DIY intercooler repair ssangyong

In detail: do-it-yourself intercooler repair ssangyong from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

I decided to open a new branch of disputes and discussions, otherwise they all clump together in the USR valve and chip tuning, they set up a trash heap there =)

The task is to throw out the intercooler and find a pipe to replace it, so as not to throw away the decor of the engine cover, etc.

Can you please tell me from what the pipe will fit? Seemingly from a patriot collective farms, but I did not find them =)

All photos and videos in this post are not mine, taken from neighbors on the Internet, but I feel that I have a problem.

I noticed that outside the intercooler began to sweat, which means it stats, because the hoses are dry.

I have even more oil in the bottom corner.

and some even like this)))

I feel sorry for the turbine, it blows, tries, and this bastard lowers the boost

Let's find a decent tube to replace our intercooler.

Only I don't even know the diameter, because I haven't measured it yet, tell me the diameter of the pipes? =)

p / s flood on the topic that everything will break down and the engine will burn out, as well as about filling the cylinders with air, is welcome)

Post has been editedx-soft: 04 May 2015 - 11:10

khana bobiku

Please sentence something =)

if the ignition is turned on for longer, then 106 began to appear like a native.

changeable pressure sensor one and a half thousand ago)))

and so my father rolled into the village, gathered:

and this is what to put instead of an intercooler? ))

and when you turn off the engine, the modulator begins to suck in air with a fart, why would it? )

Post has been editedx-soft: 04 May 2015 - 12:27

and some even like this)))

I had the same thing, the whole intercooler is full of holes. I stupidly changed it to a new one.

I came across such an alteration, maybe it will be useful. But it looks at least creepy.

Video (click to play).

His USR has not yet been removed, because of this turbo lag.

I came across such an alteration, maybe it will be useful. But it looks at least creepy.

I didn't think we had such long hoses there =)

+ it is not clear how it will fit with the fan casing = (

+ again the diameter of the pipe is not known = (only the length is measured = (

The topic is also interesting.
On the way, I also have a cooler on the way. Maybe someone will tell you his number, or point to a similar topic. Search smoked. Apparently he is not my friend.

Original 2371109060. Here on my page on drayv2 about him.

Post has been edited number9: 06 May 2015 - 08:08

During the repair of the cooler, I simply put my own pipe, which is from the cooler to the USR, on my own hoses, native clamps.

The car passed like this for a month, nothing rubbed, nothing knocked

Original 2371109060. Here on my page on drayv2 about him.

Thanks! + from me.
Prices of course

I will think and decide how to get along.

During the repair of the cooler, I simply put my own pipe, which is from the cooler to the USR, on my own hoses, native clamps.

The car passed like this for a month, nothing rubbed, nothing knocked

How to repair it? It is aluminum.

So I usually repair it on all SY, why a new one, if I weld two aluminum tanks more reliable, and it costs 3-4 thousand

I didn't think we had such long hoses there =)

+ it is not clear how it will fit with the fan casing = (

+ again the diameter of the pipe is not known = (only the length is measured = (

Hi Yuri. There are no questions with the diameter of the pipe, just try on the standard one and that's it. It will stand up with the fan casing, only horizontally, instead of the EGR heat exchanger, and the pipe should be longer and slightly bent.

And how to ride in the heat without entogo bells and whistles? Will there be no harm?

In general, so

I traveled without this bells and whistles for a little over a year.

For society, in my face, the radiator was pulled about 2 years ago when a crack was discovered between the collector and the intake pipe. There was an attempt to glue the crack with the reinforcement, but it was only partially successful - it lasted for half a year, in the spring of 2014 it again began to siphon from under the glue. The radiator was thrown out and the connection was made with what remained, i.e. the aluminum pipe was unrolled with cancer and connected by itself 2 rubber pipes from the turbine supply and the intake to the manifold.

In the summer of 2014 there was a trip in the direction of Yeisk and back, periodically it was +36 overboard, the thrust does not disappear, the engine does not overheat despite the missing diffuser, the consumption “per circle” was 8.5 l / 100 km

The firmware was Der Frankenstain from Roman aka Vahmurka.

A month ago I bought a used intercooler for disassembly and installed it. Just tired of the disgrace under the hood.

And, may Roman forgive me, he uploaded the stock 38 firmware instead of Frankenstein, because the stench was just awful. Now it doesn't smell or I don't notice

Post has been edited by Bogdan: 06 May 2015 - 01:56

Thank you, Bogdan! After reading various forums, I came to the conclusion - leave this device))) For the winter, I will only insulate the cooling radiator, without hanging the radiator grill from above. Once it is in the car pribluda, it means that it is somehow needed))) The opinions are contradictory. Therefore, I will leave him alone.

Post has been editedAlex-dr: 06 May 2015 - 02:07

Well, leave him alone, if he works - it is necessary. Another thing is that the absence of an intrecooler was not noticed by me, well, not like And to make it warmer in winter, I remove the carlson from the viscous coupling. And the car heats up faster and the noise is less. I don't block my face.

Read also: DIY refrigerator repair lg

I also take off karlsonchik))))

And it is still better to close the radiator grill, then less dirt and chemicals gets under the hood from under the car in front.

I have a fine metal mesh under the lattice inside, no stones, no flies, no dirt flies. )))

survived this in the trash

Repair it for 3.4 sp or buy it for 10-13

Although I am in the north and do not dare to clean. I connected directly, I did not feel the difference. In Altai, in the summer, on the lingering mountains, it is still needed.

I traveled without it for a year and a half, I did not notice the difference on Romina's firmware, although there is a difference on the drain when the temperature is above zero and the higher the more. I posted the replacement https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2109. n-egr /? p = 455854

one put for 14 rubles, the other probably for 1.4 rubles, if they are sausage the same, why the hell to overpay?

Post has been editedshao: 15 June 2015 - 09:51

Once it is in the car pribluda, it means that it is somehow needed))) The opinions are contradictory.

There is a lot worth, or rather, it was! EGR valve for example: clogging engine, fan clutch: turns on at subzero temperatures. The list is quite long and without all this, the motor is much more fun and quieter.

let's throw out dviglo

one put for 14 rubles, the other probably for 1.4 rubles, if they are sausage the same, why the hell to overpay?

Not 1.4 rubles, but for me a complete freebie. And a couple of hours to think and adjust.

one put for 14 rubles the other probably for 1.4 rubles, if their sausages are the same, why the hell to overpay?

and you there too.

Not 1.4 rubles, but for me a complete freebie. And a couple of hours to think and fit.

master a ready-made kit by analogy with the USR spacer somebody!

Still, an intercooler is needed

master a ready-made kit by analogy with the USR spacer somebody!

Intercooler, what is it for?

Increasing the power of the internal combustion engine is solved quite simply - it is necessary to provide optimal conditions for fuel combustion in the engine cylinders. However, such a task seems simple only at first glance. To supply additional oxygen to the engine, a special device is used - a turbine, which compresses atmospheric air, and in this form it enters the internal combustion engine. Most often, a diesel engine is equipped with such products.

Due to the fact that atmospheric air is compressed, its density increases, which will ensure the flow of more oxygen into the motor.However, according to the laws of physics, when the gas is compressed, the temperature rises, and the supply of hot air to the diesel is one of the possible options for its rapid destruction. Therefore, a device such as an intercooler is used to reduce the temperature of the compressed air.

And I didn’t understand, really, after the compression and ignition of the fuel, the IR helps not to overheat the engine?

Post has been edited by Bionder: 16 June 2015 - 10:43

It's easier for yourself how to decide:

In the heat, pour ice water over the cooler (hose, karcher) and start, it will go as if several horses were added.

Intercooler, what is it for?

Due to the fact that atmospheric air is compressed, its density increases, which will ensure the flow of more oxygen into the motor. However, according to the laws of physics, when the gas is compressed, the temperature rises, and the supply of hot air to the diesel is one of the possible options for its rapid destruction. Therefore, a device such as an intercooler is used to reduce the temperature of the compressed air.

And I didn’t understand, really, after the compression and ignition of the fuel, the IR helps not to overheat the engine?

Watch the video. Somewhere in the beginning it says that the air heats up to 200 degrees, so in order to cool it at least a little, an intercooler is needed.

“In an internal combustion engine, it is prudent to cool the air that is supplied to the cylinders additionally, increasing its density, which in turn increases the boosting efficiency, improves the combustion process in the cylinder, and also lowers the knock threshold.”

The diesel engine requires a certain temperature in order for the combustion reaction to take place. When the engine is cold, compression of the air-fuel mixture alone does not make it possible to reach the ignition temperature, and therefore it is necessary to preheat the air-fuel mixture by means of pre-heating inserts.

The ignition temperature is the temperature at which the combustion reaction becomes spontaneous. (S)

Today I will try to take measurements from my intercooler, I just want to replace it with a steel U-shaped pipe. While I connected it on the engine, I dress it up but I don't like it, it looks very collective farm. But without IR it rides better.

Post has been edited by Kukas: 16 June 2015 - 02:10

It's easier for yourself how to decide:
In the heat, pour ice water over the cooler (hose, karcher) and start, it will go as if several horses were added.

Will we have time to notice it in half a second?

So I don't force anyone, the effect is longer than half a second.

The temperature in the cylinder depends on how much we compress the air. The more air, the higher the temperature. The colder the air supplied, the more it will enter the cylinder, the more it will be compressed, the higher the temperature will be.
Heating affects the ignition of the fuel only when scrolling with the starter and in frost and in general when starting the turbine does not work and the air taken from the atmosphere will not cool in any way in the cooler.When the engine is running, the temperature is always enough and there is no need to heat anything.

So I don't force anyone, the effect is longer than half a second.

If your iron pet with a turbocharged “heart” began to noticeably lose in power and performance, and there are no obvious symptoms of any breakdowns, most likely, an elementary cleaning of the intercooler will be required to correct the situation. The event will not only return the steel horse to its previous power, but also add ease of movement, revive the car.

Strange as it may seem, but not all owners of modern cars with a turbocharged engine are sufficiently knowledgeable and understand the devices and details that are under the hood of their car. There is no need to talk about the presence of an intercooler there. That is why in the article, first it is worthwhile to disassemble what kind of device it is and what it is eaten with.

An intercooler, or as it is literally translated from English - an intercooler, is a radiator or heat exchanger, the main purpose of which is to cool the superheated air coming from a turbocharger. The temperature of this very air, as a rule, reaches 200 ˚С. This overheating is facilitated by the temperature of the compressor itself and the thermodynamic effect of air compression. From the school physics course, many remembered that heating the air promises a decrease in its density, and in the case of turbocharging, because of this, its pressure will also significantly decrease.

According to experts, the intercooler is able to reduce the air temperature to 50 ˚С, which will provide a much better filling of the engine cylinders, and, accordingly, increase its power, increase efficiency and reduce the level of harmful emissions. It is not at all strange that the use of an intercooler, when all systems are in good working order, guarantees an increase in engine power by 20%.

Interestingly, by cooling the air, the intercooler creates an obstacle for it, and this also affects the boost pressure. But despite this, the device provides much more advantages, which is why its use can be called a compromise to achieve the desired effect.

There are only two types of coolers according to the principle of their operation - air and water intercoolers. The air cooler has a simpler design and principle of operation, therefore it has become much more widespread. The air version is a cooler - a radiator, which consists of pipes that change direction along the length of the device and metal plates located between them. Installed between the turbocharger and the manifold.By changing the direction of the tubes, the area of the heat exchanger increases, and, accordingly, the cooling process improves. However, every bend in the heat exchanger tube creates an air obstruction, which negatively affects the boost pressure. Metal plates, as in the radiator, are used to increase the area of the heat exchanger. Due to its high thermal conductivity, aluminum is most often used as a material for the manufacture of an intercooler. Image - Do-it-yourself intercooler repair ssangyong

As for the intercooler with a water cooling principle, it has a number of design features that distinguish it from its air counterpart. First of all, it is compactness. Due to its size, the device can be installed in any free space under the hood. Again, returning to the school physics course, we recall that water, namely, it is a cooling liquid, is an excellent heat conductor, and therefore it will remove heat much better, thereby increasing the engine power much more efficiently.

But not everything is so smooth, many will be surprised by the complex design of the intercooler, which, in fact, is a two-circuit cooling system, including, in addition to the device itself, a water pump, an air radiator, a pipe system and a control unit.It is because of this complex design that the water chiller is used in exceptional cases where the air system is not suitable for installation.

It is clear that the intercooler, like any automotive unit, lends itself to contamination, especially in domestic operating conditions. In our area, this is facilitated by many factors, from off-road driving to the winter intensification of measures for sprinkling the roads with sand-slag mixtures and salt, which are simply destructive for the aluminum of which the intercooler is made. The trouble is that most often, the cooler is installed in front of the main radiator, and therefore all the dirt and other elements flying out from under the wheels of the vehicle in front are taken over by the intercooler. Image - Do-it-yourself intercooler repair ssangyong

If the cooler is clogged with dirt - this is one thing, but when salts get there, the car owner will not have time to notice how the plates of the device become overgrown with the results of the reaction of salt and aluminum. As it gets dirty, the cooler will also accumulate oil in itself, which will “bond” the dirt, salts, slag and sand together into an “impenetrable mass”, which will simply reduce all efforts of the heat exchanger to naught.

How does this happen. The heat transfer coefficient of the cooler directly depends on many factors, including even the roughness of the walls of the aluminum plates and their cleanliness. The same the mass of dirt, sand and salt held together by the oil creates an obstruction in the path of air, acting as an insulating coating and thereby reducing the results of heat transfer. As mentioned above, poor heat transfer means less productivity. That is why cleaning the intercooler from dirt and other deposits in any case will have a positive effect on the power indicator.

There are as many ways to clean / flush the intercooler as your imagination can offer in this matter. But there are features that should be taken into account when holding this event. So, many car owners do not risk flushing the intercooler using a Kärcher station, a strong pressure can damage or bend the aluminum fins of the cooler. Many are quite scrupulous about the choice of cleaning agent, however, as practice shows, the result does not always depend on this.

There are two options for how you can clean the intercooler - inside and outside. Internal flushing of the cooler assumes its removal, external flushing - respectively, without removal. And in either case, in order to flush the heat conductor, motorists use a variety of cleaners for the engine, for the radiator, various detergents, kerosene, gasoline - in general, everything that has ever helped to get rid of impressive pollution in practice. Image - Do-it-yourself intercooler repair ssangyong

The constructive difference between these methods lies in the fact that when removing the cooler, it is possible to flush it more thoroughly, since the rear of the radiator, in contrast to the front, is always much more contaminated. Therefore, before deciding to flush, it is important, at least intuitively, based on the mileage and operating conditions, to determine the degree of contamination.

Another important point is the presence of oil in the heat sink, which was already mentioned earlier. After making sure of its presence, it is important to understand that radically different means may be needed to remove it. Practice shows that in the presence of oil, flushing is carried out in 2 stages - flushing the intercooler from dirt and other deposits, and then only from the oil. Usually kerosene or gasoline is great for fighting oil.

Conventionally, this event can be divided into several logical stages.The first thing to do is get to the cooler itself. Depending on the car model and the place under the hood where it is installed, it may be necessary to disassemble the bumper with the front panel, or it may be enough to simply remove the protection from the arch.You need to understand that by choosing the path of external cleaning, you will avoid the troublesome work of removing the device, however, flushing the heat conductor will turn out to be an order of magnitude worse.To rinse the outside of the appliance, a light pressure hose, a soft brush and an anti-dirt agent are sufficient. Let us remind once again that the water pressure under high pressure can extremely unfavorably affect the radiator fins. Image - Do-it-yourself intercooler repair ssangyong

As for the internal cleaning, the removal process does not cause strong problems, the device is usually attached with two bolts. After removing the coveted intercooler from under the hood, it is important to correctly assess the scale of the work required. In case of the most severe pollution (it is especially noticeable from the back side), experts advise cleaning in 3 stages:

Mechanical cleaning. Removal of insects, stones, growths, straightening deformed plates with the help of available tools.
Cleaning from dirt and other deposits using chemicals. For example, Profoam 2000.
Internal cleaning. To clean the inside of the device from oil, use means for cleaning the carburetor, engine, radiator, or ordinary kerosene or gasoline, white spirit or acetone.

After the intercooler has been cleared of dirt and oil, at least 80% of light should pass through the radiator fins. After completing all the procedures, before installing the cooler back under the hood, it should be dried. To do this, you can use the compressor.

According to the mechanics, in order to remove the device, rinse it and put it back, 2-3 hours should be enough.

As a result, returning the device to its place, you will undoubtedly feel positive changes in the dynamics of acceleration of the car, its agility, lightness and power.

Not a nail, not a rod, friends.

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It turns out not all ...
I noticed that everything is in oil to the right of the radiators.
An autopsy showed that the pipe clamps were not tightened, plus, the two lower bolts of the intercooler were not in place, and as a result, the right pipe began to break off from the intercooler! The previous owner didn’t bother ...I decided to try to glue it with superglue with special powder (because an unforeseen consumption of 8 tr for a new intercooler was not included in my plans).Along the way, I modernized (shortened) the plastic pipe by inserting aluminum. pipe into the hose from the turbine cut in half.This way less vibration loads on the glued parts. Plus - the intercooler is much easier to remove.

How to repair an intercooler with your own hands?

What are the malfunctions associated with the operation of the intercooler

Intercooler gap

Nozzle problems

How to solder the intercooler

Required tools

Repair process

Repair of branch pipes

Set of tools

Repair process

How to extend the life of an intercooler

Do-it-yourself intercooler cleaning

What you need to clean

How to clean an intercooler

As known, the intercooler is used to cool the turbine of the power unit, which means that the failure of this element and the untimely elimination of the troubles that have appeared will necessarily lead to a drop in the power of the turbine itself and to the subsequent breakdown of the power unit.