Many modern cars are equipped with a power steering (GUR). Russian cars were also equipped with such systems, but not in such quantities as we would like. Power steering for VAZ 2110 was installed on rare trim levels, for example, VAZ 21124. In this article, we will show how you can repair the power steering pump yourself .
The price of a new pump is more than 3 thousand rubles. Any part can be repaired, the power steering pump is no exception.
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The power steering pump on cars of the tenth family was installed by the ZF brand (ZFLS 7691 955 339). It is also suitable for VAZ 2170 and 2123, as well as Audi A6, Wolksvagen Passat or Transporter.restore the operation of the power steering pump it is still possible.
We remove and disassemble the power steering pump (instructions). Then we thoroughly clean it from dirt and visually inspect it to determine the causes of the breakdown. One of them can be a step on the inner wall of the pump casing. The step can be removed with a drill attachment.
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To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.
You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.
Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:
In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.
If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic:
VIDEO
A very helpful article! And although I have a Hyundai H1 4 × 4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. My Gur is stuck (most likely - the bearing). Disassembled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Wish I saw this article before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to put a wrench on the lower part of the fitting, and unscrew the upper one.
Very helpful article. I myself am now suffering with gur Ford EXP3 4.6. And howls and tight ... to sort out nodo ... There is already a mess in my head from studying and generally searching for information ....
Many modern cars are equipped with a power steering (GUR). Russian cars were also equipped with such systems, but not in such quantities as we would like. The power steering on the VAZ 2110 was installed on rare trim levels, for example, the VAZ 21124. In this article, we will show how you can repair the power steering pump yourself.
The price of a new pump is more than 3 thousand rubles. Any part can be repaired, the power steering pump is no exception.
We remove and disassemble the power steering pump (instructions). Then we thoroughly clean it from dirt and visually inspect it to determine the causes of the breakdown. One of them can be a step on the inner wall of the pump casing. The step can be removed with a drill attachment.
Another reason for a power steering pump malfunction may be a worn bearing in a closed housing (450 rubles) or an old oil seal (50 rubles).
There are two ways to fix the new bearing in the pump housing:
Alternatively, secure the bearing inside the pump using the folded edges of the housing.
If power steering pump buzzing after assembly, then do not be alarmed, this is grinding in the parts, after 300-500 km the hum will go away.
Welcome!
Note!
Summary:
Where is the power steering reservoir?
When should you change the power steering oil?
Note!
Note!
Draining:
Note!
2) Then unscrew the lid of the power steering reservoir of the system (This lid is still shown in the photo above with an arrow), and when it is open, take a syringe in your hands and put it deep in the reservoir and then collect all the waste liquid from the reservoir and pour it into the prepared capacity for this.
Note!
When you work with oil, that is, suck it out of the tank or fill in a new one, then in any case, close with rags or whatever, all the belts under which you will carry oil, because rubber does not like oil!
3) Now ask your assistant to get into the car, but only carefully if your car is on jacks and after it sits down, turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, and at that moment while he turns it, you are at this time watch the tank, waste oil should appear in it, you take this oil with a syringe and re-pour it into a prepared container.
4) Next, you will need to loosen the clamp that secures the oil return hose to the power steering reservoir (see photo 1), so when the clamp is loosened, disconnect this tank hose and lower it into a container to drain the used oil (see photo 2 ).
Note!
What else, if you still have liquid in the tank itself (for example, it was not drained to the end, although it is not necessary to do this), then be sure to close the hole to which the hose fits with your hand so that oil does not flow out onto the engine and does not stain it !
Filling:
2) After the oil has already stopped decreasing, let your assistant stop turning the steering wheel and start the car for literally 10 seconds, the oil after starting it will also begin to decrease, but you constantly monitor its level and add oil as it decreases so that it is up to the very top.
3) When the car has been running for 10 seconds, turn it off, and then ask the assistant to turn the steering wheel in the same way, while you control the oil level in the power steering reservoir.
Note!
4) Next, add oil again to the desired level, close the lid at the reservoir, sit in the car and then start the car, when the car starts to work, turn the steering wheel and check whether the power steering works as before or not, in fact, the steering wheel should rotate a little softer, hum and itching when turning it should also not be.
Additional video clip:
VIDEO
Power steering (GUR) installed in almost every modern car. The task of the power steering is to facilitate steering turns by pumping oil under high pressure. Heavy vehicles are very dependent on the power steering, without it it would be impossible to turn huge wheels while standing still.
Like any fluid used in a car, power steering oil requires replacement. In this article I will talk about how to change the oil in the power steering with your own hands on the Lada Priora ... According to generally accepted rules, the oil change in the power steering is carried out at least once every four to five years or after 80 yew. km. mileage. By the way, once I already wrote about how to change the oil in the hydraulic booster, but then it was about the VAZ 2115, but there are no special differences, the principle is the same.
Two jacks.
Syringe with hose.
Rag or cellophane to cover the belts.
Container for old oil.
1. The first step is to jack up the front end, this will simplify the task when you need to expel old oil from the system. To do this, use two jacks.
2. To pump oil out of the tank, take a syringe and put on it a hose of a suitable diameter (suitable from a washer or a medical “system”).
3. Then cover the belts with something (cellophane, rag.) So that oil does not get on them, rubber does not like this.
4. Start pumping oil into the prepared container.
5. When the oil is pumped out, ask the assistant to turn the steering wheel to the left / right as much as possible, with these movements, oil will appear in the tank again, your task is to immediately pump it out.
6. After that, disconnect the "return" hose and lower its end into some bottle, and turn the steering wheel again, the system will again expel the old oil.
7. After the oil is completely drained, reconnect the hose.
8. Pour new oil into the power steering system, you can top it up.
When the oil is poured, ask your friend to turn the steering wheel, and at this time continue to add oil as it decreases into the system.
After the oil has stopped decreasing, start the engine for 10-15 seconds. During operation, the oil will also decrease - top up again.
Turn off the engine, turn the steering wheel again 5-7 times in each direction until it stops, make sure that there are no air bubbles in the tank.
Add oil to the level if necessary.
Check the operation, for this start the engine and try to turn the steering wheel.There should be no hum or obstruction during rotation, the steering wheel should be soft and rotate without problems.
That's all, changing the power steering oil for Lada Priora - successfully completed! Now your task is to do all the steps yourself, I'm sure you will definitely be able to replace the power steering fluid on the Priora.
Would need : remove the front wheels and prepare the tools (head "13", wrench "15", box wrench "19", large slotted screwdriver, pliers, mounting blade and hammer).
In the passenger compartment, remove the lower part of the intermediate shaft from the splines of the pinion shaft:
Unscrew the nut of the fastening bolt using the head "13".
Pull out the bolt.
Release the terminal connection with a large slotted screwdriver.
Remove the lower section of the intermediate shaft from the splines of the pinion shaft.
To remove the Priora steering rack without steering rods disconnect the inner ends of the tie rods from the steering gear:
Remove the retaining plate for the bolts of the inner ends of the steering rods by hooking it up with a flat screwdriver.
Unscrew one bolt completely using a 15 ”spanner wrench and loosen the other bolt.
Swivel the connecting plate downward.
Remove steering rod. We remove the second steering rod after we unscrew the second bolt.
To remove the Priora steering rack together with the steering rods , you will have to disconnect the outer ends of the steering rods from the pivot arms of the shock absorber struts:
Unbend and then pull out the cotter pin with pliers.
Partially unscrew the nut securing the ball bolt using a 19 ”spanner wrench.
Press out the finger using a special puller. If not, then insert a mounting paddle between the pivot arm and the outer tip, and then hit the end of the pivot arm with a hammer.
Press out the ball joint pin all the way using a large slotted screwdriver.
Now, in order to pull out the steering rack with or without rods, you should:
Unscrew the two nuts securing the steering rack bracket to the bulkhead using the "13" head.
Remove the two brackets.
Remove the steering rack through the window in the left wheel arch, having previously moved it forward to remove the pinion shaft from the hole in the bulkhead.
Before mounting, check that the rail is in the middle position. To do this, using the sliding pliers for the flat on the pinion shaft, we rotate the shaft in either direction until it stops, after which we turn the shaft in the opposite direction two full turns and turn the shaft so that the flat on the shaft is located vertically on the right side along the direction of the car. Otherwise, the installation of the rail is carried out in the reverse order.
The steering rack of the Priora with the EUR is no different from the usual one, but the steering rack of the Priora with the power steering has a different catalog number (see the interchangeability of VAZ steering racks).
Lada Priora is a Russian-made car that is highly popular among our compatriots due to its low price and attractive appearance. However, even in spite of this, Lada Priora has one vulnerability associated with the poor quality of the road surface - the steering rack or, in the language of experts, the "power steering / EUR gearbox". Fortunately, you can pull it up with your own hands.
The first sign indicating the need to adjust the rack is the appearance of a knock when driving on small irregularities. The knocking will be felt especially clearly when driving on country roads. In this case, the driver will feel shocks and vibrations on the steering wheel, which will also be transmitted to the entire body of the car.
In addition, if the steering nut is loosened while driving on the highway, the car will "float" a little, and the driver will need additional steering, which will also immediately become noticeable.
Also, experts say that a tightening is necessary if the driver begins to notice the appearance of a clearly audible crunch in the area of the steering column, as well as an increase in the amplitude of the steering wheel revolution.
You should think about replacing the rail when tightening it does not in any way affect the behavior of the car on the road, and also does not help get rid of an unpleasant knock. A failed steering rack will cause a significant backlash in the steering wheel. Moreover, it can start to seize (this happens extremely rarely, but such cases are known). If the rail starts to jam, then it is better to refuse to operate the car, since this can lead to the most sad consequences.
You cannot do without a replacement even if, after tightening it, it was possible to get rid of knocks and vibrations, but they reappeared later.
To carry out the tightening, you will need the following tools:
Slotted screwdriver (in simple terms, "flat" screwdriver);
Wrench 13;
Special key 17, designed to adjust the steering rack.
For a more comfortable and quick work, it is recommended to drive the car into a special inspection pit or overpass, as well as use an assistant, whose role even a child can cope with.
To get to the reiki, it is worth performing a number of simple steps:
Disconnect the battery terminals and dismantle it;
Using a 13 wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the battery stand, and then remove it;
Directly under the steering rack using a slotted screwdriver, remove the small plug of the adjustment system.
After that, there will be access to the nut, which is responsible for adjusting the thermal gap in the rail.
Next, you need to slip your hand under the steering rack and try to put the key for the rack on the nut. It is necessary to tighten the nut clockwise, but since the rail itself is located as if in an inverted state, it may seem from the side that it is necessary to tighten the nut counterclockwise. Experts recommend tightening the nut at a time no more than 25-30 degrees, after which you need to try to rotate the steering wheel, which should rotate without jerking or biting.
It is also necessary to listen to the sounds coming from the steering wheel - if knocks disappeared during the steering wheel rotation, and there are no other noises, then the rail is tightened correctly, and you can put the battery and the rubber plug in place.
VIDEO
According to the statements of experienced auto mechanics, the process of tightening the steering rack on cars with EUR and GUR is practically the same, so this manual can be called universal.
It is worth noting that the complete replacement process is also identical in the case of power steering and power steering, with the exception of one point - in cars with power steering, before replacing the rack, it is necessary to drain the fluid from the power steering tank, and in cars with power steering, remove the terminals from the battery.
Full replacement and repair is a series of actions, for the implementation of which you need to have not only special knowledge, but also a considerable amount of free time, so if the car owner does not have either the first or the second, it is preferable to go to the nearest service station.
At the same time, in order not to become their regular guest, you should know some secrets for operating the steering rack, which can significantly extend its service life.
It is strongly not recommended to "jump" the car on the curbs, as well as drive around at high speed on the rails, since each such trip causes cracks on the rail itself, as well as deformation of the shaft, which is part of the steering mechanism.
It is not recommended to frequently unscrew the steering wheel all the way.Of course, in this case it will be very difficult to demonstrate your maneuvering capabilities, but this will significantly increase the life of one of the most important parts of the machine.
Carefully monitor the condition of the protective anthers, which must be sure to maintain their tightness. Replacing the anthers is several times cheaper than replacing the entire rail.
It is also worth monitoring the level and condition of the hydraulic fluid, since its decrease or color change is associated with the presence of problems in the hydraulic system of the car, which can result in a rail breakage.
From time to time, you need to undergo a full-fledged maintenance, which will allow you to eliminate in advance malfunctions that can cause irreversible consequences, injuring yourself, your loved ones and other road users. And also in case of identifying problems in the operation of the car, it is better not to risk it and go to the nearest car service as soon as possible.
In VAZ Priora cars, the electric power steering performs the function of providing easier vehicle control. With the help of the EUR, the driver can turn the steering wheel with one hand without any problems. What malfunctions are characteristic of the amplifier and how to replace the EUR in garage conditions - we will talk about this below.
In what cases is the steering rack, EUR and hydraulic booster disassembled and repaired, what is the amplifier connection diagram, what functions does the torque sensor perform?
First, let's look at the main system malfunctions, why it does not work and how to fix them:
Mechanical damage is checked only when the EUR as a whole does not function correctly, but there are no errors on the on-board computer display. To diagnose mechanical failures, turn the steering wheel in different directions until it stops while the engine is running. Of course, in this case, the car must be in one place. If you have to apply significantly more force than usual when turning the steering wheel, this indicates a malfunction in the system and a breakdown of one of the components. The same problem may indicate the failure of other components of the steering system.
For a more accurate determination of problems, a thorough functional check should be carried out. You will need to drive your Lada Priora onto an overpass, pit or lift, and then carefully diagnose all components of the chassis. It is necessary to check the racks, tie rods and other components, since there is a possibility that the amplifier itself is working, and the signs of malfunction are associated with other problems. To service an electric amplifier at home, you will have to completely disassemble the system, clean its components and reassemble it.
Diagram of pinout and designations of EUR contacts
The procedure for dismantling and installing a new electric amplifier can be done by hand, but for this you will need to prepare all the tools. To get the job done, you need two screwdrivers, one with a flat tip and the other with a Phillips screwdriver. You will also need a set of socket wrenches.
How to complete the DIY removal and installation task:
If you are faced with the need to repair an electric amplifier on your own, then the video below will allow you to complete this task without errors (video published by the CompsMaster channel).
A small half turn of the steering wheel and "Priora" smoothly fits into the next turn. The entire control system works like a clock. And the base of the front wheel steering system and the steering rack are also great. But sometimes she can present surprises, as well as any detail, on any machine. What it is for, how it is arranged, and how the Priora steering rack changes, this story will tell.
In cars with front-wheel drive, there is no way to install the classic, long-proven front-wheel steering system.This will not be done by the transverse installation of the motor and the power drives to the wheels. Therefore, the cumbersome system of levers was replaced by a steering rack. Its main task is to transfer power from the steering wheel to the swing arms.
To save space, this element of the Priora control system is located on the wall of the engine compartment. On the bulkhead between the engine and the Priora's cabin. The rack is connected to the steering column located in the passenger compartment.
This important "Priora" control unit is assembled from the following components.
The rail is movable.
Frame.
Splined shaft with bearing.
Metal body (casing).
Seals and oil seals.
Fasteners and accessories (bolts, nuts).
Springs.
Rubber cover of the mechanism.
The basis of this mechanism is a metal pin (rail), so to speak. There are teeth on one part of it. They mate with a steering shaft located at right angles to the bearing pin. This is, in fact, the worm gear known to everyone. The shaft rotates and moves, engaging with the teeth, the rack inside the casing. The protective casing has a special slot for connecting the ends of the steering rods. In the center of the pin (rail) there are special holes for lugs, which are connected to the rotating wheels through special levers.
Most often, the rubbing parts of this unit fail. It is quite simple to determine a breakdown or simply deterioration of the steering mechanism. This will be marked by the following signs:
The steering wheel is difficult to turn.
When entering a turn, a tapping and grinding sound is heard from the mechanism.
In motion, when using the steering wheel, sensitive shocks are transmitted from the steering wheel to the hands.
In general, the Priora's controllability deteriorates significantly.
Upon inspection, the foreman will determine the need to replace the "Priora" steering rack by visual inspection. Usually, he grabs the rod with his hand, and the partner turns the steering wheel. The master makes a verdict on excessive backlash and extraneous sounds.
This not particularly difficult but extremely important job is best done on a maintenance hoist. In extreme cases, in a wide inspection pit. But then the car must be positioned so that both wheels are removed.
So, the car is installed according to the conditions mentioned. The wheels are dismantled. You can start. First of all, put the steering wheel of the Priora car in the position - straight ahead. That is, the wheels are looking straight ahead. After that, it is advisable to fix the steering wheel.
This is done as follows, two bots are unscrewed by 17 holding the pressure plate. First, 1 is turned inside out, and the second is loosened. The thrust is moved to the side. Then the second one is removed, together with the plate and the other thrust is moved aside.
Now the mountings are removed directly to the steering rack. These are semicircular brackets with rubber seals. They are dressed on threaded rods in the Priora body and tightened with 13 nuts. It is most convenient to unscrew them with a head. After removing the nuts, the staples are removed. The removed device moves slightly towards itself. This is necessary for the worm gear to come out of the hole in the passenger compartment. Now you can remove the steering rack. For this, a technological window is provided in the Priora's left wing. You can carefully feed the edge of the knot into it and pull it out. Either for further disassembly and repair, or simply for replacement with a new copy.
Well, the second point. The fact is that at the factory, none of the components of this mechanism, except for the shaft bearing, are lubricated.It is imperative to remove the anthers and liberally lubricate the inner parts of the mechanism with solid oil or lithol through the side plugs.
Well, the repair of this device is a separate interesting topic.
A useful video on replacing this important Priora control unit:
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
