DIY impulse power supply repair

In detail: DIY impulse power supply repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We repair a switching power supply, power supply, voltage converter ourselves, with our own hands. Malfunctions. Self-repair.

Repair of a switching power supply. Any person with basic electronic skills can independently repair a power supply or voltage converter. Proceed to identify the problem and rectify it. (10+)

We repair the switching power supply ourselves, with our own hands. Malfunctions

Attention! Some elements of the power supply are under mains voltage during operation. Make sure you are qualified to safely repair the switching power supply.

Diagnostics and repair of a switching power supply in most cases can be performed with basic skills in electronics.

For your attention a selection of materials:

PRaktika design of electronic circuits Art of design of devices. Element base. Typical schemes. Examples of finished devices. Detailed descriptions. Online calculation. Possibility to ask a question to the authors

Such a power supply consists of a high-voltage and a low-voltage part.

In the high-voltage section, the mains voltage is rectified and charges the filter capacitor. Thus, a constant voltage of about 310 volts is obtained. Further, this voltage is converted into pseudo-rectangular oscillations with a frequency of 10 - 100 kHz, which makes it possible, using small-sized pulse transformers, to convert into a low-voltage voltage with minimal losses.

In the low-voltage part, the incoming voltage with a frequency of 10 - 100 kHz is rectified, filtered and fed to the load. In addition, there are control and feedback circuits that provide the formation of the desired signals and maintain the stability of the output voltage.

Video (click to play).

When looking at a power supply board, it is usually easy to visually understand where the high voltage part is and where the low voltage part, since standards require these parts to be separated from each other at some distance in order to ensure the safety of the user. The high-voltage part is where the mains wire goes. The low voltage part is where the load wires come from.

Most household devices contain switching power supplies built on the basis of two circuit solutions - half-bridge and single-ended forward. See the diagram.

Not every power supply can be repaired. Now manufacturers proceed from the assumption that the power supply is a separate non-separable element that must be replaced as a whole - a monolithic module. Such a power supply unit can simply be sealed and non-separable. However, most power supplies can still be disassembled and repaired.

In my experience, 40% of faults are due to the breakdown of the diode in the input network bridge or filter capacitor, 30% - to the breakdown of the power switch - a transistor or field-effect transistor in the high-voltage part, 15% - to the breakdown of power rectifier diodes in the low-voltage part, 10% - on burning of the throttle of the output filter. The other 5% of cases are not worth thinking about. In these cases, we carry the unit to the workshop or replace it as a whole.

The first two cases are usually manifested by burnout of the input fuse. The third and fourth are manifested in the absence of an output voltage in the presence of an input voltage and a working fuse.

We open the converter. Checking the fuse. We draw a conclusion.

If the fuse is defective, then, most likely, the input bridge, filter capacitor or power switch has burned out. We examine the block board. A defective high voltage filter capacitor is usually easy to spot visually. On breakdown, it collapses or swells. It can also be removed and checked with a tester. It is necessary to solder and check immediately both the input power bridge (it can be either monolithic or consist of free-standing diodes) and the filter capacitor (such a large electrolytic capacitor in the high-voltage part, or maybe a block of capacitors connected in parallel or in series), and power switches / one power switch for a single-cycle version (these are transistors or field switches installed on the radiator). We change everything that has burned out. If you check and change one part at a time, then with each new check, the entire power section can burn out again and again.

Replacement parts are easy to buy now. Take the time to find a seller with the lowest price. Prices can vary up to three times.

Replace the fuse, turn it on gently. It should work. If it doesn't work, we take it to the workshop or just buy a new unit.

Why do the elements of the high-voltage part burn out? Due to power surges. Power supplies must provide a protection circuit against such surges. Manufacturers lay it down, otherwise they will not pass certification, so there is a place and holes for it on the board. But for the sake of economy, they do not put it. The presence on the board in the high-voltage part of the place with empty holes and a jumper above them tells us about this problem. To avoid new problems, you can choose the right security elements and install them, but this is quite difficult. It's easier to leave everything as it is, and power the device through a good mains voltage filter. In general, it is better to power all electronic devices at home through such filters. Only the filter should be really good; there should be protective elements in it, and not jumpers.

Most likely, the rectifier diode is broken, or the filter choke in the output, low-voltage part of the circuit has burned out. Electrolytic capacitors may still be pierced. The breakdown of capacitors is clearly visible during visual inspection for swelling or deformation; you will not miss a burnt choke either. The diode will have to be removed and checked with a tester. Capacitors and diodes must be replaced with new ones. The choke can be rewound. To do this, you need to take it out, disassemble it, wind up the burnt wire, counting the turns. Wind the required number of turns with a new wire of a suitable diameter. Install the throttle in place.

Such a malfunction arises from the fact that the temperature regime of the unit is violated. For example, it is installed in a place where there is no normal ventilation, cooling. Install your equipment so that it is well ventilated and cooled. Do not block the ventilation openings.

Read also:  DIY Mystery Amplifier Repair

Most modern consumer electronic equipment has in its design independent or located on a separate board electronic modules that reduce and rectify the mains voltage.

There are several reasons for this, but the main ones are:

  • fluctuations in the mains voltage, for which these step-down-rectifier devices are not designed;
  • non-observance of operating rules;
  • connecting a load for which the devices are not designed.

Of course, it can be very offensive when you need to do urgent work, and the power module of the computer is faulty, or while watching your favorite TV show, this device fails.

Do not immediately panic and go to a repair shop or rush to an electronics supermarket to purchase a new unit. Often the reasons for inoperability are so trivial that they can be eliminated at home, with minimal expenditure of financial resources and nerves.

Image - DIY impulse power supply repair

Of course, in order to try not only to repair the switching power supply, but also to determine its malfunction, you must have basic knowledge of electronics and have certain electrical skills.

As part of any power supply, whether built-in, like in a TV or installed as a separate device, like in a desktop computer, there are two functional blocks - high-voltage and low-voltage.

In the high-voltage side, the mains voltage is converted by the diode bridge into a constant voltage, and smoothed on the capacitor to the level of 300.0 ... 310.0 volts. Constant, high voltage is converted into a pulse voltage with a frequency of 10.0 ... 100.0 kilohertz, which makes it possible to abandon massive low-frequency step-down transformers, replacing them with small-sized pulse ones.

In the low-voltage unit, the impulse voltage is lowered to the required level, straightened, stabilized and smoothed out. At the output of this unit, there is one or more voltages required to power household appliances. In addition, various control circuits are mounted in the low-voltage unit, which make it possible to increase the reliability of the device and ensure the stability of the output parameters.

Visually, on a real board, it is quite easy to distinguish between the high-voltage and low-voltage parts. The network wires are suitable for the first, and the supply wires go from the second.

Image - DIY impulse power supply repair

Switching regulator in the transistor power supply

A person who is going to try to repair a power supply unit for household electronic equipment must be prepared in advance that not every power supply device can be repaired. Today, some manufacturers produce electronics, the blocks of which are not subject to repair, but complete replacement.

Not a single master will undertake the repair of such a power supply unit, because initially it is intended for the complete dismantling of the old device with replacement with a new one. Often, such electronic devices are simply filled with some kind of compound, which immediately removes the question of its maintainability.

As statistics show, the main malfunctions of the power supply are caused by:

  • malfunction of the high-voltage part (40.0%), which are expressed by the breakdown (burnout) of the diode bridge and the failure of the filter capacitor;
  • breakdown of a power field-effect or bipolar transistor (30.0%), which forms high-frequency pulses and is located in the high-voltage part;
  • breakdown of the diode bridge (15.0%) in the low-voltage part;
  • breakdown (burnout) of the choke windings of the output filter.

In other cases, the diagnosis is quite difficult and without special devices (oscilloscope, digital voltmeter) it will not be possible to perform it. Therefore, if the malfunction of the power supply is not caused by the four above-mentioned main reasons, you should not engage in home repairs, but immediately call a master for replacement or purchase a new power supply device.

Faults in the high-voltage section are easy enough to detect. They are diagnosed by a blown fuse and a lack of voltage after it. The third and fourth cases can be assumed if the fuse is good, the voltage at the input of the low-voltage unit is present, and the input voltage is absent.

It is advisable to check all the details at the same time. If several electronic elements are burned out, when one of them is replaced with a serviceable one, it may burn out again due to a complex malfunction that has not been eliminated.

After replacing parts, you must install a new fuse and turn on the power supply. As a rule, after this, the power supply begins to work.

If the fuse has not blown, and there is no voltage at the output of the power supply, then the cause of the malfunction is the breakdown of the rectifier diodes of the low-voltage part, the burnout of the inductor or the output of the electrolytic capacitors of the secondary rectifier unit.

Malfunction of capacitors is diagnosed when they are swollen or fluid leaks out of their body. The diodes must be evaporated and checked with a tester in the same way as checking the high-voltage part. The integrity of the choke winding is checked by a tester. All defective parts must be replaced.

If you cannot find the desired choke, then some "craftsmen" rewind the burned-out one, picking up a wire of a suitable diameter and determining the number of turns. Such work is quite painstaking and is usually performed only for unique power supplies, it is difficult to find an analogue for which.

As already mentioned, most power supplies for modern computers and TVs are built according to a typical scheme. They differ in the size of the electronic parts used and in the output power. The diagnostics and troubleshooting procedures for these devices are identical.

However, a high-quality repair requires an appropriate tool, the range of which includes:

  • soldering iron (preferably with adjustable power);
  • solder, flux, alcohol or refined gasoline (Galosha);
  • device for removing molten solder (desoldering pump);
  • Screwdriver Set;
  • side cutters (nippers);
  • household multimeter (tester)
  • tweezers;
  • 100.0 watt incandescent lamp (used as ballast load).

In principle, simple TVs can be repaired without a circuit, but the main difficulty in repairing some models is that the power supply device generates the entire range of voltages - including the high-voltage used to scan the kinescope. The power supplies for household computers are made according to the same type of scheme. Let us consider separately the methodology for determining the malfunction and repairing the TV and desktop.

A malfunction of the TV power module is first of all evidenced by the absence of a glow of the "sleep" mode diode. The first repair operations are:

  • check for the integrity (absence of breakage) of the supply voltage cord;
  • disassembly of the television receiver and release of the electronic board;
  • inspection of the power supply board for the presence of externally faulty parts (swollen capacitors, burnt spots on the printed circuit board, burst cases, charred surface of resistors);
  • checking the soldering points, with special attention paid to soldering the contacts of the pulse transformer.
Read also:  DIY open balcony repair

If it was not possible to visually establish the defective part, then it is necessary to sequentially check the performance of the fuse, diodes, electrolytic capacitors and transistors. Unfortunately, if the control microcircuits are out of order, their malfunction can be established only indirectly - when, with completely serviceable discrete elements, the operational state of the power supply does not occur.

The most common reasons for the inoperability of television units are:

  • breakage of ballast resistance;
  • inoperability (short circuit) of the high voltage filter capacitor;
  • malfunction of the secondary voltage filter capacitors;
  • breakdown or burnout of rectifier diodes.

All these parts (except for rectifier diodes) can be checked without removing them from the board. If it was possible to identify the faulty part, then it is replaced and they begin to check the repair performed. To do this, an incandescent lamp is installed in place of the fuse and the device is connected to the network.

Several options for the behavior of the repaired device are possible here:

  1. The light flashes and goes out, the sleep mode LED lights up, a raster appears on the screen. In this situation, the line scan voltage is measured first. If its value is too high, it is necessary to check and replace electrolytic capacitors with guaranteed serviceable ones. A similar situation manifests itself in the event of a malfunction of the optocouplers.
  2. If the lamp flashes and goes out, the LED does not light up, the raster is absent, then the pulse generator does not start. In this case, the voltage level on the electrolytic capacitor of the filter of the high-voltage part is checked. If it is below 280.0 ... 300.0 volts, then the following malfunctions are most likely:
    • one of the rectifier bridge diodes is broken;
    • large capacitor leakage (the capacitor is "old").

If there is no voltage, it is necessary to re-check the continuity of the supply circuits and all diodes of the high voltage rectifier.

  • If the light is high, you must immediately disconnect the power module from the network and re-check all electronic parts.
  • The above sequence and test scheme allow you to identify the main malfunctions of the power supply device of the television receiver.

    Image - DIY impulse power supply repair

    Today, ATX devices of various capacities are most widely used for powering desktop (desktop) designers. The reason for their repair should be:

    • the motherboard does not start (the computer is completely inoperative);
    • the cooling fan of the device itself does not rotate;
    • the block “tries” to start itself many times.

    Before starting the repair of ATX devices, it is necessary to assemble the load circuit (figure). The repair is carried out in the following sequence:

    • the device is removed from the computer and the cover is removed from it;
    • a vacuum cleaner and a brush removes dust from electronic boards and surfaces of parts;
    • external examination of electronic elements and printed circuit boards;
    • a load device is connected.

    If, when turned on, the lamp flashes brightly and continues to burn, then the diode bridge in the high-voltage part or the filter capacitor is out of order. Burnout of the high-voltage transformer is possible.

    If the fuse is intact, then the reason for inoperability may be:

    • failure of the transistors of the pulse generator;
    • malfunction of the PWM controller.

    In these cases, it is easier to purchase a new device, which, depending on the capacity, costs from 600 to 800 rubles.

    With repeated self-starting of the device, the reason for inoperability is usually the failure of the reference voltage stabilizer. In this case, the computer system cannot pass the self-test mode, it turns off and turns on the power module.

    The switching power supply is built into most household appliances. As practice shows, it is this unit that often fails, requiring replacement.

    The high voltage constantly passing through the power supply does not have the best effect on its elements. And it's not about the manufacturers' mistakes. By increasing the service life by mounting additional protection, you can achieve the reliability of the protected parts, but lose it on the newly installed ones. In addition, additional elements complicate the repair - it becomes difficult to understand all the intricacies of the resulting scheme.

    Manufacturers have solved this problem radically, reducing the cost of the UPS and making it monolithic, non-separable. Such disposable devices are becoming more common. But, if you are lucky - the collapsible unit has failed, self-repair is quite possible.

    The principle of operation is the same for all UPSs. The differences concern only schemes and types of parts. Therefore, it is quite simple to understand the breakdown, having basic knowledge of electrical engineering.

    Image - DIY impulse power supply repair

    You will need a voltmeter for repairs.

    It measures the voltage across an electrolytic capacitor. It is highlighted in the photo. If the voltage is 300 V, the fuse is intact and all other related elements (power filter, power cable, input chokes) are in good order.

    There are models with two small capacitors. In this case, the normal functioning of these elements is evidenced by a constant voltage of 150 V on each of the capacitors.

    In the absence of voltage, you need to ring the diodes of the rectifier bridge, the capacitor, the fuse itself, and so on.The insidiousness of the fuses is that, having failed, they outwardly do not differ in any way from the working samples. The fault can only be detected through a dial tone - a blown fuse will show a high resistance.

    Having found a faulty fuse, you should carefully inspect the board, since it often fails at the same time as other elements.

    • power or rectifier bridge (looks like a monolithic block or may consist of four diodes);
    • filter capacitor (looks like a large block or several blocks connected in parallel or in series) located in the high-voltage part of the block;
    • transistors installed on the radiator (these are field switches - power switches).

    Important. All parts are soldered and replaced at the same time! Replacing in turn will lead to burnout of the power unit each time.

    For certain purposes, a switching power supply can be assembled independently from scrap parts. Read more about this here.

    Burnt-out elements must be replaced with new ones. The radio market offers a rich assortment of parts for power supplies. Finding good options at the lowest prices is pretty easy.

    • voltage drops;
    • lack of protection (there is space for it, but the element itself is not installed - this is how manufacturers save).
    Read also:  Niva chevrolet do-it-yourself repair starter does not work

    Solution this malfunction of switching power supplies:

    • install protection (it is not always possible to find the right part);
    • or use a mains voltage filter with good protective elements (no jumpers!).

    Image - DIY impulse power supply repair

    Another common cause of a power supply malfunction has nothing to do with a fuse. We are talking about the absence of an output voltage with a fully functional such element.
    Solution:
    1. Swollen Condenser - Desoldering and replacement required.
    2. Failed choke - it is necessary to remove the element and change the winding. The damaged wire is unwound. In this case, the turns are counted. Then a new wire of a suitable section is wound on the same number of turns. The part is returned to its place.
    3. Deformed bridge diodes are replaced with new ones.
    4. If necessary, the parts are checked with a tester (if no damage is detected visually).

    It is quite possible to build a hot air soldering station yourself. A fan is used as a blower, and a spiral is used as a heater. The best option for a temperature controller for a soldering iron is a thyristor circuit.

    Breakdown reasons:

    • do not block ventilation openings;
    • provide optimal temperature conditions - cooling and ventilation.

    Things to Remember:

    1. The first connection of the unit is made to a 25-watt lamp. This is especially important after replacing diodes or transistor! If a mistake is made somewhere or a malfunction is not noticed, the passing current will not damage the entire device as a whole.
    2. When starting work, do not forget that a residual discharge remains on electrolytic capacitors for a long time. Before soldering the parts, it is necessary to short-circuit the capacitor leads. You cannot do this directly. It should be short-circuited through a resistance with a nominal value higher than 0.5 V.