Do-it-yourself rotten cornfield repair

Among the models of the domestic auto industry, the VAZ 2121 stands out a little from the general range, not only due to its excellent cross-country ability, all-wheel drive and a monocoque body, but also due to the fact that Niva is the first independent development of VAZ that has reached serial production.
The car began to be mass-produced in early 1977 and immediately began to enjoy great success among the population not only in the Union, and later in Russia, but also in many countries, both near and far abroad. In its class, an SUV from Russia is considered the most successful model.
He found his consumer in France, Portugal, Spain and Canada. And although "Niva" in a complete set with a French diesel engine "Peugeot" are in great demand, cars with a domestic "1.6" are also sold quite well.

Body repair VAZ 2121 consists of several types of work.

Small scratches and dents that appeared during the operation of the VAZ 2121 can be removed with your own hands and is not even expensive at all.
For instance:

• scratches are repaired by polishing the scratched surface with various abrasive pastes and materials that remove the top coat of varnish and paint, and this evens out the scratched surface. In cases where the top layer of soil does not touch the complete removal of the scratch is almost guaranteed.

Advice! You should not be too zealous, because in this case we remove, not remove the paintwork, and if you polish one place for a long time and persistently, you can get to the metal itself, and this threatens with high costs in which you will have to include the column "painting the car".

Due to shocks, temperature changes and metal fatigue, the geometric dimensions of the car may slightly differ from those indicated in the operating instructions, which is fraught with the creation of unnecessary stresses in various joints and a significant reduction in the service life of the car itself. So checking and restoring the geometry of the car is the main stage in the overhaul of its body part.

The main geometric dimensions of the body of the VAZ 2121

If the result is negative, that is, when the actual dimensions differ from the reference ones, the geometry is restored by straightening (stretching / compressing) the body and its elements.

When deforming individual elements, the metal is straightened by tapping and extruding it.
There are two ways here:

• No subsequent painting;
• With subsequent painting.

In the first case, the repair is based on the principle of metal elasticity. Since every object with some kind of elasticity tends to return to its original position, this property can be used for your own purposes - a dent is squeezed out with a special tool and then polished.

Unfortunately, this method is available only for people with special tools and extensive experience. I am afraid that do-it-yourself repairs in this case will smoothly lead us to the second type of repair.

• In the second case, the dent is evenly tapped with a hammer or mallet from the inside, while a "fulcrum" with a rubberized soft surface should be applied on the opposite side.
• If the damage has sharper edges or is a deep scratch, then the support is taken not on an elastic basis, but as a rigid support or even an anvil. Tapping is carried out with a nylon or wooden mallet, from the middle to the edges of the dent.

Attention! The damage should be tapped slowly, and without applying great effort.Strong blows will only aggravate the situation, since the metal can flatten out and it will be impossible to return it to its original state in this way.

In cases where straightening by the above deformation method is not possible, the damaged part is cut out, a patch is placed by welding or using solder or epoxy glue. Otherwise, the element must be replaced.

Advice! If, nevertheless, you want to tap the part and at the same time try to preserve the paintwork of the element, place several layers of soft cloth between its surface and the stand.

Before starting this stage of work, you need to make sure that the end justifies the means. That is, if the part is already practically eaten by the rye, then, as the saying goes: "It's too late for Vasya to drink Borjomi when the kidneys have failed."
If everything is not so bad, then we choose one of two ways.
Method one. We solder the centers of corrosion using solder:

• Preparatory stage. We clean the surface of the body, remove traces of corrosion, process the edges of the holes with flux;
• Tinning. The surfaces of the "wound" and the patch (if any) are covered with a small layer of solder;

When restoring the surface by soldering, the next step can be skipped

• Direct soldering. In order for the seam to be tight and have maximum reliability, the surfaces to be joined must have as large an area of ​​contact as possible.

Advice! In order to hide the soldered patch, it should be applied from the inside, then level the surface of the part with automotive putty and paint.

Method two. We seal the foci of corrosion with epoxy resins:

• We process the restored surface with coarse sandpaper;

• We clean the surface from particles of abrasive materials, oil and dust particles, degrease;
• We cut out three patches from fiberglass according to a previously prepared template.

Attention! The patches should cover each other, that is, the first is 25 mm larger than the damaged surface to be covered, the second is 45 mm, the third is 65 mm, respectively.

• The patches are impregnated with epoxy resin and glued one by one to the damaged area;

• The resulting patch is covered with cellophane and glued with tape for tightness (so that the resin does not leak out);
• The entire surface is rolled with a roller until the overall shape is given;
• After 24 hours, the hardened patch can be processed - sanded, primed and painted.

Of course, it is advisable to watch the above presented body restoration work on a video illustrating DIY body repair of a VAZ 2121, but I think the presented material makes it clear the main stages of repair.

Due to the specifics of its operation and design, the VAZ 2121 requires increased attention, namely, increased control of the state of the body. In general, if you are the owner of a used "Niva" and are going to operate it as intended for at least a couple of years, carefully inspect the condition of the body of the VAZ 2121, whose repair and strengthening of its individual elements is more a necessity than a precaution.
Problematic areas that should be paid special attention to are:

• The bottom, namely its corrosion and through holes in the floor (very often the car overcomes water obstacles without further high-quality drying);
• Spars, namely, for cracks (the consequences of impacts with appropriate metal fatigue).

Side member cracks, as a rule, occur in the area of ​​the mountings:

• Steering gear;
• Pendulum;
• Engine beams;
• Front shock absorber upper bracket;
• Rear shock mountings;
• Long jet rods to the very bottom of the floor;
• "House" thrust "Ponar".

The photos below clearly show the body repair of the VAZ 2121, which has been in operation for only five years.

Restoration of the rear of the front side member

Front spar before repair

New, shiny - just like the real one

In addition to this, on the body you can expect some more "little things", namely:

Cracks in the most unexpected places

Complete loss of body parts

and car suspension elements

Since the work related to the restoration and strengthening of the body is very laborious and takes a lot of time and effort, the restoration of a car from an economic point of view can be considered cost-effective only when it is done by hand. And this means that when buying a rotten car, even when its price is mere pennies, it is necessary to take into account the future considerable costs of its restoration.
Reinforcement and replacement of floor parts and side members are usually carried out with patches of sheet metal 3-4 mm thick.

Ready-to-Install Spar Patches / Amplifiers

Ready, with reinforced side members, car floor

After all the main deformations have been straightened, the welding work is completed, you can proceed to the final part of the repair of the VAZ 2121 body.
We carefully inspect the body and its elements for dents and chips, which, after preliminary degreasing, are covered with putty. At the moment, the plane of the surface of the car body depends on the quality of the procedure, therefore it is considered one of the most important stages.

• After we have achieved the initial state of the body surface, we begin to grind and polish it. This process is carried out in stages - gradually replacing materials with large abrasive particles to finer processing with fine-grained sandpaper. Your task is to make the surface of the body completely smooth.

• We apply a primer. Primer - leveler eliminates all transitions between the filler and the metal (fills all the pores);

• The last stage of preparation for painting is blowing dust off the car body, degreasing and drying it. By these actions, we ensure the maximum connection of the dye and the car body.
  All that remains is to pick up the paint, paint and polish the car.

After perceiving the information presented in this article, it can no longer be argued that repairing the body of the VAZ 2121 and restoring its individual elements is an idle occupation. This procedure requires certain skills in many branches of plumbing, remarkable patience and ingenuity.
This is due to the fact that, even in spite of all the available power and capabilities of modern technologies, most of the body restoration work is carried out manually. This requires its specificity, which directly affects the cost of the work performed.
Well, since we do everything with our own hands, we “can handle all the mountains”!

Nowadays, very old cars often come to us, but the owners are obviously very fond of them, and if you build a "Crocodile" from Nyvka, then the rotten body of the car is not a hindrance, and therefore we have to work miracles!

In a word, if you nevertheless bought the Niva “Old woman” and are going to drive it for a long time, carefully examine its bottom for corrosion, cracks in the side members and just through holes on the floor. Pay particular attention to cracks in the side members in the area where the pendulum is attached, the steering gear, the engine beam, the upper bracket lane. shock absorber, long jet rods to the bottom of the floor and the attachment of the “House” of the “Ponar” thrust, do not forget to inspect the shock absorber mount, so that later you will not have problems on the road.

Below are some photos of the rotten and destroyed body parts:

The same inspection should be done by lovers of active off-road driving, even on new cars. frequent cases of detecting cracks in the places I have listed

The work related to the strengthening or restoration of the car body is very time consuming and takes a lot of time and effort, and in your case (if you want us to do this work) ... then money! Therefore, I advise you not to forget about this when buying a “rotten” car for a penny. You will still have to invest in its repair.

Strengthening of the side members and the floor is often carried out with a steel sheet up to 3mm, sometimes 4mm with the simultaneous refinement of the fasteners of the suspension elements, then work on the old car is partially justified since you immediately carry out body repairs and rework if necessary ,namely:

-reinforcement of the front spars with 3mm-4mm overlays (especially important when installing stiffer springs, shock absorbers, large wheels, installing power bumpers and winches, since in these cases the load on the front end increases significantly and the native spars cannot withstand)

-reinforcement of the front shock absorber house

-installation of additional shock absorbers front / rear

-transferring the angle of installation of the rear shock absorber as for 214m and W / Niva

-installation of the A-arm

-transferring the RK attachment from the floor to the subframe to the side members.

-reinforcement or transfer of the floor and trunk side members with a square pipe

-cutting wheel arches and mud flaps for large wheels (at the same time, a rotten cloth is cut off, leaving often still quite a bearable wing)

-installation of power footboards under the "Hijack" in the floor spars

what it looks like in life. I suggest looking at the photo below;

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

There is no secret work technique here, so lovers of self-processing metal can independently perform all these works if there is a great desire and a place, but whoever is not interested can entrust such work to us. call, sign up, we will help.

Buying a VAZ body is a great chance to save money on an expensive overhaul or buying a new car. It has long been proven that it is more desirable to immediately dispose of a decrepit body for scrap than to periodically repair it in services where they take quite a lot of money for services of this kind. The new body for the most popular Russian SUV is an opportunity for a radical upgrade. On the other hand, if you understand the specifics of body repair, you can carry out the repair yourself.

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more"

Today, various companies offer owners of a universal all-terrain vehicle to purchase assembled or metal bodies. Accordingly, the price will differ. In addition, a wide selection of colors makes it possible for each owner to choose their favorite option.

For example, an assembled body for a Niva will cost about 300 thousand rubles, but a skeleton in metal will be almost half the price.

The bodies of the Niva are realized in the following colors.

Of course, minor defects that appear during the operation of 2121 are not at all a reason for replacing the body. These defects can be easily eliminated by hand, saving on expensive specialist services.

Scratches, for example, can be easily and simply removed by polishing. Several types of grinding compounds and materials are used that effectively remove the top layer of paintwork, level perfectly frayed body parts.

Note. Complete elimination of scratches in such cases is guaranteed, unless, of course, the outer layer of the paintwork is not thoroughly damaged. And in general, you should not overdo it in the polishing process either, because in this case you can achieve the opposite effect, which will lead to a mandatory painting procedure (already more cost).

The restoration of the geometry is also referred to the repair of the body. The curvature of the skeleton and its components occurs not only due to impact, but also due to temperature changes and obsolescence of the metal.

At the same time, it is highly discouraged to follow the operating instructions thoughtlessly. For example, if the book says that the body will last so many years, you do not need to believe this, since more active operation, unnecessary loads and poor quality of the road surface cause unnecessary strain in individual joints, reducing the service life of the car.

Note. Diagnostics and restoration of the geometry of the car frame is the main and mandatory phase in the course of a full-fledged repair.

It is recommended to restore geometry by stretching or compressing the metal frame only in specialized car services equipped with advanced equipment (computer systems), machine tools, and so on. Unfortunately, it will not be possible to carry out competent editing by independent forces.

On the other hand, if, after diagnostics, it was possible to find out that only some of the body elements were deformed, then by tapping and squeezing everything out can be quite effectively eliminated. And in this case, you can carry out the work in two ways: without painting or with it.

Let's consider both options in more detail:

• The first repair option is based on the properties of the steel. For example, each element that has elasticity tends to straighten to its original position. This characteristic feature can be put to good use if it is competently, using special tools and technologies, to squeeze out a dent and polish.

Note. Unfortunately, this repair method is available only to a select few - people with extensive experience who have a set of special tools.

• The second way is less specific. In this case, it will be enough to evenly tap the part with a hammer from the wrong side, applying a soft stop from the return line.

Note. Tapping is a special technique that needs to be learned. Do not use strong blows, as the steel can flatten.

Another option for repairing the body surface of 2121 involves cutting out the deformed surface. This is done in cases where it is not possible to straighten the element using the above methods. As a result, the body element from 2121 is cut out, the patch is welded.

Finally, if this is not possible, you can take advantage of the replacement of a specific body element as a whole. For example, it can be a fender, bumper, front body panel, and so on.

To protect themselves from problems, a caring driver uses preventive measures. These include, in addition to antigrav treatment and other procedures, enhancement.

All operations related to hardening and restoration of the car body are very difficult, take a lot of time and effort, but give an excellent result.

In the first place, when it comes to modernizing the body, the side members are reinforced immediately. It is often carried out using steel sheets up to 3-4 mm thick. At the same time, the suspension fasteners are strengthened.

Immediately, we note that the strengthening of the side members in front is more relevant than ever if more rigid shock absorbers, springs and larger wheels are installed on the Niva. It is also recommended to do this after installing power bumpers and winches.

Here's what to do:

• First, you need to provide access to the spar. To do this, the car is driven onto an overpass or lift, the wheel is dismantled.
• Next, the caliper is removed, the retainer is unscrewed from the top of the support.
• A knot is knocked out under the lever with a blow of a hammer or technique.
• The shock absorbers (top and bottom) are loosened.
• The brake cylinder is hung on the hoses.
• The upper arm is removable, as well as the cup and upper bumper.
• The gearbox and the steering wheel swingarm are released.

This provides access to the spar:

• Next, the condition of the place for the shock absorbers is checked. If the part is not rusted, then it should be removed.

Note. To dismantle the "house" without any problems, you should drill the welded points. The drill is first filled with a 5-numbered drill, marks are made. Then the weld spots are finally drilled with a 10-hole drill. And one more thing: you can see all the welded points only after a good cleaning of the metal.

• The "house" is removed, and then the entire surface of the spar is cleaned again for the purpose of diagnostics for possible minor defects.
• Again, a thorough cleaning, because it is the basis of everything.

It's time to make the overlay:

• A piece is cut out according to a pattern from cardboard. Everything is accurately marked on paper, including the locations of the bolts and retainers.
• After the layout is ready, you need to put a sheet of 3 mm iron on it and cut it out with a grinder.

Note. It is very important to act according to the rule: measure seven times. In addition, the pad must fit snugly against the side member.

• The necessary holes are drilled on the part and the side member.
• The pad fits on the bolts and is well fixed.
• Then the part is semiautomatically welded around the entire perimeter.
• A "house" is put in place and is also welded.

At the final stage of work, it is imperative to cover all working surfaces with anticorrosive. In this case, mastic is the best suited, which dries up in one day.

Below is a list of the most popular measures to strengthen the Niva body and suspension:

• Welding of a special type of subframe for the transfer case. This allows you to eliminate misalignment of the box and transfer case, to save the body from vibrations, which will have a very positive effect on the off-road characteristics of 2121.

Note. In simple terms, welding of a subframe is the transfer of fixation of the transfer case from the bottom of the body to the side members (already reinforced). Thus, the distributor receives reliable support and natural protection, including from stones.

• Modification or complete replacement of the front suspension beam. A beam is installed with modernized arm bushings at the bottom, effectively blocking the bending of the axes.

Strengthening the side members by welding with metal strips, preferably 4 mm thick.

• Installation of modernized ball joints and rigid springs (it is possible from the Volga, but cut by 1.5 turns). This gives a lot of benefits when you consider the heavy Nivovsky front end. Thus, the entire harness is well protected for a long time.
• Installation of spacers to increase the suspension travel (spacers 20 mm).
• Installation of new GZM shock absorbers Monroe 4x4 Adventure. In this case, it is recommended to reinforce the fixing zones of the dampers without fail using welding.

• Installation of springs in the rear of the body from the Signal. They are stiffer and have rubber spacers, which effectively affects the work.
• Strengthening the linkage "traction + body" (the standard one looks much weaker).
• Replacing the standard grenade with SHRUS 2121, which is less prone to vibrations.
• Installation of reinforced thresholds. They run along the entire perimeter of the side of the vehicle using the mandatory reinforcement moldings. The sills must be fixed to the side members.
• Installation of a set of reinforced jet rods.

Thus, the owner of the Niva must decide for himself which type of event is more suitable for the car. If the body 2121 is in order, then it will not hurt to carry out reinforcement in order to prevent it. This process is also relevant in the process of repairing an automobile skeleton.

On the contrary, if the body has already become completely unusable, looks decrepit and cannot be restored, it will be easier to replace it. True, today numerous legal delays turn a cardinal replacement into a very difficult and dreary business. But, body elements can always be replaced.

The body on 2121 is the most expensive part of the car. Remember this, try to care for him regularly. Read useful recommendations from our experts, get competent information.

Forget about fines from cameras! An absolutely legal novelty - NANOFLENKA, which hides your numbers from IR cameras (which are in all cities). Read more about this at the link.

• Absolutely legal (Article 12.2.4).
• Hides from photo and video recording.
• Installs independently in 2 minutes.
• Not visible to the human eye, does not deteriorate due to the weather.
• 2 year warranty,

Message fast »30 Mar 2006 03:12

For many it is no longer a secret that for a whole year I have been restoring a VAZ-21213 "NIVA" car, which came to me in an extremely "killed" state! This car, produced in 1995, during its existence, has seen a lot ... Despite the rather good appearance - the car, lately, practically did not go, because there were serious engine problems. The fact is that once, in one of the car services, an engine was bored to her. But they did it in a "slapdash" manner.As a result, after several thousand kilometers traveled, the engine suddenly and very noticeably lost traction ... In addition, the not very good build quality of the car at the factory affected. But it was the intervention of some "specialists" from the car service over the past couple of years that became a decisive moment on the way to the end of life for this car.

In this thread, I would like to briefly talk about the restoration work done with this machine at the moment.
I want to note right away that I do not pursue the goal of making this car a "SUPER-SUV". However, after a preliminary assessment, even at the beginning of work, it was clear that simple repairs did not suit her in any way ... The fact is that she was no longer on the move, and the repair would have cost so much that one could just buy a newer supported Niva (albeit in not very good condition, but she would have gone). It was decided not only to restore some parts, but also to make a lot of changes, including in the design of the car. The goal is to create a good, RELIABLE, durable and, most importantly, QUALITY vehicle for going out into nature (fishing, hunting and just walking ...)

Previously revealed a bunch of rust and a gift in the bottom and side members

Everything has been brushed to bare metal, rotten areas have been carved out and everything has been treated with a rust converter

Processed with rust converter

After degreasing everything and covered with a primer

I welded one patch and prepared a place for the second. I also prepared a sheet of metal for new patches (removed rusty deposits from it and primed).
Well, in the end, I broke my favorite drill (((

Drilled holes for a new patch and broke the drill

Cleaned metal from rusty deposits

Primed on both sides

Welded almost all the holes in the floor

Then I welded the floor and threshold connector and primed everything

Welded on the floor and threshold connector

We got our hands to the amplifier between the spar and the threshold, tk. the old one was all cut, but in the store there is, but made of foil, then I decided to make it myself

I figured it out in place - it seems more or less suitable

Well, and then this amplifier, the rear trailing rod attachment platform and the rear traction house took home to be covered with a primer

I welded a homemade amplifier between the threshold and the spar

I welded on the attachment area of ​​the long jet thrust, covered everything with a primer and covered the seams with a joint sealant

Jet thrust attachment area

I missed the bottom with a joint sealant

Joint Sealants Box

It remains to weld one hole in the bottom and two in the spar - I'll do it tomorrow.
Well, after all, cover the bottom with mastic.

Yesterday I completely finished welding the underbody and floor spars.
I also welded on the last detail - the front mudguard mount.
I took the old mount, cleaned it up and treated it with a rust converter twice, then welded it and covered it with soil

Mounting the mudguard, and below the part from which I tore it off

Well, I processed all the cracks and seams with a joint sealant

Fastening the Splash Guard in Place - Front Wheel Side View

Fastening the Splash Guard in Place - Rear Wheel Side View

Processed with joint sealant 1

I worked the entire bottom with a joint sealant

At the same time, I worked with a sealant and a weld on the rear arch

This completes the welding work, it remains to process the bottom with mastic - it has already been purchased

I decided to tidy up the appearance of my car.

This is what the butt looked like before the repair
First I wanted to give it to the service

International Niva Club

Message Car mechanic »12 Aug 2012, 23:42

Message Pavloff »13 Aug 2012, 01:04

Message wowchik »13 Aug 2012, 01:17

Message Sharp-eyed falcon »13 Aug 2012, 09:21

Message Car mechanic »13 Aug 2012, 18:00

Message TrampAS »15 Aug 2012, 22:16

It's time for a major overhaul of my car. or rather, this time is long gone and was missed by the former owner.
I will change both the right and left sides. judging by the inner seams, the rear part under the door has already been changed. Incidentally, how much is the right and left wing. we are asked for 120 and 150 forever green. it is expensive?

mnu does not have a semiautomatic device.what electrode can be used for welding?

Message Desna »15 Aug 2012, 22:35

Message RECARO »12 Sep 2012, 10:28

tramp, can cut out all the rot and roll in the normal wheels?

the transverse boxes are gone, which are under your feet and raise the floor. what hardware to buy? Should I buy these factory spars or shove the profile there? the joint of the mudguard and the platform under the battery is still rotten - how and with what iron to boil it correctly?

Message Igoryok »06 Oct 2012, 20:20

Message Car mechanic 06 Oct 2012, 20:57

Message Pavloff »07 Oct 2012, 01:24

Car mechanic
Probably you need to ask a question here:

Message u487vs »27 Oct 2012, 13:37

Message Igoryok Oct 28, 2012 12:42 am

Message »Oct 29, 2012 11:43 pm

During the preparatory work for the installation of the subframe, I discovered foci of corrosion at the attachment points of the RKK and the gearbox. It was decided to cut holes in the floor panel in order to weld it with appropriate sheets of metal in the future.

From the salon, the entire floor was spilled with rubber-bitumen mastic with a layer of about 5 mm, which had to be removed. After removing the mastic, the floor was pierced in some places with a screwdriver.

Making a bunch of latoks is not an option. Now I'm thinking of replacing the entire front floor panel.
Who has experience with floor replacement? Share how, what and what. Preferably with a photo.

Message u487vs "Oct 29, 2012 12:42 pm

the spar at the bottom on the bend (below the stub bracket) is half alive, rotten, but not burst, later I will take a photo. under the cup of the bump stop of the front suspension - the whole. cracks at the junction of the wing and strut - in the 3rd photo.

Added after 11 hours 29 minutes 20 seconds:
spar at the bottom of the bend (below the stub bracket) sfotkal. In fact, everything is bad. Only one wall remained of the spar. Tell me how to weld everything competently and the estimated cost, since he is not a welder himself.

I think it might be cheaper to buy a welding machine and learn how to cook it yourself)))

Reg .: 26.11.2013
Topics / Posts: 1/1
Location: M.O. Pushkino
Age: 31
Auto: niva 21213 2000

Reg .: 26.04.2013
Posts: 28
Location: Russia, Vologda
Age: 31
Auto: VAZ-2121 1987 onwards

Reg .: 24.01.2010
Posts: 65
Location: Donskoy
Age: 45
Auto: VAZ21214 & 2003

Reg .: 26.06.2013
Posts: 28
Location: Lipetsk RUSSIA
Age: 33
Auto: vaz 2121 year of release 1985

Added after 4 minutes 3 seconds:

Registration: 30.05.2011
Posts: 138
Location: Moscow, SZAO
Age: 56
Auto: 2131, 2003

Niva 2003 middle-aged diseases:
thresholds, roof-pillar joint, doors, glass frame, rear door.

I wrote about the repair of thresholds in this thread on page 22.
I will share how I repaired the doors.

Added after 23 minutes:

This is what happened to the doors. The picture is about the same everywhere. Bought to replace 3 firecrackers (lining) on ​​the door. I did not find it on the back right.
I changed the lining on two doors completely. on the third I did not, tk. crackers suffer from quality (size); it is difficult to fit the entire door after replacement. I cut off the bottom of the third cracker and replaced only the lower part, welding it to the old pad. I cut the old overlay along the border of good metal. The fourth door (left rear) cut off all the rot, cut out the rest, bent, adjusted everything manually. And so the whole winter of 2013-14 passed. Photo report below. The most difficult thing is that in addition to the lining, the inner frame of the door turns into dust, there, too, it was necessary to cut and bend everything by hand.
First, we restore the inner frame of the door, Adjust the size to the original cover that has not been removed