in one of the fittings.

the steel sleeve is SHORTER than the rubber band, the second end is simply bitten off with wire cutters from the factory, without rolling.

factory hose label.

new high pressure hose for 380 points with steel threads. hard, but bends without problems, does not play during work.

A different location of the injection branch, now the hose does not rub the battery and does not stick out towards the coolant barrel.

independent, garage crimping to get to the service.

TO-4. Time to change the oil in the power steering.
I changed by substitution method. Of the consumables, you need two liters of oil, a power steering oil filter. And also a wrench for 10, a Phillips screwdriver, pliers, a plastic bottle, preferably two, preferably an assistant.
Algorithm:
1. Remove the oil tank (two 10 bolts), remove the filter from the tank. Drain the oil over the edge. You can not remove, but it turns out cleaner and nothing leaks.
2. We disconnect the reinforced hose from the tank (return from the power steering), lower it into an empty plastic bottle.
3. Fill in fresh oil (plug the return fitting from the power steering with your finger). If there is no assistant, we substitute another plastic bottle under the fitting. Cold oil does not flow out quickly.
4. The assistant turns the starter and steering wheel from side to side. And so we drive about a liter of fresh oil.
5. Put the oil tank back, install a new oil filter. Fill in new oil. We start the engine, turn the steering wheel from side to side. Add a little to the level of the grid.
Everything. Without the fuss of work for 40 minutes.
It is advisable to hang the front wheels. I didn't do it, but it would be more convenient.

Consumables. You need two cans of oil.

Visually, it looks like this.

I decided to make my life easier, or rather to make turning the steering wheel easier.

So - we order a power steering pump from VW Transporter (similar to Zf parts 2856701) and a pulley (similar to 038145255A). The pulley still needs to be screwed on with something. I took 2 bolts M8 * 16 and three growers M8. All this economy allows you to pull the pulley and does not come out from the back. We take native bolts to the bracket - those that remain after removing the native pump. The pulley is slightly smaller than the native one - by 1

2mm in diameter.
It's all about preparation.
According to Feng Shui, of course, you still need a key for 16 and 18 ... for 18 I didn’t find it in the store - it’s fortunate that the fittings are not pulled with foolishness and the key for 19 is quite suitable. You can do without the 16th. And if there is a drawbridge, then do not care at all.

So - unscrew the tubes, carefully drain the oil into a container. Precisely carefully and not trusting even ourselves, we hold and do not spill. Unscrew the casing, temple and remove the belt. The native pump rests on 5 bolts, which are carefully unscrewed, and the pump is retracted into the NC. We take a new pump, fasten it to our native mount, rejoice, fasten the pulley (it’s more convenient), rejoice, we begin to fasten the supply and high pressure hoses.

serving native from the opposite side ☺

It seems that the pumps are the same, but the places for connecting the tubes make them turn 180 degrees. Solution - since it is VERY DESIRABLE to make a new high-pressure hose for pressure> 120bar, then first we lay the hose as needed, notice which way the fittings look and then order. I also already redid this hose and the toad just strangled me to give more money, so I laid it as best I could and pulled it with ties so that it wouldn’t weld anywhere and wouldn’t fray.

tightened the hose from the manifold to the tank with ties

in the drain hoses look in one direction

Another misunderstanding - someone bought up the "cheap pumps" Starke, and I had to choose something else. The choice fell on Timmen.

So - the hole for the tube is a little longer and I had to wind a couple of turns of copper wire under the fitting so that the tube is attracted to the pump housing.

from this tube dangles without alterations due to the short thread on the fitting

Again, it is VERY DESIRABLE to make some kind of radiator for the ATF GUR. I looked in stores - nothing impressed me more than my own Patrovsky oil cooler. 550 rubles for almost 3 meters of aluminum finned tubes. Introduced it to the "reverse". At first, I thought for a long time where, but for the supply, the inner diameter is much larger than the return. So this was the “decisive” factor - and it’s probably better to cool AFTER than BEFORE.

you can't even see it from the outside

connecting tubes bent in the other direction

there is a distance - they will not warm each other

Started, poured, twisted - with a radiator, the system refused to be pumped. I had to pump the radiator by gravity, and the system without it. Then connected. When working, it gets warmer - it means all the rules.

Now about the results. On the field, the steering wheel calmly rotated by the efforts of a 6-year-old youngest son.
Well, since I simultaneously replaced the old dead power steering with a “new” one - the same, only with a range of 10-20tkm across Russia, now the song is generally - everything steers, returns to zero and does not knock on the field.

Video (click to play).

The content of the article:
1. Repair of the UAZ Patriot steering gear.
2. Adjustment of the steering gear UAZ Patriot + video on

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