DIY gur gazelle sable barguzin repair

Gazelle Sable. Power steering adjustment

The adjustment involves two steps: adjusting the screw thrust bearings and adjusting the gearing.

Adjusting the screw thrust bearings

In order to determine the need for adjustment, set the steering wheel to the middle position.

Disconnect the longitudinal steering rod from the bipod (see "Replacing the steering rods and their joints", p. 108).

... while constantly shaking the bipod, we control the backlash until it is completely eliminated.
We lock the adjusting nut with a beard, settling the sections of its collar into the grooves of the crankcase.

Gear adjustment

The gearing is adjusted only after the play in the propeller bearings has been eliminated.
On a mechanism installed in a vice.
... holding the input shaft with a 16 key.
... swing the bipod. The play should not be felt by the hand (exceed 0.3 mm at the end of the bipod).

Otherwise, remove the bipod from the shaft-sector. We treat the connection with a penetrating liquid.

To facilitate control of the Sable, the manufacturer installs a hydraulic booster. If you have difficulties in repairing Sobol power steering with your own hands, our video will tell you quick and effective ways to restore the power steering.

If the owner noticed that the gur pump does not work, further repair of the unit on Sobol should begin with determining the reasons for the failure. The main ones are described below, as well as recovery options.

1. Poor system strap tension. The solution to the problem is position adjustment or replacement.
2. Mechanical problems. In this case, the repair of power steering (GUR) Gazelle, UAZ, Sobol, Volga must begin with diagnosing the state of the components.
3. The steering wheel turns poorly. The reason for this can be either a low oil level in the system, or belt wear. You should also pay attention to the engine speed and the condition of the filter - it may be clogged.
4. The pump refused to run. To restore the power steering pump of a Sable car, you need to purchase a new repair kit and replace all seals / oil seals / other parts.
5. The presence of extraneous sounds and clicks. The reason is severe wear of the controls. To view the power steering repair manual, open the video on this page.
6. Absence of normal pressure of the working fluid. Practice shows that this is due to poor operation of the pump, or the presence of a leak in the system.
7. Wear or damage to tires. The only solution is to install a new kit. Riding on damaged tires is highly discouraged.

Video (click to play).

For further repair of the power steering pump quickly with your own hands, our video will always be useful. The wizard gives detailed explanations, and also shows the sequence of actions when repairing power steering on Sobol.

And what is the first thing to change?
I have it completely new, but only in '98 under number 222.
All this time I lay in the garage.
After reading reviews about fluid leaks from our precious domestic creations, I decided not to risk it, but to sort it out.
I contacted firms for this specialization, they announced 3 thousand I do not understand just for WHAT? -)
the oil seals need to be changed, this is understandable. I found two of them.
Does anyone have experience with bulkheads and what needs to be replaced for every fireman?

Post has been editedShurak 60: 29 May 2013 - 23:15

In fact, nothing complicated, but you need to find a suitable set of oil seals for your power steering. I usually change all the oil seals right away - the kit is only 200 - 300r.And then what to disassemble again.

I will try to describe the process later - there are pitfalls, there is simply no time now. wait a little, and maybe someone else will unsubscribe.

In general, it is real and even without a garage and adapt. I went through several times right on the street, but it is necessary that garbage and sand do not fly into the insides, the atoms will grab the surfaces and throw out the power steering.

I will now describe my process and it may not be the same as the tutorials. Forgive me if I confuse terms and names. Maybe someone will fix it later.

1. Removing the power steering. First, set the wheels to the straight position.
a. First, I drain the oil. To do this, slightly unscrew the oil pipe union at the outlet from the power steering - (that goes to the oil reservoir).
b. Disconnect the oil hoses (unscrew the bolts)
v. Disconnect from steering shaft and tie rods. It's simple on top, but a puller may come in handy below.
D. Unscrew the power steering and remove.

2. Analysis of the power steering. The main thing is to remember what was where.

A. First, remove the driven shaft.
To do this, unscrew the locking bolts that hold the side bearings, and remove the locking ring, where the shaft sticks out more and where you will knock out, then use a screwdriver and a hammer to rotate the side bearings so that the center of the driven shaft moves further from the main part of the power steering. In general, in order for the gears to move further differently, when you knock out the shaft, it will pull up the surfaces in the power steering case and then you have to grind it down in order to put new oil seals and they will not bulge. Then you just knock out the shaft. Be careful, roller bearings will sprinkle right away - do not lose them.

B. Now we disassemble the drive shaft.
To do this, unscrew the four screws on the top cover and remove the shaft. Then unscrew the nut of the lower bearing and remove it.

B. Disassembly of the drive shaft piston: (This is if the power steering wedges in both directions and generally does not work well). There is only one oil seal and it is never in the repair kits.

G. Change all the oil seals that you see with new ones. Be careful with the bottom PTFE. It can be stretched a little to dress. If you drag it, it will grab. The seals are located inside the side bearings on the shaft, and on the housing for the same bearings. One is on the piston and two on the top cap. Another one on the bottom of the drive shaft (I wrote about it above)

3. Assembling the power steering.
Everything is in the reverse order, only the upper cover is screwed on first, and then the lower bearing is put in and the lower bearing nut (with two holes) is screwed in until it stops. Then the driven shaft is installed. It is worth noting here that at first the upper bearing is assembled and put on the shaft, then the lower bearing is inserted into the power steering housing and locked with a retaining ring (again, the center of the driven shaft has shifted further from the main part of the power steering). Then the bottom bearing is formed and the shaft with the top bearing is carefully inserted. It is important that the rollers do not fall out into the power steering. You can check - shake. They will clatter inside the case. Then put the retaining ring.
After assembly, you need to check if nothing is interfering? To do this, you need to turn the drive shaft - it must make four turns.

4. Power steering adjustment. Unfortunately, I do it by eye.
First, I tighten the lower bearing until it stops. You have to turn it with a hammer and a punch (I couldn't find the key). But do not overtighten so as not to crush the bearings.
Then I bring the eccentrics of the side bearings. They should rotate in one direction, that is, if one is clockwise, then the other is counterclockwise), traces from the locking bolts can be a reference point - they must be combined with the bolts themselves. Then try to tighten it almost to the stop, but so that the rotation of the bearings is the same. It is also impossible to overtighten - the oil seals will quickly wear out.
Then stop.

5.installation of power steering
Everything here is the same as in parsing. The only thing is that the steering wheel is connected first, then turn the steering wheel all the way, and then two turns in the opposite direction - this will be the central position and then put on the bipod.

6.Oil filling and bleeding.
The car must not be started before filling with oil.
When you fill the tank full of oil, start the car, but do not turn the steering wheel. The oil will go away immediately. Top up until it stops leaving and there is less foam. Then turn the steering wheel a little to the sides (but not in place), this will expel the remaining air, a fraction of the level, and small bubbles will go away by themselves. And enjoy the soft work of the GUR.

Sorry for the unprofessional language. Maybe someone else will clarify something and suggest.
I went over my power steering 4 times for 150,000 km. Another 10 times on another machine. A friend helped and disassembled the drive shaft to the screws, but assembled it incorrectly. It took a long time to find the right combination.

And what is the first thing to change?
I have it completely new, but only in '98 under number 222.
All this time I lay in the garage.
After reading reviews about fluid leaks from our precious domestic creations, I decided not to risk it, but to sort it out.
I contacted firms for this specialization, they announced 3 thousand I do not understand just for WHAT? -)
the oil seals need to be changed, this is understandable. I found two of them.
Does anyone have experience with bulkheads and what needs to be replaced for every fireman?

Listen, I'm sorry, I didn't read your question right away.
New - not used? Or was it used and flowed? If not used, then it is better not to touch or disassemble, but to put and drive until it flows. And it flows from above, where the steering shaft enters. There the oil seal can be easily changed without removing the power steering.
And down through the side bearings on the driven shaft. if they are of the old model, then they need to be replaced with a new one with fluoroplastic gaskets - these do not flow longer. To do this, you need to disassemble the power steering.

But even so, it’s better not to climb the trains until it starts flowing. Power steering is disassembled only in case of leaks and poor performance.

Listen, I'm sorry, I didn't read your question right away.
New - not used? Or was it used and flowed? If not used, then it is better not to touch or disassemble, but to put and drive until it flows. And it flows from above, where the steering shaft enters. There the oil seal can be easily changed without removing the power steering.
And down through the side bearings on the driven shaft. if they are of the old model, then they need to be replaced with a new one with fluoroplastic gaskets - these do not flow longer. To do this, you need to disassemble the power steering.

But even so, it’s better not to climb the trains until it starts flowing. Power steering is disassembled only in case of leaks and poor performance.

Thank you very much and I did just that.
I put it down and don't touch it. It works, it doesn't flow, and glory to you Lyokh, who drove it to me-)))
Admins.
The GUR Bulkhead Council thinks that it should be posted for the information of all on public display.
Clearly written and in great detail.

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