Do-it-yourself refrigerator repair minsk 15

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the minsk 15 refrigerator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

“An old friend is better than two new ones” - there is such a saying for a reason.

How long can a modern refrigerator last? For friends, the Panasonic refrigerator worked for about 6 years, after which the refrigerator stopped cooling. And ironically, the next day my 27-year-old refrigerator Minsk 15M broke down.

In the morning, a rather unpleasant surprise awaited me - drips on the door and a compressor that did not start. Having mentally said goodbye to the refrigerator and money (to buy another, albeit not new, but worker) I decided to flip through the bulletin boards. And I accidentally stumbled upon a hint on the “God knows what” site, that you can try to bridge the thermostat contacts and check if the compressor really burned out or something else. And that was done. But first things first.

We remove the plug from the control unit body and begin to lightly pull the unit towards the center of the refrigerating chamber, shaking the unit slightly, because behind the backlight lamp, where the channel of electrical wires passes, there is a latch.

He carefully removed and closed two contacts from the thermostat through a small sheet of metal, which he cut out of the computer's power supply case. And lo and behold! the refrigerator started up.

Then, having previously disconnected the Minsk 15m refrigerator from the outlet, unscrewed the fastening nut and pulled the wires out of the plastic case. Since there is a sealed tube under them, which is attached to the evaporator.

Having unscrewed the evaporator, he gently pushed it aside so that his hands could crawl to the mount of the thermostat tube. He lifted it up and removed it from the grooves.

The end of the tube was already corroded by rust.

Video (click to play).

The thermostat model is T-130, but there was no such thing in the store and therefore the T-133 was taken. The difference is that there are two more pins for grounding, and the case is made entirely of metal.

Be careful when assembling, because The “snake” of the thermostat is fragile and should not be bent too much.

I pressed the end of the tube to the evaporator and put everything together in the reverse order.

The repair cost me about $ 4.5, two hours of work, two hours of winding around the city in search of a spare part and a little nerves. And this is at least 40 times cheaper than a new refrigerator, and 10 times cheaper than a used one.

This refrigerator is a rectangular floor-standing cabinet with a refrigeration unit attached to its rear wall, which has a two-temperature evaporator. Between the outer (metal) and inner (plastic) walls of cabinet 1 (Fig. 1.), polyurethane foam is laid.

Rice. one. Refrigerator "Minsk-15", general view:

There is a serving surface on the upper part of the refrigerator cabinet 2. The inner cabinet is divided by a horizontal heat-insulating partition into two compartments: the upper - low-temperature and the lower - refrigeration. The low temperature compartment houses the upper low temperature evaporator of the dual temperature evaporator of the refrigeration unit.

The chambers of the refrigeration cabinet are closed by doors 4 and 8 with handles 5 and 7. A rubber seal with a magnetic insert is installed along the perimeter of each door, which ensures a tight fit of the doors to the end surface of the cabinet. The design of the refrigerator provides for the possibility of re-hanging the door for right-hand or left-hand opening.

In the rear wall of the cabinet there is a special hatch 11 for introducing a two-temperature evaporator into the cabinet. Cooling of air and food inside the cabinet (in both compartments) is carried out by a refrigeration unit.The refrigeration unit consists of a motor-compressor 14, a condenser 12 and a two-temperature evaporator, connected by pipelines and forming a hermetically sealed system filled with a refrigerant — freon-12. Cooling of the evaporator is achieved by throttling the freon circulating in the refrigeration unit using a capillary tube and boiling it in the evaporator at low pressure.

The evaporator of the refrigerating chamber is located in the upper part of it.

The heat exchanger of the refrigeration unit (a suction tube with a capillary tube inserted inside) is connected to the evaporator through one inlet in the evaporator.

Maintaining the required temperature in the refrigerator is ensured with periodic switching on and off (using a temperature sensor-relay) of the compressor. In order to remove residual moisture and prevent clogging of the capillary tube, a drying zeolite cartridge with a filter is installed in front of it. The start of the compressor electric motor and protection of its windings from thermal overloads are carried out by a start-up relay.

In order to exclude the formation of moisture droplets on the partition of the cabinet, dividing it into low-temperature and refrigerating chambers, an electric heater is built into it.

The frost from the evaporator located on the rear wall of the refrigerating chamber thaws periodically during the operation of the refrigerating unit during compressor stops. The frost on the walls of the low-temperature chamber thaws when the refrigerator is disconnected from the mains. The melt water from the chambers is discharged through the drainage system into the melt water tank located under the refrigerator.

The electrical diagram of the refrigerator is shown in Fig. 2.

Rice. 2. Refrigerator "Minsk-15", electrical diagram

When the old refrigerator "Minsk 15M" broke down in the winter at the dacha, it seemed to me that nothing terrible had happened. "Well, in the spring we will go with a friend to his Gazelle to the dacha, along the road we will buy an Aristonchik for eight thousand - and that's all." - I thought.

But how wrong I was! By May, the question at the family council stood squarely: the "Aristonchik" option did not give a ride - we buy a "Liebherr" home, we take the old "Bosch" to the dacha, and take the "Minsk" into the trash heap. As you probably already guessed, it was not without the good advice of the mother-in-law.

The time is ripe for the launch of a cost optimization subroutine, because only the delivery of refrigerators threatened to turn out to me at least five thousand rubles.

About ten years ago, our ZiL refrigerator of the 81st year of production broke down. Then I called the master. He changed the thermostat, taking 1,500 rubles from his wife. This option was clearly not suitable, since it is unlikely that the master would have gone 100 km from Moscow to look at the old refrigerator. And if he did, he would ask for a lot of money.

Repair of refrigerators in Novokuznetsk: 8-903-985-17-87

After some brainstorming session, I decided to fix the refrigerator myself. The necessary thermostat was found on the radio market: Up to 400 rubles - and that's all. I told the seller the brand of the refrigerator, and he immediately found the necessary relyuhu.

For half a day it was impossible to unscrew the old relay - there was no suitable key.

Gadget somehow unscrewed it with round-nose pliers, and it went. It remained to unscrew two screws from the cooling panel, pull the tube from the thermostat behind it and transfer the contacts from the old relay to the new one.

This is what is written on the old refrigerator. In the instructions it is called "Minsk 15M"

The relay box is located in the upper right corner of the refrigerator.

The adjustment knob is removed first. It can be removed without problems - just with your hands. The plug is removed and the screw is unscrewed.

Then you need to unscrew the nut that secures the relay. I had complications with this operation. A car wrench set was clearly needed, since neither a regular wrench nor pliers could fit through the holes. Thin round-nose pliers helped out - the nut easily came off the thread.

To release the tube 1, which goes from the relay behind the cooling panel, you must first unscrew the screw 3 that secures the panel.Then unscrew the 2 screws on the panel to release the tube directly. The installation of a new relay is carried out in the reverse order.

The new relay is already connected, it remains to shove it into the box and screw it on.

According to the law of meanness, the light was given two hours before departure. After all, I managed to turn on the refrigerator. For half an hour I walked around him, felt if the engine was running. After 35 minutes, the new relyukha worked, turning off the motor. As a first approximation, the task of fixing the refrigerator could be considered completed.

My own master 04/2018

Repair of two-compartment refrigerators Atlant with a crying thawing system

Photo 1. In the photo In this refrigerator, it is impossible to eliminate the leakage of freon in the foamed part

Further we will consider only Atlant refrigerators with a lower location of the freezer and a crying thawing system. We have dealt with those refrigerators that are not being repaired. Now let's see in what cases you can repair the Atlant refrigerator with your own hands. I draw your attention to the fact that if a freon leak occurs in a refrigeration unit or a compressor fails, then such repairs should be carried out by a qualified technician. In no case do not drain the freon yourself, the fact is that the master must determine how much refrigerant is in the system, and the blockage in the capillary tube is also determined by the presence of refrigerant. First, let's list the signs of a refrigerant leak and a clogged capillary tube.

The refrigerator has stopped freezing and chilling

The refrigerator compartment does not cool

Ice forms in the upper compartment of the refrigerator on the back wall

The refrigerator has stopped turning off

The temperature in the freezer compartment is very low, but in the refrigerator compartment, on the contrary, the temperature has increased

Cold condenser at the back of the refrigerator

Half of the condenser is hot and the other half is cold

The compressor runs quieter

Swollen plastic on the back wall in the refrigerator compartment

If the leak occurs outside the foam part, then oil may appear in this area.

Between the refrigerator and the freezer, the intermediate bar is strongly rotted and an unpleasant smell of oil is felt

It seems to have listed everything, now I want to say a few words about the capillary tube. Its clogging can be determined by the condenser (radiator, whatever you like), I wrote about this in point 7, everything else is more about freon leakage. In photo 2, you can see a crying evaporator installed on the back wall in the refrigerator compartment, this is how you can cure this trouble. Here you need to add the following, if you are offered to simply refill your refrigerator, then this does not guarantee the subsequent performance of the refrigerator. In order for your refrigerator to work 100% after renovation, it is advisable to install a crying evaporator. Below you can watch a video in which I do this procedure.

Photo 2. What does the refrigerating chamber look like after repair

Watch a video on how to fix a freon leak in a two-compartment refrigerator with a crying system

Here it must be added that it is practically impossible to smell the leakage of freon (refrigerant), since there is a scanty amount of it in the cooling system, moreover, the refrigerant has no smell, smells like oil, and this is only if the leak is very large. After looking at the entire article, I understand that I already tired you, and the topic of the leak is quite large and there is something to talk about here, so I decided to describe this topic in a separate article.

photo 3. How to restore the rubber band on the door

As a result of the incomplete adherence of the sealing gum to the refrigerator body, ice freezes in the refrigerator quickly, and this leads to a loss of cold performance, in addition, warm air is sucked in from the environment, all this leads to incorrect operation of our unit.Quite often, due to the seal, the refrigerator simply cannot turn off, especially on hot days. To change the sealing gum for “Atlant or Minsk” is not an easy task, despite the seeming ease of this process. For frequent sealing rubber is glued to the refrigerator door and this causes tangible problems in replacing it, besides, the price of a set for a 2-chamber refrigerator is quite high, and the price of work on installing a seal also bites.

Watch a video on how to repair the seal on the refrigerator door

Photo 5. Photo of the Atlanta motor relay

Photo 6. Denfos motor relay

Video how to check the start relay on the Atlant refrigerator

The most massive model produced by the Minsk Refrigerator Plant is Minsk-15... This device has been produced for many years, since the distant 1978.
The photo shows a brief evolution of the refrigerator Minsk-15.
First layout Minsk-15:

One of the first copies. It has a yellow evaporator, but the middle loop is already made of metal. In the first lots there were plastic hinges, but they broke very often and the engineers modified the hinge.

Later they began to release Minsk-15m... They began to cover the evaporator with white enamel, changed the handles, door panels, a serving table was often installed on top, and so on.

In the early 90s, they began to produce a model Minsk-215, worked on the design and began to use a more convenient design for mounting the evaporator.

The latest model, which was similar in design to Minsk-15, was called Atlant KShD-256

The models that were produced later had a non-separable cabinet and represented already the generation of modern disposable refrigerators.

Refrigerator repair Minsk-15 not difficult for an experienced craftsman, but considering the cost of spare parts it can cost good money. Instead, a refrigerator with a huge margin of safety will serve you for a long time.

Currently, ATLANT Inc. of the Republic of Belarus produces more than 50 models of modern refrigerators, including the Minsk 15M refrigerator, the technical characteristics of which meet international quality standards.

It is safe to say that the new model range of Belarusian refrigerators is practically in no way inferior to well-known world brands. For example, refrigerator mink-15m kshd 28045 uhl 4,2 ″ n whose characteristics best show the quality of the products. So these refrigerators are distinguished by ease of maintenance, they do without repair for a long time and, moreover, their price is relatively low.

But, like any equipment, these refrigerators can have certain malfunctions, some of which you can fix yourself. That is, it is quite possible to repair the Minsk 15M refrigerator with your own hands. The main thing is that a person has certain knowledge.

One of the possible malfunctions may be a breakdown of the thermostat. Refrigerator Minsk 15 M thermostat malfunctions are determined by the fact that the device may not turn on completely (that is, the refrigerator does not work) or not turn off (the refrigerator works without interruption and freezes food). In this case, you will most likely need to replace the thermostat.

Refrigerator Minsk 15M may show malfunctions in other cases as well. This can lead to clogging of the capillary tube. With such a malfunction, it is unlikely that it will be possible to do it on your own, since this will require blowing out the tube or, if the malfunction is not eliminated, a complete replacement of the product.

Also, one of the most common problems of the refrigerator is refrigerant leakage. Signs of such a malfunction are an increase in temperature in the refrigerator and a build-up of a fur coat on the evaporator of the freezer.

Another common malfunction of the Minsk 15M refrigerator is the growth of an ice coat on the back wall of the freezer. This problem is quite common among owners of refrigerators of this brand. In principle, it is not difficult to fix it. And it is also not worth delaying the repair, since the evaporator of the freezer may become unusable, which will cost more expensive repairs.

Minsk 15M technical characteristics, which are quite competitive with other manufacturers, rightfully occupies one of the leading places among the sold models of the Belarusian plant.

Refrigerator Minsk 15M, about 15 years old. Now the following problem has arisen. It works constantly, does not turn off at all, for 2 days already. Freezes, freezes water in the common chamber. I tried to change the relay, but what I removed from another model did not work. The relay, which I found at the back of my h-ka, is labeled P4 (I don’t know for sure, maybe this is not a relay at all). Tell me what to do, what to change, where to buy it?

It is necessary to change the thermostat (this is a kind of "twist" that regulates the temperature) inside the unit, its tip is fixed on the back wall. K-59, TAM-133 most likely.

I got Minsk 126 with a problem, it does not start in normal operation, it buzzes, as if the capacitor is broken. In forced freezing mode, everything works. I opened the top cover and saw that the unit was being repaired, it seems that some kind of regulator was changed, because the tubes are not bent correctly. Could the engine governor be the cause? The solenoid is connected as standard.

The most likely cause of the problem is the thermostat.

Refrigerator Minsk 16 is about 20 years old. There is the following problem with it: the compressor turns on with great difficulty, i.e. turns on and off and so on many times - while the refrigerator freezes. Could it be a start relay?

If there are more than 200 volts in the outlet, then you need to call a specialist. Problems can be in the motor or in the starting of the relay. The start of the compressor is accompanied at first by its acceleration (1-3 sec) with the help of the starting winding, then it is switched off with the help of the relay. The relay also provides overcurrent protection, which disconnects the compressor from the network if the current in the working winding exceeds the permissible value. Overcurrent begins, as a rule, with a drop in the compressor motor speed due to an increase in the dynamic resistance of the system. The load on the motor increases, the speed drops, which further leads to an increase in the current, after which the current protection is triggered. After a while, the bimetallic contacts of the current protection relay close again and the process repeats. To check the health of the motor itself, you should ring its windings and compare their actual resistance with what it should be. It is difficult to check for short circuits in the working winding at home. Consider the fact that the actual operating time of the relay is much less than the operating time of the x-ka, i.e. there is practically no wear, or it is insignificant. So, the relay is more likely nothing to do with it.

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Tell me, please, I bought a freezer Minsk 17, there is a switch above the door. Should it be on or off?

In a mechanically controlled freezer, the toggle switch is responsible for the super-freeze function. In storage mode, the key must be off. It is only necessary when the freezer is loaded with a large load and the need to quickly freeze it.

The two-compartment refrigerator starts up for ten seconds and turns off. What are the causes of this problem?

If the compressor turns on and off, then the cause is the burned out motor-compressor.

I have the following problem with the Minsk 15M refrigerator: the unit works constantly, without shutting down, regardless of how the temperature controller is set. The temperature changes, but the compressor is always running and does not stop. For a week, it freezes such a fur coat on the walls, both in the freezer and in the cold store, that there is nowhere to put food.

It is necessary to check the fastening of the thermostat tube to the evaporator, perhaps there is no tight touch, and perhaps the problem is in the thermostat itself and then it will be replaced. All this under the condition that both evaporators freeze evenly, while the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer compartments is very low.

Please help me figure out exactly what the problem is. Refrigerator Minsk-126. Usually it works well, but when summer comes, and the apartment is not 20 degrees, but under 30, it stops freezing, the compressor works for 2-3 minutes, and then “rests” for 40-50 minutes. When the apartment is not hot, the unit works without problems.

Yes, there is a partial loss of cooling capacity, change the compressor.

Refrigerator Minsk 15 M. The problem is as follows: The evaporator is constantly in a fogged state (even drops on it), the regulator is set to 3, I tried to set it to 6 for a day, it became colder in the chamber, but the evaporator is also covered in drops of water and a large accumulation of water at the bottom of the h-ka, you have to constantly wipe, drain. Tell me, what could be the reason? It cools well, the thermostat works, i.e. when increasing from a position of 3 to 6, it feels colder after a while. The question is that the evaporator is covered in drops of water and at the bottom of the unit there are constantly puddles of water (under the storage boxes), and water also flows out of the h-ka.

Blockage of drainage of melt water from the hall. cameras. Purge-rinse the drain hose.

After replacing the sealing rubber of the lower chamber of the Minsk 126 refrigerator, the lower part of the door does not adhere to the chamber. How can you adjust?

The door position is adjusted by moving the brackets on which the door is installed. The lack of tightness in the corners may be due to the deformation of the seal. If this is deformation, then you can try to put a piece of rubber or other similar material under the seal in the place of non-density. Sometimes it is possible to eliminate the deformation with boiling water. A rag is placed under the door, onto which water will drain, gently pour boiling water over the place of deformation for a few seconds, straighten the deformed seal, and leave to cool.

Refrigerator Minsk-130-1, single-compressor (old, 18 years old). The freezer works satisfactorily, and the refrigerator compartment does not cope with its functions in the summer (temperature +10 +15 degrees, depending on the outside). At the same time, a huge snowdrift formed on the evaporator within a week after defrosting. The seal is ok. The drain is cleaned through. Even after turning it off (if it was turned off for a long time) - it somehow starts up badly - the camera cools very slowly. What malfunctions can there be with such symptoms? Maybe there just isn't enough refrigerant?

If the snowdrift does not have the shape of a regular rectangle, then there is a problem with the unit. Partial Freon leak.

I have a refrigerator Minsk 15 M, now it has stopped working, that is, it is plugged in, only the light is on, and the motor does not start. Maybe the reason is in the thermostat? Because when you turn it all the way to 0, there is no click and answer again: which thermostat is there TAM-133 or some other?

Most likely, the reason is in the thermostat. You can put TAM-133, you can K-59, you can put any of the analogues, but the first two are the most common.

Refrigerator Minsk 130-1. When connected to the network, a crackling sound is heard, the yellow and red indicators are on, after a couple of seconds it turns off, after 3-5 minutes, the sound again and turns off again, while it does not freeze. What to do? Is there anything you can do? There is no way to buy a new one.

The fault lies in the motor-compressor.

Refrigerator Minsk-6 works flawlessly.At times, the heater in the partition between the freezer and the refrigerator does not work. As a result, condensation collects in drops on the top wall of the refrigerating chamber, inside the container, and this “rain” drips onto the products on the shelves. Everything is in the water, there is a puddle under the vegetable boxes. Will I be able to fix this problem on my own, or is it better to contact a specialist?

Drops on the upper wall of the hall. the chambers are not connected in any way with the cross member heater. The problem is the very low temperature in the freezer and very warm in the fridge compartment. Due to the large drop, condensation forms. Set the regulator to position 1. If in cold. the back wall of the chamber is not covered with frost, then there is a problem with freon.

The thermostat was replaced with “Minsk 15M”. Worked for a day (empty) - does not turn off. Tell me, how many hours does it have to work to reach the operating temperature level? And how can you check the thermostat? Maybe a marriage?

You need to measure the temperature on the surface of the cold evaporator after 3-4 hours of continuous operation. cameras in the place where the thermostat tube is attached, if, of course, there is such a possibility, and it will immediately become clear what it is: a defective thermostat or other malfunction. If the thermostat was changed by the master, call it again, he must deal with the cause of the malfunction. There are also defective thermostats, but rarely.

Read also: Do-it-yourself refrigerator repair minsk 128
Refrigerator Minsk 16 starts up, and after 3-4 seconds. the protective relay is switched off. The motor windings are of the order of 15 and 25 ohms. It happened after a thunderstorm.

The resistance of the windings (15 and 25 ohms) looks like working ones. Check the breakdown of the windings on the body of your motor, because if the compressor turns on for 3-5 sec. and turns off by the start-up relay, this means a compressor malfunction.

Minsk-6. In operation for 26 years. Worked great. Today it turns on and turns off after half a minute.

The most likely cause of the problem is the motor-compressor.

There is a refrigerator Minsk 16E, and there is a problem with it - as soon as it is plugged into an outlet - it works without stopping in any position of the thermostat knob. If you twist the knob behind the number “1” (where it resists resiliently), the unit turns off and starts up after 5-10 minutes of inactivity after reconnecting it to the outlet. It freezes very well, it is cold in both cells. For several days, literally one or two times I heard that it turns off. There is a suspicion that this is a thermostat.

Maybe T-132 or TAM-133, now T-132 is not produced, so there remains TAM-133, there is also K 59. Before changing, look at how securely the end of the bellows tube is attached to the evaporator, sometimes the bolts rot and it just hangs in the air, then it works as you describe.

What is the cost of a thermostat in a refrigerator kshd 280/45?

Temperature regulator TAM-133-1M-1 1.3m 908081400135 (908081400131).

Refrigerator Minsk two-chamber. It does not turn off at all, in the freezer it freezes normally from above, but not very much from below. There is a large layer of ice on the back wall and it does not melt as before. What could be the problem?

Refrigerator Minsk 15 is about 18 years old. It stops working, turns on for 3 seconds, hums like a transformer and turns off and then after a few minutes everything repeats again. Before that, a month and a half ago, it also broke down, then freon leaked out, a master came, repaired and pumped in the gas. He said that the unit will work for a long time, as the compressor is in good condition. And here again 2 times over the summer broke. My guesses that it was just the compressor that burned out, I read that the resistance between the compressor windings should be at least 20 ohms, I got 45 ohms, 55 ohms and 11 ohms. That is, there is less than 20 ohms (11 ohms) between the two terminals. It turns out that there is an inter-turn closure? Is it so? Compressor ХКВ8-1М.

Perhaps the compressor is working. The relay can be supplied with RTK 1.5A or PZR 1.5A or MPV 1.5A.

Recently there was a problem - the Minsk 16 refrigerator turns on every other time, or rather, if it is easy to click on the thermostat block, it will turn on. It freezes well, the compressor does not hum, it runs smoothly. What do you advise?

Say, the cycle lasts three minutes, then a break for three minutes, and so on all the time. Is this how it should be or is it necessary to configure?

For a freezer, working for 3 minutes and 3 minutes of “rest” is absolutely not the norm. Most likely, there is something with freon in the system or with the compressor itself.

Refrigerator Minsk two-chamber. Warmed up the freezer and cold. compartment, and the compressor stopped working. I left the house, the unit worked fine, and when I returned, the motor did not work, in the x-ke and the freezer at 70 degrees.

The unit works on the principle of a thermos, which is why the temperature inside has increased. If the motor does not turn on at all, then the reason may be the following malfunctions: The thermostat is out of order. The motor-compressor burned out.

The freezer of the two-compartment refrigerator Minsk does not work, but the cold. the department works fine. What can be wrong?

The reasons that the freezer stopped working may be as follows. The freezer thermostat is defective and does not turn on the motor. Freezer compressor burned out. In this case, the motor usually becomes very hot that you cannot hold your hand.

A couple of days ago, Minsk 15M (more than 20 years) worked well (the freezer gave -24C). Yesterday we noticed an obvious problem: it works for 1-2 minutes, then turns off for 3-4 minutes. It turns on easily (without unnecessary sounds) and turns off just as easily; the motor runs smoothly. The regulator in any position does not affect on-off. The temperature inside is quite stable: in the freezer -5, but mostly +10. Thermostat? Compressor?

Or a starting relay or compressor. The easiest way to check without instrumentation is to take a known working relay and check. If the malfunction is eliminated with the new relay, then the relay is. If not, the compressor, the thermostat is unlikely, but if in doubt, remove the leads from it and short them together. The unit should work without shutting down. Most likely, there is also a starting relay P3. It should be in a certain position, it says up there.

Tell me what could it be? Minsk 15 M, release of '89, hkvv-1m motor, worked properly, but somehow I heard it turn on and turn off after a few seconds. Unplugged it from the socket, defrost it. I plugged it in, but instead of starting the compressor, there was a humming and after 4 seconds with a loud click, the hum disappeared. After about a minute, the buzzing started again and also turned off after a click. I thought that the compressor was covered, but it still sometimes started up and worked sometimes right after the hum, and sometimes it started immediately without a hum. What could be the problem?

Compressor wedges with more than two estimated resources. Either the coil, or the contacts of the PZR (start-up relay) burned out.

Is it possible to replace the vertical compressor of a two-chamber refrigerator Minsk-15 with a horizontal compressor from Donbass-10?

Unfortunately, the compressor does not match the power rating for the model you specified.

This unit is in operation in 1988. When the plug is connected to the network, the compressor, rattling and shuddering, tries to start, while the nichrome spiral of the P4 relay quickly becomes red-hot, and after that the compressor turns off. After the coil has cooled down, the situation is repeated. What do you think is the problem, the motor or the relay?

Good afternoon, members of the forum!
Please help me with the problem: I decided to independently replace the door seals in the minsk-15m refrigerator (main chamber and freezer).
the reason for replacing the seal (old, in places cuts) - ice freezes in the freezer in the front upper part, thickness up to 2 cm and a section 20-25 cm wide, on the other sides everything is fine. replacing the seal gave nothing. the result is the same.
after replacing the seals, the freezer door stopped closing at all (I removed both doors completely).there were 3 adjusting plates (middle loop with axles). I had to add washers of 2.0-2.5 mm, the door began to close, but there is no sense, in my opinion the door is not attracted well.
the upper and lower loops, as I understand it, are not regulated, or I am mistaken.
how to correctly set the axis, hinges and solve the problem?

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P / s / no visible deformations on the doors and body.

everyone who responds and helps with advice - many thanks.

Alex_K56Thanks for the advice, but unfortunately, the door does not close if you leave 3 native spacers and all the measured distances from the door to the cabinet are the same.

What hinges are still regulated on this refrigerator and how?
Please write down the correct sequence of actions.
Maybe I did something wrong.

I removed the old seals on the removed doors, because there it was clear it was necessary to clean, touch up. After I put the seal, on the middle hinge I also put a number (3 pieces) of gaskets and the doors no longer attract and do not close normally.

ATLANT Inc. is a company that has been manufacturing household appliances (refrigerators, washing machines) for over 50 years. It is the largest supplier in the CIS. The company was founded in the early 60s in Belarus in the city of Minsk. The first refrigerator under the Atlant brand rolled off the assembly line in 1962. After 10 years, the products of this company entered the world market. The year 2003 was marked by the release of small size thermoelectric refrigerators.

The advantages of Atlant household appliances include:

adaptability;

reliability;

operation over a long period;

made from durable materials;

resistance to voltage drops (175-250 W);

low power consumption;

reduced noise level.

The food cooling unit consists of the following components:

Compressor motors. Its launch, as well as protection from the effects of environmental factors and accompanying processes, is carried out by means of a start-up relay. The cycle of work provides for switching on and off, occurring at regular intervals. The temperature sensor-relay is responsible for this.

Capacitors.

Fans. Designed for condenser cooling. They work together with the compressor, their activity is regulated by a thermostat. Special fans are often used to carry out forced air circulation;

Electric lamps. In their design, an electric cartridge, a switch, an incandescent lamp. The base is made of aluminum or brass, the wattage varies from 15 to 25 W. Automatic switching on of the device for lighting occurs when the door is opened;

Start-up relay.

Thermostat.

Relay sensor. It contains a system that is sensitive to temperature conditions, contacts, a device that ensures their switching, output terminals, a differential screw, and a node responsible for setting the temperature. This element is installed in a place where moisture does not penetrate, for example, outside or in the unit chamber.

Refrigerator diagram Atlant

The electrical circuit of the Atlant refrigeration unit is designed in such a way as to prevent the rapid failure of the elements that are included in it. An example in the photo.

The refrigerator of this brand has a starting protection mechanism containing a starting coil. The start-up relay can be inductive, electromagnetic or thermal. The device of the first type is recognized as the most modern option.

A distinctive feature of this element in the Atlant refrigerator is black. This is due to the need to absorb heat waves. This allows the start-up relay to be operated for a longer period. Damage to the part is possible due to the effect of gravity and unfavorable environmental factors, for example, impact when moving or moving.In this case, you will most likely have to buy a new start-up relay.

In order for the Atlant refrigerator to function without interruption, its condition should be monitored. The start-up relay is small in size, but despite this in its functions:

connecting an additional winding of the compressor to the network;

prevention of breakdown of the Atlant unit due to an increase in the number of engine revolutions (more than 75%);

protection of the refrigerator from overheating.

The principle of operation of the starting relay directly depends on its type. The thermal start-up protector works thanks to a bimetallic plate that heats up as an electric current flows through the coil.

Problems with Atlant refrigerators arise due to:

non-compliance with operating standards;

discrepancies in the expansion coefficients of metal particles inside the solenoid (typical for models of refrigeration units of all brands);

jamming of the coil core and contacts;

burnout of the spiral along which the electric current flows;

long downtime;

oxidation process;

mechanical damage;

burning directly the contacts themselves and the sockets from which they depart;

dysfunction of the spring plate.

The start-up relay consists of a solenoid, a pair of contacts, among which one is movable and the other is stationary, and a coil with a core. To eliminate the "ailments" localized in the relay, an electrical circuit of the relay of the Atlant refrigerator is required.

A force majeure situation is one that is characterized by problems with the motor-compressor. For example, if the refrigerator does not start at all when connected, it works without switching the mode, or it stalls after a certain period of time.

Correction of defects in the starter relay begins after identifying the exact cause of the problems. First, you need to disassemble it and completely check every part, after which it is cleaned, repaired or replaced.

The process takes place in the following sequence:

With a napkin moistened with ethyl alcohol, the core, stem and contacts are processed.

All of the above surfaces are sanded with sandpaper.

In extreme cases, the elements of the device are replaced.

Next, the starting relay of the Atlant refrigerator compressor is assembled and installed.

The final step is to test the performance of a new or refurbished part:

In order to check this indicator, the Atlant refrigerator is connected to the network. If it does not function, then most likely the problem lies in the motor-compressor itself. If the start-up is correct, the mains breaker is damaged. The damaged part must be removed and carefully inspected.

In order to install a start-up relay for the Atlant refrigerator (new or refurbished), no special technical skills or deep knowledge of the design of electrical circuits are required. A person who wants to connect a new start-up relay needs to purchase a suitable part (RTK, RTK-X, PZR, RTP, RP, R-3 and other types of construction).

Start relay connection

Their principle of operation is similar, but there are differences in the fastening method and technical characteristics. The start relay is placed on the casing of the motor-compressor. This element has an arrow on its surface that indicates the direction. Therefore, it is difficult to make a mistake when connecting.

Video (click to play).

In the absence of appropriate experience and skills, you should not undertake this procedure on your own. A much greater effect will be from contacting repair specialists. They will conduct a thorough diagnostics, remove the damaged part according to the electrical circuit and install a new starting relay for the Atlant refrigerator.

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