DIY ski boot repair

In detail: DIY ski boots repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In the midst of the ski season, ski boots were brought up - rivets fell out in the place of the protruding toe from the heavy load, and the sole began to peel off. It made no sense to glue the sole on superglue without additional fastening, and in the workshop there was no way to put new rivets. Then the idea came up to use bolts with washers and a nut instead of rivets.

The article will be useful to those who find themselves in a similar situation. Making such a repair of ski boots with your own hands is not difficult at all.

3x40mm flat head bolt with nut and two washers

PVC linen cord cut, length 200-250 mm

Hacksaw blade or wire cutters

Adhesive for bonding leather and rubber

Step 1... We will prepare the necessary tools and materials.

Step 2... Remove the remaining parts of the rivets and clean up the surfaces to be glued.

Step 3... Pull a piece of linen cord through the riveted holes and remove its end from the boot.

Step 4... Insert a bolt with a washer on it into the hole in the cord.

Step 5... We pull the cord with a bolt through the hole. In the same way, insert the second bolt into the hole.

Step 6... We put on washers on the protruding parts of the bolts, tighten the nuts, apply glue to the cleaned surfaces and tighten the nuts.

Step 7... Having stepped back from the nut by 3-4 mm, we cut off the protruding parts of the bolts. To prevent the nuts from loosening, the bolts must be riveted.

Hopefully, after the repair, the ski boots will last for more than one season.

For safe skiing on the ski slopes, it is important to have reliable, high-quality equipment. Boots are an important part of the equipment, from which not only comfort, but also the health of an athlete is curled. During active skiing, especially in short track style, virtuoso turns, sports shoes quickly break.

Video (click to play).

Repairing ski boots is costly, and you need to find a good craftsman. However, some problems can be solved by yourself.

This is a common problem for ski enthusiasts. It often occurs during the high season due to heavy workload. The sole can come off completely or only the toe.

You can repair it yourself with small screws, glue and nuts. First, we connect the back. If you have fasteners without holes, then make several holes at the junction with the shoes. With the cap down, insert the nuts into them. Roll them inside the boot. The nose is repaired in the same way.

You can strengthen the connection with shoe glue. Pre-strip and degrease the sole of the sole. Bonding is an additional procedure for fastening with nuts.

Careless use or sudden jerking may damage the fastener. Often, it is produced in the form of a Velcro. In this case, to repair ski boots with your own hands, you will need sewing accessories - a strong thread, a thick needle and thick fabric.

With a complete break into 2 parts, you need to connect them with a piece of prepared fabric. If the clasp comes off the ring, then we attach it also, using the fabric. If the special ring has been lost, you can use the wire. However, this is a temporary option as it will break quickly.

In professional stores, you can find replacement parts to help you restore your boot.

This plastic element is extremely important and is found in all expensive ski shoes. This allows you to securely fix the foot in the heel area, preventing injury.

But his problem is that he often leans back from the boot itself. To repair, buy 2 small diameter bolts.Drill holes in the retainer. Using the bolts, connect the bar to the boot, tighten them from the inside.

When a pin breaks, skiers face three problems:

The plastic that holds the pin loosens or wears out and it starts to dangle.
Completely detaches from the attachment point.
The pin was bent or dented while rolling.

The first 2 difficulties can be solved with epoxy glue, tape and a file. First, using sandpaper (it is better to take a fine one), carefully clean the place that will glue. Push the pin in place, secure it with tape, and fill it with glue. Let it dry for a day, remove excess glue with a file. You will have to try to remove the tape.

The curvature of the pin can be repaired if the fastening strength is not severely affected. To do this, you need to make a mandrel by tapping on both sides with a hammer.

Repair of snowboard boots is carried out in the same way as for ski boots. However, snowboarders can face such problems: rust on the fittings, worn seams, loose lacing. If there are problems with the fastening, a part replacement is needed. Trying to fix it on your own will not restore its previous functions, and skating can become dangerous.

Careful operation, timely cleaning and proper storage in the off-season will help to avoid many problems with ski equipment.

Self-care of alpine skis - lubrication, sharpening, repairs - seems to be difficult for ordinary skiers. We are intimidated by the many different tools, noisy machines and the spray of sparks that we see in ski service centers.

Reichmann machine - repair and maintenance of alpine skis

However, putting your skis in order with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem when you look at this chilling sight. This requires a little knowledge, as well as a set of tools and materials. And later the necessary skills will appear.

Why self-lubricate, sharpen and repair skis? And in order not to run to the service center because of every little thing, wasting precious time and money. And the service center can be very far away, especially if you are riding off-piste.

Yes, we ourselves can apply the required lubricant in accordance with the weather, repair the "holes" in the sliding surface and perform general pre-season maintenance.

Again, who doesn't like tinkering with their skis, especially at the start of the season! We cherish and cherish them as the things most dear to our hearts.

Today the bathyscaphe descends to the depths where materials and tools for ski care are hidden from our eyes. Can you feel the light scent of hot paraffin wax on the cool sea breeze? If not, buy drops, you have a clear runny nose. Sit back and breathe in all the salt of our vast ski ocean!

In any case - to the places! The captain is already biting the wheel impatiently.

So, in the article we will talk about the simplest manipulations with skis. More complex repairs - broken mounts, torn edges - are best done in special workshops, which, as a rule, exist at every decent ski and boarder rental.

They're on their way anyway, right? Of course they do, but they can go better, and much better. Everything is relative.

Two of the most important factors that help to get more pleasure from skiing are sharp edges and an excellent sliding bottom surface of the skis (popularly - "slide", "slide"). And the drier the sliding surface, the more scratches on it and the dumber the edges - the worse for us.

Turning on a run-down ski requires a lot more effort than steering a well-sharpened and oiled ski. If you don’t believe it, you don’t need to, but the time will come - you will understand what we talked about. Then appreciate the amazing glide and grip of a well-groomed ski!

There are two options for caring for your skis: you either regularly take them to a service workshop and pay for MOT (maintenance), or spend a one-time amount of money on ointments and tools, and then save your hard earned money and tidy up your skis yourself.

The first option is simple and dull. The second is cognitive and makes life more interesting, and will be discussed below.

Well, here we come to the most important thing - the stages of servicing your skis, which consists of 5 steps:

Preparation and cleaning.
Repair of the sliding surface.
Edge sharpening.
Cleaning and lubricating the sliding surface.
Polishing the sliding surface.

If the skis have not been put in order for a long time or have been used intensively, it may be necessary to grind the sliding surface on the machine (for this you still need to go to the workshop). And only then start working on them yourself. Find a table at home, an office one will do, because signing contracts is not more important than skiing in the mountains, right?

To fix the skis on a household table, you will need the following fasteners:

Mount skis on a household table

For example, a set of "Toko" vices in the "Kant" store costs about 17,000 rubles.

Ideally, you need a special workbench with a vice, but you will get it later when you realize all the joy of personal ski care. Now raise your ski feet, secure them with an elastic band (as in the picture above) and wipe the skis to keep them clean and dry.

Wipe a heavily soiled surface with a special cloth, for example, fiberlene - it does not leave lint interfering with the work.

Special Fiberlene lint-free fabric

The easiest way to repair scratches on the slide is to use P-Tex candles. If you do this regularly, and there are several pairs of skis in the family, it is better to purchase a special thermal gun (although it is not easy to find one in Russia).

Thermo gun for repairing skis and snowboards

If from time to time, burying deep scratches with molten plastic will do.

Here is the sequence of work:

Clean the place of work with a cleaner;

Cut off the exfoliated plastic around the "wound" with a sharp knife;

Dip it with a melted P-Tex candle;

Let cool to room temperature;

Carefully cut off excess plastic until a surface is at the same level;

Sand the repaired area with fine sanding paper.

Important: Any repairs to the sliding surface can only be started after the skis / snowboard is well dried.Always use protective gloves when sharpening edges to avoid cutting yourself. Even if you see a bare hand in the picture below, this is just a promotional photo.Alpine skiing edges sharpeningClamp the skis in a vise as shown in the figure. Using a special file (file) and a guide angle with a clamp or a special "canto cutter" sharpen the edges with smooth movements along the entire length of the ski.Use short, overlapping file passes, gradually lengthening them. Use a wire brush to remove any chips from the file after every few strokes.Repeat this on both edges. The sharpening direction does not matter. Don't press too hard, let the sharp file do its job.For greater clarity, I found an informative video on edge sharpening at home on the Internet. For those interested, see (English).Rotate the ski in a vise so that the sliding surface is facing up. Scrub off old wax and dirt with a plastic scraper. For best results, use "hot scraping": warm up the paraffin with an iron and scrape the skis with a plastic scrubber (in a pinch, you can use a CD box) while the paraffin is still warm.If the paraffin is heavily soiled, apply a layer of “base” paraffin using an iron, and then scrub it off - this way you can better clean the slipper.Scrape off old paraffin wax from your skisYou can lubricate skis with an iron or using a ready-made lubricant that is applied to cold skis. Either method prevents the sliding surface from drying out, reduces friction and helps the projectile glide better.Oiled skis are easier to control. Hot wax and iron provide better lubrication as the wax penetrates deeper into the pores of the sliding surface material and lasts longer.Applying paraffin to a sliding surface using an ironYou can also use a ready-made lubricant - it is easy to use, but does not protect the slide for so long and provides good sliding. This option is ideal for quick field lubrication when hot method is not available.Both types of lubrication - both "iron-on" and "cold" - are available in two types: for any snow temperature (universal ointment) and for specific temperature conditions (special lubricants).Universal options will work effectively in most cases, but for a narrow temperature range it is better to use special lubricants and paraffins, they are more effective than universal ones. The result is that the skis will glide faster, and we waste less energy.The more often the skis are hot treated, the better the sliding surface will absorb grease. So ideally you should turn on the iron after every ride. It's no coincidence that athletes lubricate their skis before every workout, let alone a competition.Well, not for athletes, it is better to use the hot method before going to the mountains, and after each ride, lubricate with a universal lubricant designed for cold application.After you've finished treating your skis, let them cool to room temperature.Using a sharp plastic scraper, remove any excess wax. What remains in the pores of the material is enough for excellent ski glide.Then use a horsehair or nylon brush to polish the skid well with firm pressure from toe to heel. Image - DIY ski boot repair

Toko Repair Spark Plugs

So now we know how to care for our skis (and boards) - how to sharpen the edges, repair and lubricate the sliding surface. At the end, here is a list of what you need to work from home:

Repair plastic P-Tex.
Fibertex and remover for old grease.
Special file and angle with clip or edge cutter.
Plastic scraper (scraper).
Stiff horsehair or nylon brush.
Sanding paper.
Universal paraffin wax.

Manufacturers of materials and tools for ski care:

All manufacturers are decent, besides, the sites of all three are translated into Russian. By clicking on the links, you will find a lot of useful information: what other tools are there, where you can buy them, how much they cost.

By the way, you will probably find an old iron with a temperature regulator, a lighter and a knife on the farm, and buy a file cleaning brush and work gloves wherever it is convenient.

Once again I enjoyed the fact that I wrote this work. Hope you find it helpful. Leave comments, requests and complaints, I will be happy to answer any question. Thanks to my friends who filled the gaps in my experience and knowledge.

Floating up ... no, one second ...

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They allow the use of large external boots for different foot shapes.
They allow you to simplify the fitting-fitting of boots.
They allow you to sell the consumer some illusion of self-adjustment.

They allow you to take shoes of the usual (plus allowance) size and more or less correctly fit them on your feet.
They solve the problem of fixing specifically narrow feet and legs.
They allow freestyle riders to safely land spinning jumps, minimizing the risk of ankle injuries.
In part, they solve the problem of freezing feet.

The leg is suspended in a foam core.
The accuracy of the force transfer to the skis is reduced.
The desired improvement in thermal insulation and cushioning for owners of voluminous legs is not always achievable.

SPORT MARATHON: THE LARGEST TOURIST AND SKI SHOP IN MOSCOW. SAIKINA 4

You might think that Sport-Marathon is just another sports and tourist store in Moscow, and you would be wrong. We do sell clothing and equipment for alpine skiing and snowboarding, as well as tents, sleeping bags, backpacks and other products for outdoor activities. But this is where our similarities to other stores end. We are different!

Working in the market of top-end equipment for more than ten years, the managers of our company have accumulated a huge store of knowledge in order to try to make the really best ski and outdoor store in Moscow! And believe me, these are not empty words. Personal passion for tourism and skiing, hundreds of hours at exhibitions and seminars and many years of cooperation with the best distribution companies allow us to present a truly outstanding range.

In addition to an excellent assortment, we have tried to make our store not only a pleasant and convenient place for shopping, but a real Club and a favorite meeting place for all lovers of tourism, skiing and outdoor activities in general. Therefore, we made a new renovation, ordered special, individual trade equipment, suffered for a long time, choosing a convenient and pleasant light, and even developed what we think is the best loyalty system for the most active customers. We even found a cafeteria spot where you can grab a bite to eat during a tiring but enjoyable shopping!

Repair of ski boots is done in almost any ski service. I will take the liberty for Moscow to recommend Vitaly from the "Mountain Skiing" store at the corner of Lyublinskaya and Saratovskaya streets (Lyublinskaya st., 7 / 2k1), Tekstilshchiki metro station,

What breaks / wears out and is repaired:

Clips - if you did not notice how they unbuttoned, they break easily, and this is the most frequent breakdown. They are simply replaced with a suitable one.

Boot soles - when walking on the asphalt, the heel breaks, after a while the boot just starts to spontaneously fall out of the mounts. In this case, a heel is glued to the sole, which levels the sole. In the same way, adjust the camber of boots for skiers with X and O shaped feet - this, by the way, is required by the majority!
The inner boot (aka felt boot) - changes entirely and is formed under your feet. For the most reliable, wear-resistant and controllable option, I recommend Intuition inner boots, you can do it here >>

I have a problem with ski boots - the outer layer on one of the boots is tearing at the seam, I suppose it does not withstand the fullness of the instep. More details can be found at pictures of my ski boot.Do you think it can be sewn up or repaired?If so, who is doing this in Yaroslavl? Contacts?Or take it for granted and budget for new shoes?Thanks in advance for any advice. Image - DIY ski boot repair

Saturday clean-up on the ski track in the village. Nor. - October 20, 2018 (Saturday) at 09.00, all the same are invited.
Draft calendar plan of VF Polyathlo. - Sports competition Sports discipline Age.
Sergey Vladimirtsev passed away - On October 11, 2018, at the age of 55, our friend I.
We invite you to the duathlon in Pereslavl - Dear sportsmen, lovers of cyclic sports! ...
The track in the Mikhailovsky forest. New pet. - Friends, hello everyone! You, of course, know about training.

Vladimir, at first glance, your problem with ski boot repair is solvable. Or, unpick the place of the gap, glue the material from the inside and sew the torn place with a “zigzag”. Then sew in place. Unless, of course, the material has already become less durable from old age! You just need to find a good shoemaker.

I found a woman shoemaker that year. Does it accurately and efficiently. Located in the shopping center "Compass", ground floor (basement) - Yaroslavl, Dzerzhinsky district, Severny residential area, 10th microdistrict, Arkhangelsky proezd, 1B.

So much for Rossignol! For elite boots, one material is used, and for others it is cheaper, which falls apart after a while.

According to the information received, there is also a shoemaker next to the YaMZ entrance, where skiers repaired their ski boots. They say that the renovation was perfect.

Alexey, Thank you very much for the options!
“Motorny” would have been closer for me, now I rarely visit Bragino.
I’ll go, for the beginning to the central checkpoint on Oktyabrya Avenue, I’ll look there.!

Deminsky trail running half marathon 2018 (20)
- SkiRunner [Oct 19 00:01]
  Lesha, and what does the task “in the heart rate zone 170-178” mean?
- Minfo [Oct 18 11:42 pm]
  Alexander, thank you.
- Minfo [Oct 18 11:38 PM]
  Hello everyone. To say that I did not prepare for this trail means.
- SkiRunner [Oct 18 22:05]
  And that there are so few reviews, or rather, they are not at all.
- Lezhnev Alexander [Oct 16 09:52]
  Congratulations on a successful finish at a distance of 21 km: Tatiana.
- Autumn forest 2018 - run in Yaroslavl (2)
  - Minfo [17 Oct 23:06]
    Added final protocols with the results of the Yaroslavl run "Autumn Forest 2018".
  - IRON TEDDY ULTRA 2018 Running Marathon (3)
    - Lezhnev Alexander [Oct 16 11:07]
      Congratulations. At a distance of 30 km: Alexandra Kolomkina - 02:59:04.
    - YARЪ TRAIL - EPISODE III (2)
      - SkiRunner [Oct 15 22:30]
        Shouldn't we run YAR Trail?
      - Lezhnev Alexander [12 Oct 11:01]
        This run is included in the Race Calendar of the probeg.org portal and beyond.
      - Sergey Vladimirtsev passed away (2)
        Denis Gorodnov [12 Oct 20:53]
        My condolences to Sergey's dear friends! It is very sad that this is so.
        
        Ruslan Filonov [12 Oct 20:08]
        Condolences to relatives, friends, relatives and acquaintances of Sergei. Nice, cheerful, full.
        
        Your workouts from September to November 2018 (19)
        Minfo [Oct 11 11:22 pm]
        There are fewer and fewer sunny days left when you can ride.
        
        Moscow Half Marathon 2018 - My Capital (6)
        Minfo [Oct 11 22:46]
        Exactly, exactly. Igor improved his position in comparison with the results.
        
        There is a reason in what Flash said - in production, plastic is not so much thermoformed as THERMOPOLYMERIZED.
        
        that is, it is like paint - it cured once, and that's it. Then, when heated, it will not be as plastic at all as it was with the same heating at the time of molding. And then nothing can go around. And if you overheat, it starts to decompose, with a loss of strength, naturally
        
        In general, the results:
        Rossignol Salto GTX Boots
        They put a spacer in front of the problem area inside, imitating a bone at the base of the big toe, put it with an interference fit, so that the boot expanded in comparison with the initial position.
        They warmed with a construction hairdryer, without fanaticism, carefully.
        During the heating process, there was no visible change in the structure and appearance of the material, but the plastic became soft.
        As a result, in the place of the stop of the boot strut it softened and arched, after cooling it retained its acquired shape.
        The fitting showed that the problem with the pressure on the bone was completely eliminated, it remains to check it on the slope, in “combat” conditions.
        
        The photo is terrible. The left boot in the photo (standing with socks towards the photographer), “squeezed out” towards the neighbor
        
        A little bit of "apnu" an old theme.
        
        The boots press on the bones in a couple of places in the foot.
        There was a desire to add space there - to stretch the "soapbox" of UPZ-tov.
        From tools - an old board with a frog mount, several pieces of a board, including a support board with a recess for a bolt head, with through holes for an M8 bolt, a “finishing” patch in a pull-out shape, an adjustable wrench, a bolt with a nut and a “body” washer , building hair dryer.
        
        I noted in advance the place of the hood from the inside and outside.
        I fixed the soap dish into the frog, inside I installed a support piece of wood with a recess for the bolt head, into it - a bolt, on which a pair of pieces of wood with a hole and a persistent one was put on.
        Unscrewed the nut, resting the "punch" in the right place of the soap dish and making a "tightness"
        
        He warmed up the soap dish from the inside and outside with a construction hairdryer, and gradually unscrewed the nut.
        From the initial 8 turns of the visible thread section, I reached 15 turns, where I stopped.
        
        After the soap dish cooled down, I tightened the nut and shook out the tool.On the soap dish, in the desired place, there remained a visible and very noticeable bulge, from the inside, respectively, a notch
        
        Photos of the left (not pulled) and right (extended) boots.
        As far as we could measure, the difference between “before” and “after” was approximately 3-4 mm. It remains to check the result on the slope.
        
        Because Rossignol.
        
        I would be very grateful to those who answer the question - where in Moscow can you glue it.
        
        Until recently, on this occasion (this is not the first case for me) I turned to the master in the area of M Southwest, but for some reason now I can not get through to him. Maybe the number has changed.
        
        Along the way, it will be interesting to find out how this, in principle, is done correctly. I strongly suspect this is Epoxy. But the brand, hardener, plasticizer (if necessary), as well as the place where you can buy it, is a secret for me.
        
        In the life of every athlete who goes in for skiing, there are problems associated with the breakdown of equipment. In this article we will try to help you cope with the repair of ski boots (on SNS and Rotofella bindings).
        
        One of the worst breakdowns is when the sole comes off. It is almost impossible to return the boot to its previous state. However, there is one sure way! For this we need small screws and a few thin nuts. All parts are sold at any hardware store. Let's make a few narrow holes with a drill (along the diameter of the screw), and insert our screws into them (it is advisable to drill at the junction of the boot with the mount), head down, and screw our nuts from the inside of the boot.
        
        Also, for better and long-term holding, it is necessary to glue 2 parts (sole and shoes) with glue, for example "Poxipol". So, we only attached the bottom of the boot.
        
        The nose of the boot also remained. Let's drill a hole at the toe of the boot. As well as in the sole, insert the screw and tighten with the nut. If desired, you can put a rivet (it is advisable to purchase screws with a flat head).
        
        All SNS type boots have a fastener, usually one. If used carelessly, it can tear. If this happens, you need to get out a thread, a needle, a strong piece of fabric. Remove the torn Velcro (fastener) from the boot. If the Velcro is torn into two parts, then it is necessary to sew dense fabric to the two torn parts at the gap. If the fastener comes off in the place where a plastic ring is sewn to it, which clings to the boot, then it is necessary to attach the fabric with Velcro.
        
        Wrap the edge of the fabric around the ring and sew. If you have lost, you can use a stiff wire, but it will not last as long. At competitions, shoe parts are sold (rarely). So if you lose any parts, you can buy them. And also in the brand salons of the manufacturers of these boots.
        
        On shoes of a good brand such as "Pilot SNS", special ankle braces are installed. It often happens that these clips fall off the shoe. To return the boot to its previous appearance, and most importantly the foot lock, you need 2 bolts (small diameter). Drill 2 holes in the plastic strip (retainer).
        
        And we pass them through the retainer, and insert them into the boot. Accordingly, tightening the nut from the inside of the boot. The retainer will now perform the same function. And you don't have to buy new shoes.
        
        The pin (or clevis) is the key piece in the boot.
        
        I offer my own way to protect the pins. If you have already found that the plastic holding the pin has begun to wipe off, or the pin has already fallen out, do not be discouraged. You can try to cope with this problem. To do this, we need epoxy glue (don't count it as an advertisement, but I used Bison brand glue), scotch tape, a file, sandpaper and a newspaper (so as not to litter with production waste :)).
        
        The idea is to fill the pin in the shoe with epoxy glue. First, sand the area that will be filled with glue. If the pin falls out, reinsert it.To prevent the glue from spilling out of the designated area, stick the plastic grooves on the toes of the boots with tape, after which the prepared glue can be poured. After this operation, the boot will look something like this:
        
        In order for the glue to finally solidify, it is necessary to wait a day (without removing the tape). After the glue has frozen, remove the tape (if removed :)) and clean off the excess parts of the glue with a file so that it can be inserted into the mount. That’s practically all.
        
        But there are many ways to keep your boots from doing it. Here are some of them that will help your boots live a long and good life:
        
        - change shoes, i.e. wear boots to the track and back;
        
        - wipe the iron pins with a rag after training, because snow is also water, corrosion may occur (although now the pins are made of stainless steel);
        
        - not to walk on the asphalt in boots; the layer of plastic begins to peel off, and the pin may simply fall out;
        
        - if it is still very problematic for you to carry boots with you to the ski track and back, then buy special covers for ski boots, or if you feel sorry for the money - make them yourself. Here's an example of homemade covers:
        
        This is how you can put it on your boot:
        
        By following all these tips, you will extend the life of your ski boots.
        
        There the master is golden hands. If it is free, it will take it.
        
        Such things, perhaps really - will be repaired: aha:
        
        But here I undertook to treat a specific breakdown ..
        
        I got shoes with a broken heel - 1/3 of the overlays on the foot were chipped off + a small chip in the plastic of the boot itself.
        
        Yesterday I started repairs - the eboksidka was used. while it hardens.
        
        I promise to make a cool report when the renovation is complete.
        
        I will not get a cool report, but there is infa for thought.
        
        Initially: cracked boot. A crack on the side, from the point where the toe and sidewall meet. He treated like this:
        a hole is drilled at the end of the crack (well, that's understandable)
        I tried to grab it with epoxy - it does not take (well, it depends on the plastic - the surface is normally processed)
        a “patch” of a suitable size and shape (to cover the crack with a good margin) is cut out of the metal mesh and melted into the body of the boot with a soldering iron.
        
        On the bots repaired in this way, I skated for a couple of days, the mesh was a little frayed, but we can assume that the test passed. Of course, the bots have already died clinically, but the corpse moves and even performs the functions assigned to it.
        If anyone is interested, I can take a picture of him (a corpse, in the sense).
        
        Shl the method can only be rolled for cracks, a chipped piece will not return it))
        by the way, waterboy, as an option - to pile a new overlay (it is removable, you can simply replace it). Since no epoxy can withstand the loads that fall on this part of the boot.
        
        ZZY One more thing about epoxy. It can be “cooked” in almost any consistency - from hard and brittle to gummy.
        But it is very fragile to the love in the cold. It must be taken into account.
        
        Are you still hurrying? Have you read the topic? “REPAIR BOOTS” and the more details - the better! Spread it here soon. I wonder
        
        An overlay of a specific shape - you will not find such (I was looking for).
        The load is ponty there, but the load-bearing part is preserved, and my design solves this, you will see in the report ..
        
        Photo of the patient, or rather the prosthetic part.
        The center overlay is what you should end up with.
        Those "snot" with which the cover on the right is covered are the remains of epoxy (from a completely different repair - it was just a pity to throw it away, I decided to try it. As you can see, it crumbled in at least some bendable places.), They do not affect the speed in this situation ...
        The second photo shows that in the place of the greatest load, the mesh fibers are tousled, and even torn. But it really helps - the crack extends from the "shabby" place right past the letter "a" (there you can see a drilled hole).At the same time, she did not disperse, the condition of the bot practically did not worsen from riding.
        
        As for the overlays. Sometimes in the markets, etc. peasants appear who repair shoes, or sell materials for such repairs. Here you have to ask them.
        For example, I saw polyurethane plates with my own eyes. Should fit ..
        you can ask at the shoemaker's booths.
        
        About epoxy reinforcement - that's right. Sometimes it turned out to sculpt whole parts from a similar one, for a scooter (plastic, although somewhat different).
        
        The renovation is completed.
        
        Photo report for all stages - below ..
        
        This is the initial view of the patient, in the photo the left boot is prepared for filling with epoxy, you can see the frame and form made of electrical tape.
        
        Mixed, poured and set to dry. By the way, the hardener came across some kind of left, hardened slowly and uncertainly.
        
        After 2.5 days under the battery, it finally hardened properly, took off the form, got such a thing, pay attention to the copper frame
        
        I sharpened the heel on a grinder, cut out a lining from strong and tough shoe rubber and drilled holes for fasteners.
        
        I glued the overlay with superglue and bolted it to dry. The nuts inside the boot will not interfere - there is free space due to the plastic insole.
        
        Final finishing on a grinder, painting with a waterproof marker (used by shoemakers to paint heels). In the photo, the place of filling gave a reflection, in life there is no such effect.
        This would have ended the repair, but in the process of the latter, I discovered a decent crack on the back of the cuff (bootleg), which I apparently managed to aggravate during the repair process.
        
        He drilled holes along the edges of the crack and sewed it up with copper wire.
        
        I cut out a plate from sheet iron, bent it in shape, attached it inside the boot with 4 bolts. I had to cut the plastic a little so that the nuts would not rest.
        
        Final finishing with the same marker. By the way, the wire will not be visible - it will be covered by the pant leg ..
        Here is such a remontant, what is your opinion?
        
        Video (click to play).
        
        P.S. Bots have found a new owner!
        
        He skated in them for three days on Protas - all the holder.
        
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        Grade 3.2 who voted: 82