DIY refrigerator repair lg no frost 372

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the lg no frost 372 refrigerator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

LG refrigerators have taken a leading position in this segment of technology. The company is considered a global center for innovation. All brands of refrigerators from two-door to sophisticated French and American series are made soundly, stylish design. There are almost no malfunctions of LG refrigerators during the warranty period. Often, repairs are associated with voltage drops in the network - the electronics cannot withstand. When buying a modern refrigerator model, you need to take care of installing it through a voltage stabilizer.

LG refrigerators last a long time. However, technology tends to fail over time. From the first day of operation, you need to take care of the electronic control unit and the compressor, especially the inverter one. Electronic configuration of the program requires attention. Step-by-step instructions are provided in the corresponding section of the documentation for the device.

Some models are noted in reviews as unnecessarily noisy. Part of the reason lies in the build quality at sites scattered around the world. However, the correct leveling, tightening the fasteners with your own hands, and standard ventilation gaps will partially eliminate the noise of the LG refrigerator. Repair is required when extraneous knocking, whistling or strong heating of the compressor is added to the noise.

Breakage is considered if one of the refrigerator chambers has ceased to maintain a given mode. Ice has appeared in the freezer or freezing temperatures are observed in a cold cabinet. There may be several reasons:

failures in the automatic regulation system;
failure of temperature sensors;
faulty relays;
refrigeration circuit problem associated with freon leakage or compressor failure;
malfunction of the solenoid valve in a single-compressor double-chamber apparatus.

Video (click to play).

Malfunction of the No Frost system of the LG refrigerator will let you know by a violation of the temperature regime, icing inside the cooling chamber. The air cooling system for products is complex and balanced. The complex includes an evaporator, from which cold air is blown into the freezer by a fan. Then the gas flows through the air valve to the heating of the positive chamber. Problems may be related to:

the temperature sensor in the evaporator or chambers has failed;
the fan stopped working due to icing or motor failure;
heating element does not work;
air valve not adjusted.

The appearance of ice in the freezer, "fur coats" in the refrigerator indicates a possible malfunction in the condensate drainage circuit.

Refrigerators of this series are characterized by two compartments operating from one compressor. In this regard, a magnetic valve is used that directs the refrigerant flow cyclically and alternately into the chambers. If the solenoid valve for switching modes is "stuck", then the temperature in the freezer will decrease and rise at the top. The unit is not being repaired; valve replacement is required.

Such malfunctions are typical for refrigerators, when on one compressor the mode in the chambers is independent, there are 2 control buttons. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to change the regime, with a deviation from the average values, in case of emergency and not for long.

The apparatus of the Russian assembly, two-chamber, with a "no frost" system, a large freezer at the bottom - has gained popularity in Russian families. Full Know Frost, height 188, bottom freezer, LED backlighting and trouble-free operation for more than ten years - this is how users characterize the device.

The remote control with push-button switching of modes signals about deviations on the Freeze Temp display.After turning off the power, all settings are set to the middle position. The electronic module is located in the upper part under the decorative panel. The built-in self-test mode can be manually activated, testing all systems will take 2 hours.

Typical malfunctions found during diagnostics:

the second light on the left indicates an open or short circuit in the freezer sensor;
the fourth light on the left is on - defrost sensor malfunction;
all the lights are on - No Frost is not working.

If ice is found under the bottom shelf of the freezer, the condensate drain system is clogged. To clean it, you will need to remove the decorative lining and find the drain hole. You can defrost the tube yourself. For all manipulations, the refrigerator must be de-energized.

If Know Frost works, the sensors are working properly - problems in the cooling circuit. Only a master can check the amount of freon, whether there is a passage in the capillary tube, the compressor's performance.

Model in silver color with linear inverter compressor, height 200 cm. Multi-stream cooling system and Know Frost are used. Electronic control with self-diagnostics.

Analysis of equipment failures before the end of the warranty period shows that the model is reliable and rarely gets repaired. The main causes of breakdowns:

the starting relay does not work;
the electronic control unit burned out;
the temperature sensor has failed;
the sealing rubber is worn out.

Most often, problems arise in switching the operating modes of two circuits or in the incorrect operation of the Nou Frost system. The inverter motor has a 10-year manufacturer's warranty. Continuous operation of the sealed circuit allows you to save pipe connections from starting shocks and vibrations, preventing freon leakage.

Model with a mirrored front surface, two-compartment, with a bottom freezer. Compressor one. Electronic control. Defrosting of the upper chamber is automatic, of the lower one - manual.

Refrigerators malfunctions are related to their design:

does not keep the freezer or refrigerator mode;
an ice coat is growing in the refrigerating chamber;
water accumulates under the drawers of the refrigerator;
puddles are on the floor under the refrigerator.

If the mode in the chambers is violated, one of the temperature sensors may have failed. Another reason is often a malfunction of the bypass solenoid valve. The temperature in the refrigerator can be high due to a loose door closing, worn out sealing rubber. Sometimes the contact is broken, the light in the cell is on even when the door is closed.

If you have done everything that the instructions prescribe, it remains to call the wizard. He will establish the reasons. In addition to the listed malfunctions, there may be:

Freon leak from the damaged circuit;
malfunction of the compressor or engine start relay;
blockage of the compressor tube.

The signs of problems are similar, and only a specialist can find and fix the breakdown.

Two-compartment refrigerator, beige with a quiet inverter compressor and a Nou Frost full defrost system. The freezer compartment is located at the bottom. Electronic control, push-button display. No temperature display. The backlight is produced by an incandescent lamp.

Malfunctions of the LG refrigerator of this model and their elimination are not original. But using an inverter compressor removes problems with the refrigerant circuit. Isobutane used, capillary clogging unlikely. Radiator leaks are rare. Therefore, the circuit is reliable.

The Nou Frost system, the serviceability of temperature sensors and relays, and the removal of condensate can become problematic. A specialist can determine the exact reason why it is warm in the positive chamber and ice freezes in the freezer. It is the user's task to comply with the operating conditions.

We offer you to look at an overview of the LG refrigerator model.

A review of The Bodyguard starring Colin Farrell was supposed to appear on this site this morning. But, waking up closer to lunchtime to Jack Sparrow's shouting "Go to places, the dogs are garbage!", I walked sleepily to the refrigerator and found that the lazy cattle had stopped working.

My first thought was to run to the store for a new one, but I was stopped by the alarming roar of a hungry beast, coming from the depths of my stomach.

From the contents of the refrigerator thawed overnight in a warm state, only Bestuzhev could be consumed,

which I did not fail to do.

Having dined, I decided not to flog a fever and to think it over properly.

As a result, I didn’t run to any store, because after “Bestuzhev” my legs were treacherously braided. I just figured it would be nice to apply my colossal experience in installing, repairing and maintaining air conditioners to revive the old Whirlpool.

According to the good old tradition of previous repair publications, I try to do with the least amount of tools, since a fierce set of craft gadgets is rarely found in an average Russian family.

In today's opus, we need surprisingly little - the most ordinary tester, a pair of Phillips screwdrivers and basic knowledge from the school physics course.

I hope every reader of this article has this modest baggage.

By the way, do not be embarrassed if your broken refrigerator is not like the author's. The principle of operation and design of the No Frost single compressor system is identical on all models.

Step # 1 - check the compressor

The most expensive and technologically complex unit of any refrigerator is the compressor. In the event of a breakdown, Whirlpool can be safely thrown into the trash due to the high cost and inappropriateness of subsequent repairs.

Fortunately, the most expensive part of a refrigerator is incredibly easy to test.

We free the refrigerator and roll it away from the wall.

To remove the protective cover of the compressor, you need to unscrew the four bolts.

Compressor contact group.

The yellow / green wires are ground. Brown and blue, extending from the white braid, are powered from the mains. The black and second brown, going to the compressor, supply power to the compressor. Blue and black are already closed.

You don't need to be seven inches in the forehead to understand - to start the compressor in manual mode, it is enough to disconnect the contact group,

and with a piece of wire,

close the contacts of the two brown wires.

Then feel free to plug the plug into the outlet. If the compressor is silent, it's time to run to the store for a new refrigerator. If it works, go to step # 2, remembering to connect the contact group back, put the back cover on and slide the refrigerator into place.

Step # 2 - checking the fan

Since our old Whirlpool is a No Frost system, there is a fan in its design that drives cold air from the evaporator inside the freezer.

In any refrigeration equipment, the compressor supply circuit is always tied to the fan, so that if the latter fails, premature freezing of the evaporator tubes does not occur.

Open the freezer and remove the back wall with a fan.

There are only two contacts on it, to which you need to supply power.

You can use a broken cord from an old electrical appliance to supply power.

The polarity does not matter; in the worst case, the fan will spin in the opposite direction.

If, after energizing, the blades are spinning, go to step # 3. If not, we move to the spare parts store, the malfunction has been identified.

Step # 3 - checking the thermal fuse

So, take a close look at the freezer compartment.

It is quite easy to find the temperature fuse - a metal cylinder sealed in transparent plastic.

This fuse breaks when the evaporator defrost heater overheats. We disconnect the plug and check it with an ordinary tester.

From this, it can be indirectly concluded that the evaporator temperature sensor is also in order!

We put the fuse in place and assemble the freezer. It's time to move on to step # 4.

By the way, if the temperature fuse shows an open circuit, replacing it alone is not enough. It is necessary to figure out why the heating element is overheating. In most cases, the reason lies in the defrost timer, and therefore it will also be useful for you to familiarize yourself with the next point.

So, we checked almost all the components of the refrigerator, but we still did not find the problem. We climb into the refrigerator

and remove the control unit for cooling modes,

which contains a lighting lamp (left) and a thermostat with a timer (right).

For further manipulations, the electrical circuit of the refrigerator, which is glued on the back wall, will greatly help.

It can be seen from the diagram that there is nothing to break in the thermostat, while the timer is teeming with a set of connectors and closes the fan and compressor power circuits.

Fortunately, I have it mechanical. It is better to send the electronic timer to the service immediately for diagnostics.

Before removing the contacts from it, it is advisable to sign the color of the wires with a marker.

Now we are carefully studying the scheme. The red / brown wire from the thermostat should be shorted to the brown wire that supplies power to the compressor and fan.

We disassemble the timer by carefully removing the top cover from it.

Now the blue and brown ones are closed, the power to the compressor and the fan will not be supplied to the network when the refrigerator is turned on.

We turn the drive gear with a slot for a screwdriver a millimeter clockwise. The contact closes the red-brown and brown wires.

We assemble the temperature control unit and turn on the refrigerator. Working.

You can now fill the old man with food.

The malfunction turned out to be the simplest - the drive gear of the mechanical timer of the refrigerator was stuck.

As you can see, it is possible to make an initial diagnosis of a failed refrigerator at home. And if thanks to this manual you manage to fix it, the author's joy will be unlimited, and his hand will reach for ...

All the best, and see you again on the pages of the site, friends!

I'll start with general concepts, or rather, I'll tell you why in the refrigerator with the No Frost system, the cold disappears in the refrigerator compartment. If you have such a misfortune, then first of all pay attention to the freezer, or rather, how it freezes, if the food is not thawed, then most likely the problem is in the malfunctioning of the evaporator defrosting system. In order to make sure of this, you need to remove the front panel and get to the freezer itself, if I was right, then on the freezer evaporator, you will see a pile of ice, this method is suitable for those who urgently need to start the refrigerator, but for those who are not limited by time , I can offer one more diagnostic method. The second method is much easier, but this will take at least 3 days, in general, you need to do the following procedure

Feel the sides of the case → if they are hot, then it is clearly not a matter of freon leakage, and in this case, you can proceed to the next step
Disconnect the refrigerator from the mains for three days → such a long period is needed for the ice to melt on the evaporator. Be sure to open the doors to both cells
Turn on the refrigerator → time should be noted, after 2/3 hours the engine should shut off. It is advisable to put outdoor thermometers in both chambers, which show sub-zero temperatures.

Read also: DIY aquario asp pump repair

Hello, the refrigerator compartment does not work on my refrigerator, after opening the front cover in front of the evaporator, I found that the freezer is completely in ice. I was advised to replace the defrost sensor and check the heating element. I checked the heater without difficulty, but I can't figure it out a little with the sensor. Where it is located and what it looks like, I found two sensors in one silicone package. I wanted to call them, but they do not call either on Omah or MegaOhm. I have an electronically controlled refrigerator, that is, I set the temperature with the buttonsPhoto of a defrost sensor for a refrigerator LG No Frost
Image - DIY refrigerator repair lg no frost 372

Indeed, there are two sensors in one silicone package. One of them is a fuse, its resistance is almost zero, but the other (white), this is the defrost sensor, its resistance at room temperature is 13 kΩ

I ask for help in repairing the LG No Frost refrigerator. The problem itself is that ice constantly accumulates on the evaporator, I defrost it every two to three weeks, depending on the time of year. Teng checked the defrost, like a whole one, in any case the spiral itself is not in a cliff. I can’t check the defrost sensor, or rather I don’t know its resistance, at room temperature it shows 6 kΩ, if it is heated, the value remains the same. Is it right or not?

At room temperature, the resistance of the defrost sensor should be about 13 kOhm, when the temperature rises or falls, the resistance should change. From what you wrote, the defrost sensor is unusable

I'm already tortured with my Ski, I constantly defrost it. The refrigerator is old, the temperature is set by the thermostat, the whole problem is that a month after deep defrosting, the refrigerating chamber stops working again and, moreover, the motor on the refrigerator does not turn off. In general, you have to defrost again for 2-3 days, and only then does it start to work normally

As I understand it, you have an LG refrigerator with a mechanical control system. To cope with your trouble, it is advisable to change all the mechanics, that is, the defrost sensor and the clockwork. Trust me as an experienced craftsman, replacing one of these parts may not give the desired result. The fact is that each spare part has its own resource, in your case, they have worked out this resource. Do not listen to those who will advise you to change everything individually, it is better to do everything at once and for sure. In the photo below you can see the timer and defrost sensor.

Photo of a defrost sensor for a refrigerator LG Nou Frost with mechanical control

Photo timer for refrigerator LG No Frost

This is perhaps the last malfunction on which depends how the refrigerator compartment will cool. On mechanically controlled refrigerators, the damper works independently of electricity.The fact is that it works as a thermostat, it has an accordion, into which freon is pumped, and as it cools, this accordion narrows, as a result the damper closes. In general, if we talk about a mechanical damper, then it breaks down very rarely, for the entire time, I personally changed it several times and then through the fault of the household, who decided that the problem was in it and stupidly picked it out. In general, if you have a mechanically controlled refrigeration system, you do not need to touch the damper, it is better to look at the defrost system. Now you can talk about electronic control and a damper that closes or opens the air channel thanks to a motor

With my LG No Frost refrigerator, miracles are happening. In general, if you turn it on, it perfectly picks up the temperature and turns off, but then the refrigerator stops working, and the refrigerator works in 20/20 mode, that is, it costs 20 minutes and works 20 minutes. The freezer blunts normally, but the food disappears in the refrigerator, there is no cold at all, the temperature is +20 o C. I found such a thing, after the temperature is set, the damper closes and then does not open, there is no ice on the evaporator. I tried to do the following thing, took off the front cover to see how the damper closes and opens, I understand that if the door is open, it will close, so that this does not happen, I took a magnet and simulated a closed door, that is, I passed it along the case and the fan turned on, then the brains must see that the door is closed. In general, the fan works, and the damper does not open, if you push it, it makes a revolution and falls into place. Tell me where to dig

You don't need to dig anywhere, you need to check the temperature sensor of the refrigerating chamber, most likely the problem is in it or in the control module, at room temperature, its resistance should be about 13 kOhm. You can use an ordinary resistor for testing, but this is only for testing

Please read the following instructions before servicing your refrigerator.

Check the insulation resistance of the device.
Disconnect the appliance from the mains before servicing to prevent electric shock.
Whenever testing with the power on, wear rubber gloves to avoid electric shock.
When using any instrument, check its suitability for measuring current, voltage and power.
Do not touch metal items in the freezer with wet hands. This can cause frostbite.
Make sure that water does not come into contact with electrical components from mechanical parts.
When checking the lower section of the refrigerator with the upper door open, move carefully so as not to hit the upper door.
When it is necessary to tilt the appliance, remove any materials from the shelves and the shelves themselves, especially the glass ones.
When servicing the vaporizer, wear cotton gloves. This is necessary to prevent injury from sharp edges.
Repair the refrigeration circuit at a specialized service center. Gas inside the circuit can pollute the environment.

Test the refrigerator by plugging it in before refueling. It is necessary to establish the operability of the motor-compressor and immediately identify the defects of the entire system. If defects were found, possible residues of R134a refrigerant are removed by breaking the end of the tube at a narrow point. (Rice. one)

Replace filter and any damaged components. Desolder and remove a piece of the remaining tubing and then solder the Hansen-coupled tubing in the same place. (Rice. 2)

The brazing operation must be carried out with the valve open so that the flux vapors can escape freely. The soldering should be without cavities between the two pipes; it must be borne in mind that the soldering point expands during the heating process. The tube is equipped with a Hansen male coupling and connects to the tube of the vacuum pump. (Rice. 3)

Air begins to be pumped out of the system after starting the pump. The cooling system must be under vacuum until the pressure gauge reads vacuum (0 absolute, -1 atm, -760 mm Hg), in any case, it is desirable that the pump runs for about 30 minutes. (Rice. 3)

If a leak is found, it is necessary to stop the vacuum pump and add a small amount of freon to the system, if a vacuum cannot be obtained (the pressure gauge cannot drop to -1 atmosphere), start the refrigeration unit and find the leak with a leak detector. In case of defective soldering, when the valve is opened, the normal external pressure inside the circuit is not restored. This is because the remaining solder is sucked into the tube and blocks it, the pressure must be equalized when the valve is opened.

As soon as the evacuation is completed, add the required amount of grams of R134a to the refrigeration circuit. Remember that each system must be filled with the exact amount of R134a with a tolerance of ± 5 grams. (Rice. 4)

Before performing this operation (if the vacuum pump and the charging cylinder are connected), make sure that the valve in front of the vacuum pump is closed to conserve the freon when added to the system. (Rice. 5)

Also, check the graduated scale on the cylinder for the amount of R134a to be added, for example, if we have 750 grams of Freon in the cylinder and need to add 165 grams to the circuit, this result will be achieved when R-134a has dropped to 585 grams. controlling it by the indicator. Do this after selecting the appropriate scale for the gas pressure, the gas pressure is indicated by the pressure gauge on the top of the column.

In order for R134a to enter the system, open the valve at the base of the cylinder connected to the filler pipe. Freon cannot be added to the system all at once, because this can lead to blocking of the motor-compressor. After adding about 20-30 g, you must immediately close the feed.

The pressure rises and the compressor motor sucks in gas and the pressure decreases again. The control valve is opened again until the required amount of R134a has been filled. When the system is running, the inlet pressure should be stabilized between 0.30 and 0.6 atmospheres.

Despite the fact that modern refrigerators are quite reliable and capable of serving for several decades, they also periodically fail. It is worth solving problems with household appliances right away. Some problems can be dealt with on their own, while others require specialist intervention.

Typical problems that you can deal with on your own include:

the appearance of extraneous sounds and rattling;
insufficient or strong cooling of food;

But the serious problems that require the intervention of professionals include:

current piercing through the casing;
turning off the device immediately after turning it on;
the formation of a snow cap on the back wall;
stopping the operation of the motor - compressor;
lack of cooling.

Most often, no matter how trite it may seem, the rattling of the unit is caused by an incorrectly adjusted suspension of the compressor casing. To solve the problem, it is enough to lower the suspension bolts with springs to the required level.

Also, equipment rattling can be caused by contact of the product body with pipelines. This is solved by detecting problem areas and moving the tubes. Relays can also cause jitter. To fix the problem, it is worth making sure that it is located correctly and according to the special labels.

If the refrigeration equipment begins to freeze strongly or weakly, you will need to check several indicators at once:

Sometimes consumers are faced with the problem that refrigeration equipment is electrocuted. This can happen both during his work and in a calm state.

Attention: using a device that shocks is dangerous to life.Unplug it immediately and either fix the problem yourself or call the wizard.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need a special device - a megohmmeter, with which the insulation resistance of the refrigerator wiring is measured. The workflow will look like this:

Disconnect the unit from the mains and check the wires for visible defects.
If you haven't noticed any flaws on the wires, you will need one more device - "Ground". Its wire is connected to the body of the refrigerator, and the second wire - "Line", to the wire of the refrigerator. The “Line” wire is alternately connected to the thermostat, relay and compressor wires, and excessive resistance will be displayed on the screen.
After the location of the malfunction is calculated, the damaged wire will need to be replaced with a new one or carefully insulated.

The refrigerator can start to work continuously if the room temperature rises constantly or the thermostat knob is incorrectly set. Under these conditions, the equipment will operate at full capacity. If the thermostat is set correctly, and the unit operates at full power without interruption, it means that it simply failed and must be replaced. Also, a problem in the constant operation of the compressor motor may be a refrigerant leak. This can only be determined using a special device. It is impossible to repair the equipment on your own without the skill and necessary consumables. It is worth contacting the workshop here.

The thermal relay is often triggered for various reasons:

increased voltage in the electric motor circuit;
the relay is loose;
relay contacts oxidized;
there are faults in the starting relay;
the compressor is seized.

Important: most often the thermal relay often trips due to an increased voltage in the motor circuit. If the problem is not eliminated in time, its winding will burn out.

You can try to fix the breakdown by checking the voltage in the electric motor network. If stable, check the relay. For this, the motor is connected directly without a relay. If, after the performed manipulations, the equipment starts to work properly, you will need to replace the relay.

Sometimes in two-compartment refrigerators, excess moisture appears on the walls in the form of drops of water or a snow coat. This can happen due to long open doors, or if the seal has lost its elasticity. It can also be provoked by the fact that hot food is placed in the unit. Correcting this situation begins with checking all the settings in the cooling system.

Quite often, in modern models, a fur coat on the walls appears when the internal lighting is turned off. It is impossible to see if the backlight is on after the door is closed. To check if the light is on or not, place a thin object between the equipment wall and the seal and close the door. Through the resulting gap, you can determine whether the light is on or not. If it does not light up, then repair the lighting system or replace the button - the switch that comes out of the wall towards the door.

If, after connecting the unit to the network, it does not make any sounds, then the refrigerator does not work completely. This is most often due to the lack of current in the power supply network or to the failure of the refrigerator cord. If there is current, simply replace the cord or plug.

If the refrigeration equipment works, but with a short cycle, this can provoke:

high pressure;
the presence of air in the system;
excess freon;
relay actuation;
dirty fan;
failure of the fan.

For troubleshooting, you need to check if the fan is connected correctly. If there is a small amount of air in the system or there is an excess of freon, they will need to be vented through the valve. Remember to check the condenser for dust contamination.Frequent activation of the low pressure switch leads to clogging of the filter or damage to the expansion valve. In this case, you just need to clean the filter or replace it with a new one, check the relay settings.

Moisture can collect on the bottom of the refrigerator due to the tube misalignment or clogging. You can cope with a breakdown quite quickly if you clean the pipe that leads water to a special receiver using a long and flexible wire. The wire is inserted into the tube and moves along the hole to the bottom of the unit. After a few minutes of the working process, all the debris will go into the water receiver.

Caution: To completely clean the tube, it is best to douche it several times.

An unpleasant smell appears in the refrigerator from improper use. To do this, it is not recommended to place products with a pungent smell in it without special containers, wipe the walls of the device in time and monitor its cleanliness.

If, however, an unpleasant odor still appears in the device, you must quickly get rid of it. Since this will have a bad effect on all the products that are stored in it. This process can take several hours of your free time:

Disconnect the unit from the network and leave it for a while. If ice has formed on the walls, it is not recommended to remove it by force. Since we can cause mechanical damage to equipment.
After the equipment is completely defrosted, we wipe its walls with special means. Powder abrasive mixtures should not be chosen. Better opt for helium pastes.
Wipe the refrigerator dry with a clean cloth, ventilate it for 5-10 hours.
We plug the unit into an outlet and continue to operate it.

In some models of refrigerators, light bulbs in the backlight often burn out. Replacing them should not be difficult. It is enough just to unscrew the bolt holding the cover, remove it and unscrew the burned out light bulb. In its place, a new lamp is screwed in, the power of which should not exceed 15 W., and fix the shade in place.

Before proceeding with the repair of refrigeration equipment, it is necessary to diagnose it in order to understand whether it is possible to cope with the breakdown on its own or it is worth resorting to the help of specialists.

To diagnose equipment at home, you will need to prepare a universal tester and a screwdriver. Diagnostics begins with determining the quality of the voltage in the network. If it is 220 W, then everything is normal. If the voltage is less than this indicator, this can become the main reason for the failure of the household appliance.
Next, we carefully examine the cord and plug of the unit for integrity. It should not have defects, it should not heat up during operation.
Next, we inspect the terminals on the compressor. It is better to do this with the equipment disconnected from the network.
We inspect the compressor, which is located at the lower rear of the refrigerator. It must be free of defects and damage. After visual inspection, we check the winding. Disconnect flexible wires before inspection. It is necessary to check the winding circuit for continuity using a tester.
After that, you can proceed to diagnostics of small parts - the temperature sensor. To do this, use a screwdriver to remove and disconnect the wiring. Each wire is tested for functionality with a tester.

All malfunctions of refrigeration equipment are divided into two parts:

The inner chamber is not cooled during normal engine start. Most often, the breakdown lies in the main components of the equipment.

The unit does not turn on or turns on for a short time and then turns off. Here, the problems are associated with a malfunction of the electrical circuit of the household appliance.

In the first case, only highly qualified craftsmen should be engaged in repairs, since diagnostics and repairs can only be carried out with the help of special equipment and long-term skills.But if the electrical mechanism of the unit is out of order, then you can solve the problem on your own - after carrying out diagnostics, identifying the causes of the breakdown and replacing the failed spare part.In conclusion, I would like to note that every unit, even from a world-famous manufacturer, may stop working at some time. To repair a refrigerator, you need to figure out what the matter is, purchase the necessary part and stock up on free time. If you do not have special experience in the repair of household equipment, it is better to contact the masters of their craft, who will solve all problems quickly and efficiently.DIY installation of screw piles: performing installation calculations, installation rules. Design features and advantages of screw piles.Description of the principle of operation and the device of the pumping station, characteristics of the main types of breakdowns, do-it-yourself repair. Replacing a failed membrane. System installation and operation manual. Image - DIY refrigerator repair lg no frost 372