Do-it-yourself Renault Fluence chassis repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Renault Fluence chassis from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

It is quite obvious that any Renault chassis unit must be in good condition. This is especially true of the suspension, since, unlike the engine, which can fail and Renault Fluence simply will not go further, the breakdown of some suspension elements while driving can lead to a serious accident.

1. In addition to the obvious safety, Renault Fluence chassis is responsible for a comfortable ride and good handling. The most dangerous thing is that in this case there will be a high probability of loss of control, with the next collision with an obstacle that has arisen on the road. Only regular diagnostics of the Renault Fluence chassis will allow you to avoid such a situation.

Diagnostics of the Renault Fluence chassis includes checking the elements:

springs and shock absorbers;
levers and supports (bearings from above, silent blocks from below);
Renault Fluence stabilizer bushings;
steering rods and rack;
wheel bearings;
CV JOINT.

2. For experienced Renault Fluence owners, it is not difficult to determine the malfunction in the suspension. Experience will tell them what the problem is by the sound and its source. Plus, the most common suspension faults sound pretty much the same in all cars.

Diagnostics of the Renault Fluence chassis should be carried out regularly, even without showing any hint of a malfunction. It is better to do this on a lift, but it can also be done on an ordinary flyover or observation pit.

3. It is important to remember how Renault Fluence behaves in good condition, then any malfunction in the future will be obvious. To understand that something is wrong with a car, you do not need to be an experienced driver, and even more so, an auto mechanic.

Video (click to play).

Most often, the following signs of malfunctions of the Renault Fluence chassis occur:

the sudden appearance of noise, knocking, bouncing of the Renault Fluence chassis, which can both disappear and remain even on a completely flat road;
too large rolls when cornering and noticeable swaying of the body when passing bumps or when braking;
arbitrary steering to the side, Renault Fluence leads away when driving straight;
uneven tire wear.

4. Most often it is the knock of Renault Fluence suspension that can be heard, it indicates that the rubber elements are worn out or the fasteners that hold them are loose. There are a lot of rubber elements in the chassis, by and large, almost any Renault Fluence suspension unit can knock, as a result, in order to accurately identify the cause of the knock, the car must be inspected from below.

If you hear a crunch, especially when cornering or with a sharp acceleration of Renault Fluence, then we can say with almost complete certainty that the reason lies in a malfunction of the Renault Fluence CV joint, the so-called grenade. A squeak most often occurs after replacing the stabilizer bushings, often this indicates a poor-quality bushing.

5. If Renault Fluence began to drift aside, more often it happens after hard passage of pits and potholes, then you may have to do similarity disorder (wheel alignment Renault Fluence). At best, this will eliminate the trouble; at worst, something could bend upon impact, starting from the steering rod and ending with the steering knuckle.

If at least one of these signs occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the Renault Fluence chassis as soon as possible. Even the regulations explicitly prohibit operation with a faulty suspension, not to mention the fact that it is simply dangerous.

6.A Renault Fluence suspension bushing that is not replaced in time, which is not so expensive, can lead to a lever breakage, with a price tag of one hundred dollars. Many drivers drive without paying attention to the sounds that appear in the Renault Fluence chassis, and drive until the sound becomes completely critical, or until something simply falls off, this approach is simply absurd.

7. Periodic visual inspection of the Renault Fluence undercarriage will save money, after all, if you find a cracked boot or cover in time and make a prompt replacement, then the element that was protected by the boot will last longer. If, when examining Renault Fluence, an already torn boot was found, then you can be sure that soon this suspension element will need to be replaced.

After checking all the anthers, you should start diagnosing the Renault Fluence front suspension elements. The front suspension is more complex than the rear, it is subject to heavy loads, as a result, it breaks much more often. First, we inspect Renault Fluence shock absorbers, they should not have dents or oil leaks. You can also try to swing the shock absorber to the sides, the swing amplitude should be insignificant.

But the easiest way to check the serviceability of this suspension element is to swing Renault Fluence by pressing the corner where the shock absorber to be diagnosed is located. If, after pressing, Renault Fluence, having returned to its original state, continued swinging up and down, then this indicates a malfunction of the shock absorber.

8. Next, the springs of the Renault Fluence chassis are examined, often their turns break off, so you need to inspect them for cracks and the integrity of all turns. But here you can also determine the functionality of the springs without looking under the car. To do this, you just need to pay attention to the Renault Fluence's clearance, if the car has become noticeably lower, then this already indicates a malfunction of the springs, they sagged and can no longer perform their function properly.

9. Ball and silent blocks are checked only from the bottom side of Renault Fluence. To diagnose them, it is better to use some kind of metal lever to make it easier to check everything for backlash, they should not be in a working car. The stabilizer and link mounts of Renault Fluence are checked in the same way. To check the wheel bearing, you need to shake the wheel, if there is a play, this indicates a poor condition of the bearing.

The compact Renault Fluence car is built on the basis of the Nissan C platform. The latest version has a redesigned design, an increased trunk volume, a new multimedia system, but there are still problems with the hardware.

After 80,000 km, Renault has a knock when turning the steering wheel. This is the first sign of a problem with the steering rack. If repairs are not started, the disease will progress. The defect can be eliminated by hand. Several instructional videos can be found on the internet.

The rack is a steel bar, on which teeth are applied on one side, which, using a worm gear, indicate the direction of the wheels from the movement of the steering wheel. In order for the rail to move without free play and not be clamped rigidly, it is pressed with a spring-loaded cracker.

Over time, the cracker, also called the piston, wears out, and the rack begins to play. You can tighten the piston for a while. After that, the steering wheel turns harder, but without knocking.

In some cases, the tightening will not help, because the spring has been eaten by rust, changing it is not a problem. But all the same, if the biscuit is eaten, it must be replaced. If the repair is not started on time, then the rail will have to be changed. After the clamping cracker is installed, it must be adjusted. If tightened all the way, the Fluence handlebars will turn hard. Do not hold out - the rail will dangle and knock. Take a close look at how this is done in the video tutorials that can be found on the Internet.

The knock of the steering rack in Renault also occurs due to the wear of the bushing. In parallel, you may find that the Fluence rudder does not clearly return to zero position.

The steering rack fails not only because of a cracker or bushing that has worked. Over time, usually after 80,000 km, her central tooth is eaten away. From this, there is a backlash of the steering wheel in the center position. Repairs are made by replacing the rail. Video explanations can be found on the Internet.

On frosty days, you can run into serious trouble when suddenly Renault's brakes fail. The pedal stakes, and it is impossible to squeeze it out.

The breakdown is unpleasant and difficult to eliminate, it is found not only in Renault, but it is restored with its own hands. It is caused by the fact that water freezes in the check valve tube in frost below 20 degrees. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water constantly. In the end, so much of it collects that it is released into condensation and freezes in the area of the valve in frosty weather.

To quickly unlock the Fluence brake system, spray WD-40 or alcohol into the tube.

The ice plug will dissipate very quickly and the Fluence repair is temporarily completed. Temporarily, because the situation can repeat itself at any time. Change the brake fluid immediately upon arrival at the garage or parking lot. The tube together with the valve must be insulated in any way. For example, wrap with a piece of faux fur or blanket, cover with a cut rubber hose on top and fix. The video on the Internet clearly shows how to do this.

For the winter, it makes sense to insulate the Renault space under the hood. This can be done by inserting a piece of cardboard under the radiator grill. But if you take the problem seriously, then special kits for insulating the compartment are sold in car dealerships.

If Fluence's battery warning light comes on, it means that it has stopped charging. The reason may be both the generator and the operation of the shields. The repair is not difficult - you can do it yourself. There is a good selection of videos on this topic on the Internet.

To replace the brushes, remove the belt from the generator, disconnect the wires, unscrew the fasteners, and take it out. Next, unscrew the two screws of the voltage regulator and dismantle it. Brushes are installed on it.

Of course, it is more convenient to change the brushes assembled with a voltage regulator, but if you have time, you can suffer for the sake of economy and pleasure. We unscrew the old brushes, and in their place we install the usual ones from the VAZ. Before that, we grind them a little on emery to give the desired size. We drill holes in the contacts, stretch the tails from the brushes there and solder them on the back side. Dripping with tsaponlac on top of the soldering and installing in the reverse order.

The front suspension is being repaired, the mileage is 79 thousand kilometers.

At first it creaked - the stabilizer bushings creaked.
Then bumps (hammering) began to be heard on an uneven road and at a low speed, then more - it began to “break through” the shock absorbers.

There is no photo report, due to the long duration of the operation, because I did it alone.

So: replacing anti-roll bar bushings, stabilizer rods and front shock absorbers.

For those who will do the CAM - the subframe is removed and the bolt is unscrewed from the polic in the cabin from the steering column. All work is recommended to be done on a lift and with additional. hydr. barbell.

We remove the front wheels, unscrew the brackets on the rack, securing the brake hose on one side and the wire from the ABS /

You can unscrew the racks itself and the bracket for the hose and wire - I removed the wire (loop) and, turning it on the hose, took the bracket to the front of the car.

I unscrewed the stabilizer rods (internal hex) and the 16 key, on such a run it is advisable to sprinkle all WD40 connections. As the connections are loosened, they will "move away"
Remove the engine protection.

Next (we do it with the help of an additional bar), unscrew the rear 2 + 1 bolts (16 + 21) on the subframe on both sides and bring the bar under the middle of the subframe.Next, we unscrew the bolts from the side members, the engine rests with its rear end on the bar (so as not to be afraid that it will not stand) - it can withstand everything even without the bar. We lower the subframe down on the bar, unscrew the thermal shield (2 bolts by 10) and unscrew 4 bolts by 13 - they are 5 cm each - and why the heck?) Next, we change the bushings - removed and inserted - they are split - the replacement is not particularly difficult. By the way - there is production on the inner side of the left sleeve.

We replaced the bushings - we fasten everything back - and with the barbell we squeeze everything back up - we fasten it to the bolts - everything is here.

Next, under the hood - remove the wipers (key 16), rubber seal in the front of the engine compartment. Remove the frill (key 10) and unscrew 3 bolts 13 on each side - LET'S RUN. The most hemorrhoids were with a spring - it is not like on the "Classic" and the stand itself - WITH THE MIDDLE - it does not fly out to the max length, stands in the middle of the rod. First, we squeeze the spring as usual (UNDER THE RECOMMENDATION OF THE SERVICE WORKERS WITH A PNEUMATIC GUN FOR WHEELS - it turns out faster), and then, when installed on the rack, Squeeze additional ties for the springs, I clung to the cup on the rack and pressed the nut to the stem to come out into the stem.

Well, then the installation of the racks - THEY ARE NOT EQUAL SIDED at the top of the fasteners.

DO NOT FORGET TO DIAGNOSE - THRUST BEARINGS AND SUPPORTS THEMSELVES - my left one flew out, I ordered it already. Like everything, to write and upload to THAT - I WILL NOT DO IT BY YOURSELF - it is more difficult there. Everything is based on reliable facts, if there are any improvements, they are only welcomed. LET'S CORRECT NECESSARILY!

Renault Fluence appeared on the domestic market in 2010. The French sedan was assembled in Russia at the Avtoframos plant in Moscow and in Turkey. In addition, the model was assembled in Argentina, India, Malaysia and South Korea. Technically, Fluence is almost identical to the third Megan, moreover, they are built on the same platform - the Renailt-Nissan C.

In the arsenal of official Renault Fluence only gasoline aspirated engines: 1.6 liters (106 hp / K4M and 116 hp / H4M) and 2.0 liters (138 hp / M4R). Diesel versions were also available in Europe - with 1.5 and 1.6 dCi. Diesel modifications are not found on the secondary market.

The 2-liter engine and the 1.6-liter H4M have a reliable chain-type timing drive. K4M is equipped with a timing belt drive with a changeover interval of 60,000 km (5,000 rubles per set).

The 1.6-liter K4M is the most popular. Its weak point is the phase regulator, which wears out after 100-120 thousand km. First, there is a characteristic crackling, and then - dips in traction and interruptions in the operation of the engine. The cost of the new phase regulator is 5,000 rubles. It is recommended to update it with a second timing belt replacement - by 120,000 km.

One of the mysterious phenomena occurring with Renault Fluence is the difficulty in starting a cold engine after a long stay. When contacting the service, dealers reflashed the engine ECU, cleaned the throttle valve, changed injectors and spark plugs. But preventive procedures did not help everyone.

Problems with starting can also arise due to a blown starter fuse, a retractor relay, or even the starter itself (6,000 rubles).

After 50-80 thousand km, it is often necessary to change the thermostat. It gets stricken, or it starts to leak, which leads to mixing of oil with antifreeze. The cost of a new part is about 5,000 rubles.

Sometimes the fuel level sensor, which changes in assembly with a gasoline pump (from 16,000 rubles), starts to play a fool. In addition, the crankshaft oil seals may leak.

Over time, from sudden temperature changes (for example, after overcoming deep puddles), the muffler's heat shield deforms and begins to touch the elements of the exhaust system, making an unpleasant ringing. In this case, it is enough to bend the thermal protection to an acceptable position. In the morning, the muffler itself can accompany the warming up of the engine with a metallic ringing. And by 100-120 thousand km, the O-ring of the exhaust system (150 rubles) often burns out - a characteristic roar appears.

In pre-styling cars with manual transmission, after 50-100 thousand km, the bolt of the engine mount often broke off, which incidentally led to damage to the reverse sensor and the internal grenade. Later the problem was solved - a more powerful bolt was installed.

Transmission

Renault Fluence with a 1.6 liter engine was equipped with a 5-speed manual transmission (JH3) or a 4-speed "automatic" (AL4 / DP0). After restyling, it was replaced by a variator (JF015). The 2-liter engine was combined with a 6-speed manual or CVT.

The main complaint about the "mechanics" is jerking at the start after a long drive in a traffic jam. Dealers renewed the clutch kit under warranty if the mileage did not exceed the 30,000 km mark. According to them, the problem is in the clutch disc, which the manufacturer later upgraded. But after replacement, the problem often reappeared. However, the clutch master cylinder or release bearing may have required attention.

After 80-100 thousand km, some owners note the appearance of extraneous noise in the manual transmission. Mechanics assure that this is a feature of her work - the bearings howl.

In winter, after overnight parking, the gear lever often becomes tight or does not move. The reason is the freezing of moisture trapped under the cable jacket. Drying and lubricating the assembly eliminates the problem for a short time. It is better to replace the cable - 4,000 rubles.

Automatic transmission owners often complain of jolting when shifting. The problem appears after 20-30 thousand km. The culprit is the pressure modulation solenoid valve. Almost all machines pass through its replacement by 100-150 thousand km. The cost of the procedure is about 15,000 rubles. With regular renewal of oil, the automatic transmission will last up to overhaul of 300-350 thousand km.

The variator worried the owners no less. At times he began to creak, grunt and gnash. The manufacturer has known the problem. Everything happened due to the sagging of the variator belt at engine speeds of 900-1100 rpm or more. "Treatment" was carried out by updating the program for controlling the operation of the variator.

After 50-100 thousand km, jerks and tremors appear from time to time. It's all about the vulnerable CVT pump pressure relief valve. The sun gear and bearings can also be damaged. For repairs, you will need about 50-60 thousand rubles. With skillful handling and timely maintenance, the variator is capable of passing 200-250 thousand km without repair.

The suspension, like most modern cars, can creak in the cold. More often than not, the stabilizer bushings are to blame.

After 30 - 50 thousand km, the anthers of the front shock absorbers were often torn. Dealers made a replacement provided that the mileage at the time of contact did not exceed 30,000 km. The anthers of the struts from the VAZ 2110 are ideal as a substitute, and an analogue from the VAZ 2108 as a bump stop. The shock absorbers themselves serve more than 100-150 thousand km.

The front levers (from 3,000 rubles apiece) may require replacement after 60-100 thousand km. The silent blocks fail, and a little later - the ball joints.

Due to a defect in the area of the splined connection, some owners were faced with the appearance of knocks that give off to the steering wheel when driving irregularities. The steering rack sometimes starts knocking after 100-150 thousand km.

It is worth noting a few unpleasant incidents that occurred with 2 liter Fluences in winter. At the most inopportune moment, the brakes failed - the brake pedal "got stuck". The reason is the freezing of the brake valve of the vacuum hose. Dealers put an extra shroud on the hose as a countermeasure. The Fluence brake system with a 1.6 liter engine is slightly different - no such incidents have been recorded with it.

Body and interior

Over time, the boot lid begins to wipe down the paintwork on the rear bumper. Dealers recognize the case as a warranty and repaint problem areas. Also, many notice the appearance of scuffs from the rear door seals.

The chrome on the rear emblem can "swell" after the first winter. Similar problems are found on the front emblem, lower grille trim and PTF overlays.

Renault Fluence's interior soon begins to creak. A rattling noise occurs in the area of the seat belt and front head restraints. The steering wheel sometimes climbed already in the first year of operation. And in winter, leather inserts on the front seats often burst.

"Winter drops" from a ceiling lamp or front visors are not uncommon for a modern car. A similar phenomenon is observed here.

Other problems and malfunctions

During the winter operation, many complain about the "freezing" left leg. One of the possible reasons is the gap between the duct pipes, through which cold air enters.

The heater fan motor (from 3,500 rubles) may fail after 100-150 thousand km. Soon, the trunk opening button is also rented.

The head unit is often "buggy": it turns off, resets the settings, spits out or does not read discs, or turns off the speakers. At the same time, many complain about poor reception of radio stations, and after 5-6 years they may begin to clamber over the buttons on the radio tape recorder.

In general, minor malfunctions in the work of an electrician are not alien to Fluence. More often than not, everything is cured by a banal turning off the ignition, or by tightening the battery terminals.

Many units, such as the engine and gearboxes, were used on the second generation Renault Megane, and after modernization they were installed on a new model. Apparently, the work on improving the units was done hastily and not deeply enough, since some of the "sores" migrated from there.

Renault Fluence is radically different from its predecessor Renault Megan 2, not only in appearance, but also in spaciousness. In this article we will try to figure out what is good about this car and whether it is worth contacting a used car of this brand.

Despite the different name and different appearance, Renault Fluence is nothing more than a four-door version of the popular Renault Megan 3 hatchback. Both cars are built on the same platform and differ from each other only in their bodies and a long wheelbase, which is 60 mm longer for sedans and station wagons. than the hatchback version. Cars in the sedan body are in great demand in our market, this share has not passed and Fluence, which has gained more popularity than the Renault Megan hatchback.

As operating experience has shown, this car brand has no significant complaints about corrosion resistance, but you need to look closely at some elements. So over time, the branded chrome emblem, which is installed on the trunk lid, can begin to climb. Also, when buying a used car, pay attention to the upper part of the rear pillars, due to the fact that the seal on the doors is hard enough, when moisture and dust gets on it, the paint is wiped (in order to prevent this damage to the body, these places must be glued with a transparent film).

Another weak point is the door position limiter lock. Over time, due to the wear and tear of the mechanism, when opening and closing the doors, it begins to click unpleasantly, as the owners claim, lubrication will not work, and if this problem already exists, you will have to change the retainer.

For Fluence, two petrol engines of 1.6 and 2 liters are available, and three diesel engines with the same volume of 1.5 liters, but with different power of 90, 105 and 110 horsepower. As the operating experience of Renault Fluence has shown, the engines are much more reliable than those of its predecessor. So, in particular, Renault changed the manufacturer of the variable valve timing mechanism, as a result, this unit no longer causes trouble. Also, the individual ignition coils, the crankshaft position sensor and the rear engine mount have been improved, all of the above parts have a fairly long resource of robots. Moreover, no typical problems in the robot of gasoline engines have been identified. It is worth noting that Renault Fluence engines are not picky about fuel and can run on gasoline from AI-91 to AI-98.

Turbodiesel versions have one weak point, due to incorrect installation of the high-pressure fuel pump at the factory, the timing belt wears out prematurely with its pulley, this drawback is eliminated by adjusting the injection pump at an official service center. Otherwise, diesel engines deserve only positive feedback from the owners: low fuel consumption of 4.5 liters per hundred in the combined cycle, good traction power, maximum 240 Nm is achieved already at 2000 rpm and good acceleration dynamics for a family car from 0 to 100 in 11.4 seconds.

Renault Fluence has a wide range of gearboxes: five and six-speed mechanics, four and six-speed automatic transmissions and a CVT variator. It should be noted that an automatic machine with a large number of gears and CVTs was installed on cars after restyling in 2013 and these transmissions do not have a large number of negative reviews.

More reliable steel and gearboxes, which were previously used on Renault Megan 2. So, in particular, in the automatic transmission there are no more problems with the valve body, torque converters and oil seals, and problems in the mechanics, which previously had problems with the clutch and oil leak at the joint of the crankcase, have also been eliminated gearbox and engine. Lubrication in all types of transmissions is designed for the entire service life of the unit. But when buying a used car, it is advisable to replace the lubricants.

A MacPherson strut with anti-roll bar is installed at the front, and a simple twist beam at the rear. The suspension is quite reliable, but still it has weak points. Most often, the anthers and bumpers of the front struts cause trouble, they are made in one piece, and the anthers themselves are very hard rubber, over time, due to the operation of the bump stop, the boot comes off and, as a result, the shock absorber rod remains open. Ball bearings have a small resource, on average they nurture 60 - 80 thousand kilometers, stabilizer bushings - up to 80 thousand, km, silent blocks of the front levers more than 120 thousand, km. The rest of the front consumables are able to last long enough. The rear suspension is considered eternal; replacement of silent blocks due to wear is extremely rare.

Due to the specific shape of the body and the lowered roofline in the area of the rear doors, passengers often hit their heads in the upper part of the doorway when getting in and out of the door. The rest of the interior is quite comfortable and practical. Also, very rarely, owners are faced with a breakdown of electronic equipment.

The Renault Fluence trunk will appeal to practical and pragmatic owners, its volume is 530 liters and is the most spacious in the class. Despite the large volume of the trunk, the owners revealed a flaw in it, so when the trunk lid is closed, its eyes go inside too much, thereby reducing the usable space.

In general, Renault Fluence turned out to be quite reliable, and the identified weaknesses are not particularly significant and can be easily eliminated. The purchase of this car can be recommended to family and practical motorists.

If you are or were the owner of this car brand, please share your experience, indicating the strengths and weaknesses of the car. Perhaps it is your review that will help others to choose choose a used car.

The door opening restriction latch is fairly easy to repair. We disassemble, turn over the worn-out core by 180% (on the un-worn side), collect, continue to drive. Further, it can be replaced with an iron one, they are sold whether they are turned by any good turner.
I drove 120 t.km into the suspension did not even climb yet. Maybe for the sake of prevention it is worth climbing, but there are no reasons yet.
The stove engine was replaced by 90 t.km. The old one may be being repaired, but the crane is hard to disassemble, the blades are easily broken.
The engine started to stall in the first 15 minutes of driving exactly at position D at a traffic light, for example. This problem has not yet been dealt with only in the process.I will clean the fuel, see which sensors are responsible for this and change them.
The door locks are not regulated and at 20 t.km there was a creak of sealing rubber bands. It is treated by winding electrical tape or other adhesive tapes on the retainer on both sides. I did it once and forgot.
The engine is artificially strangled to drive faster, they reflash their brains, but that's enough for me.
I fill only AI95, I change the oil every 10t.km. + candles and filter. There are no more complaints so far.

Did your relatives put the racks? How does it feel with the new racks?

It's bad that they don't say what keys are needed, size, etc.

the tool is just fig. I changed the stub racks without any problems with a ratchet wrench and a normal hexagon under the head. I didn't have to bend anything. 5 minutes and you're done.

It's easier to pay 2000 rubles in the service for replacing amorts

fuck you uebany, your hands are growing out of your ass, with ordinary ties everything is pulled together normally, the main thing is to put it right

Doubt? So either there is no imagination or the hands are growing out of the ass! I changed the racks twice, in a simple old-fashioned way. Tightened with ties and pulled up with wire. On one rack 1/5 hour, and the first time it took about 3 hours.

Yes, it was not the staples that had to be made, but twisted. Wire 3-4 mm. I took 4 electrodes ..

As for the anthers from 10, this is definitely shit! After 2 thousand, they fell to the bottom (that is, they shrank and the stock remained open).

Useful video, especially for those who want to change stands with their own hands) Like and subscription, we hope for reciprocity)