Do-it-yourself refrigerator repair minsk 128

МЗХ-128 with an electrovalve. Has anyone reworked one thermal? Without valve. how is it at work?

It’s not easier. Take off the ends from the valve, throw it on the dviglo. The valve flips 180 degrees. And everything works.

Normal, but it will be slightly warmer in the freezer than in the valve version. There is no crime, there is only a few degrees of difference there, but picky customers may remain unhappy. Plus, the red lamp of the 145th thermostat may start to light up (it is advisable to either turn it off completely or turn it off with an adjustment screw).

I described everything according to the procedure KPro... "Flap valve 180" - means to fix the valve in an inverted position so that it is constantly open.

However, Wadim described everything, I can only add that you don't have to dedicate the client at all, or vice versa: just warn you that it will be one or two degrees warmer in the freezer.

The valve is removed altogether. A heater is hung on the evaporator (as in MZH 215). The refrigerator is powered by a thermal133. The freeze button is present. How is this scheme?

Why such masochism (wave the burner) if you can just turn the valve over?

So no one bothers to do this without desoldering the valve.

So it is suggested. Vaughn, KPro he said that the wires from the valve should be transferred to the compressor.

How is the props? Or is it supposed to power the crying heater through this button?

I also just turn the valve over and remove the coil from it. The main thing here is to do everything carefully so as not to damage the capillaries.
You can also pinch the capillary that goes to the valve from the middle of the condenser, but in this case, liquid freon can flow into the compressor, I think. Personally, pinching this capillary helped me a couple of times, when, for an unknown reason (but not a leak), the crying evaporator did not completely freeze over. Perhaps the problem was that the filter or capillary at the end of the condenser was clogged and the amount of refrigerant supplied to the evaporator from the middle of the condenser increased sharply.

I am also for flipping the valve. In this case, I see no point in opening the system and removing the valve.
By the way, I thought that such refrigerators had long ago sunk into oblivion and in the practice of refrigerators are no longer found.

Do we throw a question about the ends at M / K? (the old ones will not work in their place), a coup by 180? (this makes the valve open permanently to the freezer). Doesn't it work without coups?

It is necessary to power the compressor through the XK thermostat. The easiest way to do this without unnecessary gestures is to transfer the valve power cable to the compressor.

Works (you can, for example, re-solder everything or constantly supply power to the valve coil). But the easiest option is to gently flip it over.

There is a two-compartment refrigerator Minsk 128. It is approximately 15 years old. Up to a certain point it worked properly (both chambers). One fine day, it simply turned off in working order (this was noticed only two days later), since then it no longer buzzes and does not freeze at all (i.e., when the plug is plugged into the outlet, it does not emit any sounds).

Replacing the thermostat is likely to solve your problem.

Refrigerator Minsk 10, which motor is suitable for it? We want to replace it.

Your model has a 155W compressor and any compressor with that capacity will work.

Minsk-5, everything was fine until yesterday evening. I came home from work, and he does not freeze, but he works. Of course, I turned everything I could, there was a wheel with numbers, turned it off, turned it on.I watched from 18 to 22-30, then I looked, the back wall went cold, such a raid appeared. Well, in the morning it is also cold now, but the engine does not stop. It works all the time, does not stop, but should intermittently, what happened?

Failure to shut down the unit may indicate a malfunction. The reasons can be the following: Thermostat is faulty; Clogged capillary system; Freon leak. There is little refrigerant and not enough refrigerant to operate the unit.

Minsk-12 works without turning off the compressor, while it does not freeze. Cause?

I have a single-chamber refrigerator Minsk 11 with a freezer and electromechanical control. It won't start. It tries to start up for 5-7 seconds and turns off. The thermostat was turned off and the wires were connected in a straight line. The effect is the same. Help, what could it be?

If the unit starts up for a few seconds and then turns off, then the cause of the malfunction, first of all, should be looked for in the motor: the start-up relay may have failed, it needs to be replaced; the compressor itself may be faulty.

The platform in the refrigerator Minsk 12e, which is located slightly below the freezer, where the water rolls down when you defrost the cold. branch. So, I pulled it out, it got out 3 cm calmly, and then I had to pull it. When I shoved it back, it didn’t fit, but I couldn’t push it all the way. Something is either getting in the way or I'm doing it wrong. Help who knows what.

There is nothing to interfere with. Do not insert the pallet along the guides.

Refrigerator Minsk 128 two-chamber. The freezer and the chamber are included per unit, the freezer freezes perfectly - there is not enough ice, but in the chamber it freezes so much that we do not know what to do.

Most likely, you have a faulty refrigerator thermostat. Please note - if the compressor runs without stopping for more than 30 minutes, then the thermostat is malfunctioning in any case.

Please tell me how to disconnect the relay from the compressor h-ka Minsk 11.

The start-up relay is simply attached to the motor-compressor with a canopy, that is, remove it by simply pulling it up, and you will succeed. Do not forget to disconnect it from the power supply.

There was a problem with the refrigerator Minsk 5. A couple of days ago it turned off and stopped turning on. After that, I disconnected it from the network and let it rest, after 12-14 I turned it on, the unit started working. After 14-17 hours, it stopped working, it just clicks. As it turned out, a start-up relay issues them, there the nichrome thread heats up to red, and then a click. These clicks are repeated in the interval of 20-30 minutes, while the cold. the compartment begins to defrost. Can you tell me what to change?

Is it possible to change the thermostat yourself to Minsk 12. How to remove it. Something is holding the tube behind. Is it sealed in there?

First, you need to release the evaporator fasteners to the x-ka housing. Look at the evaporator, you will see 2 screws, loosen them and remove the pressure plate (it is behind the evaporator) along the slots to the left or to the right (I don't remember). This plate presses the end of the bellows tube against the evaporator. The evaporator is located at the back of the hall. branches. The bellows tube is located behind the evaporator, screwed with 2 screws through the pressure plate.

Tell me please. Minsk 10 (single chamber, with a freezer inside and one compressor) does not turn on. No urge to turn on.

There may be a breakdown in the thermostat, start-up relay and motor-compressor.

I have Minsk 12E, I bought a Chinese-made thermostat from a master, who said that it needs to be adjusted. Tell me, is there any method for adjusting the enabling of shutdown with these screws in the relay?

It is not worth turning them very fine tuning, especially for a two-chamber wither, they are tuned at the factory.

After defrosting (without physical intervention), when the freezer is turned on, an audible signal and intermittent flashing of the warning lamps. What is the reason for this situation?

If the indicator flashes and the buzzer sounds, then this is not necessarily a malfunction. The unit gains operating temperature within 24 hours. After defrosting, it is recommended to keep the switched on x-k empty for 4 hours, and then fill it with food. If the indicator blinks and a sound is heard during the day, then this is most likely a malfunction. The thermostat is out of order. Does not give a signal to turn on the motor. Freon leak. There is not enough refrigerant in the system to maintain the correct temperature. If the model has two compressors, then one of them may be faulty. Clogged capillary tube. The blockage prevents freon from flowing in the cooling system, and the temperature does not decrease.

What bulbs and what do they mean in the Minsk-Atlant two-compartment refrigerator?

Often these models have 3 bulbs - Indication of operation of the cold. cameras, frost indication. cameras and a super freeze mode light. The color of these bulbs can be of three types. Green - Everything is working fine. If the green super freeze lamp is on, this function is on. Yellow - The chamber is gaining temperature, but not yet operational. Red - There is a problem in the camera with a red lamp on. It is necessary to call the master for inspection.

In the hall. chamber 0 degrees, replaced the thermostat, but it never turns off. Advise what could be?

Defective thermostat. Incorrect installation. Refrigerant leaking.

X-k KShD-280/45 1993. Began to turn on and off often, similar symptoms have already been described. I checked the thermostat, it is constantly closed, even when it is not working. It turns out either a protective relay or a compressor. I tried to disconnect from the network, after a few hours of inactivity, it turns on, it works for about an hour and stalls. And so it turns on every 2-3 minutes for 30 seconds, maybe a little more, stalls, etc. I measured the resistance of the windings: working 16 ohms, starting 21 ohms; the resistance between terminals R and S of the relay is 26 ohms. What will be the diagnosis?

I have a two-compartment refrigerator Minsk-Atlant 4012 with a compressor for 600 refrigerant. In our artisanal conditions, there is no such freon and there is no way to fill it, it is dangerous. Which compressor can be installed on this model so that it works well on another freon. This compressor model on a different freon will work worse. What do you advise?

Leave the compressor on R600 gas and change only the gas, because the working pressure of the 600 gas is much lower, due to this compressor the R600 is much quieter than its counterparts. We recommend changing to a compressor with R134a gas.

In operation, a two-chamber refrigerator Minsk with a freezer at the bottom and electromechanical control and one compressor. A snow-ice coat is formed on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment. Defrosted, formed the next day again. Is it sealing rubber or something else?

Check the door seal rubber for integrity. If there is damage, then this may be the reason. If the seal is intact, then it is necessary to check the thermostat for serviceability.

Freezer mm-164-0 mksh-240. Tell me, at what temperature should it turn off? Can't find the table. There is a regulator from 1 to 7.

Freezer temperature regulator, switch-off temperature -24C, switch-on temperature -20C. This is the average.

Attention light is on, ice is on the wall of the chamber, the freezer is slightly freezing. What could have happened?

If the motor-compressor is running, and there is not enough cold, then most likely the problem is a refrigerant leak.

Today I bought a two-compartment refrigerator Minsk. The panel between the freezer and the regular compartment gets very hot and so you can't hold your hand, is that normal? Or do you need to repair something?

This is a normal situation and it should be. There is a heating circuit to prevent the formation of condensation.

Found out that the thermostat has broken. We changed it and everything works now.But I found an incomprehensible key in the temperature and backlight control unit with the designation of the extreme positions "B" and "O" and did not find the purpose of this key in the operating instructions. Moreover, I did not find a description where this key would be. The black button is located on the side of the plastic box-block-casing where the temperature controller, the button for the open door and the backlight lamp are mounted. Factory version, is it some kind of modification of the standard model? Tell me what it turns on and off?

This button turns on or off the heating element of the cross member, later they stopped installing it, since the heating element must be turned on.

The freezer does not turn on (the compressor is boiling water, it does not cool for a long time). I was still working in the morning.

Malfunction in the burned-out motor-compressor. Although a malfunction of the thermostat is also possible.

Refrigerator Minsk 5 is cold, everything seems to be working properly. But very often loud sounds of the compressor interruption are heard. I assumed that this start-up relay (or thermostat, how is it correct?) Opens the circuit for a second. I just can't understand why. I tried to tighten the nichrome spiral, tighten the screw under the heated plate, all to no avail. Once I achieved the result that it quietly turned off and on, but the breaks were long and the temperature inside was low.

You can twist the screws or contact terminals as much as you like, but there is nothing worthwhile in them. The thermostat turns off the compressor according to the temperature of the refrigerating chamber evaporator, and the thermostat bellows tube is fixed at the point where, upon reaching the compressor operating time, the temperature reaches from -12 to -20 degrees, depending on the position of the thermostat knob. If the compressor wedges and rumbles from there, then it is easier to buy the same one, but a worker, than to repair it.

Malfunctions and repairs

Many different models of refrigerators, mainly of compression type, are currently produced under the Minsk brand. They differ in the number of compartments (single-chamber and double-chamber), layout (with a lower and upper freezer compartment), the number of motor-compressors (single-engine and twin-engine), purpose and other functional characteristics.

This is a reliable unit with a long service life, but it also needs repairs occasionally. The main malfunctions leading to repairs are the failure of the motor-compressor and the malfunction of the freezer automation.

The design of the units of this brand becomes more and more complex every year. Without specialized knowledge and skills, it is impossible to qualitatively eliminate damage to electronic relays, freezing of thermal insulation, blockage of the capillary pipeline, destruction of the bellows tube of the thermostat.

The most frequently received complaints about malfunctions of these models, leading to their repair:

- Water leakage inside the h-ka or on the floor under it (most likely, the drainage system is broken).
- There is no indication on the control board (most often due to a burned-out board).
- The signal is on when the doors are well closed.
- Slight frost in the freezer compartment (in most cases the temperature sensor is to blame).
- A very large "ice coat" freezes (there may be many reasons).
- It is especially difficult to charge the system with refrigerant in the event of a complete or partial leak.

The service has been repairing refrigerators Minsk_Atlant since the day of its foundation. We have specialized in particularly complex repairs. which in 96-99. caused difficulties for many specialists. We will send you a master at the most suitable time for you. We always work, even on weekends and evenings. Diagnostics is possible by phone. The final price for repairing the minsk_atlant refrigerator will be told to you by phone. You don't have to pay for diagnostics.

A service engineer will answer your questions:

In recent years, a lot of refrigerators under the Minsk_Atlant brand have been produced, the very, very first devices that are made under the Atlant brand were Minsk_Atlant 126; 128; 130.

The service had to repair such refrigerators very often. The specified models had some, to put it mildly, features in the design itself: it was provided for greater user convenience independent temperature setting in the upper and lower chambers; although only one compressor was installed. The temperature in the chambers was maintained within the design limits using two thermostats. The TAM145 was installed in the freezer and monitored the temperature in the freezer by controlling the position of the solenoid valve (KEM). The KEM, switching to different positions, opened a path for the refrigerant either along a short capillary, then along a long one. In one position, the freezer was more freezing, in the other, the refrigerating compartment.

A long capillary was sealed at one end directly into the condenser, into the lower roll of the condenser, not reaching two whole rolls to the desiccant flask and ended with the other end soldered into the FEM. He extended the main capillary tube by 2.5m. This noticeable elongation is quite enough to freeze practically one freezer. When the freezer accumulated the necessary cold. TAM145 opened the valve's power supply circuit, and freon flowed through a short capillary tube. As a result, one refrigerated cabin was cooled. When the refrigerating chamber reached the required temperature, the TAM133 interior thermostat stopped the refrigerator compressor, and the entire unit warmed up somewhat in both chambers. After that, the TAM133 switched on the refrigeration compressor again. And the process was repeated cyclically.

The second interesting feature of the refrigerator design was that when the freon went through a long capillary, it went bypassing the desiccant filter flask. Letting freon bypass the filter is a little wild. There has never been a refrigerator without a desiccant filter anywhere. But the Minsk comrades did. Nobody has ever done it, maybe they just could not, but Minsk Plant did it! It was a breakthrough. It was an expensive car, sensitive to fuel quality, but no fuel filter at all. Suppose, in the afterburner mode, the gasoline line switches to a powerful one, but without a fuel filter. Of course, at first, the injector nozzles will clog, but then, in the economy mode, they will be washed. What has been said is only a distant analogy. Over the years, the amount of water in the Atlanta unit became critical, and the refrigerator could only work on a short capillary and could not, did not want to work on a long part of the capillary tube. Therefore, the usual procedure for replacing the desiccant cartridge on a unit that began to fail in the 5th or 8th year of service became completely ineffective.

We replaced the standard dryer filter with a larger one, but the freon went along a long capillary past the replaced filter and the carillary was frozen again. I cannot say what other mechanics did in these cases. We had to remove the KEM, increase the length of the short piece of the capillary by 130 cm and exclude TAM145 from the electrical circuit. And then the unit worked according to the usual scheme. Freon went 100% through the replaced desiccant cartridge and the system worked normally without freezing. after about a week, the filter absorbed all the water from the unit.

It should be added that these refrigerators were installed motor-compressors SK-160 Baranovskiy Plant of Refrigerating Compressors. It was the most poorly designed and poorly made compressor in the CK range. And on the Minsk_Atlant 130 series, the refrigerator compressor happened to find itself in a difficult position, which ended with the combustion of the electric motor windings or jamming of the compressor parts. That later required the installation of a new compressor.

Refrigerators of these models are inherent Freon leaks in the frothy part of the refrigerating chamber... Leaks were usually discovered in argon welds at the joints of the petal and pipes at the entrance and exit of the petal. With the necessary skill, they could be glued.
Until the first repair, these refrigerators worked for 6-8 years, and until completely unusable for 10 years. This one was twice as bad as in Minsk 15.

Repair of two-compartment refrigerators Atlant with a crying thawing system

Photo 1. In the photo In this refrigerator, it is impossible to eliminate the leakage of freon in the foamed part

Further we will consider only Atlant refrigerators with a lower location of the freezer and a crying thawing system. We have dealt with those refrigerators that are not being repaired. Now let's see in what cases you can repair the Atlant refrigerator with your own hands. I draw your attention to the fact that if a freon leak occurs in a refrigeration unit or a compressor fails, then such repairs should be carried out by a qualified technician. In no case do not drain the freon yourself, the fact is that the master must determine how much refrigerant is in the system, and the blockage in the capillary tube is also determined by the presence of refrigerant. First, let's list the signs of a refrigerant leak and a clogged capillary tube.

1. The refrigerator has stopped freezing and chilling
2. The refrigerator compartment does not cool
3. Ice forms in the upper compartment of the refrigerator on the back wall
4. The refrigerator has stopped turning off
5. The temperature in the freezer compartment is very low, but in the refrigerator compartment, on the contrary, the temperature has increased
6. Cold condenser at the back of the refrigerator
7. Half of the condenser is hot and the other half is cold
8. The compressor runs quieter
9. Swollen plastic on the back wall in the refrigerator compartment
10. If the leak occurs outside the foam part, then oil may appear in this area.
11. Between the refrigerator and the freezer, the intermediate bar is strongly rotted and an unpleasant smell of oil is felt

It seems to have listed everything, now I want to say a few words about the capillary tube. Its clogging can be determined by the condenser (radiator, whatever you like), I wrote about this in point 7, everything else is more about freon leakage. In photo 2, you can see a crying evaporator installed on the back wall in the refrigerator compartment, this is how you can cure this trouble. Here you need to add the following, if you are offered to simply refill your refrigerator, then this does not guarantee the subsequent performance of the refrigerator. In order for your refrigerator to work 100% after renovation, it is advisable to install a crying evaporator. Below you can watch a video in which I do this procedure.

Photo 2. What does the refrigerating chamber look like after repair

Watch a video on how to fix a freon leak in a two-compartment refrigerator with a crying system

Here it must be added that it is practically impossible to smell the leakage of freon (refrigerant), since there is a scanty amount of it in the cooling system, moreover, the refrigerant has no smell, smells like oil, and this is only if the leak is very large. After looking at the entire article, I understand that I already tired you, and the topic of the leak is quite large and there is something to talk about here, so I decided to describe this topic in a separate article.

photo 3. How to restore the rubber band on the door

As a result of the incomplete adherence of the sealing gum to the refrigerator body, ice freezes in the refrigerator quickly, and this leads to a loss of cold performance, in addition, warm air is sucked in from the environment, all this leads to incorrect operation of our unit. Quite often, due to the seal, the refrigerator simply cannot turn off, especially on hot days. To change the sealing gum for “Atlant or Minsk” is not an easy task, despite the seeming ease of this process.For frequent sealing rubber is glued to the refrigerator door and this causes tangible problems in replacing it, besides, the price of a set for a 2-chamber refrigerator is quite high, and the price of work on installing a seal also bites.

Watch a video on how to repair the seal on the refrigerator door