Do-it-yourself repair of the Citroen berlingo chassis

Suspension is one of the most important devices in the complex mechanism of a car, which ensures effective adhesion of the wheels of the car to the supporting structure of the body. As is typical of any device, its individual parts wear out over time, which leads to critical damage. Fortunately, the whole thing is fixable, and, as evidence, we will present a car with a damaged rear beam. This video takes a closer look at the repair of the rear beam of the Citroen Berlingo.

Our example uses a torsion bar suspension. It is logical that the rear beam can be called a torsion beam. In the diagnostic process, not every novice driver can notice any flaws when checking the rear beam for integrity.

To accurately determine the breakdown, there are the following signs.

1. Audible squeaking or grinding sound.
2. The appearance of a backlash between the rear beam tube and the balancer supporting the wheel itself with the hub. It can be found with independent swinging the lever at the point of joining with the beam, however, you need to correctly distribute the efforts or have a little luck in stock.
3. Shabby appearance and missing some bearings.
4. The wheels are lined up as a "house".

Citroen Berlingo and Peugeot Partner have the same design and interchangeable parts, so the instructions for repairing and replacing the rear beam will be the same.

What manipulations need to be done with your own hands:

1. First you need to unscrew the rear wheels of the car.
2. Remove hubs and brake pads.
3. Unscrew the M8 “sprockets” that secure the bearings.
4. Knock out the torsion bar with a guide, having previously unscrewed two supporting bolts on both sides. It can be easier to knock out by heating.
5. Separate the levers with silent blocks from the structure by knocking out or unscrewing their bolts.
6. Saw off the worn pins of the beam, pull out with heat and replace with new ones.
7. Clean the levers.
8. Insert new bearings into the levers (should be 3.7 times wider) to replace the worn base bearings. An additional plus is the presence of an oil can for each of them.
9. Reassemble the beam by injecting 3-4 grease strokes.

It depends on where to buy and what. The price from official dealers can be about 100,000 rubles, taking into account the guarantee and complete replacement of the beam with all the details. If we consider unofficial options, then the cost of repairing the rear beam in different cities is approximately the same.

In Moscow, replacement of needle bearings and pins will cost about 27,000 rubles, in Minsk 900 Belarusian rubles, in Krasnodar 24-25 thousand. The cost of the beam itself is about 33 thousand rubles. How much to spend on repairs is a personal matter for every motorist.

Do-it-yourself car repair without the help of specialists allows you to save a lot. Of course, you should first read the tips and instructions for the operation you want to perform. Having studied the topic, you can start repairing.

The rear torsion bar of the Citroën Berlingo is compact and simple. In its design, needle bearings are provided, a lever (balancer) swings on them. There are bearings on both sides of the rear beam: outer and inner. The bearings themselves are miniature, the needle rollers are thin. They are often forgotten to change, so we recommend buying all the necessary Citroen spare parts in advance at Favorable prices and simplicity will make the purchase simple and enjoyable.

So, on the lever there is a seat where the needle bearing is pressed. The shaft (axle) of the rear beam is called a pin. The lever is put on the beam.The needle bearing allows the arm to "swing" on the rear beam. Torsion bars and stabilizer keep the lever flexible.

The rear beam provides good handling and comfort. Despite the fact that it is massive and durable, the part is subject to breakage and damage.

• "House" on the rear wheels (tires touch the wheel arches - urgent repair of the rear beam is needed;
• audible clicks when the suspension is operating on uneven roads.

The main cause of rear beam failure is excessive bearing run or fluid entering the linkage. As a result, corrosion and rust appears, accelerating the wear of the rollers. Other reasons include:

• improper operation of the vehicle;
• low-quality manufacturing of rear beam parts (bearings, pins, levers);
• structural damage resulting from an accident.

Timely replacement of the needle bearing helps prevent the restoration of the Citroen Berlingo rear beam. Otherwise, due to the damaged bearing, the finger (axle, shaft) of the rear beam is erased; water begins to pass through, the oil seal becomes unusable. Only fingers can be replaced during the repair process. This is not a bad option. A much worse situation is considered to be a failure in the functioning of the balancers (pendulums and levers) of the rear beam of the car. This happens less often, when in a "neglected" case.

• dismantling the rear beam;
• removal of parts in turn: drum, bearing, plate, torsion bars;
• determining which of the parts is defective (bearings, fingers, lever in its seat, etc.);
• replacement of damaged parts. New parts are selected according to the appropriate dimensions. For example, the pin diameter should be the same as the bearing bore;
• assembly of the structure in the reverse order.

In order not to get dust and water, the parts are "put" on the sealant. Before applying the sealant, the mating surfaces are thoroughly wiped; they must be clean and dry.

We will show you how you can replace the front shock absorbers on your own in cars PEUGEOT Partner (Peugeot Partner), CITROEN Berlingo (Citroen Berlingo). All repair work is carried out by a professional auto mechanic, in accordance with the technical regulations of the automaker. The actions are shown in as much detail as possible, from beginning to end, filmed by the operator in good quality. You can easily repeat this repair in your garage using a standard set of tools. Remember to bleed before installing new shock absorbers.

Video of replacing front shock absorbers in CITROEN Berlingo and PEUGEOT Partner:

Backup video of replacing front shock absorbers at Citroen Berlingo and Peugeot Partner:

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VASILIY13 20 Nov 2013

Good health to all members of the forum,

Finally, after buying a hippo, there was time for a suspension diagnosis.

Auto М59, 2011,1,4, 87t, km City operation. I drove to the station - the result is as follows:

the right strut of the shock absorber has already leaked a little (it was replaced by the old owner of 10t, km, back - the manufacturer is unknown but deshovaya - according to the former owner)

Rear normal (moved 60t.km with replacement of needle bearings and beam cushions)

The question is. In addition, you need to replace something else so that you do not make convergence again after a short time. Which racks are better to take gas or oil and which company. The original (expensive), kayaba, monroe are available. Is it worth changing the ball joints right away or do they cost 120-150 thousand?

Who has any practical knowledge of front suspension endurance?

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afanyr 20 Nov 2013

Good health to all members of the forum,

Finally, after buying a hippo, there was time for a suspension diagnosis.

Auto М59, 2011,1,4, 87t, km City operation. I drove to the station - the result is as follows:

the right strut of the shock absorber has already leaked a little (it was replaced by the old owner of 10t, km, back - the manufacturer is unknown but deshovaya - according to the former owner)

Rear normal (moved 60t.km with replacement of needle bearings and beam cushions)

The question is. In addition, you need to replace something else so that you do not make convergence again after a short time. Which racks are better to take gas or oil and which company. The original (expensive), kayaba, monroe are available. Is it worth changing the ball joints right away or do they cost 120-150 thousand?

Who has any practical knowledge of front suspension endurance?

If you want to change and forget, then change everything: struts, supports, ball bearings, salen blocks, intermediate support bearing, steering tips. Everything is enough for that.

The declared mileage is doubtful. Very much worn. Rear beam cushion.

By firms, read the forums. Everything is chewed. I put KAYABA-butter. I like it.

Racks are changed in pairs. Probably a taxi car with a shitty rider, it goes, okay.

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zaha_ Nov 21, 2013

I am in three cars during the run

60 t.km changed the front struts, two wheel bearings and silent blocks.

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VASILIY13 21 Nov 2013

If you want to change and forget, then change everything: struts, supports, ball bearings, salen blocks, intermediate support bearing, steering tips. Everything is enough for that.

The declared mileage is doubtful. Very much worn. Rear beam cushion.

By firms, read the forums. Everything is chewed. I put KAYABA-butter. I like it.

Racks are changed in pairs. Probably a taxi car with a shitty rider, it goes, okay.

Thank you all for your participation. I also tend to kayaba maslo.Po rear beam - they did lifting the body with torsion bars, respectively, with the parsing of the levers, the bearings were absolutely normal but decided to change (since it would not be superfluous).

The original mileage is 99.9 percent, it was used for work, transportation of the driver, and as a family car, the mileage is mostly cad, fishing trips (hence the desire to increase the ground clearance)

I bought it from friends, so they didn't even do the diagnostics.

Post has been editedVASILIY 13:21 November 2013 - 07:00

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Carrie Jocobs Dec 12, 2013

Repair on the right side of the car. I loosened the torsion bar and decided to start directly by removing the hub - I unscrewed / broke off the rotten brake pipe on the caliper, drained the brake fluid.

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afanyr 21 Oct 2015

I found it on DRIVE. Maybe something will work out:

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afanyr 13 Apr 2016

In general, on the topic of suspension. Everything lies in heaps. I went over a year ago, did not travel very much. For replacement: front struts, left wheel bearing, stabilizer struts, rear silent blocks, ball joints. The drive has an intermediate bearing. In principle, nothing complicated. But really, too, I took care of the rear silent block. Rather, as a clamp to remove. Silenblocks were bought reinforced from aluminum. There were CORTEKO. They collapsed literally in a few thousand.

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afanyr 18 Apr 2016

Assembling the front suspension.

New journal bearings. New front gas-oil struts DELPHI. New salenblocks. Reinforced aluminum rear. New TEKNOROT ball joints. Left SNR hub. New stabilizer struts. New stabilizer bushings. The plugs changed for two hours. You unscrew the front bolt. Bend the staple with the assembly upward as much as possible. Then you knock the old bushing out through the subframe. A new one must be installed in advance, having coated it with soapy water and guided by the protrusions on the elastic band. After that, it will not be possible to pull off - the bracket is bent. A long hairpin is taken by 8 mm and the clamp and the subframe are pulled together without the salenblock until it stops. The clamp is bent in revenge and then the native bolt is inserted. Everything.

By the way, I went over and lubricated the floating bracket in the caliper. She was wedged. The inner block has worn off to zero, and the outer one is like new.

The brake pads were supplied by PILENGA. Reviews 50/50. Price RUB 600 I know my acquaintances didn’t complain. Let's see, unsubscribe.

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defekt 18 Apr 2016

And what about the luminescent silencers, did the stabilizer bush bracket normally snuggle? And then a couple of years ago I bought the levers assembly, tired of the ball and silent change every year. These levers still go (t-t-t), but I want to put reinforced luminescent silent blocks on those.

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afanyr 18 Apr 2016

Everything fell as usual. The new stabilizer bushings are very small inside and have a ribbed structure. The installed and tightened stabilizer in the bushings does not turn, at least not yet. The silent blocks themselves got up normally, nothing needs to be altered. You just need to replace the M8 bolt with M10. I shortened the bolt that came with the ball. Its length should be a maximum of 20 mm, otherwise it will start to rest against the rubber.

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bahh 18 Apr 2016

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afanyr 19 Apr 2016

Do not know. I have these included with the ball. It is with this thread. Black is like that.

Post has been editedafanyr on: 19 April 2016 - 09:50

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afanyr 21 Apr 2016

In general, the second day I ride. Finally, nothing rattles from the front. Now you can hear that the cabin is dangling.

1. The box is working. So I put it together correctly.

2. Nothing flows. Also happy.

3. The front rose by 4 cm. I don’t know why. New only racks. Well, plus all the rubber bands, ball.

The new racks are not clear yet. On the one hand, it's gotten harder. True, I put summer tires and compare them with winter ones. But the machine seems to have become more felling. Racks DELPHI COMFORT. Well, we need to drive further along the highway. The pads are not clear yet either. The brakes are good, but it seems that the effort on the pedals is more. Well, we'll get used to the disks, we'll see.

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bahh Apr 21, 2016

The front rose by 4 cm. I don’t know why. New only racks.

It is possible that the support for the spring on the rack is located in a different place.

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afanyr 21 Apr 2016

No, I was comparing old and new. Sizes are one to one.

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afanyr 24 Apr 2016

I drove about 600 km. The pads are worn down a bit. I like. Firstly, they are completely silent. Secondly, at first they are soft, then they grab tightly. They start to slow down at the slightest touch of the disk.

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afanyr 04 May 2016

New impressions of the brake pads. I like. I drove about 1000 km. Completely silent. The brakes are soft. With a stationary pedal, efficiency increases rapidly. First, the brakes grab, then as the temperature rises, the pads seem to stick to the disc and braking is intensified.

I repeat the PILENGA pads. They cost about 600 rubles.

• Rear wheel bolts
• Rear wheels
• Center console

• Display (3)
• Rear suspension springs
• Rear shock absorbers

From each side :

• Disconnect: Parking brake cable (4) (B "c")
• Disconnect the parking brake cable (4) (B "b", "a")
• Disconnect the parking brake cable (4) from its guides

From each side :

• Disconnect: Rear wheel sensor connector (5) (B "d")
• Disconnect the rear wheel sensor wiring harness (5) (B "e", "f")
• Disconnect hydraulic pipe (6) (B "g") (Provide collection of escaping brake fluid)
• Plug holes in parts

From each side :

• Move the tool [3] under the points of the rear axle (B "h")
• Hold the tool [3] on the rear axle (B "j")

• Install the mounting studs [4] ((place the supports under the suspension spring cups at "l"))
• Install the spacers available in the shop (in "m") between the tool [3] and the tools [5] and [6]

3. Installation

From each side :

• Unscrew the bolt (8)
• Move the tool [3] under the points of the rear axle (B "h")
• Hold the tool [3] on the rear axle (B "j")
• Use the pads at hand (in "m") so that the rear axle is in a horizontal position

• bolts (7) to a torque of 11.5 ± 1.1 da.Nm
• The bolts (8) to a torque of 11.5 ± 1.1 da.Nm

From each side :

• Reinstall the plugs (B "h")
• Connect: The pipe of the hydraulic system (8) (B "f"); Tighten to a torque of 1.5 ± 0.3 da.Nm
• Clip in the rear wheel sensor harness (9) (B "e")
• Connect: Rear wheel sensor connector (9) (B "d")
• Fasten the parking brake cable (4) in its guides
• Connect the parking brake cable (4) (B "b", "a")
• Connect the parking brake cable (4) (B "c")

Install:

• Rear shock absorbers
• Rear suspension springs
• Display (3)

Install :

• Rear wheels
• Rear wheel bolts

• Center console
• Car on his wheels

Tighten the rear wheel bolts:

• Aluminum rim: Tightening torque 9 ± 9 2 da.Nm
• Forged steel wheel rim: Tightening torque 11 ± 11 2 da.Nm

A detailed step-by-step story on how to change the rear beam bearings for a Citroen Berlingo Fest at home!

There is a puller. screw it into the torsion bar and knock out

SNR is the original no doubt about it !!

Yak remember the burst torso livy i yak vistaviti shhob bulo is the same right and left wheel

well done guys, very informative.

ENGLISH KEYWORD PLIIS NO UNDERSTAND HEBREA

Why was it premature to disassemble if there were no knocks and backlashes? it's not a timing belt to change mileage

Class! today I put the car on stumps, sprinkled all the nodes with a bucket. tomorrow I will try to shoot.

Don't you have two torsion bars? It seems that each wheel should have its own.

Having looked carefully once again, I saw the drilling in the bearing cage

Please tell me how grease gets through the bearing race. Thank you.

Thanks for the detailed nuances. The video was very useful. He explained everything clearly and easily. It helped with the repair.

Following. CITROEN BERLINGO. REPLACING THE REAR BEAM BEARINGS at home. Citroen Berlingo beam repair - Duration: AutoVam 25,191 views.

beams Peugeot Partner (Citroen Berlingo) Peugeot Familiar fable about Berlingo. An excellent car in all respects, but the biggest problem is that the coordinator (milling machine) is not about the size and the bearing is not sashol by hand)).

Citroen Berlingo rear beam repair, Full. repair of the rear beam of the Citroen Berlingo. Peugeot 106 beam bushings. Citroёn Berlingo rear beam.

The bearings themselves are miniature, the needle rollers are thin. When you go, a creak is heard from behind, as if the rubber is rubbing. We have an intelligent master, instead of bearings, put caprolon bushings in the rear beam. If you have diagnosed the assembly and found that its condition allows for repair, you need to buy a special kit for repairing the rear beam. We put it on almost completely, then we insert the spacer sleeve into the lever and press the second bearing.

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