In detail: do-it-yourself repair of IR illumination of a video camera from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Usually, when buying a product or device in stores and unpacking it at home, we come across various waste paper that tells us about the product itself. In addition to these pieces of paper, we can also often notice the rules for the use and repair of the device in the event of a malfunction. They are needed in order to warn the user, as well as warn him how to handle the equipment, because in case of improper handling, the store or service that provided us with this product can deprive us of the established warranty, after which we will be deprived of free repair of the device , in the event of a breakdown.
With regard tovideo monitoring systems, then it is not one single device, but several elements interconnected, making up a single system.
This system itself usually consists of a video recorder, video capture cards, a small number of cameras with certain functionality, a power supply unit, a hard disk for recording data, the necessary connectors for connecting wires, as well as a device for displaying an image.
Basically, after the installation of all equipment has been successful, the customer refuses further service, citing the fact that the manufacturer has already provided him with protection in the form of a guarantee. The warranty period for this type of equipment generally ranges from 1 to 3 years. Of course, installing such equipment, the customer, first of all, wants a longer service life, but anyway, sooner or later, any equipment may malfunction or even fail.
Video (click to play). |
Possible causes of equipment failures:
- No image on the monitor... In such cases, it is recommended to check, first of all, whether power is supplied to the monitor or TV, as well as to check the operation of the network itself. If the problem in the power supply was not found, then it follows that the fault is on the monitor or TV itself.
- One of the security cameras malfunctioning... A standard video surveillance kit usually includes 4 CCTV cameras, and if one of them fails, then first of all you need to check all the BNC register connectors. If, after checking the connectors, the camera still does not show signs of operation, then it is already worth checking the voltage in the network itself, using a special tester, which is sold in any electrical store.
The main reasons for equipment inoperability and breakdowns most often include:
- Lack of maintenance, improper performance or maintenance out of time;
- Incorrect installation of video cameras, mistakes when laying the control line;
- Deterioration of the main components of the video camera;
- Damage due to weather, mechanical damage from hooligans, branches, etc.
- Defective product;
- Too high or too low temperature at the installation site, high humidity;
- Failure of the power supply;
- Voltage surges and noise in the power supply or mains.
Most of the problems in the operation of video cameras are due to damaged wires or cables, which can be easily changed with a soldering iron.
If you have a video surveillance complex, for which some of the IP cameras no longer function, you should start by checking the video camera's uninterruptible power supply. It is he who most often fails.
In order to check the performance of the camera, it is necessary to test the performance of the infrared lamps installed around the camera to ensure shooting at night. If you cover these lamps with your palm and they do not light up, then the power supply of your surveillance system needs to be replaced. Another way to check if the camera is working is to connect its power supply to a voltmeter. If the output voltage is approximately 10-15 volts. If there are no problems with the power supply, you need to check the connector of the DVR. A non-working camera is connected to another connector, and if after that it works, then the DVR itself needs to be repaired.
When checking an IP camera, they also use a computer to which it is connected with special software to diagnose such problems. In this case, the camera must be displayed on the local network of your personal computer. It may be necessary to check the integrity of the cable with a tester. When the wire is short-circuited, without power supply, the tester will show that the resistance is equal to infinity. This means that somewhere your cable has broken, causing grounding.
If after all this your ip-camera does not work, then for further repairs you will need to disassemble the video camera. To do this, it is necessary to remove the housing, fixing elements, infrared lamps. After parsing, you need to inspect the camera circuit for swollen capacitors. If they are found, replacing them with elements with similar characteristics can help, and we check for heating when turned on. If after that the ip-camera does not work, you can try to connect the cable from another working camera to the non-working one. Broken cables in the tail of the device are a common problem. You can also try replacing parts of a non-working camera with modules that are working. Thus, you can quickly find problem modules and search for them. When assembling, after this, it is necessary to carefully fold everything in the same order and apply sealant at the points of attachment of the parts. This is required to avoid liquid getting inside the ip camera.
The most frequent breakdowns in the operation of video surveillance systems are:
- Problems with supplying power to any part of the video surveillance system;
- Damage or wear of control elements;
- Inoperability of the server for receiving data from the IP camera;
- Defocusing video cameras;
- Lens fogging;
- Failure of the microphone;
- Problems switching to different shooting modes;
Moreover, server failures are very costly and difficult to repair. It is almost impossible to do it with your own hands, and the cost of repair work is close to the price of buying a new kit.
When the ip-camera is working, and there is a control menu, but the image is missing, the problem most often consists in the breakdown of the camera matrix. The matrix of CCTV cameras is characterized by frequent burnout. They are sold in many electronics stores. Using a soldering iron, you can quickly replace it with your own hands.
If the video camera works, accepts all incoming commands, but the control menu and the image from the ip-camera are not displayed on the screen, the problem most often consists in a failure or malfunction with the video output card. It is also sold in electronics stores. To fix the problem, you will need to replace it.
Does the IP camera keep shutting down or rebooting at short intervals? Most often this happens due to overheating of microcircuits. In such cases, most often the source of the problem is or problems with different versions of the firmware on the camera itself and the software of the computer to which the image comes. It is necessary to update the version of software or firmware on the camera. Also, the problem may be in the wrong place for the ip-camera, if yours is not equipped with a protective casing, then in direct sunlight it may overheat. The best solution is to move it to a shaded area.
In case of problems with the rotation of a PTZ camera, the most common source is rust on the gear wheel of the rotating mechanism or its erasure. The best solution is to replace it.
This malfunction can occur due to cable problems. Check the cable connections to the device inputs and how well they are insulated. If this does not help, try replacing the cables.
There are no problems in the operation of ip cameras, and the footage is not saved.
The problem in this case is with the internal storage of the recorder. Try to test the connection of the ATA / SATA cable to the corresponding port on the hard drive. If that doesn't work, try connecting it to your computer and formatting and defragmenting it. If the problem persists, the best solution is to replace the hard drive;
It is caused by improper operation with the infrared (IR) illumination of the ip camera. To fix the problem, try to disassemble it and check all contacts between the light sensor and the camcorder. The cable may have been broken in some place. It is possible to try to replace the cable between the IR module and the input connector. If this does not help, you will need to replace the IR module.
First of all, check if the power is going to the DVR. If there are problems in the operation of his power supply. This can be done with a multimeter. Try replacing the dash cam power supply with a new one. If this does not help, then the best solution would be to take it to the service center for repair. It is a complex set of circuits, during the repair of which you can easily touch the unnecessary, therefore it is better to entrust its restoration to specialists.
ENGINEER'S BLOG
EL MB2.0 (3.6) budget outdoorDS-T103 HD-TVI Dome Camera
DS-T103 HD-TVI 2MP Dome Camera
DS-T100 - budget streetwearHD-TVI camcorder from HiWatch
DS-H104G - budget four channelAHD / HD-TVI / HD-CVI / CVBS DVR
Good day, everyone.Today, a little about cameras with built-in infrared illumination. This thing is undoubtedly very useful and, in some cases, without additional costs, can significantly increase the functionality of video surveillance systems. So far I have inserted the title picture from my own note about chinese video from a flower shop - nothing else was at hand, I will replace it on occasion. Built-in illumination works great indoors and outdoors, allows you to save energy on emergency lighting, while the cost of cameras increases almost imperceptibly. The secrecy of video surveillance is partly ensured (partly - because the emitting LEDs capture the visible spectrum and are visible in the dark). In general, now only a lazy manufacturer does not make backlit cameras. Naturally, one should not exaggerate its capabilities, one must carefully read the description and make an amendment for advertising antics - it says "up to 20m", which means it will shine for 10 meters exactly, or maybe more.
It should also be remembered that the backlight requires some energy consumption.It often happens that, for inexperienced installers, remote cameras powered by a source located in the center of the video surveillance go out stupidly with the onset of darkness - an increase in power consumption due to turned on LEDs leads to a drop in the supply voltage below the permissible value. I strongly recommend that you remember that Ohm's Law is not open to the high school physics exam, but to practical application. You can look at the note on the same site about the power supply of video cameras.
The possibilities of the built-in backlight should not be overestimated either - after all, the power budget of the camcorder is limited. In addition, the illumination is uneven - the radiation peak in the center, at the edges is much weaker, and the manufacturer, of course, declares the backlight range at the point of maximum radiation (plus a correction for advertising). If you need good lighting, you can install infrared projectors. They certainly cost money, but they can be placed closer to the observation area and their power is much higher. And yet - it's worth considering - is there really a need for hidden backlighting? In some cases, an ordinary flashlight is enough. And, of course, the requirement for external illumination, both visible and infrared, is not to blind the camera. Ideally, the light source is behind the camera. Or directional lighting.
Let's go back to the built-in backlight. A little about the design features.
At first, manufacturers began to blankly cover the LEDs and the lens with one glass. As a result, we ran into the light reflected from the glass. With clean glass, everything is fine, but as soon as it gets dirty (dust, drips from rain on the glass, etc.), the reflected light begins to blind the camera, and very seriously. In daylight, dustiness may not be noticeable, but as soon as the backlight is turned on, we have a pronounced image of dirty glass and darkness behind it. Once upon a time, at the delivery of the object, the customer was outraged by the fact that on one of the cameras there was a variable illumination, similar to the illumination of the headlights of a car, although the track was completely empty. I had to drive the installer to the roof. It turned out that a bug was crawling on the glass, the light from the belly was reflected, although he himself was out of the field of view of the camera. They giggled, of course, the object was handed over, but the sediment remained.
Because of this, I haven't seen backlit dome cameras for a long time - radiation from curved glass will in any case get into the lens. Therefore, new domes appeared - without glass. Well, this one, for example:
The LEDs are placed separately from the lens, the lenses focus their radiation, increasing the range along the axis of radiation and decreasing the illumination at the edges. Specifically, I put this camera on a test drive, it was winter, I was too lazy to drag it out into the street, I put it inside with a view of the window - like this:
During the day, she showed herself quite nothing:
This does not detract from the advantages of the camcorder. It has a bunch of other flaws, but in this case it is immaculate - this is just an illustration of the glare from a dirty window. The same thing happens in cameras in which the LEDs are located under the same glass as the lens.
Another option to reconcile a classic dome with built-in LEDs is to install a rubber cuff on the lens that abuts against the glass and cuts off lateral radiation from the LEDs. Here's a concrete example - a camera with a rubber band on:
The rubber sleeve rests against the glass and cuts off the light-emitting diode radiation reflected from the glass.
And here are the test results. This is during the day:
And "here you are, hello" - the elementary zapannost of the dome came out - a strong illumination from one side. The radiation got through, most likely spreading inside the glass. It would not hit the lens if the glass was kept clean. In general, it turns out that classic domes and built-in lighting are poorly compatible concepts. Although I see similar cameras in advertisements. Maybe I don’t know something, but I try to bypass them - there are plenty to choose from.
The option of protection against backlighting with built-in LEDs for box cameras is shown in the photo below:
The camera has two glasses - one covers the lens, the other - the LEDs. And again, a protective cap around the lens:
Now there will definitely be no flare. Checked.
Here is a night photo of one of the objects taken with a camera with a similar protective glass design:
It is clear that the camera only illuminated the near part, there are a bunch of lanterns. But in any case, the backlight is on, the camera is in night mode, there is no backlight.
In general, when choosing cameras with built-in backlight, you should pay attention to their design features, taking into account what I have written here.
In short, ask questions in the comments, subscribe - the form is below.
An addition was received from one of the readers, I quote it below with my comment.
Problems that you did not mention.
1. finding the IR light source on the same axis with the camera optics. The absence of shadows in the picture and, therefore, its "three-dimensionality" The correct solution is to place 2 infrared illumination sources offset from the optical axis.
2. Heating the camera body from add. consumer email energy and hence the temperature drift of the matrix, leading to additional. noisy picture.
3. Reliability, failure or IR illumination or the matrix itself - leads to the replacement of the entire device as a whole.
4. impossibility to build in more or less powerful IR illumination.
My comment:
For your points:
1. about shadows - theoretically yes, but never really experienced any inconvenience from this. In principle, you can always add additional lighting.
2. I would say that the camera heats up much more in the sun during the day. Although, of course, in the dark, noise affects the sensitivity limit. Maybe because of our climate, when there are 2-3 weeks of hot nights a year, I don't attach much importance to this factor.
3. In general, they somehow changed the camera because of the backlight - the photodiode on her sausage, did not turn on, but this is rarely all the same. Well, the matrix is dead - it is either backlit or without - "f firebox".
4. A really serious illumination cannot be crammed into a small survey hospital, and this is useless - even a powerful searchlight will not cover the entire viewing sector, the issue of lighting must be resolved in a different way. Well, I met a turn with a zoom lens with a searchlight with a range of up to 100m.
In general, I will not argue strongly. If you do not mind, I will voice your opinion there in the supplement.
Thanks for participating.
I completely forgot - here is another option for infrared illumination - in separate modules attached to the sides of the camera. You cannot call it completely built-in, but, unlike individual infrared projectors, the backlight is turned on and off synchronously with the camera switching to night mode and vice versa. Here is a specific example from GERMIKOM.
This is a full-fledged vari-focal box camera with infrared illumination and, by the way, built-in lightning protection. Let's make a reservation right away - I'm not a fan of this company, and the issues of built-in lightning protection are quite controversial, so this is not an advertisement, but just an example of the performance of infrared illumination without illumination of the matrix by reflected radiation.
Just as ordered - I did not have time to write a note, as they brought me an addition to it (they brought a camera for verification).
p.p.p.s And this is just like that, in addition. The small dome camera in the window is reflected. The glass is clean this time (because I have it at home). The LEDs are clearly visible. All this is not visible to the eye - infrared after all.
Another addition. In summer, the radiation of the diodes attracts insects, which crowd around the lens all night long. At the same time, the motion recorder will write all night, emptying the disk. And cunning spiders begin to twist their cobwebs right on the lens, where there are more midges. The reflection from the web is very strong - a bright strip across the entire screen, knocking down the camera's sensitivity downward.
Admire how insanity everything can get:
And the midge itself clogs the visibility.
In general, there are problems. If possible, the illumination of outdoor cameras should be kept separate from the cameras.
I will dilute posts about replacing glasses and displays with a post about hardcore repair of an outdoor video camera that failed after a thunderstorm.
Here's a camera. I connect 12 V - the effect is zero, as is the current consumption.
Visual control under a microscope, without it in any way. Immediately I see a diode with a beautiful hole, I check it with a tester - the resistance is equal to infinity, so the diode is broken.
It was broken for a reason, but due to the flow of a large current through it. This is the reason.
Short-circuited six-legged DC-DC step down. I fix the board in a mega-convenient holder.
I blow off the diode and shimka, check the resistance of the power circuit - a few kilo-ohms, then everything is fine, there is no more short circuit. I take out an analogue from the bins.
I solder it in place and the diode.
I connect it to the power supply unit, set the current limitation to 100 ma, so as not to burn anything else.
72 ma is her native current consumption, so far everything is according to plan. I poke the oscilloscope on the throttle leg of the shimki.
Beauty, shimka works. I connect the camera to the monitor, everything is OK.
It seems to be all, but no. Infrared light does not work.
Could be replaced, but I have the same backlight from disassembly. I'll put it on.
The camera is working, will be installed by the installers back on the object. Everything.
A bit not a modest question, but still: How much does this work cost? It's just that this matrix costs about 400-600 rubles, and the backlight is even cheaper. Is it worth the candle?
In this case, the repair is equal to the cost of the diode and the shim. The diode was soldered free of charge from some kind of laptop board, and the shimka costs 20 rubles for Ali. This camera was at our client's facility, among others (several dozen), so it had to be restored. In more severe cases, of course, I change the module.
PS Do not count it as an advertisement, but if there is no work now, we can take it to ourselves)) It will be interesting - write)
Thanks for the offer, but there is work to do. I'm not only fixing modules from cameras))
Sometimes I also suffer so much, but you are so far away. (north of tomsk region)
I also change modules, nerves are cheaper.
The polarity reversal is unambiguous, the client is to blame.
Vertically in a vice, and from above neatly along the seam, along the knife, with a hammer.
a knife is better not. with a hacksaw for metal, carefully saw it along the seam and open it, and then glue it with dichloroethane. but you can just rewind with blue duct tape.
you can still black - in color, but blue is safer
The question is - you get the scheme of this camera was originally and did you know what was there? it's just that sometimes the inscription burns out and you can't make out what kind of part it was.
The question immediately arises regarding the replacement of shimok. They burn a lot in what. Is there a chipset (list) that will fit most of the time?
Announce the entire list, please!
Respect! instrument is nothing. I change modules.
Do you solder smd with a soldering iron or a hairdryer?
I solder with a hairdryer, solder with a soldering iron
Here the prospect of STM soldering is outlined, how to solder it so that the legs do not stick together? Is there solder paste on Ali (but I understand it only for a hair dryer), is it possible to apply it, and at the same time solder all the legs with a soldering iron?
use a flux, it increases the surface tension of the solder and the legs do not stick together, the main thing is to get the hang of it, well, the soldering iron is not like in the picture
Such a question: Hikvision outdoor IP camera, moisture ingress into the connector (IP68.) With rotting of the contact, the connector is restored (called back, pressed it, put the pass-through). It is possible that the storm is also to blame. Result: does not start from 12v power supply, with PoE turns on infrared illumination, but does not go into working mode. The problem is on the power board, the rest is working, replacing the power board from the donor was successful, now I am trying to resurrect the donor with broken glass for internal use. There are no visible breakdowns. Where to dig?
There is also an outdoor camera, no one undertakes to fix it. Maybe there is a desire to try?
OssYl cool, did you take on ebay?
@LabOfRepair, can you advise something)
Broken tablet Huaiwei Mediapad 7, not light, but simple. It turns on, comes to the Huaiwei screensaver and then the screen is cut off.The service could not help, they said that it was working, but for some reason the screen was cut down and they could not install the firmware.
I tried to roll back to the factory version, the same garbage, the screen is cut down and that's it.
If it is sewing normally, then it is very similar to a power problem - the tablet boots up, comes to startup, the current consumption rises sharply, there is a failure in one of the supply voltages and everything is cut down. Instead of a battery, you need to try to connect a laboratory power supply unit and start a tablet with it.
Where are you located? And then my tablet stopped charging when it was on (although the indicator shows charging), I'm looking for normal repairmen. Tablet GT-P6200.
Equipment diagnostics.
Let's say you have a video surveillance system, and one camera out of four stops showing.
Firstly, it is necessary to check whether the power is being supplied. Because most often it is not the video camera itself that fails, but its power supply.
Almost all modern devices have IR illumination located around the lens. We cover the light sensor or the front panel of the camera with our hand so as to exclude the ingress of light. Built-in IR illumination, should light up in red, you can see it through your fingers. Also, the voltage can be checked with a multimeter (tester) at the output of the power supply, most video cameras consume 12 volts.
Secondly, check the channel on the recorder (for AHD / TVI / Analog). We connect the faulty camera to another channel of the recorder, there are cases of burnout of one of the channels - the DVR will need to be repaired.
Dismantling and repair of a video surveillance camera.
If you did not reveal any problems - go to disassembly. It is good if there is a second same camera (working copy). We disassemble the faulty one first. Carefully open the case and unscrew the bolts securing the module / lens / IR illumination. We make a visual inspection of the equipment. We check the module for swollen capacitors, if we see problematic ones, perhaps their soldering to similar ones will help. Immediately after turning on the video camera, the chip on the module should start to warm up. On cheap or weak modules, radiators are usually not installed. If the chip is heating up, it means that power is coming to it.
Camera still showing no signs of life? We take the second (working) and put it on its tail - the problem one. There are broken wires in the tail of the camera. By rearranging the elements, we can establish what is out of order on our camera. If the module burns out, we replace it entirely, if the infrared IR-Cut filter, lens or IR LED illumination, they can also be replaced. DIY repair will consist in finding and replacing the faulty item. Nowadays, finding them in retail is not easy. The task will be greatly facilitated if there is a “donor”.
If digital ip camera stopped loading - try to "reset" it. On some models there is a reset button, which can be pressed with a pin / pin, or when the camera is turned on, two unused contacts on the power block are closed. Also came across models on which reset is displayed on the tail. If there are no reset buttons, you can try to reset it programmatically, using the settings via the web interface or the ResetTool utility. Happy renovation!
Hello everyone. Partizan IP CCTV camera under repair today IPO-VF1MPthat stopped working after a thunderstorm. A lot of such cameras are brought in for repairs, especially after weather disasters. Often, only the Lan interface burns out, but there are times when the processor fails, after which the repair of these cameras is not economically viable. Fault diagnosis To begin with, I connected the DC output of the camcorder to the laboratory power supply, and Lan to the network card of the computer. I described how IP cameras are connected in this article. The current consumption was 200mA, while it is not static, but changes in different periods of time. This indicates that the camera's firmware and processor are working properly.One of the important signs that the firmware with the processor is working properly is a click, about 30 seconds after the camera is powered up. Thus, switching from day to night mode is tested during boot. After waiting a few minutes, the computer still did not detect the LAN connection, and the Lan connection indicator on the camera itself did not light up either. Based on this, I assumed that the Lan interface of the camera was out of order. Disassembly and repair The camera is very easy to disassemble. First, unscrew the cover with the protective glass, then unscrew the three bolts that hold the entire IR illumination with the board. Camera without protective glass After unscrewing the bolts, I removed all the electronics from the case. PoE card with connected interface connectors. The first board, to which all the wires are connected, performs the PoE (Power over Ethernet) function, that is, supplying power to the camcorder not through a DC plug, but using a twisted pair cable and special Poe equipment. You can read more about this on Wikipedia. Having unscrewed 4 bolts I got to the main board itself. Removing the lens. It is not necessary to do this, but just in case, I took it off. Having applied power to the camera again, I determined that the microcircuit is very hot 8710A, it is also the Lan-interface of the camera. In a normal state, these microcircuits hardly heat up, so you need to change it unambiguously. Having completely removed the board, I installed it on the holder. To protect the plastic elements, I covered them with foil. Having applied flux to the soldering site, removed the microcircuit with an average air flow. After cleaning the soldering point, and tinning the tracks with lead-containing solder, I started preparing a new microcircuit for installation. Prepared soldering point For this, the microcircuit must be lubricated with flux, and all contacts must be well tinned. Prepared microcircuit for soldering Having installed the microcircuit on the board, he began to warm it with an average flow of air until the solder melted and the microcircuit sat down in its place. The temperature of the hair dryer was about 320 degrees. A new microcircuit is installed on the board. Also, after soldering the microcircuit with a hairdryer, you need to go over the contacts with a soldering iron in order to exclude possible undershoots. After cleaning, it's time to plug in all the connectors and check the camera. After energizing, the current consumption dropped to 90 mA. Consumption of a camcorder after installing a new microcircuit The computer recognized the local network connection, although the LED on the camcorder did not work. Local Area Connection Indicator LED If you look closely, you can see a black dot in the center of the LED, apparently the discharge was so strong that it was out of order. Since the connector is not collapsible, there is no way to change it. After installing the program for Partizan CMS video camera, it was possible to successfully connect to the camera. The picture was normal, the ping of the camera was smooth. Video camera image Also, I decided to check the switching to night mode, for this I covered the light sensor with my hand, which is located on the board with IR LEDs. The camera switched to black and white mode, consumption increased, which means everything is working properly. Image in night mode. Further, the camera was assembled and given to the owner. Thanks for watching and good luck with your renovations. my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2255 my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2255 my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2255 Here is such a scheme came across today. The transistor closes completely. I didn’t come across a comparator today. Then I will draw. IR.pdf 34.62 KB Downloaded: 1257 times Banned Take the comparator on the TL431 as a basis - then the key. Banned Redrawn from those that are. Yes, there are 4 groups of 6 LEDs with resistors, well, that's understandable. Banned Key problems - not enters into saturation from the control circuit or the properties of the transistor. If you do not have a "digital transition" for switching on, then the battery can be squeezed due to the constantly flowing current, especially at the border of switching on illumination. Banned You know very well that at high currents, a 2-fold change in the current of the voltage drop across the LED will not change much, but the brightness will change significantly. IR2.pdf 14.51 KB Downloaded: 1093 times Banned If the package is incorrect, there is a problem with the video quality at night. Poor images can be obtained by cameras installed in closed rooms where the lighting is turned off or on the street where the use of bright sources of visible light is undesirable (sleeping areas). There are several solutions to this problem: The main advantages of using IR illumination for CCTV camera are: The length of the infrared rays. Humans see light in the 40-700 nm (nanometer) range. Most models of IR illuminators generate radiation of length: Moreover, if IR LEDs emit up to 880 nm, then red dots of working IR diodes are visible. This can alert an intruder and reveal the location of a camera in a darkened room. Floodlights in the 930-850 nm range are absolutely invisible. But they are less effective and have a shorter detection range with comparable power. Thus, for detecting an intruder at an average distance, the most suitable IR range is 870-880 nm. Models of IR illuminators with such an operating range are the most popular and versatile in their effect. For long distances, it is better to use devices with a range of 790-820 nm. Sources of IR illumination operating at a wavelength of 940-950 nm. will be more effective at short distances. Effective lighting range. A combined parameter that is in direct proportion to the sensitivity of the video camera and the power of the source of infrared rays. This indicator depends on the number of IR LEDs and the current strength of each of them. But an increase in the distance by directly increasing the parameters occurs up to the critical limit - the "saturation region", after which an increase in the intensity of IR radiation becomes impractical. Radiation angle. As practice shows, an IR illumination device is most effective if its angle of radiation coincides with the viewing angle of the camera. otherwise, the image will be light in the middle of the frame and dark at the edges. Radiant flux strength - expressed in watts per steradian: A table comparing the main performance characteristics of different types of radiation sources used in a video surveillance system Application CCTV cameras with IR illumination depends on the distance of effective illumination of the control area. All IR sources are divided into 3 groups: It is advisable to use near IR illumination in the following cases: Medium and long distance floodlights are recommended for use: The easiest way to do DIY IR illumination for a CCTV camera - instead of conventional LEDs, solder IR LEDs - TSAL5100 into the matrix of the LED floodlight. High quality and reliable DIY IR floodlights for CCTV cameras to create quite difficult and economically impractical. The purchase of factory-made devices is quite affordable both in terms of cost and the ability to select optimal performance characteristics.
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Posts: 13
Posts: 13
I don't know which photoresistor, there is no marking, in the dark the resistance is greater than MΩ, in the light it drops sharply to several. KOhm.
Posts: 13
Posts: 13
I do not know if anyone else needs circuit options. Just in case, I sketched another one. The inscription on the SO8 body is worn out, but I think everyone already understands what could be there.
Posts: 13
Video (click to play).