I barely changed both of them with the press, but they were quickly broken and forced, then I bought them together with a bracket and forgot about them for three years.
I boiled them in a saucepan, then pulled them together with a piston mandrel and drove them with a press through a washer.
For a long time I screwed up, it's easier to take and change the assembly.
I personally didn’t press such, but I had to make a cone of metal and screw the truth with silicone with a screw, and in teskah it’s a show-off, don’t even try to just torment who wrote only in words did
With soapy water you wipe and in a vise you press in 10 minutes of work and you don't need to cut anything
some cones are needed to press them in, I stupidly cut and put them on. Two years - normal flight.
not quite halved. cut off the lower part.
Gazelle in all versions of the body is a car that is perfectly adapted to the conditions of domestic roads and is distinguished by its reliability and ease of operation. However, much in the design of this car does not correspond to modern standards of comfort, therefore gazelists very often resort to tuning.
First of all, Gazelle owners make an alternative body kit. To do this, a new front bumper must be installed. As a rule, this is a bumper made of plastic with slots for fog lights. In specialized stores, you can find a bumper that fits the old mounts, and installing it yourself is not difficult. You need to unscrew the fasteners on both sides with a screwdriver, remove the old bumper and install a new one, as in the video presented. The color of the bumper can be matched to the body color. The installation of plastic linings on the body, as well as plastic decorative thresholds, will also become easy for the car owner.
To give the Gazelle 4x4 appearance brutality and improve the off-road capabilities of the car, you can install protective metal arcs or a kenguryatnik. Some of the owners of Gazelles are limited to installing metal arches on the sides of the bumper. Installing a kenguryatnik on a Gazelle 4x4 is a simple procedure, but you must have certain skills. You can see how to put the kangaroo on your own in the video presented.
Very often, owners tune the front and rear optics of the Gazelle, for which they use LEDs or install additional fog lights.
To install the LED lights directly into the headlamp unit, you need to dismantle it and completely disassemble it. To do this, turn off the contacts, remove the clips, take out the headlight. Then carefully separate the headlight unit from the glass. With the help of glue, we attach the previously purchased LED strip either around the entire perimeter, or on certain areas. In this case, you can change the color of the headlight reflector, for which you can use ordinary foil or paint.
To give more personality to the car, Gazelle owners use the following accessories and elements:
You can install all the presented tuning accessories with your own hands if you have a standard set of tools and the necessary parts. You can buy them in tuning shops or specialized stores. When tuning the outer part of the Gazelle 4x4, the main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the car will not only lose its individuality, but it will also look like a spacecraft. The choice is yours, and the scope for tuning the outer part of the gazelle is huge!
VIDEO
As a rule, when tuning a Gazelle's interior, the first thing to change is the old-style steering wheel and the gearshift lever. For different versions of the Gazelle, you can find new elegance-style steering wheels with wooden inserts. This option is especially relevant for the Gazelle Business version, since the steering wheel is fully suitable for standard mountings. How to remove and install the steering wheel can be seen in the video. To improve the Gazelle's cab, such tuning parts are most often used as:
additional interior heater and power accessories (windows, mirrors, etc.),
new seats and new side door trim,
a ceiling console for storing various things and a table for the front panel,
new torpedo and LED dashboard illumination,
improved acoustic system and on-board computer.
To install power windows with your own hands, you must have a set of tools (keys, screwdrivers, etc.). The mechanical part of the changes is simple, but it is better to use the help of a specialist to connect the wiring. To replace the mechanism itself, using a conventional screwdriver, you must unscrew the fasteners of the window handle and everything that holds the door trim. Next, you need to carefully remove the casing - this will give access to the standard lifting mechanism. After that, two bolts are unscrewed, which attach the carriage to the door glass. Next, fix the glass in the upper position and use a 10 key to unscrew the lower and upper nuts securing the lift mechanism to the door. Next, the three bolts of the cable mechanism are unscrewed, which is removed from the door. An electronic mechanism is installed in its place, and the assembly takes place in the reverse order.
The strength and durability of a car body and a truck cab is a problem that is relevant for any car, especially a domestic one. Practice shows that any model has its own set of typical "diseases". Some places are actively covered with rust and quickly rot, while others have insufficient rigidity. Our today's conversation is devoted to some of the "weak points" of the basic "short" cab "Gazelle" and is based on conversations with tinsmiths involved in the repair of cars of this family.
Many people believe that for a truck, the issue of strength and durability of the cab is of secondary importance, since all the loads from it are taken by the frame. Of course, on the truck cab, in contrast to the monocoque body, neither the engine, nor the transmission and chassis assemblies "hang". Nevertheless, it also has a lot of loaded elements, on the strength of which its longevity, comfort and safety of the driver and passengers depend. Therefore, the engineer's engineers think over the power structure of the cab no less carefully than the load-bearing body. Replacing a truck cab is only slightly cheaper than replacing a car body.Repair, taking into account the fact that in both cases the tinsmiths are calculating by the number of parts, and does result in the same or even a lot of money.
According to the operators, the power frame of the base cabin of the onboard Gazelle, produced before 2003, has its own problem areas, and some of them are considered by experts to be irreparable. In our opinion, these places should be known both to those who work on these machines and to those who are going to buy a used Gazelle.
There is no doubt that, creating a lorry, GAZ engineers took care of protecting those sitting in the cockpit in the event of a frontal impact. According to modern passive safety requirements, the nose of the vehicle should be easily wrinkled and thereby absorb the impact energy. And the frame of the passenger compartment, on the contrary, is made rigid - so that living space is preserved for people. It is especially difficult to achieve this in cars with a half-hood layout.
So it is with the "Gazelle": the shield between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment became the first rigid load-bearing cross member of the cabin, and everything in front of it has relatively low rigidity and strength. The ends of the spars protruding forward from under the cab, as well as the openings of the right and left headlights in cars manufactured before 2003, did not have a rigid connection with each other. Between the openings of the headlights there were only removable elements: a cover plate with a hood lock and a cross beam under the bumper, and even a radiator, which traditionally does not pretend to be a power element.
What will all this turn into in a head-on impact is a topic for another conversation, but with long-term trouble-free operation, a weak "nose" becomes a separate source of problems. Its right and left sides "play" relative to each other when the car is moving. Therefore, in "older" cars, you can see large curved gaps between the hood, headlights, cladding, bumper and front fenders. Together with the changed appearance in 2003, a welded beam appeared under the headlights, although it looks rather flimsy.
Many "Gazelles" come off the side attachment points of the front bumper, which is rigidly attached through a removable cross beam and brackets to the frame side members. And its sidewalls are fixed on the mudguards of the cab, mounted on rubber cushions. "Playing" on them, the cabin inevitably deforms and, in the end, breaks the bumper.
The cross member under the bumper and its anchorage do not provide a sufficiently rigid connection between the right and left sides of the front end. In addition, after an accident, this beam is often not changed, but straightened. Of course, it is not possible to correct it perfectly, the beam remains "curved", with the bumper attachment points located in the wrong place. But the cost of replacing it is low.
The upper panel, on which the hood lock is located, gives some rigidity to the "muzzle" of the old-style Gazelle. But it is capable of carrying a power function only when it is attached to the headlight openings on both sides with all four standard bolts. In many cars, after the first removal of the panel, only two or three bolts remain.
After the very first winter, the panel mounting bolts, which are screwed into the nuts welded to the body, "stick" tightly: road dirt and salt accumulate abundantly on them. And when you try to turn them off, they break. Not all, of course, but at least one or two bolts are likely to die when the panel is removed. Compounds like WD40 or "liquid key" are very difficult to spray in tight spaces where the reverse side of the threaded part is located.
Drilling out broken bolts is a delicate and troublesome task. It is clear that in most cases they try to avoid it. Therefore, if only one or two bolts are torn off, during assembly, drivers and mechanics screw the panel onto two or three survivors. However, two or even three bolts, according to experts, are not enough to provide the required rigidity. Therefore, a conscientious owner will still make an effort to put all four bolts back in place.When buying a used car, you should pay attention to how many screws the panel is screwed on.
The front fenders are secured with the same bolts wrapped in welded nuts. These bolts also break when loosening. They also have to be drilled out. By the way, it is not always possible to preserve the "native" nut, and then you have to cut down its remnants. True, replacing the welded nuts with ordinary ones will no longer work here: you cannot crawl to the nuts from the inside. As a way out, one of our consultants suggested fixing the wing with self-tapping screws: three or four points on top and two on the side.
According to repairmen with engineering education, the cabin of an onboard Gazelle or a van with the same cabin lacks torsional rigidity.
Long spars extending far back and additional floor reinforcements provide such rigidity to the wagon body and even the “farmer's” cab. And in the short cab, the spars and the floor are constantly tense. Therefore, in cars older than two-three years, a fatigue crack appears on the cab floor in the area of the left spar.
It can be found under the rug: it usually stretches across the cab to the left of the gas pedal. This is where the bend of the spar is.
If there were an additional rubber cushion under the very bend of the spar, which easily ruptures upon impact and deformation of the cab, in the opinion of our consultants, the necessary rigidity would appear.
There is also a weak point on the engine shield. After two or three years of operation, and sometimes even earlier, a crack appears in the area of the clutch master cylinder attachment. No wonder: the constant clutch operation creates a load leading to fatigue failure. Restyling did not bring any changes to the cars. True, the restyled versions have not yet survived to such defects.
The clutch master cylinder is another area that needs attention when buying a used Gazelle. The presence or absence of cracks can tell a lot about the intensity of machine operation; perhaps the cracks have already been welded or the welding work will have to be carried out by the new owner. At the same time, gas welding can also be used, but experts pay attention to the fact that a "semiautomatic device" of the "Campy" type creates less residual stresses in the metal, which are not at all necessary in such "problem" places.
The driver of the Gazelle, like most domestic cars, often has to look under the hood. And here we are not talking about why, but about the fact that each opening shortens the life of the hood itself. After all, the Gazelle of both the old and the new model, it is a thin steel sheet with a modest amplifier, moreover, hung on unreliable hinges. The repairmen are especially delighted when next to the Gazelle there is another Nizhny Novgorod product - the Volga, whose durable hood, opening on a mechanism with complex kinematics and equipped with powerful springs, is a striking contrast to what is on the lorry.
It is easy to guess that constant distortions contribute not at all to the longevity of the paintwork, but rather to the rapid development of corrosion. Therefore, the inside of the hood should be carefully treated with "Movil", "Tektil" or another fairly effective means. But you shouldn't put a fashionable "protective" cover on the front edge: moisture and dirt only accumulate under it.
A lot of people don't like the fact that the stop that holds the hood open is located on the left. Drivers claim that it interferes with adding antifreeze to the expansion tank, brake fluid to the reservoirs of the clutch master cylinders and brakes. As a way out, they propose to install a gas spring strut from the luggage door VAZ2108 / 09 on the right side of the hood. She will not interfere, and the hood will lift itself.Without disputing this recommendation, we nevertheless invite those who want to take it up to think about a simple question: what will happen if in such a design the hood lock is unfastened at a speed of at least 100 km / h?
It is known that at the right door of the Gazelle's cab the hinges sag much faster than at the left one. The simplest explanation is as follows: when getting into the cockpit, the driver grabs the steering wheel with his hand, and the passenger grabs the inner door handle and, accordingly, rests on the door with his entire body mass. On UAZ and some other domestic, as well as most imported cars, a handrail is installed that solves such problems. In any case, it is not attached to the door.
Neither the old nor the new modification of the Gazelle has any handrails. Of course, installing it yourself is not a problem. However, there is no consensus among the people on this issue. The only thing that can be said is that the handrails can be any suitable: from some kind of car or even just a door handle. One of the drivers expressed the opinion that the handrail should not be placed on the dashboard, especially on a pre-2003 car. In his opinion, the dashboard is "weak" and if a passenger starts loading it at every landing, it will quickly loosen. Also note that in the event of an accident, a passenger who is not wearing a seat belt can hit and injure himself on the handrail installed above the glove box.
Therefore, opinions agree that the handrail attached to the rack is more suitable for the Gazelle. Cheap and affordable handrails installed above the doors on the ceiling of domestic cars are narrow. It is not very convenient to stick your hand in them. Our respondents offer two options. It is easier and cheaper to get the handrail from the KamAZ rack, somewhat more difficult and more expensive is to look for a folding "handle" from a Japanese truck during the "disassembly". There are other options: many drivers, as a rule, accidentally get comfortable handles from various foreign cars.
Of course, the theme of the "sore head" of the "Gazelle", visible to the naked eye, and invisible defects of the body "iron" is far from being limited to this. We will certainly return to it.
A detailed video lesson on the overhaul of the GAZelle car body. Everything will be possible do in a garage .
For repairs, you will need a set of panel repair linings for damaged areas of the body. Then you need to carefully measure out the areas that will have to be replaced, and mark to mark these parcels. Then cut off these areas with a grinder.
Armed with welding, solder the repair pads. And then prepare and paint the repair areas. More details about how to repair the body of a Gazelle can be told by this instruction embodied in a video clip.
Most modern drivers involved in cargo transportation opt for the Gazelle. Indeed, this car can, if anything, be successfully repaired with your own hands, without resorting to expensive services at a service station. We will learn in detail from the article on how the body repair of this domestic car is carried out.
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How many times have the world been told that “disease” is easier to prevent than to cure. So it is with the body. It is necessary to periodically monitor and take care of him, carrying out maintenance competently and at a high level.
More specifically, on the body of the Gazelle and other models of the GAZ automobile concern, maintenance will look like this:
Inspection and maintenance will need to be carried out daily;
Every 10 thousand kilometers traveled, carry out a general, major technical inspection (if the operation of the car takes place in extreme conditions, then the inspection period can be reduced to 6 thousand).
With regard to specific procedures:
Check first of all those body parts that are near the roadway.This includes sills, wheel arches, floor, and so on;
Check the entire body for rusty spots, scratches, etc.
Refers to popular repair operations related to the general modernization of Gazelles, Gaz 69, 3110, 3102, Gaz 24 and other models. In addition, this operation is recommended for carrying out after obvious overload on semi-trucks.
As you know, the factory Gazelle body is welded from two halves. The frame itself is cut and docked. All this, coupled with the fact that the old body is point-welded, and due to the rather large rear overhang, the load falls unevenly, the frame easily bends from overload.
In order to reinforce the body and thus avoid further problems, it is recommended to make a one-piece long section on the subframe. The frame will be fixed already with the help of stepladders across the board. Thanks to the subframe, the frame will also be strengthened, which can even be straightened in this way.
In some cases, the frame will crack. Undoubtedly, this is akin to a nightmare for a "gazelist", because it will be adjustment with a major bias. The main thing here is not to despair and understand why the frame breaks, and how the part can be repaired.
So, you should know that the body is initially fixed to the top of the frame with bolts. All in all, this decision has been described by many body repair experts as unfortunate. Because of this, the frame easily cracks along the bolt holes, because the loaded body constantly sways during the movement of the machine, thereby exerting enormous loads on the weak zones (in this case, the bolt holes).
After the bolts loosen, the fixation point inevitably breaks, which immediately affects the frame, which cracks.
Here's what you can recommend to car owners in this case:
If the frame is intact, then it is easy to remake the bolt mounts for stirrup and strengthen everything by welding a bent channel;
On a frame with cracks, you will have to tinker. In particular, it will be necessary to remove the body in order to put special inserts inside the frame.
The next type of Gazelle repair is carried out long before the appearance of cracks, so to speak, at a preventive level. As mentioned above, proactive measures are always more enjoyable and cheaper.
In this case, it is recommended to insert a 4 mm thick profile into the frame in the place where the cab joins the body.
Useful video about Gazelle body repair
VIDEO
This repair option is most often carried out on the body of Gas 3110, Gas 69, 24, 3102 and Gazelle, if corroded areas are visible. Below is a detailed sequence of actions:
With the help of a grinder, a rusty place in the body is cut out. If the body is so rotten that a hole has appeared, it should be cut off, adding 1-2 centimeters around the entire perimeter.
Attention. It is desirable to cut the hole evenly, for example, observing a rectangular or square shape. This is done so that the patch can be installed more conveniently, without problems.
Metallic surfaces around the edges of the hole are carefully cleaned. Also, deburring is cleaned from the inside of the hole, which is easy to do with a file;
Then you need to prepare a suitable patch from a piece of steel sheet having a thickness of at least 0.8 mm.
Note. When preparing the patch, do not forget to leave a decent margin of 1-1.5 cm.
The patch is welded to the body.
Advice. To make it easier to cook, it is recommended to weld some piece of metal, a tail, to the patch. This will allow you to conveniently hold the patch while welding.
At first, the patch is not welded in the corners with a continuous seam, but only slightly tacked for accuracy;
Then comes the full weld line, overlapping welding.
Attention. It is necessary to adhere to this order: the welding points on the line of the continuous seam should be at a distance of 10-20 mm from each other, no more. If you can make a continuous seam, keeping even smaller distances, so much the better. Much will depend on the skill of the welder.
Cleaning the seams is a mandatory welding procedure;
After that, a car putty is applied to the place of work;
Then the primer is applied, first the starting, and then the finishing;
The leveled surface is painted in the desired color.
Bodywork experts also recommend sealing the weld. Thanks to this, the delivered patch will last much longer on Gas 3110, 69, 24, 3102 and Gazelle. Sealing is an operation to eliminate possible moisture penetration into the weld seam through the putty.
In addition, it would be nice to carry out anticorrosive treatment of all seams and the patch itself. This is done before priming, applying the filler.
In general, in the process of active operation of Gaz 3110, Gazelle and Gaz 69 vehicles, various damages may occur. As a rule, we are talking about dents, cracks, chips of a metal surface, etc. If body parts are welded in places of damage, it is recommended to weld a local reinforcement on the back side.
In this regard, I would like to give two good advice:
The amplifier should be cut from sheet steel, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the metal of the part being repaired;
The parts should be welded so that the seams are in the direction perpendicular to the crack.
If the paintwork is damaged, then it is better to thoroughly clean this area of the body from dirt with sandpaper, then degrease it with some good tool and tint with nitro enamel.
Note. It will be useful for a body specialist to know that nitro enamel is dried in air for at least two hours. But, for example, synthetic enamel, which can also be used, is dried with a reflector.
Before painting with enamel, if areas of the body are significantly damaged, that is, before the metal, a primer should be applied. After that, wait for drying for one hour, and only then proceed to the main work.
As for the elimination of the dust obtained by painting the damaged body part, this is done more efficiently by hand. Polishing has proven to be the best method for removing dust.
If work is being carried out to eliminate floor defects, then it is imperative to use BPM-1 mastic or some other.
You can learn more about body repair from other publications on our website. Watch video and photo materials, study detailed tables and instructions. All this, taken together, will definitely help you in your work.
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