DIY mouse cable repair

In detail: do-it-yourself mouse cable repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Computer mouse - probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device for controlling the cursor and giving various commands to the computer. Over time, this device has various malfunctions: damage to the stranded wire, the sensor often jams, the mouse wheel (scroll) is scrolled, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.

Let's look at the DIY repair of the most popular computer manipulator - a mouse!

The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired by hand. If you know how to handle a soldering iron at least a little, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical damage to the mouse with a minimal set of tools:

Now there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (3 or more), and the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

We usually disassemble the mouse using a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, are hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

Usually the screws only hold the back of the mouse. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed by means of special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to lift it slightly by the freed back part and slowly pull it towards you. You can still press a little more on it from the front, but the main thing is not very hard, otherwise you will break! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins that held them in place:

Video (click to play).

When you remove the top cover, you will find a small PCB underneath, which is usually only fixed on small plastic pins (although it could be screwed to the case). Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scroll mechanism, as well as a complex of a backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor will be soldered to this board:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to pull the printed circuit board out of it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots).

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or the cursor movement twitches or disappears, if one of the wires is frayed or cut off somewhere (if, of course, the mouse is wired).

A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 wires of different colors. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Color scheme for wiring mouse wires

Nutrition - red (other options: golden, orange, blue, white).

Receiving data - white (other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).

Data transfer - green (other options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).

Land - black (other options: golden green, green, white, blue).

You can unambiguously judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board). Breakage and chafing of wires most often happens in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse case. You can indirectly check the presence of a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in questionable places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer a twist I will give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wires, insulate them from each other with electrical tape or tape. You can try. In order not to burn the port, you need to connect or disconnect the mouse when the computer is turned off! To eliminate all doubts with a break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug with a multimeter. After the repair, the mouse should work.

Often there is also a situation when we cannot accurately hover the cursor at a certain point. It constantly shivers and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light from the diode reflects off the table.

To get rid of such a blockage, you don't even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck-on debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside, or is completely out of order.

In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Optical sensor of a computer mouse

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it out to blow out fine dust that may adhere after it gets wet. After that, gently, without pressing, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the hole of the sensor. After making a couple of turns and not stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

If, after all attempts to clean, the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight hands, you can remove the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.

It so happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts to jump up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the axle of the wheel have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can deform, as a result of which the axle will slip in the problem area.

If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is normal with the movement of the wheel, then a breakdown has occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could loosen and it should be slightly compacted:

Pressing the mouse scroll mechanism latches

To do this, take small pliers and, one by one, press them down on the four metal brackets that attach the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time squeeze harder. Try plugging in your mouse and see if the negative effect of scrolling has diminished after each press. Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks.Yes, the frequency and variation in page jumps has decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and truly in Russian. Cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:

A seal inserted inside the mouse scroll mechanism

Most interestingly, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the extra length of the strip and assemble the mouse

There are several more options:

disassemble and clean the mechanism;
replace the mechanism with a different mouse (with a different malfunction).

Any button has its own resource of clicks. Usually the contact at the left mouse button disappears. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all usually the same. The broken button is practically not repaired in any way, but it can be replaced from another mouse.

Bottom view of soldered mouse button microswitch

The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn't work every time it is pressed. This symptom may indicate that frequent use has worn off the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch or poor contact inside the contact pad switch.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be in it. It is enough to fill the washed area with a drop of epoxy resin or molten plastic. At the same time, while the switch is disassembled, you can clean the contact group.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it - the so-called bounce of contacts. You can solve this matter by re-soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically!

In any case, before taking on the soldering iron, check the correctness of the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:

Standard mouse properties as they should be

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered and the sticky mouse button option disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical software way to "cure" a double click is to remove the mouse driver.

Mouse - one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse! You don't need to be able to solder or understand electronics to do this.

The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair. I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown.

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Posted on 08/30/2015 // 0 Comments Image - DIY mouse cable repair

One of the most common computer mouse breakdowns is broken USB cable, from which it can glitch, periodically shut down or not even be recognized by the computer. A characteristic feature may be the restored working capacity after bending the cable with your hands or the working capacity of the mouse only in a certain position. Do-it-yourself mouse repair with a similar malfunction can be done even by a beginner who only held a soldering iron a couple of times in his life. Consider a similar mouse repair A4tech x7 step by step.

First, you need to determine the location of the broken cord, often such a section is located just a couple of centimeters from the exit from the mouse. Sometimes characteristic cracks appear in the insulation, or it has completely peeled off and exposed the wire.

Complete disassembly of the manipulator is indispensable. It is necessary to carefully unscrew all the screws (some may be under the stickers) and, for convenience, disconnect the cable connector from the board.

The first step is not to be afraid and boldly cut off the damaged area with a margin of several centimeters.

Next, you need to carefully strip the insulation at the ends of the wires, and try not to damage the copper veins.

When the stripping process is over, you can start soldering. The wires are connected according to their color and are well soldered. For control, the next step is to check the functionality. If the mouse works, follow on.

The last step is to insulate the solder joint. The easiest and most convenient way is shrink cambric. It will not allow the wires to close and will firmly fix the connection.

For a more accurate and reliable connection, you can use an additional thermocambric, which will hide all the soldering points. In the photo, an additional red cambric was specially used.

The mouse is assembled after the wire has been laid, the screws and all the latches of the case are fixed.

Broken wire is the most common defect in computer mice, but not the only one. There are also such characteristic breakdowns as: sticking button (microswitch) or malfunction of the scroll wheel. Do-it-yourself mouse repair with such troubles, we will consider later.

Mouse repair - the process of restoring the operability of the most popular computer manipulator.The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired at home.

If you know how to handle a soldering iron, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical damage to the mouse with a minimal set of tools, such as a screwdriver, pliers, scissors, etc.

In the article below, we will look at the most common optical mouse breakdowns and how to repair them at home.

If your computer mouse is broken, do not rush to buy a new one. It is quite possible that you yourself will be able to fix the breakdown and the device will serve you for more than one year.

You can connect many different devices to a computer, however, there are two, without which it will be impossible to work with it. The first is the keyboard, without which the PC, most often, will not even boot. The second is the mouse. Without it, the computer, in principle, can be controlled, but doing it from the keyboard is very inconvenient.

Throughout the history of the development of computer technology, a huge number of different manipulators have been invented and used: trackpads, joysticks, touchpads, etc. However, nothing simpler and more convenient to the well-known mouse has not yet been invented!

The mouse is good for everyone, however, over time, like any technique, it can break down. Fortunately, standard mice are fairly simple in design and can be repaired at home, even by people far from electronics! If your mouse has recently begun to junk, I hope our article will help you fix it.

Nowadays, there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (from 3 and above), as well as the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time have a sufficiently high accuracy, which will be enough for most users. By the way, the photo above is just a manipulator of this type. He had a broken scroll wheel, which prompted me to write this article 🙂

However, let's not get ahead of ourselves, but consider what kind of breakdowns occur in optical mice most often:

As you can see, there are not so many typical breakdowns of a computer mouse. If you correctly identify the symptoms of problems, then they can be quickly localized and eliminated. Therefore, we will not rant for a long time, but get down to business.

To perform any kind of mouse repair, first of all, you need to disassemble it. This is usually done with a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, are hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

When you remove the top cover, under it you will find a small printed circuit board, which, usually, is fixed only on small plastic pins (although it can be screwed to the case. Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scroll mechanism, as well as a complex of LED and a sensitive photosensor:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to pull the printed circuit board out of it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots). We are ready for initial inspection and repair!

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse does not work at all, if it is frayed somewhere or one of the wires is cut off (if, of course, the mouse is wired). A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 wires of different colors. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Food - red (options: golden, orange, blue, white).
Data reception - white (options: blue, orange, yellow, green).
Data transfer - green (options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).
Earth - black (options: golden green, green, white, blue).

Breakage and chafing of wires most often happens in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse case. You can indirectly check the presence of a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in questionable places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer twisting 🙂 You can read how to splice stranded wires correctly here, and here I will just give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wire, try connecting the mouse to your computer - it should work. If it doesn't work, then there can be two options: either the cable is interrupted in one more place, or it's time to throw out the mouse 🙂

To exclude the option with another break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug using a multitester or other device (you can find out about the methods of dialing, again, from the article about crimping a twisted pair).

The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light from the diode reflects off the table. To get rid of such a blockage, you don't even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck-on debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside, or is completely out of order. In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove.The groove itself and the axle of the wheel have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can deform, as a result of which the axle will slip in the problem area.

Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and variation in page jumps has decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and truly in Russian 🙂 I cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the old battery packaging and stuck it inside the mechanism:

Most interestingly, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the extra length of the strip and assemble the mouse 🙂

The last, and most annoying, breakdown is a non-working button. Whether the left one, the right one, or the one under the wheel is not important - they are all usually the same. The important thing is that the non-working button is practically not repaired in any way. You can only replace its microswitch by unsoldering a non-working one with a soldering iron and replacing it with a new one or borrowed from another mouse.

The microswitch has three “legs”, the first of which is a regular latch, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. The latch does not need to be soldered. It only serves as “foolproof” so that you don't insert the microswitch in the wrong direction by mistake.

Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn't work every time it is pressed. Such a symptom may indicate that frequent use has worn off the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it. This case can be solved by soldering the microswitch or. programmatically! In any case, before taking on the soldering iron, check the correctness of the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered and the sticky mouse button option disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical software way to “cure” double-clicking is to remove the mouse driver. How to remove the driver correctly is written here.

Mice are one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse!

You don't need to be able to solder or understand electronics to do this. The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair.

I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown. Successful repairs to you!

The mouse manipulator plays a significant role in the life of a modern person, and its failure at the wrong time can be a hassle if there is no store or a spare tailed beast nearby. In this article, we will look at the main breakdowns of computer mice and how to fix them yourself.All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball ones, we just note that among the optical ones, laser mice are singled out as more accurate. Also, optical manipulators are of the visible spectrum (emit red light) and infrared spectrum, the efficiency of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.

To repair a computer mouse, we need:

screwdriver
nippers (side cutters)
multimeter
soldering iron and solder
heat shrink tubing or other consumables, depending on the type of detected breakdown

The mouse is one of the devices, the reliability of which has been brought to a high level (we are talking about devices produced by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. Typical breakdowns of mice include the following:

break (break) of the wire
button failure
broken scroll wheel.

In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is associated with the bending of the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire is constantly bending when you move the mouse over the working surface. The signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operability only with a certain "kink" of the wire. For compact "laptop" manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the usb connector are also characteristic. Repairing a broken wire is simple: making sure that you have localized the breakage, bite off the wire a couple of centimeters higher and lower from the damaged area with wire cutters. Next, we solder both tails, observing the color scheme, wires. Do not forget to insulate them with a heat-shrinkable tube or electrical tape (in extreme cases, wrapping each wire in several layers of adhesive tape).

Finally, you have to fix the wire at the base of the mouse for this, you can carefully cut the original rubber "cable gland", remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in a little glue, it also does not hurt to glue the cable to the board or the case. For the purpose of further maintainability, I use hot melt glue. How it looks after renovation, see the photo.

Incorrect practice of clicks on the mouse buttons can have several different reasons, you can find out the reason practically "by ear and by touch." The most common causes of button problems are:

In the case of problems with the scroll wheel, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:

Problems caused by knob operation. Outwardly, they manifest themselves in uneven scrolling, which is accompanied by jerks of the page up and down. This problem is solved by carefully opening the knob and removing dust from the contacts. Another option is to loosen the attachment of the rotary encoder basket to its base. You can watch how to tighten the mount in this video clip
Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axle. If you overdid it and broke the axle, do not despair, there are several options for eliminating this breakdown: you can find a self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, grind its head, creating a kind of hexagon (trying it on to the knob so that there are no cranks) and, while heating on fire, screw it in instead of the missing part of the axle. The second option is to find a hex key that fits exactly into the knob hole, cut it off along the length of the axis, carefully drill a hole in the scroll wheel and insert your new axis.

I have not yet repaired many of them, but a couple of directions for finding breakdowns can be voiced:

They often ask the question: "The wire came off from the keyboard, where to solder what?" or: “The dog chewed the mouse connector. How to solder a new one? "

If the wire is torn off the device board, then see the letter markings on the board.

For USB devices, the pins are marked as follows: V, D-, D +, G. There may also be SG - braid.

True, there may not be any letter designations on the board. I will tell you below how to deal with this problem.

So what color is where to solder?

But the letter marking can be non-standard:

This marking is typical for PS / 2 devices, but oddly enough, it is also found on USB device boards.

If you have not met the classic colors (Red, White, Green, Black) in the USB cable, these tables can help you:

If your device is not in the tables, take a multimeter in ohmmeter mode and ring the cord yourself: which contact is ringing with which wiring. Pin assignment in the picture below:

But what if the contacts on the board are not signed?
We carefully study the tracks and markings of the elements.

1. From terminal "G" usually goes the longest, thickest track. But the "V" road can compete with it. It is necessary to check the electrolytic capacitors - they are soldered to the "G" track with a minus. The minus on the capacitor body is marked with a longitudinal stripe.

2. From the contact "V" there is a more modest track. Electrolytes and LEDs are soldered to it with a plus.

3. Two identical tracks going straight to the controller microcircuit are "D-" and "D +". It is not easy to distinguish between them. We solder at random. If the device does not work, just swap the wires on the D- and D + pins. Nothing bad will happen.

If the dog or younger sister gnawed off the plug from the mouse or keyboard, buy a new connector and solder it onto the cord according to the classic scheme.

If the colors in the stub of the cord turned out to be left, then either look for the pinout in the table of non-standard colors (see above) or look at the board, which color is soldered to which contact. Above, I have already described how to calculate the appointment of a contact by the board.

If relevant, I can file a similar material on mice and PS / 2 keyboards.

Today it is difficult to imagine life without computer technology. With the advent of the user graphical interface on personal computers, the computer mouse has become an integral part of it. A modern optical mouse can last many years without being repaired, but nothing lasts forever and sooner or later it stops working as it should. It is rarely taken to the workshop, as for the price it will most likely cost more than a new one. Therefore, they usually repair the mouse themselves or buy a new one.

The USB mouse I will be repairing lasts 5 years. The first repair was 3 years after the purchase (cleared the buttons). Recently, the left button began to click badly again, and this time scrolling of pages stopped working correctly.

To disassemble the mouse, you need to find and unscrew the fastening screws from the bottom side. On this model, the cover is fixed with one screw (there are models on which it is fixed by two or more).

After unscrewing the screw, you need to slightly lift the cover (behind, where the screw is), move it forward so as not to break off the latches on the cover.

As you can see, in the photo the board with the details is simply pressed by the cover to the base (on some models it is fixed with screws or a latch).

Tact buttons or momentary microswitches are usually used as buttons. The contact plate of the clock button, on which, as a rule, silver sputtering is applied, over time, more and more oxidized, that is, the tarnishing film becomes thicker and with a slight push on the button, crushing the tarnishing films does not cause electrical conductivity even due to the tunnel effect. In other words, oxides interfere with the normal operation of the buttons.

The buttons should be replaced with new ones, but, as always, at the right moment they are not at hand and all that remains is to repair them. In addition, it will not be difficult to restore their working capacity.

To disassemble the button, you need to put a knife or other suitable tool between the lid and its base, and, prying, rivet the rivets. I advise you to leave the lid on one rivet, so that later it will be easier to reassemble the button.

In the blue circle there are oxidized metal plates.

There will be almost no sense in cleaning with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol; instead, it is better to rub them with pressure on a sheet of paper. "Grind" the contacts inside the case with a match or a toothpick.

After cleaning, they looked like this.

Place the metal plates with the convex side up. When assembling, it is not advisable to touch the plates from the side of the contacts; it is better to use non-magnetic tweezers for installation.

In some types of tact buttons there are rubber shock absorbers, their location is almost impossible to confuse.

After installing the shock absorbers and upper push-button parts, the covers can be closed and then riveted or glued.

Surely, many users have encountered such a breakdown, in which, during the rotation of the mouse wheel, the page moves in jerks, the reaction is inadequate or not at all. Usually, these kinds of symptoms indicate a malfunction of a device called an encoder (angle sensor), which is responsible for this option.

To disassemble it, it is necessary to unbend the metal legs holding the plastic body of the sensor.

Then, by slightly moving the encoder base, you can easily pull out the plate, which is installed to limit the scrolling step by clearly fixing the position of the petals on the contacts. After him and the disc itself with copper petals.

Most often, the breakdown is caused by the fact that the copper petals, systematically sliding over the same place, wear out the body and contacts over time, leaving indentations on them. Due to the plastic particles, which are then dragged by the petals (from the body to the contacts), the conductivity of the signals deteriorates, that is, the contacts "get dirty".

First you need to clean the encoder from grease, dirt and oxides. Then the copper tabs can be bent slightly (from the disc to the contacts).

If the grooves are deep, you can move the petals so that they do not fall on them henceforth.

It is advisable to apply technical petroleum jelly to the contacts during assembly, it will significantly extend the life of the sensor.

The metal paws of the sensor case do not need to be tightly clamped, otherwise the mouse wheel will spin tightly.

With such simple manipulations, you can restore the performance of the computer mouse yourself, to which you are so accustomed.

Buttons and encoder, if possible, it is better to immediately replace them with new ones, they will last longer, and besides, you will save time and nerves.

Video (click to play).

When assembling the mouse, do not forget to clean the optical lens from dust, dirt and lint.

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