DIY repair of running brand

This section contains articles for the repair and maintenance of cars ZAZ-1102 Tavria, ZAZ-1103 Slavuta, ZAZ-1105 Dana, Tavria Nova... All materials contain step-by-step instructions for repair, photographs of the work done, advice on the selection of the necessary tools and the selection of quality spare parts.

The whole truth about the independent replacement of the side engine mount on cars ZAZ-1102 Tavria, ZAZ-1103 Slavuta

Not so long ago I watched one video on YouTube in which the guy told and showed, how the side (upper) engine mount changes on a ZAZ-1102 Tavria... What I remember when watching this video is that the author, having disassembled half of the car, says - “Changing this pillow is very simple and elementary!”. That's how it is! To remove the strut together with the steering knuckle, this means to unpress the steering tip finger, unscrew the ball joint bolt, unscrew the drive nut, and remove the caliper. And that's not all! Since, judging by the pile of sawdust under the car, the author's drive from the gearbox flew out and oil leaked from the gearbox. But these are all little things, right ?? And after that, you can say “simple and elementary”?

Maintenance and repair of the “tough nut” of the Ukrainian car industry is always interesting and fun! Well, what can you do if the car is designed in such a way that almost every repair of it is a test of the strength and character of the auto repairman. Even the most experienced! 😉 Don't agree with me? Okay, then let's go over the engine cushions of the ZAZ-1102 Tavria, ZAZ-1103 Slavuta and ZAZ-1105 Dana cars. Let's start, perhaps, with a description of the replacement of the lower pillows, and leave the side pillow "for dessert"! So let's go.

I continue the topic of car repair ZAZ 1102-1105... This material will include on the replacement of the shock absorber (insert cartridge, cartridge, liner) of the front strut of ZAZ-1102 Tavria, ZAZ-1103 Slavuta, ZAZ-1105 Dana... Therefore, if the front struts on your car are knocking and / or leaking, then this article should interest you. And if, at the same time, you decide to do all the work of removing, disassembling and repairing the racks with your own hands, then in this case it will be correct to say - I recommend reading it. In any business, even in the simplest and most understandable, difficulties and unpleasant surprises can arise that make a person nervous and significantly increase the time spent on work. Is that bad!

Replacement of the upper support of the shock absorber strut of the front suspension of the car ZAZ-1102 Tavria, ZAZ-1103 Slavuta, ZAZ-1105

Hello again, dear Tavriyveda and Slavutavody!))) Meet another article on repairing the miracle of the Ukrainian automotive industry. More specifically, the speech in this material will go on the replacement of the upper support of the shock-absorbing strut of the front suspension of cars ZAZ-1103 Slavuta, ZAZ-1102 Tavria and ZAZ-1105 Dana... I can tell right away that there is nothing complicated in the work of replacing the upper supports. Therefore, if there is a desire to do everything on your own, then you can safely get down to business. The main thing is to know the order of work, try to find quality spare parts and prepare the necessary tools. And we can say that half the job is done! But, in the meantime, let's determine the reasons why, or upon the appearance of which, it is necessary to change the upper supports.

On your beloved Tavria, the front hub bearing hummed? Do you want to replace the bearing with your own hands, but do not know how to do it right? You ask yourself - what tool is needed for this job? If yes. Then you have come to the right place. This article should answer all these questions.As a last resort, I hope so. And I will try the whole process of work on replacing the bearing of the front hub on the car ZAZ-1102 Tavria, ZAZ-1103 Slavuta, ZAZ-1105 It is given to describe as detailed and understandable as possible... Plus, I will give a list of the necessary tools and recommendations for the selection of bearings. In general, I will do my best to make this material useful to you. So.

I found! Yes, after all, I found a part on Tavria that can be removed-put-replaced more easily and faster than a similar part on cars of other brands. Well, of course, on those machines where this part is provided. For example, on cars of the family Vaz 2101-2107 Zhiguli and Vaz 2108-2115 Lada... The speech, as you guessed from the title of the article, is about stove (heater) tap... I think that many site visitors are aware of how “convenient and fun” the work on replacing a leaking stove tap with a 99 or Vaz-2115 is going on. Things are a little better, with similar work, on the immortal Classics - it takes less time to replace the stove tap than on the 99th, but you still have to show certain body plasticity and manual dexterity. It is quite possible that the VAZ designers decided - if there is a stove tap, then it must be in a secret and inaccessible place. And the point!

What part of the car is one of the first to fail when cold weather sets in? I suggest, the correct answer is stove (heater) radiator... I think you will agree with me. You can, of course, recall the sour (current) stove tap, the oak (burst) pipes of the cooling radiator, the radiator itself, or finally the thermostat. But, all of them are inferior to the primacy bar to the stove radiator))). Legendary Ukrainian Tavria and Slavuta is no exception. The problem with the leaking stove is familiar to them. True, I can immediately please and reassure the happy owners of ZAZ 1102-1105, if the carpets in the cabin become wet with antifreeze or you have installed such a device under the torpedo as in photo number one, then you should not be very upset.

Stud for fastening the front wheel on the car Tavria, Slavuta it changes quite simply, but not very quickly. To replace it, you will have to do the same steps as with replacing the front brake pads... Only the pads do not need to be removed))). When the front brake disc is removed, it is not a problem to knock out the stud (or what is left of them), they are not pressed tightly. It is also easy to install, the main thing is to make sure that the cut on the head of the hairpin is correct. Photos 1 and 2 will tell you in more detail.

For a long time I have not written about the creation of the domestic auto industry, unfortunately or fortunately, discontinued, the car is a legend - ZAZ Tavria and Slavuta )). And that's bad…. But the time has come to correct the mistake. We meet an article on replacement of front brake pads on Tavria and Slavuta cars... And I'll tell you, this process is quite entertaining. Perhaps you have already changed (or know how to do it) the front brake pads on Lanos, Nine or Classic and think that you can handle Tavria with the same ease. I can say for sure that the "easy walk" will not work. Since here you will come across the fruits of the exuberant imagination of Ukrainian engineers. And it seems to me that these guys were not looking for easy ways. Am I wrong? Then I invite you to further reading the article in which you will get acquainted with the design front brake caliper Tavria and with the process itself brake pad replacement.

Motorist Rule Number Three: Don't listen to the chassis in winter!
You’ll get off your sum.
The first two are about DDD.

An article for those who do not have a professional stethoscope, for example:

Today I asked myself a question - why, when to shake the engine (real athletes pump hot, it's good that it's -1C on the street), from somewhere under the hood you can hear a (disgusting) friction sound. I decided to accomplish the feat and find what was making noise there. It does not bother much, but when braking, passengers get scared (almost to death).Moreover, such muck in the car was long enough, I did not try to fight, because I do not often go with passengers.

Well, today my conscience is still stuck, I decided to find a "brand-drum".

To begin with, I decided to test the hypothesis - if the engine is on three pillows, then when swinging expensive ones, it most likely touches something that got inside one of these pillows (on the ski).

It turned out that it seemed that the sound was not at all from below, but remembering that the speed of sound in metal is several times faster than in air, I decided not to trust my feelings and rummage around this very ski with a wire. Although you can't really find it there, you just need to remove the whole structure. And now it's very cold and wet. Well, okay, by swinging the engine from the bottom of the car, I made sure that the sound was not from the lower pillows. I similarly checked the clutch drives, and so on.

Well, since the most difficult thing was already behind me, I decided to look at the Tavria's internal combustion engine from above and very closely. The case-cover of the air filter was again dangerously close to the glass amplifier, which is installed by every self-respecting owner of a small car. But when rocking, the lid did not touch anything.
I continued my inspection further, I decided to push the engine in the transverse and longitudinal directions. It turned out that it was noisy only in the longitudinal direction. It was already more fun. For everyone, he crawled under the oil filter with his hand. Not him. Distances sea.

And so, according to the "law of meanness", in the end I decided to look at the side pillow. She was okay. But a real chaos was going on nearby. The fact is that the engine of a car "Tavria" is hung out on three supports, more precisely, on the eyes. One of them is attached near the trampler, in fact - for the body of its drive. The second is to be in the immediate vicinity of the generator.

And the third? The third mysterious designers "Tavria" thrust into the place where they thought it would be least likely to be unscrewed under the influence of vibration. Have you already guessed where the third eyelet is? Right! Under the side cushion attachment. It actually unscrewed, and under the influence of vibrations shifted into close proximity to the body.

Actually, I did not want to unscrew the air filter at all, I put the eyelet in place with the help of a crowbar, or rather the handle of a universal (gas) key No. 1. The noise stopped.

From this conclusion. If something is noisy in "Tavria", this is not necessarily some expensive unit, just inspect all the places where the internal combustion engine and its attachments are in the immediate vicinity of the body. This rule will save you a lot of money.

PS. On the benefits of the logbook, - today I picked up the notes to determine when my hands got to this "ear" for the last time. It turned out that recently - 4 months ago. And the noise was a long time ago. Even before this movement. From which the conclusion suggests itself - it seems that when moving, this very ear walks left and right, here is the effect of now appearing and then disappearing noise. It will be necessary to remove the lid.

Well, and literature: "Tavria" - a repair manual, this is not the last thing.

The Tavria car (ZAZ-1102) became the first three-door hatchback of the Zaporozhye Automobile Plant. The car has been produced since 1988, has undergone several modifications. Hundreds of thousands of Tavriyas are still in operation.

The car is generally reliable, its repairs are not difficult. There are several problem areas that repairmen deal with the most. The engine does not cause much trouble, especially if the owner takes good care of it, constantly diagnoses it, and regularly undergoes maintenance.

Most of the problems arise with the "Tavria" carburetor, which needs to be constantly adjusted. When preventing the carburetor, you can be guided by the book "SOLEKS Carburetors", which describes all the procedures. Dismantling (you need to do it carefully), adjusting the gaps, grinding the deformed base of the flange presents difficulties. After prophylaxis of the carburetor, the car starts up better, the suction works well, fuel economy is visible.

Frequent repairs are considered to be the elimination of defects caused by rust, metal decay. In "Tavriya" such vulnerabilities are sills, wheel arches, bottom of doors. The metal of these body parts (0.8 mm thick) is rather thin, it is difficult to weld it with an electrode, it requires a lot of experience of the welder. In case of large damage, it is easier to buy a wing for disassembly. In the threshold with large defects, pieces of thin metal are welded in, patches are applied.

Other body repairs:
• straightening;
• enhanced anti-corrosion treatment;
• replacement of thresholds, arches;
• installation of wing liners - it is better to entrust specialists.

Gearbox repairs are complex jobs and are difficult to carry out on your own. The mechanism itself is quite simple, well mastered. Its current, major repairs are done at almost any service station. Scarce spare parts can be found at auto dismantlers, in the same place there are often operational gearbox assemblies.

Controls, door locks, dashboard, heating, tailgate - as a rule, are reliable, no repairman intervention is required. The condition of domestic roads makes the undercarriage repairs topical. First of all, the struts and stabilizer bushings wear out. The resource of other suspension elements of "Tavria": ball bearings, shock absorbers, silent blocks - is also not too large, they need to be replaced regularly.

Proponents of the new often upgrade the car, improve interior lighting, weak headlights, and put new wheels. With good care, careful operation, garage storage - "Tavria" looks like new, has served its owner for many years.

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Serioga
follow my butt, turn over the hodovka, tse YEAR !!
Yak there are "chandeliers" on the front stiykah live ?? You should die for your call. I like in myself minus a few tsdniv back, still a little more bearing, and then like trochas weakly from the factory of rolling buv.

spacers tries not becoming. from them there are more minus nіzh plusіv, one of which іz іх installation porush the factory castor (longitudinal nahil the king pin), but the price is not harasso.

ps: half of the tails is not necessary to show, otherwise Cream will fine you, for breaking TB

diagnostics and repair of chassis Zaz-Slavut, (tavriya.nova)

Running Vaz for Tavria! How to put Running Vaz on Tavria. In this video I will show what a Vaz chassis is.

Suspension VAZ 2108, Opel torpedo, Opel stove, VAZ rail, Amortization 2110, CV joint 2108, ball 2108., steering tip.

I recommend changing the ball joints on Tavria, Slavuta cars only for the factory and a couple.

How I made my car.

How the steering rack knocks on Tavria, Slavuta.

Replacing the front wheel bearing Tavria-Slavuta.

you can do everything yourself, watch on the maysternya tv channel.

VAZ chassis (brakes) for Tavria ZAZ 1102.

Preset suspension from VW AUDI, in front of 14 ″ 256 mm valve support cylinder 56 mm, rear disc by 240 mm with mechanical.

Self-diagnosis of the chassis. The suspension knocks on the bumps. What can knock on the suspension. How.

Installation of the Lanos chassis on the Tavria car, in particular, the installation of the brake system, namely the caliper.

For beginners in the auto business. How to diagnose the front suspension of the car. Those who have recently bought a car are wondering. How is it.

Ball joints Tavria and Slavuta factory, self-made, Chinese and others. How do they differ from each other.

TURBO Brakes. We treat the brakes on a turbo. Vaz chassis for brand. There was a beating during braking, identification.

Most recently, I installed the brakes from the Lanos, and I am completely satisfied, now the car brakes like a car, and not.

An adapter was made for installing a brake caliper and a 256 mm disc on a hub with a 4X100 formula from VAG for.

advice, if you are interested, then it will be possible to run the shortened version on buckets, basins and old foreign cars.

Communication, commercial inquiries: Help channel: PrivatBank 5168 7556 3188 1725, WMZ Z318291300563, WMU.

Suspension tuning zaz tavria 1102.

Prospective, sequential installation of the chassis VAZ 2108 on Tavria WRS Mashenka. Contacts: 0504520617, 0675398459.

the weld-on of the spacer bars always gives an excellent result.

Steering rack for Tavria and Slavuta from different manufacturers and different quality. Details shown in the video.

In the video, Slavuta's car, on it we change the lower supports, crab silent blocks, the right engine mount, as well.

My partner Sasha Kulibin's channel Guys subscribe and learn a lot of new repairs.

improvement of brakes of Tavria brake system from Lanos on Tavria.

Tavria valve adjustment .. Tavria valve adjustment without TDC and camshaft pulley degrees! Tavria.

Serioga
follow my butt, turn over the hodovka, tse YEAR !!
Yak there are "chandeliers" on the front stiykah live ?? You should die for your call. I like in myself minus a few tsdniv back, still a little more bearing, and then like trochas weakly from the factory of rolling buv.

spacers tries not becoming. from them there are more minus nіzh plusіv, one of which іz іх installation porush the factory castor (longitudinal nahil the king pin), but the price is not harasso.

ps: half of the tails is not necessary to show, otherwise Cream will fine you, for breaking TB

Rice. 76. Front suspension assembly with a propeller shaft (left side):
1 - support; 2 - thrust bearing; 3 - nut; 4 - body cup; 5 - cap; 6 - upper support travel stop; 7 - gasket; 8 - support spring cup; 9 - buffer; 10 - spring; 11 - cover; 12 - special washers; 13 - special bolt; 14 - nut for fastening a shock absorber with a steering knuckle; 15 - clamping bolt of the terminal connection; 16 - rotary fist; 17 - lower hinge; 18 - bolt; 19 - nut for fastening the lower hinge; 20 - ball pin; 21 and 22 - respectively lower and upper inserts; 23 - lever; 24 - jet rod; 25 - bracket; 26 - body cross member; 27 - towing eye; 28 - reaction rod fastening nut; 29 - washer; 30 - reactive rod silent block; 31 - amortization rack; 32 - steering rod; 33 - silent block of the lever; L - the gap with technically sound suspension parts should be no more than 10 mm

I - front wheel hub assembly with a propeller shaft:
1 - ball bolt (terminal connection); 2 - ball joint pin; 3 - bearing retaining ring; 4 - mud deflector of the steering knuckle; 5 - hub mud deflector; 6 - flange mounting bolt; 7 - hub nuts; 8 - washer; 9 - hub flange; 10 - hub; 11 - steering fist; 12 - hub bearing; 13 - intermediate washer; 14 - mud deflector of the steering knuckle; 15 - internal dirt deflector; 16 - articulated shaft; a - places where the nut is locked by pressing the nut skirt into the grooves of the shaft.
II - ball joint of the front suspension strut:
1 - crimp ring; 2 - protective insert; 3 - clamp; 4 - case; 5 - lower insert; 6 - plug; 7 - spring; 8 - thrust washer; 9 - ball pin; 10 - upper insert.

Rice. 77. Devices of the day of disassembly and assembly of the front suspension strut:
a - a device of special manufacture; b - a device made on the basis of a VAZ car jack: 1 - amortization strut; 2 - device.

Rice. 78. Shock absorbers:
a - shock absorber of the front suspension strut; b - rear suspension shock absorber; 1 - reservoir nut; 2 - cuff; 3 - guide sleeve; 4 - cylinder; 5 - reservoir; 6 - stock; 7 - recoil stroke buffer; 8 - limiting plate; 9 - a restraining ring; 10 - throttle disc of the recoil valve; 11 - recoil valve disc; 12 - thrust plate; 13 - bypass valve spring; 14 - bypass valve plate; 15 - piston; 16 - piston ring; 17 - compression valve spring; 18 - compression valve body; 19 - compression valve cage; 20 - body spring; 21 - plate; 22 - throttle disc of the compression valve; 23 - compression valve disc; 24 - case; compression valve; 25 - eyelet; 26 - restrictive plate of the bypass valve; 27 and 29 - stem gland clips; 28 and 30 - oil seals; 31 - stuffing box spring /

Rice. 79. Scheme of the shock absorber:
a - valve parts; b - compression stroke; в - the course of recoil; 1 - bypass valve plate; 2 - a plate of the compression valve; 3 - throttle disc of the recoil valve; 4 - recoil valve discs; 5 - throttle disc of the compression valve; 6 - compression valve discs.

Rice. 80. Details of the front suspension:
1 - protective cap; 2 - buffer clip; 3 - shock absorber assembly; 4 - silent block of the lever; 5 - lever fastening nut; 6 - lever; 7 - ball joint; 8 - nut for attaching the ball joint to the steering knuckle; 9 - bolt fastening the shock absorber to the steering knuckle; 10 - bolt for adjusting the camber angle and fastening the shock absorber; 11 - jet rod; 12 and 23 - washers; 13 - suspension spring; 14 - protective cover; 15 - compression buffer and bushing; 16 - support cup; 17 - bearing; 18 - support of the rack; 19 - travel stop; 20 - gasket; 21 - shock absorber mounting nut; 22 and 25 - bracket mounting bolts; 24 - bracket with silent block; 26 - reaction rod fastening nut; 27 - compensation pad; 28 - silent block.

Rice. 81. Checking and adjusting the camber angle of the front wheel:
1 - fastening the rack to the steering knuckle; 2 - bolt for adjusting the camber angle and fastening the rack to the steering knuckle; 3 - amortization rack; 4 - plumb line; 5 - wheel disc; A and B are the distances between the wheel rim and the plumb line or angle.

Rice. 82. Checking and adjusting the divergence of the front wheels and the steering drive:
2 - the left wheel of the front suspension; 2 - steering gear; 3 - left coupler; 4 - right coupler; 5 - the right wheel of the front suspension; 6 - right swing arm; 7 - right lock nut; 8 - left lock nut; 9 - right steering rod; 10 - left steering rod assembly; 11 - left rotary lever; A is the size in front between the tires; B - the size at the back between the tires.

Frequent "breakdowns" of the suspension on uneven roads. The main malfunction is suspension spring settlement and shock absorber failure on the Compression stroke. Disassemble the suspension strut and replace the sagging spring;
- replace or repair the shock absorber.

Installation of a VAZ chassis on Tavria, Slavuta or a VAZ chassis on Tavria.

Also, the installation of the Lanos chassis on Tavria, Slavuta, an introductory article, I am not doing the alteration yet.

There are several options for the transition of Tavriy and Slavut to the VAZ chassis.

1st maximum use of Tavrichesky parts, namely:

The front fist Tavrichesky is cut off, a VAZ 2108 caliper bracket is attached to it,

The ZAZ hub is pressed out and the front wheel hub of the VAZ 2108 is pressed in, onto which the VAZ 2108 brake disc is screwed.

Standard fist ZAZ 1102

The cut fist ZAZ 1102 for the installation of the brake caliper 2108-2112

After cutting and installing the adapter, it is necessary to precisely align the axis of the contact of the brake pad with the disc!

On the rear brakes, grooving of drums, installation of special washers and studs for VAZ wheels.

The total budget for alterations: VAZ spare parts Calipers 650, hubs 400, discs 500, pads 100, hoses 50, front bearings 380, revision of rear drums 850 + work = 4700 UAH or more, depending on the condition of the car and spare parts.

2nd maximum use of VAZ parts.

The front brake knuckle assembly is screwed to the lever and shock absorber through spacers.

The rear brakes are also bolted to the beam through a spacer.

The total budget for alterations: VAZ spare parts, partially second-hand Fists assembled 1400, rear brakes UAH 800 = UAH 2400, spacers 1000 Work: 590 + 590 + sn-ust of struts 460 + modernization of struts 460 = 2000 UAH. Total UAH 3000., A set of new spare parts for VAZ 5500 UAH. All prices are basic and may vary depending on the condition of the vehicle.

The 3rd option is the same as the 2nd only the front ventilated brake disc VAZ 2110 or 2112 ventilated under 14 ″ wheels

These are the main options for "alterations for alterations to an eight-wheel chassis"

Spare parts necessary for alteration of the rear brake ZAZ 1102

On the drum brake VAZ 2108-2112 with a cable handbrake.

The rear brake Tavria Zaz 1102 from 2108 is installed on the car, tightening the brake mounting bolts, tightening force 40 Nm.

Installing the rear hub VAZ 2108

Before installation, the drum must be cleaned of preservative; you can use gasoline or brake cleaner.

To move the front wheel forward relative to the wheel arch, modified “crabs” from Rikkar are used.

Compared to the standard tuning crab, the wheel moves forward about 20 mm.

Sometimes it is useful to adjust with washers, and "castor" (longitudinal angle of inclination of the front wheel axis) is also regulated.

Brake cylinder VAZ 2108 for Tavria, drill at a diameter of 62 mm at an angle, adjust the free stroke of the rod, fill the brake fluid, bleed the system.

After installing all the elements of the brake system, it is necessary to drive into the computer camber of 4 wheels, it is noteworthy that the divergence of the front wheels is 1-3 mm.

Photo of a VAZ 2108 fist on a ZAZ 1102 rack

Modernization of the front pillar ZAZ 1102 for the installation of a fist VAZ 2108

The cost of work on alteration of the ZAZ 1102 suspension for the installation of VAZ 2108-2110 brakes and the installation of VAZ wheels.

Serioga
follow my butt, turn over the hodovka, tse YEAR !!
Yak there are "chandeliers" on the front stiykah live ?? You should die for your call. I like in myself minus a few tsdniv back, still a little more bearing, and then like trochas weakly from the factory of rolling buv.

spacers tries not becoming. from them there are more minus nіzh plusіv, one of which іz іх installation porush the factory castor (longitudinal nahil the king pin), but the price is not harasso.

ps: half of the tails is not necessary to show, otherwise Cream will fine you, for breaking TB

The Tavria car is agile, economical and excellent. Indeed, the design of this vehicle is not similar to the design of modern Western cars, this does not in the least affect the popularity of this brand. Some car owners are modernizing their "iron horse", for example, installing on Tavria chassis from VAZ .

You will need

1. There are several methods for installing a chassis from a VAZ on a Tavria car. Even a novice car enthusiast will be able to modernize his vehicle. Before everyone, cut the front "native" fist.

2. Attach the caliper bracket to the knuckle attachment point. Later, the front wheel hub, onto which the brake disc is screwed, and the ZAZ hub are pressed out. After cutting the adapter and installing it further, set the axis of contact of the disc with the brake shoe.

3. Perform groove drums, install special washers and studs prepared for VAZ wheels. The chassis from the VAZ is installed.

4. The second method of installing VAZ parts on a Tavria car looks like this: screw the front fist with the brake through the spacers to the shock absorber and the lever. Connect the rear brakes to the beam through the spacer.

5. The 3rd installation method is hefty similar to the 2nd one. An exceptional difference - the front ventilated brake disc VAZ 2112 or VAZ 2110 is ventilated under 14 ″ wheels.

6. In order to install spacers on Tavria glasses, you will need a spacer with an additional pillow: it is attached to the box.

7. In addition, the angle of inclination of the suspension pivot axis can be changed.This can be done with the help of a plan-washer attached to the upper support, welding of glasses in front, as well as a groove of the reaction rod. Such modernization of the car improves the stability of the vehicle when cornering, and also significantly increases the wear of the rubber.

Kits for replacing drum braking systems with disc ones appeared on the market. Their choice is so wide that it is allowed to make alterations for virtually any brand of car.

You will need

• - conversion kit;
• - a set of keys;
• - brake fluid;
• - flat screwdriver;
• - pliers.

1. Work on replacing brake systems is cooler than anyone else to carry out in the garage. Lift the car on a jack, remove the wheels on which you will make the brake alteration.

2. Remove the brake drums. They can come off easily, or they may not. If the drums cannot be removed so primitively, say, due to rust on their seats, take 2 M8 bolts and screw them into the threaded holes on the drum. They are located close to the hub seating collar. Having tightened the bolts, tighten them little by little with a spanner wrench of 13. Be diligent to make the tightening evenly, on the contrary, it is allowed to break the drum. Usually after a few turns of the key, the brake drum comes off its seat. In addition, excessively diluted brake pads can interfere with removing the drum. If a certain machine has a window for adjusting the brake pads, then use a flat screwdriver to remove the brake pads from the drum surface.

3. Now remove the hubs. In most cases, on self-suspended wheels, the hub is mounted on 4 bolts. Primitively, take a suitable socket wrench and unscrew the mounting bolts, then remove the hub together with the wheel bearing housing so that it does not interfere with the subsequent dismantling of the brake system.

4. Remove the brake pad retainer pins. To do this, press on the retainer plate and rotate it 90 degrees so that it is released from the pin lock. Remove the spring plate. Do the same for the entire brake pad.

5. Remove the brake pads. To do this, completely reduce the adjustment mechanism; on the contrary, it will be difficult for you to dismantle the tension spring. With the support of pliers, remove the tension spring, then remove one of the pads, to which nothing is attached to anything larger, then remove the second one. Disconnect the parking brakes by removing the retaining ring from the pin on the parking brake lever and pulling it out of the hole in the brake shoe. Do not lose the lower spring that pulls the pads from below.

6. Remove the end of the parking cable. brakes from the arm bracket. Unscrew the cable retaining bolt, the one that secures it to the rear plate of the brake system. Disconnect the brake pipe from the working cylinder. Remove the rear cymbal brakes .

7. Take the brake caliper holder from the disc brake kit, attach it to the rear wheel journal. Attach an apron to it.

8. Install the hub, fit the newest brake disc onto it.

9. Install the brake caliper bracket (remember to fit the springs and brake pads), then install the brake caliper.

10. Combine the brake caliper with the brake pipe. Install new parts on the 2nd side of the machine. Remove the parking cable brakes from the car.

11. Fill the brake cylinders with brake fluid and bleed the roads.

Related Videos

Automobile VAZ 2110 is one of the most famous AvtoVAZ models. This is not surprising, this tea machine is unpretentious and inexpensive to operate. However, many owners of "ten" are unhappy light ... This can be easily fixed by slightly modernizing the car.

You will need

• - new halogen lamps;
• - xenon;
• - new glass for the headlight;
• - the latest reflector;
• - the latest sealant;
• - screwdrivers;
• - spanners;
• - cotton gloves.

1. Wash your headlights. The accumulated dirt is often the main reason for the unexpected deterioration of headlights. If you do not want to constantly wipe the headlights, then install headlight washers. Start this option on VAZ 2110, unfortunately, is not staevat. Consequently, you will have to be a little inventor. For "ten" washers are absolutely suitable Volgov. Remove the bumper, drill holes, insert the washer modules into them, tightening them with bolts. Connect the hose to the washer fluid reservoir. Also connect the button in the cabin, which will control the work of the washers. Connect it only through a fuse.

2. Examine the integrity of the headlamp glass. If it's cracked, install a new one. To do this, dismantle the headlamp unit by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery in advance. Wash the headlight. Take a building hair dryer and turn it on at maximum power. Heat the edge of the headlamp glass in a smooth, circular motion to loosen the sealant. Pry the glass with a plastic screwdriver blade and remove it from the headlight. Remove old sealant from glass and headlamp housing. Degrease the body and edge of the new glass. Apply a coat of new sealant. Scrupulously press the glass against the headlight housing.

3. Replace reflector if worn is peeled off. To do this, you need to remove the glass from the case. Unscrew and remove the lamp. Unscrew the bolts holding the reflector from the back. Remove the worn reflector by releasing the latches. Install the newest one and reassemble the headlamp in reverse order.

4. Replace the factory bulbs with halogen bulbs. They shine much brighter. Also worth noting is their durability and economy. Instead of halogen lamps, it is allowed to install xenon. Xenon lamps come in different wattage, which determines the brightness of the glow. Install only those types of lamps that are recommended for use in your car model.

To modernize the braking ability of the car, the rear brakes are often altered by motorists. You can replace drum brakes with disc brakes for about every car model, if you have the necessary elements of the braking system and some skills.

You will need

• - rear brake discs;
• - brake pads;
• - Reinforced brake hoses;
• - keys and screwdrivers;
• - calipers;
• - brake fluid.

1. First, you need to prepare the car. To do this, lift the rear side with a jack and remove the wheels. After that, it is necessary to remove the brake drums, as well as the hubs, brake pads, and the parking brake cable. The brake hose is disconnected further from the hydraulic cylinder.

2. After dismantling the worn-out brake system, put the rear brake disc in the seat of the hub, then press in the wheel studs, and also tighten the wheel nuts. The brake disc must be completely seated in its seat - make sure of this in order to avoid permissible problems.

3. Then it is allowed to proceed to the installation of the caliper. Install it instead of the drum shield with a seat directly in the end part of the beam. After that, you need to insert the axle shaft and fasten everything with bolts. When installing the caliper bracket, pay attention so that it does not come into contact with the brake disc. Insert the brake pads into the caliper.

4. By the way, it is recommended to purchase brake pads of the same brand with brake discs. The fact is that any specific manufacturing company adjusts brake pads to the discs, releasing them, considering certain parameters, for example, size.

5. After that, you need to connect a reinforced brake hose, and then combine it with a metal tube. You make the connection by means of a special bolt - fitting. Reinforced hoses are preferable to use, because they advantageously differ from rubber ones in that they do not stretch, do not swell. The rubber hose can break, which, in turn, will lead to the inevitable loss of brake fluid.

6. Install the handbrake. At the end of the work on replacing the rear brakes, adjust their pressure so that the braking performance does not suffer.

Note!
When purchasing elements of the brake system, pay attention to the certificate, because the use of devices without a certificate is suppressed by the current Law of the Russian Federation.

Useful advice
Replacing brakes from drum to disc brakes is a rather solid connection to a car's device; therefore, it is recommended to entrust this work to specialists. They will not only replace the braking system with high quality, but also positively tune it.

In winter, motorists begin to experience discomfort from the cold temperature in the cabin. In addition to people, the engine of the car is also subjected to a heavy load, the one that during this period often begins to work intermittently and increases fuel consumption. This is due to an unsatisfactory coolant temperature.

You will need

• - a brass pipe from a VAZ 2108 or a brass pipe;
• - drill 10 mm;
• - drill;
• - solder and flux;
• - gas-burner.

1. Take an ordinary thermostat , the one that is used in the lower heating system of the car. A conventional thermostat has three total for nozzles for 2 circles of circulation - small, when starting and warming up the engine, and large, used while driving.

2. Make an additional pipe 15 mm long and 10 mm in diameter from a thin (1 mm thick) brass tube, or take a pipe from the VAZ 2108 thermostat. It is needed to drain coolant from the interior heater ("stove") not directly into the engine, but into the thermostat, as a result of which it will not cool down so rapidly.

3. Drill a hole neatly with a 10 mm drill bit closer to the junction of the 2 body elements, opposite to the branch pipe in the upper part of the thermostat. Prepare a gas torch, solder and flux. If you do not have the skills to solder brass products, then it is cooler to contact the experts for support - save time and money.

4. Clean and etch where the extension tube will be installed. Solder it. Flare the end part slightly to hold the coolant hose better. If a branch pipe from a VAZ 2108 is used, then this is not necessary.

5. Plug the hole on the body of the "pump" (water pump) where the interior heater hose is normally connected, so that cold coolant from its radiator does not immediately enter the engine. A different circle of its circulation will turn out, which will make it possible for the temperature to not have a large difference at the inlet and outlet.

6. Connect the retrofit thermostat to the cooling system in a conventional manner, using a sealant to prevent liquid seepage. Fill with coolant and check all connections for leaks.

7. Start and warm up the engine. Check the temperature of the coolant with a thermometer, it should be 78-80 degrees.

Note!
Changing the chassis is not an easy task, therefore, do not undertake this work without assistants!

Useful advice
Do not forget to buy special adapters for altering the chassis (they are sold both in car dealerships and at service stations).