DIY Honda Civic gur repair

Thank you for this report Michael199 for editing.
Steering rack Honda Civic cannot be called a disease in the full sense of the word, but with 180,000 - 200,000 km of run, even it comes into a state of "fatigue". Through cracked, torn anthers, dirt gets into the rail. The process of accelerated wear of the steering mechanism begins under the influence of abrasive in the road dust and getting into the rack with dirt. Plus, without protection, the guide rails rust pretty quickly. Not the best way to repair is to remove the rust and fill the rack with new grease, especially if the grease is not designed to work specifically in the steering rack. If the rack does not work properly, the load goes to the power steering (GUR) as a result of which it wears out faster than with a working rack. The new OEM Honda rake costs about $ 1200-1500, or even more, which, you see, at a car price of $ 7000. becomes just a gold piece. A contract rail, it is also repaired, costs a little cheaper, but in the same price range, $ 500-1000. What to do? Of course, do not lose heart, but repair the rail on your own.

To get started, you will need the following things, in general repair price 100-150 $

• Steering rack repair kit - 06531-S04-J51 ($ 50)
• Anthers to the rail - 53534-ST0-013 and 53534-SR3-N52 ($ 30)
• Steering column bushing - 53416-S04-J51 ($ 15)
• Power steering fluid - Honda PSF 3 bottles or 1 liter
• Good vise
• 10, 12, 14, 17: heads and keys
• Adjustable wrench 34 or 36 approx.
• Live power steering if broken

First thing remove the steering rack Honda Civic. Unscrew two hoses on the rail itself. Hoses run from the pump to the rail, and from the rail to the fluid reservoir. To make it easier to do, you must first unscrew the other fasteners of these hoses, they are attached to the subframe with 10 small bolts.
First thing you drop the soft tube, which goes from the reservoir to the rail (fastened with a clamp), then unscrew the rigid high-pressure pipe with a 14 split wrench, which goes from the pump to the steering rack itself.
You also have to remove the middle part of the exhaust and a small metal protectioncovering the steering rack from below, remove the steering tips and rods, and in the cabin, unscrew the two bolts by 10, which hold the cardan between the steering column and the steering rack and remove the cardan up. Next, we extend the steering rack guide in one direction (I moved to the right) and take it out.

10mm bolts holding the steering rack gimbal

It is enough to simply loosen the upper bolt in the steering column and, by moving the steering gimbal upwards, disconnect it from the rack.

IMPORTANT REMINDER! After you remove the gimbal, under no circumstances turn the wheel! Without a rack, the steering wheel will not have a limitation of travel, and by rotating it to either side, you can ruin the loop of contacts on the steering wheel. You can turn the steering wheel if necessary! But always return it to the position in which you took it off! Also, before disconnecting this cardan between the steering column and the rack, put the wheels in a level position and try to keep the steering wheel in the same position throughout the work.

By removing the rail, you will be very unhappy with her appearance, there is dirt, rust all around, yes, and in this state most of the components on your car, but for now forget about it. After a while, you will bring the rail into excellent condition with your own hands, and it will serve you for a very long time, the main thing is attentiveness and accuracy. Unscrew absolutely everything that is on the rail, and try not to mix up or lose the removed parts!

Start with guide sleeve. To do this, unscrew the lock nut (size 34 or 36, I used an adjustable "gas" wrench) then unscrew the tensioner with a 14 wrench and pull out the spring and the bushing itself. Next, use a 12 wrench to unscrew the tubes that remain on the rail. In my case, there was horror:

Swamp and rust inside the steering rack.

With a key or a 12 head, unscrew the two bolts distributor and take it out.

Distributor bolts removed

As you understand, all removed parts simply need to be cleaned of a layer of dirt and washed as best as possible. But the hardest part of the job is still ahead of you.

When assembling the rail at the factory, after tightening the main nut, a small point is pressed on the rail body with a core or a press, which fixes the nut and prevents it from unscrewing arbitrarily under the influence of shocks and vibration that occur when driving a car.

This point should be drilled out with a 3mm drill to a depth of about 2.5 - 3.0 mm. If you do not drill this point, then you run the risk of unscrewing this nut, rip off the thread on it. Initially, this is exactly what happened to me. I had to look for a new nut or rather, buy a dead steering rack and carefully unscrew this nut from it.

And it was necessary to drill like this

If everything is drilled correctly, then the nut can be easily unscrewed, and the thread remains in place. For your information, the original nut costs about $ 100 or 6000 r and wait for it under the order for about a month. Having unscrewed the restrictive nut, we pull out the rail guide as much as possible and then carefully press it out together with the oil seal. Then we take a special mandrel and with its help press out the second oil seal. (According to the manual, the head on 17 seems to fit, but it wedged me up, so I did not risk it and carved myself a special mandrel). In principle, everything is parsed. Once again we wash and clean everything!

Before assembling, it is worth paying attention to a couple of points. The main reason why our reiki begin to die is our own carelessness. Namely - torn anthers of the steering rack. Do not think that if you wrap a bag on the steering rod, then dirt, sand and water will not seep into it. All this leads to the formation of a rack of rust on the working shaft, which, forming uneven growths or pits, is just the same spoils the oil seal. In my case, everything was rather sad. The black stripe on the shaft and the dots are rust that has eaten deep enough. And because of it the rail was leaking strongly.

In this case, there are several solutions:

• Give the shaft to a turner for grinding (but it is important to take into account that you cannot remove too much)
• Buy a new shaft (To my surprise, its cost is noticeably lower than that of the rack assembly)
• Grind the shaft by ourselves (which I actually did)

It turned out, of course, so-so. But, looking ahead, I will say that the result justified itself

After you have prepared your old shaft or bought a new one, you can proceed to reassembly.

My ground shaft and rack

ATTENTION! Be sure to purchase the original steering rack repair kit in advance! (06531-S04-J51).

Genuine Honda repair kit

The kit includes everything you need

First of all, we change rubber and plastic rings on the guide rail. We remove the old rings and put on new ones from the repair kit, first rubber, and then plastic.

Be sure to level the plastic ring so that it is not twisted anywhere.

In the rail itself, in the reverse order, we lay an iron washer from purchased repair kit. Basically, you just throw it into the rack body.

Before installing the first oil seal, according to the manual, the teeth on the shaft must be wrapped with special tape. To be more precise, we are talking about ordinary FUM tape, which can be purchased at almost any hardware store that has a plumbing department. It is necessary to wind the shaft so that when you put on the outer seal, you do not damage its working surface on the teeth on the shaft.

Shaft wrapped with FUM tape

You need to wind the tape from the center of the shaft to the edge, in this case, when you put on the oil seal, it will not cling to the tape, but will slide along it. Then lightly grease the oil seal and slide it over the shaft so that the flat side is facing from the center to the teeth.

Then insert the rail into the housing. Due to the stuffing box, the shaft will not fit easily, it must be pressed in. In fact, you press the oil seal into place with the shaft.

Then put the second oil seal with the flat side towards you and tighten the restricting nut.

Correct installation of the stuffing box

After you have tightened the restrictive nut, you can core-fill the same point on the rail as it was done at the factory so that the nut does not unscrew. (Personally, I did not do this, and just covered the old place with sealant).

Next, we put in place the liquid distributor, changing the sealing rubber from the repair kit on it. But, before doing this, you will need to crank the shaft along the teeth of the distributor. Then a little new grease needs to be filled into the lower bearing. This is necessary so that the distributor turns more easily and there is no extraneous noise. Please note that if your rack has been leaking for a long time, then in this bearing there is no normal lubrication left. Therefore this must be done. It is also advisable to lubricate the bearing on the distributor itself.

We stuff new grease into the lower bearing

The teeth on the shaft are also lubricated with new grease. Just don't put too much of it.

Now the only thing left to put is the steering rack guide. There is also small nuance, which I think it would be nice to pay attention to. If your rail knocks, but does not leak, the rods and tips are not always the reason for this. In some cases, backlash in the rail appears due to wear on this rail. Since its part, which is in contact with the shaft, is made of plastic, it wears out, which leads to the appearance of free play between the teeth on the shaft and the teeth on the liquid distributor. In its normal state, the spring and this guide press the shaft against the distributor, thereby removing the play between the teeth.

In the photo you can see, on the left is an old worn out bushing, and on the right is a new original (by the way, it costs about $ 10 or 600 rubles.)

Left - worn, right - new steering rack guides

Sometimes it is enough just to change this guide, and all problems with backlash are solved.

But back to our rake:

Before installing the guide, it is necessary to apply a certain amount of grease to its plastic part.

Before installing, the new guide must be lubricated

Next, put the guide in place. Then we put the washer, if you had one, and put the spring in place. Before installing the spring, lubricate the back of the guide bush or the spring itself and tighten the bolt in its place.

According to the manual on the bulkhead of the rail, in order to correctly set the pressure force of the guide, you need a bolt that fixes it first tighten to 25Nm, and then weaken it. This is done in order to align the shaft and guide, and to develop the spring a little. After loosen this bolt, it must be tightened, but with a smaller torque of only 3.9Nm. Then, holding the bolt with a 14 wrench, screw and tighten the thin locknut.

After that, screw on all the tubes? which were on the slats and EVERYTHING. The rail is ready.

Your steering rack is as good as new!

After repairing the rail itself, we install the removed spare parts back to the car. After you put the rail in place, first of all, screw on the high pressure pipes (from the pump to the rail) and the return hose. Then you can safely screw the rail to the stretcher. Then you screw on the tie rods, put on the anthers and screw on the tips. If you were able to remove the rail yourself, then you should also be able to put it back together, there is a purely constructor. To install the steering wheel, set the wheels to approximately level position, and then put the steering column cardan on the rack.

Next, fill the power steering fluid into the tank, Original HONDA PSF. Since the system has been drained completely, you will need almost a liter of new fluid.

Smoothly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, DO NOT start the car! With such manipulations with the steering wheel, the liquid enters the rail, being distributed throughout the system. Only after the liquid from the tank has left at least a little can you start the engine and repeat the rotation with the steering wheel in order for air bubbles to come out. Then stop the machine and add fluid to average mark. Between minimum and maximum!

If everything was done correctly, then the noises when the steering wheel rotates will disappear, the steering wheel itself will turn much easier, the knocks will disappear, and the power steering fluid will stop leaving and will not foam. Such renovation will save the family budget very well. And finally, since the tips were removed, you will have to make similarity collapse. The total cost of repairing the steering rack, with all original consumables, will be approximately $ 100-150. P.S. do not delay repairing your cars. Change all consumables on time.

This article is relevant for Honda vehicles produced in 1992-2000, such as Civic EJ9, Civic EK3, CIVIC EK2, CIVIC EK4 (partially). The information will be relevant for owners of Honda Integra in DB6, DC1 bodies, with ZC, D15B, D16A engines.

This is really more convenient than writing comments below.

if you throw off the pictures of this and that, I will tell you whether it will suit you or not

there all the salt is that on old motors the belt tension was adjusted with a special screw and the pump in its mount went up and down at the same time, and on the new ones the pump at the upper attachment point stands motionless and rides back and forth along the lower ear and the belt is pulled with a pry bar )))

although if the distance between the ears of the attachment of the old and new pumps is the same (I did not measure it myself, measure it), then the old one can be put instead of the new one, well, mlm butt the mount for the old pump and put it. it seems to me more convenient - to tighten the belt with a screw

looked through the catalog. in general, you have a different pump right now.

but the one you buy should get up without problems, the only belt tension can be obtained with a pry bar.

one of the brackets is generally the same.

it would be nice to have a photo of the pump from the other side

In general, I took off my pump today:
I disassembled and understood - replacing the bearing and oil seal. looked at the existential - bearing 400r, oil seal 150r (this is for a period of 3 days).
Prior to that, I called the offices for the sake of interest to find out - what is it worth to restore the pump .. the price tag ranged from 4000 to 7000r. PPC I'm shocked ..
There is nothing complicated about disassembling the pump, main - accuracy,
the difficulty arose with the removal of the ring near the bearing. there was no tool to remove it. I took it off with screwdrivers and knives. thick it.
petals - watch them, do not lose, I was looking for 15 minutes alone - FOUND

I had to knock out the bearing harshly ..

I'm waiting for spare parts from the existential. I will post a photo report on the assembly later.

I set myself the task of making the buzzing power steering work, but even it does not work out very well. Buzzing when you turn the steering wheel in place, the steering wheel is heavy.
I started by replacing the slurry - it seemed that it became a little better, but rather nothing has changed.
Then removing the pump, disassembling, flushing the petals - the result is similar to the previous one.
I am thinking of changing the bearing with the oil seal and turning the petals, but I haven’t decided yet, does it make sense? I have one friend who did not take a steam bath - he filled in an additive conditioner-sealant and it became all buzzing.

A question for connoisseurs - what wears out in GUR?
The next question is who treated GUR and how?

I decided to unsubscribe, while there is nothing to do on the weekend 🙂

I ordered all the rubber bands, bearing and oil seal. I changed it. The result is positive, but still the problem was solved by 80 percent, and 20 percent remained. When you turn the steering wheel, there is still a slight hum of the power steering, barely audible.

Something like this. the best way out is a contract pump

Special tools required
Fixture 32 x 35 mm (07746-0010100)

NOTE: If necessary, refer to the disassembled drawing of the pump for the following disassembly steps.

Remove the suction flange gasket and O-ring.

Remove the relief valve plug, take out the o-ring, valve spring and relief valve.

Unscrew the pump housing plug, remove the O-ring and the pump loading spring.

Remove the pump cover and its seals.

Remove the outer ring, cam ring, rotor, vanes and side plate.

Remove the rubber seal and slide seal from the outer ring.

Remove the o-ring from the bottom of the case.

Remove the 40mm inner circlip, then remove the drive shaft by hitting the end with a plastic hammer.

Check for scratches and wear in the passage in which the valve travels.

Lubricate the new bonnet seals (A) and a new 13mm o-ring (B) with hydraulic fluid, then install them in the grooves in the bonnet (C).

NOTE: Be careful not to install the inlet O-ring as this will they are the same size.

Lubricate the black rubber seal (E) with power steering fluid and install it in the slot (F) in the outer ring.

Insert pin (D) into the channel formed by the aligned slots of the cam and outer rings, then insert the pin into hole (E).

Lubricate the new o-ring (D) with hydraulic fluid, then install it in the groove on the side plate.

Task: to install the power steering from the engine. b20 for b16a2 engine for Honda civic

Fit

Power steering installation progress for Honda Civic

The first step was to bent the air conditioner pipe.

1. He took off his pulley and tried them on with each other, on top is my old

I measured the distance from the pulley to the attachment to the engine 6.7-6.8 mm, moved the pulley to B20 and measured it too. the upper ear is 6.4 mm, and the lower one is 7.1 - not the same as mine. I figured it out for the engine, but it's crooked. the belt would not last long in this situation.

2. I figured it out - it looks uneven

I put a washer under the upper ear, and cut the lower one with a grinder to the required 6.8 mm.

4. I also threw in places the nipples for the branch pipe. they are different in diameter. b20 more

5.

6.

Video of a faulty pump:

I almost forgot - there is no hole for the belt tensioner screw on the pump from B20, I pulled it with a mounting kit.

Result: the work on installing and adjusting the power steering for the Honda Civic is completed.

Problem: knocking on the steering rack on a Honda Civic

A tapping steering rack is unpleasant, but frankly knocking it

Bad symptoms - steering rack creak. The creak appeared on its own, without outside "helpers" and progressed rather quickly (in 2-3 weeks from the state of "barely audible" to the state of "tired of listening"). It consisted in the following: when the steering wheel was installed directly and with slight swaying of the steering wheel to the left and to the right, a distinct creak appeared, similar to the friction of, say, hard rubber on metal. Or the creak of a finger on the glass. In general, friction is clearly between two non-lubricated surfaces. At the same time, this creak intensified several times during prolonged driving (more than 2 hours). On short trips, he was barely audible. At first, there was suspicion of steering tips or lower ball ends, but they were in order. Then, by typing, it was found that the creak was clearly in the rail itself. The malfunction itself from the very beginning, obviously, was of a non-fatal nature, this obviously did not affect the reliability, but the ears wither .. In general, it was decided to eliminate it. Once to eliminate, but the creak is still unknown from where, there is only one conclusion - to remove the rail. This is where the fun began. 🙂

The machine is prepared to remove the rail. The battery, resonator and air filter are removed together with the case. (The resonator is a disgusting thing. A bracket with a clip is screwed to it from below, closer to the engine shield, and a thick wiring harness is held on it. Carefully remove this clip, without undue effort, otherwise it’s not far from white heat. - shoot.)
2. Actually the very removal of the rail. In the cabin, one bolt of the steering universal joint is unscrewed (the main thing is not to forget to mark its position relative to the shaft!).In the engine compartment, 2 bolts are unscrewed on the right, and one nut on the left, which directly attach the rail. Next, you need to completely unscrew the supports themselves, on which the rail was attached to the body. 3 bolts for each support. After that, the rake has already been removed.
3. Unscrew 2 bolts with which the amplifier motor is attached to the rail, and with a little effort it is pulled out. If it is not removed, the rail cannot be pulled out.

The rail is removed.
4. Now for the fun part. 🙂 Actually, how to remove the rail. The rack is removed through the opening in the right wheel arch. There is no other way to pull it out, tested by 4 hours of torment (well, you can't remove the motor). It cannot be pulled from above, the heater hoses are in the way, from below - the rear engine support. We jack up the right wheel, remove it, and remove the rack. It's easy - 3 cup nuts and 2 bolts mount to the steering knuckle. The stand is removed, it is important not to forget to tie up the steering knuckle, otherwise it can, under its own weight, pull the oil seal out of the box and oil will flow from there. The steering tip is unscrewed, the steering rod is removed. You get the following picture:

So that after everything you do not have to re-toe, before removing the steering tips, you need to mark the steering rods and, when unscrewing, count the revolutions until they are disconnected. Running a little ahead, we, in spite of the calculations, were mistaken by one turn. It happens. For reinsurance, you can make convergence at the stand.
5. For the left wheel it is a little easier - you do not need to remove the rack, only the steering tip.
6. Well, almost the final, the rail is pulled out through the opening. half the battle is almost done.

7. The rail is disassembled. First, the rods are unscrewed with an adjustable wrench, then 2 bolts are unscrewed and the T-shaped shiny part is removed (I don’t know what to call it ..) When removing the rods, check the lubricant under the anthers - we had it, and a lot. Further, such a picture is drawn:

8. Now there is very little left, 2 clamps for fastening the anther of the rail are removed and…. you can see the reason why there is so much crap ..

The picture was taken through one of the 2 central holes. There is some kind of plastic spacer inside, it slides along with the rail. Depletion due to lack of lubrication is immediately visible.

The inner surface of the rail. It can be seen that the edge along which this very plastic slid was completely without lubrication. Regretted, or something ..

Close-up of the same detail. Working out in 3 places on the one hand, and the same amount on the other. What a trifle, but hemorrhoids ..

Actually, this is a plastic, something like a spacer between the T-shaped figurine (again I have not figured out what to call it ..) and the rail itself. Not enough lubricant - it creaked. During a long trip from the heat of the motor, the rail warmed up, all the parts expanded and its friction against the rail body increased - as did the creak. The solution is to fill the rail with graphite grease:

Actually, that's almost all. 🙂 Everything is put in place and assembled in reverse order.

As for the assembly, the most important thing is to screw on the steering wheel so that it stands straight, as before, and not make a mistake with the rods, so that the convergence is not disturbed. We have broken - twist the traction by 1 turn on one side. If you don't want to fool yourself, you can set the corners on the stand. The result of the repair itself is that the effort on the steering wheel has decreased quite noticeably, and the creak, of course, disappeared completely. 🙂

The time wasted was just a lot of dofiga. Started at 10 am, finished at 8 pm. The main hemorrhage was that they did not know how to pull out the rail. In general, it is realistic to keep within 3-4 hours, if you have a good idea of ​​what to do and in what sequence.

The power steering fluid in the Honda Civic is an oil that transfers resistance from the power steering pump to the hydraulic cylinder, and also lubricates all friction pairs. The oil is circulated through the hoses connecting the power steering units, including the Honda Civic power steering plastic expansion tank, which has MIN and MAX marks to determine the level.

The power steering system itself is a Honda Civic hydraulic system, part of the steering mechanism to make it easier to turn the steering wheel and set the trajectory. If the power steering refuses, it is possible to drive the car, but the steering wheel will be difficult to turn, it will become heavy.

The power steering fluid level in the Honda Civic can be determined by the marks on the power steering plastic expansion tank. During operation, the power steering fluid of a Honda Civic can flow in various places, most often through hoses. As a result, the power steering oil level will drop.

Driving without fluid in the power steering of a Honda Civic risks damaging the power steering pump, which costs a lot of money as it runs dry. As a result, he will receive serious damage and fail. The power steering pump in the Honda Civic starts working as soon as you start the car. If your Honda Civic is left without oil in the power steering system, then the best solution would be to call a tow truck.

Intensive use of the Honda Civic makes the power steering oil color darker over time, often with a burning smell. This is a reason to think about replacing it. Overheating of the oil often occurs when the steering wheel is fixed for a long time in the extreme position, until it boils, the pressure in this case is maximum. You should also not leave the car when parking for a long time with the steering wheel turned all the way.

Quick prevention and inspection of the Honda Civic power steering includes: monitoring the power steering oil level and its quality in the power steering expansion tank, checking the drive belt tension on the Honda Civic power steering pump, assessing the condition of the hoses - cracks, smudges, fogging, as well as searching for leaks at the joints of the power steering elements.

There are two ways to change the fluid in the Honda Civic power steering:

• partial replacement of power steering fluid Honda Civic.
• complete replacement of power steering fluid Honda Civic.

For a partial replacement of the power steering oil, you will need a syringe (with a tube) and the oil itself, so much that at the end of the work it ceases to be dark.

Partial replacement of power steering fluid in Honda Civic:

1. We unscrew the cover of the power steering expansion tank of the Honda Civic.
2. With a syringe with a tube, we completely pump out the liquid from the power steering tank.
3. Fill the tank with new liquid, up to the MAX level.
4. We start the engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to the extreme position.
5. We turn off the engine and repeat point # 1 again until we get the desired result - light oil.

The next method for changing the power steering oil in a Honda Civic will allow you to achieve almost 100% replacement.

Complete replacement of power steering fluid in Honda Civic:

Drive onto an overpass, or jack up the car so as to hang the front car wheels of the Honda Civic, in order to be able to easily rotate them on an uncranked engine.

DIY steering rack repair
HONDA CIVIC sedan, 2000, ES body, D15.

Let's make a reservation in advance - the process is not easy and we faced a lot of confusion, which we managed to solve throughout the day from morning until evening.

What we need to carry out this repair of the steering rack is the symptoms, in particular, the creak of the steering rack. The squeak appeared on its own, without extraneous violence on the car and rather quickly intensified (in 2-3 weeks from an almost inaudible state to a state of strong squeak). With the steering wheel mounted directly and with slight turns left and right, a noticeably audible creak appeared, similar to the rubbing of plastic on metal, or the creak of a finger on glass - obviously the friction of two non-lubricated surfaces. At the same time, this sound was noticeably amplified during prolonged driving - more than 2-3 hours. On short trips, it was almost inaudible and almost invisible.

At first, there was a suspicion of steering tips or lower ball joints, but they were in order. Then, by poking, it was found that there was a creak inside the steering rack itself. This malfunction, obviously, was in the nature of a slight breakdown and this obviously did not affect the reliability of the car, but it is morally and physically unpleasant for the driver. We decided to solve this problem. As a result, we came to the conclusion - to remove the steering rack. This is where the most interesting and haemorrhoid things began.

Preparing the car for removing the steering rack.

remove the resonator. The resonator is a weird thing. A bracket with fastening is screwed to it from below, closer to the engine shield. It holds the wiring. Remove this clip carefully, without any extra effort. Pull the clip tab slightly towards you and only then remove it.

remove the air filter together with the housing.

Inside: unscrew one bolt of the steering propeller shaft - do not forget to mark its position relative to the shaft!).

In the engine compartment, unscrew the two bolts on the right and one nut on the left, which directly attach the rail.

Next, you need to completely unscrew the supports themselves, on which the rail is attached to the body. Three bolts for each support.

Unscrew the 2 bolts with which the amplifier motor is attached to the rail, and with a little effort it is pulled out. If it is not removed, the rail cannot be pulled out.

How to remove the rail
The rack is removed through the opening in the right wheel arch.
There is no other way to pull it out, tested by 4 hours of torment (well, you can't remove the motor!). It cannot be pulled from above, the heater hoses are in the way, from below - the rear engine support.

We jack up the right wheel, remove it, and remove the rack. It's easy - 3 cup nuts and 2 bolts mount to the steering knuckle.

The stand is removed, it is important not to forget to tie up the steering knuckle, otherwise it can, under its own weight, pull the oil seal out of the box and oil will flow from there.

The steering tip is unscrewed, the steering rod is removed.
You get the following picture:

Running a little ahead, we, in spite of the calculations, were wrong on the contrary. It happens. For reinsurance, you can make convergence at the stand.

For the left wheel, it's a little easier - you don't need to remove the rack, only the steering tip. Well, practically the end, the rail is pulled out through the opening.

Unscrew the rods with an adjustable wrench;

Then unscrew the 2 bolts and remove the T-shaped shiny part (I don’t know what to call it ..).

When removing the rods, check the grease under the anthers - we had it, and a lot. Further, such a picture:

Now there is very little left, 2 clamps for fastening the anther of the rail and are removed. the reason for which there is so much torment is visible. The picture was taken through one of the 2 central holes. There is some kind of plastic spacer inside, it slides along with the rail. Depletion due to lack of lubrication is immediately visible.

It can be seen that the edge along which this very plastic slid was completely without lubrication. Regretted, or something ..

Something like a spacer between the T-shaped figurine (which I never figured out what to call it.) And the rail itself. Not enough lubricant - it creaked. During a long trip, the rail warmed up from the heat of the motor, all the parts expanded and its friction against the rail body increased - as did the creak. The solution is to fill the rail with graphite grease

That's all! Now we collect. Everything is put in place and assembled in reverse order.

As for the assembly, the most important thing is to screw on the steering wheel so that it stands straight, as before, and not make a mistake with the rods, so that the convergence is not disturbed. We have broken - twisted by 1 turn the traction on one side. Who does not want to fool himself - you can set the corners at the stand.

Repair result:
1. The effort on the steering wheel has decreased quite noticeably.
2. The creak, of course, disappeared completely.

Time spent: The time wasted was just a lot of dofiga. Started at 10 am, finished at 8 pm. The main problem was that they did not know how to pull out the rail (it took most of the time to find out). Advice - don't do it yourself! It is better to give such a responsible work in the hands of professionals, and it is inexpensive and there will be a guarantee - a fact.

Specialized car service "Hydraulics" provides services for the repair of steering racks of the car.

Call the indicated numbers and explain the essence of the problem with the steering rack of your car - we will write you down for diagnostics and carry out all the necessary measures.

Russia, St. Petersburg, st. Chemists, house 2
+7 (812) 527-37-79, 8 ( 906 ) 255-54-42

Turning to our service for repairing the power steering, you can be sure of the high quality of work and efficiency!

Removal and installation of the steering pump
Early model steering pump

1 - Bolts of a pressure line
2 - a clamp of a return line
3 - the Adjusting bolt
4 - Fastening bolts

Late model steering pump

1 - Bolts of a pressure line
2 - a clamp of a return line
3 - the Adjusting bolt
4 - the Fastening bolt

Implementation plan
Honda Civic power steering pump removal installation
1. Separate from the battery first the negative wire, then the positive.

If the car stereo is equipped with a security code, before disconnecting the battery, make sure you have the correct combination for putting the audio system into operation!

2. Separate the hydraulic lines from the pump (see illustrations above). Pay attention to the difference in the design of the connection assemblies of the pressure and return lines: the return line is attached to the connection with a clamp, while the pressure line is connected by means of two bolts. Cap the open ends of both lines immediately after disconnecting to minimize hydraulic fluid loss and to prevent dirt from entering the system. Replace the pressure line union O-ring.
3. Remove the steering pump adjusting bolt.
4. Loosen the retaining bolts and remove the pump from the engine.
5. Installation is carried out upside-down. Do not forget at the end of the procedure to remove air from the steering system (see. Removing air from the hydraulic path of the power steering system) and adjust the tension of the drive belt (see the Routine maintenance Head).
Honda Civic power steering pump removal installation
Removing air from the hydraulic path of the power steering system