Do-it-yourself repair of running opel cadets

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of running Opel cadets from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The last missing parts were purchased today. Namely, shock absorbers.
Initially I went to buy Sachs oil, I have Saxons in the back, I thought to put it in front, so that everything would be the same. But the seller dissuaded him, emphasizing that the current Turkish Saxon is not the same, but costs the same as Kayaba. I began to feel Kayaba, there was a Spanish and Brazilian one. Of the differences: the Brazilian one does not have markings on the shock absorber itself where it is made, subjectively, the stock moves more easily, although it is most likely that pumping is simply needed. Everything else is identical to the Spanish Cajaba. Took Spanish. 1800r per piece.

Previously purchased:
- original bu nexievsky springs with a height of 315mm 1400r per pair

- original upper spring supports 450r piece

As a result, here is such a set on the side turned out:

Buffer analog 200r piece, boot VAZ 2108 from the rear pillar, rubber, 200r piece. Why I took it, because it is soft rubber, in contrast to the hard plastic opel corrugation.

I bought additional screeds - 450r, for reasons that you need to have your own tool, and not constantly ask your friends and acquaintances for it, even if this tool will be rarely used.

Photographed how the car looks now, what was it with what to compare

And it remains for me to come up with something with the casings of the brake discs, or rather, everything has already been invented before us, it is necessary to find scraps of stainless steel and draw a sketch, and they will cut it out at the factory. Then you can remove the racks for replacement.
By the way, I already wanted to put the casting, summer after all is almost already. I went to Makeyevka for the spacer rings, I thought in any stall in the car market there would be a shaft of them, but there are none at all. I'll have to go to Donetsk to look for it, I didn't think it was a shortage. Moreover, for such a common size 56.5-58.5 Lanos - vases.

Video (click to play).

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I apologize for the repetition, but no one answered me in the topic “Going-collapse” and I decided to write here.

Guys, after welding the rear support of the left lever - it was in winter, the car began to pull a little to the right, until the lever fell off it was kind of normal. the car was driving straight or simply did not notice, In short, now all this action has intensified and at a speed of over 80 the car must be kept and steered constantly - it leads to the right more than in winter and if you release the steering wheel on the move, then the steering wheel yaw is noticeable to the right or to the left by about 3 cm in each side. As I understand it, I have a direct road to the diagnosis of the suspension and wheel alignment. I want to do the suspension repair myself !! Where what problems can arise?

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I apologize for the repetition, but no one answered me in the topic “Going-collapse” and I decided to write here.

Guys, after welding the rear support of the left lever - it was in winter, the car began to pull a little to the right, until the lever fell off it was kind of normal.the car was driving straight or simply did not notice, In short, now all this action has intensified and at a speed of over 80 the car must be kept and steered constantly - it leads to the right more than in winter and if you release the steering wheel on the move, then the steering wheel yaw is noticeable to the right or to the left by about 3 cm in each side. As I understand it, I have a direct road to the diagnosis of the suspension and wheel alignment. I want to do the suspension repair myself !! Where what problems can arise?

This topic has already been sorted out 1000 times, it was just necessary to measure the control points of the body in this place before welding the lever

right now, of course, you can go to the collapse and try to align with the adjustments what you welded, but this is unlikely that will help, it is better to go to the welders to give them the body control points (there is here on the main one, and there are also on the forum), tear off all the welding and weld as expected.

Seek, and you will find, push, and it will open to you.
Gospel of Matthew (chapter 7)

Cadett E had a spacious and comfortable salon.

As well as an improved passive safety system with deformation zones of the front and rear parts of the body, some cars were equipped with power steering, sunroofs, electric windows and radio tape recorders. Models were produced with 3 and 5-door hatchback bodies, a caravan (station wagon), a 4-door sedan, and later a convertible, which remained on the assembly line until 1993, although in 1991 the Astra replaced the Cadett.

A wide range of engines was installed on the Cadet E, from the weakest carburetor 1.2 with an undercamshaft to 2.0 liters. with multipoint fuel injection. Between them are motors 13N 60 hp, 13S 75 hp, С14NZ, С16NZ, C18NZ, 1.6 liters. diesel. The most powerful 1.8l motors. and 2.0l. were put on sports models with GSI and GTE nameplates, these cars were also equipped with stiffer suspension springs and an increased anti-roll bar.

Anniversary series were produced to coincide with the release of 2,000,000 cars with velor interiors and molded door upholstery. After removing the model from the assembly line in Rüsselsheim, the DEU company acquired a license for their production and produced them until 1995. under the brand name DEU Racer with 1.5L engines, and after restyling the model received the name DEU Nexia, which is still produced in Uzbekistan, at the Uz-Daewoo plant, although only one modification is a sedan.

1.0 Operating Instructions
1.2 Key
1.3. Wheel
1.4 Seats
1.5 Headrests
1.6 Seat belt
1.7 Mirrors
1.8 Electrically adjustable outside mirror
1.9 Ignition lock
1.10 Instrument cluster
1.10 Controls and control devices
1.11 Body elements
1.12 Increase the luggage compartment on Hatchback cars
1.13 Increasing the luggage compartment on Station wagons
1.14 Adjusting the height of the rear suspension

2.0 Weekly Checks and In-transit Service
2.2 If the engine does not start and the starter does not work
2.3 If the engine does not start even if the starter motor is working normally
2.4 Starting from an external source (another car)
2.5 Locations of weekly checks
2.6 Engine oil level
2.7 Coolant level
2.8 Washer fluid level
2.9 Brake fluid level
2.10 Power steering fluid level
2.11 Electrical system.

3.0 Maintenance
3.1. Operating materials and fluids
3.2. Maintenance of vehicles with diesel engines
.

4.0 Engine
4.1. Technical specifications
4.2. OHC engines
4.3. 16-valve DOHC engine
4.4. Diesel engines 16D and 16DA
4.5. Diesel engines 1.7 l
.

5.0 Cooling, heating and ventilation system
5.1 Technical characteristics
5.2 Removal and installation of coolant hoses
5.3 Removal, check and installation of the radiator
5.4 Removal, check and installation of the thermostat
5.5 Removal and installation of the water pump
5.6 Checking, removing and installing the electric radiator fan
5.7. Checking, removing and installing electrical sensors of the cooling system
5.8 Heating and ventilation system
5.9.Heating system elements
.

6.0 Fuel and exhaust systems
6.1. Technical specifications
6.2. Fuel injection models
6.3. Models with 16D and 16DA engines
6.4. Models with 17D and 17DR engines
.

7.0 Starting and charging system
7.1 Technical characteristics
7.2 Finding faults in electrical circuits
7.3. Battery
7.4. Generator
7.5. Starter
7.6 Replacing the ignition switch
7.7 Removal and installation of the oil pressure sensor
7.8 Removal and installation of the oil level sensor on models with 16 valves
7.9. Electrical equipment for diesel engines 16D, 16DA, 17D and 17DR
.

8.0 Ignition system
8.1. Technical specifications
8.2. Electronic contactless ignition system
.

9.0 Clutch
9.1 Technical data
9.2. Clutch cable
9.3 Removal and installation of the clutch pedal
9.4. Clutch
9.5 Removing and installing release bearing
.

10.0 Gearboxes and drive shafts
10.1. Technical specifications
10.2. Automatic transmission
10.3. Drive shafts
.

11.0 Braking system
11.1 Technical data
11.2. Bleeding the hydraulic brake system
11.3 Brake lines and hoses
11.4. Front brake pads
11.5 Replacing the rear brake pads on disc brakes
11.6 Replacing the rear brake pads on drum brakes
11.7 Checking, removing and installing the front brake disc
11.8 Checking, removing and installing the rear brake disc
11.9 Removal, check and installation of the brake drum
11.10. Caliper pe.

12.0 Suspension and steering
12.1 Technical data
12.2. Front suspension strut
12.3 Replacing the front wheel bearing
12.4. Front suspension lower arm
12.5 Removing and installing front anti-roll bar
12.6 Adjusting the rear wheel bearing
12.7. Rear wheel hub
12.8 Replacing the rear shock absorber
12.9. Rear anti-roll bar
12.10 Replacing the rear springs
12.11 Removing and installing rear beam
12.12 Deputy

13.0 Body
13.1 Technical data
13.2 Body care
13.3 Repair of minor damage to the body
13.4 Repairing severe damage to the body
13.5. Removing and installing the hood
13.6 Removal and installation of the front trim of the car
13.7 Removal and installation of rear vehicle trim
13.8 Removal and installation of the front wing
13.9 Removal and installation of the windscreen fairing
13.10. Doors
13.11 Removing and installing the trunk lid and torsion bars
13.12 Replacing the wing lock components.

14.0 Wiring diagrams
14.2 Key to the wiring diagrams - all models since 1987
14.3 Key to the wiring diagrams - all models since 1990
14.4 Key to the electrical diagrams - MULTEC engine
14.5 Electrical equipment of vehicles manufactured since 1986
14.6
14.7 Electrical equipment of cars manufactured since 1990
14.8 MULTEC engine management system
.

It is quite obvious that any Opel suspension unit must be in good condition. This is especially true of the suspension, since, unlike the engine, which can fail and the Opel Kadett simply will not go further, the breakdown of some suspension elements while driving can lead to a serious accident.

1. In addition to obvious safety, the Opel Cadet chassis is responsible for a comfortable ride and good handling. The most dangerous thing is that in this case there will be a high probability of loss of control, with the next collision with an obstacle that has arisen on the road. Only regular diagnostics of the Opel Kadett chassis will help to avoid such a situation.

Opel Kadett chassis diagnostics includes checking the elements:

springs and shock absorbers;
levers and supports (bearings from above, silent blocks from below);
Opel Cadet stabilizer bushings;
steering rods and rack;
wheel bearings;
CV JOINT.

2. For experienced Opel Cadet owners, it is not difficult to determine the malfunction in the suspension. Experience will tell them what the problem is by the sound and its source. Plus, the most common suspension faults sound pretty much the same in all cars.

Diagnostics of the Opel Cadet chassis should be carried out regularly, even without showing any hints of a malfunction. It is better to do this on a lift, but it can also be done on an ordinary flyover or observation pit.

3. It is important to remember how the Opel Kadett behaves in good condition, then any malfunction in the future will be obvious. To understand that something is wrong with a car, you do not need to be an experienced driver, and even more so, an auto mechanic.

Most often, the following signs of malfunctioning of the Opel Cadet chassis occur:

the sudden appearance of noise, knocking, bouncing of the Opel Kadett chassis, which can both disappear and remain even on a completely flat road;
too large rolls when cornering and noticeable swaying of the body when passing bumps or when braking;
arbitrary steering to the side, Opel Cadet leads away when driving straight;
uneven tire wear.

4. Most often you can hear the knock of the Opel Cadet suspension, it indicates that the rubber elements are worn out or the fasteners that hold them are loose. There are a lot of rubber elements in the chassis, by and large, almost any Opel Kadett suspension unit can knock, as a result, in order to accurately identify the cause of the knock, the car must be inspected from below.

If you hear a crunch, especially when cornering or with a sharp acceleration of the Opel Kadett, then we can say with almost complete certainty that the reason lies in a malfunction of the Opel Kadett CV joint, the so-called grenade. A squeak most often occurs after replacing the stabilizer bushings, often this indicates a poor-quality bushing.

5. If the Opel Kadett began to drift aside, more often this happens after the hard passage of pits and potholes, then you may have to do similarity collapse (collapse of the Opel Cadet). At best, this will eliminate the trouble; at worst, something could bend upon impact, starting from the steering rod and ending with the steering knuckle.

If at least one of these signs occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the Opel Cadet running gear as soon as possible. Even the regulations explicitly prohibit operation with a faulty suspension, not to mention the fact that it is simply dangerous.

6. Opel Kadett suspension silent block not replaced in time, which is not so expensive, can lead to a breakdown of the lever, with a price tag of one hundred dollars. Many drivers drive without paying attention to the sounds that appear in the chassis of the Opel Cadet, and drive until the sound becomes completely critical, or until something simply falls off, this approach is simply absurd.

7. Periodic visual inspection of the Opel Kadett undercarriage will help save money, after all, if you find a cracked boot or cover in time and make a prompt replacement, then the element that was protected by the boot will last longer. If, when examining the Opel Kadett, an already torn boot was found, then you can be sure that soon this suspension element will need to be replaced.

After checking all the anthers, you should start diagnosing the front suspension elements of the Opel Kadett. The front suspension is more complex than the rear, it is subject to heavy loads, as a result, it breaks much more often. First, we inspect the Opel Kadett shock absorbers, they should not have dents or oil leaks. You can also try to swing the shock absorber to the sides, the swing amplitude should be insignificant.

But the easiest way to check the serviceability of this suspension element is to swing the Opel Cadet by pressing the corner where the shock absorber being diagnosed is located. If, after pressing, the Opel Kadett, having returned to its original state, continued swinging up and down, then this indicates a malfunction of the shock absorber.

8. Next, the springs of the Opel Kadet chassis are examined, often their turns break off, so you need to inspect them for cracks and the integrity of all turns. But here you can also determine the functionality of the springs without looking under the car.To do this, you just need to pay attention to the clearance of the Opel Kadett, if the car has become noticeably lower, then this already indicates a malfunction of the springs, they sagged and can no longer perform their function properly.

9. Ball and silent blocks are checked only from the bottom side of the Opel Kadett. To diagnose them, it is better to use some kind of metal lever to make it easier to check everything for backlash, they should not be in a working car. The stabilizer and thrust mountings of the Opel Cadet are checked in the same way. To check the wheel bearing, you need to shake the wheel, if there is a play, this indicates a poor condition of the bearing.

Opel Kadett chassis diagnostics includes checking the elements:

springs and shock absorbers;
levers and supports (bearings from above, silent blocks from below);
Opel Cadet stabilizer bushings;
steering rods and rack;
wheel bearings;
CV JOINT.

Most often, the following signs of malfunctioning of the Opel Cadet chassis occur:

the sudden appearance of noise, knocking, bouncing of the Opel Kadett chassis, which can both disappear and remain even on a completely flat road;
too large rolls when cornering and noticeable swaying of the body when passing bumps or when braking;
arbitrary steering to the side, Opel Cadet leads away when driving straight;
uneven tire wear.

6.Opel Kadett suspension silent block not replaced in time, which is not so expensive, can lead to lever breakage, with a price tag of one hundred dollars. Many drivers drive without paying attention to the sounds that appear in the chassis of the Opel Cadet, and drive until the sound becomes completely critical, or until something simply falls off, this approach is simply absurd.

8. Next, the springs of the Opel Kadet chassis are examined, often their turns break off, so you need to inspect them for cracks and the integrity of all turns. But here you can also determine the functionality of the springs without looking under the car. To do this, you just need to pay attention to the clearance of the Opel Kadett, if the car has become noticeably lower, then this already indicates a malfunction of the springs, they sagged and can no longer perform their function properly.

Replacing the shock absorber strut on Opel Kadett cars with your own hands. Technical characteristics Tuning This ordinary-looking Opel Kadett is not at all

This ordinary-looking Opel Kadett is not at all as ordinary as it might seem at first glance. The device, service, repair Opel Cadet E (1984-1991) - 4. Firstly, the hood does not open like that of the serial brothers. Secondly, under the hood it has a motor from. Chevrolet Corvette! It was borrowed from the “American” born in 1984 and successfully implanted into the engine compartment of the Opel. What did it do? Cordett accelerates to 100 km / h in 6.5 seconds.

Photos of other tuned Cadets

So, I drove, I drove my Opel Kadett 13S , and decided to modify it. First of all I want to say that 13S a very good engine, still squeeze 75 horses out of 1.3 in those years .. But, as they say, technology has gone ahead, and why not try to squeeze more out of it?

REVS magazine in 2000 issued the following test results for various filters on the Corsa 1.6 GSi:

As it were, it should reduce the exhaust pressure, which will allow the engine to quickly release the exhaust gases from the chambers.

Weber is better pierburg 2E3 , and much better than Varajet ... Easier to repair and customize.

Higher cam lift and longer phases - valves stay larger and longer. This allows maximum power to be raised at high revs, but reduces torque at low revs.

Year of manufacture: 1986, Model year, OE body index:

Ownership of this car at the time of writing the review, years: 9 months

My mileage on this car at the time of writing this review, km: 20 thousand

The total mileage of the car, km: I don’t even know for which circle

Equipment: interior: fabric, 4-door central locking sunroof, music - in short, full standard and more for this class of car.

Engine: petrol, Displacement in liters: 1.6, Power in hp: 75

Forward / backward visibility. Work of wipers, headlights. The windows are large, you merge with the car on the second day and you feel it completely. Large and beautiful side mirrors are the pride of my Opelka :)