In detail: do-it-yourself bmw e39 guru repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The problem is this. The power steering pump began to “crackle” in the summer, and it does not affect the performance of the steering, the steering wheel turns easily, there are no sounds of strangers when the wheels rotate, nothing flows from the pump, the liquid has been replaced with green flushing, there is no bubbling. If podgazovyvat, then the sound, whether the operation of the engine is blocked, or disappears. Moreover, just a week ago, this sound began to disappear, i.e. when you start the car, it rattles for a minute or two, and then dies down. When he was throwing off the belt, the pulley turns very easily, and the pulley with the axle has a noticeable radial play. I tried to twist the new ZF from the shnivy in the store, it seems to be harder and more clearly rotating even without liquid.
Is the pump getting ready to die? 🙂 It's just that a friend's tensioner roller screeched, squealed, he sprinkled it with a WD-shkoy, like the noise disappeared. but literally a week later this roller jammed, the belt broke.
Is it possible that the chirping is produced by the power steering bearing? Googled a little on the adjacent forums on WV, MB, like the people disassemble the pumps and change the bearings, oil seals, and gaskets in them if the pump leaks, such as bearing 6203 or 6303 dies, and the rotor itself with plates in normal condition and the output on the “ring” is almost no.
Can our original pump be disassembled to the point of replacing the bearing?
We have a pump from the Chevrolet Niva. It has several design differences - not so significant.
The first step is to remove the air filter.
Loosen the 3 pulley bolts, remove the belt.
Dismantle the power steering pump pulley
We remove the clamp from the battery, for the convenience of access we dismantle the generator.
Video (click to play).
Unscrew the generator clamps.
Free access to the pump shown
We remove the pipes from the pump.
Using a 13 head, unscrew the two screws securing the pump brackets to the oil cup body.
We take out the pump and the first difference immediately catches the eye. The pump from the Chevrolet Niva lacks 1 threaded tide.
The way out of the situation is as follows: we take a long bolt securing the brackets to the oil cup and wrap it from the back side through 2 washers. And from the side of the pulley we fasten it with a nut.
We move the brackets to the new pump and try them on the engine.
And we are faced with the second difference. The pulleys are not aligned.
We remove the pump and measure the mismatch. The distance between the bracket and the pulley on the old pump is 23.9mm. Between bracket and pulley on new pump 25.4
The mismatch is 1.5mm. With this offset, the belt will be a "consumable". The reason for the mismatch of the pulleys is the seating of the pulley on the pump shaft. It is not fully worn. For all the same 1.5mm.
We need to move the pump. The way out is as follows: 3 washers were purchased with an inner diameter of 8 mm and a width of 1.5 mm.
Washers were installed between the pump and the front bracket. The pump has moved back 1.5 mm. Pulley alignment achieved!
We tighten the belt, check the coincidence of the pulleys.
We tighten the bolts securing the pulley to the pump. We install the previously removed parts, change the power steering tank.
If everything is done correctly - Enjoy the silence and smooth steering!
This photo report shows in detail how do it yourself replace the pump power steering (power steering) by car BMW 5-series in the back of e39. It is worth noting that in our photo report, the pump was replaced with not the original power steering pump, but with a pump from under the Chevrolet Niva. This pump has some structural differences, but due to dexterity they can be interchanged. But if you have an original part, then in order to remove and install the power steering of a BMW e39, after looking at this photo instruction, there should be no difficulties.
Replacement will require new oil and the most common set of tools.
Most modern vehicles are equipped with hydraulic power steering. BMW in the back of the E39 is no exception. Power steering (GUR) requires timely maintenance. If you do not pay attention to its operation and do not control the liquid level in the expansion tank, then the power steering pump may fail. Replacing it will be quite expensive.
Repairing a power steering in a BMW is not as difficult as it seems
The power steering system on the BMW E39 consists of the following components: a hydraulic pump, a radiator for oil cooling, fluid supply and return pipes, an expansion tank, and a steering gear.
The following are signs that indicate possible problems with the power steering:
there is an additional hum from under the hood, it can be louder when turning the steering wheel;
the steering wheel rotates in jerks, sometimes the steering wheel seems to bite;
difficult movement of the steering wheel to its original position after turning;
black color of the liquid in the expansion tank;
lack of fluid in the reservoir of the power steering system.
It is strongly not recommended to drive a car if there is no oil in the power steering reservoir. The pump will fail very quickly, it is enough to actively ride the car for 1 hour.
If the power steering is buzzing, then in most cases it is necessary to replace the hydraulic pump with a new one. Repair and restoration of such units is possible only in the factory and on special equipment.
According to the manufacturer's documentation, two types of fluid can be used in the BMW E39 power steering system. They differ from each other in color and temperature resistance. As a rule, ATF is poured into the system. It is red in color. For cars that are operated in countries with cold climates, use Pentosin. It is green.
Mixing liquids of different types is strictly prohibited!
Switching from ATF to Pentosin and vice versa is allowed only after a complete flush. It is necessary to clean the system when the liquid darkens, also if it is impossible to determine what was previously filled.
Ensure cleanliness when flushing and changing the hydraulic power steering oil. Therefore, cover the generator and other parts of the vehicle adjacent to the reservoir with a clean rag.
Pentosin (right) and ATF (left)
The circulating oil in the system changes its viscosity depending on the temperature. After the engine warms up, the steering becomes easier. The normal operating temperature of the cooling radiator is 80-90 degrees Celsius. If the weather is very hot outside, then when driving on city streets, the oil can heat up to 110-120 degrees. In this case, the fluid in the system loses its required viscosity and the rotation of the steering wheel becomes difficult. Lightness returns with time, when the oil cools a little.
To flush and change the oil in the power steering, you will need the following tools and consumables:
car jack;
rags;
container for old liquid;
ATF or Pentosin (strictly follow the recommendations!);
syringe pump.
In total, about 1 liter of fluid circulates in the power steering system of the BMW E39. The expansion tank contains approximately 300-400 ml.
Raise the front of the vehicle onto a stand. It is necessary to ensure free movement of the wheels when turning the steering wheel. Be sure to place stops under the rear wheels to ensure that the vehicle cannot roll.
Pump out fluid from the power steering reservoir using a syringe.
Remove the return hose from the expansion tank. It is secured with a clamp. Guide the hose into the prepared container.
Turn the steering wheel from one extreme position to another. This must be repeated at least three times. As a result, almost all the liquid will merge into the container. A small amount may remain in the steering rack and in the cooling circuit of the system.
Replace the hose and refill with new fluid.Turn the steering wheel from one extreme position to the other several times. The level in the reservoir should drop. Add oil up to the MAX mark. Start the engine and check the level in the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel with the engine running. If necessary, add more fluid to the mark.
Repeat pp. 2-5 two more times. After the last flush cycle, clear fluid should flow from the return. You can fill in ATF or Pentosin.
Each flush cycle consumes approximately 800 ml of fluid. It turns out that in order to completely flush the system and replace it, you need about 2.5 liters of oil.
The stage of carrying out a complete flushing of the power steering
When carrying out a full flush, it is recommended to clean the power steering reservoir. There is a filter at the bottom of the tank. To flush it, you need to remove the expansion tank and disassemble it. To do this, after draining the fluid from the system, unscrew the fastening screw. It is located inside. This can be done with the TORX T20 key. If you turn the tank over, you will see a filter. This is a plastic mesh. It is flushed with ATF or Pentosin, depending on what you will fill in the power steering system. If it is impossible to clean the filter, replace the reservoir with a new one.
If the owner of a BMW E39 car regularly maintains the power steering, then a partial oil change can be performed. For this, a syringe pump is used. With its help, the liquid is pumped out from the reservoir. Then add new oil. With this method, almost all the liquid is renewed.
And finally, a few recommendations. Look under the hood of your car often. Make it a rule to control the oil level in the power steering. Check the color of the liquid periodically - you can use a white tissue to do this. Simple preventive maintenance and timely oil change will help save on repairs of the hydraulic power steering pump and on maintenance of the BMW E39 in general.
Tell me please, the stop signal has stopped burning, the one on the glass, it works in the headlights.
09 October 2018
the person has already been repaired. Broken wire
Who knows where the tailgate hinges (curtains) can be repaired? The lid is distorted, qualified help is needed.
Used hinges for $ 10 / pc why repair them? They are worn out. Buy normal used and that's all
Well, the fact of the matter is that I am not aware of what could have worn out there, I am looking for someone who will deal with this, that is, remove the door, find the reason and replace everything that is needed
Well, the fact of the matter is that I am not aware of what could have worn out there, I am looking for someone who will deal with this, that is, remove the door, find the reason and replace everything that is needed
there either the rod has broken, on which two counterparts rotate - on the door and on the glass, or one of these parts has broken off. Just a replacement and a joy. And so that such things do not happen, it is necessary at least once every two or three years to bluntly lubricate these loops with grease with grease in the area of the stem through a narrow window. Well, you need to understand where the hinge stem is.
there either the rod has broken, on which two counterparts rotate - on the door and on the glass, or one of these parts has broken off. Just a replacement and a joy. And so that such things do not happen, it is necessary at least once every two or three years to bluntly lubricate these loops with grease with grease in the area of the stem through a narrow window. Well, you need to understand where the hinge stem is.
Thank you, I read this thread, I found exactly the same problem when the glass warps, in general it is necessary to change the loop, although it is not easy
Thank you, I read this thread, I found exactly the same problem when the glass warps, in general it is necessary to change the loop, although it is not easy
In fact, there is nothing complicated there. If you know and do it not for the first time. I, out of ignorance, removed the door - then I had to deal with all the wiring. And the hinge can be removed and replaced directly on the hung door - with different supports and with an assistant to hold the door.
Post has been editedINKO: 15 October 2018 - 09:44
In fact, there is nothing complicated there. If you know and do it not for the first time.I, out of ignorance, removed the door - then I had to deal with all the wiring. And the hinge can be removed and replaced directly on the hung door - with different supports and with an assistant to hold the door.
I tried to give a hundred in my city, looked at this loop for a long time, and said that they would not undertake to change, because never done that. So I think that you have to do it yourself, the whole difficulty, as I understand it, is to hold the door after you disconnect its fasteners from the first hinge and leave only the second fastening, i.e. it must be somehow hung up the door in the open position
Another question, which head to unscrew the nuts on the legs of the hinges that are attached to the door and glass?
BMW cars are not in vain
are considered one of the most reliable. German meticulousness in the design of all parts of the car, multiplied by the highest build quality, have turned these cars into a legend.
But there is still no such car that would serve forever and never require repair. We do not consider the repair, the need for which arose as a result of an accident, but we are talking about the repair work included in the planned maintenance and carried out in connection with the wear of the machine parts.
Yes, all parts of a car are subject to wear and tear, and the steering system is no exception. So, the BMW E39 was produced from 1995 to 2003, that is, the last car of this model left the Russian assembly line in Kaliningrad almost a decade and a half ago (in German Dingolfing its production was discontinued a year earlier) and it is time to take care of the prevention and repair of the most important of its systems.
The most important vehicle systems include, first of all, the steering system. In the case of the BMW E39, this is a rail equipped with a hydraulic booster.
Of the two existing on
to date, the Germans have chosen the most reliable steering mechanisms for their car. The principle of its operation is as follows: additional effort when turning the steering wheel is provided in it due to fluid pressure.
This is necessary, first of all, to ensure comfort while driving. First, the steering wheel requires less effort; secondly, the driver does not have to turn the steering wheel several full turns to perform the maneuver. But the functions of the hydraulic booster are not limited to this. In addition, this device largely absorbs the shocks resulting from uneven road surfaces and compensates for the return movement of the steering wheel at the end of the turn.
The main components of the hydraulic booster: a container with a working fluid, an oil pump, a spool (aka fluid distributor), and a cylinder with hoses.
When the driver turns the steering wheel, its rotation is transmitted to the distributor shaft. Moving relative to the spool, the shaft opens a channel for fluid to enter one of the cylinder's tanks, which presses on the piston, moving the steering rack, which, through the tips, turns the wheels.
It is not hard to guess that
as the fluid level in the system decreases, the pressure on the rail will weaken, so that the driver will have to apply more and more efforts to turn the steering wheel. Actually, this is the most common breakdown of a hydraulic booster - in the outflow of working fluid from it. Leakage can occur anywhere: directly from the reservoir, from the distributor orifice, or damage to one of the connecting hoses. In the vast majority of cases, cracked or damaged oil seals are to blame. However, the master will be able to tell the more accurate cause of the breakdown only after a thorough examination of the entire system.
After determining the place of the leak and replacing the worn out parts, the hydraulic booster is assembled, fluid is added to its reservoir - and it is again ready for work. This mechanism does not require any special adjustment. Unlike the rail, which, after repair, must be adjusted - first at the test bench, and then additionally on the car itself.
Breakage of the rail is insidious in that the cause of their malfunction is sometimes difficult to recognize. As a result, any repair of the BMW E39 steering rack begins with a thorough diagnosis.
The most faithful
a sign indicating that something has happened to the rail, there will be a knock or grinding from under the front axle of the car. It can be barely audible and appear only when cornering, but this symptom is very alarming. If you do not recognize it in a timely manner and do not contact a car service, it will sooner or later intensify, which will be evidence of a more serious breakdown. The reason for its occurrence may be the wear of the teeth of the transmission gear or the rack itself, which is fraught with breakage and even jamming of the entire mechanism. At an early stage, this malfunction is eliminated by replacing the worn part, but if the trouble has gone too far, the entire mechanism will have to be changed.
The appearance of a knock may
be caused by worn out tips and, in particular, their bearings, which in this case must also be replaced.
Often, worn out bearings do not make themselves felt at all until they are completely damaged. It is possible to recognize an impending disaster in time by the sudden increase in tire wear of the front wheels, but the problem can be finally identified only by the results of a complete diagnosis of the rack.
The appearance of a backlash in the steering wheel can also be a sign of a rail malfunction. It would be more correct to call this malfunction the steering system backlash, since it consists of several components: backlash in the connection between the rack and pinion, backlash in the moving joints of the tips and backlash in the steering rack. Being small by themselves, in total they give a backlash of one and a half, or even more, tens of degrees.
As a result of the deterioration of several parts at once, the backlash indicates that the steering rack is approaching the development of its resource and most of its components, if not all of it, needs to be replaced.
09 October 2018
09 October 2018
