In fact, according to the observations and assessments of specialists, repairing the brake master cylinder in a garage rarely leads to the desired result - an increase in the effectiveness of the brakes.
The recommendation is simple - it is easier to replace the complete brake master cylinder if it is not just about replacing the rubber seals.
When replacing the reservoir of the master brake cylinder, it is recommended to change the gaskets, having previously slightly lubricated them with brake fluid.
When completely replacing, or dismantling for repair of the master brake cylinder, first pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir and plug the pipelines.
It is strictly forbidden to repair the brake master cylinder pressure regulator. The characteristics of the regulator are set by the manufacturer during manufacture, therefore the pressure regulators are changed in the kit.
After repairing the brake cylinder, do not forget to bleed the brake system.
Good luck with your brake master cylinder repair.
VIDEO
The abrasion on the right near the stem is from the vacuum booster spring.
It can be disassembled very easily and simply, from the tool we need platypus pliers, a small flat screwdriver, a vice (optional) and some long rod (when assembling).
So, all the insides of the master brake cylinder are held together by a spring ring. We grasp the ears with the platypuses and squeeze the ring. If you have a tool with a notch on the jaws, then you can easily pull out this ring. If not (like mine), then you have to contrive and stick the tip of a flat screwdriver between the compressed ring and the cylinder.
Above in the photo is a tool and a ring extracted with it.
Floating piston On the right, the valve roll is visible. The seals on the piston should be open outward from the middle.
Why didn't my brakes get pumped with this GTZ? It's very simple: dirt and rust under the valves prevented them from closing.
After assembly (with the same petroleum jelly), the GTZ even pumped air to itself. Tomorrow I'll put it in its regular place under the hood.
Above in the photo is a special key, which is extremely necessary for messing with the brake system. Without it, you risk ditching the union nuts on the tubes, and then you will have to change the entire tube.
So - the reason for the poor performance of the new GTZ is improper storage conditions and / or the Koreans saved on conservation lubricants.
In the process of diagnosing the brake system, the brake master cylinder requires special attention. After all, it is he who is responsible for the effectiveness of braking and his personal work determines the functionality of the brake system as a whole.
You can check and timely repair each of the key units and components of the brake system in your own garage. To begin with, it will not be superfluous to recall the constituent parts of the brake master cylinder, and indeed what it is.
The brake master cylinder is part of the dual-circuit braking system and is part of the hydraulic drive. In addition to the cylinder, the hydraulic drive has the following components: a vacuum booster, a brake pedal, working cylinders, an expansion tank and a system of pipelines and hoses for brake fluid.
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Before disassembling and removing the master brake cylinder, you should diagnose the entire brake system. Usually, the main cylinder malfunction is the uneven distribution of the working fluid along the system circuits. This may be due to airing in the system, or it may be the result of a fluid leak. Ultimately, there is an uneven distribution of pressure along the contours, and the intensity of the braking action differs for different wheels.
The control lamp is on - the system malfunction indicator.
The cylinder body is checked for brake fluid leakage. The connection to the contours is checked.
A check is made for the presence of mechanical damage on the cylinder body.
The pressure in the circuits is measured. To do this, a pressure gauge is attached to the openings of the circuits and its readings are compared with the reference values given on the pages of the instruction manual.
After completing the diagnostics, it is worth starting to disassemble the cylinder. To do this, you need to remove it from the car, having previously disconnected the outputs of the circuits. Then the cylinder should be disassembled and washed. It is best to replace rubber parts with new ones. There is a separate repair kit for each cylinder modification. If the rubber parts swell and deform during disassembly, this indicates that the brake fluid used was not suitable.
There should be no mechanical damage or scratches on the cylinder mirror and piston. If there are mirror violations, it is better to refuse repair and replace the cylinder with a new one. It is worth giving up trying to repair or disassemble the cylinder pressure regulator. For this unit, factory adjustments are provided, and it makes sense to replace it only as a set.
Attention! Before removing the master cylinder of the vehicle's brake system, completely drain all the brake fluid contained in the distribution tank and plug the circuit lines. Upon completion of the repair and installation of the brake cylinder in place, absolutely all pipelines must be connected in place, the brake fluid must be poured into the distribution tank and the entire brake system must be pumped until the air that may accidentally appear in it is completely eliminated from it.
As practice has shown, most cases of cylinder repair in a garage cannot lead to the expected result, so in case of malfunctions, it is recommended to replace the main brake cylinder assembly.
How to remove and install the master cylinder reservoir
You will need: a 10-key, Phillips and flat-blade screwdrivers.
The tank can be removed when it is necessary for preventive flushing or replacement. Also, the need to remove it sometimes arises when it is necessary to replace the rubber bushings of its fastening.
1. Remove the cap from the tank together with the level sensor float.
Place the cork on a clean cloth for cleaning. It is worth doing this carefully, because brake fluid can drip from the float.
2.Use a rubber bulb or syringe to pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir.
3. Press the clips from the tank on both sides ...
4.… and press down on the reservoir with a screwdriver to remove it from the main brake cylinder.
The rubber bushings connecting from the reservoir of the main brake cylinder must be replaced.
6.… and remove the connecting sleeves from the holes in the main brake cylinder.
7. Before installing the reservoir, insert the connecting sleeves into the holes of the main brake cylinder. After that, install the tank by inserting its nipples into the connecting bushings up to the stop by hand force.
8. Fill in brake fluid and, if necessary, remove air from the hydraulic drive.
How to remove and install the brake master cylinder
You will need: wrenches "10" and "13", Phillips screwdrivers with flat blades, a special wrench "13" designed for the nuts that secure the pipelines.
This is what a special wrench looks like for the nuts securing the pipelines.
1. Pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir of the main brake cylinder using a rubber bulb or syringe.
2. Unscrew a pair of nuts to secure the pipelines to the cylinder.
3. Disconnect the lines from the cylinder and lay to one side.
You can drown the pipelines, for example, by putting on their ends protective caps from the valves designed to release air, so that it is possible to prevent the brake fluid from escaping.
4. If necessary, remove the reservoir from the main brake cylinder.
5. Unscrew the 2 nuts securing the cylinder to the vacuum booster from the brakes ...
7. Install the main brake cylinder upside-down. Replace the rubber sealing ring.
8. Hydraulic brake system - bleed
The vacuum brake booster enables the driver to use the vehicle's braking system comfortably and effectively. Those. he can completely stop the car at any speed just by touching the brake pedal. And when the VUT (vacuum brake booster) stops working, it greatly complicates the control of the car, the driving process itself becomes uncomfortable and, moreover, more dangerous, since the braking efficiency decreases. Therefore, a faulty vacuum cleaner must be replaced as soon as possible.
The brake pedal is harder to press
When you press the brake pedal, the engine starts to work unstable, stalls
With the engine running, a hiss is heard in the area of the pedals
The error "poor mixture" appears
In some cases, the cause of the above malfunctions may be a frayed or burst hose going to the VUT.
For the convenience of performing work on replacing the vacuum brake booster, you need to remove the battery and the air supply pipe from the air filter to the receiver. Otherwise, nothing will work out, or you will waste a lot of nerves.
The next step is to remove the brake master cylinder. It is fastened with 2 nuts to the vacuum cleaner itself. In no case should you remove it completely. It is enough just to pull it out of the amplifier and carefully take it to the side without bending the brake pipes.
Now you need to climb into the interior of the car. Here you need to disconnect the brake pedal and unscrew the VUT fastening bolts. To disconnect the pedal, just pull out the retaining clip and finger. Unscrewing the nuts of the vacuum amplifier should also not cause problems if you use a long enough knob, since they are in a very inconvenient place.
To pull the already unscrewed VUT out, I used a small pry bar, all because it is set on a sealant and it is quite difficult to tear it off with my hands.
A sealant is needed so that water, dirt, dust and other things do not get into the interior. For these reasons, the new vacuum brake booster also needs to be coated with sealant and installed in place of the old one in the reverse order.
[QUOTE = SergeyVK; 2317456]
What remained a mystery to me is why VAZ needed to do this with the length of the pusher.
> WHA was forced to do it.
This is essentially a bummer for Lucas as a supplier.
> LUCAS does not supply cylinders for original equipment separately from VUT. As, however, and all the others.
I don’t know for what reasons VAZ and Lucas didn’t grow together, but in this way they blocked Lucas’s way to the secondary market for spare parts for Kalin, which originally came off the assembly line with other GTZs.
> At least take a look at one conveyor Kalina with GTZ LUCAS
If so, then I overcame this pod and put Lucas on Kalina where the GTZ Axiom was originally located and which fell under the prescription for replacement (my car is not under warranty).
> I hasten to please, now there are VUT DAAZ with GTZ LUCAS of choice with MANDO and Axiom.
Find out how to properly replace the brake master cylinder with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions for novice car enthusiasts.
Do-it-yourself car repair, the work is not easy, it requires certain knowledge and skills. But what about a non-working brake master cylinder? Naturally, an urgent need to replace it, because without good brakes you will not go far. And in this article I will tell you in detail how to replace it without resorting to the services of a service station, because it is cheaper, and you will get new skills in repairing your own car, and even faster. In fact, there is nothing complicated, the whole procedure takes place calmly in your own garage or on the street.
The entire procedure for replacing the brake master cylinder should be carried out with an assistant without fail (at the end he will need to press the brake pedal several times). You also need to have a standard set of automotive tools (keys) for disassembling parts of the brake system and trim, and brake fluid of the same brand (preferably). The master brake cylinder diagram - will be suitable for those who decide to understand its work.
1. Disconnect the voltage from the battery - just remove the wire from the “-” terminal.
2. Carry out the procedure for removing the noise-insulating upholstery of the engine compartment. There is, in principle, nothing complicated, the main thing is to find and unscrew all the mounting bolts, as well as unfasten the hose clamps to the upholstery. Do everything neatly and do not pull strongly.
4. Next, you need to slightly loosen the four nuts that hold the brake pipes.
5. To remove the master cylinder from the studs, it is necessary to unscrew the two nuts that secure it to the vacuum brake booster. After removing it, you need to completely unscrew the previous four tube fastening nuts. But before that, substitute a reservoir under the master cylinder, otherwise a little brake fluid will leak from it.
6. Now drain all fluid from the reservoir into a new, inverted cylinder.
7. We put a tank with bushings on the new cylinder. If you bought a new brake cylinder without a reservoir, then there is nothing to worry about, you can easily put the reservoir from the old one. But also do not forget to get the two rubber sealing bushings from the old cylinder that secured the brake fluid reservoir. If they are worn out and cracked there, then you should buy and install new bushings.
8. Now install the master cylinder back to the vacuum booster and tighten the two retaining nuts. Then put the empty reservoir under the bottom again and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. It is better to pour in the liquid of the brand that was, not to interfere with several types.
9. This is where the help of the second person is needed, who will press the brake on command in the cockpit. Close the four holes for the brake pipes in the master cylinder with your fingers. Now the assistant should make smooth and slow depressions on the brake pedal until the brake fluid comes out of the front holes of the cylinder.
10.As the liquid flows, you can connect two tubes to the front holes of the master cylinder and tighten their fastening nuts. But the assistant at this time must keep the brake pedal in the clamped position.
11. Install the other two tubes to the rear holes in the same way: pinch them with your fingers; the assistant presses the brake pedal; how the liquid will flow - insert and twist the other two tubes.
12. Put all the parts that have been removed: connect the block with wires and soundproof upholstery.
13. At the end of the assembly of the machine, press the brake pedal and, if it is "soft", then you need to bleed the brake system.
In winter, I noticed a small drop in the level of brake fluid. I thought like the pads were brought up, refilled and calmed down.
Today I drove the car onto the overpass, looking for other problems actually that are not related to the brakes. But, during the inspection of the car, I noticed a wet vacuum cleaner. TZh flows out of the main brake cylinder (GTZ) and goes outside, at the junction of the GTZ with the vacuum booster. It needs to be repaired or changed.
Questions:
2. If I delay the repair, can I ruin the vacuum tank due to this malfunction?
3. Is it realistic to repair the GTZ? Or is it not worth contacting, but replace with a new one? I will repair and change myself.
4. If you change, which GTZ to take? Naturally I need a reliable one, I'll close my eyes to the price
Questions:
2. If I delay the repair, can I ruin the vacuum tank due to this malfunction?
3. Is it realistic to repair the GTZ? Or is it not worth contacting, but replace with a new one? I will repair and change myself.
4. If you change, which GTZ to take? Naturally I need a reliable one, I'll close my eyes to the price
Thank you dear!
Probably really needs to be changed.
Thank you dear!
Probably really needs to be changed.
As I understand it, after replacing the GTZ, it will be necessary to pump the entire system.
To pump as it is written in the book? - rear right, front left, rear left, front right?
How much liquid to take, 900 gram bottle is enough?
In winter, I noticed a small drop in the level of brake fluid. I thought like the pads were brought up, refilled and calmed down.
Today I drove the car onto the overpass, looking for other problems actually that are not related to the brakes. But, during the inspection of the car, I noticed a wet vacuum cleaner. TZh flows out of the main brake cylinder (GTZ) and goes outside, at the junction of the GTZ with the vacuum booster. It needs to be repaired or changed.
Questions:
2. If I delay the repair, can I ruin the vacuum tank due to this malfunction?
3. Is it realistic to repair the GTZ? Or is it not worth contacting, but replace with a new one? I will repair and change myself.
4. If you change, which GTZ to take? Naturally I need a reliable one, I'll close my eyes to the price
Since 90, the GTZ has serviced 1 time for the same reason - it was flooded in winter.Balakovo repair kit went for 8 years (since 98). vacum do not care. now I want to repeat it, because cylinder and pistons IN PERFECT CONDITION. if you work carefully, there is enough brake bottle for both pumping and refilling
Replacement and repair of the main brake cylinder on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic
There are two main reasons for replacement or repair of the brake master cylinder (GTZ). First, it should flow. Traces of brake fluid leakage are clearly visible on the vacuum booster or, in the absence of vacuum, in the passenger compartment. The second reason is the "soft" and ineffective brake pedal. The second reason becomes relevant only after checking the serviceability of the working brake cylinders of the rear and front wheels, and all brake pipes and hoses. If you are faced with similar problems and you are the lucky owner car Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic , then this article on replacement and repair of the main brake cylinder will be interesting to you. I can tell right away that this work is not difficult, only your desire, time and attentiveness are required. So, read on and get down to business boldly)))
In this case, everything is simple with spare parts. If you have a standard VAZ brake master cylinder , then we buy a repair kit of Balakovo production (photo 1). In the event that the master brake cylinder has already been changed and the GTZ of the company was installed Fenox or Basalt , then we are looking for repair kits from these manufacturers at car markets (photos 2 and 3). The fact is that the Belarusian manufacturer (phenox), and subsequently Basalt, changed (or, as the engineers of these enterprises believe, improved) only one cuff (responsible for the tightness of the cylinder), see photo 4 (standard on the right, phenox on the left). It is because of this that the cuff needs to be bought with a branded repair kit. True, it is worth noting the excellent set of repair kits from Basalt (these repair kits are suitable for Fenox), the manufacturer, as they say, took care of the little things.
Plus to everything replacement or repair of GTZ it is further bleeding and replacement of the entire brake fluid. So, we buy brake fluid without fail. Although there is only 0.4 liters of fluid in the brake system, I advise you to take with a margin 0.8-1 liters of DOT-4 brake fluid ... If you wish, you can also pump the clutch))).
By instrument ... For replacement and repair of the main brake cylinder on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic You will need - keys for 10, 12, 13, a small screwdriver, a special wrench for unscrewing the brake pipe fittings.
Now let's get to work! Description and photo report of replacement and repair of the master brake cylinder on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic :
Using a pear or a syringe, select the brake fluid from the brake cylinder reservoir. Using a ten key, unscrew the nut of the plastic tank fastener (photo 5). Unscrew the brake pipe fittings with a special wrench (photo 6). The ends of the brake pipes can be plugged with rubber plugs (photo 7).
Next, with a 13 key, unscrew the two nuts and disconnect the master brake cylinder from the vacuum brake booster (photo 8). We remove the reservoir from the mounting bracket and remove the brake master cylinder from the car.
Further, read only by those who are going to repair the master brake cylinder, and not change it entirely))).
For convenience, we can disconnect the brake reservoir from the GTZ. After that, you can unscrew the locking screws in turn. First, we unscrew the first locking screw from the cylinder plug, unscrewing the second screw, hold the piston from "sticking out" (photo 9).
The front brake drive piston will "jump out" from the cylinder without any problems. But the second piston (rear brake drive) with cuffs will have to be shaken out of the brake cylinder. We lay out everything that we managed to get from the brake cylinder.The picture you should get is the same as in photo 10. More details of the GTZ mechanism are shown in photo 11 and Figure 12. What should help you to correctly assemble the parts of the master brake cylinder.
The device of the main brake cylinder of cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic : 1 - cylinder body; 2 - lock washer; 3 - fitting; 4 - a sealing gasket; 5 - sealing washer; 6 - piston locking screw; 7 - return springs of pistons; 8 - cup; 9 - clamping spring of the sealing ring; 10 - a sealing ring; 11 - spacer ring; 12 - rear brake drive piston; 13 - washer; 14 - front brake drive piston.
After the insides are taken out, we examine the state of the mirror in the cylinder itself (photo 13). If there are traces of corrosion, deep scratches and cavities on the mirror, the GTZ should be thrown into scrap metal. Since further repairs will have a short-term result, and the cylinder will work for another week, two or a month, and will remind of itself again.
If everything is ok with the cylinder, then you can start replacing the cuffs (photo 14). After all the cuffs have been changed, you can fill the pistons with springs into the housing, after having lubricated the cuffs with brake fluid. Install the locking screws. Using a screwdriver (simulate pressing the pedal), we check the operation of the cylinder.
Video (click to play).
We fix the tank pipes and install the GTZ on the car. Do not tighten the brake pipe nuts, pour the brake fluid into the tank and wait for it to pass through the fittings. At first, the liquid will come out with air bubbles, and when the liquid goes without bubbles, you can tighten the fittings. Under favorable conditions, the brake system can then not be pumped. And if, nevertheless, the system has to be pumped, then it will be much easier to do it.
