The next problem of power steering is pumping equipment.
You can try to sort out this element, but quite often it becomes easier to buy a repair kit for the power steering pump, the cost of which ranges from 4,000 to 50,000 rubles, depending on the make and model of your car.
Whether you are using a new pump or looking to repair an old one, this element has yet to be reached.To do this, you will need:
It will also not be superfluous to prepare a working workbench so that you can safely disassemble the pump on it. It is better to immediately spread cardboard or polyethylene for this. Next, let's get to work, for this:
If you just change the power steering pump to a new one, then the work will be much less, but in order to save money, you can try to extend the "life" of the old pump unit.
If you want to purchase a new pump, it is better to give preference to vane (vane) models. They are most popular today due to their long service life and excellent performance.
Also, the reason for the breakdown of the power steering can be associated with the ingress of air into the system. To remove air bubbles in this case, it is necessary to use specialized equipment, which not every car owner can boast of. Therefore, in this case, it will be cheaper to contact a car service.
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We have considered possible damage to the power steering, which you can fix yourself. If you have not performed such work before, be sure to read the recommendations of the manufacturer of your car and follow the instructions. In order to facilitate the assembly of the power steering, it is better to prepare a drawing of the power steering, on which all its elements will be marked. Laying out each detail on a separate numbered piece of paper, you will not get confused. Remember, the power steering system is directly responsible for the handling of the car, and, accordingly, for the lives of passengers.
We will repair the main unit of the power steering pump car control system.
Those who have already encountered car breakdowns know for sure that it will be a little costly to make repairs in service centers. Much easier than ever, the most important thing is to do it yourself. With a little knowledge and effort to this process. The inherent content of the material will allow you to get acquainted with an independent repair of the power steering pump. You can also carry out diagnostics to identify malfunctions in the operation of the pump itself.
The elements that make up the pump.
The most difficult dismantling is to release the pump from disconnecting the supply hoses with pipes and draining the hydraulic fluid. Initially, we loosen the belt or uncouple the gear drive, then unscrew it from the attachment to the engine block. We flush the housing from the accumulation of dirt.
Next, we disassemble the pump body itself, very carefully remembering this moment how everything is attached (or otherwise there will be a problem during assembly), then we thoroughly clean all the components from the inside from dirt.
With a detailed examination of the internal parts of the pump, we determine their working condition.
4. Uneven surface of the inner part of the cylinder (stator).
We examine the rotor, paying attention to the grooves: their edges should be smooth and sharp, without chips and notches.
Next, we look at the inner working surface of the stator, it often happens that its wear is the cause of problems with the power steering pump.
All that we may need in the upcoming work is this!
alcohol (best of all White Spirit, aka solvent gasoline or a can of WD40 liquid);
sandpaper (from P2000 to P1000);
cloth or soft paint brush;
small file or file;
electric drill;
We use sandpaper to clean the seats of the rotor blades.
Rotor cleaning is reduced to the elimination of irregularities and burrs of the grooves, as well as to grinding the rotor surface.
Gloved work is best as the edges of the rotor are very sharp; try to keep the movement smooth and even for a smoother finish. There is no consensus on how to grind the inner surface of the stator; if you have enough patience and time, you can try manual leveling.
The algorithm is as follows:
First, we make a rough cleaning with a file, then smooth it with coarse sandpaper and finish it with a sandpaper.
It is easier to adapt an electric drill using a drill and sandpaper. You will get a kind of mini-grinder by screwing sandpaper onto a drill with a diameter of at least 12 mm (against the movement of the drill rotation). When grinding with a self-made unit, you must try to evenly distribute the load over the entire surface, unnecessarily not zealous and not forgetting to change the skin from coarse to the finest.
Using a drill and sandpaper, we eliminate the unevenness of the stator surface.
Having finished with grinding, we will bring the power steering pump to its original working condition. Carrying out the assembly process in the reverse order, it will be useful to first check whether the shaft rotates easily inside the pump itself.
The final touch will be to install the cover in place, with the preliminary installation of a new gasket. During the assembly process, the cover is easily tightened with four bolts. It is best to pull them crosswise, thereby achieving an even, accurate fit of the cover plane to the stator.
The pump now has a new state again. Nevertheless, it will take a long time before you have to repeat this procedure again!
Watch a video lesson of self-repair of the power steering pump.
Watch a video lesson how the power steering system works.
I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.
The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in the summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there.In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite ideal, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!
In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.
And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.
After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...
Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.
All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.
We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.
Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.
We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.
The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.
We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.
For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.
Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.
The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.
Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.
Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).
Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.
The desired result is obtained,
now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.
After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.
Repairing the power steering is a difficult task, and the work is painstaking. The article is intended for those motorists who are familiar with the structure of the main systems of the car.
Many probably know how to remove the power steering from the car and install it back at the end of the work. Where do you start?
1. Clean the dirt from the power steering so that it does not end up in the cavities of the unit when the hoses are disconnected.
2. Pump out as much fluid from the pump reservoir as possible (preferably more).
3. Taking the hexagon "6", unscrew the steering shaft coupling screws from the bottom of the machine. Do not forget to mark its position with the roll relative to the power steering shaft before doing this.
4. Slide the elastic sleeve off the slots using a pry bar.
5. Disconnect the tie rods from the bipod with a puller.
6. Unscrew the car and remove the left front wheel.
7. Taking the socket wrench to "15", loosen from the side of the wheel arch three bolts securing the hydraulic booster to the side member, removing two of them.
8. Place a container under the hose fittings and disconnect them one by one to glass the liquid.
9. Seal the hoses and fittings at least with a rag.
10. Holding the hydraulic booster under the machine with one hand, unscrew the remaining bolt and do not drop the gearbox on your foot.
11. Before disassembling the gearbox, wash it thoroughly.
VIDEO
Many experts strongly recommend re-reading the articles on power steering specifically for your car. Some hydraulic boosters are disassembled almost completely, with the exception of the pair "ball nut - steering shaft screw", others - it is better not to touch. Although even if you accidentally unscrew the screw from the nut, and the balls fell into the cavity of the gearbox, just do not lose them.
Steps for repairing the power steering:
1. To disassemble the part, take a very strong hexagon at "6", as well as a regular old tray, into which ATF will start to merge.
2. First remove the plugs from the fitting and lift the power steering over the bucket, rotating the bipod to drain the liquid.
3. Next, remove the bipod shaft and unscrew the four bolts set on the fixing mastic, and therefore it is rather difficult to unscrew.
4. Unscrew the adjusting screw locknut, and then, turning the screw, screw it into the gearbox to push the shaft along with the gearbox cover and bipod.
5. If you do not need to eliminate the backlash of the bipod shaft or replace the collar, then this bipod can be left alone and not removed. Unscrew the check valve plug.
6. Remove the spring and shake out the valve.
7. Unscrew the cover bolts and, carefully turning the shaft, make sure that it slightly pushes the cover out of the body. Be careful not to unscrew the shaft from the ball nut.
8. Pry up the formed gap and pull the shaft together with the cover and the piston out of the gearbox.
9. Remove the ball nut by unscrewing the shaft and collecting the balls.
10. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the bearing.
11. Remove the nut housing and bearings from the piston housing. Next, disassemble the nut by bending the bolt lock. Unscrew them, remove the bracket, as well as both parts of the ball duct channel.
12. We are looking for the cause of the breakdown. There can be several reasons for the power steering backlash: the gaps in the shaft-ball nut pair, in the shaft bearing unit (in the cover), as well as in the ball nut bearing unit in the piston housing itself.
13. Adjust clearances. They were formed, by the way, due to the banal weakening of the threaded connections that hold the bearing assemblies. If a backlash is found in the shaft-cap assembly, then release the locknut and tighten it so that the backlash disappears, but without fanaticism.Do not forget to carry out the "operation" clean, that is, the cleaned part should shine.
If you are doing this work for the first time, then do not be lazy to get detailed drawings of the power steering or take sheets of paper and put each spare part on a separate piece of paper, putting a number on it. It is ideal to work at a large table. So you will definitely not lose anything and collect the power steering without mistakes, but they don’t joke with the steering wheel, because this is your safety on the road, as well as your loved ones.
14. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order, remembering to lubricate the parts with ATFkoy.
Good luck, motorists, in repairing the power steering!
VIDEO
To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a power steering is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.
The power steering is intended not only to make it easier for the driver to control the machine when maneuvering on the road, but also to soften the impact of bumps and damaged road surfaces. It is especially important that the hydraulic booster significantly reduces the likelihood of an accident in the event of a tire rupture, primarily on the front wheels. Power steering is a closed hydraulic system, which includes:
a tank into which hydraulic fluid is filled;
pressure regulator;
control spool;
pump;
power cylinder.
The main unit of the power steering construction is the pump. It ensures the pumping of liquid from the tank into the pipelines and its further movement under high pressure along the ring. The type of mechanisms used are vane or plate aggregates. They have a sufficient level of efficiency and little wear on the working surfaces. At the same time, they have a weak link, bearing failure is possible, which requires repair of the power steering pump. The working pressure in pumps of this type, intended for the power steering system, is high, up to a maximum of 150 bar. Such a unit is driven by a belt that simultaneously turns the generator and the pump. The clearances set at the factory during assembly should be kept between 0.005-0.01 mm. If the clearance increases and exceeds the allowable by 0.01 mm, then a drop in pressure in the system at low revs is possible, this is felt on the steering wheel as an increase in load or in the language of professionals - a "tight" steering wheel.
It is believed that the lamellar unit is a durable mechanism, however, if violations of its operation are allowed, then various emergencies may occur. Failure of the power steering pump unit is possible for several reasons, such as:
fluid leakage and lowering of its level in the tank and pipelines;
the working fluid does not change for a long time, and a material that does not correspond to the instructions for this unit is used;
ingress of impurities into the system;
lack of fluid movement and possible overheating of the hydraulic unit.
To prevent such situations, it is necessary to monitor the liquid level in the tank on a weekly basis, as well as check the connections and pipelines for leaks.
Failure of the power steering pump is determined quite simply. These signs are immediately determined by the car owner.
At low or idle speeds, the steering wheel experiences increased efforts when turning the wheels in comparison with normal driving. With an increase in engine speed, the efforts disappear.
When the steering shaft rotates, an unpleasant extraneous sound is generated.
A characteristic leakage of working fluid is detected through its stains on engine parts or road surfaces.
Bearing whistle appears. When the belt is removed and the pump shaft wiggles, play is detected.
When such signs appear, the driver must conduct an external inspection of the entire power steering system and decide whether the power steering pump needs repair, or whether other parts of this structure need to be dealt with.
You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.
Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:
you need a key for "12", as well as heads for "14" and "24";
you will need a snap ring puller;
prepare in advance two copper washers, a gasket for the rear casing, two O-rings and an oil seal, they can be replaced by a power steering pump repair kit;
be sure to have a bearing marked "6202" and an outer diameter of 35 mm;
to pump oil out of the tank, you need a large syringe and a container;
clean the workbench and cover it with clean cardboard to disassemble the pump;
prepare fine sandpaper and a cleaning cloth.
In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.
Slightly loosen the axle bolt that secures the pump unit to the bracket using the hole in the pulley. Loosen the tensioner retaining nut completely and remove the belt.
Using a syringe, pump out the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel right and left until it stops so that the oil is completely out of the system, do this several times to completely clean the pipelines.
Loosen the clamp on the hose that runs from the expansion tank and remove this line.
Remove the bolt that secures the high pressure hose from the pump to the system.
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
Pull the released power steering pump unit up and put it in a specially prepared place. Remove dirt and oil from the unit housing.
Remove the bearing retaining ring with a puller.
Remove the rear cover mounting bolts. Gently pry it off with a small screwdriver and remove it, making sure that the rotor blades do not fall out of the housing.
Take out the blades and put them on pre-prepared numbered pieces of paper so as not to confuse anything during assembly. Attention! Remember the position of the assembled blades. When installed in a housing, the rounded part of these blades must be turned outward.
Remove the plate and all parts underneath.
Drive out the shaft by tapping gently with a screwdriver.
Press the bearing off the pump shaft.
Change the unusable bearing for a previously prepared one.
Check the parts of the pump set for defects and wear. Clean surfaces from dirt and roughness. Experts say - simple cleaning of internal parts reduces gaps and allows you to extend the operation of this unit without replacing any parts.
Reassemble in reverse order. It is imperative to change the oil seal, O-rings and washers for new ones prepared in advance.
If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one.This will significantly reduce the repair time.
Also watch a video on the topic:
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Video (click to play).
VIDEO