Everyone has a huge KU. As I took the car, my power steering pump was leaking.
I was preparing for repairs, looking at suitable topics on the forum. I figured out how to get to the oil seal. It turned out that a ZF pump was installed, it is only mentioned, there is a repair of the ZF rail, a photo of a new ZF from Shniva. in a word on the ZF pump, what oil seals and bearings are needed, I did not find anything (am I wrong? Did I look badly?) everywhere there are reports on TRW pumps. A friend on a Ford Galaxy howled very much, stood also ZF, went over (some experience appeared) from him because of the development on an ellipse in these places, he howled
in general, he needs a replacement, but we just turned this part over (by the way, you can't do this on TRW, there the channels and the part are asymmetrical) as a result, the howl became much smaller, it used to howl in a straight line, just start turning the steering wheel, now howl only when the wheels come to the extreme position. I began to sort out myself. It did not howl, it worked silently, but it leaked, as it turned out later, it washed out all the grease from the bearing. I'll start in order. I loosened the pump pulley bolts, with the belt tensioned, and only then loosened and removed the belt. Before disconnecting the hoses, the inlet pinched it with such a self-made crap (like that, for a long time already, in 5 minutes I made it ..)
Video (click to play).
substituted the dishes, disconnected the inlet hose, it poured out of the pump and this hose is so much slurry
almost no slurry came out of the high-pressure hose
I removed it together with the bracket (3 bolts), the pump was attached to the bracket with 5 bolts.
We unscrew 5 bolts of the back cover, here I will note that there is a needle bearing in the back cover, the cover can be removed easily, and then you need to pay attention to where to fall out (not all of them, of course) I counted 13 of them.
I took out a part with an ellipse, it has a groove on the outside in the middle and on the edge, facing down.
Before removing the rotor, I put on a rubber ring so as not to lose the petals,
The rotor was removed, I was not going to disassemble it further. there was one more detail inside, it jumped out by itself in the process of driving the bush
I had to make an adaptation to remove the flange (it took about 30 minutes)
The bearing did not change, it is in excellent condition there is no backlash in it (tangible). He began to knock out the bearing. When they knocked out the kent earlier, there were no problems - it came out normally, I had to knock it out very hard through a brass drift, hitting the shaft from the side of the back cover, when I felt that the bearing went, at that moment the cheto fell, rang. I had a shock, it turned out that there was no retaining ring and the bearing was rolled, and when knocking out, the rolling broke off
It broke off in general successfully, of course, the bearing slid down the shaft and returned it to its place, you can see where it was from the shaft. Conclusion: for these ZFs, before removing the bearing, it is better to roll or grind or cut, bend it like on a steel product does not work out - aluminum. The only thing you need to do is to lock the bearing, I decided to do this (photo below) Then I opened the bearing, I didn’t wash it, didn’t wipe it, as it was confirmed, even there were no traces of grease left, I washed everything.
Now I got to the oil seal, but did not knock it out yet, suddenly some kind of ambush awaits it with its acquisition, I measured it and got a figure of 33mm in bore diameter, the shaft is 19 mm, and cheto ochkanul (19X33). Damn, I went to look for an oil seal, everywhere they offer 19X36 mm (for TRW),. I found it! He knocked out the old oil seal, by itself he already had a kirdyk. I put it - it doesn't fit. It turned out that I measured the lead-in chamfer 33mm, now I need an oil seal 19X32X7X8 Found it without problems
I inserted the gland first with my fingers, pressed it as much as I could, then brought it by tapping through a thick tube, it is possible with a suitable head. I assembled the needle bearing in the back cover, shook out all the needles (I already mentioned 13 pieces), put a little in the lithol holder and put them there one needle at a time, then straightened them with a shaft, now they will not fall out when the cover is installed.
Now you can start assembling. The bearing stood up like this, with a broken seal, the flange was also in its place, I measured it before removing it with a barbell (between the outer plane of the flange, through the hole, to the end of the pump casing 23.4 mm)
There was also a bearing boot, such a black plastic, tightly fitting on the shaft and fit well into the protruding rolling, after the rolling fell off, I did not put it on, because still it was necessary to fix some kind of stopper for the bearing. put the giblets in place, inserted the lid without any problems. That's it, the pump is assembled.
This article describes the Tuareg steering rack, namely, its design, causes of malfunction, diagnosis and repair of Tuareg.
The steering rack is the key control element of the car, transmitting the trajectory and steering effort to the steering wheels. This effect is achieved due to an effective and reliable design, developed at the dawn of the automotive industry.
Carter. A hollow cylinder with a rack-shaft, bearings, stops inside.
Springs. Ensure a snug fit of the steering rack teeth to the gear.
Gears, toothed bar. They transfer the power from the steering wheel to the wheels.
Limiters. Limit the possible turn of the steering wheel.
Bearings. Provide ease of turning the rack.
Steering rods, tips. Located outside the crankcase, they are used to turn the wheels.
If you are driving on a tricky road and the steering wheel is shaking in your hands, like someone who has just read a couple of scary stories. If a knock is constantly heard in the car, mainly in the left front part. If the steering wheel no longer obeys (rotates arbitrarily, returns poorly to the center position when exiting a turn, or does not return at all; does not require effort when rotating). Or, conversely, the car has become overly sensitive. All this suggests that the steering rack of your car needs diagnosis and repair. What could have happened?
The main reason for breakdowns and malfunctions of the steering rack is uneven road. Moreover, it is not covered with large pits and potholes, but has many minor irregularities.
The second reason is the human factor. The driver, carelessly driving through small obstacles, creates an additional load on the rail parts, which will provoke the following breakdowns and the need to repair the Tuareg rail:
The cracker is worn out - a part that restricts the free movement of the shaft-rack. First of all, plastic parts are subject to this.
The outer sleeve is worn out - the part that holds the shaft-rail on the other side. This malfunction also depends on the quality of the sleeve.
The central tooth of the rack shaft is damaged. Since the car often drives in a straight line, when all the load falls on this part, the problem will arise anyway. Usually the central tooth wears out after 150 thousand kilometers.
This is not a complete list of troubles that can occur with the Volkswagen Tuareg steering rack.
In order to make a complete diagnosis of the steering rack, the part will have to be disassembled. An indiscriminate assessment of the degree of wear and the cause of malfunctions can only be superficially. To diagnose the Volkswagen steering rack, you need to do the following:
Drive the car into the inspection pit.
Switch off the engine.
Feel the important parts of the mechanism by hand while the steering wheel is making frequent reciprocating movements.
Some driving problems can be solved by adjusting the steering rack mechanism.
To do this, you need to securely fix the car with the wheels straight.
Then measure the idler wheel play.
Find the adjusting screw, tighten it.
Constantly check for play, steering wheel travel and knocking.
