The intake pipe, also called pants (because of its appearance), is attached to the manifold with studs and nuts. Its fixation with the neutralizer is carried out by a spring-loaded connection.
VIDEO
As you noticed, there is nothing complicated in this work. Each element is quite easy to dismantle, a new one is put in its place. Just be careful, proceed carefully and consistently. Plus, of course, don't forget about the importance of the quality of the new parts. Buy only good spare parts that will provide a long and efficient service of the exhaust system on your VAZ 2110 car.
exhaust manifold
intake pipe (No. 3)
resonator (No. 5)
main muffler (no. 7).
The exhaust system of the VAZ-2112 engine is distinguished by an exhaust manifold and a receiving pipe.
On most vehicles, the front exhaust pipe is fitted with an oxygen sensor (lambda probe). An additional three-way catalytic converter is installed in the exhaust system of these vehicles. Silencers and a neutralizer are non-separable units and in case of failure they must be replaced with new ones. The mufflers are suspended from the body brackets on four rubber pads.
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If there is a neutralizer, disconnect the attachment of the additional muffler to the neutralizer.
If there is no catalytic converter, then we disconnect the front mount of the additional muffler in the same way as the catalytic converter from the intake pipe.
To remove the resonator (additional muffler) you will need:
Disconnect the fasteners of the resonator to the muffler by unscrewing the nuts of the two bolts using two “13” keys.
Remove the clamp and ring.
Disconnect the two resonator mountings.
Remove the resonator.
The approximate cost of elements of the exhaust system VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112:
Silencer from 700r. up to 2500r.
Resonator from 700r. up to 3000r.
The spread in prices is associated with the quality of workmanship of parts (original, co-op). The catalog numbers of the exhaust system parts are shown in the diagrams:
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Replace the muffler or resonator of the VAZ with your own hands ..
A muffler is an element of the vehicle's exhaust system, which is designed to reduce the noise level of gases emitted from the engine. During operation, any mechanism loses its working properties (starts to rattle or burns out). It is important to be able to choose the right new product and correctly install it on your car. Indeed, as practice shows, often from improper installation, mufflers become unusable.
Original mufflers for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 cars are produced at the AvtoVazAgregat plant. They are famous for their maximum service life, since the manufacturer is not stingy with thickening the walls and using only high-quality grades of metals. In addition, the original mechanisms use a special sound-absorbing material - cotton wool. That is, AvtoVazAgregat provides owners of domestic cars with completely reliable and durable mufflers. The only drawback is their cost. A new part for the "top ten" will cost 2500 rubles.
In turn, counterfeits are sold for 1 thousand rubles and even cheaper. However, they are handcrafted in garage conditions and have a service life 3-5 times less than original products. In addition, the producers of cooperative "glushak" do not use sound-absorbing cotton wool and do not thicken the walls of the resonators. This suggests that such an element will not absorb all exhaust noise.
Before purchasing a new product, you must make sure that the fasteners are at the same level as on the old one. In fact, the difference between the models for the VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112 modifications lies in the fact that the fastening brackets can be distributed in different ways. There will be no differences for 8 and 16-valve engines.
In some cases, motorists buy the first muffler they come across for a VAZ of the tenth family and then use a hammer to adjust the fasteners to the right place. By the way, the procedure does not take even five minutes.
It can also be installed on a Polish-made Universal machine and device. However, it is recommended to immediately buy a resonator as well, since the inlet tube from Universal is 2 centimeters shorter than that of AvtoVazAgregat and cannot be correctly installed in the system.
Occasionally, a mechanism from the "Lada Priora" is used to equip the VAZ of the tenth family. The only drawback of such a product is that the pipe is bent downward at the end, so you have to cut off the end and weld the smooth outlet compartment.
Car enthusiasts have experienced in practice a simple and effective way to increase the service life of mufflers. At the same time, the technique is suitable for both factory-made mechanisms and home-made products. You need to take a drill and drill a thin hole at the lowest point of the pipe. Condensation will drain out of it, thus avoiding the formation of rust and corrosion.
The disadvantage of this method can be considered a deterioration in noise absorption.
The exhaust system on VAZ tenth models is practically no different from the systems of previous models - VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109. That is, the mechanism is a pipe that is divided into two elements: the muffler itself and the thickened resonator capacity.
All original mechanisms on the VAZ 2110-2112 are adjusted at the factory to ensure the minimum noise level while driving. In this case, engineers take into account not only the design of the engine itself, but also the car body. Therefore, after tuning the car, the noise of the mufflers increases sharply.
The main faults of the muffler are the factors that interfere with its correct operation:
the formation of holes in the case;
The most common problem with "glushak" on the VAZ 2110-2112 can be considered the occurrence of knocks while driving. Even new and original products can cling to the underside of the car and make loud noises:
not long ago got a license and became the proud owner of a VAZ 2112, the car suits in all respects. A strange problem appeared, the muffler began to knock on the bumper or on the bottom of the car, I’m at a loss to say for sure. I went to the service and looked and really said the muffler is a little crooked, as a result, they began to bend it? bent the departure of 20 km and the knock appeared again, it is interesting that the knocks are not constantly knocking, but at some moments, maybe when driving or standing at a traffic light.
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You can visually identify malfunctions in the operation of the device on the VAZ 2110-2112. To do this, it is recommended to drive the car into the inspection hole or raise the rear part of the body on a jack:
Inspect the entire exhaust pipe. The presence of holes can be noticed immediately. In addition, rust spots will indicate that there is clearly damage to the inside of the muffler housing.
Shake the mechanism by hand - if it sways strongly, then it's time to change the fixing rubber bands and the reinforced gasket between the muffler parts.
After leaving the inspection pit, start the engine and sharply press the gas pedal several times - black exhaust smoke indicates a strong burnout of the product.
The gasket is an indispensable element between the main muffler and the resonator. Since all parts of the exhaust system get very hot, the gasket is made of heat-resistant materials.
If, when replacing the resonator or muffler, you do not insert a gasket between them, then the junction will not be as tight as possible. In addition, when driving on uneven roads, the two elements will rub against each other and quickly fail.
There is no need to worry about the procedure for replacing the gasket: it has a convenient shape and is pushed onto the element tube with one movement of the hand:
Attach the gasket to the resonator flange.
Install 4 bolts.
Make sure the insert is kept in a level position.
Tighten the bolts as far as they will go without pinching them.
The VAZ 2110-2112 muffler is attached to the bottom of the car with special rubber suspensions. The elastic bands have minimal elasticity, so they can ensure the reliability of the fixation of the mechanism. Usually two rubber bands are used - one is located at the exhaust port, the other at the cavity with the resonator.
To change the suspension rubber bands, you need to place some kind of support (boards or bricks) under the device in order to fix its position at the maximum height. After that, the old rubber bands are removed. If necessary, the hooks on the bottom, on which new elastic bands are put on, can be cleaned of dirt and carbon deposits. Then the muffler is easily hooked onto the new rubber suspension. Suspensions are removed alternately from the front of the car to the rear.
Knocking is one of the most common problems with "glushak" cars on the VAZ of the tenth family. Silencers can knock only in two cases: when, while driving, they touch the body of the gas tank or swing so that they touch the body.
The knock can be removed by simply replacing the rubber suspensions: during operation, they can stretch, so the muffler no longer has a reliable fixation to the bottom. In addition, the "glushak" can often knock because it was incorrectly installed during installation: for example, the flange is not fully screwed in or the bolts do not match the length of the bracket. Therefore, the replacement procedure must take into account all the nuances of the correct installation of the elements of the exhaust system.
Before starting work, you must make sure that you have all the necessary tools and auxiliary materials at hand:
Cars of the tenth family VAZ 2110-2112 became a logical continuation of the VAZ baroque - front-wheel drive cars of the eighth and ninth models. They also inherited the engine with all attachments, and dozens of them were equipped with old carburetor motors, which were later replaced by injection ones. With all its pros and cons, the car was in trend for some time, and later moved into the category of utilitarian transport.
In the photo VAZ 2110 - a logical continuation of the VAZ baroque
Nevertheless, it did not become easier from this, and the breakdowns did not diminish. And there are no fewer people who like to improve the designs of old cars. The exhaust system most often falls under repair or tuning, since it also fails quite often. She does not have a certain resource, since the quality of the components from which the exhaust system is assembled is completely different.
That is why many people decide to take the situation into their own hands, since buying a used ten means being ready for anything. And the exhaust system can bring surprises at the most inopportune moment. To be ready to join the battle for silent exhaust or, conversely, a tuned noble sound, you need to know at least the materiel. Now let's try to understand the design of the VAZ 2110 exhaust system and find out what to expect from it, if it hasn't smell like factory paint for five years already.
Video tutorial on how to make an exhaust system
VIDEO The exhaust system of the VAZ 2110 with a carburetor engine was practically no different from the exhaust 2108-2109 and the like. Most of the parts are interchangeable, there are a lot of them on sale. Therefore, no questions have arisen with the replacement. The carburetor dozen exhaust system consists of a standard set of pipes:
exhaust manifold;
a receiving tube into which the resonator is welded;
rear end, exhaust silencer.
The exhaust manifold is attached to the cylinder head directly with studs through a heat-resistant reinforced gasket. It is made of heat-resistant cast iron according to the scheme 4-2. The manifold is constantly undergoing alterations from tuning ateliers, which replace the factory scheme with a wide variety of configurations and mountings. It must be said that replacing the standard scheme, and even more so replacing cast iron with steel, can not bring anything good to the car.
The exhaust manifold is made of heat-resistant cast iron
In the event that you are not designing a narrow-profile car for the competition. Moreover, for each discipline of motor sports, the exhaust manifold is configured separately and has some nuances in the design, which 90% of tuning studios do not even know. Moreover, their customers. In most cases, the appearance of the pipe is at the forefront, but how it will work there, by and large, is all the same.
It must be said that the exhaust manifold is a rather important part and making it out of steel, even the most heat-resistant, is a very dubious measure if the car will be used under normal conditions, and not only on the track or in rally-raids. The collector temperature in operating mode can reach 1000 degrees. Cast iron there is not at all in vain and not at all in order to make the engine heavier. Any steel will burn out rather quickly under high loads, so before buying a modernized super-Japanese steel exhaust manifold, it would be worth considering the feasibility of such a replacement. Most of the tens, thank God, do not participate in the world championships in circuit races, she simply has nothing to do there. Therefore, it would be more logical to correlate the rather modest capabilities of the VAZ 2110 engine with the level and quality of tuning the exhaust system.
VIDEO The exhaust manifold lasts almost forever and burns out in rare cases, and then because of a factory defect. As part of improving the manifold with more effective methods, we would recommend that instead of installing thin-walled beautiful pipes of space configurations, simply pay attention to the mating of the outlet ports of the cylinder head and the manifold holes. The fact is that the whole point of tuning an exhaust system comes down, of course, to an amazing increase in power due to a decrease in resistance to exhaust gases. So it is in this conjunction that the first additional power losses occur - at the junction of the collector and the cylinder head. If the outlet port and manifold opening have even the slightest difference in size or level, parasitic vortices are formed that prevent the exhaust gases from escaping. If this is the case - after the collector, you can hang at least platinum co-currents with Swarovski diamonds, there will be no sense. If we, of course, are talking about power saving.
The intake pipe is painted with heat-resistant paint to prevent corrosion
Further, according to the release scheme, the front pipe is listed. In carburetor engines, this is just a pipe, and in injection engines, a terrible part is integrated into it - a catalytic converter. The intake pipe on dozens of stock is attached to the exhaust manifold through a flange, a heat-resistant reinforced gasket with four or six bolts. The connection of the intake pipe and the catalyst is made in the form of a corrugated nozzle with a compression ring. The pipe must be made of heat-resistant steel of a certain grade, and in most cases it is on conveyor vehicles. If the car is more than ten years old, most likely, the middle part has already been replaced, so the quality of the steel from which it is made can only be guessed at.
Ideally, the steel pipe is painted with a heat-resistant protective paint to prevent the inevitable corrosion at least for a while. Often on pipes that are included in spare parts kits, the painting is more decorative than protective. Therefore, when replacing, many tend to install a stainless steel pipe. It makes no sense to change its diameter, and stainless steel will extend the life of the part quite significantly. If it is easier with carburetor engines, then in later engines with an injection system, one must reckon with a catalyst, which is worth saying a few words separately.
VIDEO They began to install catalysts not to make life difficult for motorists, but to reduce the level of harmful components in exhaust gases.The main task of a working catalyst is to burn off fuel that has not burned out during engine operation. By and large, it is designed in the same way as any resonator-type muffler. The gases pass through a fine mesh or a set of plates on which a thin layer of platinum-containing substance is applied. Reacting with the exhaust gas, the surface of the working bodies of the catalyst heats up to a temperature of 500-600 degrees, contributing to the fact that the remaining fuel burns out, passing through it. The average response threshold of catalytic plates or grids is 300 ° C.
And here the most uninteresting begins. The catalytic layer of the device cannot process an infinite amount of unburned fuel, bringing it up to Euro standards. Therefore, an oxygen sensor was installed to control the situation in the exhaust. The lambda probe measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases, and if the catalyst is not able to process the required amount of gases, the probe gives a signal to the electronic control unit. The ECU, in turn, adjusts the composition of the mixture so that the amount of CO at the output corresponds to the norm.
When replacing the front pipe, it is better to use a stainless steel spare part.
And this correction does not always benefit the dynamic performance of the engine. More precisely, it prevents the motor from working correctly. If the catalytic layer is completely burnt out, the lambda probe screams "guard", and the ECU turns on the "Check Engine" light for us. In this case, the replacement of the catalyst completely shines, since it is a non-separable unit and cannot be repaired. It costs as much as the entire exhaust system together.
The VAZ 2110 muffler was tuned in the factory and laboratory conditions so as to suppress the maximum amount of noise that the engine emits. In this case, not only the frequencies that the engine emits by itself are taken into account. The body of a car is a closed volume that responds to a certain frequency of a sound wave and has its own peak harmonics. As a result of research, it was found that to suppress most of the parasitic frequencies of the 2110 engine and its body, it is necessary to use the range from 60 to 400 Hz. This corresponds to medium and high engine speeds of 2500 and 4200 rpm. If at least some changes are made to the geometry of the 2110 muffler compared to the stock one, the noise characteristics will change unambiguously.
VIDEO Moreover, the main low-frequency noise is the hardest to remove. Therefore, if we talk about the fight against noise and tuning the exhaust system at the same time, then it is technically almost impossible to implement. The maximum stored power is forward flow, and the most comfortable sound is the factory silencer. All other options are compromise.
Burnouts, breakdowns and leakage of the system are the main malfunctions that the owners of the VAZ 2110 face. The most common cause of burnout of exhaust pipes is corrosion, a too rich mixture and incorrectly exposed ignition. Smoke from the muffler may indicate that the mixture is too rich and burns out already in the exhaust pipe, resonator. In this case, the muffler often fires, pops are heard, as a result of which the resonators and mufflers burn out. A knock on the body in the area of the resonator or muffler may indicate that, as a result of mechanical damage, the geometry of the muffler has changed, the suspension, cushion or rubber band of the damper has collapsed and the pipe knocks against the body. In this case, you need to accurately establish the place of impacts and bring the geometry of the system in order. If this cannot be achieved due to the deterioration of the elements, only replacement or strong repair will solve this problem.
VIDEO To repair mufflers, you can buy hundreds of types of sealants, bandages and thermal putties, which temporarily insulate damaged areas even without welding.Their quality is different, as well as the price, but if the question is to reach the season, then such a restoration option has a right to life.
Exhaust system VAZ 2110
Replacing a muffler for a VAZ 2110 or its parts is not a job that must be performed systematically. It is not often necessary to change parts of the exhaust system, in cases when the muffler starts to make noise, its elements burn out, or in the event of a break in the connecting pipes.
We are changing the muffler of the VAZ 2110, the replacement is made at the inspection pit:
The muffler is connected to the resonator through an O-ring, which is installed in the pipe flares and is compressed with a clamp that folds from two halves
We remove the clamp, then the ring, it is graphite and does not stick to the metal.
Attaching the muffler to the resonator
Removing the old muffler
We check the condition of the rubber bands of its suspension located on the sides of the muffler body. If they have cracks, or they are stretched, then they should be replaced.Muffler suspension elastic vaz 2110
We install a new muffler, first on the rubber bands, then insert a graphite ring (preferably a new one) between the flares and squeeze it with a clamp.
So we replaced the muffler with a VAZ 2110, replacing the resonator is the next step.
The resonator is attached to the muffler using a compression clamp with an O-ring; It is attached to the catalytic converter by means of a floating flange (two bolts) and flaring;
On the opposite side of the neutralizer there is a “fist”;
It is often problematic to unscrew the fist mounting bolts, they are simply cut off with a grinder and replaced with new ones;
If suddenly you do not have a tool at hand, we clean the bolt attachment points and process them with a “liquid wrench” (WD-40 or its equivalent);
We unscrew the bolts, remove the muffler clamp;
We take out the resonator from the suspension rubber bands, change the rubber bands if necessary;
Then we attach a new resonator to the rubber bands and attach it to the muffler so that the pipe going from the resonator to the muffler is parallel to the ground;
When there is a depletion on the fist of the neutralizer or there are burrs, grooves or rust on it, it is required to lubricate the connection with a special high-temperature sealant;
Using new bolts and nuts, tighten the flanges of the catalyst and resonator;
The neutralizer is attached to the resonator by means of a flange connection (two bolts), to the intake pipe (pants) by means of a spring-loaded connection and a pair of flares, between which there is a graphite or metal-asbestos ring.
Fastening the neutralizer to the resonator
Fastening the catalytic converter to the downpipe (pants)
When replacing the neutralizer, the springs and bolts are left with the old ones, provided they are intact.
We must change the ring - the gases making their way through it will quickly damage the flaring of the intake pipe and the neutralizer
Having installed the neutralizer, we tighten the mounting bolts, after that we tighten them, the first to clamp the bolts that secure the resonator .You can also watch the video.
The intake pipe (pants) is attached to the manifold by means of studs with nuts, and to the neutralizer by means of a spring-loaded connection
Removing the front pipe, we pay special attention to attaching it to the manifold. Instead of bolts, there are studs screwed into the manifold, nuts are screwed onto them.
Nuts securing pants to manifold
The nuts should be sprayed with WD-40 so as not to apply excessive force and to preserve the studs; Otherwise, the stud will have to be drilled if it breaks, this requires experience and considerable effort;
We replace the gaskets between the pants and the manifold. We also put a new O-ring of the neutralizer;
Then we firmly press the front pipe with the nuts to the manifold (squeezing the gasket);
We tighten the bolts of the spring-loaded joint with the neutralizer.
Now replacing the muffler with a VAZ 2110 yourself is not a problem for you.
It is possible to weld parts of the exhaust system only if they have been damaged as a result of mechanical stress.
In the case when the pipe has broken off, or the weld or the tank has burned out, you need to replace the entire element, it has already become unusable
The only detail that this does not apply is metal - expansion joints. They change independently of the exhaust system itself.
The cost of the neutralizer in comparison with other elements of the system is decent. Therefore, many change it to a stronger (flash suppressor)
The neutralizer is cut off, leaving only the connecting flanges, as well as the fist with flaring, and the flame arrester is welded in
The cost of a flame arrester is much lower than that of a neutralizer. However, there is no afterburning of fuel residues in it.
Often, car owners are faced with the problem of fluid leakage from the cooling system. Often the reason lies in rusted or squeezed out plugs of the engine block.
On the sides and ends of the cylinder block there are plugs that are squeezed out of the block when the coolant freezes in it
Two plugs with a diameter of 34 mm are located on the cylinder block on the side of the coolant drain plug, and on the side of the oil filter there are two more
On the rear end side of the crankcase, there is another plug with a diameter of 17 mm
The last plug with a diameter of 34 mm is located at the front end of the cylinder block
These plugs are replaced if the coolant in the cylinder block has frozen ... Plugs can be changed without removing the engine.
barb or chisel hammer pliers durable screwdriver telescopic magnetic pointer (available at any car store) new plug sealant skin
VIDEO
Remove the minus terminal from the battery
We drain the antifreeze from the cylinder block and radiator
Remove the air filter together with the hose
Disconnect the front pipe together with the bracket and lower it down a little so that the flange is removed from the collector studs
We turn the movable sector of the throttle valve drive until it stops and disconnect the throttle valve drive rod
We unscrew the bolts securing the throttle valve drive bracket. We take away the bracket, without disconnecting the rods to the side, so that it does not interfere with us.
Remove the protective belt cover and cylinder head cover
We unscrew the nut securing the tension roller and remove the roller together with the axle and a special distance ring, then remove the timing belt from the camshaft roller
We unscrew the bolt securing the pulley and take out the pulley together with the key.
We unscrew the nut that secures the toothed belt to the very head of the block
If necessary, unscrew the bolts securing the head and remove the block head.
Now that we have access to the plugs, the replacement of the plug of the VAZ 2110 engine block begins.
We take a beard or chisel in our hand, and a hammer in the second
We put a chisel on the edge of the plug
Gently tap with a hammer on the striking part of the chisel. The plug rotates (Photo below)
We tap with a hammer on the striking part of the chisel, the plug turns
We pry it off and pull it out with pliers
If the plug does not turn, we drill a small hole in it, screw the knob into it and take out the plug
We use a telescopic pointer with a magnet, if you need to get the plug that has fallen inside.We pull the failed plug to its hole, take it out with pliers
We clean the edges of the hole of the plug from rust with a sandpaper
To increase the tightness, we smear the edges of the plug to be installed with a sealant
We attach the plug to the hole
Press it in using a suitable mandrel and hammer
We press in the plug using a mandrel and a hammer
We install the block head in place
We fill the cooling system with antifreeze (antifreeze) or water
We connect the negative terminal to the battery.
Checking engine operation
Video (click to play).
If you do not understand everything with replacing the plug, replacing the plug of the cylinder block of the VAZ 2110 video.
