DIY bmw e39 repair

The problem is this. The power steering pump began to “crackle” in the summer, and it does not affect the performance of the steering, the steering wheel turns easily, there are no sounds of strangers when the wheels rotate, nothing flows from the pump, the liquid has been replaced with green flushing, there is no bubbling. If podgazovyvat, then the sound, whether the operation of the engine is blocked, or disappears. Moreover, just a week ago, this sound began to disappear, i.e. when you start the car, it rattles for a minute or two, and then dies down.
When he was throwing off the belt, the pulley turns very easily, and the pulley with the axle has a noticeable radial play. I tried to twist the new ZF from the shnivy in the store, it seems to be harder and more clearly rotating even without liquid.

Is the pump getting ready to die? 🙂 It's just that a friend's tensioner roller screeched, squealed, he sprinkled it with a WD-shkoy, like the noise disappeared. but literally a week later this roller jammed, the belt broke.

Is it possible that the chirping is produced by the power steering bearing?
Googled a little on the adjacent forums on WV, MB, like the people disassemble the pumps and change the bearings, oil seals, and gaskets in them if the pump leaks, such as bearing 6203 or 6303 dies, and the rotor itself with plates in normal condition and the output on the “ring” is almost no.

Can our original pump be disassembled to the point of replacing the bearing?

We have a pump from the Chevrolet Niva. It has several design differences - not so significant.

The first step is to remove the air filter.

Loosen the 3 pulley bolts, remove the belt.

Dismantle the power steering pump pulley

We remove the clamp from the battery, for the convenience of access we dismantle the generator.

Unscrew the generator clamps.

Free access to the pump shown

We remove the pipes from the pump.

Using a 13 head, unscrew the two screws securing the pump brackets to the oil cup body.

We take out the pump and the first difference immediately catches the eye. The pump from the Chevrolet Niva lacks 1 threaded tide.

The way out of the situation is as follows: we take a long bolt securing the brackets to the oil cup and wrap it from the back side through 2 washers. And from the side of the pulley we fasten it with a nut.

We move the brackets to the new pump and try them on the engine.

And we are faced with the second difference. The pulleys are not aligned.

We remove the pump and measure the mismatch. The distance between the bracket and the pulley on the old pump is 23.9mm. Between bracket and pulley on new pump 25.4

The mismatch is 1.5mm. With this offset, the belt will be a "consumable". The reason for the mismatch of the pulleys is the seating of the pulley on the pump shaft. It is not fully worn. For all the same 1.5mm.

We need to move the pump. The way out is as follows: 3 washers were purchased with an inner diameter of 8 mm and a width of 1.5 mm.

Washers were installed between the pump and the front bracket. The pump has moved back 1.5 mm. Pulley alignment achieved!

We tighten the belt, check the coincidence of the pulleys.

We tighten the bolts securing the pulley to the pump. We install the previously removed parts, change the power steering tank.

If everything is done correctly - Enjoy the silence and smooth steering!

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

This photo report shows in detail how do it yourself replace the pump power steering (power steering) by car BMW 5-series in the back of e39. It is worth noting that in our photo report, the pump was replaced with not the original power steering pump, but with a pump from under the Chevrolet Niva. This pump has some structural differences, but due to dexterity they can be interchanged. But if you have an original part, then in order to remove and install the power steering of a BMW e39, after looking at this photo instruction, there should be no difficulties.

Replacement will require new oil and the most common set of tools.

Most modern vehicles are equipped with hydraulic power steering. BMW in the back of the E39 is no exception. Power steering (GUR) requires timely maintenance. If you do not pay attention to its operation and do not control the liquid level in the expansion tank, then the power steering pump may fail. Replacing it will be quite expensive.

Repairing a power steering in a BMW is not as difficult as it seems

The power steering system on the BMW E39 consists of the following components: a hydraulic pump, a radiator for oil cooling, fluid supply and return pipes, an expansion tank, and a steering gear.

The following are signs that indicate possible problems with the power steering:

• there is an additional hum from under the hood, it can be louder when turning the steering wheel;
• the steering wheel rotates in jerks, sometimes the steering wheel seems to bite;
• difficult movement of the steering wheel to its original position after turning;
• black color of the liquid in the expansion tank;
• lack of fluid in the reservoir of the power steering system.

It is strongly not recommended to drive a car if there is no oil in the power steering reservoir. The pump will fail very quickly, it is enough to actively ride the car for 1 hour.

If the power steering is buzzing, then in most cases it is necessary to replace the hydraulic pump with a new one. Repair and restoration of such units is possible only in the factory and on special equipment.

According to the manufacturer's documentation, two types of fluid can be used in the BMW E39 power steering system. They differ from each other in color and temperature resistance. As a rule, ATF is poured into the system. It is red in color. For cars that are operated in countries with cold climates, use Pentosin. It is green.

Mixing liquids of different types is strictly prohibited!

Switching from ATF to Pentosin and vice versa is allowed only after a complete flush. It is necessary to clean the system when the liquid darkens, also if it is impossible to determine what was previously filled.

Ensure cleanliness when flushing and changing the hydraulic power steering oil. Therefore, cover the generator and other parts of the vehicle adjacent to the reservoir with a clean rag.

Pentosin (right) and ATF (left)

The circulating oil in the system changes its viscosity depending on the temperature. After the engine warms up, the steering becomes easier. The normal operating temperature of the cooling radiator is 80-90 degrees Celsius. If the weather is very hot outside, then when driving on city streets, the oil can heat up to 110-120 degrees. In this case, the fluid in the system loses its required viscosity and the rotation of the steering wheel becomes difficult. Lightness returns with time, when the oil cools a little.

To flush and change the oil in the power steering, you will need the following tools and consumables:

• car jack;
• rags;
• container for old liquid;
• ATF or Pentosin (strictly follow the recommendations!);
• syringe pump.

In total, about 1 liter of fluid circulates in the power steering system of the BMW E39. The expansion tank contains approximately 300-400 ml.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle onto a stand. It is necessary to ensure free movement of the wheels when turning the steering wheel. Be sure to place stops under the rear wheels to ensure that the vehicle cannot roll.
2. Pump out fluid from the power steering reservoir using a syringe.
3. Remove the return hose from the expansion tank. It is secured with a clamp. Guide the hose into the prepared container.
4. Turn the steering wheel from one extreme position to another. This must be repeated at least three times. As a result, almost all the liquid will merge into the container. A small amount may remain in the steering rack and in the cooling circuit of the system.
5. Replace the hose and refill with new fluid.Turn the steering wheel from one extreme position to the other several times. The level in the reservoir should drop. Add oil up to the MAX mark. Start the engine and check the level in the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel with the engine running. If necessary, add more fluid to the mark.
6. Repeat pp. 2-5 two more times. After the last flush cycle, clear fluid should flow from the return. You can fill in ATF or Pentosin.

Each flush cycle consumes approximately 800 ml of fluid. It turns out that in order to completely flush the system and replace it, you need about 2.5 liters of oil.

The stage of carrying out a complete flushing of the power steering

When carrying out a full flush, it is recommended to clean the power steering reservoir. There is a filter at the bottom of the tank. To flush it, you need to remove the expansion tank and disassemble it. To do this, after draining the fluid from the system, unscrew the fastening screw. It is located inside. This can be done with the TORX T20 key. If you turn the tank over, you will see a filter. This is a plastic mesh. It is flushed with ATF or Pentosin, depending on what you will fill in the power steering system. If it is impossible to clean the filter, replace the reservoir with a new one.

If the owner of a BMW E39 car regularly maintains the power steering, then a partial oil change can be performed. For this, a syringe pump is used. With its help, the liquid is pumped out from the reservoir. Then add new oil. With this method, almost all the liquid is renewed.

And finally, a few recommendations. Look under the hood of your car often. Make it a rule to control the oil level in the power steering. Check the color of the liquid periodically - you can use a white tissue to do this. Simple preventive maintenance and timely oil change will help save on repairs of the hydraulic power steering pump and on maintenance of the BMW E39 in general.

Tell me please, the stop signal has stopped burning, the one on the glass, it works in the headlights.

09 October 2018

the person has already been repaired. Broken wire

oleshus 12 October 2018

Who knows where the tailgate hinges (curtains) can be repaired? The lid is distorted, qualified help is needed.

oleshus 12 October 2018

Used hinges for $ 10 / pc why repair them? They are worn out. Buy normal used and that's all

Well, the fact of the matter is that I am not aware of what could have worn out there, I am looking for someone who will deal with this, that is, remove the door, find the reason and replace everything that is needed

Well, the fact of the matter is that I am not aware of what could have worn out there, I am looking for someone who will deal with this, that is, remove the door, find the reason and replace everything that is needed

there either the rod has broken, on which two counterparts rotate - on the door and on the glass, or one of these parts has broken off. Just a replacement and a joy. And so that such things do not happen, it is necessary at least once every two or three years to bluntly lubricate these loops with grease with grease in the area of ​​the stem through a narrow window. Well, you need to understand where the hinge stem is.

oleshus 13 October 2018

there either the rod has broken, on which two counterparts rotate - on the door and on the glass, or one of these parts has broken off. Just a replacement and a joy. And so that such things do not happen, it is necessary at least once every two or three years to bluntly lubricate these loops with grease with grease in the area of ​​the stem through a narrow window. Well, you need to understand where the hinge stem is.

Thank you, I read this thread, I found exactly the same problem when the glass warps, in general it is necessary to change the loop, although it is not easy

Thank you, I read this thread, I found exactly the same problem when the glass warps, in general it is necessary to change the loop, although it is not easy

In fact, there is nothing complicated there. If you know and do it not for the first time. I, out of ignorance, removed the door - then I had to deal with all the wiring. And the hinge can be removed and replaced directly on the hung door - with different supports and with an assistant to hold the door.

Post has been editedINKO: 15 October 2018 - 09:44

oleshus Today, 13:26

In fact, there is nothing complicated there. If you know and do it not for the first time.I, out of ignorance, removed the door - then I had to deal with all the wiring. And the hinge can be removed and replaced directly on the hung door - with different supports and with an assistant to hold the door.

I tried to give a hundred in my city, looked at this loop for a long time, and said that they would not undertake to change, because never done that. So I think that you have to do it yourself, the whole difficulty, as I understand it, is to hold the door after you disconnect its fasteners from the first hinge and leave only the second fastening, i.e. it must be somehow hung up the door in the open position

oleshus Today, 16:25

Another question, which head to unscrew the nuts on the legs of the hinges that are attached to the door and glass?

BMW cars are not in vain

are considered one of the most reliable. German meticulousness in the design of all parts of the car, multiplied by the highest build quality, have turned these cars into a legend.

But there is still no such car that would serve forever and never require repair. We do not consider the repair, the need for which arose as a result of an accident, but we are talking about the repair work included in the planned maintenance and carried out in connection with the wear of the machine parts.

Yes, all parts of a car are subject to wear and tear, and the steering system is no exception. So, the BMW E39 was produced from 1995 to 2003, that is, the last car of this model left the Russian assembly line in Kaliningrad almost a decade and a half ago (in German Dingolfing its production was discontinued a year earlier) and it is time to take care of the prevention and repair of the most important of its systems.

The most important vehicle systems include, first of all, the steering system. In the case of the BMW E39, this is a rail equipped with a hydraulic booster.

Of the two existing on

to date, the Germans have chosen the most reliable steering mechanisms for their car. The principle of its operation is as follows: additional effort when turning the steering wheel is provided in it due to fluid pressure.

This is necessary, first of all, to ensure comfort while driving. First, the steering wheel requires less effort; secondly, the driver does not have to turn the steering wheel several full turns to perform the maneuver. But the functions of the hydraulic booster are not limited to this. In addition, this device largely absorbs the shocks resulting from uneven road surfaces and compensates for the return movement of the steering wheel at the end of the turn.

The main components of the hydraulic booster: a container with a working fluid, an oil pump, a spool (aka fluid distributor), and a cylinder with hoses.

When the driver turns the steering wheel, its rotation is transmitted to the distributor shaft. Moving relative to the spool, the shaft opens a channel for fluid to enter one of the cylinder's tanks, which presses on the piston, moving the steering rack, which, through the tips, turns the wheels.

It is not hard to guess that

as the fluid level in the system decreases, the pressure on the rail will weaken, so that the driver will have to apply more and more efforts to turn the steering wheel. Actually, this is the most common breakdown of a hydraulic booster - in the outflow of working fluid from it. Leakage can occur anywhere: directly from the reservoir, from the distributor orifice, or damage to one of the connecting hoses. In the vast majority of cases, cracked or damaged oil seals are to blame. However, the master will be able to tell the more accurate cause of the breakdown only after a thorough examination of the entire system.

After determining the place of the leak and replacing the worn out parts, the hydraulic booster is assembled, fluid is added to its reservoir - and it is again ready for work. This mechanism does not require any special adjustment. Unlike the rail, which, after repair, must be adjusted - first at the test bench, and then additionally on the car itself.

Breakage of the rail is insidious in that the cause of their malfunction is sometimes difficult to recognize. As a result, any repair of the BMW E39 steering rack begins with a thorough diagnosis.

The most faithful

a sign indicating that something has happened to the rail, there will be a knock or grinding from under the front axle of the car. It can be barely audible and appear only when cornering, but this symptom is very alarming. If you do not recognize it in a timely manner and do not contact a car service, it will sooner or later intensify, which will be evidence of a more serious breakdown. The reason for its occurrence may be the wear of the teeth of the transmission gear or the rack itself, which is fraught with breakage and even jamming of the entire mechanism. At an early stage, this malfunction is eliminated by replacing the worn part, but if the trouble has gone too far, the entire mechanism will have to be changed.

The appearance of a knock may

be caused by worn out tips and, in particular, their bearings, which in this case must also be replaced.

Often, worn out bearings do not make themselves felt at all until they are completely damaged. It is possible to recognize an impending disaster in time by the sudden increase in tire wear of the front wheels, but the problem can be finally identified only by the results of a complete diagnosis of the rack.

The appearance of a backlash in the steering wheel can also be a sign of a rail malfunction. It would be more correct to call this malfunction the steering system backlash, since it consists of several components: backlash in the connection between the rack and pinion, backlash in the moving joints of the tips and backlash in the steering rack. Being small by themselves, in total they give a backlash of one and a half, or even more, tens of degrees.

As a result of the deterioration of several parts at once, the backlash indicates that the steering rack is approaching the development of its resource and most of its components, if not all of it, needs to be replaced.

Pride of the Club

Supermoderator
Messages: 25014
Registration: 9.9.2008
From: City of Evergreen Tomatoes.

Pride of the Club

Moderator
Messages: 17436
Registration: 21.1.2006
From: Moscow

Pride of the Club

Supermoderator
Messages: 25014
Registration: 9.9.2008
From: City of Evergreen Tomatoes.

Pride of the Club

Moderator
Messages: 17436
Registration: 21.1.2006
From: Moscow

Pride of the Club

Supermoderator
Messages: 25014
Registration: 9.9.2008
From: City of Evergreen Tomatoes.

Newbie

User
Posts: 30
Registration: 21.2.2009
From: Ukraine

Permanent resident

User
Posts: 143
Registration: 12/15/2009
From: Ukhta

Pride of the Club

Supermoderator
Messages: 25014
Registration: 9.9.2008
From: City of Evergreen Tomatoes.

Permanent resident

User
Posts: 143
Registration: 12/15/2009
From: Ukhta

Pride of the Club

Supermoderator
Messages: 25014
Registration: 9.9.2008
From: City of Evergreen Tomatoes.

Permanent resident

User
Posts: 143
Registration: 12/15/2009
From: Ukhta

Honorary Citizen

User
Posts: 395
Registration: 19.1.2008
From: Krasnodar

Guys. I had my own pump (car '98). When it deteriorated (it hummed strongly, the steering wheel was just stone, attempts to turn the steering wheel in a standing car became agony) I bought a new LUK! In short, I’ll say this: it hums a little quieter than the broken original, you need to make more efforts than on the original. And just recently I noticed this crap: there is practically NO hum on a cold motor and it works very clearly! When the engine warms up well, sausage begins. The question arose: CAN THE RADIATOR (coil) GUR'a BLUNTED BY SHIT BY WHAT THREAD (from the last pump all sorts of workings or something else, that early oil was cloudy) AND AS A CONSEQUENCE OF INSUFFICIENT COOLING AND INCORRECT PUMP OPERATION?

Post has been edited 3D-King – 9.4.2010, 8:32

Dear colleagues! The situation is as follows:

At the time of buying a car (8 months / 8 thousand km ago), the hum of the power steering pump was clearly audible, and no effort should be applied to the steering wheel.
Having learned that in this state it is possible to travel a little more without harming the rail and other units, left the question for later.

During this time, the situation has not changed, I am going through scheduled maintenance. I decided to come to grips with this issue.
We opened the cistern, saw a gray-black slurry, the level is normal (not yet drained), the approximate color in the photo:

There was a question of replacing / capitalizing the power steering pump, flushing the system and refueling a new fluid.
The rail on my car is completely normal, does not knock and does not cause other troubles.
I surfed the Internet, recognized it from my acquaintances, and called three specialized service stations. Received the following information:

1. Gray-black color in the liquid - wear products of the rotary mechanism of the power steering pump (one hundred 1, 2, 3)
2. When the rotary mechanism is worn out, the power steering pump cannot be repaired, it must be replaced with a new one (one hundred 1, 3)
3. It is necessary to flush the system and replace the fluid

500 UAH (one hundred 1.2)
4. The new non-original power steering pump costs

1100 UAH (noname without installation), 1600 UAH (analogue with installation), 2200 UAH (USA with installation) (one hundred 1, 2, 3)
5. You can purchase a power steering pump for disassembly, knowing that it did not hum + pre-opening it and checking the condition (one hundred 2)

With the above, everything is more or less clear, but most of all I was surprised, if not discouraged, by the following infa from [specialist] STO3:

5. For a complete flushing of the power steering system, the necessary complete disassembly of the steering rack (!)
When disassembling it for flushing (!!), all oil seals and other parts are damaged (.)
Therefore, it needs a major overhaul with all the attendant (.)
(I repeat, I have no complaints about the rail at all!)

The price for this [mouse fuss] is 2850 UAH. This includes:
- flushing the system
- [forced] capital of the steering rack (work + spare parts)
- new fresh fluid for the power steering mechanism
- check and installation of wheel alignment
- Work
Note that this cost does not include the cost of the power steering pump.

Again, this [most useful] information was exclusively provided to me by [specialists] STO 3.
By the way, it was recommended to me by one good friend of the E39 touring guide, who, 1-2 years ago, repaired the power steering pump with high quality and relatively inexpensively!

It is logical that the fifth point may indicate either literacy and an integrated approach to business, or a desire to impose services, but IMHO, the smilie is best suited to this story

Looking forward to your advice and comments!

All personal impressions are highlighted with exclamation marks and square brackets

It is necessary to change the pump of the gur, and accordingly the tank, the tank I ordered just came the other day, now I think at the same time and the pump should be changed because it only works at rpm, they said Chevrolet fits from the Niva, there is still an analogue from the Passat B3 (1991-1993) ...

Maybe someone changed will tell you which one is better to put.

I can write to you so much right now - that your ears will fade, and if they still help me (and they help me), you will forget about the Chevrolet brand in general 🙂 YES. fits. BUT, you don't need it. Take the pump from E39. P.S. The topic about the pump from SHNIVA has been discussed here more than once, for sports interest you can find and read.

P.S. photo - offset. and I like the color, although I generally only love the classics.

I'm starting to help Nekita))))) What a cornfield. You have the same BMW here is the original and put it. Since the miser pays twice. And another question. On the M5 photo, are you going to put a gur pump from the cornfield on it?

I will support Nekit and Maxon. There is no sense in collective farms in this case. Damage to the car.

Thanks for the info, I'll take it in the original.

would not listen to these rich people and would put on shnivy. all one to one and no problem

maybe it’s better to buy a whole Niva right away?

It’s easy for you and me as “rich people” to talk, because we take these cornfields-shnivy every weekend for a trip to the dacha

“We're not that rich. to buy cheap things ”(read parts)

Austin respected, but tell me who and how determined that the pump only works at rpm? Why was the pump sentenced, maybe a rail or just flush the system? It seems to me that the pressure gauge was not hung on the highway, it was just that someone with a clever look uttered this.

stuck this pump yesterday. didn't notice any difference. price $ 100

I mean, there is no difference? Not a pumping pump from a boomer is not worse than a new one from Niva? Then you just threw away $ 100.

+1))) Seryoga test

I have one from Toyota! 100 pounds no difference!

your sarcasm is not appropriate. since once they had the recklessness of "messing around" (I apologize for my French) buying an expensive original, I'm glad for you. only a fool does not save. I count my mani. there is no difference with a completely serviceable pump. the author asked for an objective opinion and not a collection of certain.

Mirror, tell me, was the second-hand option considered or a repair kit? Sarcasm may be inappropriate, but knowingly acquiring the wrong thing.

I personally, went through a similar squabble and would not recommend such installations even in theory, except for financial losses there is nothing to expect. And why it was necessary to change the "completely serviceable pump".

Boo as a gur pump doesn't sound very good. This is a lottery. but about the rem kit I hear for the first time. what can be replaced there. only the pressure reducing valve is unscrewed. like. I can certainly afford to stick the original but did not see the point. shnivovsky pump from ZF from the Germans. from the original, the difference in pressure of 120 bar versus 104 on the steering wheel was not reflected in any way. if there is a difference, it is not very noticeable. analogues of incomprehensible firms are also a murky story. changed the pump as it buzzed, plus there was a play on the pulley. By the way, ZF also supplies spare parts for the BMW conveyor, I have this inscription on the gure reservoir. the box is the same from them. to see the fields at the plant, they also decided to mow down and put foreign parts. only discounted prices for them.

I agree, ZF consider the original, but about B / U I will try to disagree. A repair kit for a power steering pump costs about 300-350 r, such an amount can be risked, even if it does not help, the loss is minimal. I once took a used one, the price of the issue is a ruble, so I am satisfied, although my pump (diesel) is quite scarce , just when you buy a spare part - do not forget your eyes at home.

4. Bolt M8 with 3 washers 1.5mm. and a nut, an engraver and a washer for a bolt 20p.

This post will be about the detailed installation and implementation of a pump from a Chevy Niva on a bmw) Since I usually do not have time for photos in the process of enthusiasm, I will steal them from the Internet, but I will clearly tell you how to change everything. For there is no material on the Internet! , that's all I bought)

In fact, nothing sensible

1. Pump ZF Chevy-Niva

2.1l. power steering fluid 3. 3 washers, regular, medium

4. And some shit, which will be described further)

Everything is as always) Any repair in the motor - removal of the viscous coupling

1. Remove the viscous coupling. Key 32. Left hand thread. Hammer blow. Everything is as usual) 2. Remove the belt 3. We unscrew the Gora pulley using a 13 key and a screwdriver sandwiched between the bolts so that nothing turns 4. Remove the front plate. 5 bolts x 13 at front 5. We put a basin under the car, and remove the high-pressure hose and the rubber return hose from the pump (for convenience, I recommend removing the air filter)

6. By touching behind the pump, we are looking for a bolt 13, which turns the rear mounting plate into the block

Voila, our ward of tears)

We take a new and old pump, and look that the low-pressure flange is turned a little the other way And the fact that the pulley at the cornfield is slightly protruded forward The same is that for the rear plate there are only 2 holes instead of three bmvshnyh1. Pump on the flange. It doesn't solve anything and doesn't go overboard too much. Leave it like this 2. The holes for the fastening are also pumped up. It will be great to hold on 2 bolts

3.Well, with a pulley you need to be confused a little.

We select a bolt, approximately 10 ka from memory We take a washer, or rather, if there is something elongated knee, so as not to sculpt 8 washers We insert a bolt with washers into the pulley along the thread, from the side where it is intended for the hexagon

The bolt will not fit on the thread. Rather, it will go but with incredible efforts. So it should, the thread will withstand Turn to the point until the pulley shrinks exactly along the plane of the shaft, and you will have a gap of 1 mm like a BMW between the pump and the pulley Otherwise, if this is not done, the alignment of the belt will be mismatched and it will eat it up Putting everything back in order Looking in advance how the same 5 bolts of the front plate match with the pump

I fixed it to 4. One did not match, it was too lazy to remove it back and modify it with a file

In principle, everything) Fill in new liquid, but it is better to spill in a circle

Service of the power steering in BMW E39, diagnostics and repair - logbook BMW 5 series シ シ driving pleasure シ シ 2000 on DRIVE2

The power steering system on the BMW E39 consists of the following components: a hydraulic pump, a radiator for oil cooling, fluid supply and return pipes, an expansion tank, and a steering gear.

1 Symptoms of power steering malfunction in E392 What is poured into the power steering system? 3 How to change the fluid in the power steering BMW E394 Partial oil change in the power steering E39

1.Symptoms of power steering malfunction in E39

The following are signs that indicate possible problems with the power steering:

there was an additional hum from under the hood, it can be louder when you turn the steering wheel; the steering wheel rotates in jerks, sometimes the steering wheel seems to bite; difficult movement of the steering wheel to its original position after turning; black color of the liquid in the expansion tank;

lack of fluid in the reservoir of the power steering system.

It is strongly not recommended to drive a car if there is no oil in the power steering reservoir. The pump will fail very quickly, it is enough to actively ride the car for 1 hour.

If the power steering is buzzing, then in most cases it is necessary to replace the hydraulic pump with a new one. Repair and restoration of such units is possible only in the factory and on special equipment. What is poured into the power steering system?

According to the manufacturer's documentation, two types of fluid can be used in the BMW E39 power steering system. They differ from each other in color and temperature resistance. As a rule, ATF is poured into the system. It is red in color. For cars that are operated in countries with cold climates, use Pentosin. It is green and it is strictly forbidden to mix liquids of different types!

Switching from ATF to Pentosin and vice versa is allowed only after a complete flush. It is necessary to clean the system when the liquid darkens, also if it is impossible to determine what was previously filled.

Ensure cleanliness when flushing and changing the hydraulic power steering oil. Therefore, cover the generator and other parts of the vehicle adjacent to the reservoir with a clean rag.

The circulating oil in the system changes its viscosity depending on the temperature. After the engine warms up, the steering becomes easier. The normal operating temperature of the cooling radiator is 80-90 degrees Celsius. If the weather is very hot outside, then when driving on city streets, the oil can heat up to 110-120 degrees. In this case, the fluid in the system loses its required viscosity and the rotation of the steering wheel becomes difficult. Lightness returns with time, when the oil cools a little.

To flush and change the oil in the power steering, you will need the following tools and consumables:

car jack; rags; container for old fluid; ATF or Pentosin (strictly follow the recommendations!);

In total, about 1 liter of fluid circulates in the power steering system of the BMW E39. The expansion tank contains approximately 300-400 ml.

Power steering system BMW E39

Raise the front of the vehicle onto a stand. It is necessary to ensure free movement of the wheels when turning the steering wheel. Be sure to place stops under the rear wheels to ensure that the vehicle cannot roll. Pump fluid from the power steering reservoir with a syringe. Remove the return hose from the expansion tank. It is secured with a clamp. Guide the hose into the prepared container and turn the steering wheel from one extreme position to the other. This must be repeated at least three times. As a result, almost all the liquid will merge into the container. A small amount may remain in the steering rack and the cooling circuit of the system. Replace the hose and refill with new fluid. Turn the steering wheel from one extreme position to the other several times. The level in the reservoir should drop. Add oil up to the MAX mark.Start the engine and check the level in the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel with the engine running. If necessary, add more fluid to the mark.

Repeat pp. 2-5 two more times. After the last flush cycle, clear fluid should flow from the return. You can fill in ATF or Pentosin.

Each flush cycle consumes approximately 800 ml of fluid. It turns out that in order to completely flush the system and replace it, you need about 2.5 liters of oil.

Flushing the power steering BMW

When carrying out a full flush, it is recommended to clean the power steering reservoir. There is a filter at the bottom of the tank. To flush it, you need to remove the expansion tank and disassemble it. To do this, after draining the fluid from the system, unscrew the fastening screw. It is located inside. This can be done with the TORX T20 key. If you turn the tank over, you will see a filter. This is a plastic mesh. It is flushed with ATF or Pentosin, depending on what you will fill in the power steering system. If it is impossible to clean the filter, it is necessary to replace the reservoir with a new one.

If the owner of a BMW E39 car regularly maintains the power steering, then a partial oil change can be performed. For this, a syringe pump is used. With its help, the liquid is pumped out from the reservoir. Then add new oil. With this method, almost all the liquid is renewed.

And finally, a few recommendations. Look under the hood of your car often. Make it a rule to control the oil level in the power steering. Check the color of the liquid periodically - you can use a white tissue to do this. Simple preventive maintenance and timely oil change will help save on repairs of the hydraulic power steering pump and on maintenance of the BMW E39 in general.

It's time to change the oil in the power steering system. The need for replacement is determined by the color of the oil or the mileage. It is advisable not to postpone the replacement for a long time, it is fraught with wear of the spool assembly of the steering rack and the power steering pump. There are various ways of replacing partial, full and complete with flushing. We are not looking for "easy" ways, so we will consider an original way to change the oil in the power steering system. To do this, we need to prepare a non-tricky device, a syringe, a plug for the return to the power steering tank, a hose and a cover with a valve for pumping air and displacing oil from the system, and an additional liter of oil for flushing.

Oil and replacement tools

For the convenience of turning the steering wheel, raise it in front of the car, remove the air filter. we drain the oil from the power steering tank with a syringe, disconnect the return line, put a plug in its place and fix it on the return line, connect the hose and bring it into a container to drain the old oil.

The next step is to connect the compressor and begin to displace the oil from the system, while simultaneously turning the steering wheel from one extreme position to another until the oil is completely displaced. It is advisable to do this operation together. In this case, the pressure should not exceed 0.5-1 atm. After complete displacement of the oil from the system, we remove the barrels for flushing or replacing with a new one. But I want to note to put a new barrel, I see no reason for the reason that it is easy to rinse the old barrel together with the filter inside, after unscrewing the filter mounting bolt.

We put in place the reservoir with a plug on the return line, connect the feed tube and fill it with fluid for the power steering, while turning the steering wheel to both extreme positions. It should fit about a liter of oil. We insert the end of the hose from the return line into the power steering reservoir. We remove all unnecessary from the engine compartment, start the engine and flush the system for a couple of minutes. We lower the return flow into the tank for draining the mining (by the way, the mining can be reused for flushing), connect the compressor and begin to displace the oil from the system, while turning the steering wheel from one extreme position to another until the oil is completely displaced. After complete displacement of the oil, remove the plug, connect the return line and fill the power steering system with fresh oil.

In this way, you can fully flush the power steering system and enjoy the work done!