In detail: do-it-yourself repair of induction hobs from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Electric, induction and gas hobs are used for cooking. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and there are also a number of malfunctions that can be eliminated independently if they occur. Do-it-yourself hob repair can be done subject to certain recommendations and if you have the necessary tools.
Glass ceramic hob BOSCH
Hob repair Bosch, in some cases, you can do it yourself.
If, with the power supply connected, one of the burners does not work or the entire device does not work, we carry out the following work:
We check with a multimeter the voltage in the outlet. If it is, then the problem lies with the hob itself. You can check using the indicator, but it only indicates the presence of voltage. A significant change in the current indicators can lead to the operation of protective mechanisms.
We check the condition of the electrical cord and plug. If there is mechanical damage, it will be enough to replace the cord or plug. You can also check the supplied current on the panel itself, since mechanical damage is not always the cause of the cord and plug malfunction.
If the cord with a plug, the socket is in good condition, we dismantle the hob.
Removing the hob
If you repair a glass-ceramic hob with your own hands, you should know that the malfunction of some structural elements can only be detected with a multimeter, by taking measurements in individual sections of the circuit. When considering a Bosh hob, you should pay attention to the following elements:
Video (click to play).
In the absence of resistance or at low rates, these elements should be replaced.
The work of some structural elements can only be detected with a multimeter.
Another common problem is a broken wire in the hob connection block. Under certain circumstances, they can burn out or, due to poor installation, there may be poor contact. Checking for such a malfunction can be quite simple.
Let's highlight a few more problems that lead to improper operation of the hob:
Some models have fuses that can blow out due to high voltage surges. Their cost is low, the replacement procedure is quite simple. In order to protect expensive equipment from such situations, you should install a surge protection device. If the fuses constantly fail, you should check the operating features of the equipment itself, since the problem may not be in the indicators of the supplied voltage.
The burner may not work due to the fact that the contact on the heating element has disappeared. If the wiring is unsoldered, you can resume work, for which you need to have a soldering iron and be able to use it. The problem may be associated with the power supply, which also often loses contact.
If the heating element is burned out, it must be replaced with a new one
The design of electric hobs is quite complex, but many of its elements are highly reliable.
The principle of operation of an induction hob is to directly heat the contents of the cookware, and not the surface of the stove or the cookware itself.Due to the fact that the hob remains constantly cold, such kitchen appliances are very popular.
There are several problems in which you can repair an induction hob yourself:
If the hob does not turn on or does not turn off immediately, do not panic. Modern models from the manufacturer in question are able to determine the type of cookware, its absence on the hob. Therefore, if the cookware is not suitable for induction heating or if it is not installed, then a protective mechanism is activated. Do not forget that induction cookers do not heat the hob itself.
If the heat is weak, then initially you should check the type of dishes used, whether it fits the recommendations.
Repairing induction hobs, as in the previous case, you need to start by checking the circuit for the presence or absence of contact. Fuses often fail, as there are often power surges in the network. In this case, simply change the fuse.
The rest of the repair of induction hobs is similar to the repair of electrical panels.
Induction hob
To repair the electric and induction hob, you need to have the following tools:
Screwdriver Set. In order to carry out many dismantling work, you need to have several different screwdrivers, which may differ in size and type of tip. In addition to ordinary screwdrivers, you should pay attention to the need for an indicator that detects the presence of voltage.
The mounting knife is often used when carrying out electrical work. As a rule, it is necessary for changing the length, stripping wire strands and other similar work.
Pliers are often used during assembly work. However, they often have a sharp part that can be used to cut the veins.
It is often necessary to have wire cutters.
In addition, a multimeter may be needed to determine the voltage value. It determines various parameters of the supplied current. A soldering iron may be needed when carrying out repair work.
In addition to all the obvious advantages, induction cookers have one feature that is directly related to the mechanism of operation of equipment - the complexity of self-diagnosis and the repair process in the event of a malfunction. However, with some basic skills and information from this article, you can repair an induction cooker with simple breakdowns with your own hands.
Breakdowns of induction cookers can be classified into the following types:
insufficient power;
one or more burners have broken;
the stove is completely out of order;
the hob does not turn on.
Before proceeding with the repair of your hob, make sure that it is disconnected from the power supply.
The most common cause of such a malfunction is damaged power cable... Unplug it from the outlet and check for defects. If found, replace the cable.
If the diameter of the bottom of the pan does not match the diameter of the hotplate, there may well be problems with the heating rate. It should be remembered: an induction cooker is very demanding on the choice of cookware. Check if your pot or pan is snug against the surface of the stove. When loosening of the pressure springs it is quite possible to repair the induction cooker - you just need to pull them up to the level specified in the instructions.
Matching the size of the cookware with the hotplate
The likely reason for such a breakdown is broken wiresconnecting the coil to the mains.If you own the skills of soldering, then you can do the repair yourself, if not, entrust the job to a professional workshop worker. Otherwise, you can only make the breakage worse by adding a couple of zeros to the cost of the repair.
Burnout induction coil - a rather rare case that occurs during the operation of induction cookers. Repair in this case will consist in simply replacing the burned-out coil with a new spare part. Replacement is a complex process that is recommended to be entrusted to specialists.
The most common problem leading to the complete inability of the hob to perform its functions is thermal fuse breakage or a transformer. In order to make a diagnosis, you must perform the following steps.
Check the power supply for the correct voltage.
Make sure the power cable and plug are in good working order.
Carry out the process of dismantling the induction cooker. To do this, disconnect the electrical wires and unscrew the panel from all fasteners.
A special device is used to check the transformer and fuse. — a multimeter that measures the resistivity of certain sections of the circuit.
If resistance is found in the section of the circuit where it should not be, replace the corresponding element.
Voltage tester
Before installing the induction hob in its original place, make sure that there is no damage to the connections. The problem areas that need special attention are the control unit, thermostat and power switches.
To repair induction hobs with your own hands in this case, first of all, you need check fuse... In the event of a breakdown, you must replace it with a new one. There may be several reasons why the fuse could fail:
the fuse did not cope with the load;
shorted the transistors.
Induction hob transistor
To check the transistors for shorts, follow these steps:
disassemble the induction cooker and disconnect the board;
carry out the "ringing" of the transistors and the diode bridge using a special multimeter;
if resistance is found in the sections of the chain, replace the broken elements;
assemble the system and re-ring the circuit.
Important: if you do not have at least the initial skills in the field of electronics, contact a specialized workshop, which will provide you with professional assistance.
To avoid problems with induction hobs, you should follow the rules of their operation.
The high manufacturability of hobs raises doubts about the possibility of repairing them with their own hands from users and home craftsmen. But, like all sophisticated electronic equipment, kitchen surfaces are made up of separate functional units that interact with each other.
Having understood the functionality and interaction of components, having studied the methods for determining common malfunctions, understanding what and thanks to what turns on, you can, without resorting to the services of masters, carry out a simple repair of the hob with your own hands.
All modern hobs work according to the same principle - the user acts on the control sensors, thereby turning on the power relays that switch large currents in the heating elements.
Therefore, first you need to localize the breakdown, that is, determine the defective node. It is assumed that the cable, connection terminals, fuse, voltage presence is checked, and command set errors are excluded.
Cooking surfaces (panels) are electric heating kitchen appliances (electric stoves) that have glass-ceramic outer cover.Glass-ceramic has great strength, allowing it to withstand a significant weight of dishes, and has good thermal conductivity.
The attractive appearance, which some manufacturers (for example, Hansa) complement with artistic decorations, allows the stylish hob to successfully fit into the modern kitchen design.
Artistic hob design
Heating elements hidden under the glass-ceramic surface are of several types:
Spiral, working like conventional heating elements;
Corrugated tapes (modified filaments);
Halogen infrared lamps (HaloLight technology);
Induction coils that only heat the cookware material.
Various designs of thermoelectric burners
Burners of the first three types convert electric current into heat according to the Joule-Lenz law in the same way as an incandescent filament in a conventional light bulb or a spiral in a conventional electric heating element is heated. The principle of heating using induction is described in detail in the article on induction boilers. Do-it-yourself repair of induction hobs will be discussed below.
Thermoelectric heaters have a heat-releasing corrugation or spiral laid in a heat-resistant material, connection terminals, as well as heating sensors presented in the form of a bimetallic plate located on the line of the radius or diameter of the burner. Expanding, the bimetallic plate acts on the contacts, closing or opening them.
Hob burner device
Depending on the design of the hob, the temperature sensor contacts can be power contacts (acting like a thermostat), or signal contacts included in the electronic control circuit. Malfunctioning sensors (thermostats) are a common reason that the hob does not turn on.
In general, repairing hobs differs little from repairing electric stoves, which is described in detail in one of the articles of this resource. The main visual difference is the presence of a glass-ceramic surface and the type of heaters, the spirals of which are visible through the transparent surface. Also a characteristic distinguishing feature is sensory electronic unit and the complete absence of the usual control levers.
Hob touch control unit
Therefore, the greatest difficulty in the repair of electric hobs is the electronic touch control unit, which is also a display. To repair it with your own hands, you will need knowledge in radio engineering and special equipment.
But otherwise, the hob is not much different from an electric stove - the heating elements are switched on by power relays, controlled by an electronic control board, which receives signals from the sensor.
But at first, even without disassembling the hob case, you can determine the malfunction of the touch display and the electronic control unit. As a rule, the receipt of a command from the user is accompanied by a sound signal and is displayed on the display. If there is no reaction to touch, then it becomes clear that there is a breakdown in the sensor.
Indication of a properly working hob
The sensitivity of the sensor may deteriorate due to severe surface contamination. It should be remembered that the entire glass-ceramic surface of the hob requires careful maintenance and cleaning, otherwise cracks may form from the accumulation of limescale and burning.
Operating a stove with cracked glass ceramics will lead to its further destruction and breakdown, therefore, timely care and cleaning of the hobs is needed, as shown in the video:
If cleaning the surface above the sensor does not bring any results, you should disconnect the hob from the mains, first disconnect the line, disassemble the case and remove the electronic board with sensors.
Electronic board with display elements and control sensors
As you can see from the figure, the electronic board of the control unit has many small parts, including microcircuits, so repairing such a module with your own hands requires deep knowledge of radio engineering. If the malfunction of the sensor control unit is reliably established, then it is better to take this board to a specialized repair shop.
If surface diagnostics have not yielded results (the command turns on, but heating does not occur), you should look for a malfunction in the power switching unit. Some models of hobs can independently diagnose some malfunctions, signaling them using the error codes that appear on the display. You should carefully study the user manual and these codes - this will save time when troubleshooting.
Error codes for some hobs
The power control unit (switching) of the hob consists of relay groupscontrolled by an electronic sensor unit. When the operating mode is selected, one or more relays are energized, supplying power to the respective heating elements.
Arrows indicate power relays
Even for a novice master, it will be easy to disassemble the panel case with his own hands in order to independently determine the malfunction of a heating element or power relay. For this purpose, you will need a multimeter and skills to work with it. You will also need to determine the type of heating element itself in order to check it correctly (for example, the resistance of the induction coil is close to zero).
More experienced craftsmen often use a different method - they check the voltage supply to the main nodes, moving from the power terminals through the power relays to the heating elements. The power relay contacts may burn due to frequent switching on, and checking the presence of voltage at the input terminals of the burner will determine if the relay has been activated.
Measuring the supply voltage of a cooking zone
It should be remembered that many elements inside the enclosure carry life-threatening voltages. Working under stress requires focus, mindfulness and sober thinking.
If the terminals of the hotplate are normal supply voltage, you can check the performance of the heating element visually - the filament should be warmed up. But, if the burner turns on, but does not heat up to the required temperature, you need to measure the flowing current. The easiest way to do this without breaking the circuit is with a multimeter equipped with a clamp meter.
The use of a clamp meter to check the current in the power circuits of the hob
Knowing the maximum power of the burner and the supply voltage, you can calculate the rated current according to Ohm's law. In the case of heating elements that work like a heating element, a decrease in the current and heating temperature may be associated with malfunctions in the electronic control unit, thermostatic elements or in the power relays.
If the halogen burner does not heat well, then an internal chemical change in the composition of the gas in the heating element or degeneration of the spiral is possible. In this case, if all other possible malfunctions have been ruled out, the HaloLight Heater should be removed and replaced.
The appearance of the hob burners without glass-ceramic coating
It happens that the burner turns on, but after working for some time, it turns off ahead of time. Improper operation of the heating element may be due to a malfunction temperature sensorinstalled on the hotplate. In order not to change the entire expensive burner, you need to disassemble the sensor with your own hands, clean or bend its contacts, as shown in the video:
To diagnose and repair the hobs, you will have to dismantle the equipment from the countertop, disconnect the power terminals and disassemble the case. It must be remembered that the glass-ceramic coating is vulnerable to point impacts and loads. Therefore, when turning the hob over, avoid small objects falling under the surface so that the weight of the cabinet is not applied to one point.
Mandatory care in the workplace when repairing a hob
It goes without saying that bumps, scratches and carelessness should be avoided. You should carefully examine the hardware fastening mechanisms - these can be bolted connections, screws, or latches. Some elements, for example, an electronic board, can be additionally fixed with glue or adhesive tape. When disassembling a particular model of the hob, you should first study the articles, images, videos available on the Internet.
Experienced craftsmen always check the physical strength of the terminal connections (with the voltage removed) - very often it is poor contact that is the reason that some burner does not turn on. If a faulty burner is detected with a multimeter, or a breakdown in the electronic board is detected, then it can be turned off with one hand alone, without the aid of a soldering iron, and taken to a workshop, where, to replace radioelements or relays, you will need skills in working with a soldering iron and the ability to work with radio components.
In another video below, the wizard describes troubleshooting, shows the process of dismantling and disassembling equipment and identifying a faulty relay, implying that desoldering and soldering the relay is a well-known action.
You should check the circuits very carefully so as not to confuse anything. In the video above, the author confused the relay, but nothing terrible happened. But, far from always, an error during radio installation can do without consequences, such as a short circuit, burnout of power circuits and failure of radio components.
The peculiarities of the operation of induction heaters can very often be interpreted as a breakdown - the command is given, but the burner does not turn on, there is no characteristic glow, and heating does not occur. The fact is that the metal of the cookware and the coil of the burner form a single oscillatory circuit, due to which high-frequency oscillations arise that induce currents in the metal kitchen utensils.
Eddy and surface currents in the metal of the cookware heat it up, due to which the cooking process takes place. The hob itself does not emit heat at the same time, but it can heat up from the dishes standing on it. The induction hob's protection system will prevent it from turning on if there is nothing metal on it.
As mentioned above, the physical processes and the principle of heating using induction are described in detail in the previous article on induction boilers - you should familiarize yourself with this material in order to have an understanding of the operation of such equipment. In the case of hobs, induction heating is used to heat cookware, but the principle remains the same.
The working surface of the induction heater does not burn immediately after switching off
Repairing induction hobs requires an understanding of the high frequency generator and the self-oscillating processes that occur in the electronic circuit. The most susceptible to breakdowns are power switches (transistors), diodes and high-voltage capacitors that are part of the circuit. These transistors are often MOSFETs, and are not called bipolar semiconductors, but they can be detected as faulty.
You should find a diagram of an induction heater with designations of the nominal values of the elements.For masters who own an oscilloscope, it will be very helpful to have the oscillograms shown in the diagram, measured at the control points. Without circuitry and laboratory equipment, you can find a malfunction in the electronic board by visual inspection and nickname of individual components.
As shown in the video, technicians in service centers can determine faults in electronic circuits, relying on experience, having available equipment and a large stock of various element base in order to carry out repairs by replacing defective elements. Surface diagnostics of the main components is carried out by the breakdown test method.
The ability of metal parts to heat up in an alternating magnetic field has been used in everyday life for over 40 years. The appliances installed in the kitchen for cooking have a modern design, high-quality ceramic coating and high efficiency due to the direct heating of metal dishes.
Induction single burner hob
Despite the significant advantages of induction heating devices over conventional electric stoves, the repair of such products cannot always be carried out on our own.
The sophisticated microprocessor-based induction control installed in such devices requires a sufficiently high qualification of the master who repairs this household appliance. The absence of direct heating of the element emitting a magnetic field almost completely eliminates the possibility of faults such as "burnt out conductor". Therefore, if there are any serious deviations in the operation of this device, or the device does not turn on at all, then if you want to repair this device yourself, you will need:
minimal knowledge in the field of electronics;
diagnostic devices, soldering iron and soldering materials;
having a lot of free time;
moral readiness for the fact that after an attempt to independently repair such a complex device as an induction cooker, the device may be completely damaged.
If you have everything you need, the first thing to do is to identify the main causes of malfunction of modern induction cookers.
Unlike a conventional electric hotplate, there is a control unit inside the induction device, which often fails due to the ingress of liquid into the housing.
Of course, a short circuit is not always the cause of a device breakdown, but before starting repair work, it is necessary not only to perform certain diagnostic actions, but also to have a detailed "history".
If the induction cooker refused to work for no apparent reason, then you should be aware of the most common breakdowns of this type of equipment. Induction hob malfunction can be caused by:
improper use of a household appliance;
factory marriage;
short circuit as a result of liquid entering the device case.
If the induction hob was used correctly and the malfunction occurred during the warranty period, then the most correct solution in this case would be to contact the service center to carry out repairs under warranty. In all other situations, you can try your hand at repairing complex household appliances. Next, we will analyze the most common breakdowns of household induction cookers.
If the induction hob does not deliver the rated power during operation, then the device itself is not always the reason for this. Very often, a decrease in the power of this electrical device can be due to:
inconsistency in the magnitude of the voltage supplied in the home electrical network;
using the wrong dishes;
activation of electronic protection as a result of overheating of the winding.
With significant voltage deviations in the 220 V network, the induction cooker can not only work unstably, but also completely fail. If it is known that the voltage level is often not constant in a given area, it is recommended to install a stabilizer for induction hobs. When installing a voltage stabilizer, you should choose a model whose power must exceed the rated power of the stove by at least 10%.
Using pans with a bottom diameter that significantly exceeds the manufacturer's recommended values can also lead to unstable operation of the household appliance. A pot or pan that is too small can also reduce the power of the appliance.
When preparing food, make sure that the dishes are positioned exactly in the center of the hob. If the dishes are displaced relative to the center of the induction field, this will lead not only to a noticeable decrease in power, but also to an increase in the negative impact of magnetic radiation on the human body.
The plate also has a built-in protection against overheating of the winding, but the decrease in the device's power as a result of the operation of such a function is very rare. All induction hobs are equipped with a forced ventilation system that does its job perfectly. Overheating of the winding can occur when the plate is not placed on a solid surface. In this case, the stove may sink under the weight of the dishes and its own weight, which will necessarily lead to the overlap of the air intake openings in the device case.
Also, a decrease in the fan speed as a result of winding hair, threads or nylon fishing line on the motor shaft can trigger the protection. If a decrease in the power of the induction cooker is formed for this reason, then it is enough to disassemble the device and clean the fan blades and shaft from contamination.
If the decrease in the power of this device can not always be determined at the time of the malfunction, then in the event that the electric stove does not turn on, the device clearly needs an immediate inspection to identify critical violations.
Fortunately, situations when an electrician does not start the main element that emits a magnetic field are not always associated with a malfunction of the household appliance itself.
If the dishes are not made of a ferromagnetic alloy, then cooking in such kitchen utensils will not work. If you use pans with a bottom diameter that is significantly less than the recommended value, you will also not be able to turn on the device. If you use dishes for cooking that fully meet the requirements of the manufacturer of the household appliance, then you will need to carry out complex diagnostics of the device.
The reasons for the inoperability of the induction cooker:
The power cord is not fixed.
Fuse blown.
The coil control module has not been fixed.
When the power cord is faulty, the indicator light and any manifestations of the life of the household appliance are completely absent. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the device and use a multimeter to ring the cable from the plug to the terminals on the power filter board.
If a resistance equal to zero is obtained along any of the conductors, then first of all, you should inspect the wire at the point of its entry into the device case. Especially often, an internal break in the current-carrying conductor of the cable can be observed in this place in portable single-burner models. Such household appliances are much more often moved from place to place, which can lead to mechanical destruction of the copper conductor.
The second most popular place for the destruction of an electric current supply device is the plug.This malfunction is especially often manifested in inexpensive plates, in which, for the sake of economy, a conductor of a smaller diameter is used than necessary.
It is quite simple to eliminate both problems associated with violation of the integrity of the conductor. In the first case, to eliminate the breakdown, it is necessary:
If the reason for the inoperability of the device was caused by a malfunction of the power cord, then after assembly, the device can be immediately used for its intended purpose.
In the event that the malfunction is caused by a burnt wire in the plug, it must also be cut and replaced with a collapsible three-pin product.
The induction hob may not turn on at all due to a blown fuse. To replace the fuse, you will also need to disassemble the household appliance, but the repair process itself will not take much time, and to diagnose such a breakdown, it is enough to ring the part with a multimeter or tester.
If, during the implementation of diagnostic actions, an open circuit with a fuse is detected, then it is enough to replace this element, then assemble the household appliance, after which it will be possible to use the stove in standard mode.
Power module (rear view)
If the control module or touch panel is faulty, then most often the elimination of such a breakdown is performed by replacing it with a known good board. In inexpensive models, the IGBT transistor, which is involved in converting direct electricity to alternating current, may fail.
To check the transistor, it is enough to disconnect the power board on which this element is installed, turn it over and ring the part with a multimeter.
Before proceeding with diagnostic actions, it is necessary to discharge the high-voltage capacitors installed in the power board of the device.
In order not to damage the internal contacts of the device, it is recommended to perform this operation using a high-impedance resistance. After removing the residual electricity, if the transistor turns out to be punctured, it is enough to purchase a new electronic element and install it instead of the burned out part.
After dismantling the board, in addition to the power transistor, it is imperative to ring the diode bridge, which is made in the form of a four-pin microcircuit. If this part is defective, it must also be replaced. After completing the repair operations, the board is put in place, and the previously disconnected wires are installed in the corresponding connectors.
Do-it-yourself repair of a modern induction cooker can easily be done at home using conventional soldering materials, a soldering iron and a multimeter. Before embarking on a complex repair, you should definitely check the simplest problems that can happen with this household appliance. If you need to solder parts, then this operation should be done very carefully. Poorly soldered parts can also cause the device to shutdown, but diagnosing this malfunction will be much more difficult. In general, if the diagnosis is done correctly, then 90% of cases of device breakdown can be completely eliminated on our own.
Electrical induction devices have long been used in metallurgy and welding. Despite the apparent complexity of the devices, their manufacture does not belong to high technologies. Therefore, for two decades this principle has been widely used in everyday life: in particular, when creating electric stoves.
Breakdown of equipment with such a heater is not a big problem, however, service centers put up impressive price tags with each call. Therefore, if you have basic skills in radio modeling, you can repair the induction cooker with your own hands. Our review will tell about this.
The principle of operation is not based on the heating of metals by induced eddy currents.Any metal caught in the high-frequency magnetic field is intensely heated. To do this, several conditions must be met:
The material must effectively absorb the energy of the vortex field. Therefore, utensils for such plates are made of ferromagnetic metals. Most often it is steel.
The oscillation frequency of the alternating magnetic field must be at least 20-60 kHz; for this, appropriate generators are used.
The area of the induction field is very compact, so the metal (in this case the bottom of the cookware) should be as close to the inductor as possible.
From the point of view of the physics of the process, this is a high-frequency transformer.
The role of the primary winding is played by an inductor through which a high-frequency current flows. The secondary winding is nothing more than the bottom of the dishes, in which, when exposed to an alternating magnetic field, the same currents arise as in the coil. Due to this, a strong heating of the metal occurs.
Let's dwell on one more condition:
The surface area of both coils (and they are structurally flat) should be as equal as possible.
Only in this case is the balance of energy transfer ensured. What is it for? In empty space (above the inductor), eddy currents are idle. The "extra" energy of the magnetic field begins to overheat the primary coil. In addition, the excess temperature load is transferred to the output stages of the high frequency generator. If the cooling radiators fail, the circuit breaks down and the induction cooker components need to be repaired.
The illustration shows the main components of the heating element (conditionally without the upper "winding"), that is, the dishes are missing.
The temperature sensor monitors the degree of heating, and in critical modes it turns off the power.
The coil (primary winding) is a massive copper conductor tightly packed in a spiral shape.
The ferrites placed in the housing form a ferromagnetic complex together with the coil.
The printed circuit board of the high frequency alternator is equipped with an output stage heatsink with forced cooling (fan).
The generator body provides efficient airflow to the entire circuit.
Full power is not realized. As a rule, this situation occurs if the bottom of the cookware is located offset from the center of the burner, or the diameter of the bottom is significantly less than the size of the hob.It is possible that the burner is not pressed tightly from the bottom to the decorative surface (the fasteners are loose, or the pressure springs have burst). If the power changes abruptly, the reason may be the temperature sensor is triggered. It is necessary to find the reason for the overheating of the induction winding. The spiral can burn out or close between the turns.
Some of the cooking zones do not work. First of all, the power connection to the faulty nodes is checked. Each generator may have fuses. Also, overheating can damage the connector from the control unit to the inductor.
No response to touchpad. In the presence of grease, the sensors may not “feel” your fingers. Clean the surface. If this does not help, we check the connecting cables from the control panel to the inductor circuit.
There is no display of residual heat (in fact - the temperature of the hob in operation). The reason may be a breakdown of the thermal sensor. If it is working properly (you can check it on a working burner), you should replace it. Of course, we check the reliability of the connection of the connecting wires.
The cooling fan runs continuously. Propeller noise can be heard for some time after the end of work, the induction coil does not cool down immediately. If the fan runs immediately after turning on the power (when the hotplate is off), the temperature sensor may be faulty, or the temperature in the area of the hob is higher than + 50 ° C.
The fan is not working.There are only two reasons: either the motor burned out (we check it with a forced voltage supply), or a breakdown in the control circuit (temperature sensor, control module).
Unmotivated shutdown of the hob. To begin with, let's learn the standard reasons for the shutdown:
within 10 seconds after switching on, you do not perform any active actions;
burners (at least one of them) work in heating mode for more than 2 hours in a row;
If the above reasons are absent, we deal with the temperature sensors and the control panel.
The induction hob does not "see" the cookware. First, check the material of the pot or pan body. It must be marked accordingly (for induction hobs). As a last resort, you can check the metal with a permanent magnet. Non-magnetic materials (aluminum, copper alloys, stainless steel) are not detected by induction burners. If the dishes are in order, check the temperature sensor and the control unit again.
Helpful hint: if there is no suitable cookware, and you only have an induction cooker, use a ferromagnetic disc of a suitable diameter. These are available commercially, or can be made from a thick steel pan.
True, the cooking efficiency will sharply decrease, because the heat source will not be the dishes themselves, but the metal disc. But you can cook in your favorite copper pan or heat-resistant glass pan.
Important! The presence of liquid (even water) in a non-magnetic cookware will not cause the induction hob to work. This is not a microwave oven.
All the reasons why an induction hob "has the right" not to work have been verified: a complete repair remains. First of all, disconnect the hob from the power supply (even if you are confident as a master electrician).
Then you need to carefully remove the decorative surface to gain access to the insides. Regardless of the manufacturer's brand, prepared induction cookers look like this:
We make an external examination. Any traces of soot, discoloration of components, traces of temperature tarnishing on the metal should raise suspicion. The problem must be looked for from external manifestations.
If nothing suspicious is found, we proceed according to the algorithm “from simple to complex:
Tip: the repair process will be greatly simplified if you have at your disposal a schematic diagram of the electrical part. It can be downloaded on specialized repair sites or on the manufacturer's portal.
It doesn't matter that it may be in English (most likely it is). Any novice master who knows how to read diagrams will easily figure it out.
It will not be superfluous to photograph every step, especially before dismantling each unit. Subsequently, you will not make mistakes when assembling.
If you look at the simplified circuit, it becomes clear that one of the important components is the control transistor T1 of the output stage (the one that is cooled by the heatsink).
It is he who is susceptible to thermal overload, especially in the case of using dishes with a smaller diameter. The operation of the circuit is arranged in such a way that with an increased load on the induction coil, the operating current of the transistor increases sharply. A burned-out part is not necessarily diagnosed visually, since the radiator is in place and is efficient. Therefore, if there is a suspicion of a transistor failure, it must be checked individually.
Using a multimeter, you can easily identify a malfunction and replace this critical part.
Another contender for "flying out" is a power capacitor. In a simplified diagram, it is designated as Cr. It works directly with an induction coil and is also susceptible to overheating.
The algorithm is the same: if there are no traces of breakdown on it, we solder it and check it with a multimeter.
For an experienced radio amateur, repairing the generator board is quite a feasible task. And a beginner can rely mainly on visual checks and banal continuity of elements.