DIY tool repair

Modern life cannot be imagined without electrical appliances. It is also impossible to imagine that there is not even a small drill or electric screwdriver in the house. The zealous owner keeps in reserve a complete set of the necessary tools and, most importantly, does not throw anything away.

It is no secret that old equipment that has served its time can be repaired and it will serve for a long time. There is a fair opinion that before everything was done for centuries. Therefore, a faulty instrument that has served its time should be repaired.

Now the manufacturers of almost all goods are incorporating the so-called planned failure into the design of this or that technique. This is done in order to shorten the life of the product in order to force the buyer to purchase a new product as often as possible.

This unspoken rule applies to almost everything, including cars, regardless of price. Power tools are no exception. Hence the need arises for either frequent repairs or the acquisition of more and more "new" and "new" goods.

The novelty, as a rule, is also conditional and is associated more with marketing than with the actual improvement of the product. Proceeding from this, each of us often has the question of what to give with the accumulated broken equipment and whether it is worthwhile to repair the power tool with our own hands.

Brief content of the article:

There are a lot of arguments "for". I repair my home appliances myself, except in difficult cases. But I almost never go to the workshop. Paid repairs will sometimes cost more than buying a new broken thing, in particular a power tool.

Over the decades, my home has accumulated a lot of old electrical engineering that works great. DIY repair is not such a difficult business. There are many instructions on how to repair a power tool on the Internet, but I personally prefer to dig into everything myself.

You can start with a non-working electrical appliance whose wire is frayed. To the question, what is needed to repair a power tool, the answer is simple. First of all, you need a desire and a minimum of skills for the first time.

The work of replacing the electrical wire is not difficult. Direct replacement consists, as a rule, in unscrewing a pair of screws, but it must be borne in mind that sometimes it is quite difficult to disassemble an electrical appliance in order to replace a wire in it.

To do this, on various resources there are many all kinds of step-by-step instructions that describe in detail how to do this. I myself often watch these videos. The role of a pioneer is not always appropriate; incorrect disassembly can lead to the impossibility of further exploitation of expensive equipment.

It is not always wise to understand the intricacies of Chinese production yourself. This will take additional time.

Almost any technique can be restored to work, of course, unless it literally burned out. The most optimal thing is to make modular repairs. This is when the entire module is replaced, in which even a small detail has failed. Such repair is the most optimal.

For example, if the washing machine breaks down and there is confidence that the electronic control unit does not work, then it is easier and cheaper to change it than to install a new washing machine.

You can also change the belt yourself. And if the water does not heat up, then replacing the ten on your own will cost much less than the services of a master. This work is quite simple.

Such repairs belong to the category of medium complexity and can also be done independently. Of the typical malfunctions. If, for example, a drill works, then no, the problem is most likely with the electrical wire. It is "frayed" either near the plug or in the place where it is connected to the drill. You need to either replace the entire wire, or shorten it from the end where the break occurred.

It will not be superfluous to do this from both ends, since in these places the wire breaks down most often. It is not necessary to wrap the bare wire with an insulating flight wire; it is more correct and reliable to replace it all. If the tool is many years old, then it is time to replace the conductive brushes on the electric motor.

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Such repairs are usually daunting, but there is nothing difficult here either. In expensive electric motors, it is possible to replace the brushes. They are quite inexpensive, and repairing with your own hands will bring a lot of pleasure and will become the envy of neighbors.

There are all kinds of power tool repair kits at home. You just need to stock up on standard accessories. Of course, every possible type of screwdriver should be available at home. It is best to purchase a universal set.

You also need to keep in stock a small set of electrical wires of different types and sizes. Over the years, the prudent owner in the pantry accumulates a supply for all occasions. Again, do not throw away anything that may come in handy over time.

Insulating elements needed. The usual electrical tape is used less and less. Better to use heat-shrinkable tubing. These are the same multi-colored tubes that decrease in size when heated.

The temperature should be about 130 degrees, so it's a good idea to have a hair dryer in your house. Do not heat them with an open fire with a lighter. The pipe changes its properties from fire and will not last long.

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For quality repairs, spare parts from broken electrical equipment are also suitable. In general, everything will come in handy for repairs, do not throw away old things.

Safety measures must not be neglected both during the repair and during the operation of the repaired electrical equipment. The quality of the materials used must meet the requirements of reliability.

Do not reuse an old electrical wire if its insulation is broken.

You should not get too carried away with wrapping everything that is possible with electrical tape. This is a temporary renovation. When working even with the electrical device turned off, all necessary safety measures must be taken. We all know them perfectly.

If you do not have sufficient experience, you should not make a trial switch-on of the disassembled repaired device. Do not be lazy, collect, then turn on. Otherwise, it is likely that everything will end in injury or you will be electrocuted. Do not be afraid of such work, but strictly follow all safety measures.

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We all know that there is nothing eternal in particular, and a power tool that often does not fulfill its declared service life. In this article, we will consider repairing a power tool with our own hands, and find out how to repair a power tool, a grinder, a drill, an electric plane and other tools.

Breakdowns are of different types, some lie in a small-to-measure simple wire break or wear of the brushes, others, on the contrary, burned out winding of the armature or poles, now we will consider them by the type of malfunction:

Watch the mechanical part of the bearings, lubricate the gearbox.

An electric drill in a home workshop takes a special place. Therefore, tool breakage is a big enough nuisance. Despite the complexity of the design, it is quite possible to make an independent repair.

2.button with switch-on unit - can be equipped with

reverse switch (speed regulator);

3. shaft rotation speed regulator (or reverse switch);

4.gear case - carries out load-bearing functions for rotating

5. gears and reducer mechanism;

6. bearings of the shaft of the cartridge and the armature of the engine;

8. brush assembly of the electric motor;

9. chuck with drill or cutter holding mechanism.

The drill never breaks as a whole: one of the elements fails. Having understood the design and interconnection of the power tool assemblies, it will be easier to localize the malfunction.

Drill repair is carried out according to the principle "from simple to complex". You should not immediately disassemble the tool to the screw, and assess the condition of all nodes at the same time.

• The drill does not turn on. We start with the power cord (at least before that, you should check the voltage in the outlet and extension cord). Having disassembled the case, we find the cable contacts, and "ring" them with a multimeter.

Important! Do not check the power cable with voltage applied! If the current-carrying conductors break, you can get an electric shock, or organize a short circuit.

We connect to the socket of the mains plug and the opposite terminal of the cord. Then we bend the cable several times along its entire length. Lost contact or its complete absence indicates the presence of an open circuit inside the insulation. If the fracture of the current-carrying conductor is close to the edge, the cable is cut and reconnected. It will just be a little shorter. If the gap is in the middle of the length, it is better to replace the wire. The splicing will be unsafe.

• The cord is working properly - we check the switch. We connect the multimeter to the terminals, and press the key. A large current flows through the contacts, sparking occurs (especially when dust enters the case). Contacts can corny oxidized. Carefully disassemble the switch body and clean the contact groups with fine sandpaper.

In case of breakage of metal parts, it is better to purchase a new unit.

• If there is an additional contact group in the circuit between the switch and the electric motor (for example, a reverse switch or a speed regulator), we diagnose this node as well.
• Next, we check the connecting wires from the switch to the motor brushes. If they are in order, we diagnose the brush assembly.

The springs should confidently press the brushes against the anchor lamellas; we check the carbon elements themselves for wear. If necessary, we change: spare parts are included in the delivery set, or purchased in specialized stores. The armature contact strips can be oxidized or clogged. They can be gently cleaned with fine sandpaper.

• A more complex breakdown is failure of the armature or stator windings. Using a multimeter, a short circuit is checked between the body of the unit and the contacts of the windings. Then the resistance is measured. The value should be the same on each winding, the variation in readings should be no more than 5%. Defective windings must be rewound.

• This can be done on your own, or in a repair shop (in any case, it will be cheaper than buying a new engine).

Such breakdowns manifest themselves quite clearly. Extraneous noise, grinding, shaft jamming, etc.

• The motor rotates slowly and the windings get very hot. Or, during normal rotation, a characteristic hum (grinding) is heard. Most likely - the rotor bearings are worn out or clogged. Having disassembled the drill body, we carefully take out the rotor. It is removed together with the bearings. By twisting the outer clip, you will immediately determine the malfunction. If the bearings rotate tightly, they must be flushed with a penetrating liquid (WD-40 or regular kerosene)

Important! Make sure that no liquids get into the armature winding! Otherwise, the insulating varnish may dissolve, and an inter-turn circuit will occur.

Then grease is placed between the clips for high-revving units. Lithol or graphite grease for automotive bearings will do.

If there is a backlash between the bearing races, the units must be replaced.

Dismantling is carried out with a special puller or with an open-end wrench.

If there are no balls, be sure to find them in the case. Dropped objects can get caught between engine or gearbox parts and damage the entire unit.

• The bearings of the chuck shaft are diagnosed and repaired in the same way. Only dismantling them without a puller will not work.
• If the mounting place of the outer bearing race (bed) is worn out (this happens when the bearing is jammed), you will need to make liners of thin sheet metal. Otherwise, beating will occur when the shaft rotates.
• The engine rotates in normal mode, noise and grinding noise are heard from the gearbox housing. The shaft turns unevenly. Worn or destroyed gears of the reducer.

We disassemble the case and examine the gears.

It is advisable to wash the assembly of old grease and rotate the shaft 360 °, controlling the engagement of the gears. If a backlash or excessive wear of the teeth is detected, the mechanical part will have to be changed.

Perhaps a large amount of dust has simply accumulated in the gearbox housing. Together with the lubricant, an abrasive paste is formed. In this case, after flushing the assembly, simply add new grease.

Tip: The grease should be changed periodically without waiting for breakage.

Especially if you often drill stone walls.

• The cartridge is broken. For cam devices (turnkey) this is a great rarity, the design is reliable and simple. The unit is exposed to dust, so the internal mechanism can easily jam. Most often, the gripper guides are clogged with small abrasive particles.

If the chuck does not twist well, it is enough to blow it out with compressed air and treat it with a penetrating lubricant.

Attention: The jaw chucks do not lubricate the inside!

It is quite difficult to disassemble a part without a special tool. If some component is mechanically broken inside, you still have to change the entire assembly.

But keyless chucks, on the contrary, are easily disassembled and repaired.

They are not as reliable and do not carry the load well. To disassemble such a cartridge, it is enough to remove a pair of lock washers. You will easily find a broken or worn part that can be easily replaced.

There are two types of fastening: Morse taper, and threaded. In the first case, you need to inflict several blows with a small hammer on the back of the cartridge. After which it can be easily removed.

To unscrew the threaded fastener, the shaft is held with a wrench (there are special flats on the shaft).

There are no faults that cannot be corrected by hand. If a separate unit cannot be restored, only it changes, there is no need to buy a new drill.

To prevent breakdowns, you should adhere to simple rules:

• After dusty work, blow out the ventilation holes and the interior of the cartridge. Keep the instrument clean.
• Do not overheat the engine - take breaks for prolonged use.
• Refill the grease on the rotating parts periodically.

A drill is an indispensable tool in construction and repair, it accounts for a large amount of work. And it may happen that the mechanism fails at the most inopportune moment. It is quite possible to establish the cause of the breakdown and repair the electric drill with your own hands.

The principle of operation and design of various models of electric drills does not differ significantly, so it can be quickly disassembled and started to repair the tool.

The main thing is to observe safety measures, you need to work with an electric tool only after the power is turned off, and then you need to correctly connect and connect everything after repair. The drill consists of an electrical and a mechanical part, there is also a main drive on which a chuck is installed - a drill is attached to it.

The electrical part consists of the following parts:

• electric motor;
• button for starting and stopping the electric motor;
• reverse mechanism for changing the direction of the cutting tool;
• starting capacitor (for suppressing high-frequency interference);
• graphite brushes;
• electric cable.

The mechanical part consists of a gearbox for transmitting rotary motion from an electric motor to a shaft and a main drive. As a result, the chuck rotates with the fixed drill.

Unfortunately, even a reliable IE (electric tool), including such a proven unit as the 1036e from the USSR, is subject to various malfunctions and malfunctions during operation, and the drill is no exception.

One of the most common breakdowns is non-working condition of the electric motor, that is, the motor does not respond to the power button, but the chuck easily scrolls on the shaft. Another sign of the inoperative state of the power unit is that there is no way to adjust the speed or reverse rotation.

Even if the electric motor works, but intermittently, and there are extraneous sounds, you should not wait until it fails, the device need to be disassembled and repaired.