DIY ipad cable repair

I would like to post a short photo report on the repair of cables for the IPhone of the Lightning type. A similar report was tried to be posted on my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2255, but was surprisingly met with an absolutely inadequate reaction of some members of the forum (who flooded the thread with legal moronic nonsense) and moderators, who also took part in the contamination of the topic after that carried it from the “flood” to the “basket”. Those. in their opinion, it was not worthy of the high rank and trust shown by placing it in the "technoflame".
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2255/forum/viewtopic.php?t=585428
To me this act, to put it mildly, was incomprehensible, tk. I repaired cords torn to shreds for a man in the amount of 3400 rubles, offering a neat and reliable repair option.

So. If anyone has used this type of cable, then he knows that the bend limiter (compensator) of the cable bend is extremely unsuccessful in it. This pornographic piece of cambric is completely inadequate to protect against kinks.

During operation, the cable at the break point is quickly damaged and torn. This usually happens faster from the phone connector side rather than USB.

A friend of mine asked to “just solder” 3 of his cables:
- 2 pcs. - original;
- 1 PC. - non-original twisted with a cigarette lighter socket.

Actually soldering the wires - you don't need a lot of mind. But the problem is that this must be done carefully and at the same time the resulting connection must be protected from bends and generally unloaded from loads. How to do it carefully?

The houses have long been littered with casings from a pistol (9 mm.) And AK (5.45 mm). I came up with the idea to use them as a body for epoxy filling.

Video (click to play).

So that there are no stupid questions about “they will put you up,” “they will tie you up at the airport,” etc. crap, here is an excerpt from the 150-FZ "On weapons":

"Blank cartridges - cartridges for firearms with a hole in the case, extracted by a propellant charge and used a means of initiation."

“The acquisition of weapons and ammunition for them on the territory of the Russian Federation is not subject to licensing if:
.
- the acquisition of decommissioned weapons and empty cartridges. "

I think that on this the question of legality is removed:
- the sleeve does not have a bullet,
- the sleeve has no charge,
- the sleeve does not have a capsule,
- the sleeve is drilled.

Another explanation - why exactly a sleeve, and not some kind of tube or a piece of fountain pen? The answer is simple: it is convenient to fix the cable and fill it with epoxy.

Taking into account the wide distribution of traumatic weapons, hunting carbines, as well as the availability of shooting ranges with combat pistols, there is no problem to find a spent cartridge case. Personally, I quite legally shot from 9 mm. Glock at a private shooting range. Shot casings 9 mm. there was even a booty eat. Cartridges of 5.45 caliber are widely used in everyday life for Saiga automatic carbines. Hunters have no particular problems to collect spent cartridges.

Below I give 2 examples: with a short sleeve from 9 mm. cartridge and cartridge AK 5.45 mm. In both cases, the filling was carried out with epoxy glue. I used good quality glue from a double syringe. Thickening time: approx. 15 min., Hardening time approx. 1 hour. When mixing the components of the glue, do not forget that the polymerization reaction proceeds with the release of heat. If the container with the prepared glue is not properly cooled, then as a result of the avalanche heating, the glue can harden in 1-2 minutes and after that it will only have to be thrown away.

A little explanation about the original connector design.It would be desirable, of course, not to disassemble the inner steel part of the case, which takes on a significant mechanical stress on fracture. But if it so happened that the wires are torn off under the base of the clamp, then you will have to remove part of the case and solder to the board. Just in case, here is a photo with the colors of the wires. Remains of wires must be removed and soldered from the pads on the board.

The method with partial disassembly of the steel body of the connector allows you to end up with a relatively short structure that fits into a pistol cartridge.

My second cord had enough remnants of wires in front of the clamp for soldering and insulation, but the resulting design was relatively long for a pistol cartridge, so I used a sleeve from an AK cartridge. The muzzle must be cut off.

To unload the cable from kinks and pulling out, I performed:
- protection by means of heat shrinkage (3 and 4 mm.) In several layers;
- inside the sleeve, the cable is crimped with a steel soft wire from a paper clip.

I understand that the topic has a non-commercial bias. But for the soul or as a gift to a relative friend, it turns out very well, given that the original cable costs about 1700 rubles.

P.S. The third cable - non-original twisted - has not yet been made. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that the non-original plug inside is much wider than that of the original one. It is necessary to carefully measure whether it will fit into a 5.45 caliber automatic cartridge case. I'll unsubscribe a little later.

Added a photo of the Griffin connector in the AK 5.45 sleeve.
The connector fit in generally vnatyag. I had to press the slegonets with my finger into the sleeve. A 5.45 sleeve is generally ideal for him.

By the way, the Griffin autoloader is distinguished by how tough the cable is. Just some kind of plastic tree.

P.S. So I finished repairing the Griffin cable.

P.P.S They reproached me for saying that the vice looks unglamorous. So I don't care how they look. A vise and a clothespin completed their task 100%:
1) Helped to firmly fix (with a turn of 90 degrees relative to the photo) the sleeve for sawing off the neck. Sawed, by the way, with an ordinary hacksaw for metal.

2) Helped to securely fix the sleeve during the filling process (taking into account the fact that the cord always strove to move out and fall off).

By epoxy. I had a fairly thick, low-flow epoxy in stock. Taking into account the possible shrinkage, I applied it with a small slide. After hardening, I cut off (cut off) all the epoxy residues with an ordinary clerical knife, since both the sleeve and the connector are made of steel.

The iPhone charging cable is his Achilles heel. At the same time, it is striking that a lot has already been said and written about the problem, and Apple does not seem to be going to change anything. However, why - if in the "pink" universe of the "apple" giant any user can buy a new i-smartphone every year and, what a coincidence, this is the warranty period for the charging cable.

However, we all understand what Russian realities are - not every user can afford to buy a new iPhone every year. Frankly, not even all users of i-smartphones can easily shell out 1,500 rubles from their pockets for a new original cable, and therefore the request - how to fix the charging wire from an iPhone on their own - is very popular. Well, in this article, we will tell you everything about iPhone wire repair.

Why is the i-smartphone cable so flimsy? And it's all about some truly manic Apple's desire for beauty, at the moment when it is objectively worth thinking about reliability. One involuntarily comes to mind an excellent Russian proverb about a fool who was forced to pray to God. Here is about the same situation. The upper insulating layer of the iPhone charging cable is made of a beautiful material that is very pleasant to the touch - a kind of soft touch in rubber. In general, it gives aesthetic pleasure, but the trouble is, he is very flimsy!

What's the bottom line? After about a year, very unpleasant "lacerations" appear in the places of the cleanest bends, and if they are not healed in time, the problem will worsen, first the inner insulating layers will become unusable, and then the wiring itself, after which, of course, the cable will no longer be able to function ...

And now, when the iPhone no longer gives a signal to start the charging process, the user has a question - how to fix the charging. Although, frankly, it's a little late. After all, if you take some preventive measures, you can prolong the life of the cable for a long time and you won't have to resort to complicated repairs. So if your cable is still intact, read this section carefully.

For those who are very far from technology and repair, we want to offer a very simple way to protect the charging cable. All you need are two fountain pen springs, which you need to put on on both sides of the cable. We bend one end of the spring and wind it up, and when we wind it completely, we bend both ends of the spring a little, as if inward, to keep it more secure, only as carefully as possible, otherwise you will end up damaging the cable that you want to protect.

Well, what happened? According to it, it does not look aesthetically pleasing, but how simple and potentially it saves you 1,500 rubles. By the way, if you are now thinking - why do I need an original cable for 1,500 rubles, I will buy a Chinese cable for 150, we hasten to warn you. Firstly, 99% of non-original cables do not work with iTunes, charge is charged, but you cannot connect to a PC - again, some clever Apple schemes are to blame. Secondly, a cheap cable is still much less reliable than the original one, and if the latter is guaranteed to last a year, then a non-“native” cable can order to live a long time in a couple of months.

Don't like the spring method at all? Okay, we offer more reliable and more poetic. Only here, probably, the majority will have to get acquainted with a new concept - "heat shrinkage"? What it is? A tube made of a special material with an excellent property of shrinking in diameter when heated. So she will help us with the repair. What else do you need? Any fire source - a lighter will work best.

So, first of all, we take the cable and go to the store for heat shrinkage (it can be found in any electronics department) of the required diameter. And which one is needed, you ask? Above, we indicated that when heated, it will decrease, however, no more than half, so we need to find such a heat shrink that, when squeezed, will grip the cable "in a vice", but at the same time put on the Lightning connector. In general, 6-7 millimeters.

Do you need shrinkage diameter found? Excellent, little remains to be done! We will protect the cable from both sides, so from the Lightning side (it is smaller than USB) we pull two lengths of heat shrinkage of 5 centimeters. Now we take the lighter and tightly hold the heat shrinkage on the cable, heat it up. Do not forget about our task - it must sit tightly. By the way, if you want maximum reliability, on the Lightning side, make an overlap heat shrink so that it covers part of the connector; on the USB side, this will not work - it is too big.

Unfortunately, this method of wire protection is only available for iPhone 5 and newer i-smartphones. The fact is that the Lightning connector appeared in the iPhone 5, while earlier Apple gadgets were equipped with a cable with a different connector, much wider than Lightning. So you simply will not be able to pick up such a heat shrink so that it crawls through the connector, and when sitting down, it tightly sat on the cable

It should be noted that many preventive measures with heat shrinkage are also used when the cable already needs real repair. That is, in fact, it is not a matter of sculpting heat shrinkage on top of an already torn cable, this is not a very reliable measure, but this type of repair also has a right to exist. However, we are sure - if the insulation has already been broken - more serious repairs are needed and heat shrinkage alone will not be enough. In this situation, you will need:

• soldering iron and related materials (rosin, solder)
• wire cutters
• sharp knife
• unnecessary old USB cable (no matter which connector is on the other side)
• insulating tape
• heat shrinkage (well, yes, where without it) of two diameters - minimum and 5-6 millimeters
• fire source

As you can imagine, the work will be serious.However, if you own a soldering iron, everything will be quite simple for you, and if you only plan to make friends with this wonderful tool, you will have to sweat a little. So let's get started.

You can buy a USB cable, but we recommend digging into old electronics at home. This cable is the most popular, and therefore it is highly likely that the search will end with success. We emphasize that it does not matter at all what will happen on the other side, because as soon as the required wire is found, we must take the wire cutters and cut what is there. That is, we should have a cable with a USB connector on one side, and a cut wire on the other. Next, we'll tackle the cropped side:

1. Take a sharp knife and carefully remove the insulation from about a centimeter of the cable - four wires hidden under it should appear in front of you. In professional circles, this process is called "stripping" and it is carried out with the help of special tools, but you can do it with a knife. You need to pinch the cable with your thumb and forefinger and, rotating it, make light cuts along the entire diameter, and then pull off the cut piece of insulation.
2. Now these four wires also need to be stripped about half a centimeter, and under each of them you should see a metal "bare" wire.
3. The USB cable is almost ready, all that remains is to turn on the soldering iron and irradiate each metal wire. "Olud" is another professional slang term. In fact, you need to do this, immerse the heated soldering iron in rosin, then in the solder and go through the entire diameter of the wiring - so it is tinned.

Good news! It doesn't matter if you have an iPhone 5 or an older model - this repair is universal for any cable - both for Lightning and for its predecessor.

1. Let's take a cable and cut off the Ligthning connector (or another), leaving it somewhere between 1-2 centimeters of wire and strip it - now you already own this process. A metallized protective screen will appear in front of you, you need to carefully get rid of it with the help of nippers.
2. Now you will see similar four wires that were found when the USB was "opened", they will be the same even in color.
3. Guess what's next? Right! Let us conceive and service them - look, you have already mastered professional slang.

Well, what's left is small, connect the two prepared elements, for this you need to solder the wires of the corresponding colors to each other - green with green, black with black, etc. But! Before soldering, you must first put on the cable a heat shrink with a diameter of 5-6 mm and for each wiring a heat shrink of the minimum diameter.

And one more tip - before soldering, we recommend twisting the wiring together - it's safer and more convenient, and don't forget about rosin and solder.

When all the wires are soldered, we push heat shrinkage onto each contact and heat it up.

Then, for fidelity, we fasten the wiring with electrical tape and stretch the heat shrinkage of a larger diameter onto this structure, heat it.

We tried to describe the process in as much detail as possible, without leaving dark spots, but if something remains incomprehensible - watch this video -

Unfortunately, the above instructions will not work if the cable breaks too close to the connector and the integrity of the metal wires has already been violated - in this case, it will not be possible to solder to the wiring, you will have to solder to the microcircuit itself hidden inside the connector - this means that you will need to completely open it. Not everyone dares to do this. But if there are daredevils, we recommend watching this video - it will help you in this difficult task.