Do-it-yourself gtz gazelle repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gtz gazelle repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The reasons for a malfunction of the main brake cylinder are wear or loss of elasticity of the cuffs, wear of the working surfaces of the cylinder and pistons, swelling of the cuffs from the ingress of mineral oils into the system, clogging of the compensation holes.

Rice. 8.3. The main brake cylinder: 1 - body; 2 - tube; 3 - connecting sleeve; 4 - tank; 5 - protective cap; 6 - sensor of the signaling device of an emergency drop in the level of the brake fluid; 7 - a thrust ring; 8 - outer cuff; 9 - guide sleeve; 10, 17 - pistons; 11 - retaining ring; 12 - a sealing ring; 13 - piston washer; 14, 16 - cuffs; 15, 18 — thrust washers; 19 - spring: 20 - plug; A, B - compensation holes; C - bypass holes

If the fluid level in the reservoir of the master brake cylinder has decreased, and when examining the connections of pipelines and assemblies, including the brakes, no brake fluid leak was found, then in this case the brake fluid may leak through the outer cuff 8 (see Fig. 8.3) into the A1 cavity vacuum amplifier.

If the brake pedal, when a force of about 200-300 N (20-30 kgf) is applied to it, first moves approximately half the stroke, and then gradually moves to the cab floor under constant force, then in this case the main cuffs 14 or separating 16 are damaged. Defects in the dividing cuffs can be detected; for this, the liquid should be drained from the tank below the level of the dividing baffle by 10-15 mm in each section. If after pressing the brake pedal 3-5 times the fluid level in the sections changes, this indicates fluid overflow from one section to another, which is possible only when the separating cuffs are worn out.

Video (click to play).

In case of swelling of the cuffs, as a rule, the system does not loosen due to the overlap of the compensation holes by the main cuffs. To determine this malfunction, it is enough to disconnect the pipes from the master cylinder. If, after the fluid has flowed out from the working cavities, the leak stops and the level in the tank does not decrease, then the expansion holes are blocked with cuffs or clogged. In these cases, the master cylinder must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled.

Removal and disassembly of the master brake cylinder must be performed in the following order:

- clean the brake master cylinder, vacuum booster and pipelines connected to the master cylinder from dirt;

- disconnect the pipelines from the main brake cylinder and plug them with rubber caps from the bleed valves;

- unscrewing two nuts, remove the master brake cylinder from the pins of the vacuum booster cover;

- remove the cover 6 from the reservoir and drain the brake fluid;

- turn the cylinder upside down and, pressing the piston 10 several times, remove the remaining brake fluid from the master cylinder;

- disconnect the reservoir from the main brake cylinder and remove the connecting rubber bushings 3 with pipes 2 from the cylinder body;

- unscrew the plug 20, remove the spring 19 with the thrust washer 18. Press the piston 10, after which the piston 17 with the cuffs 14 and 16 can be removed by hand;

- remove the retaining ring 11 with pliers 7814-5593 or special pliers;

The brake master cylinder with a two-section reservoir and an emergency brake fluid level sensor is attached to a vacuum booster.

The pistons in the cylinder are arranged in series, the one closest to the vacuum booster activates the brakes of the rear wheels, the other piston activates the front wheels.

We remove the main brake cylinder for repair, as well as to replace the vacuum booster.

Usually the following defects of the brake master cylinder occur:

- Dirt of the master cylinder or heavy wear of its mirror;

- wear or damage to the piston cuff of the master cylinder;

- the compensation holes are clogged (spontaneous braking of the car occurs)

1. Disconnect the block of wires from the emergency drop sensor of the brake fluid level.

2. Using a 12 key, unscrew both brake pipe fittings and set them aside.

3. Using the "17" wrench, unscrew the nut and remove the clamp for fastening the hoses and wires.

4. Using the "17" key, unscrew the two nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum amplifier

5. Remove the master cylinder

6. A rubber O-ring is installed between the cylinder and the amplifier. It should be rearranged to a new cylinder (in case of replacement)

7. Unscrew the tank cap and, turning the cylinder upside down, drain the liquid from it. By pressing the piston several times, we completely drain the remaining liquid.

8. Pulling, remove the tank from the cylinder

Install the master brake cylinder in reverse order.

After filling the reservoir with fluid, we check the action of the brakes and, if necessary, bleed the brake system (see Bleeding the brake system, replacing the brake fluid).

Translated from the Turkic language, brake (turmaz) means a lining under the wheels of a cart. We have already gone through the evolutionary line of development of transport, and in a modern car, the braking system is not limited to just one lining under the wheels of a car.

The braking system of a car today is a complex system of mechanical and electronic assemblies and parts that are designed to slow down or stop a vehicle. Brakes are our safety, therefore timely maintenance and repair of the brake system is a priority concept by default.

The main link in the brake system is the brake master cylinder.

Repairing the brake master cylinder naturally involves knowing its design. As the main mechanism that applies the brakes, the brake master cylinder is essentially simple. Like everything ingenious.

Its main components are: pistons that actuate the circuits of the front and rear brakes, return springs and O-rings. The brake master cylinder is paired with a vacuum booster.

Before you start repairing the brake cylinder, you need to know that the assemblies of the primary and secondary pistons are not disassembled, but replaced as assembled with new ones.

The first sign that the master cylinder is out of order is poor braking performance or too soft brake pedal travel. This means that the time has come to conduct a thorough diagnosis of the brake system. And you need to start with the brake master cylinder.

Many factors affect brake malfunctions, and it is not a fact that the reason lies in the master cylinder. Brake diagnostics can lead you to the need to repair the front brake cylinder or repair the rear brake cylinder. But, as they say, an autopsy will show.

Checking the brake master cylinder

Verification starts with the case. First of all, we check for traces of brake fluid leakage on the cylinder body, then the presence of cracks in the body itself.

Then we proceed to check the condition of the cylinder sealing elements. The seals are swollen, which means we are starting to flush the master brake cylinder. Flushing should be done with alcohol. The culprit is, most likely, the wrong brake fluid. Or it is heavily soiled.

Any repair of the brake master cylinder implies a complete replacement of rubber products.

After rinsing the parts, they must be dried with compressed air. The mirror of the cylinder itself and the pistons must be clean, free of visually visible mechanical damage and rust.

The tightness of the main brake cylinder is checked on the bench. Therefore, in garage conditions, such a check is excluded.An increased clearance between the pistons and the cylinder is not allowed, check it in accordance with the parameters of the manual.

In fact, according to the observations and assessments of specialists, repairing the brake master cylinder in a garage rarely leads to the desired result - an increase in the effectiveness of the brakes. Image - DIY gtz gazelle repair

The recommendation is simple - it is easier to replace the complete brake master cylinder if it is not just about replacing the rubber seals.

When replacing the reservoir of the master brake cylinder, it is recommended to change the gaskets, having previously slightly lubricated them with brake fluid.

When completely replacing, or dismantling for repair of the master brake cylinder, first pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir and plug the pipelines.

It is strictly forbidden to repair the brake master cylinder pressure regulator. The characteristics of the regulator are set by the manufacturer during manufacture, therefore the pressure regulators are changed in the kit.

After repairing the brake cylinder, do not forget to bleed the brake system.

Good luck with your brake master cylinder repair.

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mavr68 22 Feb 2009

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mavr68 22 Feb 2009

mavr68, the repair kit only exists for those who have hands but do not have money. Everyone chooses for himself, change or sort.

This is understandable, you can sort it out and buy, in principle, there is a possibility (but you know money yourself - there is never much), but the point is in reliability (you yourself know the city mode of minibuses), which is why I am interested.
Post edited by mavr68: 22 February 2009 - 19:12

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Alexander Aktobe 22 Feb 2009

I practice this topic at the expense of all these cylinders:
1.Brakes: main: if the drip into vacuum, then you can change the current cuff, and you do not need to disassemble it all and unscrew the tubes so that after that you do not pump the system from the side of the stem, the stopper is removed and the old cuff is dismantled with a screwdriver and a new one is charged. if it began to bypass then completely change not which repair kits have never helped, but if so. then not for long.
workers: all can be easily repaired without exception.
2. Coupling: the main one: you can change the cuffs if you change them well and you get normal ones. the most ideal option is to put a complete repair kit with a piston, etc. (available for sale) will run longer than a new one.
worker: how the drip changed the piston for two rivulets, that's all the love. it also goes longer than a new one, and the drip has changed two cuffs and a truncated.

YES GUYS, when disassembling the working cylinders, clean them with fine sandpaper. those. all the rust. good luck!

the repair kit will not help 90%, checked. very rarely when it happens that helps

Well, first you need to look at the mirror at least.

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Ducson Feb 23, 2009

Hello dear drivers! NOT A CARSMAN!

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tolmachev 25 feb 2009

Pro! Please tell me what is better in this situation: the brake fluid is leaving - the main reason (rushing from the vacuum), which is better - immediately replace the main one or buy a repair kit (mileage 92 tons)
I don't know how on gazelles, on the eight I changed the repair kit 2 times - it's useless - I bought a new one - after 80t. and sold without any problems. With a friend, the situation is different: I put a new one, after a couple of days I kissed the four, they took it, sorted out the old one - 2 years (then I merged it), tell me 850 r. or a repair kit?
Thank you all in advance.

All repair kits usually do not run for a long time. Definitely new.

Remove the brake master cylinder.

Remove the O-ring.

... take it out together with the O-ring ...

Squeezing the retaining ring with round nose pliers.

We take out the piston of the rear circuit together with the outer collar and the guide sleeve by the shank.

To remove the cuff from it, ..

... unscrew the spring holder screw.

We remove the piston of the front contour by pushing it with a finger from the side of the thread, and remove the separating cuffs, gently prying them with a thin screwdriver.

We wash all parts in clean brake fluid or isopropyl alcohol.

We assemble the master brake cylinder in reverse order. Install new cuffs as shown in the figure.

Tighten the screw of the spring holder of the primary piston until it stops.

ATTENTION
Do not wash the brake system parts with gasoline, acetone or other solvents that damage the rubber seals. Flush off the conservation grease before installing new parts.

The reasons for a malfunction of the main brake cylinder are wear or loss of elasticity of the cuffs, wear of the working surfaces of the cylinder and pistons, swelling of the cuffs (due to the ingress of mineral oils into the system), clogging of the compensation hole.

If the fluid level in the reservoir of the master brake cylinder has decreased, and when examining the connections of pipelines and assemblies, including the brakes, no fluid leak is found, then in this case the brake fluid may leak through the outer cuff into the vacuum booster cavity.

If, when a constant force of 50-100 N (5-10 kgf) is applied, the brake pedal moves halfway, and then gradually moves to the cab floor, the main cuffs are damaged or swollen.

In the event of swelling of the cuffs and the secondary piston valve, non-braking of the system may occur. To define this

malfunction, it is necessary to disconnect the tubes from the master cylinder. In a serviceable cylinder, liquid dropping (gravity) from both cylinder bores and a decrease in the liquid level in the tank should be observed.

To remove the master cylinder, you need a 13 wrench, a TORX E30 wrench, a syringe or a bulb, a flat-blade screwdriver, a 12 special wrench for the brake pipe nuts.

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

We pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir of the master brake cylinder with a rubber bulb or syringe.

Disconnect the brake fluid level sensor wiring block

We loosen the tightening of the hose clamp in the clutch drive

We move the clamp along the hose and disconnect the hose. After disconnecting the hose, do not lower it down, but secure it in the upper position in any way possible. The brake fluid will remain in the hose, then after installing the reservoir, it is not necessary to pump the clutch release hydraulic drive.

Unscrew the screw securing the reservoir to the master brake cylinder

If during operation there was a leakage of brake fluid through the connecting sleeves, pry the sleeves with a screwdriver and remove them from the holes in the cylinder body.

Before installing the reservoir, insert new connecting sleeves into the holes of the brake master cylinder. To facilitate the installation of the connecting sleeves in the cylinder and the reservoir pipes in the sleeves, moisten them with fresh brake fluid.

Unscrew the pipe fastening nuts

Moving the pipelines to the side

We put suitable plugs on the tubes or wrap them with a piece of cellophane film.

We unscrew the two nuts securing the brake master cylinder to the vacuum booster

Remove the master brake cylinder

Before installing the reservoir, insert new connecting sleeves into the holes of the new brake master cylinder. Install a new O-ring on the brake master cylinder.

Install the master brake cylinder in reverse order. Fill in the brake fluid and bleed the brake system (article - Replacing the fluid and bleeding the Gazelle Next brakes).

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Repair of the main brake cylinder Gazelle

A detailed video lesson on removing the rear drums to a summary and replacing brake pads on a gazelle

Adjustment of the protrusion of the head of the rod of the vacuum brake booster. In the video, Eugene will show how, in case of violation of the adjustment of the protrusion of the rod head, it can be correctly adjusted.

Kipul new original 3 years. I bought a Chinese for two years. We went over the original (((5))) times !! Zero sense! Don't f *** yourself brains! Buy albeit china but assembled. These rem kits are just Porn.

This video shows you how to make yourself the WRONG BRAKES. Who cares to find pictures on this main thing and CAREFULLY study which cuff is where. CAREFULLY. And I consider this video a fake!

They showed very poorly. Hands change something and the camera shows the brake body. And how to remove the tank was not shown at all.

Cuffs how to change from right to left how to show

what time they sell cuffs better and not to sort out, otherwise after the bulkhead, thoughts arise that you do not understand anything in the car, especially Gas 3302. I experienced it myself When the shops are closed on weekends

barrels not necessary to remove why?

I came to the conclusion that all the repair kits are shit especially in the last year. that you can't put a sprinkler after 500-700 kilometers. better to buy a new one right away.

what was the point you changed, and then what? I changed three sets of cuffs for the main brake ‘pumped everything three four times and it’s zero as the pedal went to the floor and goes‘ it only slows down at the end of the stroke. I’ll have to buy a new cylinder although this one took six months.

Repair of the main brake cylinder Gazelle

A detailed video lesson on removing the rear drums to a summary and replacing brake pads on a gazelle

Repair of the main brake cylinder Gazelle.

The video summarizes the process of repairing the brake master cylinder. pleasant viewing! do not forget.

Car repair in garage (home) conditions. BRT repair kit No. 22.

Review of new items, brake master cylinder gazelle next.

Restoration, repair of the brake cylinder. JOIN VSP GROUP PARTNER PROGRAM:

The brakes on the Gazelle were gone, they found the cause and eliminated it.

When you press the brake pedal, brake fluid gradually flows from one reservoir to another, thereby.

The brakes do not bleed, bleed the master brake cylinder, as shown in the video. subn.

How to Disassemble Brake Master Cylinder Subaru Forester SF. In this video you will learn what the GTZ is made of (Chief.

On the site you can always familiarize yourself with the assortment and order the product you are interested in, either.

A brief overview of problems with the Gazelle brake system. And the answer to the question where does the brake fluid go!

Little tweaks - which will increase the life of - refurbished cylinders - both brake and.

Replacing the rear brake cylinder collar. This video shows how to replace the rear brake cuff.

Replacing the brake master cylinder and vacuum booster. Removing and installing the master brake cylinder.

Video instructions for repairing the brake master cylinder using the company's repair kits.

Gazelle before business (2008): poor, hard gear shifting is the cause of the clutch master cylinder. At the gazelle.

The main brake cylinder how to repair bleed replace change the main brake. How to fix it.

Repair of the main brake cylinder GazelleHow to avoid broken pivot pins in the front beam. The procedure is simple, and the consequences are sad, and if necessary, the wedges can be changed. Good luck and take care of your wet nurse. My second channel.MACHINE REPAIR AND TROUBLESHOOTING INTERIOR FILTER FOR GASELWhen diagnosing the brake system, special attention is paid to the brake master cylinder. After all, it is he who is responsible for the effectiveness of braking and the functionality of the entire brake system depends on its serviceability.Brake master cylinderYou can check and timely repair all important components and assemblies of the brake system in your own garage. At first, it doesn't hurt to remember what the master cylinder is and what it consists of.The main brake cylinder is part of the dual-circuit brake system and is one of the components of its hydraulic drive. The hydraulic drive, in addition to the cylinder, includes a brake pedal, a vacuum booster, an expansion tank, working cylinders and a system of hoses and lines for brake fluid.Before removing and disassembling the master cylinder, it is necessary to diagnose the brake system. As a rule, the main malfunction of the cylinder is the uneven distribution of the brake fluid along the working circuits of the system. This can occur as a result of "airing" the system or as a result of fluid leakage. As a result, the pressure is distributed unevenly along the contours and the wheels are triggered with different intensities.Diagnostics of the main brake cylinder:1. The control lamp is on - indicator of system malfunction.
2. The cylinder body is checked for brake fluid leaks. The connection to the circuits is checked.
3. Check for mechanical damage to the cylinder body.
4. The pressure in the circuits is measured. For this, a pressure gauge is connected to the openings of the circuits, the indicators of which are compared with the check figures specified in the operating manual.Repair of the master brake cylinderAfter diagnostics, you can start disassembling the cylinder. To do this, it must be removed from the car, having previously unscrewed the outputs of the circuits. The cylinder is disassembled and all parts are washed with alcohol. All rubber parts must be replaced with new ones. There is a separate repair kit for each cylinder model. If the rubber parts are swollen and deformed during disassembly, this is a signal that the wrong brake fluid has been used.The cylinder mirror and piston must be free of scratches and mechanical damage. As a result of breaking the mirror, it is better to completely replace the cylinder with a new one. Do not disassemble or attempt to repair the cylinder pressure regulator. This assembly is factory set and should only be replaced as a set.Important! Before removing the master cylinder of the brake system of your car, you need to drain absolutely all the brake fluid from the distribution tank, and plug the circuit lines. After repair and installation in place of the brake cylinder, all pipelines, without exception, are connected in place, the brake fluid is poured into the distribution tank and the entire brake system is pumped until the complete removal of air that may accidentally appear in the system.Video of repair of the master brake cylinder.

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Volga GAZ 3110, 310221 replacement repair of the main brake cylinder

Removing the brake master cylinder

This video shows you how to make yourself the WRONG BRAKES. Who cares to find pictures on this main thing and CAREFULLY study which cuff is where. CAREFULLY. And I consider this video a fake!

They showed very poorly. Hands change something and the camera shows the brake body. And how to remove the tank was not shown at all.

Cuffs how to change from right to left how to show

barrels not necessary to remove why?

I came to the conclusion that all the repair kits are shit especially in the last year. that you can't put a sprinkler after 500-700 kilometers. better to buy a new one right away.

There are no main and secondary components and assemblies in a car, but our health and safety directly depends on the failure of some of them. Therefore, the stable operation of the brake system, its constant diagnostics, adjustment and timely repair of the devices that make up it should become a priority. Even with the slightest suspicion that a working or master brake cylinder is leaking, you should not postpone repairs and adjustments, but deal with them right away.

To perform diagnostics, repair or replace faulty parts with your own hands, you need to understand the operation of the entire brake system, what are the signs of possible breakdowns and how to repair the master brake cylinder.

The scheme of operation of the hydraulic drive of this system is simple: the pressed pedal, which acts on the vacuum booster (if provided), or directly on the main brake cylinder, the latter, creating pressure on the hydraulic fluid, sends it through the branch pipes to the working rollers, which open the brake pads.

It follows from this that the master cylinder is considered the main unit in this scheme; in order to understand how to repair the master brake cylinder with your own hands, you need to study all its components.

The principle of operation and construction of the brake master cylinder is similar to the clutch master drum, given that in many vehicles one mechanism performs a double function. But in many cars, there are two pistons in the brake drum to operate the front and rear or left and right circuits, depending on the make of the car. After disassembling the brake master cylinder, you can see the following main parts:

1, 2 - Tank lid with gasket. 3 - Reservoir of the main brake cylinder. 4 - Bushings for the bypass fitting. 7 - Tank body. 10, 28 - Return springs. 12, 26 - Inner cuffs. 13, 25 - Bypass valves. 14 - The piston that applies the front brakes. 15, 16 - Outer cuffs of the front drive brakes. 20, 22 - Outer cuffs of the rear drive brakes. 24 - The piston responsible for the operation of the rear brakes.

The main signs of unsatisfactory braking performance can be caused by all components in this scheme: rear or front circuits with pipes, malfunction of the brake master cylinder or poor pedal adjustment:

Abnormal behavior of a car when braking or a "soft" brake pedal indicates that pedal adjustment is required or air has entered the system and needs to be pumped.
The corresponding indicator light comes on, the pads may be worn out or the entire system needs to be pumped.
Stains are observed under the bottom and spots of smudges are visible upon visual inspection. Somewhere the branch pipe is leaking hydraulic fluid, or the cuffs are worn out.

When checking the pressure in the circuits, it does not coincide with the check figures - the main roller is unstable, namely, the fitting unevenly bypasses the liquid or it flows in one of them. Poor quality of the hydraulic fluid may also be the reason; replacement and bleeding may help in this case.

If some of these signs are found, there is no need to make hasty conclusions that a replacement of the master brake cylinder is required, perhaps bleeding the system can help, but even if this did not work, do not rush to change it, it may be possible to repair it. On sale you can always find spare parts in the form of a repair kit for the main brake cylinder, which may include: a fitting, pistons, cuffs, springs, retaining rings, etc.

After the master brake cylinder has been removed, it is worth inspecting for mechanical damage, if not, you need to disassemble it and replace the failed parts with those that are in the repair kit. After disassembling the brake master cylinder, in any case, all rubber parts - cuffs, etc. should be changed.The principle of disassembly is simple:

having previously secured it in a vice, unscrew the fluid supply fittings from the body;
remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver;
carefully disassemble and remove the cuffs, pistons, springs and other spare parts.

After cleaning all components and rinsing them in hydraulic fluid, it is required to carefully inspect the inner mirror of the case for scoring and other damage. If swollen cuffs are found, it is worth changing the hydraulic fluid, the poor quality of which may be the cause of this phenomenon. One of the taboos is the adjustment and repair of the pressure regulator, for which the parameters are set by the manufacturer, it is replaced as a kit.

The assembly of the master brake cylinder is carried out in the reverse order. Having changed the spare parts requiring replacement: a fitting, a set of cuffs and others for new ones, the question arises, how to check the master brake cylinder after assembly? Image - DIY gtz gazelle repair

For this, there is a special stand consisting of the following units:

Pumping valves.
Manometers.
Absorbent rollers.
Hydraulic fluid reservoir.
Maximum offset pointer.
Mechanical handwheel.
Main drum housing.

This stand will help you determine if the assembly was done correctly with your own hands. After installing the main drum in place, you need to bleed the brake system. If mechanical damage is found on the body, then it is required to replace the master brake cylinder with a new one.

How to replace the brake master cylinder? All actions are performed as in its repair. Pump out the hydraulic fluid from the tank, disconnect all pipes from the body, disconnect the drum itself from the vacuum booster or the body of the car and from the brake pedal. Installation of the brake master cylinder is carried out in the reverse order. After completing all the repair steps, you should bleed the brakes. Bleeding is carried out according to the scheme: rear right and left wheels and then the front ones. After bleeding, the brake pedal height is adjusted.

We also recommend watching a video on the topic:

Video (click to play).