Repairing the engine of any car is an extremely responsible and serious operation that requires a qualified approach. Along with this, with a great desire and appropriate knowledge, it is quite possible to cope with the conduct of the event in question on your own.
First of all, prepare the site for further unfolding of all elements. There should be enough space so that you can conveniently arrange the parts in order - this will make reassembling the motor much faster and easier. If there is not enough space, label the items in any other suitable way. Mark and remove wires in the same way.
Measure the clean block and crankshaft. Boring may be necessary. If you do not have the appropriate skills, it is better to take the items to the factory or to a specialized workshop - there they will check everything and waste it to the conscience. At the same time, you can give the flywheel and the clutch basket to the specialists. In the workshop, the flywheel will be checked for runout and, if necessary, will be trimmed at the place where the clutch disc fits, after which it will be balanced in combination with the basket and the crankshaft. For our beloved GAS, this service is very useful and necessary.
so that blind threaded holes are completely free of antifreeze, oil and various contaminants.
Assemble all the elements under the hood of the car, observing the reverse order of disassembly. butter ... Don't forget about the coolant. Make sure there are no leaks of any kind. Free the relay from the block, crank the engine with a starter - this way you fill the oil system. In the process of performing this stage, be guided by the readings of the pressure sensor.
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In general, I would like to know if it is possible to change saddles and guides in a garage environment? there is a video from Travnikov, where he changes the guides with a puller (by the way, your opinion), but what about the saddles? let's say there is a gas burner, is it possible to heat the saddle beds and how best to do it? what tool to fix the saddle (budget up to 5t.)
that is, some questions, I am waiting for answers from people who are professionally involved in this.
dvor , with such a budget, hardly anyone will tell you anything. I once took a set of cutters, about 5 years ago, for 17 rupees. I ordered mandrels for planting saddles at the factory.
can saddle beds be heated and how best to do it?
and if the bed is heated with a burner and the saddle is installed, and how to remove the old one? How do the bushings change, can they be pressed in?
cools down to room temperature
there are a lot of videos on youtube, watch, consider the possibilities, do
what is cooling?
and if the bed is heated with a burner and the saddle is installed, and how to remove the old one?
How do the bushings change, can they be pressed in?
how to remove without a router? would be a shop, would not ask such stupid questions in your opinion.
how to remove without a router? would be a shop, would not ask such stupid questions in your opinion.
I have a milling cutter and a puller. Try to dig in the internet. Just not with a chisel, as it is advised, you will break the landing ones.
I have a router and a puller.
well, you are more detailed. more details, you can with a photo.
I would like to hear Nizhniy Tagil and Berdsk.
dvor , there is no photo. I rarely take photographs. Practically never. It happens BEFORE and AFTER, but the process itself is not.
this is not a one-time procedure if you are trying to save money.
if you really want to do this, then
I don't want to do this, I want to try it for myself. somehow it was necessary to digest 2705 and the price was announced from 12 tons. Work. I bought a semiautomatic device, a cylinder, etc. for 15. in the end, the car was digested and the welding remained. so the repair of the cylinder head with us (and all of them) is 15-20 tons.This money can be spent on tools (cutters, pullers, etc.)
at the bottom of the page are prices for the set.
I don't want to do this, I want to try it for myself. somehow it was necessary to digest 2705 and the price was announced from 12 tons. Work. I bought a semiautomatic device, a cylinder, etc. for 15. in the end, the car was digested and the welding remained. so the repair of the cylinder head with us (and all of them) is 15-20 tons.This money can be spent on tools (cutters, pullers, etc.)
and a ticket to the grandfather) it is easy to spoil the heads, it is expensive to see how they do it, but it will be very expensive to learn. There are a lot of places for a gazelle where you can put your hands on, but there are places that are better to give to the pros.
and where will this set of tools go later. welding is understandable and this is specific.
today the gearbox gave 1.5 rubles for repairs and it's done. although he himself could, but special is better.
Post has been editedGoga: 16 January 2016 - 22:26
and where will this set of tools go later. welding is understandable and this is specific.
today the gearbox gave 1.5 rubles for repairs and it's done. although he himself could, but special is better.
someone collects stamps, and I collect tools.
and a ticket to the grandfather) it is easy to spoil the heads, it is expensive to see how they do it, but it will be very expensive to learn. There are a lot of places for a gazelle where you can put your hands on, but there are places that are better to give to the pros.
there is a head on which you can try without risk
at the bottom of the page are prices for the set.
I'm not professional, for a couple of times.
someone collects stamps, and I collect tools.
there is a head on which you can try without risk
I'm not professional, for a couple of times.
then take the set made in the ussr. very inexpensive and dreary.
Is there someone who will tell you about the case, or saw it again - wrote it?
We remove the hydraulic pushers (see. Replacing the hydraulic pushers).
Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the eight bolts.
... and remove the rear cylinder head cover with gasket.
If the design of the puller does not provide for a valve stop, place a suitable stop under it.
Compress the springs with a desiccant. To make the spring plate easier to come off the crackers, you can strike a light blow with a hammer on the persistent bipod of the drying machine.
We take out two crackers with tweezers and smoothly release the springs.
Remove the top plate and two valve springs.
Remove the slinger cap with a puller.
Unscrew the plugs of the oil channels with a hexagon wrench "8".
Having cleaned the attachment plane of the head, we check the quality of the fit of the head to the block with a curved ruler.
We repair the cylinder head during general engine repairs and when replacing the cylinder head gasket.
It is very important to repair the head after the motor has overheated. During overheating, defects may occur that cannot be visually seen.
Therefore, you need to carefully do all the cylinder head repair operations. The operation of the engine largely depends on this. And this will save you unnecessary work and costs.
We look at the removal of the cylinder head in the article - "Replacing the head gasket ZMZ-406 GAZ-3110".
1. Unscrew the nuts 1 and remove the shield 5 of the phase sensor, the bracket 2 for lifting the engine and the exhaust manifold 6.
Remove the exhaust manifold gaskets.
Unscrew bolt 3 and remove the 4-phase sensor.
Unscrew emergency oil pressure sensors 7 and oil pressure gauge 8.
2. Loosen the clamp 1 and remove the hose from the idle speed regulator connection.
Unscrew nuts 2 and remove reservoir 3 from inlet pipe.
3. Unscrew the nuts 1 and remove the inlet pipe 2 together with the injectors and the fuel line (not shown in the photo).
Remove the inlet pipe gasket.
... and remove the back cover 2 of the block head.
Take out hydraulic tappets 1 for valves. It is more convenient to remove the hydraulic pushers with a magnet or a suction cup
Hydraulic pushers must not be interchanged, therefore, before removal, they must be marked so that they can be installed in their place during assembly.
The hydraulic pushers should be stored in the same position in which they are on the valves so that oil does not leak from them.
If the design of the puller does not provide for a valve stop, place a suitable stop under it.
Compress the springs with a desiccant. To make the spring plate easier to come off the crackers, you can strike a light blow with a hammer on the persistent bipod of the drying machine.
We take out two crackers with tweezers and smoothly release the springs.
Remove the top plate and two valve springs.
Remove the slinger cap with a puller.
Hook up with a screwdriver and remove valve spring support washer 1.
We turn the cylinder head over and take out the valve, marking the place of its installation, so that during the subsequent assembly the valve will fall into its original place.
Similarly, remove and mark the rest of the valves.
Press out the worn valve guides with a mandrel
Unscrew the plugs of the oil channels with a hexagon wrench “8”.
In the spring of 2012, Almaz, from Aznakaevo, approached us with a request to overhaul the jammed ZMZ 406 engine. he jammed. Spare parts (crankshaft, cylinder head and small parts) were also brought from another ZMZ 406 engine, in which the connecting rod broke off and the cylinder block was punctured. Actually, this motor was installed in the client's car (Volga), but after the connecting rod broke, there was no point in doing anything with the block.
Let's start to disassemble the engine that is jammed:
Remove the valve cover. There are a lot of lacquer and sludge deposits inside. We remove the camshafts and yoke. We find a piece of the chain. After removing the crankshaft pulley, we see the oil seal, partially crawled out of its nest - everything around it is filled with oil.
After removing the cylinder head, we observe the cylinders. The crankshaft still won't turn.
Remove the engine pan, unscrew the oil pump and connecting rod covers.The crankshaft wedges only after unscrewing the yokes of the main bearings. We dismantle the pistons with connecting rods from the block. After removing the front cover, we observe a crumbled timing drive - a piece of the tensioner shoe foot, broken dampers. The lid inside is damaged by debris.
The cylinders of the block are worn out, there are no more traces of the hone mesh, there is a depletion in the TDC zone of the piston. In the photo below - the collapsed tensioner shoe - one row of teeth is simply not there. Next, we open the cover of the oil pump drive and dismantle the drive shaft and gear. The teeth on both rollers are worn out. On the market, this pair was estimated at 3,000 rubles, which is very expensive, in the end, in agreement with the owner, they left her to live out her life.
The cylinder block is completely disassembled and prepared for boring:
While the block is being bored to a repair size and honed on a SUNNEN machine, let's move on to repairing the cylinder head of the ZMZ 406. We remove the hydraulic pushers and dry out the valves, then the head is sent to a chemical wash.
The valve seats have already sagged, which is a generic disease of the ZMZ 406 engine, especially when operating on gas. On gas fuel, the seats burn out and the valves gradually sag until the hydraulic compensator can no longer work out the gap and the valve stops closing completely - the compression disappears and the car is sent for repair. Usually, in such cases, the valves are trimmed in the services, but the author prefers to change the saddles.
The guide bushings from the factory put cast-iron "shorties" from the VAZ 2108 - they do not work well on gas and wear out quickly. We install bronze bushings of our own production instead of cast iron bushings - this material is guaranteed to “tolerate” gas fuel without wear in the “valve-sleeve” friction pair. The sleeve has a greater length than the factory one, which further increases its resource. In order not to overlap the channel, the outlet of the sleeve in the channel is made on a cone. 14.04-14.07 mm just fall into the nest. It is impossible to assemble the head in this way, for such cases we have repair bronze bushings with an increased outer diameter 14.10 vs 14.24 mm ... Such bushings will make it possible to produce a guaranteed high-quality overhaul of the head. In this case, the head was in good condition and the use of repair sleeves was not required.
What death is for a foreigner is a find for a Russian. In any repair there are certain standards that many adhere to, but for those who do a lot with their own hands, these standards are not written. It's all about the high cost of meeting these standards. I will show how you can fit the camshaft cushions of the ZMZ 406 engine head from another head. Although, according to the rules of the standards, it is impossible to put the camshaft cushions from one head to another, as they will either clamp the camshaft or the camshaft will dangle in them. This method can be applied to any block head where there are camshaft cushions, for example, in VAZ engines.
So I had to show off a little by adjusting the pillows of the 406 head under the other head 406 of the engine. The owner drove the Gazelle and asked to replace the head of the block, with another, which he bought for disassembly for a penny but without camshaft pillows. But for us this is not a problem, everything can be adjusted, you just need to know how to do it. In the native head of the 406 engine, there was a microcrack due to which gases flowed into the cooling system.
First of all, before installing the head on the engine, you need to check how the camshafts fit in the head. The camshaft can pinch the cushion, or it can be loosened, which will lead to camshaft bumping and knocking.
Lay the camshafts as shown in the photo below into the head, for ease of rotation of the camshaft and checking for tightness or looseness, it is convenient to twist the sprocket bolts.Only camshafts must be installed without valve cups (compensators). Get on the camshaft cushions, try cranking the camshaft. Spinning is already good, then twist the pillows one by one, twist the pillow, check for rotation.
In this way, you can find out which cushion is clamping and which is not, if the cushion jammed the camshaft, loosen it, check the rest. After this procedure, you know which pillow clamps and which does not. It remains to lift the camshaft clamping pad and lower the loosened one. I was lucky, only one pillow was clamped, the very first one and on one side.
Photo. We put the camshafts in the head
In order to release the jammed pillow, you need ordinary paper or metal sheet, there are fewer problems with paper, since it is easy to cut.
Photo. Bolted camshafts to the head with a key inserted to check for rotation.
We loosen the clamping pillow, prepare a paper backing, put it under the pillow. We tighten the pillow and check for tightness, if the camshaft begins to rotate, then everything is fine, but if it clamps again, add another layer of paper. So until the camshaft starts to rotate.
Photo. A sheet of paper prepared for placing under the pillow.
After this procedure, you know that under this pillow you need three sheets of paper backing, and put them when you put the head on the engine, it is easy to cut off the excess paper with a knife.
Photo. A sheet of paper inserted under the camshaft pad.
So, we figured out well with the clamping pillows, now we need to check for looseness. Paper will also help here, but not thicker than a sheet of notebook, cut out a thin strip as shown in the photo below, loosen the pillow, put this strip, twist the pillow. If the camshaft is clamped, the gap is excellent, that is, if it is easy to rotate or the paper is easy to move back and forth, then you will have to lower the pillow to the desired gap.
Photo. Check for looseness of the camshaft using a strip of paper.
It remains to lower the camshaft pad, this can be done with a sharpening stone or spread sandpaper on a flat surface. The photo below shows how to lower the pillow below. In circular motions in different directions, you can grind the pillow against a stone or sandpaper, thereby lowering it. We rubbed the pillow, checked it, and so on until the desired gap.
Photo. We lower the pillow on the grindstone.
After installing the head on the engine, be sure to check the camshafts for rotation, just in case, as shown in the photo below. Also, this procedure for adjusting the camshafts can be done without removing the head from the engine, this need happens if there is a large output in the camshaft pads, the camshafts hang out and knock. Pillows will have to be planted here.
Photo. Engine head 406 supplied with a camshaft rotation check key, padded with paper under the pillow.
After checking, cut off the excess paper with a knife.
As you can see, even from such inconsistencies, you can make a good head so that the camshafts will work like new quietly and pleasantly.
Timing marks on a 406 engine can be set in two ways, the first one is according to the factory instructions, but it is more difficult for it and you can easily make a mistake. Since the labels on the stars need to be positioned along the outer radius of the stars.
My way is simpler, shown in the picture below. Place the marks on the asterisks along the inner radius also opposite each other. When the labels are nearby, you can clearly see the accuracy of their coincidence.
At this moment, along the direction of rotation of the crankshaft, the chain should be tensioned, you can check this way, after installing the chain according to the marks, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise ten degrees. The camshafts are also counterclockwise until the chain is tensioned. Now put the crankshaft back on the mark, check that the sprocket marks match.
Picture. Timing tags 406 engine
What to do, you can cry, but you cannot fix it with tears, you can cut the thread into a larger one, or you can deepen the thread and cut the thread deeper, I like this option more, but you also need to pick up a longer bolt. The bolt can be taken longer and cut to the desired size.
Photo. Deepen the bolt hole.
In the 406 head there is a feature that a hole closer to the center can be drilled through, and at the edges deeper by ten to eleven millimeters, since if you drill deeper, you can damage the oil pressure channel. Or, cut the thread in the outermost holes. Native thread standard M8.
Photo. Head tapping taps.
Assembly 406 ZMZ, head repair. Video.
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The 406 engine replaces the outdated power unit ZMZ 402. This is a gasoline internal combustion engine. The engine of the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant was produced until 2008. At first, the power unit was produced for the purpose of installation on Gazelle 3302 class cars, but later the Gorky plant decided to mount the 406 engine on Volga vehicles.
Structurally simple and easy to maintain, the 406 engine was an excellent power unit. The increased power and reduced fuel consumption allowed the power unit to blend harmoniously into the cars. In addition to the vehicles of the Gorky Automobile Plant, the 406 engine was mounted on the UAZ.
The first generation of the 406 engine had a carburetor injection system, but with the massive arrival of the injector, it was decided to improve the engine and adapt it for distribution injection.
So, let's take a look at the technical characteristics of the 406 engine:
Also, the Volga region produced a forced engine - ZMZ 40620D. On many vehicles, the letter D means that the power unit belongs to the category of diesel engines, but in the case of our factories, the situation is different - this is the designation of power.
Consider the technical characteristics that the ZMZ 40620D engine has:
As you can see, the only difference is the horsepower. The rest of the indicators remain unchanged.
All cars were already equipped with a 5-speed manual transmission. The device of the ZMZ 406 engine is simple. Unlike its predecessor 402, this power unit had two camshafts and 16 valves. The ignition system has also been adapted. The resource of the engine has increased to 250,000 km, instead of 150,000 km.
In addition to the standard motor, there are also a number of modifications. Modified 406 engine and characteristics:
ZMZ 4061.10 - carburetor engine, SZh 8 for 76th gasoline. Used on Gazelles.
ZMZ 4062.10 - injection engine. The main modification is used on the Volga and Gazelles.
ZMZ 4063.10 - carburetor engine, SZh 9.3 for 92nd gasoline. Used on Gazelles.
The service scheme for ZMZ 406 is quite simple. Motor, unpretentious to consumables. The power unit holds 6 liters of engine oil, but only 5-5.5 liters are required for a change. The oil filter is suitable for both the Gazelle and the Volga. The recommended maintenance interval is 15,000 km. But, in order to increase the resource, it is recommended to carry out maintenance for 12,000 km if the vehicle is operated on gasoline, and after 10 thousand km for gas.
The maintenance chart is no different from the 406, and looks something like this:
1000-2500 km or TO-0: oil and oil filter change.
8000-10000 km - TO-1: replacement of oil, oil and air filter, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, fuel fuel.
25,000 km - TO-2: oil change, oil filter.
40,000 km - TO-3: oil change, oil and air filter, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, valve adjustment.
55,000 km - TO-4: changing the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, replacing the timing chain and alternator belt.
70,000 km - TO-5 and subsequent: oil and oil filter change. Every 20,000 km it changes - the fuel and air filter, the valves are adjusted.Every 50,000 km of run - replacement of the timing chain.
Routine maintenance involves replacing the lubricant and filters. Every 65-70 thousand km it is necessary to change the timing repair kit. A chain and a shoe are installed on the ZMZ 4062, as well as a drive and drive sprocket.
Every second maintenance requires checking systems such as the valve train, the state of the powertrain ECM, and the health of the sensors. The valve mechanism is adjusted after 50,000 km, or earlier, if necessary.
Often, by 70,000, hydraulic lifters fail, which need to be changed all together, since it is not known when the working ones will fail. The valve cover gasket is replaced every 40,000 km or when a leak forms from under it.
It is recommended to fill the engine with semi-synthetic oil marked 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40. To change the oil, you need 5.4 liters, which are poured into the power unit. As practice shows, most motorists perform motor maintenance on their own.
It is recommended to repair the Gazelle 3302 (Volga) engine in a car service, but most motorists do this process on their own. The simplicity of the design allows you to carry out all the work related to the restoration of the 406 engine with your own hands.
There were no particular malfunctions or problems due to engine operation. On some vehicle models, it was noticed that injectors quickly failed. This problem can be easily eliminated by replacing all injected elements. The chain of the gas distribution mechanism can last about 200 thousand km, but it happens that it does not take care of even 100 thousand km, as you are lucky.
Overhaul of the engine should be carried out after 250,000 km of run, but with proper operation and maintenance, it may happen that the engine will withstand 300,000 km. But if the driving style of "Alya" is a racer, then the resource of the power unit is significantly reduced.
Another problem is the native factory candles ZMZ 406. The way out of the situation is simple - to replace the candles with those produced by the Brisk company.
The capital of the engine takes place in several stages. The power unit is disassembled and diagnosed. Further, the process of purchasing spare parts takes place. Consider the main positions of the overhaul of the motor.
At this stage, work is being carried out to determine the hardness and thickness of the crankshaft journals, as well as its maintainability. So, if the part can be repaired, then the size of the necks is determined and the product is given for further processing. The same goes for the cylinder block. The liners are measured, and the repair size of the pistons is determined.
Pressing the cylinder head ZMZ 406 is the process of determining the presence of cracks in the housing. All openings on the head are closed, except for the coolant inlet, into which hot water or kerosene is supplied. Next, the specialist looks for leaks and cracks. If not, then the cylinder head is sent for repair, and if there is, then all defects must be welded.
Since the part is made of aluminum, argon welding is used. In garage conditions, motorists use cold welding to seal the holes in the housing of the power unit.
The cylinder block and crankshaft are bored. If the cylinders have already come out of the oversized size, then liners with a standard diameter of 92 mm are installed. Honing is becoming characteristic of a cylinder block - this is one of the processes of boring block cylinders using a special machine. The crankshaft is bored on a special unit, using high revolutions and a stone that polishes the journals.
The cylinder head also lends itself to a bulkhead. So, valves, seats, oil seals and cuffs often change. More than once, specialists have to replace the valve guides.
Today, replacement of the camshaft is quite common.This is due to the fact that the quality of the parts is not high and the camshaft journals wear out quickly. Therefore, when carrying out cylinder head repairs, this detail should be paid special attention to. If necessary, the working surface of the block head is sanded.
Assembly operations are carried out at a special stand. All parts are installed in the same sequence as they were dismantled. So, often the oil and water pump lends itself to replacement, a new set of gaskets is installed.
Thus, the resource of the motor is restored by 80%. If we count this in kilometer terms, then the power unit will be able to serve 180-200 thousand kilometers, with normal maintenance.
Some motorists are finalizing the ZMZ 406, that is, they are tuning it. There are two ways to upgrade. The first is mechanical revision, the second is software. In the second case, the electronic engine control unit is flashed to reduce consumption or increase power characteristics. In the first case, mechanical action is required to add power.
The car enthusiast will have to replace the camshafts, install T-valves, bore the combustion chamber, mount lightweight pistons, connecting rods and a crankshaft. Also, a complete adaptation of the cylinder head will be required. The power output will be about 200 horsepower, and the weight of the motor will decrease by 16 kg.
To mount the compressor, you will have to install a reinforced crankshaft and forged pistons. Garrett 28 turbine, manifold for it, piping, intercooler, 630cc injectors, 76mm exhaust, MAP + DTV, setting in January. Turbocharging the ZMZ 406 will allow the power unit to be fired up to an unrealistic 300-400 horsepower.
In this case, it is recommended for everyone to install a drain for cooling the motor. This will help to normalize the operating temperature of the turbo engine. The Brembo E317 kit, which is designed for installation on Russian Volga cars, is perfect.
Repair and tuning of the ZMZ 406 engine can be done by hand. The only nuance is boring and honing, which require special equipment. The motor itself has high technical characteristics and the required power, therefore it is suitable for installation both on a Gazelle and on Volga class light vehicles.
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So at 08 I rubbed the camshaft pastel covers into a class.
Will the ellipse in R.V.'s beds be affected? on the oil pressure in the head
Very informative, Thank you very much!
hello Sergey! thanks for the useful information you share on your channel! please tell me how many times you can grind the engine head. that is, how to determine that it is worn out so much that it is no longer possible to grind it!
hello Sergey. the ZMZ-406 and 405 engine is no different, and when will it be continued? Another question is the installation of the chain on the Moskvich 412 engine is installed according to the second mark on the crankshaft pulley.
and how to properly pull the chain on the Mosvich
hello, see the shafts, can I do something with them. I took a picture
Hello! Please tell me, when will the video on assembling the ZMZ 406 engine be continued?
I altered these yoke on the studs so that the thread in the head does not touch
There will be no continuation, the cylinder head was thrown into the trash. Dislike.
Travnikov Evgeny Alexandrovich , tells his viewers about the 406 engine repair. He divides the 406 engine repair video into several steps.
Stage 1 - Troubleshooting and disassembly. In this part, the author introduces us to the structure of the 406 engine, its components, the corresponding defects (leakage from the phase sensor, moisture in the front oil seal). This repair of the ZMZ 406 engine, the video of which was presented by E.A. Travnikov, could have happened earlier, but thanks to good car oil, its condition is simply excellent, you can’t say that this engine clocked more than 300 thousand km. The author also gives a vivid example of dismantling the engine, while talking about all the details, their specifics and the reasons for the breakdown.After removing the head, it turned out that the whole problem was in the gasket, or rather, in the fact that it was frayed and passed oil.
Eugene also tells his viewers about the most important structural element - about the drive of the secondary shaft, namely about its fastening features. Shows how the indicator can be used to determine the knocks in the crankshaft.
Stage 2 - Assembly of the block. On this cycle, the author talks about the fact that after some turning work, to increase the compression ratio, 2 mm were removed from the block surface, after which the surface was sanded. Shows how the crankshaft is installed, the cover with the oil seal is installed, how the connecting rods are checked for weight, how the connecting rods are weighed over the upper head, how the pistons are balanced.
Stage 3 - Cylinder head. The video shows us that an increase in the compression ratio of the piston protrudes 2 mm from the block (so that the piston does not meet with the head, a small groove is made). The author also showed how the gasket is installed and demonstrated the installation of the guides.
In general, this set of video tutorials helps a lot in automotive practice, because thanks to them we can independently find out the causes of engine breakdowns, and more importantly, eliminate them on our own.
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Video (click to play).
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