Do-it-yourself refrigerator repair yuryuzan 207

In detail: do-it-yourself refrigerator repair yuryuzan 207 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Refrigerator YURYUZAN-207 KShD-220/40 two-chamber, made in the form of a metal floor cabinet with refrigerating and low-temperature chambers, closed by separate doors. The inner chamber is steel enameled. Refrigerator door openings are sealed elastic double-cylinder seal with magnetic insert.

Rice. one. Refrigerator "Yuryuzan-207" KShD-220/40 (melt water drainage scheme)

The refrigerator contains a number of comfort elements that facilitate its maintenance during operation: automatic defrosting of the refrigerating chamber evaporator in a cycle and defrosting water out of the chamber; restriction of door opening at an angle of 90 ° with the possibility of adjustment at an angle of 120 °; the possibility of rearranging the shelves in the refrigerating chamber with an interval of no more than 50 mm in height and re-hanging the doors for right-hand or left-hand opening. The compression refrigeration unit operates on refrigerant R12.

The low-temperature compartment is located at the top of the refrigerator. The melt water formed during defrosting of the low-temperature chamber is discharged through a hatch in the partition, which is closed with a special stopper (Fig. 1).

The defrosting of the evaporator of the low-temperature chamber is manual, carried out during the defrosting period. The high humidity is constantly maintained in the refrigerating chamber, which makes it possible to reduce the shrinkage of unpackaged products. This is achieved by cooling the refrigerating chamber with a crying type evaporator, which defrosts during the non-working part of each cycle. Moisture from the evaporator flows into a tray located under the evaporator, and through the drain device enters the defrost water tank and the evaporator.

Video (click to play).

Rice. 2 Electric circuit of the refrigerator "Yuryuzan-207" KShD-220/40

Refrigerators "YURYUZAN 207" are two-compartment refrigerators with a classic arrangement of chambers, i.e. the freezer is located on top. The advantages of this model are low cost and high reliability. Repair of the YURYUZAN 207 refrigerator usually only required as a result of physical wear and tear on a part.

It is clear that since the refrigerator belongs to the economy class, it makes no sense to carry out expensive repairs. However, most often, the thermostat of the YURYUZAN 207 refrigerators breaks down or the core in the starting relay breaks, and these repairs are inexpensive. The parts needed for the refurbishment are also affordable.

Simple repair of the refrigerator "YURYUZAN" it is quite possible to do it yourself. This includes, for example, overweight of doors, replacement of a seal, replacement of a light bulb in a refrigerating chamber.

Yuryuzan refrigerators were produced in the Soviet Union and in Russia until 1996 in the Chelyabinsk region in the city of Yuryuzan. These refrigerators did not have a quiet compressor or a beautiful appearance, but many of them still work today.

Some features of the refrigerator's operation can be taken as a sign of breakdown: the sound of a moving liquid during operation, increased noises during switching on, a layer of frost on the walls of the refrigerator with a drip defrosting system. In fact, all these are features inherent in a working refrigerator.

Signs of a malfunctioning refrigerator include:

To identify a malfunctioning refrigeration appliance, look at the cumulative symptoms:

Elements of the working system of Yuryuzan refrigerators break down for various reasons. Not always the cause of the breakdown is in worn out or defective components. Refrigeration units often break down if not properly operated.

The operating rules are described in the user manual for the refrigerator. These include the correct installation of the device (no closer than 5 cm to the wall and other furniture, away from heating appliances); periodic cleaning of the condenser grid and drainage drain. At the same time, it is not recommended to manually clean the walls of the chambers from ice using sharp objects. If the voltage in the room often jumps, it is useful to install a stabilizer.

Household appliances in a varied assortment fill the life of every modern person. There are devices that you can easily do without, although they make our life easier, and there are those devices without which life is impossible. As you know, all equipment tends to break down, but the greatest grief comes at the moment when a very necessary equipment breaks down, the repair of which is often very expensive, and the acquisition of a new one is even more. We are talking about a refrigerator - a device that is in every home, and the breakdown of which will upset any owner.

Few people know that you can repair a refrigerator without contacting a service center. During the time that refrigerators live in our house, many craftsmen have accumulated successful experience in eliminating the most common problems that arise during operation. The main advantage of modern equipment that generates cold is its device, which even an inexperienced craftsman can figure out with his own hands.

Cold formation

Naturally, before proceeding with the repair, you need to understand how a household appliance works. The most important thing in the refrigerator is the unit that produces the cold. The production of cold in the chamber is carried out due to the main three components, which are connected to each other by a piping system: an evaporator, a compressor and a condenser. Refrigeration gas is located inside the closed system. Previously, Freon-12 was used for these purposes. However, in modern household appliances, as cooling, it is customary to use safer substances that contribute to the production of cold.

The cooling of the walls of the refrigerator takes place thanks to the compressor, which, with the help of an electric motor, pumps out the cooling gas, and with the help of the condenser, the gas is injected. The radiator system cools the gas and converts it to a liquid state and then returns to the evaporator. As a consequence, the continuous cycle allows for constant evaporation.

Cooling cycle

In order to reduce energy consumption, as well as increase the service life of the device, reduce wear on the mechanical parts of the refrigeration unit, the device is equipped with a large and massive door, which performs the protective (insulating) function of the refrigerator chamber from external influences. The compressor motor does not run constantly due to a special system that controls the switching on and off of the refrigerator, allowing it to maintain the desired temperature in it.

The temperature control inside the household appliance is carried out by means of a temperature relay, which operates in the correct mode, constantly monitoring the switching on and off of the compressor. This happens when the temperature inside the refrigerator drops or rises above the set parameters. Automatic mechanisms are designed to create a continuous cycle of work.

At the moment when the refrigerator generates cold, the compressor motor runs at rated power, an electric current flows through the main network, supplied from the mains through a temperature relay, through closed contacts. At the same time, the relay activating the defrosting function is in the position of closed contacts. As a result of this, a closed working circuit is formed. The electricity consumed by a working refrigerator is equal to the rated power, which can be found in the instructions or technical passport.

When the temperature inside the refrigerator drops, a signal is sent to the relay, and the contacts open, and the compressor motor is turned off. Accordingly, an increase in temperature entails closing the contacts and turning on the compressor.

Then the following happens: when the compressor motor starts, and the refrigerator motor does not rotate, a starting start occurs, at the moment of which the consumed amount of electricity increases several times. The triggering mechanism of the relay responds to such changes, as a result of which the contacts are closed. When the contacts are closed, the starting winding of the motor is connected to the electricity network, and after the motor starts rotating, the power consumption is reduced from the starting power to the rated power. It is worth noting that starting the engine in the refrigerator, which is in good working order, takes place in a matter of seconds.

In turn, if a household appliance breaks down and it is impossible to start the engine the first time, the bimetallic plate heats up. The process takes about 15 seconds, after which the plate opens and breaks the circuit. The subsequent flow of current will be only after the plate has completely cooled down and another attempt to start the engine will follow. If this fails, the circuit will open again.

Thus, the refrigerator automatics starts working at the moment of start-up.

Diagnostics and troubleshooting of the refrigerator

After a detailed study of the principle of operation of the refrigerator, you can begin to identify malfunctions, as well as search for methods to eliminate them. It is necessary to clearly understand what kind of breakdown occurred, as well as soberly assess the chances of fixing it with your own hands.

In fact, all breakdowns that occur in refrigerators can be divided into two parts:

cooling of the interior of the refrigerator is not performed while the engine starts normally. In such a situation, the cause of the breakdown should be sought in the main components of the unit;
the refrigerator does not turn on, or it turns on for a short time, after which it turns off. With such a breakdown, the reason lies in a malfunction of the electrical circuit of the household appliance.

The master's case is afraid:

exactly so, the help of specialists in the repair of refrigerators is necessary in the first case, due to the fact that it will not be possible to fix the malfunction at home. It is possible that refrigerant gas has leaked in the refrigerator as a result of loss of tightness. In addition, it may be necessary to completely replace the main operating systems.

Household chores:

if your device has broken any electrical mechanism, most likely, the malfunction can be eliminated without the help of specialists. Naturally, the first step is to diagnose the breakdown and determine whether it is possible to fix it without replacing the main part.

Tools and diagnostics

So, having determined that the breakdown belongs to the second group, you need to arm yourself with tools: a universal tester and a screwdriver, a meager set, but quite effective. The first thing to do is to determine the quality of the voltage in the network. With high quality, its indicators will be equal to 220 Volts, anything lower may lead to a failure in the operation of the device.

Then it is necessary to carefully inspect the cord and power plug, thanks to which the necessary contact is ensured. They should not be damaged, broken, sparked or heated.

After that, you need to check the compressor terminals, they must also be in the proper form. Here you should check the voltage, and if its quality is good, unplug the refrigerator from the outlet. Further, all manipulations occur only in the disabled state.

It is also necessary to inspect the compressor itself. It is located at the bottom of the back of the household appliance. The compressor should not be damaged in any way, if any, it will be possible to determine the location of the breakdown.

After visual inspection, you should proceed to checking the integrity of the windings, in the same area there is a relay responsible for starting the refrigerator. Before inspection, you need to disconnect the flexible wires. Typically, the terminals are labeled accordingly to indicate their purpose.

To check the winding circuit for continuity, you need to put the tester in ohmmeter mode, then fix the free wire to the tester, and check the rest of the leads with the other end of the tester. In addition, diagnostics should also be performed in pairs. If the tester does not show any movements (deviations of the arrow), there is a possibility of damage to the circuit winding or a short circuit. If this is confirmed, you need to change the compressor motor.

It is also necessary to check the control circuits. This can be done by short-circuiting the two wires disconnected from the relay and checking the contact between the wires and the switching plug. If contact is found, it means that the cord, defrost and temperature sensor are in good working order. In the absence of contact, each unit is checked separately in order to identify malfunctions.

If there are kinks on the cord or near the plug, then they must be carefully examined, as practice shows, often there is a breakdown in these places.

Inspection of small parts

Quite often, the cause of a breakdown lies in small details, as a result of a malfunction of which, the integral operation of the system of the entire unit is disrupted.

To check this part, as well as the defrost controller, you must first remove them and disconnect the wiring. This can be done with a screwdriver. Using a tester, check each wire, if there is a short circuit, the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If the defrost function does not work, you can simply install a jumper. It is done with a metal bug. The only thing worth noting is that this method is only suitable for older models of refrigerators. Otherwise, if freezing is not controlled, a more serious failure may occur. This is due to the fact that the device will operate without shutdown control; this will need to be done manually. When installing a bug, you must do everything possible to fix the problem and remove it as quickly as possible.

The temperature sensor must be replaced in the event of a breakdown.

Replacing the refrigerator thermostat

Self repair

If, during full diagnostics, it was determined that the circuit is working normally and does not have openings, the start and protection relays should be checked. This can be done by removing the cover. It can be removed only if you drill out aluminum rivets, after which the cover is fastened using special screws and nuts.

On old-style refrigerators, such a lid is fastened with latches, which are pushed back with a screwdriver and the lid is removed.

The biggest problem of the relay is the burning of the contacts of the pair, it can also jam the core in the coil, the stem breaks and the spring wedges. The first thing to do to fix the breakdown is to first get the coil out, it is fastened with latches. After that, it is necessary to remove the core and contacts with the rod from the coil. The next step is to clean the parts from dirt and dust. Alcohol and a soft cloth can be used. If necessary, the core is cleaned with sandpaper or a file to ensure free play in the coil channel. All contacts are also subject to cleaning.

Quite often, a stem breakage is a consequence of a breakdown of the start and protection relay. You can replace the factory stock (plastic) with a homemade stock. It is made from a 5x35 mm nail, and a metal part will last longer than a plastic one.

After installing the stem, the start and protection relay is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly, installed in place, and the contacts are connected.

When contacts are oxidized, cleaned and quickly burned, you should use the services of specialists.

As you can see, repairing a refrigerator, in case of breakdowns of the second group, often does not require the help of a specialist. It is enough just to understand the circuit of your household appliance and assess your abilities. If you feel that you cannot repair even an elementary breakdown, it is recommended that you take your household appliance to a service center or call a specialist at home. You can follow its actions and subsequent breakdowns of this type, if any, fix it yourself.

In any case, each self-repair should be deliberate, you may damage the refrigerator more than fix it, and you will have to buy a new one, which will entail large financial costs.

Attention! This instruction is relevant to those who undertake to repair Soviet-made refrigerators (Donbass, Zil, Biryuza, Minsk). Modern refrigerators are equipped with other types of relays, motors and parts. The principle of operation is the same. Read more about DIY repairs.Craftsmen with extensive experience in the repair and maintenance of household appliances

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Inexpensive repair of household appliances from various manufacturers using original componentsService center for the repair and maintenance of home appliances. We are happy to help you repair any breakdown of refrigerators of various brands. The equipment is repaired at home, there is no need to take the equipment out of the house or try to carry out repairs with your own hands, which can aggravate the breakdown. Our craftsmen have passed certified training and have extensive experience in repair work. On our website, you can find out how much the repair costs, call the foreman at home by phone or by filling out an application on the website.

Replacement / refueling of freon

Odor elimination

Electronics repair

Replacing the seal

Replacing sensors / thermostats

You can also leave your feedback about our work: send your feedback by mail Having determined the cause of the breakdown, you can find out the approximate cost of repairing the refrigerator (spare parts are paid separately)Possible causes: defective power cord, defective electronic control unit / start-up relayPossible problems: dirty drainage, door sealed, refrigerant leaksPossible problems: thermostat malfunction, evaporator heater, motor failure, system blockagesPossible reasons: malfunction of the compressor, fan, evaporator, start-up relay, wear of shock absorbersPossible reasons: Freon leakage, thermal sensor malfunction, incorrect thermal mode, clogged capillary tubesPossible causes: refrigerant leakage, worn seals, clogged capillary system, faulty temperature sensorRefrigerator "Yuryuzan-207" KShD-220/40 two-chamber, made in the form of a metal floor cabinet with refrigerating and low-temperature chambers, closed by separate doors. The inner chamber is steel enameled. Refrigerator door openings are sealed with an elastic double-cylinder seal with a magnetic insert.
The refrigerator contains a number of comfort elements that facilitate its maintenance during operation:automatic defrosting of the refrigerating chamber evaporator in a cycle and defrosting water out of the chamber;restriction of door opening at an angle of 90 ° with the possibility of adjustment at an angle of 120 °;
the possibility of rearranging the shelves in the refrigerating chamber with an interval of not more than 50 mm in height and re-hanging the doors for right-hand or left-hand opening.
The compressor refrigeration unit operates on R12 refrigerant.
The low-temperature compartment is located at the top of the refrigerator. Melt water generated during defrosting of the low-temperature chamber is discharged through a hatch in the partition, which is closed with a special stopper (Fig. A).The defrosting of the evaporator of the low-temperature chamber is manual, carried out during the defrosting period.
The high humidity is constantly maintained in the refrigerating chamber, which makes it possible to reduce the shrinkage of unpackaged products. This is achieved by cooling the refrigerating chamber with a crying type evaporator, which defrosts during the non-working part of each cycle. Moisture from the evaporator flows into a tray located under the evaporator and through the drain device enters the defrost water tank and the evaporator.The electrical circuit of the refrigerator (Fig. B) is made according to the type of protection against electric shock class 0 (without grounded wires). DXM-5 electric motor.For heating the bulkhead and defrosting the evaporator, electric heaters PNVKh-70 are used.
In the refrigerating chamber, on the side wall, there is a T-128-18 thermostat that controls the operation of the refrigerator, and an electric lighting lamp.This refrigerator is very reliable, as evidenced by its year of "birth". The disadvantages include severe freezing of the freezer, nothing can be done with this, but you just have to put up with it. I also highly do not recommend helping with defrosting with any sharp object.Typical breakdowns of this refrigerator: malfunction of the starting-protective relay, malfunction of the thermostat, leakage of freon (refrigerant) from the system, very often they pierce the freezer chamber with a knife during defrosting. The motor compressor in this refrigerator is usually very reliable and breaks down extremely rarely, but there are cases.The scales contain R-12 refrigerant in a bottle of R-600.Video Repair of the Yuryuzan DH-180 refrigerator channel Seryoga master.siteManualHere you can download the operating manual for the Yuryuzan-207 refrigerator, 07.00.00.00.000.RE - there are also drawings of the mechanical and electrical components.Yuryuzan Mechanical Plant named after S. M. Kirov (PO YUMZ).This operation manual applies to the household electric refrigerator "Yuryuzan-207" KShD 220 | 40, with a capacity of 220 dm 3, manufactured for the needs of the national economy. The refrigerator is designed for short-term storage of food and cooling drinks in the refrigerator compartment and long-term storage of food and preparation of food ice in a low-temperature compartment.my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2255
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Instead of an epigraph:
"Our proud does not surrender to the enemy ..." "Yuryuzan 207" (KShD 220/40) 1990 issue)

Having honestly worked without complaints and breakdowns for more than 19 years, the aforementioned "two-chamber", suddenly stopped turning off, with all the ensuing consequences, such as: freezing of the "fur coat" in the freezer, the formation of "stalactites" in the refrigerator, add. consumption of e-mail energy and permanent expectation of the final failure. The question of choosing between repair and replacement of the unit has become very relevant.

The problem of repair, in turn, also had two ways of solving: independent (based on "Internet recommendations") and professional (based on calling a specialist).
The "visible" cause of the malfunction was found relatively easily (based on "Internet recommendations") and consisted in the destruction (due to metal corrosion) of three steel screws (to the "crying panel" of the refrigerating chamber) of the capillary tube of the thermostat sensing element (standard sensor - temperature relay T 132-1V).

Fastening the capillary tube to its original location did not restore the unit's performance. In accordance with the next "Internet recommendation", the standard sensor-relay was replaced with a sensor-relay TAM 133-1M (1,3).
The absence of opening of the relay contacts in any position of the temperature controller knob was preserved.

The study of the passport characteristics of the temperature sensors-relay showed that there is some variation in the indicator "Temperature of operation of control contacts, gC" for different modifications of the sensor-relay.
For example, "opening temperature, in the COLD / HEAT / NORM mode, grC":

T 132-1B: -22.5 ± 2 / -10 ± 2 / -;
TAM133-1M-1: -22.5 / -10.0 / -;
TAM133-1M-3: -26.0 / -11.0 / -;
TAM133-1M-15: -30.0 / -17.5 / -23.5;
TAM133-1M-20: -27.0 / -13.0 / -20.0;
TAM133-1M-46: -31.0 / -11.0 / -;
TAM133-1M-64: -23.0 / -9.0 / -13.0;
TAM133-1M-70: -31.0 / -11.5 / -;
TAM133-1M-75: -26.0 / -13.0 / -.

Obviously, the operation of the cooling panel of the refrigerator compartment does not provide a "break temperature" (

Refrigerators "Yuryuzan", which were produced until the end of the 90s in the city of the same name in the Urals (Chelyabinsk region), are distinguished by their simplicity of design, low price and exceptional maintainability.

These refrigerators cannot compete with the world famous imported models in the originality of design and do not differ in a variety of additional features. Their production was discontinued even before the advent of many technologies that are widely used in modern refrigerators. So "Yuryuzan" is a typical Soviet refrigerator with a standard arrangement of the freezer (the latest model "Yuryuzan-207" is a two-compartment one).

But their main task - to keep food and ready meals fresh - refrigerators "Yuryuzan" perform perfectly. In addition, they are remarkably adapted to domestic conditions and, first of all, to the Russian power grid with characteristic voltage drops that can damage the more advanced, but less protected compressors of many imported refrigerators.

The design of Yuryuzan refrigerators is such that during repair it is very easy to get to any unit to replace it. The Yuryuzan-207 has a completely collapsible structure, and this greatly speeds up and facilitates repairs. And efficiency is very important when it comes to repairing a budget-class refrigerator, which is usually one in a family.

As with all outdated refrigerators, for different Yuryuzan models, basically the same breakdowns are characteristic:

Compressor resource development, which can only be corrected by replacing it.
Depressurization of the system due to damage to metal elements (evaporator, pipelines) by corrosion, accompanied by leakage of refrigerant, as a result of which, after replacing damaged elements and sealing, it is necessary to charge the system with refrigerant again.
Faulty thermostat and start relay, as a result of which the refrigerator either turns on and off at the wrong frequency, or does not turn on at all. Replacement of a defective item is required.
Violation of the tightness at the junction of the door and the refrigerator or freezer. Eliminated by replacing the seal.

"Kholod Service" sells spare parts for refrigerators of domestic and foreign brands.

This refrigerator is a floor cabinet 5 (Fig. 1.).

Rice. one. Refrigerator "Chinar" KSH-240P:

1 - roller bearings; 2 - motor-compressor; 3 - drying cartridge; 4 - refrigeration unit: 5 - cabinet; 6 - plafond; 7 - tube: 8 - stop; 9 - capacitor; 10 - outer flange; 11 - thermal insulation; 12 — inner flange; 13 — evaporator; 14 — upper loop: 15 — handle; 16 — door; 17 — ice mold: 18 — base of the mold; 19 - pallet; 20 - thermostat; 21 - defroster button: 22 - tank; 23 - shelf: 24 - door: 25 - glass bottom; 26 - vessel; 27 - door seal; 28 - gasket; 29 - support; 30 - tank

Thermal insulation 11 is located between the walls of the refrigerating chamber and the cabinet. The cabinet is covered with enamel. The chamber is illuminated by a lamp, covered with a shade 6, which automatically turns on when the door 24 is opened by the handle 15. In the upper part of the refrigerating chamber there is an evaporator 13, which is closed by door 16. A mold 17 is installed in the evaporator for making ice, a base 18 of a mold and a tray 19. Refrigerating chamber equipped with removable metal shelves 23. In the lower part of the refrigerator there are plastic vessels 26, closed by a glass shelf 25, intended for storing vegetables and fruits. Tank 22 is used to store meat and fish.

To maintain the required thermal regime in the refrigerating chamber, a thermostat 20 is installed to automatically control the temperature inside the chamber.Cooling of the chamber is provided by a compression refrigeration unit 4, which consists of a motor-compressor 2, a condenser 9, an evaporator 13, pipelines and a drying cartridge 3. A rocker-type compressor with an internal suspension. Its casing is rigidly attached to the frame. The condenser is installed on the back of the cabinet. To protect the condenser tubes from damage, stop 8 is designed. The evaporator is introduced into the cabinet through the opening in the rear wall and is closed by two flanges - internal 12 and external 10.

The refrigerator is equipped with a semi-automatic natural defrosting system of the evaporator with defrosting water draining through tube 7 to tank 30 located under the refrigerator. The defroster button 21 is located next to the thermostat.

The design of the refrigerator provides for the possibility of re-hanging the door for left- and right-sided opening. The door hinge is adjusted using adjusting washers installed under the lower and upper 14 hinges of the door, as well as gaskets 28.

For easy movement of the refrigerator on the floor, there are roller supports 1, and for installing the refrigerator permanently - support 29.

Refrigerators "Chinar" and "Chinar-2" KSH-240P differ in that the refrigerating chamber in the Chinar refrigerator is plastic, and in the Chinar-2 refrigerator it is metal.

Bicameral refrigerator "Chinar-7" KShD-220/40 made in the form of a floor cabinet, inside which there are low-temperature and refrigerating chambers with separate doors.

The chambers are cooled by a compression refrigeration unit. The design of the refrigerator provides for automatic defrosting of the evaporator of the refrigerating chamber in a cyclic mode of operation and the removal of melt water outside the chamber. It is also possible to re-hang the chamber doors for left- and right-sided opening.

Photo gallery: DIY refrigerator repair

Repair of the refrigerator in case of revealing any malfunctions, it is advisable to trust professional masters, but a number of malfunctions can be identified and even repaired by yourself. The Land of Tips will tell you how to repair a refrigerator with your own hands.

The sequence of actions for troubleshooting is considered for compressor refrigerators without the NoFrost system.

A refrigerator is one of the most important household electrical appliances in the house of each of us, so even a daily “simple” refrigerator can turn into a host of problems. The list of the most common potential problems includes the following:

the refrigerator does not turn on
the refrigerator works, but does not "freeze"
refrigerator slightly "freezes"
the refrigerator is very cold

To begin with, you should remember the principle of the refrigerator. The refrigerator consists of a compressor, a condenser, an evaporator, connected by tubes. The so-called refrigerant circulates through the sealed piping system, i.e. gas, which has a low boiling point and evaporation: when expanding, it absorbs heat from the environment, and when it is compressed, it gives it away due to condensation. In most household refrigerators, freons act as a refrigerant, and ammonia is often used in industrial refrigeration units.

The refrigerant in the gaseous state flows from the evaporator to the motor-compressor, where it is compressed, and then fed to the condenser. In the condenser, the refrigerant, heated by compression, cools down and becomes a liquid state.

Liquid refrigerant under pressure enters the capillary tubes, and then into the inner cavity of the evaporator, as a result of which, after expansion and transition to a gaseous state, it absorbs heat from the walls of the evaporator. The inner space of the refrigerator compartment is thus cooled.

The refrigerator does not freeze: what to do

The cycle will be repeated until the temperature sensors in the refrigerating chamber record the desired temperature (it is set on the thermostat).After that, the thermostat opens the electrical circuit and the compressor turns off (to save energy consumption). When the temperature in the refrigerator compartment rises due to various external influences, the cycle repeats again.

For the refrigerator to work properly, the supply voltage must be within 200-240 V, otherwise the safety mechanisms of this electrical appliance will work. Therefore, before looking for a malfunction, you should check the voltage level in the mains. The check is carried out with a special measuring instrument, a voltmeter or a universal multimeter (tester). By installing the test leads to the contacts of the electrical outlet (only hold onto the insulated sections of the test leads!), You can find out the supply voltage in the network.

Do-it-yourself repair of Atlant refrigerators

If the mains voltage is within the specified range, a faulty plug or a faulty power cord is a possible cause of the problem. Replacing these elements with new ones should solve the problem.

If the voltage indicator light is on, then the cord and plug are in good order, it is necessary to check the thermostat. It is necessary to find two wires suitable for the thermostat, and, removing them from the terminals, close them together. If after this operation the refrigerator starts to work, then it is enough to replace the thermostat to continue the normal operation of the refrigerator.

If the thermostat is working properly, it is necessary to check the defrost button of the refrigerator, if any, in the same way.

If the previous measures did not help, then you must also check other elements of the refrigerator electrical circuit. With the help of an ohmmeter, it is necessary to "ring" the starting and protective relay of the refrigerator (sometimes the relays are assembled in one housing). If a break is found, the defective part should be replaced.

The motor-compressor is the most important element of the refrigerator, if it is faulty, then, as a rule, its complete replacement is required. Do-it-yourself refrigerator repair in the event of a compressor breakdown is impossible - only a professional can select and install a new compressor correctly.

Similar consequences are typical for several types of malfunctions: freon leakage, malfunction of the thermostat, malfunction of the motor-compressor.

In the event of a freon leak, the condenser, which normally should heat up (up to 70 ° C), remains cold even with prolonged compressor operation. It is difficult to find the place of freon leakage on your own - for this it is necessary to drain the refrigerant from the system and pump air into the system under pressure. The air jet will be felt at the point of the leak. The problem will be solved by refilling the refrigerator with refrigerant and sealing the leak - you need to call the master.

If you suspect a malfunction of the thermostat, it must be replaced with a known good one and the result of the work must be evaluated. Replace the defective thermostat or give it back for adjustment.

The malfunction of the motor-compressor can only be identified and eliminated by a specialist.

If the refrigerator "freezes", but weakly, then, perhaps, the previously described malfunction of the thermostat takes place. Actions in this case are similar to those described above.

Also, a slight "frost" can be a consequence of the depressurization of the refrigerating chamber - the sealing rubber on the door has lost its shape and elasticity. In this case, warm air from the outside can enter the inside of the refrigerating chamber, which reduces the performance of the compressor. The leaky "rubber" should be replaced.

The malfunction of the refrigerator, when the refrigerator is very "freezing", can be caused by improper adjustment of the thermostat - just set the knob of the thermostat to the "higher" temperature and the problem is solved.

The described malfunctions do not cover the entire list of possible malfunctions in the refrigerator. Do-it-yourself refrigerator repair becomes more complicated if the refrigerator is equipped with control microcircuits, etc.Only a specialist can provide assistance in this case.

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider the situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur who solders all sorts of electronic gizmos and has some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted.The more information about the breakdown you put in a post, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stuck and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the whole process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

Video (click to play).

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

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