To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.
You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.
Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:
In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.
If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic:
VIDEO
A very helpful article! And although I have a Hyundai H1 4 × 4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. My Gur is stuck (most likely - the bearing). Disassembled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Wish I saw this article before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to put a wrench on the lower part of the fitting, and unscrew the upper one.
Very helpful article. I myself am now suffering with gur Ford EXP3 4.6. And howls and tight ... to sort out nodo ... There is already a mess in my head from studying and generally searching for information ....
In the stock in the car there was a power steering ... well, it would be better if it did not exist at all. The power steering gearbox was from the very first issue SHNKF 453465.100.
Problems with the power steering system were from the first day of owning a car ... the pump changed 3 times ... the power steering went over 1 time ... running ahead I will say that this gearbox did not work out before replacing it in only 2 weeks and flowed
There was an idea to buy this power steering kit from Avtodetalservice avtodetal.com/index.php?section=282
Well, since I didn't manage to buy everything at once ... I decided to take a more time-consuming and correct path.
I did not collect much of the following details:
1. A bu from the Volga 31105 was bought by the reducer of the power steering SHNKF 453461.103 link to those characteristics
2. Power steering pump bracket from the Autodetalservice kit
3. Power steering pump from a Chevrolet Niva car, part number by catalog 2123-3407012.
4. I bought a copper tube with a diameter of 13 mm, from which they bent an oily radiator for the power steering system
5. I made a pulley of the required diameter, since I could not find a finished one.
I also bought additional hoses, metal corrugation, copper washers, adapter, clamps ...
The purchased used power steering gearbox from the 105th Volga was sent for revision to the masters in the hydrolab in Moscow (my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3321/price1.shtml)
Came in this form from Moscow
Stage 1 Installation of the power steering radiator:
The radiator is fixed, the pipes are connected.
Stage 2 Preparing the pump for installation:
On the left is the pump from the Audi A6 to the right of the Chevrolet Niva ... this photo clearly shows that they are very similar. there are differences in the angles of the hoses ...
But when choosing a pump, I ran into a number of problems. Firstly, the stock pressure of the Belarusian pump is 90 bar, for the Audi and BMW 120 bar, for the Niva 104 bar. I did not dare to take a pump with such a high working pressure ... Secondly, the cost of a good pump exceeds UAH 3000, Chinese counterparts and other fakes are no better than a Russian pump, but more expensive ... As a result, I settled on a pump from a Chevrolet Niva part number by catalog 2123-3407012
To install this pump on the 406th motor, you need a bracket such as in the second photo from above.
The pump from the Chevrolet Niva is sold without a pulley. And the stock pulley from this car will not work for us, because it is of a larger diameter and for a 5-strand belt. It is necessary to order a pulley from a turner. It was not possible to find a ready-made one. I think that no one will sell it separately for analysis ... the new ones, judging by the Exist, prices from 300 UAH. The work on the manufacture of the pulley + materials cost 190 UAH.
And one more problem ... The bolt with which the high pressure pipe is screwed to the pump in the drain is 10 mm., And in the pump there is a hole for the bolt by 12 mm. An adapter from one thread to another is needed ... I managed to find one on the market ... but the thing is very rare ...
Pump complete with bracket, pulley and adapter ... ready-made design for installation on an internal combustion engine
Stage 3 Removing the gearbox and bipod from the gearbox,
When I removed the old gearbox ... you need to remove the bipod from it, which needs to be installed on the new gearbox ... those who have done this at least once will understand that this procedure is more complicated than the process of removing the gearbox itself.
To facilitate this process, one familiar volgovod in the bowels of the service station found a mega puller.
A puller that is larger than the gearbox itself. And even for them it was not easy to remove the bipod ...
Stage 4 Installing the power steering system back to the car:
When dismantling the power steering pump mounting bracket and installing a new one, it is necessary to unscrew the engine mount and raise the motor, otherwise it is not possible to unscrew one bolt of the bracket mounting. Well, after installing the pump, we return the engine to its place.
Then we pour high-quality oil into the system and pump it over ... I had such a foam in the tank for 10 minutes of engine operation.
Eventually:
The best part: the gearbox does not hiss, there is a feedback on the steering wheel ...
The power steering pump is installed from the Audi A4, but not the original, but an Italian analogue of production MSG catalog number VV001
But on XX, you can hear the pump humming 🙁
I am currently looking for solutions to this issue ... so wait for a new update.
We will repair the main unit of the power steering pump car control system.
Those who have already encountered car breakdowns know for sure that it will be a little costly to make repairs in service centers. Much easier than ever, the most important thing is to do it yourself. With a little knowledge and effort to this process. The inherent content of the material will allow you to get acquainted with an independent repair of the power steering pump. You can also carry out diagnostics to identify malfunctions in the operation of the pump itself.
The elements that make up the pump.
The most difficult dismantling is to release the pump from disconnecting the supply hoses with pipes and draining the hydraulic fluid. Initially, we loosen the belt or uncouple the gear drive, then unscrew it from the attachment to the engine block. We flush the housing from the accumulation of dirt.
Next, we disassemble the pump body itself, very carefully remembering this moment how everything is attached (or otherwise there will be a problem during assembly), then we thoroughly clean all the components from the inside from dirt.
With a detailed examination of the internal parts of the pump, we determine their working condition.
4. Uneven surface of the inner part of the cylinder (stator).
We examine the rotor, paying attention to the grooves: their edges should be smooth and sharp, without chips and notches.
Next, we look at the inner working surface of the stator, it often happens that its wear is the cause of problems with the power steering pump.
All that we may need in the upcoming work is this!
alcohol (best of all White Spirit, aka solvent gasoline or a can of WD40 liquid);
sandpaper (from P2000 to P1000);
cloth or soft paint brush;
small file or file;
electric drill;
We use sandpaper to clean the seats of the rotor blades.
Rotor cleaning is reduced to the elimination of irregularities and burrs of the grooves, as well as to grinding the rotor surface.
Gloved work is best as the edges of the rotor are very sharp; try to keep the movement smooth and even for a smoother finish.
The algorithm is as follows:
First, we make a rough cleaning with a file, then smooth it with coarse sandpaper and finish it with a sandpaper.
It is easier to adapt an electric drill using a drill and sandpaper. You will get a kind of mini-grinder by screwing sandpaper onto a drill with a diameter of at least 12 mm (against the movement of the drill rotation). When grinding with a self-made unit, you must try to evenly distribute the load over the entire surface, unnecessarily not zealous and not forgetting to change the skin from coarse to the finest.
Using a drill and sandpaper, we eliminate the unevenness of the stator surface.
After finishing with grinding, we will bring the power steering pump to its original working condition. Carrying out the assembly process in the reverse order, it will be useful to first check whether the shaft rotates easily inside the pump itself.
The final touch will be to install the cover in place, with the preliminary installation of a new gasket. During the assembly process, the cover is easily tightened with four bolts. It is best to pull them crosswise, thereby achieving an even, accurate fit of the cover plane to the stator.
Now the pump is now again in a new state. Nevertheless, it will take a long time before you will have to repeat this procedure again!
Watch a video lesson of self-repair of the power steering pump.
Watch a video lesson how the power steering system works.
Repairing the power steering is a difficult task, and the work is painstaking. The article is intended for those motorists who are familiar with the structure of the main systems of the car.
Many probably know how to remove the power steering from the car and install it back at the end of the work. Where do you start?
1. Clean the dirt from the power steering so that it does not end up in the cavities of the unit when the hoses are disconnected.
2. Pump out as much fluid from the pump reservoir as possible (preferably more).
3. Taking the hexagon "6", unscrew the steering shaft coupling screws from the bottom of the machine. Do not forget to mark its position with the roll relative to the power steering shaft before doing this.
4. Slide the elastic sleeve off the slots using a pry bar.
5. Disconnect the tie rods from the bipod with a puller.
6. Unscrew the car and remove the left front wheel.
7. Taking the socket wrench to "15", loosen from the side of the wheel arch three bolts securing the hydraulic booster to the side member, removing two of them.
8. Place a container under the hose fittings and disconnect them one by one to glass the liquid.
9. Seal the hoses and fittings at least with a rag.
10. Holding the hydraulic booster under the machine with one hand, unscrew the remaining bolt and do not drop the gearbox on your foot.
11. Before disassembling the gearbox, wash it thoroughly.
VIDEO
Many experts strongly recommend re-reading the articles on power steering specifically for your car.Some hydraulic boosters are disassembled almost completely, with the exception of the pair "ball nut - steering shaft screw", others - it is better not to touch. Although even if you accidentally unscrew the screw from the nut, and the balls fell into the cavity of the gearbox, just do not lose them.
Steps for repairing the power steering:
1. To disassemble the part, take a very strong hexagon at “6”, as well as a regular old tray, into which ATF will start to merge.
2. First remove the plugs from the fitting and lift the power steering over the bucket, rotating the bipod to drain the liquid.
3. Next, remove the bipod shaft and unscrew the four bolts set on the fixing mastic, and therefore it is rather difficult to unscrew.
4. Unscrew the adjusting screw locknut, and then, turning the screw, screw it into the gearbox to push the shaft along with the gearbox cover and bipod.
5. If you do not need to eliminate the backlash of the bipod shaft or replace the collar, then this bipod can be left alone and not removed. Unscrew the check valve plug.
6. Remove the spring and shake out the valve.
7. Unscrew the cover bolts and, carefully turning the shaft, make sure that it slightly pushes the cover out of the body. Be careful not to unscrew the shaft from the ball nut.
8. Pry up the formed gap and pull the shaft together with the cover and the piston out of the gearbox.
9. Remove the ball nut by unscrewing the shaft and collecting the balls.
10. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the bearing.
11. Remove the nut housing and bearings from the piston housing. Next, disassemble the nut by bending the bolt lock. Unscrew them, remove the bracket, as well as both parts of the ball duct channel.
12. We are looking for the cause of the breakdown. There can be several reasons for the power steering backlash: the gaps in the shaft-ball nut pair, in the shaft bearing unit (in the cover), as well as in the ball nut bearing unit in the piston housing itself.
13. Adjust clearances. They were formed, by the way, due to the banal weakening of the threaded connections that hold the bearing assemblies. If a backlash is found in the shaft-cap assembly, then release the locknut and tighten it so that the backlash disappears, but without fanaticism. Do not forget to carry out the "operation" clean, that is, the cleaned part should shine.
If you are doing this work for the first time, then do not be lazy to get detailed drawings of the power steering or take sheets of paper and put each spare part on a separate piece of paper, putting a number on it. It is ideal to work at a large table. So you will definitely not lose anything and collect the power steering without mistakes, but they do not joke with the steering wheel, because this is your safety on the road, as well as your loved ones.
14. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order, remembering to lubricate the parts with ATFkoy.
Good luck, motorists, in repairing the power steering!
VIDEO
In the stock in the car there was a power steering ... well, it would be better if it did not exist at all. The power steering gearbox was from the very first issue SHNKF 453465.100.
Problems with the power steering system were from the first day of owning a car ... the pump changed 3 times ... the power steering went over 1 time ... running ahead I will say that this gearbox did not work out before replacing it in only 2 weeks and flowed
There was an idea to buy this power steering kit from Avtodetalservice avtodetal.com/index.php?section=282
Well, since I didn't manage to buy everything at once ... I decided to take a more time-consuming and correct path.
I did not collect much of the following details:
1. A bu from the Volga 31105 was bought by the reducer of the power steering SHNKF 453461.103 link to those characteristics
2. Power steering pump bracket from the Autodetalservice kit
3. Power steering pump from a Chevrolet Niva car, part number by catalog 2123-3407012.
4. I bought a copper tube with a diameter of 13 mm, from which they bent an oily radiator for the power steering system
5. I made a pulley of the required diameter, since I could not find a finished one.
I also bought additional hoses, metal corrugation, copper washers, adapter, clamps ...
The purchased used power steering gearbox from the 105th Volga was sent for revision to the masters in the hydrolab in g.Moscow (my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3321/price1.shtml)
Came in this form from Moscow
Stage 1 Installation of the power steering radiator:
The radiator is fixed, the pipes are connected.
Stage 2 Preparing the pump for installation:
On the left is the pump from the Audi A6 to the right of the Chevrolet Niva ... this photo clearly shows that they are very similar. there are differences in the angles of the hoses ...
But when choosing a pump, I ran into a number of problems. Firstly, the stock pressure of the Belarusian pump is 90 bar, for the Audi and BMW 120 bar, for the Niva 104 bar. I did not dare to take a pump with such a high working pressure ... Secondly, the cost of a good pump exceeds UAH 3000, Chinese counterparts and other fakes are no better than a Russian pump, but more expensive ... As a result, I settled on a pump from a Chevrolet Niva part number by catalog 2123-3407012
To install this pump on the 406th motor, you need a bracket such as in the second photo from above.
The pump from the Chevrolet Niva is sold without a pulley. And the stock pulley from this car will not work for us, because it is of a larger diameter and for a 5-strand belt. It is necessary to order a pulley from a turner. It was not possible to find a ready-made one. I think that no one will sell it separately for analysis ... the new ones, judging by the Exist, prices from 300 UAH. The work on the manufacture of the pulley + materials cost 190 UAH.
And one more problem ... The bolt with which the high pressure pipe is screwed to the pump in the drain is 10 mm., And in the pump there is a hole for the bolt by 12 mm. An adapter from one thread to another is needed ... I managed to find one on the market ... but the thing is very rare ...
Pump complete with bracket, pulley and adapter ... ready-made design for installation on an internal combustion engine
Stage 3 Removing the gearbox and bipod from the gearbox,
When I removed the old gearbox ... you need to remove the bipod from it, which needs to be installed on the new gearbox ... those who have done this at least once will understand that this procedure is more complicated than the process of removing the gearbox itself.
To facilitate this process, one familiar volgovod in the bowels of the service station found a mega puller.
A puller that is larger than the gearbox itself. And even for them it was not easy to remove the bipod ...
Stage 4 Installing the power steering system back to the car:
When dismantling the power steering pump mounting bracket and installing a new one, it is necessary to unscrew the engine mount and raise the motor, otherwise it is not possible to unscrew one bolt of the bracket mounting. Well, after installing the pump, we return the engine to its place.
Then we pour high-quality oil into the system and pump it over ... I had such a foam in the tank for 10 minutes of engine operation.
Eventually:
The best part: the gearbox does not hiss, there is a feedback on the steering wheel ...
The power steering pump is installed from the Audi A4, but not the original, but an Italian analogue of production MSG catalog number VV001
But on XX, you can hear the pump humming
I am currently looking for solutions to this issue ... so wait for a new update.
The power steering pump is removed for replacement or repair.
Defects of the hydraulic steering pump:
- wear of the pump bearings (constant noise from the pump side);
- the flow and safety valve do not work due to contamination (there is an increased pressure in the system);
- fluid flow through the technological holes in the pump casing (the plugs have been squeezed out);
- fluid leaks from under the pump covers.
If the steering wheel turns hard to either side, the pump is defective.
Pumps can be supplied as spare parts with hose fittings or without fittings.
1. Lift and support the front of the car.
2. Remove the engine mudguard
3. We drain the fluid from the power steering system (see the article - Changing the oil in the GAZ-2705 power steering
4. Remove the accessory drive belt (see the article - Replacing the accessory drive belt
5. We loosen the tightening of the clamp of the upper pump hose
6. Disconnect the upper hose
7. We unscrew the nut of the fitting of the lower hose, holding the nut with the second wrench
8. Move the hose away from the pump.
9. Remove the two bolts securing the pump
11. If you need to remove the bracket, then unscrew the three bolts of its fastening
Install the pump and all removed parts in reverse order
After installation, we fill the system with hydraulic fluid and pump the system.
One very annoying nuisance can upset any car enthusiast - this is the breakdown of a device such as a power steering. The first signs of a malfunction - the steering became very tight, there was a strange hum when cornering. Also, with a detailed examination, you can find leaks on the system nodes, along with a simultaneous drop in the liquid level in the power steering tank.
The steering booster can break for a number of reasons. Let's list them:
in case of temperature changes, especially in winter, under load during sharp turns, the oil seal can be squeezed out, therefore, it is impossible to leave the car overnight with turned out wheels in winter;
also, due to low temperatures under pressure, one of the system hoses may leak;
untimely replacement of the power steering fluid, or filling the wrong fluid sometimes lead to serious damage to the system pump.
VIDEO
Next, we will study in detail how to repair the power steering on your car. Let's take a few famous cars as an example.
Often, motorists have to repair the power steering pump. They are faced with this, because, for example, they do not monitor the fluid level in the power steering reservoir in time.
Consider how to repair the power steering system pump with your own hands. For the benchmark, let's take a car like a Mercedes.
wrenches;
screwdrivers;
cleaning auto chemistry.
We unscrew the fastenings of the pump pulley, dismantle the pulley.
We dismantle the low and high pressure pipes from the assembly, drain the liquid.
Having unscrewed two fasteners of the bracket, dismantle the pump. If it is covered with oily deposits, the packing is obviously worn out.
We clean the body of the removed assembly.
Having unscrewed the bolts, dismantle the front cover.
In the course of repairing this pump, we will dismember it.
We take out the retaining ring without losing the rotor petals, and also remove the rotor from the shaft.
We take out the shaft and clean it.
We remove the oil seal, replace it with a new one.
At the rear of the pump, dismantle the float level, take out the filter, and clean it.
Replace the tank lid gasket.
We assemble in the reverse order.
This part of Mercedes power steering repair is the most important. We order a repair kit with an oil seal from the sellers according to the pump number.
Perhaps the car enthusiast had a chance to repair the power steering pump of the Passat B3. Then you need to act in a similar way. To dismantle the pulley, you can use a special puller here.And the repair kit is also selected according to the identification number of the pump.
Also read about replacing lamps in Priora fog lights and Opel Astra coolant temperature sensor.
VIDEO We cut the hose, substitute the container, cut off a centimeter of the defective area.
We insert the copper tube inside both ends of the hose.
We tighten with clamps.
Add power steering fluid.
Here is such a simple sequence can be applied when repairing the hoses of the power steering system.
The power steering system has long been used on all foreign cars. Domestic cars are no exception. For example, the Volga GAZ 3110 has this unit. We will figure out how to repair the hydraulic booster of a GAZ 3110.
For work we need:
wrenches;
universal puller;
screwdrivers;
detergent for a car engine;
rags, brush.
We jack up the car, remove the wheel.
We dismantle the bipod from the gearbox using a puller.
Having unscrewed the fittings, we drain the liquid from both lines.
Disconnect the steering column gimbal.
Having unscrewed the fasteners, we dismantle the gearbox.
We thoroughly rinse its body.
We unscrew the nut for adjusting the backlash and fastening the cover.
We unscrew the adjusting screw, remove the cover.
Next, dismantle the piston shaft cover, draining the remaining oil.
We remove the piston and bipod shaft.
We replace the frequently failing upper shaft seal.
On the other hand, we replace the lower oil seal.
We change the shaft rings.
We change the piston shaft oil seal.
We make the assembly, moving backward step by step.
Here, when ordering a repair kit from sellers, you must also be careful with the marking of the gearbox.
Interestingly, the hydraulic booster mechanism appeared on domestic machines back in the days of the Soviet Union. More specifically, the described device was used on the ZIL-130 for military purposes.
Further, for the sake of interest, we will consider the repair of the power steering, the repair of the power steering of the ZIL-130. We need these things:
set of wrenches;
screwdrivers;
puller;
hammer;
cleaning agent.
We unscrew the nut, then remove the bipod with a puller.
We unscrew the plug with a magnet, pour out all the oil.
Disconnect the hoses, drain the remaining liquid.
Having unpinned, unscrewing the nut and knocking out the wedge, disconnect the steering shaft universal joint.
Having unscrewed the bolts, we remove the mechanism crankcase from the car.
We thoroughly clean the body of the device.
We dismantle the side and top covers by unscrewing the fasteners.
Unscrewing the bolts, we take out the control valve body together with the piston rack.
Installing a new part.
We assemble in the reverse order.
It should be noted here that on more powerful trucks, even tractors, a similar type of amplification device is installed. Therefore, when repairing hydraulic boosters, for example, Kamaz, you can act according to the above scenario.
The same goes for the well-known domestic SUV. On UAZ Hunter, you can repair the power steering, based on the instructions given.
And when repairing the power steering of a T40 tractor with your own hands, you must remember that when disassembling the piston, you need to proceed as follows.
We sink the rear nut pin.
We unscrew the nut, remove it together with the spring washer.
We push out the screw of the mechanism.
We remove the spool with stops and springs.
All these works are carried out, of course, already on the removed assembly. And its complete dismantling from the tractor is carried out according to instructions similar to the one just described for the ZIL-130 truck.In general, the T40 power steering is designed in a similar way to the mechanisms described earlier, so repairing it based on previous descriptions should not cause any particular problems.
Video (click to play).
After all of the above, it may seem that it is quite difficult to repair the power steering with your own hands. This is indeed the case. Consequently, motorists more often turn to the repair station foremen with this problem.
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
