Do-it-yourself repair of the chassis on the 2121 field

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a chassis on a 2121 field from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The Niva VAZ 2121 became the first comfortable Soviet SUV. Until its exit from the factory gates in 1977, off-road vehicles were used mainly for military needs. For a Soviet citizen, an off-road vehicle, in principle, was not available, and they were not on the open sale. There was an opportunity to buy decommissioned UAZs, but they did not differ in comfort. The only alternative to them was Volynets with an engine from ZAZ 969, which was available for sale, but it also did not meet all the requirements for comfort, although its off-road properties were highly valued.

Niva turned the concept of an SUV for the semi-wild inhabitants of the country of Soviets - no one has ever seen such comfort as in the six, with the passability of an UAZ, but at first the consumer was stopped by a rather high price, and later they got used to it. Niva has become an active rural worker and city dweller - in terms of performance, it is in no way inferior to the VAZ classics.

Niva 2121, which every motorist can do in his garage with his own hands, is still one of the most popular middle class SUVs. Like every car, the Niva has its own characteristic malfunctions and diseases. Being a very durable and reliable vehicle, it is very easy to maintain. Typical car malfunctions are mainly associated with the peculiarity of its design:

four-wheel drive and a transfer case with a demultiplier sometimes bring some trouble;
body design features;
front wheel drive;
engines from the VAZ 2106 are not designed for use on off-road vehicles;
front suspension characteristic only for Niva.

Video (click to play).

We will briefly describe some of them, but we will dwell on the body in more detail. Questions to him rarely appear, but this does not negate their relevance.

The main problem with the Niva engine was that it was not originally designed for use in harsh conditions. This explains many of its characteristic breakdowns.

For cars with a 1.7 liter engine, valve lifters have become the biggest problem. More precisely, their adjustment. When installing them, it is necessary to observe a precisely calibrated effort, otherwise they will either wedge or twist out if they are not clamped tightly enough. The malfunction makes itself felt with a characteristic knock, and if you do not respond in time, it can kill the camshaft. Therefore, it is better not to take on this business on your own if you do not have enough skills.

Transfer cases, as a rule, never cause problems. You just need to monitor the oil level. Propeller shafts can be a nuisance. Especially if they are not lubricated every 10,000 km. The crosses are not durable enough, but with regular lubrication, they will not be problematic.

Oil seals are another matter. The axles and the transfer case are equipped with oil seals of not the best quality, therefore they often leak. If you do not pay attention to this when changing the oil, then you can easily screw up the dispenser. It is better to buy branded oil seals, according to the factory size. Then there is a guarantee that the oil will not leak until the next MOT. After 2011, the VAZ 2121 has Italian oil seals from the factory installed, in this case there is no cause for concern.

We will present several options for bodywork that you can do with your own hands in the garage with a pit.

Before you start fighting corrosion, you need to figure out how rational it is.If it is easier to change a rotten threshold, then it is better to do this than to mold patches to rust. Nevertheless, there are some ways to give the Niva body a proper look.

Tinning can be used to localize small foci of rust. How to do this, we clearly showed in the figure.

Epoxy resins can also provide temporary protection against corrosion and partial repair of rusted areas. First, you need to thoroughly clean the damaged area, and then apply a polymer patch using fiberglass. After final drying, the patch should be sanded, putty, primed and touched up.

In Nivs, the place where the beam is attached to the body often decays. If you have a semi-automatic welding machine, this can be corrected by making a new pad on the seat.

First, we disassemble the front suspension until free access to the rotten place is obtained and we clean it with a grinder, removing the rusty areas.

Then we cut out a patch of living metal along the cardboard pattern, drill it around the perimeter for better welding contact with the metal of the car and weld it in place as follows.

After that, we grind the welding points with a grinder, prime and cover with anti-corrosion mastic.

Niva VAZ 2121 is a fairly reliable and practical car that does not require expensive repairs. Almost all work, including bodywork, can be done by everyone in his garage at minimal cost.

Front suspension mounted on a vehicle (rear view)

1. Place the vehicle on a lift or inspection ditch, apply the parking brake, open the hood and remove the spare wheel.
2. Place the stops under the rear wheels and remove the front wheels.

4. Disconnect the stabilizer bar (6) from the lower suspension arms (see Fig. Front suspension mounted on the car (rear view)).
5. Disconnect the braces 5 from the body brackets and cross members.
6. Disconnect the shock absorbers from the lower suspension arms.
7. Remove the protective plate for the engine crankcase and splash guard.
8. Remove the front brake caliper from each side, without disconnecting the brake hoses, and hang it so that the caliper does not hang on the hoses.
9. Compress the suspension spring until the lower arm is completely unloaded.
10. Disconnect the ball joint from the lower arm and remove the spring, smoothly relieving it, repeat the operations for the other suspension unit.
11. Disconnect the axle 49 of the upper arm from the bracket 7 of the suspension cross member and remove the upper arm 46 complete with the steering knuckle, wheel hub, front brake and outer hinge housing (see Fig. Front suspension).
12. Disconnect the engine mount rubber mounts from the cross member brackets.
13. Place a hydraulic jack with a cross member fixing device under the suspension cross member and, supporting the engine with the cross member 67.7820.9514 or hoist, disconnect the rebound buffer bracket 47 and the suspension cross member from the body side member.
14. Remove the cross member 1 assembled with the lower levers 4.

1. Install units and parts of the suspension in the reverse order of removal.
2. Springs on the suspension are installed only of one class (class A - without marking, class B - with black marking on the outer surface of the coils).
3. It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension, if class B springs are installed on the rear suspension.
4. After assembling and installing the suspension, check the wheel alignment and toe angles.

1 - lower support spring cup;
2 - lower arm;
3 - the axis of the lower arm;
4 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
5 - spring;
6 - upper support cup;
7 - an insulating spring gasket;
8 - compression buffer;
9 - compression travel stop;
10 - suspension cross member;
11 - cross member bracket bushing;
12 - cross member bracket;
13 - engine mounting bracket;
14 - upper spring support;

1. If, when repairing the suspension, it is necessary to completely disassemble its components, then it is more convenient to start directly on the car, after removing the protective plate of the crankcase and the mudguard.
2. Unscrew the nut of the upper ball joint pin 41 and release the hoses from the brackets (see Fig. Front suspension).
3. Having bend the petals of the protective casing, unscrew the bolts securing the caliper guide and take it together with the caliper to the side.

Warning
To protect the hoses from damage, do not let the caliper hang from the hoses.

4. Using a mandrel 67.7823.9514, remove the hub cap and unscrew the wheel bearing nut.
5. Remove the front wheel hub assembly with the brake disc using the pusher 67.7823.9516.
6. Remove the front brake guard.
7. Remove the front suspension shock absorber.
8. Compress the suspension spring until the lower arm is completely unloaded by lowering the lower suspension arm onto the stand.
9. Disconnect the ball joint housing from the lower and upper suspension arms and remove the steering knuckle.
10. Smoothly relieve the suspension spring and remove it.
11. Using a pusher 67.7823.9515, knock out the axle and disconnect the lower suspension arm from the cross member.
12. Disconnect the upper lever axle from the cross member and remove the axle assembly with the lever.

Warning
Before removing the axles of the upper and lower arms, count the number of washers at each end of the axle of the lower arm and on the bolts of the axle of the upper arm in order to put them in their original places when installing the axles of the arms.

13. Remove the rebound bumper bracket and cross member.
14. Using a puller 67.7824.9516, press out the pins of the ball joints from the holes of the steering knuckle.

1. Assembly of suspension assemblies is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.
2. When assembling the wheel hub, put a layer of Litol-24 grease into the bearing cages and apply it evenly into the cavity of the steering knuckle between the bearings in the amount of 40 g for each knuckle.
3. When installing cross-member braces, tighten the inner nut until the gap between the washer and the bracket 3 is selected (see Fig. Front suspension mounted on the car (rear view)), and the outer nut - by the torque specified in subsection 1.8.
4. To prevent incorrect distribution of forces in the rubber-metal hinges, tighten the nuts of the lever axles under a static vehicle load of 3140 N (320 kgf).
5. Then check and adjust the wheel alignment and toe angles.

1 - brake disc;
2 - wheel hub;
3 - hairpin;
4 - lower ball joint;
5 - cap;
6 - housing of the outer hinge of the drive;
7 - adjusting nut;
8 - tapered bushing;
9 - hub bearings;
10 - oil seals;
11 - dirt reflecting ring;
12 - rubber cushion of the stabilizer bar;
13 - clip for attaching the stabilizer bar;
14 - rotary fist;
15 - body;
16 - stretching;
17 - a protective cover for the ball pin;
18 - upper ball joint;
19 - cushions for fastening the shock absorber rod;
20 - upper arm;
21 - cross member;
22 - adjusting washers;
23 - the axis of the upper lever;
24 - rubber-metal hinge (silent block) of the upper arm;
25 - rebound stroke buffer;
26 - bracket for rebound buffer;
27 - upper support spring cup;
28 - upper insulating spring gasket;
29 - spring;
30 - bolt for fastening the brace to the cross member;
31 - washers of the lower arm;
32 - axis of the lower arm;
33 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
34 - lower arm;
35 - bottom insulating spring gasket;
36 - lower support spring cup;
37 - compression stroke buffer;
38 - shock absorber;
39 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the body;
40 - stabilizer bar.

The front suspension of the VAZ 2121 is independent, on forked transverse steel levers, with helical coil springs, double-acting telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers and an anti-roll bar.

The upper and lower levers of the VAZ 2131 have a similar design: at the ends of the "fork" there are cylindrical lugs for rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks), and on the opposite side there is a platform with three holes for attaching a ball joint.On the front branch of the upper arm there is a bump against which the rebound buffer rests at the maximum suspension travel, and on the lower arm there are four holes for attaching the lower support spring cup.

The ball joints of the upper and lower arms are interchangeable and unified with the upper ball joints of the rear-wheel drive VAZ suspension. The support is attached to the arm together with the boot and pressure plate by three bolts with lock washers and nuts. The threaded ends of the pins of both the upper and lower bearings point downward and fit into the taper holes of the steering knuckle. The pins are secured with self-locking nuts. Thus, the steering knuckle can rotate about an axis passing through the centers of the pins of the ball joints.

The suspension arms, in turn, can rotate on the axles within the range of the VAZ 2131 rubber-metal hinges (limited by their elasticity). The upper arm pivot has two holes and threads at both ends. Bolts pass through the holes that secure the axle to the suspension cross member. Washers are installed on the bolts between the axle and the cross member for adjusting the camber angles and longitudinal inclination of the axle of rotation of the wheels (see below).

The threaded ends of the axle fit into the rubber-metal hinges of the lever. Washers are located on both sides of each hinge: the smaller (flat) one on the inside, the larger one (convex outward) on the outside. The self-locking nuts of the upper arm axle are finally tightened only when the suspension is compressed (on a loaded car), otherwise the hinge will not be installed correctly and quickly fail.

The axle of the lower arm is a bolt that passes through the bushing in the suspension cross member and the rubber-metal arm pivots. Just like the upper ones, the lower hinges are pulled between two washers, but another thrust washer (thick) is added between the inner washer and the bushing, adjacent to the bushing, and several shims (thin). The thickness of the washer pack is selected at the factory; when dismantling the suspension, it is necessary to remember their number and location. It is permissible to change the number and location of washers only if it is necessary to restore the suspension geometry of the VAZ 2121, Niva 2131 (for example, after an accident, replacing the cross member, etc.).

In this case, the distance between the outer washer and the flange of the rubber-metal hinge sleeve after tightening its nut should be within 3–7.5 mm. In the event that it is impossible to adjust the caster angle of the pivot axis (see below) with intact suspension parts, you can transfer some of the washers from one end of the lever to the other.

The cross member of the VAZ 2121 suspension is a curved steel tubular beam, to which steel forged brackets are welded on both sides. In the lower part of the bracket there is a bushing for the axle of the lower arm, and the upper part is made as a vertical platform with four pairs of holes for fastening bolts.

An upper pair of bolts secures the upper arm axle to the cross member. The second one from the top - pulls together the engine support bracket, cross member, spar and rebound buffer bracket. A third pair of bolts tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member, and upper suspension spring mount. And, finally, the fourth - the cross member and the upper support of the suspension spring. For reliability, the fastening nuts of the upper support of the suspension springs, after tightening, are welded to the protruding threaded part of the bolts.

Two brackets with holes are also welded to the lower rear part of the cross member of the niva 2121. Niva 2131 stretch marks (steel rods) are bolted to them, increasing the longitudinal rigidity of the structure. The rear (threaded) ends of the guy wires are attached to the bracket on the car body with two nuts and washers. When installing the brace, the inner nut is tightened until the washer touches the bracket, and the outer nut is tightened with the recommended torque.

The spring of the suspension of the Niva 2121 rests on the lower insulating gasket and the upper support cup. A rubber gasket is installed between the upper support cup and the upper spring seat.The upper support is pulled together by four bolts with a suspension cross member, two bolts - with a body side member (welded into the side member) and one more - with a rebound buffer bracket (the latter is welded into the support itself). The upper spring seat is also welded to the compression buffer support leg (facing downwards).

The compression buffer at maximum suspension travel rests against the lower arm, the rebound buffer against the bump on the upper arm. The lower spring seat is attached to the lower arm with four bolts, nuts and lock washers. Brackets for attaching the lower end of the shock absorber and anti-roll bar (behind the spring) are also welded to the lower cup.

Since a rubber-metal hinge is pressed into the shock absorber eyelet, it is possible to tighten the bolt of its lower fastening only on a car under load. The upper end of the shock absorber is fastened to the bracket on the car body with a nut and washers through two rubber pads. It can be tightened in any suspension position.

The anti-roll bar is a curved spring steel bar. It reduces the roll of the car Niva 2121 when cornering. Through rubber cushions pressed by steel clips, it is fixed at two points to the body and to the brackets on the lower support spring cups.

Niva 2131 suspension repair mainly consists of replacing worn and damaged parts. Pay particular attention to the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints (anthers). If they are torn, immediately replace the covers and grease, otherwise the support will quickly fail. The backlash in the upper support can be determined by swinging the wheel when the suspension is compressed (for this, place a shoe 230 mm high under the lower arm closer to the ball joint).

To diagnose the condition of the lower hinge, remove the wheel and, pushing the mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the support housing, create an alternating load, probing the movement of the support pin through the boot. Replace rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) when rubber bulges, tears, cracks or severe wear.

When replacing the springs, make sure that they are of the same class (class A - unmarked, class B - with a black stripe on the outer surface of the coils, has a shorter length under load). It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension and class B on the rear, but not vice versa.

Spacer over the top ball 40mm. under the platform 30mm, 28mm, 23mm, 11mm. Shock absorber gas oil KYB excel-g shniva.

Operation of the front suspension of the Niva in extreme conditions.

We hang out and remove the front wheel.Disconnect the upper ball joint from the lever (see Removing the upper ball joint).1. Using the "19" head, unscrew the nuts of the two bolts securing the lever to the cross member bracket.2. We hold the bolts against turning with a wrench of the same dimension (the generator has been removed for clarity).3. Remove the lever assembly with the axle.4. Washers are installed on the bolts between the axle and the cross member bracket to adjust the caster and camber angles of the front wheels.5. Clamping the lever axis in a vice, turn off the two axle nuts with a 22 key.7. To press out the silent blocks, we install a puller on the lever so that its cup rests on the end face of the lever eyelet, and the puller bolt with an internal thread is screwed onto the axle.8. Tightening the nut of the puller bolt (while keeping the bolt from turning), ...9. . We press out the silent block from the lever.Having removed the silent block from the axle, install it in the eyes of the lever and press out the second silent block with a puller.

10. In the absence of a puller, prying the outer sleeve of the silent block with a chisel.12. To install new silent blocks with a cup puller, press one silent block into the lever eyelet.thirteen.Before pressing in the second silent block, clamp the lever in a vice, insert the axle with thrust washers into the lugs of the lever and screw the nut onto the axle from the side of the pressed-in silent block.We insert the second silent block into the hole of the eyelet.Insert a mandrel made from a suitable piece of pipe (160 mm long, 42 mm inner diameter, 32 mm wide slot) into the spacer between the lugs of the lever.14. We rest the cup of the stripper against the end of the outer sleeve of the silent block.15. Screwing the puller bolt onto the lever axis, press in the silent block16. In the absence of a puller, we rest the end face of the lever eyelet on the vise jaws.We press in the silent block with a tool head of a suitable size (a piece of pipe).Install the lever in reverse orderThe nuts for fastening the silent blocks on the axle are finally tightened in the "car on wheels" positionVaz 2121 tuning or, more simply, making the necessary changes to the Niva is a fairly popular phenomenon, since the car is ideal for a trip to rest or to the village. It is Niva that, among other representatives of the vases, has the largest selection in terms of adding various improvements and upgrades. Let's see in what ways you can tune the VAZ 2121 Niva.The following parts of the car can be upgraded:If everything is done correctly, then the VAZ 2121 can be converted into an excellent SUV, which will be somewhat similar to a jeep.Advice. When tuning Niva, it is very important to pay attention to improving the passable ability, handling and driving performance.Let's consider in more detail the improvement of car components.If you decide to make your own tuning, then you should not be afraid to experiment. Connect your fantasy. Believe me, Niva is a machine that is great for realizing all bold ideas!Improvements in the appearance of the VAZ 2121, as well as on other SUVs, implies strengthening the body for more comfortable travel. To do this, you must:

Install a bumper with a bumper. It must be remembered that such a bumper must have a winch mount;

As for the winch, its lifting capacity must be at least two tons. Ideally, a rope should be completed with it, since it is much easier to work with it in difficult conditions than with a cable;

An excellent purchase would be - crankcase protection. Such a device will ensure the safety of the components and the engine of the machine;

Reinforced thresholds, which make it possible to jack up the Niva. They also prevent damage to the body while driving in difficult places;

Install the snorkel. It makes it possible to pass very deep puddles without receiving a water hammer;

A roof rack equipped with several headlights will be an extremely useful purchase. In addition to the fact that it additionally illuminates the road, you can also arrange things on it.
An aerodynamic body kit can be added as the finishing touch. You can also paint the body. This will give your vehicle a personal touch.Unfortunately, Niva's salon has become outdated for a very long time and is extremely inconvenient for a modern person. The tuning of the salon must begin with insulation (heat, noise, etc.). So that during the cold weather you do not go to the hospital.In order to give the interior elegance and modernity, you can change the trim of the side panels and doors. New buttons and toggle switches can be added. If you wish, you can completely remove the old dashboard and replace it with a more modern one that fits the size.You can also change the seats for more comfortable ones, purchase a powerful stereo system with good sound quality and improve the heating system.Separately, it should be said about the Chevrolet Niva. This model is relatively new and therefore does not require such cardinal changes to the interior. If you so desire, you can install an on-board computer, change the upholstery and add some decorations.Tuning the chassis of the VAZ 2121 without fail includes the installation of a subframe to protect the transfer case.But the subframe is not only needed to ensure the integrity of the transfer case. When moving in harsh conditions, defects are very often encountered in parts of the floor on which the device itself is installed. This is due to vibration. If you install a subframe, it will give the following:

One-piece frame construction;

Improved body characteristics;

Reduction of various noises during the trip;

The load on the floor is reduced;

The transfer case is fully protected.

There are two options for stretchers. The first one consists of two frames, which are fixed to the bottom of the car with the help of supports. The transfer case and gearbox are attached to these supports, which are tightly connected to each other.The second option is fairly straightforward. Here, the transfer case is fitted to the subframe. Despite the simplicity of the design, noise and vibrations become noticeably less.In order to improve the passability of the car on difficult areas, lifting can be carried out. This procedure is done in several ways:

a metal spacer is attached under the suspension springs;

replace the front suspension spring with larger ones. Springs from the Volga are perfect;

install the rear long shock absorbers. You can take it from GAZelle.

After the completion of the lifting work, the car will not only be able to drive everywhere, but will also have a gorgeous appearance.If you want to make your car more powerful, then you need to bore the cylinders. It will also be an excellent option to install pistons with an increased diameter.You can learn more about tuning sedans and hatchbacks here, read about tuning accessories here.After replacing the pistons, ventilation of the combustion chamber can be improved. To do this, you will have to bore the seat, and then change the standard valves to a larger size.For boring, it is recommended to use T-shaped valves. This is due to the fact that their structure is unique and allows you to work more productively.Tuning a VAZ 2121 Niva is a rather interesting process. A car can be converted in many ways. The main thing is to use your imagination.

It becomes possible to install a wheel with a radius of 31 inches, which is considered optimal for overcoming the Niva 2121 most of the obstacles encountered. Also, the angles of entry and exit of the SUV from obstacles, the radii of the longitudinal and transverse cross-country ability of the machine increase. Sometimes only the front part of the Niva is lifted, since the size of the "apple" of the rear axle is small. It is this half of the car that accounts for 64-67% of its total weight.

When the structure is lifted, the clearance along the bridges increases slightly, except when a more expensive and complex modification is being performed - the installation of portal bridges.

The service life of the body also increases, and the protection of mechanisms from damage is improved. On the other hand, if you plan to participate in rally-raids, then you will have to take care of the reinforced crankcase protection.

There are two ways to lift a car.

Body lift. In this case, the car body is lifted above the wheel axles with the help of supports for it, the modification of the hose, etc. This option is not suitable for the Niva 2121, since its design does not include a frame. Alternatively, you can undercut the wheel arches, which will allow you to place wheels of a larger radius in them. In this case, it additionally becomes possible to cut off the edges of the arches damaged by rust. At the same time, the clearance increases within 4-5 cm.
Suspended lift. It is more attractive for increasing the cross-country ability of a car. We "raise" the whole car without cutting the arches, using spacers and washers for shock absorbers, installing larger springs on them. In this case, the clearance can be increased by 5-8 cm.

Sometimes both the first and the second method are combined.This increases the cost of tuning, but allows you to raise the body by a significant amount.

The simplest, safest and most cost-effective lift of the Niva 2121 is the installation of rubber spacers over the suspension springs.

To increase the clearance by 1.5 cm, it is enough to install the K-139 rubber, the size of which is one inch larger than the factory one. You should not chase the height. At high rise, you can "break" the side member or axle shafts. The risk of the vehicle overturning is also increased.

With an overhead lift, the load and inclination of some shafts increases, the CV joints (especially internal ones), factory anthers, the universal joint and other elements of mechanisms wear out faster. Therefore, with this tuning, motorists change the inner anthers on the speed hinges to external ones, install new CV joints (in old ones, the balls go off the accumulated place and wear it out quickly), the front axle gearbox is lowered by 1 cm, untied from the bridge. This reduces the angle of operation of the hinges.

In addition, such a lift raises the Niva's center of gravity. And this entails a decrease in its stability (in particular, large body rolls when cornering), deterioration of operational properties when driving on asphalt areas. Changes in driving conditions and vehicle dimensions must be taken into account when driving in order to avoid accidents.

It is worth remembering that a significant increase in wheel alignment angles requires careful adjustment of their camber and toe. If the standard range is not enough for this, you have to make new modifications to the design.

When lifting the Niva, it is very important not to unbalance the entire structure (we raise the mountings, springs and shock absorbers only at equal, verified distances). This is not always possible for tuning beginners to achieve.

After lifting the elevator on the Niva, just right to forget about light-alloy wheels, you can only install stamped ones.

The use of a larger wheel diameter leads to a change (increase) in the torque, which means that the gear ratios of the gearbox change. Therefore, sometimes the car owner is added to the rear axle of a self-block (self-locking differential).

A complete set of industrial parts for lifting the Niva 2121 (and other models of different years of production) can be purchased at car dealerships. They include spacers for shock absorbers, elongated and stiffer springs for them, improved adjustable rods and rods, brackets for fastening hoses, etc. No additional parts for such tuning of the car need to be purchased. If you don't want to use a ready-made kit, you can make the parts you need yourself. True, this will significantly increase the time spent on finalizing the design of the Niva.

The improved suspension can be seen in the following photos.

We figured out how to raise the Niva 2121 with our own hands. The determining factor when lifting a car is the required size (and rubber profile) of the wheels to be installed. It is on the basis of their size that you need to adjust the cutting of arches or suspension travels. If you first raised the Niva, then picking up the wheels will be much more difficult.

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