DIY Honda Civic gur repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gur honda civic repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Thank you for this report Michael199 for editing.
Steering rack Honda Civic cannot be called a disease in the full sense of the word, but with 180,000 - 200,000 km of run, even it comes into a state of "fatigue". Through cracked, torn anthers, dirt gets into the rail. The process of accelerated wear of the steering mechanism begins under the influence of abrasive in the road dust and getting into the rack with dirt. Plus, without protection, the guide rails rust pretty quickly. Not the best way to repair is to remove the rust and fill the rack with new grease, especially if the grease is not designed to work specifically in the steering rack. If the rack does not work properly, the load goes to the power steering (GUR) as a result of which it wears out faster than with a working rack. The new OEM Honda rake costs about $ 1200-1500, or even more, which, you see, at a car price of $ 7000. becomes just a gold piece. A contract rail, it is also repaired, costs a little cheaper, but in the same price range, $ 500-1000. What to do? Of course, do not lose heart, but repair the rail on your own.

To get started, you will need the following things, in general repair price 100-150 $

  • Steering rack repair kit - 06531-S04-J51 ($ 50)
  • Anthers to the rail - 53534-ST0-013 and 53534-SR3-N52 ($ 30)
  • Steering column bushing - 53416-S04-J51 ($ 15)
  • Power steering fluid - Honda PSF 3 bottles or 1 liter
  • Good vise
  • 10, 12, 14, 17: heads and keys
  • Adjustable wrench 34 or 36 approx.
  • Live power steering if broken
Video (click to play).

First thing remove the steering rack Honda Civic. Unscrew two hoses on the rail itself. Hoses run from the pump to the rail, and from the rail to the fluid reservoir. To make it easier to do, you must first unscrew the other fasteners of these hoses, they are attached to the subframe with 10 small bolts.
First thing you drop the soft tube, which goes from the reservoir to the rail (fastened with a clamp), then unscrew the rigid high-pressure pipe with a 14 split wrench, which goes from the pump to the steering rack itself.
You also have to remove the middle part of the exhaust and a small metal protectioncovering the steering rack from below, remove the steering tips and rods, and in the cabin, unscrew the two bolts by 10, which hold the cardan between the steering column and the steering rack and remove the cardan up. Next, we extend the steering rack guide in one direction (I moved to the right) and take it out.

10mm bolts holding the steering rack gimbal

It is enough to simply loosen the upper bolt in the steering column and, by moving the steering gimbal upwards, disconnect it from the rack.

IMPORTANT REMINDER! After you remove the gimbal, under no circumstances turn the wheel! Without a rack, the steering wheel will not have a limitation of travel, and by rotating it to either side, you can ruin the loop of contacts on the steering wheel. You can turn the steering wheel if necessary! But always return it to the position in which you took it off! Also, before disconnecting this cardan between the steering column and the rack, put the wheels in a level position and try to keep the steering wheel in the same position throughout the work.

By removing the rail, you will be very unhappy with her appearance, there is dirt, rust all around, yes, and in this state most of the components on your car, but for now forget about it. After a while, you will bring the rail into excellent condition with your own hands, and it will serve you for a very long time, the main thing is attentiveness and accuracy. Unscrew absolutely everything that is on the rail, and try not to mix up or lose the removed parts!

Start with guide sleeve. To do this, unscrew the lock nut (size 34 or 36, I used an adjustable "gas" wrench) then unscrew the tensioner with a 14 wrench and pull out the spring and the bushing itself. Next, use a 12 wrench to unscrew the tubes that remain on the rail. In my case, there was horror:

Swamp and rust inside the steering rack.

With a key or a 12 head, unscrew the two bolts distributor and take it out.

Distributor bolts removed

As you understand, all removed parts simply need to be cleaned of a layer of dirt and washed as best as possible. But the hardest part of the job is still ahead of you.

When assembling the rail at the factory, after tightening the main nut, a small point is pressed on the rail body with a core or a press, which fixes the nut and prevents it from unscrewing arbitrarily under the influence of shocks and vibration that occur when driving a car.

This point should be drilled out with a 3mm drill to a depth of about 2.5 - 3.0 mm. If you do not drill this point, then you run the risk of unscrewing this nut, rip off the thread on it. Initially, this is exactly what happened to me. I had to look for a new nut or rather, buy a dead steering rack and carefully unscrew this nut from it.

And it was necessary to drill like this

If everything is drilled correctly, then the nut can be easily unscrewed, and the thread remains in place. For your information, the original nut costs about $ 100 or 6000 r and wait for it under the order for about a month. Having unscrewed the restrictive nut, we pull out the rail guide as much as possible and then carefully press it out together with the oil seal. Then we take a special mandrel and with its help press out the second oil seal. (According to the manual, the head on 17 seems to fit, but it wedged me up, so I did not risk it and carved myself a special mandrel). In principle, everything is parsed. Once again we wash and clean everything!

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Before assembling, it is worth paying attention to a couple of points. The main reason why our reiki begin to die is our own carelessness. Namely - torn anthers of the steering rack. Do not think that if you wrap a bag on the steering rod, then dirt, sand and water will not seep into it. All this leads to the formation of a rack of rust on the working shaft, which, forming uneven growths or pits, is just the same spoils the oil seal. In my case, everything was rather sad. The black stripe on the shaft and the dots are rust that has eaten deep enough. And because of it the rail was leaking strongly.

In this case, there are several solutions:

  • Give the shaft to a turner for grinding (but it is important to take into account that you cannot remove too much)
  • Buy a new shaft (To my surprise, its cost is noticeably lower than that of the rack assembly)
  • Grind the shaft by ourselves (which I actually did)

It turned out, of course, so-so. But, looking ahead, I will say that the result justified itself

After you have prepared your old shaft or bought a new one, you can proceed to reassembly.

My ground shaft and rack

ATTENTION! Be sure to purchase the original steering rack repair kit in advance! (06531-S04-J51).

Genuine Honda repair kit

The kit includes everything you need

First of all, we change rubber and plastic rings on the guide rail. We remove the old rings and put on new ones from the repair kit, first rubber, and then plastic.

Be sure to level the plastic ring so that it is not twisted anywhere.

In the rail itself, in the reverse order, we lay an iron washer from purchased repair kit. Basically, you just throw it into the rack body.

Before installing the first oil seal, according to the manual, the teeth on the shaft must be wrapped with special tape. To be more precise, we are talking about ordinary FUM tape, which can be purchased at almost any hardware store that has a plumbing department. It is necessary to wind the shaft so that when you put on the outer seal, you do not damage its working surface on the teeth on the shaft.

Shaft wrapped with FUM tape

You need to wind the tape from the center of the shaft to the edge, in this case, when you put on the oil seal, it will not cling to the tape, but will slide along it. Then lightly grease the oil seal and slide it over the shaft so that the flat side is facing from the center to the teeth.

Then insert the rail into the housing. Due to the stuffing box, the shaft will not fit easily, it must be pressed in. In fact, you press the oil seal into place with the shaft.

Then put the second oil seal with the flat side towards you and tighten the restricting nut.

Correct installation of the stuffing box

After you have tightened the restrictive nut, you can core-fill the same point on the rail as it was done at the factory so that the nut does not unscrew. (Personally, I did not do this, and just covered the old place with sealant).

Next, we put in place the liquid distributor, changing the sealing rubber from the repair kit on it. But, before doing this, you will need to crank the shaft along the teeth of the distributor. Then a little new grease needs to be filled into the lower bearing. This is necessary so that the distributor turns more easily and there is no extraneous noise. Please note that if your rack has been leaking for a long time, then in this bearing there is no normal lubrication left. Therefore this must be done. It is also advisable to lubricate the bearing on the distributor itself.

We stuff new grease into the lower bearing

The teeth on the shaft are also lubricated with new grease. Just don't put too much of it.

Now the only thing left to put is the steering rack guide. There is also small nuance, which I think it would be nice to pay attention to. If your rail knocks, but does not leak, the rods and tips are not always the reason for this. In some cases, backlash in the rail appears due to wear on this rail. Since its part, which is in contact with the shaft, is made of plastic, it wears out, which leads to the appearance of free play between the teeth on the shaft and the teeth on the liquid distributor. In its normal state, the spring and this guide press the shaft against the distributor, thereby removing the play between the teeth.

In the photo you can see, on the left is an old worn out bushing, and on the right is a new original (by the way, it costs about $ 10 or 600 rubles.)

Left - worn, right - new steering rack guides

Sometimes it is enough just to change this guide, and all problems with backlash are solved.

But back to our rake:

Before installing the guide, it is necessary to apply a certain amount of grease to its plastic part.

Before installing, the new guide must be lubricated

Next, put the guide in place. Then we put the washer, if you had one, and put the spring in place. Before installing the spring, lubricate the back of the guide bush or the spring itself and tighten the bolt in its place.

According to the manual on the bulkhead of the rail, in order to correctly set the pressure force of the guide, you need a bolt that fixes it first tighten to 25Nm, and then weaken it. This is done in order to align the shaft and guide, and to develop the spring a little. After loosen this bolt, it must be tightened, but with a smaller torque of only 3.9Nm. Then, holding the bolt with a 14 wrench, screw and tighten the thin locknut.

After that, screw on all the tubes? which were on the slats and EVERYTHING. The rail is ready.

Your steering rack is as good as new!

After repairing the rail itself, we install the removed spare parts back to the car. After you put the rail in place, first of all, screw on the high pressure pipes (from the pump to the rail) and the return hose. Then you can safely screw the rail to the stretcher. Then you screw on the tie rods, put on the anthers and screw on the tips. If you were able to remove the rail yourself, then you should also be able to put it back together, there is a purely constructor. To install the steering wheel, set the wheels to approximately level position, and then put the steering column cardan on the rack.

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Next, fill the power steering fluid into the tank, Original HONDA PSF. Since the system has been drained completely, you will need almost a liter of new fluid.

Smoothly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, DO NOT start the car! With such manipulations with the steering wheel, the liquid enters the rail, being distributed throughout the system. Only after the liquid from the tank has left at least a little can you start the engine and repeat the rotation with the steering wheel in order for air bubbles to come out. Then stop the machine and add fluid to average mark. Between minimum and maximum!

If everything was done correctly, then the noises when the steering wheel rotates will disappear, the steering wheel itself will turn much easier, the knocks will disappear, and the power steering fluid will stop leaving and will not foam. Such renovation will save the family budget very well. And finally, since the tips were removed, you will have to make similarity collapse. The total cost of repairing the steering rack, with all original consumables, will be approximately $ 100-150. P.S. do not delay repairing your cars. Change all consumables on time.

This article is relevant for Honda vehicles produced in 1992-2000, such as Civic EJ9, Civic EK3, CIVIC EK2, CIVIC EK4 (partially). The information will be relevant for owners of Honda Integra in DB6, DC1 bodies, with ZC, D15B, D16A engines.

This is really more convenient than writing comments below.

if you throw off the pictures of this and that, I will tell you whether it will suit you or not

there all the salt is that on old motors the belt tension was adjusted with a special screw and the pump in its mount went up and down at the same time, and on the new ones the pump at the upper attachment point stands motionless and rides back and forth along the lower ear and the belt is pulled with a pry bar )))

although if the distance between the ears of the attachment of the old and new pumps is the same (I did not measure it myself, measure it), then the old one can be put instead of the new one, well, mlm butt the mount for the old pump and put it. it seems to me more convenient - to tighten the belt with a screw

looked through the catalog. in general, you have a different pump right now.

but the one you buy should get up without problems, the only belt tension can be obtained with a pry bar.

one of the brackets is generally the same.

it would be nice to have a photo of the pump from the other side

In general, I took off my pump today:
I disassembled and understood - replacing the bearing and oil seal. looked at the existential - bearing 400r, oil seal 150r (this is for a period of 3 days).
Prior to that, I called the offices for the sake of interest to find out - what is it worth to restore the pump .. the price tag ranged from 4000 to 7000r. PPC I'm shocked ..
There is nothing complicated about disassembling the pump, main - accuracy,
the difficulty arose with the removal of the ring near the bearing. there was no tool to remove it. I took it off with screwdrivers and knives. thick it.
petals - watch them, do not lose, I was looking for 15 minutes alone - FOUND Image - DIY Honda Civic gur repair


I had to knock out the bearing harshly ..

I'm waiting for spare parts from the existential. I will post a photo report on the assembly later.

I set myself the task of making the buzzing power steering work, but even it does not work out very well. Buzzing when you turn the steering wheel in place, the steering wheel is heavy.
I started by replacing the slurry - it seemed that it became a little better, but rather nothing has changed.
Then removing the pump, disassembling, flushing the petals - the result is similar to the previous one.
I am thinking of changing the bearing with the oil seal and turning the petals, but I haven’t decided yet, does it make sense? I have one friend who did not take a steam bath - he filled in an additive conditioner-sealant and it became all buzzing.

A question for connoisseurs - what wears out in GUR?
The next question is who treated GUR and how?

I decided to unsubscribe, while there is nothing to do on the weekend 🙂

I ordered all the rubber bands, bearing and oil seal. I changed it. The result is positive, but still the problem was solved by 80 percent, and 20 percent remained. When you turn the steering wheel, there is still a slight hum of the power steering, barely audible.

Something like this. the best way out is a contract pump

Special tools required
Fixture 32 x 35 mm (07746-0010100)

NOTE: If necessary, refer to the disassembled drawing of the pump for the following disassembly steps.

Remove the suction flange gasket and O-ring.

Remove the relief valve plug, take out the o-ring, valve spring and relief valve.

Unscrew the pump housing plug, remove the O-ring and the pump loading spring.

Remove the pump cover and its seals.

Remove the outer ring, cam ring, rotor, vanes and side plate.

Remove the rubber seal and slide seal from the outer ring.

Remove the o-ring from the bottom of the case.

Remove the 40mm inner circlip, then remove the drive shaft by hitting the end with a plastic hammer.

Check for scratches and wear in the passage in which the valve travels.

Lubricate the new bonnet seals (A) and a new 13mm o-ring (B) with hydraulic fluid, then install them in the grooves in the bonnet (C).

NOTE: Be careful not to install the inlet O-ring as this will they are the same size.

Lubricate the black rubber seal (E) with power steering fluid and install it in the slot (F) in the outer ring.

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Insert pin (D) into the channel formed by the aligned slots of the cam and outer rings, then insert the pin into hole (E).

Lubricate the new o-ring (D) with hydraulic fluid, then install it in the groove on the side plate.

Task: to install the power steering from the engine. b20 for b16a2 engine for Honda civic

Image - DIY Honda Civic gur repair