Do-it-yourself gur tuareg repair

Information applicable for car repairs:

Volkswagen Sharan (7M8) 1995 - 2001
Volkswagen Sharan (7M9) 2001 - 2004
Volkswagen Sharan (7M6) 2004 - 2010

SEAT Alhambra (7V8) 1996 - 2000
SEAT Alhambra (7V9) 2001 - 2011
SEAT Alhambra (710) 2011 - 2015

Everyone has a huge KU.
As I took the car, my power steering pump was leaking.

I was preparing for repairs, looking at suitable topics on the forum. I figured out how to get to the oil seal. It turned out that a ZF pump was installed, it is only mentioned, there is a repair of the ZF rail, a photo of a new ZF from Shniva. in a word on the ZF pump, what oil seals and bearings are needed, I did not find anything (am I wrong? Did I look badly?) everywhere there are reports on TRW pumps.
A friend on a Ford Galaxy howled very much, stood also ZF, went over (some experience appeared) from him because of the development on an ellipse in these places, he howled

in general, he needs a replacement, but we just turned this part over (by the way, you can't do this on TRW, there the channels and the part are asymmetrical) as a result, the howl became much smaller, it used to howl in a straight line, just start turning the steering wheel, now howl only when the wheels come to the extreme position.
I began to sort out myself. It did not howl, it worked silently, but it leaked, as it turned out later, it washed out all the grease from the bearing.
I'll start in order. I loosened the pump pulley bolts, with the belt tensioned, and only then loosened and removed the belt.
Before disconnecting the hoses, the inlet pinched it with such a self-made crap (like that, for a long time already, in 5 minutes I made it ..)

substituted the dishes, disconnected the inlet hose, it poured out of the pump and this hose is so much slurry

almost no slurry came out of the high-pressure hose

I removed it together with the bracket (3 bolts), the pump was attached to the bracket with 5 bolts.

We unscrew 5 bolts of the back cover, here I will note that there is a needle bearing in the back cover, the cover can be removed easily, and then you need to pay attention to where to fall out (not all of them, of course) I counted 13 of them.

I took out a part with an ellipse, it has a groove on the outside in the middle and on the edge, facing down.

Before removing the rotor, I put on a rubber ring so as not to lose the petals,

The rotor was removed, I was not going to disassemble it further. there was one more detail inside, it jumped out by itself in the process of driving the bush

I had to make an adaptation to remove the flange (it took about 30 minutes)

The bearing did not change, it is in excellent condition there is no backlash in it (tangible). He began to knock out the bearing. When they knocked out the kent earlier, there were no problems - it came out normally, I had to knock it out very hard through a brass drift, hitting the shaft from the side of the back cover, when I felt that the bearing went, at that moment the cheto fell, rang. I had a shock, it turned out that there was no retaining ring and the bearing was rolled, and when knocking out, the rolling broke off

It broke off in general successfully, of course, the bearing slid down the shaft and returned it to its place, you can see where it was from the shaft. Conclusion: for these ZFs, before removing the bearing, it is better to roll or grind or cut, bend it like on a steel product does not work out - aluminum.
The only thing you need to do is to lock the bearing, I decided to do this (photo below)
Then I opened the bearing, I didn’t wash it, didn’t wipe it, as it was confirmed, even there were no traces of grease left, I washed everything.

Now I got to the oil seal, but did not knock it out yet, suddenly some kind of ambush awaits it with its acquisition, I measured it and got a figure of 33mm in bore diameter, the shaft is 19 mm, and cheto ochkanul (19X33). Damn, I went to look for an oil seal, everywhere they offer 19X36 mm (for TRW),. I found it!
He knocked out the old oil seal, by itself he already had a kirdyk. I put it - it doesn't fit. It turned out that I measured the lead-in chamfer 33mm, now I need an oil seal 19X32X7X8 Found it without problems

I inserted the gland first with my fingers, pressed it as much as I could, then brought it by tapping through a thick tube, it is possible with a suitable head.
I assembled the needle bearing in the back cover, shook out all the needles (I already mentioned 13 pieces), put a little in the lithol holder and put them there one needle at a time, then straightened them with a shaft, now they will not fall out when the cover is installed.

Now you can start assembling. The bearing stood up like this, with a broken seal, the flange was also in its place, I measured it before removing it with a barbell (between the outer plane of the flange, through the hole, to the end of the pump casing 23.4 mm)

There was also a bearing boot, such a black plastic, tightly fitting on the shaft and fit well into the protruding rolling, after the rolling fell off, I did not put it on, because still it was necessary to fix some kind of stopper for the bearing.
put the giblets in place, inserted the lid without any problems. That's it, the pump is assembled.

This article describes the Tuareg steering rack, namely, its design, causes of malfunction, diagnosis and repair of Tuareg.

The steering rack is the key control element of the car, transmitting the trajectory and steering effort to the steering wheels. This effect is achieved due to an effective and reliable design, developed at the dawn of the automotive industry.

What does the Tuareg steering rack consist of?

1. Carter. A hollow cylinder with a rack-shaft, bearings, stops inside.
2. Springs. Ensure a snug fit of the steering rack teeth to the gear.
3. Gears, toothed bar. They transfer the power from the steering wheel to the wheels.
4. Limiters. Limit the possible turn of the steering wheel.
5. Bearings. Provide ease of turning the rack.
6. Steering rods, tips. Located outside the crankcase, they are used to turn the wheels.

If you are driving on a tricky road and the steering wheel is shaking in your hands, like someone who has just read a couple of scary stories. If a knock is constantly heard in the car, mainly in the left front part. If the steering wheel no longer obeys (rotates arbitrarily, returns poorly to the center position when exiting a turn, or does not return at all; does not require effort when rotating). Or, conversely, the car has become overly sensitive. All this suggests that the steering rack of your car needs diagnosis and repair. What could have happened?

The main reason for breakdowns and malfunctions of the steering rack is uneven road. Moreover, it is not covered with large pits and potholes, but has many minor irregularities.

The second reason is the human factor. The driver, carelessly driving through small obstacles, creates an additional load on the rail parts, which will provoke the following breakdowns and the need to repair the Tuareg rail:

• The cracker is worn out - a part that restricts the free movement of the shaft-rack. First of all, plastic parts are subject to this.
• The outer sleeve is worn out - the part that holds the shaft-rail on the other side. This malfunction also depends on the quality of the sleeve.
• The central tooth of the rack shaft is damaged. Since the car often drives in a straight line, when all the load falls on this part, the problem will arise anyway. Usually the central tooth wears out after 150 thousand kilometers.

This is not a complete list of troubles that can occur with the Volkswagen Tuareg steering rack.

In order to make a complete diagnosis of the steering rack, the part will have to be disassembled. An indiscriminate assessment of the degree of wear and the cause of malfunctions can only be superficially. To diagnose the Volkswagen steering rack, you need to do the following:

1. Drive the car into the inspection pit.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Feel the important parts of the mechanism by hand while the steering wheel is making frequent reciprocating movements.

Some driving problems can be solved by adjusting the steering rack mechanism.

To do this, you need to securely fix the car with the wheels straight.

Then measure the idler wheel play.

Find the adjusting screw, tighten it.

Constantly check for play, steering wheel travel and knocking.

But all these actions may not solve the problem!

Car service technicians will perform the following manipulations with the Volkswagen steering rack:

• Carefully disassemble the steering rack.
• They will find the cause of the breakdown and repair or replace the part.
• Before assembly, clean and degrease the components of the mechanism.
• They will lubricate the interacting parts.
  They will reassemble.
• And what is very important - they will give a guarantee for the performed repair of the Volkswagen Tuareg steering rack!

In order to avoid control problems for as long as possible, and the ride remains comfortable and safe, motorists recommend observing the following rules.

1. Try to drive as smoothly as possible.
2. Use caution when driving on rough roads.
3. Warm up the engine in winter, turn the steering wheel, gently shaking it. This will heat up the oil in the power steering.

And to make an accurate diagnosis and high-quality repair of the Tuareg steering rack, we invite you to our car service!

Everyone knows that the Volkswagen Tuareg is a pretty good "rogue", especially in "skillful" hands. But, unfortunately, overcoming serious off-road conditions is not always given to him without unpleasant consequences, this also happens. However, like any other car ..

In this case, we have a broken hydraulic power steering, there is no pressure in the system. Further operation with an inoperative amplifier will result in the failure of the steering rack, and it is by no means cheap. tight steering wheel Tuareg

A decision was made to replace the power steering. tight steering wheel Tuareg

Replacement procedure: tight Tuareg steering wheel

• Remove engine soundproofing, Disconnect intercooler hose, Remove left wheel arch liner.
• Unscrew the nut from the air conditioner hose clip next to the intercooler. Remove the air filter housing.
• Remove the noise insulation from the engine.
• We download freon from the air conditioning system.
• Unscrew the bolts securing the engine support bracket and remove the bracket.
• Disconnect air conditioner compressor.
• Unscrew and plug the suction and pressure hoses of the power steering pump, remove the damper coupling.
• Unscrew the power steering pump mounting bolts and remove the pump from the cylinder block.
• Installation is carried out in reverse order, taking into account some of the manufacturer's instructions.
• We pump the hydraulic booster without starting the engine.

The old pump has no visible EXTERNAL damage - they are all INSIDE. When provoked - "rolls" are heard. The node is not operational. tight steering wheel Tuareg

The new pump takes its rightful place, you can go! tight steering wheel Tuareg

If you have similar problems with the steering - please contact us, we will be happy to help you. We will carry out diagnostics, establish the cause of the malfunction and perform a high-quality repair.
We remind you that the warranty for all our work and spare parts is 6 months or 10,000 km of mileage.

Below you can see a photo of the repair process: Tuareg tight steering wheel

Often, owners of vehicles equipped with power steeringare experiencing system buzzing problems. Most often, the hum is accompanied by a heavy steering wheel, and fluid spots may remain on the asphalt under the car. This sound should serve as a signal for motorists to troubleshoot in order to avoid more serious damage, and therefore costly repairs.

The reasons why buzzing power steering, there may be many. Let's consider the main ones:

· Untimely oil change. If the oil used has darkened or become cloudy, and also acquired a burning smell, then it must be replaced. In this case, exactly the brands recommended by the car manufacturer should be used;

· Presence of air in the suction system. If foam appears in the power steering reservoir, then the fluid should be replaced by pumping the entire system;

· Wear of the bearing of the hydraulic booster pump. When removing the belt, you feel unevenness in the rotation of the shaft or its play. The bearing must be replaced;

Often power steering hums due to a defective steering rack. Protective elements of the rail, such as anthers and oil seals, often fail due to large temperature differences, as well as due to the use of reagents in the winter. The steering rack should be repaired or replaced;

Weak drive belt tension power steering pump... The belt must be tightened to the level indicated in the technical documentation for the car. In case of wear, the belt must be replaced;

· Breakdown of the power steering pump. If power steering hums due to a pump breakdown, for example, the working surface of the rotor blades has worn out, it is better not to try to repair it, but to replace the pump.

Power steering is a fairly reliable vehicle system. However, like any mechanism, it tends to wear out and fail over time. Timely diagnostics, troubleshooting and the use of recommended technical fluids will allow the owner to significantly extend the life of the power steering. Prices for the power steering pump from 2500 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and car brand.

This article describes the Tuareg steering rack, namely, its design, causes of malfunction, diagnosis and repair of Tuareg.

The steering rack is the key control element of the car, transmitting the trajectory and steering effort to the steering wheels. This effect is achieved due to an effective and reliable design, developed at the dawn of the automotive industry.

What does the Tuareg steering rack consist of?

1. Carter. A hollow cylinder with a rack-shaft, bearings, stops inside.
2. Springs. Ensure a snug fit of the steering rack teeth to the gear.
3. Gears, toothed bar. They transfer the power from the steering wheel to the wheels.
4. Limiters. Limit the possible turn of the steering wheel.
5. Bearings. Provide ease of turning the rack.
6. Steering rods, tips. Located outside the crankcase, they are used to turn the wheels.

If you are driving on a tricky road and the steering wheel is shaking in your hands, like someone who has just read a couple of scary stories. If a knock is constantly heard in the car, mainly in the left front part. If the steering wheel no longer obeys (rotates arbitrarily, returns poorly to the center position when exiting a turn, or does not return at all; does not require effort when rotating). Or, conversely, the car has become overly sensitive. All this suggests that the steering rack of your car needs diagnosis and repair. What could have happened?

The main reason for breakdowns and malfunctions of the steering rack is uneven road. Moreover, it is not covered with large pits and potholes, but has many minor irregularities.

The second reason is the human factor. The driver, carelessly driving through small obstacles, creates an additional load on the rail parts, which will provoke the following breakdowns and the need to repair the Tuareg rail:

• The cracker is worn out - a part that restricts the free movement of the shaft-rack. First of all, plastic parts are subject to this.
• The outer sleeve is worn out - the part that holds the shaft-rail on the other side. This malfunction also depends on the quality of the sleeve.
• The central tooth of the rack shaft is damaged. Since the car often drives in a straight line, when all the load falls on this part, the problem will arise anyway. Usually the central tooth wears out after 150 thousand kilometers.

This is not a complete list of troubles that can occur with the Volkswagen Tuareg steering rack.

In order to make a complete diagnosis of the steering rack, the part will have to be disassembled. An indiscriminate assessment of the degree of wear and the cause of malfunctions can only be superficially. To diagnose the Volkswagen steering rack, you need to do the following:

1. Drive the car into the inspection pit.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Feel the important parts of the mechanism by hand while the steering wheel is making frequent reciprocating movements.

Some driving problems can be solved by adjusting the steering rack mechanism.

To do this, you need to securely fix the car with the wheels straight.

Then measure the idler wheel play.

Find the adjusting screw, tighten it.

Constantly check for play, steering wheel travel and knocking.

But all these actions may not solve the problem!

Car service technicians will perform the following manipulations with the Volkswagen steering rack:

• Carefully disassemble the steering rack.
• They will find the cause of the breakdown and repair or replace the part.
• Before assembly, clean and degrease the components of the mechanism.
• They will lubricate the interacting parts.
  They will reassemble.
• And what is very important - they will give a guarantee for the performed repair of the Volkswagen Tuareg steering rack!

In order to avoid control problems for as long as possible, and the ride remains comfortable and safe, motorists recommend observing the following rules.

1. Try to drive as smoothly as possible.
2. Use caution when driving on rough roads.
3. Warm up the engine in winter, turn the steering wheel, gently shaking it. This will heat up the oil in the power steering.

And to make an accurate diagnosis and high-quality repair of the Tuareg steering rack, we invite you to our car service!

One of the signs of the so-called "sticking" (loss of mobility) of the bypass valve of the gur pump is a "tight" steering wheel - when it is very difficult to turn the steering wheel, as if something resists its rotation.

Draw your attention to! There can be several reasons for the tight rotation of the steering wheel. Loss of pump valve mobility is just one possible cause.

• Dirty gur liquid;
• Overheating of the liquid;
• Insufficient amount of liquid in the gur tank;
• Holding the steering wheel in the extreme position for more than 5-10 seconds;
• Driving the car at increased engine speeds with the steering wheel turned to the extreme position.

To prevent the occurrence of this malfunction, often look into the power supply reservoir to check the level and purity of the power supply fluid. If necessary, top up the fluid of the recommended type to the required level or contact the service for a timely fluid change.

• Replacing the power steering pump
• How to remove the power steering?
• How to change the power steering pump?
• Bleeding the pump after installation

Anyone who drove a car of an old domestic model without a power steering, and then switched to a modern foreign car, can immediately say that the difference is simply incommensurable. The driving experience is completely different. There is no need to strain your arms so much and think over the trajectory of the reversal. The hydraulic booster helps to maintain maneuverability, vehicle control and softens the recoil to the steering wheel.

Of course, there are innumerable positive aspects here, but sooner or later the moment comes when the hydraulic booster can fail. Typical signs that this steering element is out of order are the appearance of noise when turning the steering wheel, a decrease in fluid, a jerky steering wheel or too tight rotation of the steering wheel, the manifestation of various kinds of knocking when driving over bumps, or, worst of all, a decrease in vehicle controllability.

Faults in the power steering are manifested in the form of a heavy steering wheel movement, especially at low revs. Hum and whistle may appear. Having finally become unusable, the power steering device will not be able to help even in an unheated state. If you do not have the opportunity or you want to save on maintenance in a specialized car service, then there is nothing left to do but replace the power steering with your own hands.

Looking ahead, we want to note that it is better not to reassure ourselves with optimistic thoughts about an easy replacement, because this process is quite time-consuming, but it is worth the financial resources saved on that.But for those motorists who are not the first time to dig deeper into their "swallow", replacing the elements of the power steering will not seem like something special. Before starting work, assess the general condition of all power steering assemblies in order to replace them if necessary. Also consider purchasing a pump, pulley, oil seal, PTFE ring for high pressure tubing and belt. So let's get to work.

1. Remove the protectors and splash guards on the belts.

2. Next, remove the coolant tanks.

3. The power steering belt can be removed or simply cut. This will depend on his condition.

4. Next, disconnect the power steering tubes: inlet and outlet, which are attached to the nuts.

5. Remove the oil seal and delivery tube, which is secured with a simple clip on the right side of the radiator.

6. Empty the tube. To completely remove it, it is better to use the services of an assistant to spin the wheels of the car.

7. After this procedure, disconnect the hydraulic booster high pressure pipe flange.

8. Unscrew the clamp that secures the feed tube. The power steering pump is mounted on four bolts. Three of them should be unscrewed immediately, and you will get to the fourth only after unscrewing the power steering mechanism belt cover bolts.

9. Remove all four bolts securing the pump.

Disassembly of the hydraulic booster and dismantling of the pump must be carried out strictly according to the instructions.

1. It is better to clean the dismantled pump from dirt deposits in order to further inspect it and identify the causes of the malfunctions that have occurred. As a rule, the most common cause of breakage is its complete depletion in the inner cavity of the body. Visually, it looks like a step. You can get rid of the defect using a drill with a nozzle. But difficulties may arise if a non-separable pump is installed, which is devoid of covers and retaining rings.

2. The clamps for fastening the pipes to the tank may be disposable, so you have to break them.

3. Drain the remaining fluid from the reservoir. When using it again, you should definitely look inside and check the cleanliness of the mesh located there. If necessary, the tank should be rinsed or a new one should be bought (its cost is low). The cleaning of the system is not over yet. All the insides should be blown out with compressed air at a pressure of approximately 8 atmospheres.

4. Disconnect the pump hose clamp.

5. Teflon gaskets are durable, but must be replaced on high pressure pipe flanges.

Even in a comfortable environment, replacing the pump can take several hours. The procedure for replacing the power steering pump takes on average 6-7 hours of careful work. If the design of the pump allows it to be repaired, then pressing out the pulley and the oil seal takes a special place. But in order to save time and effort, it is better to replace it with a new one. If replacement is impossible, you will have to press a new pulley onto the shaft of the new pump. The structure is fixed with a screw and nut. The pump shaft has an M6 thread inside. To fit the flange onto the shaft, it must be preheated. After cooling, it will sit tightly on the shaft. Inside the pump, the power steering bearing is secured with a bent edge.

Installation of the power steering is carried out in the reverse order. It is easier to tighten the belt using a cone. Sometimes for these purposes, you can use a special device made of tin. Or another option is possible, when the power steering mount is not fully tightened, and the belt is loosely put on the pulley. Only then is the fully assembled structure secured with the required degree of belt tension.

If you think you can just get by with replacing the power steering pump, then you are wrong. This is not a complete process yet. You will also need to seal the system, plus, in any case, you will need to add fluid to the tank. It is best to change the fluid while the engine is still hot.But since you might not know or forgot, and only remembered after replacing the pump, then we will tell you how to act correctly in this situation.

You can warm up the tank and all fluid drain channels using a technical hairdryer. But the main thing here is not to overdo it, so as not to overheat the pipes. Pre-prepared transmission fluid should also be warmed up. In this state, it will be better to pour there. Everyone uses the one recommended by the car manufacturer, most manufacturers recommend Dextron II. Do not forget about the subzero temperature, in cold weather the main thing is that the liquid does not freeze, therefore, when choosing, pay attention to the markings on the label.

After the return hose is disconnected from the power steering reservoir, lower it into an empty container. The very hole in the tank, where the return flow was, should be temporarily closed with something. The process will proceed as follows. Pour the transmission fluid into the hydraulic booster reservoir and crank the starter. He will start the pump and slowly pump liquid into the return pipe, and then into an empty prepared container.

By color, you will determine when the fluid in the power steering has been pumped, then you can stop pumping. Next, reconnect the return hose to the tank and again turn it a couple of times with the starter and move the steering wheel in parallel, about a quarter of its turn, left and right. This is necessary in order to get a feel for the steering wheel. Important! Never start the engine! Pressurized fluid will shoot out of the power steering. Experienced motorists advise you to simply turn off the gas pump so that you do not accidentally start the engine.

On this note, the replacement of the power steering pump and its pumping ends. Reassemble everything in reverse order and connect the fuel pump. Check that the fluid in the reservoir is at the maximum mark. Get in the car and drive for a few laps using the steering wheel. So pump the pump on the working engine. While driving, try to turn the steering wheel as much as possible in the direction of the vehicle. This is necessary in order to feel if there are still any problems, and if a crunch is heard. There should be no dips or noises when turning the steering wheel. Better yet, ask someone to watch from the street and listen to how the front wheels behave during the trip, and whether the new power steering pump is making extraneous sounds.

A trip to a car service if any malfunctions appear in the Volkswagen Tuareg power steering system will help eliminate possible malfunctions, as well as prevent more serious and expensive breakdowns.

The first signs of a malfunction of the Tuareg power steering system:

• characteristic hum
• lowering the liquid level,
• increased steering effort.

The main causes of power steering malfunction:

1. Untimely fluid replacement.
2. Air leaks into the power steering system (in this case, it is necessary to eliminate all leaks and replace the fluid).
3. Incorrect drive belt tension adjustment.
4. Wear of oil seals, bearings, housing, rotor blades, etc.

It is impractical to repair the pump, restoration will cost 30 percent less than replacement, and the service life will be much shorter.

You can accurately determine the reason for the failure of the power steering, flush the system with high quality, replace the fluid or pump in specialized car services of our network. We employ experienced specialists who have been trained and trained in specialized and dealer centers, so you can be sure of the high standards of repairing your Volkswagen Tuareg and the reliability of our guarantee.

An inoperative power steering pump of an SUV can be replaced with both an original spare part and an analogue. The assembly line is supplied with units manufactured by KYB, ZF and Lemforder, designed for different volumes and types of motor, and their designations and characteristics are different.For example, for the 2.5-liter "engine" of BAC, the native pump has the designation 7H0422153H, and for the 3.0-liter CASA - 7L8422154J. Therefore, the choice of both the original and the analogue must be carried out according to the VIN code or marking indicated on the removed part.

For example, instead of the 7L8 422 154 D pump, which is equipped with a Tuareg 3.0 V6 TDI with a BKS engine, you can install:

• TRW JPR 774;
• GKN-Spidan 54369;
• Quinton Hazell QSRPA804;
• Starke 133-331.

Repair of any part or a whole unit of the car requires preliminary preparation. A detail such as a hydraulic booster is no exception, because it is more difficult to steer with a faulty mechanism. First, you need to prepare the necessary tool, the availability of which guarantees correct and quick repair and replacement of the device.

For this we need:

• Jack. To work it is necessary to raise the car to remove the front wheel. This will allow access to the repaired device.
• Special puller for removing steering rods. It can be purchased at any auto parts store.
• Socket wrench "15" inch. They unscrew the bolts that secure the hydraulic booster.
• Capacity for draining the working fluid from the system.
• Clean rags.

The hydraulic booster is a rather complex steering mechanism (unit), this increases the complexity of its repair on its own. But, this is quite possible, subject to certain steps, which I will discuss below.

Consider the stages of performing a comprehensive repair of the hydraulic booster, which will allow you not only to identify the cause of the malfunction of this device, but also to repair it if necessary.

The dismantling process consists of several step-by-step actions that are performed in exact sequence. Compliance with it contributes to the correct and more efficient disconnection of the device, and in the future it will become much more comfortable to steer.

So let's take a look at these steps.

The first step is to clean the engine compartment from dirt deposits. It is very important to prevent dirt from entering the steering system and other components.

Therefore, the first thing to do is to clean the connecting hoses.

Next, you need to start pumping liquid from the tank. If possible, you need to pump out the maximum amount. Next, you need to disconnect the elastic coupling of the steering shaft. For this, a hexagon “6” is used. The mount is located at the bottom of the vehicle. In this case, it is necessary to make marks regarding the location of the coupling to the power steering shaft.

This is done in order to install it correctly during installation. After it is disconnected, it must be moved aside so that it does not interfere with further installation. To do this, you can use a long screwdriver or a pry bar. Use this tool to slide the sleeve onto the steering shaft. Next, we disconnect the steering rods, for this we use a special puller. Now we need to remove the left front wheel to get maximum access to the unit. To do this, raise the car in the area of ​​this wheel with a jack.

When the wheel is removed, we have all the conditions to continue dismantling the hydraulic booster. So, you can dismantle the power steering. To do this, we find a mount (as a rule, it is mounted on three bolts) under the arch on the side of the left front wheel, and weaken it. There is no need to remove all the bolts at once, you need to remove two.

You still need to drain all the working fluid from the system, so the hydraulic booster must still be located in its place. Use a 15 ”socket wrench to loosen the mount.

We substitute the prepared container for draining the liquid under the system. The hoses are disconnected one by one and the remaining fluid in the system is drained from them.

It will not be possible to drain all the liquid, therefore, for further work, the hoses must be blocked with something so that spontaneous leakage does not occur. To do this, you can use special plugs or use the folk method - plug it with a rag. After that, the last bolt is unscrewed.

Sometimes, it is possible to identify a malfunction during the first inspection of the unit without removing it from the car. Such malfunctions can be mechanical damage to elements or their wear. In this case, the repair of the power steering is not particularly difficult. Since if there are such obvious problems, they can be eliminated by quickly replacing parts. And for this there is no need to dismantle and completely disassemble the device.

But in the event of a malfunction inside the mechanism, repair is not possible without partial or complete disassembly of the device. Disassembly should be performed only over a lined cloth or film. The fact is that during disassembly, the remaining oil may leak, and in order not to stain anything, it is necessary to use the above protective equipment.

Power steering repair is directly related to troubleshooting.

Faults can be different:

Repair of the power steering will allow each driver, not only to troubleshoot, but it is an opportunity to study in more detail some of the devices of his car. Therefore, repairs are beneficial not only for the vehicle, but also for you. After all the work, it will be as pleasant and comfortable to steer as before.

The recording shows the process of repairing the power steering. After watching the entry, you will learn how to remove and repair the power steering rails on a foreign car “Volkswagen Passat”.

The power steering fluid in the Volkswagen Touareg is an oil that transfers resistance from the power steering pump to the hydraulic cylinder, and also lubricates all friction pairs. The oil is circulated through the hoses connecting the power steering units, including the Volkswagen Tuareg power steering plastic expansion tank, which has MIN and MAX marks to determine the level.

The power steering system itself is the Volkswagen Touareg hydraulic system, part of the steering mechanism to make it easier to turn the steering wheel and set the trajectory. If the power steering refuses, it is possible to drive the car, but the steering wheel will be difficult to turn, it will become heavy.

The power steering fluid level in the Volkswagen Touareg can be determined by the marks on the power steering plastic expansion tank. During operation, the power steering fluid of the Volkswagen Tuareg can flow in various places, most often through hoses. As a result, the power steering oil level will drop.

Driving without fluid in the power steering of the Volkswagen Touareg risks damaging the power steering pump, which costs a lot of money as it runs dry. As a result, he will receive serious damage and fail. The power steering pump in the Volkswagen Touareg starts working as soon as you start the car. If your Volkswagen Touareg is left without oil in the power steering system, then the best solution would be to call a tow truck.

Intensive use of the Volkswagen Tuareg makes the color of the power steering oil darker over time, often with a burning smell. This is a reason to think about replacing it. Overheating of the oil often occurs when the steering wheel is fixed for a long time in the extreme position, until it boils, the pressure in this case is maximum. You should also not leave the car when parking for a long time with the steering wheel turned all the way.

Fast prevention and inspection of the Volkswagen Touareg power steering includes: monitoring the power steering oil level and its quality in the power steering expansion tank, checking the drive belt tension on the Volkswagen Tuareg power steering pump, assessing the condition of the hoses - cracks, leaks, fogging, as well as searching for leaks at the joints of the power steering elements.

There are two ways to change the fluid in the Volkswagen Touareg power steering:

• partial replacement of the power steering fluid of the Volkswagen Touareg.
• complete replacement of the power steering fluid of the Volkswagen Touareg.

For a partial replacement of the power steering oil, you will need a syringe (with a tube) and the oil itself, so much that at the end of the work it ceases to be dark.

Partial replacement of power steering fluid in Volkswagen Touareg:

1. We unscrew the cover of the power steering expansion tank of the Volkswagen Tuareg.
2. With a syringe with a tube, we completely pump out the liquid from the power steering tank.
3. Fill the tank with new liquid, up to the MAX level.
4. We start the engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to the extreme position.
5. We turn off the engine and repeat point # 1 again until we get the desired result - light oil.

The next method of replacing the power steering oil in the Volkswagen Tuareg will make it possible to achieve almost 100% replacement.

Complete replacement of power steering fluid in Volkswagen Touareg:

Drive onto the overpass, or jack up the car so as to hang the front car wheels of the Volkswagen Tuareg, in order to be able to easily rotate them with the engine not running.