DIY cab repair

In detail: do-it-yourself cab repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

By car ZIL-5301, which for more than 10 years, the bottom of the cab needs to be welded in some places. You need to put patches. The corner places of the cab and the points of attachment of the cab to the frame are especially susceptible. Before scalding the cabin, it is advisable to disassemble it. Take out the seats, remove rubber mats, interior upholstery.

Places that are corroded to holes must be thoroughly cleaned. Cut out a metal patch with a thickness of 1 - 1.5 mm. The patch should be 1 - 1.5 cm larger along the contour. Weld the patch with a continuous seam. The place where the patch is installed must then be primed. Then we cover with enamel. After the enamel has dried, you need to treat it with bitumen mastic, and put a piece of plastic wrap.

We repair the thresholds as follows.

2. Unscrew and remove the cab door

3. Apply a new threshold over the old

4. Draw the outline of the threshold with a felt-tip pen

5. Remove our new threshold and draw a contour less than 10 mm.

5. Cut out the old threshold with a grinder or a sharp chisel

6. Align and adjust the new threshold

7. We clean the place of welding from traces of paint

8. On the new threshold, using a hole punch or drill, we make holes for welding rivets

9. We process and apply a layer of primer and paint on the inner surface of the threshold

10. Attach the threshold with clamps or clamps

11. We make several tacks by semi-automatic welding.

12. We hang the door and check the closing and opening of the door (gaps)

14. Boil the threshold. On the rack and under the wing, the threshold should be welded with a continuous seam.

Video (click to play).

15. We grind the welding seams with a grinder

16. Mark the holes for the number tag.

17. Next, we primer the threshold, putty and paint.

ZIL 130 is a reliable and powerful truck. Of course, its technical characteristics and cabin comfort are somewhat inferior to modern models of the global automotive industry, but these shortcomings can be easily corrected by tuning.

ZIL 130 was designed and put into production back in 1956. The first prototypes of the car had a carrying capacity of four tons, carbureted 6-cylinder engines with a working volume of 5.2 L and a capacity of 130 horsepower. During the tests, the truck showed weak dynamic qualities, which did not make it possible to use the car as a tractor.

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In 1958, the engineers of the automobile plant replaced the 6-cylinder ZIL assembly with a V-shaped 8-cylinder, which made it possible to increase the engine power to 150 horsepower. The updated car also received an improved cylinder block, which were located at an angle of 90 ° in relation to each other. This innovation made it possible to make the ZIL 130 a powerful working machine, capable of easily transporting multi-ton loads, and also perfectly coping with the role of a traction vehicle.

The powerful car's front axle is a sturdy forged steel beam. Dependent suspension - spring type. The side platform, which has three drop sides, is made of wood and equipped with a metal fittings. This allows you to conveniently load, unload and transport even very bulky cargo. The gas tank is spacious - 170 liters. The engine "eats up" in the combined cycle 29 liters of fuel per 100 km.The interior of the cockpit is rather modest, without any conveniences and special comfort.

That is why many owners of such equipment are trying to do truck tuning with their own hands, thereby bringing some of its characteristics in line with modern requirements.

To remove the "spirit of the last century" from the ZIL 130 salon, it is enough to experiment a little. It is quite easy to transform the cab with your own hands and make a comfortable workplace out of it. The first thing that car drivers don't like is the noise in the cabin. You can get rid of the problem with the help of sound insulation, as well as vibration isolation.

Next - the seats. This is a piece of furniture that is subject to maximum stress and loses its appearance over time. In addition, the old dermantin heats up in the sun, and this is unsafe for the driver himself. Therefore, down with the native upholstery, and in its place - new, practical and wear-resistant materials. Well, if we talk about cardinal changes, then it is recommended to change the factory seat to a pneumatic seat.

Tuning inside the cockpit can be continued by installing a high-quality audio system. Fortunately, there is enough space for both speakers and a subwoofer. Funny melodies or favorite songs will not let you get bored and will cheer you up even on the most rainy day. LED strips will refresh the car design and add originality to it.

If changing the interior is not at all difficult to cope with, then it will not be easy to limit the "irrepressible appetite" of the ZIL 130. To do this, you need to be well versed in the technique and have certain skills in working with it. But not everything is as bad as it seems. Tuning the engine will allow you to achieve very good results in terms of its economical operation. And the fact that the improvement of the unit can be done by hand will save money and time. Image - DIY cab repair

And here the first difficulty arises, how not to lose power? Conversion to diesel comes to the rescue. First, the consumption will drop to 20 liters per hundred kilometers. And secondly, the price of diesel fuel is often slightly lower than that of gasoline. Together, these two factors will significantly reduce the cost of maintaining a tractor. Dismantle the engine carefully so as not to damage the parts. The next step will be overcooking the efforts and brackets, finalizing the frame, lengthening the propeller shaft.

The engine, converted for diesel fuel, is installed in its original place. Then the muffler pipes are refined and the car is fully assembled. Before the first start-up of an updated diesel engine, in order to remove air, it is necessary to thoroughly bleed the power system, from the tank to the fuel pump. That's all - tuning is over! Power indicators and traction characteristics are at the same level, and the budget has been significantly saved. At the final stage, you can make chip tuning of the diesel engine.

Remove and send the flywheel - from 700 p.

Replace the support bearing - from 500 p.

Engine diagnostics - from 200 p.

Capital repairs - from 11 000 p.

Valve adjustment - 1000 p.

Replacing the piston group - 14,000 p.

Remove and send the radio - 1200 p.

Change the water pump - 1500 p.

DBC defect - 4400 p.

Do you know what is the matter? In this article, the most popular cases are considered, why so it happens and how to fix it.Do you know how often and in what way to change it? Do you want to send a zero resistance filter? You don't know which brand to buy? The answers to these questions can be found in the article.It is difficult to find a new one, but something happens always with it. Read the article and find out how to fix the 3 most common problems with this motor. It is also described here, with what frequency it is necessary to change the oil.ZIL-130 new cab Dismantling of elements of the cockpit and empennage ZIL-130 cab tuning ZIL-130 cab trim Cabin number ZIL-130 Shelf in the ZIL-130 cockpit Cars of the ZIL-431410 family were produced at the Moscow headquarters of AMO ZIL until January 1995 and continue to be produced at the Ural Automobile Plant AMO ZIL to this day. The main difference between ZIL-431410 cars and ZIL-433360 cars is the installation of a mod cabin. ZIL-130. In this regard, the following units and systems have been changed on ZIL-433360 vehicles: vehicle frame; clutch drive; brake system; electrical system and steering system. In addition, the front axle mod. ZIL-4331 and front suspension mod.ZIL-13 This chapter describes the repair of those units of ZIL-431410 vehicles that differ significantly from the units of ZIL-433360 vehicles or are not installed on them.DISASSEMBLY OF ELEMENTS OF THE CAB AND OPENINGDismantling the integral tail from the vehicle.It is recommended to remove the tail parts (Fig.! 0-2 and 10-3) in the following order:hang the device on the hook for lifting the device and place the hooks under the hood latch fingers, fixing the position of the hood;unscrew the fastening nuts and disconnect the lower belay cables from the frame brackets;unscrew the nuts and disconnect the springs 5 and the upper cables 6 from the brackets of the side braces of the radiator. After that, remove the plumage. Plumage installation is carried out in the reverse order. Image - DIY cab repair

Plumage details of the car ZIL-433360

Dismantling the cab from the car

Installation of the car cab The frame is shown in fig. 10-4. Before dismantling the cab from the car, it is necessary to fold the integral tail, open the cooling drain valves
liquid and drain it from the engine cooling system.

Then it is necessary to loosen the screws securing the clamps and heater hoses and remove the hoses. Loosen the screw securing the cab heater tap rod and disconnect the rod.

Loosen the screw securing the radiator shutter control rod and disconnect the rod. Unscrew the nut and the bolt of the louver control rod brackets.

Disconnect the manual control cables, air and throttle valves by loosening the screws securing the cables to the rods.

Disconnect the carburetor drive rod from the Throttle Valve Control Shaft.

Loosen the screws securing the clamps of the two-piece valve of the service brake system and disconnect the hose.

Unscrew the nut securing the wedge of the lower steering joint, unscrew this nut, drive out the wedge and disconnect the propeller shaft from the steering gear.

Disconnect power to the vehicle by removing the negative terminal from the battery.

Disconnect the bundle of electrical wires going to the generator and engine sensors (under the tail on the left).

Disconnect the plug-in connector of the wires going to the fuel gauge sensors, the air pressure drop in the brake drive system and disconnect the starter connection wires.

Disconnect the wiring harness going to the warning lights and rear lighting (right under the hood).

Unscrew the bolts securing the cab floor hatch cover and remove the cover.

Raise the car and unscrew the hose connector of the hydraulic clutch hydraulic actuator, disconnect the hose from the pneumatic hydraulic booster and install a plug on the hose. Seal the lower end of the speedometer cable. Unscrew the nut and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Loosen the clamp screws on the parking brake pipes and disconnect the pipes from the cab.

Unscrew the nut of the upper fastening of the front shock absorber on the right side, remove the bolt and disconnect the shock absorber from the cab. Unscrew the nut of the upper mounting of the rear shock absorber on the right side, remove the bolt and disconnect the shock absorber from the cab. The same should be done on the left side of the cab. Unscrew the nuts securing the bracket 2 (see Fig. 10-4) for limiting the vertical movement of the rear part of the cab and remove the bolt and the bracket.

Unscrew the nuts of the torsion bar arm studs on the right side and then on the left side. Lower the vehicle. Install the device for lifting the cab on the hook of the lift and insert the grips ‚the puller into the door openings, fixing the position of the cab.

Unscrew the nuts securing the front of the cab to the frame bracket on the right and left and remove the bolts. After that it is necessary to remove the cab ‹: by means of a tool and a lifting device from the vehicle frame. The cab is installed in reverse order.

Removing glass and window vents of the cab door

To remove the glass of the door and the window, it is necessary to remove the handle of the window regulator of the lock and the lock striker from the inside of the door by unscrewing the screws for their fastening.

Using a thin screwdriver or a special plate installed between the upholstery 7 and the door as close as possible to the upholstery clips, take the clips out of the door one by one and remove the door upholstery.

Lower the glass down with the window regulator, unscrew the fastening bolts of the seal holder (glass guide), remove the seals and the guide.

Unscrew, while holding the glass, the four bolts securing the power window housing. Remove the roller of the window regulator lever from the slot of the yoke of the yoke 3.

Lift the glass up and tilt it out through the window opening.

To dismantle the vent, open it by turning the locking knob 18 (see Fig. 10-5) with the pawl 19 pressed.

Unscrew the nut 28 and lightly knock on the upper and lower holders of the axle 32 to remove the glass.

Carefully knock the pin out of the locking handle and remove it. Unscrew nut 22, remove the locking pin and release the glass.

Removing the window regulator

To dismantle the power windows (see Fig. 10-6), you need to remove its handle 10, for which you need to squeeze the plug with a thin screwdriver, unscrew the fastening screw and remove the door lock button and the door lock handle. ‚

Remove the door trim as described above and place it under; glass is any reliable stop. Then you have to unscrew four? housing fastening bolts 5 and remove the window lifter assembly

Door window regulator with glass

Removing the door lock

To remove the door lock (Fig. 10-7) it is necessary to remove the door trim ‚as described above Then unscrew the two screws securing the outer door handle 20 and remove it.

Unscrew the two screws securing the drive housing 28. Unscrew the three screws that secure the lock housing 8 from the inner side of the door and two screws from the end side. Then remove the lock assembly through the shock of the door.

Checking the door after assembly

The car doors must be free to open and close. Welding of door hinges to the cab body pillars is not allowed.

The axes of the upper and lower door hinges 13 and 16 (see Fig. 10 5) must be aligned. The cab doors must fit tightly, without distortions in the doorway.

Rubber seals at the interface with glass and the cabin should be coated with paste, which ensures tightness, excluding the penetration of water into the cabin.

The door vents in the locked position must fit snugly against the seals. When opening and closing the window, the force on the handle should be no more than 20 ... 30 N

Parts of the window regulator must have an anti-corrosion coating. With the assembled glass of the lift, the levers must move freely, without jamming. Retaining tongue

housings must hold the sector and not allow the sector to come out of full engagement ‹: gear. The longitudinal play of the drive shaft 12 (see Fig. 10-6) should not exceed 1.0 mm. Free rotation of the handle 10 before the start of the movement of the levers is allowed no more than 1800.

The windows of the cab doors should smoothly, without distortions and jamming, raise and lower the glass of the doors. The effort on the window lifter handle should not exceed 30 N (3 kgf) when lowering and 40 N (4 kgf) when lifting. The window regulator does not require adjustment when installing the sliding glass. Uneven unwinding of the balance spring and slipping of the coils are also allowed, if this is not accompanied by a squeak.

Door locks must work properly when using both the inside and outside handles. The door installation must be adjusted according to the lock and finally secured with the notified and adjusted doors.

Refueling the rubber lock

Removal and installation of windscreen and rear glass

To remove the windshield, use a screwdriver to remove the rubber lock located in the longitudinal groove in the middle of the seal. Use a screwdriver to bend the upper ridge of the gaskets along the entire length of the glass.

Holding the glass from the outside, push the right or left upper corner of the glass with a strong push on it from the inside and gradually extend the entire upper part of the glass, and then remove the glass from the cabin opening. Remove the seal and clean it from the old sealing mastic.

The rear window of the cab is removed in a similar way.To install the windshield, it is necessary to clean the flange of the cab opening from the remnants of the old water-locking mastic and apply a new water-locking mastic to the outer edge of the flange of the cab opening using a wooden spatula. Then install the rubber seal on the flange of the cab opening. The installation should be started from the middle of the lower part of the opening, put it with a groove on the flange.

Having inserted the glass into the opening of the windshield of the cab, direct its lower part into the groove of the seal. Then, periodically pressing on the glass and helping with a light tapping with a rubber hammer to bring it to the required position.

In order to prevent the seals from bending when installing the glass, the groove glass must be filled with a wooden spatula. When installing the windshield, it is recommended to wear protective goggles to protect your eyes in case the glass breaks.

Having installed the glass in the cabin opening, it is necessary to introduce the water-locking compound into the groove of the seal from the outside between the glass and the seal using a lever-plunger syringe.

Tuning the cabin is made by hand. Then he installed the passenger seat from the Gazelle car, tinted the rear window, sheathed the interior with leatherette, installed a shelf for the radio at the top, and expanded the glove compartment. There is also a rug on the floor from a Gazelle car.

I made the cab trim myself. I made it from materials such as leatherette, plywood, fiberboard, and foam rubber 1 cm thick.All this was fitted on the doors, covered with leatherette and the trim on car clips, so that at any time you could disassemble and get to the right place or mechanism.

The ZIL-13 cab number is located on the right side of the cab under the passengers' seat. It is screwed onto 4 self-tapping screws from the factory so it goes, and not on rivets, so the traffic police inspectors should know about this and not fool their heads. The frame number goes over the years in different ways, someone has painted it with paint, and according to the newest machines, they have already filled the frame number.

The shelf is made of a 1.5 cm board, sheathed with foam rubber and covered with leatherette. The shelf is held at 2 corners as shown in the first photo. Where the tape recorder put a hairpin so that the shelf does not crack on the hummocks.

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admin March 29, 2018 @ 12:43 pm Image - DIY cab repair

Domestic automotive giants have produced a huge variety of models, some of which even symbolize individual eras. One of these legends is called the ZIL 130 truck, the production of which has been carried out for more than a dozen years. Today we will talk about how to make tuning ZIL 130, and why it is needed at all.

If you make a small excursion into history, then the appearance of this truck seriously influenced the automotive industry of that time. Especially for this model, Soviet specialists created the following elements:

new type of fuel;
new oil and other technical fluids;
rubber seals and plastic parts;
new material for painting.

In most cases, people who regularly use this vehicle rarely do tuning of the ZIL 130. One of the striking examples is only a pickup based on the Ford E-250 from Tomsk. True, the car received only a cab from a domestic truck.

In order to understand what the best option for revising the ZIL 130 can be, you need to take into account the peculiarities of using a truck. First of all, ZIL 130 tuning is needed to improve indicators such as carrying capacity and engine power. At the same time, do not forget about the comfort of the truck owner. It is about these areas that we decided to mention in this publication.

This idea is quite simple to implement. It is only necessary to install more reliable suspension elements and increase the performance of the power unit.

In order to strengthen the suspension of the truck, it is necessary to install more durable components in place of those used as standard. If you intend to make the ride of the machine as smooth as possible, we advise you to remove the springs and apply air bags.

But you can increase the power of the ZIL 130 engine in the following ways:

Replace the jets in the carburetor (this will also lead to an increase in gasoline consumption).
Cylinder head boring to increase intake / exhaust port diameters. However, it will also be necessary to find the appropriate valves.
Installation of a camshaft with cams of various diameters and heights. Better springs and valves are also recommended.
Boring cylinders to increase their volume. The procedure must be carried out very carefully, as otherwise there may be problems with the cooling system.

One of the significant problems of domestically produced cars is the presence of serious noise in the cabin. This noise appears not only as a result of vehicle movement, but also from the friction of various trim elements. And the operation of the power unit leads to unpleasant vibrations inside the car. To reduce the influence of this "chronic disease", it is recommended to use vibration and noise insulation.

Another tuning option for the ZIL 130 is the replacement of the standard seat upholstery made of leatherette. Some motorists decide to replace all of the interior trim. Many truck owners complain that the seats are very hard. The problem can be solved by installing pneumatic seats.

Installing a good radio and speakers is another step that will help you improve your ZIL 130. As you can see, there are actually a lot of tuning options, you just need to try to implement some of them.

Customizing is a popular trend in the work of auto and motorcycle enthusiasts, which appeared in the west and eventually reached our country.The first custom cars were assembled on the basis of motorcycles, but now cars are increasingly becoming “patients” of craftsmen.Moreover, cars are often completely altered, or better to say, on the basis of old cars, absolutely unique copies are created, both in terms of appearance and internal content. Custom, no matter whether it is a bike or a car, cannot be confused with anything - this allows the owner of such a unit to show his individuality.A striking representative of automotive customization can be called ZiL - a pickup truck, the author of which is Roman (DrBroman) from Moscow. So, welcome: tuning ZIL 130 - a pickup from an old truck.The project of building a pickup truck from an old ZIL-130It is worth noting that this is not the first project of the author, in front of him was a pickup truck on the “Volgovskaya” base in the combined styles of Chevrolet El Camino and Ford Ranchero. Unfortunately, the project was not completed due to problems with the engine supplier for the car. After him, Roman turned up a full-size van Ford E-250, which became a donor for ZiL.Ford's dimensions are approximately 6 meters in length and slightly longer than two meters, with a gross weight of more than four tons. The car is equipped with a 4.2 liter engine with an automatic transmission, the units and the body are mounted on a serious spar frame.The cabin was used from the ZIL 131, in the northern version (the former polar drilling station). The fitting showed that the cockpit refused to slide into place, so the author had to undergo a major alteration. The bottom and power structures of the cab were redone, in addition, the pedal attachment point was carried 150 millimeters forward.Zil-130 the very beginning of the projectThe box formed as a result of the reconstruction was decided to be used as a container for multimedia systems, and a subwoofer found its place there. From above, the box is closed with an aluminum lid, on which there is an armrest with a glove compartment and places for glasses.The instrument panel was taken from an American donor, the glass was removed from it and the hull dimensions were changed for the Zilovskaya panel, after which the protection from the plexus was cut out, and the whole structure was installed in a regular place in the ZIL cockpit.
The front bumper is homemade, of a peculiar angular shape. The base of the bumper is a spatial welded structure made of a square tube, sheathed with sheet metal.Fangs brought to the desired shape are attached to the bumper - an integral attribute of ZiL. Decorative moldings are installed on the front side of the bumper.Native truck fenders have been redesigned and welded to the bodyThe front cladding and fenders were carefully fitted and then welded together to make the cab more closely match the look of the American pickup. After that, the welded seams and other surfaces were putty and polished.The frame from Ford was shortened, for this, pieces were cut out of it and parts of the side members were welded back, reinforcing elements were laid along the welds. The frame has been de-rusted and painted orange.Ford E-250 donor frame has been shortenedAccording to the length of the frame, the cardan shaft and the fuel tank had to be shortened. The cardan shaft was cut on a lathe and the fitted parts welded together. As a result of the alteration, the tank has lost about fifty liters of volume and now holds about 90 liters, however, the author believes that this is quite enough.In the suspension, the springs were cut and the spring earrings were redesigned, as a result of which the car “crouched” half a meter (along the cab) when compared with the height of the original ZIL.
The wheels have alloy wheels with a classic pattern and have a size of 305 / 55R20.Initially, the new pickup used a native engine from a donor car, a V-shaped gasoline six with a volume increased to 4.2 liters. Now installed is a Mopar 5.2 Magnum V8 with a capacity of 500 hp.The exhaust system is simple and original - two pipes with a diameter of 63 mm, made of stainless steel, go into a muffler with a diameter of 76 mm. The difference in pipe length allows the engine to produce its characteristic booming sound at low revs.The body and rear fenders were made of sheet metal, then putty and painted. The wings have an incomparable shape, it should be noted - the author did his best, the design turned out to be very successful in terms of design. The rear bumper carries EuroFURA lamps framed by rubber moldings.Tuning ZIL 130 is far from overThe work on the car is not finished yet, the author has big plans for the future, but in the form he has now, the custom makes an amazing impression. All lines are verified, details of decoration and optics look like family. And the driving characteristics of the car are enviable. I would like to wish Roman good luck in the ongoing work on the car, and may it show itself from the very best sides! Image - DIY cab repair

Good day (it’s like it’s night for me) everyone!

After watching the sapper ZiL, I wanted to show my own to the world.
I'll make a reservation right away: I collect models at a very amateur level in order to amuse myself and show my friends.

It all started with the fact that after assembling the 131st from ICM, I asked myself: does anyone make 130 on a 72nd scale? It turned out not. I decided to make it myself. For a long time I climbed the Internet in search of diagrams and drawings. Then there were questions about the wheels, frame, springs, bumper, propeller shaft, etc.

Having bought an airborne 131st and a GAZ-51, it began "production". Mostly details from 131 ZiLa, from GAZ-51 (or rather Lublin 51):
-wheels (I did not find others by that time, only after assembly I saw that the wheels on the D-30 are very similar to the wheels of the 130th)
-differential (a piece of the rear axle, who collected GAZ from MW - he will understand)
-front beam
-front springs

Since I have a desire to collect a series of agricultural equipment, the color is appropriate.

The photo shows the car after the accident. In general, ZiL was assembled about a year ago, but the site does not want to upload a photo of that period, tk. they are too big. It's a pity.
In the process of repair, I plan to reduce the front bumper and move the front axle forward. I'm thinking of changing the body to a 3-section.

An acquaintance promised to reduce the photo of the truck before the accident, as he would help fill them in here.
The plans for the future are to assemble the URAL-4320 onboard and some kind of DT-75. Naturally, everything will be in civilian color (most likely in orange).

I'm very interested in getting into the materiel.By painting and traces of exploitation - I do not know how to do all this (tinting, washing, etc.).
With respect I will accept criticism and wishes!

Found on request cab zil gaz 66 two video files. We have selected for you the best video instructions, reviews. The presented videos are published with photos. Happy viewing.

Owner reviews: Excellent ergonomics. Comfortable fit. Handlebar adjustment for reach and height. Lumbar support seats. Heated front seats. Climatronic. Eight speakers. Rear parking sensors. Heated and adjustable mirrors. Right mirror with memory. Increased ground clearance (package for Russian roads). Roomy glove compartment. Very roomy trunk. Full sized spare wheel. Strict appearance. The service interval is 15,000 km.

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Photo report on the restoration of Zil 130We have 12 KAMAZ trucks at our enterprise, 7 of them I made according to the same scheme as in the video. The roof of this car was torn off after 50 thousand runs, they solved the problem by riveting it in a circle. Now the mileage is 200 thousand and the result of the quality of the manufacturer's plant is visible. The cabin is all rusty and full of holes, the painting was done without metal processing, hence the result. So we have to finish the factory "kosyachki". 5 other rotting KAMAZ trucks are approaching.About Zilka and about Zilka, a story-story. Zil 130 ZIL 131 ZIL 133 ZIL 133 GYa ZIL 4331 ZIL 441510 ZIL 431810 ZIL 125 ZIL 157Pokaži kontrolnike predvajalnikaone of my favorite cars)))+ Do-it-yourself car repair jokedI did everything perfectly well, I had to paint the bumper+ rope kunashev Then I did not have time, I had to urgently go to harvest grain. I painted in the evening, and the next day after lunch I was already on the field.What kind of paint did you use?But it looks gorgeous, even better than it came off the assembly line once, the headlights shine.+ Restile Primer Body 992, paint COLOMIX 303, Khaki color, but it turned out not quite dark, according to the idea it should be even darkerSPARE PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PARTSSPECIAL EQUIPMENT BASED ON URAL, MAZ, KAMAZ ____________________Frame of the car ZIL-130Details of the ZIL-130 frame are made: longitudinal beams from ZOT steel (with the addition of titanium); cross beams No. 1, 4 and 5 of steel 20; cross beams No. 2 and 3 from Art. 08.Dismantling the frame.Before repair, all riveted joints of the frame should be disassembled, the parts washed, carefully inspected with preliminary cleaning of stress concentration points to detect subtle fatigue cracks.To disassemble the riveted joints of the frame, pneumatic chipping hammers, gas cutting and air-arc cutting with carbon electrodes are used.Repair of longitudinal beams. The longitudinal beam is straightened if the curvature of the upper beam is more than 2 mm over a length of 1000 mm or more than 5 mm over the entire length of the beam; or the curvature of the vertical wall is more than 2 mm over a length of 1000 mm or more than 10 mm over the entire length of the beam. The longitudinal beam is straightened in a cold state on a press or a special stand.To straighten the twisted longitudinal beam, the racks are installed at a distance from each other, depending on the length of the beam and the location of the twisted section, fold back the slats, install the beam on roller supports, close the slats and lock them with pins.Then the beam is pressed against the roller bearings with screws. With the help of pneumatic cylinders, the longitudinal beam is raised so that the movable supports and the hammer of the hydraulic press do not interfere with the straightening.The position of the longitudinal beam is fixed with stoppers in the guides. Then, by rotating the handle of one of both struts, the twisting of the longitudinal beam is eliminated.To correct the curvature of the vertical wall of the longitudinal beam, the movable supports are installed on the table of the hydraulic press, depending on the size and location of the deflection, and are fixed with persistent fingers.Then the longitudinal beam is installed with a concave surface on the supports, and its ends are fixed in the racks.By correcting the relative position of the racks and the hydraulic press, they find a convenient position for straightening. Repair of fatigue cracks on frame parts.To determine the location and edge of cracks in the ZIL-130 frame parts, the damaged areas are thoroughly cleaned to a metallic sheen with a rotating steel brush. Then the defective area is washed with kerosene and wiped dry.Using a magnifying glass with a sevenfold magnification or crocus powder (diluted in kerosene) and a magnet, examine the damaged area and make a mark with a core at a distance of at least 50 mm from the visible end of the crack.A fatigue crack occurs without permanent deformation of the material and its edges match exactly. Therefore, a crack is cut before welding to provide a butt-weld gap.If the visible end of the crack is located on a shelf or profile bend, then the slot is made along the entire shelf and along the wall at least 50 mm from the shelf, and if the crack has spread to the wall, then the slot is made 50 mm further than the visible end of the crack.The butt-weld slot improves the quality of the weld seam welding, and also provides the invisible end of the crack along the line of its visible end without grooving.When repairing frame parts, it is allowed to weld cracks, cut or cut out the damaged part and weld on an additional part. All welds must be butt welded.Overlapping welding of reinforcing linings of trough-shaped inserts and additional parts is not allowed. In case of cracks passing through the holes for the rivets of the fastening of the crossbars, the damaged area is cut out and an additional part is welded, which is made from rejected frame parts or sheet steel Art. 3.Repair of the cabin and tail of the ZIL-130 The main defects of the ZIL-130 cockpit and tail:Dents on the front, rear, roof, floor and door sill panels.Dents with sharp bends and tears in the front, rear, roof, floor and seat panels.Breaks along the lower opening in the front of the cab at the wing attachment points.Cracks: on the front and rear panels, on the floor, roof, on the threshold, from the corner of the door openings to the windshield, on the flanging at the interface. the inner panel with the floor, in the doorway, in the hinge attachment points, in the seat stand attachment points.Corrosion damage on the lower belt of the cab, on the rear panels, front end panels, door sills, on the floor.Dents on the inner and outer door panels.Cracks or tears on the inner and outer panels, at the hinge attachment points ..Curvature of the flanged part of the panel.Separation of panel amplifiers, door frame brackets, panel connectors, seal holders.Corrosion damage to the bottom of the panel.Dents in the cladding at the bottom.Cracks and tears in the cladding.Separation of the cladding amplifiers: top, bottom and side.Cracks and tears through the headlight and sidelight holes and mounting holes.Dents on the hood panel of the ZIL-130.Cracks or tears in flanges or anywhere else.Detachment of the bonnet latch pin fastening bonnet, fixing plate, amplifier and bracket on the front bonnet reinforcement, plate holder. bonnet mountings, horn amplifier, and rear amplifier bulkhead.Cracks or tears in the wing.Detachment of reinforcements and wing sidewalls.Corrosion damage to the wing.The method for detecting these defects is external control. For the repair of the cab, a bogie conveyor with mechanical movement is used, which consists of stands-bogies, guide rail tracks, traverse bogies for rearranging the stands-bogies on a return rail track, and traction chains with drive and tension stations.The ZIL-130 cabin is being repaired using the flow-guard method. At the first post of the production line, the doors are removed, the damaged and unusable parts of the panels and the nodal joints of the cabin are defective and cut out. On the damaged and unusable parts of the cabin panels, special marking templates are installed and marked with chalk.Marking templates correspond in shape to additional repair parts, and in overall dimensions are smaller than repair parts by 25 mm along the lateral notch. At the second post of the production lines, the bent places of the cabin panels are straightened. At the third post of the production line, cracks, holes, breaks are welded and the hinges of the cab doors are replaced.To check the distortions and deflection of the openings of the windshield and pillars of the doorways, verification templates are used in the form of a frame welded from angle steel. Skews and deflections are eliminated by using mechanical and hydraulic stretchers with a set of removable mandrels, depending on the shape of the stretched or compressible surfaces, as well as rubber and wooden pads.Mechanical stretching is a pipe, into the ends of which threaded bushings with right and left threads are installed and welded. Screws are screwed into the threaded bushings, the outer ends of which have holes for the pins for fastening replaceable mandrels. To edit openings on
screws install mandrels and secure with pins.

Video (click to play).

The configurations of the mandrels correspond to the shape of the surface to be straightened. The place for the support of the guy wires is chosen so that one mandrel rests against a solid base, and the other against the place of deflection. Then, rotating the pipe through the hole in its middle part with the help of a knob, they correct
damaged place. If, during the straightening process, a crack forms in the straightened place, then it is welded and then straightening is continued.