DIY men's shoes heel repair

The process of replacing a man's heel differs from replacing a heel on a woman’s shoes, in that a man’s heel has a large area and they are attached with nails or self-tapping screws. But always the first operation is to strengthen the heel by precisely gluing it into place, and only then tighten it on the self-tapping screw through the heel pad, even enough for one self-tapping screw with a cross section of at least 5mm. It is possible and on nails, shoe masters use for these purposes special device for driving nails... With its help, they easily drive in shoe nails in the heel from the inside. You can watch this process in the video below.

If this device is not available, you can use a small hammer or screw in the screws. At the same time, it is very important to tighten them well so that they do not give discomfort to the heel.

It depends on what the material of the heel is and its structure. If the sole and heel are made in the form of squares-voids, then only glue. A solid heel can be nailed. To do this, you will need a boot paw for high-quality installation and bending of nails from the inside.

I had to attach a thick rubber heel to the wide sole of the boot. Combined fasteners. He took out the insole, tore off the cardboard seal, exposing the leather ties on the rubber sole. He degreased the heel and the place of gluing on the sole and smeared it with glue. Shoe glue Moment, for rubber, rubber and leather. After a few minutes, letting the glue penetrate into the surfaces to be glued, he connected the parts. From the inside of the boot, in a square, a centimeter from the sides of the heel, I drove four ordinary self-tapping screws into wood, five millimeters less than the thickness of the heel. They "drowned" perfectly. In order for the edges of the heel to also press against the sole, he clamped the entire gluing into a clamp with a flat base under the heel. He removed the glue that had come out. I put it to dry. A day later, I glued the inner cardboard insole and put the insole in.

It is important to accurately position the heel around the edges of the sole so that you have to trim and shine. If the heel is not native but adapted, it will be possible to paint it with ordinary spray paint.

Looks like a rubber heel from the inside. )) Shoe repair, worn heels, heels + joints. My contacts.

How to replace a heel on a beveled, “killed”, worn out, worn out heel.

We attach the heel to the nails with a pistol.

Shoe repair. Replacement of heels on men's shoes.

And so, we start a new line of videos. Shoe repair. This is what I have been doing professionally for over 12 years.

How to change heels for men's shoes, heels are sold in special shoe repair shops. Developing for children.

The heel in the men's boots cracked straight from the socks. I repaired the crack, filled the heels with a micropore, and put it on.

Use oak birch generally a hardwood tree! My site - .

There is an operation in shoe repair - to put shoe joints. Why do they ask you to put shoe joints? To.

How to replace heels? Combined heels.

Historians claim that the first footwear appeared in Eurasia more than 30 thousand years ago. Shoes were made from animal skins, woven from plant leaves. Since then, the technology of making shoes has stepped forward, often artificial materials are used for its manufacture, which are not inferior to, and even surpass in wear resistance, leather.

But even the best quality shoes wear out heels over time, especially in women's boots and stiletto heels. Usually, not the entire surface of the heels is worn out, but only the back part.Therefore, it must be ensured that wear does not touch the base of the heel. If the base is worn out, it will have to be ground down to flatten the entire supporting surface, and this is unnecessary work and a decrease in the height of the heel.

Factory heels, as a rule, are made of plastic and they are fixed on the base of the heel of shoes with glue and pins inserted with an interference fit into the holes provided for them in the heel.

In order to change worn out heels, you must first remove the factory heels from them. The line of contact of the heels with the base of the heel is usually clearly visible. There is a light streak in the photo above.

To remove a worn-out heel, you need to put the shoes on one side on a hard surface and press with a boot knife, swinging it in the plane of the blade, to the place of the border of the base of the heel and the heel. You can use a simple knife or even a flat-blade screwdriver. In this case, it is better to remove the heel from the side of the sole so that possible small damages to the heel are not visible from the outside.

The heel was torn off the base of the heel of the shoes, and now it is not difficult to remove it. The heel is removed from the second shoe in the same way.

The photo shows a view of the removed factory-made heel from the side of the installation on the base of the heel of the shoes. Some factories provide extra heels for shoes. Check if there are spare heels in the box of these shoes. Then all repairs for replacing heels will be reduced to smearing the factory heels with glue, for example, "Moment" and installing it on the heel of shoes.

If there are no sapas heels, then you can search in stores. Finished heels are plastic and metal. The photo shows a metal powder heel for shoes with stiletto heels.

After removing the heels, the heel of shoes of approximately the same type as in the photo will open in front of you. There can be two, three or even four holes for pins for factory heels, depending on the area of ​​the heel. But the repair technology is the same for all cases.

The best material for new heels is 5-6 mm polyurethane sheet with medium elasticity. It can be purchased at the ruins from the junk merchants. When choosing, you need to check the rigidity of the polyurethane. With strong pressure with your fingernail, it should bend slightly.

If there is no polyurethane, then rubber from car tires will work well. It also has high abrasion resistance. But getting a piece of flat rubber out of a round tire will take some tinkering.

To make a heel, it is necessary to apply its contour to a polyurethane or rubber plate. To do this, you need to attach the heel of the shoe to the workpiece and circle it around the perimeter with a marker or ballpoint pen.

The shape of the heels for the right and left shoes, as a rule, is different and this must not be forgotten when cutting out the workpiece. You can also circle the removed worn heel with a handle, but I prefer to circle the heel.

After applying the markings, the heels must be cut out. You can cut polyurethane with a sharp knife, wetting its blade, to improve glide, in water. But polyurethane is very difficult to cut with a knife, and I prefer to cut it with a jigsaw with a file on wood. Polyurethane is easy to saw with a jigsaw.

For cutting, the marked plate is clamped in a vice. As soon as a few millimeters have been cut, the plate is pulled by hand so that the jigsaw file is not clamped. Then the heel can be cut out pretty quickly. You need to cut along the outside of the line so that there is a margin. The protruding part of the heel due to the level of the heel of the shoes can then be grinded off on an emery column or cut off with a knife.

New heels are ready and you can start installing them on the heels of your shoes. But before that, the heels themselves must be prepared for the installation of heels.

Probably, looking at the photo above, you noticed the appearance of the heels after removing the heels.The plane is almost all in the holes and the question arises, how can we fix the new heels?

The answer is simple, you need to install wooden plugs in the holes for attaching standard plastic heels. The pin holes are usually 5 mm in diameter and 10-15 mm deep. The depth is measured first. If it is less than 10 mm, then it is necessary to drill the base of the heel to a depth of 15-20 mm with the help of a reduced.

If you drill with an electric drill, then you need to take into account that the drill can "pull" the soft material of the heel and the depth of the hole will turn out to be greater than necessary. I usually perform this operation manually, holding the drill in a special handle.

Plugs in heels for installing heels can be made from any piece of wood by sawing off the desired piece along the length and pricking it with a chock knife of the required diameter. You can also use ready-made, for example, wooden Japanese chopsticks that fit well in diameter.

It is enough to cut them into pieces of the required length. If the stick is too thick, then peel it off a little with a knife. Once the corks have been made, they can be hammered into the holes in the heels. The diameter of the plugs should ensure their tight fit, but you should not make plugs with a diameter much larger than the holes in the heel, since the heel can crack when plugging the plugs. The plugs should not protrude beyond the level of the heel surface, it is better to let them be slightly recessed.

The heels are ready for installation, wooden plugs are driven into the heels, and it's time to install the heels on the shoes.

To securely fasten the heel heels, I use a combined fastening, gluing, followed by nailing with lingering shoe nails, which experts call the Tex type TP. Shoe nails differ from ordinary nails in that they have flat edges, a diameter of 1-2 mm and a length of about 15 mm. The head of the boot nails is also of a special shape, small in diameter, but thick. Flat edges on the nail shank prevent it from spinning when walking, and the shape of the head acts as a heel area and increases its service life.

If there are no shoe nails, then you can use simple finishing nails to fix the heels, shortening them and giving the rod the shape of a shoe, grinding it off with a file or on an emery column. Finishing studs are commonly used to attach door trims.

To accurately hit the nails in the plugs hammered into the heels, it is advisable to first mark the driving points on them before gluing the heels. For this, the heel is applied to the heel, the polyurethane is slightly transparent and the corks are visible. It is enough just to put dots with a marker in the places where the traffic jams are visible.

If the plugs do not show through, if the heels are made of rubber, then you can attach the heel to the heel, shift it towards yourself and make one risk at the level of the plugs, then move the heel to the side and apply a second line. You will get a cross into which you will need to hammer a carnation. Since the diameter of the plug is 5 mm, this method will provide sufficient accuracy.

You can nail the heel with nails by attaching the heel directly to the heel, but this is inconvenient, since the heel can move and set inaccurately. Therefore, I prefer to first hammer all the nails into the heels so that the sharp ends appear on the opposite side of the heels. You need to hammer the carnations by placing the heel on the board so that the sharp ends of the nails do not flatten and become blunt.

For more reliable fastening of the heel, before nailing, the mating surfaces of the heel and heel are abundantly lubricated with waterproof Moment glue. After exposure to the recommended rules of use for 5 minutes, the heel is applied to the heel and pressed firmly.

There are special paws for repairing shoes with nails. But I get by with a large file with a wooden handle. I rest the file on a massive piece of iron, and the heel of my shoe rests on the handle.

As you can see in the photo above, the studs are hammered in, the heel is firmly installed on the heel, but the edges of the heel protrude somewhat beyond the contour of the heel. The protruding part of the heel must be removed by cutting off with a knife or on an emery column.

Shoes, with new heels installed with their own hands, look no worse than new ones. If desired, the heels on the front side can be painted with a waterproof marker or paint.

If, when buying women's shoes, you find a spare set of heels in the box, then the first repair by changing worn out heels will not be difficult. It is enough to remove the old ones and grease the surface of the heel with glue and hammer the pins of the new heel into the heel with a hammer.

But sometimes the difficulty arises that when removing worn heels, one of the pins breaks off and remains in the heel. It is impossible to remove the pin with pliers, as there is nothing to grab onto. The pins can be drilled with a drill, having previously sunk them into the heel. But in this case, the walls of the hole will most likely be worn away, and the new heels will not hold securely.

To remove the pin from the heel of shoes without damaging the walls of the holes, you must first drill a hole with a diameter of 2.5 mm in the center of the pin. If a self-tapping screw with a diameter of 3 mm is available, then you can screw it into the drilled hole and remove the pin. It would seem that instead of drilling a hole in the pin, you can immediately screw a small diameter self-tapping screw into it, and take it with pliers to remove the pin. But in this case, the self-tapping screw will distribute the pin to the sides, and it will hold on even more tightly in the heel and it will be impossible to remove the pin.

If there is no self-tapping screw with an outer diameter of 3 mm, but there is an M3 tap, then a thread must be cut with it in the drilled hole.

Next, a screw with an M3 thread with a length of at least 15 mm is screwed into the pin so that it passes through the entire length of the pin, and the head of the screw with a part of the thread remains protruding.

Now you can substitute an emphasis on the heel, for example, the shaft of a screwdriver, grasping the head of the screw with side cutters, and easily remove the stuck pin from the heel.

The pin has been safely removed from the heel of the shoes without damaging the holes, and now you can start installing spare heels.

It is not necessary to lubricate the pins of the heels with glue and the surface of their adhesion to the heel of the shoes, but for the reliability of fixing the heels and excluding the ingress of dirt and water into the gap, the glue will not be superfluous. Moment waterproof glue is well suited for this purpose.

After covering with a layer of glue, the heel is inserted with pins into the holes of the heel and, even without support, is hammered with a hammer. The protruding glue residues are smeared along the joint with your finger.

Spare heels have been installed on the women's shoes and now they look like new. The heels are enough to wear the shoes without repair for another summer season.

Despite the fact that there are many shoe repair shops, sometimes people prefer to do the repair themselves. This is due to the fact that the services of craftsmen are far from cheap, and even not always of high quality. Would you say it's easier to throw out your old shoes or boots? This is not true. Materials are inexpensive, and craftsmen who know how to repair shoes with their own hands can significantly extend their life.

Some people who are familiar with the basics of shoemaking make their own adhesive mix. For example, it perfectly glues acetone with nylon. Hand-made production of rubber glue is a complicated matter that requires significant temperatures, therefore it is easier to purchase a ready-made one.

Sometimes regular “Super Glue” is used to repair shoes at home. It is important that the shoes are absolutely clean and dry. The boot is glued, after preheating the composition with a construction hair dryer. And professional craftsmen do not like molecular glue, since it sets tightly, and it can be quite problematic to fix an accidental flaw.

Important! In workshops, professional solutions are used, such as “Nairit” or “Desmakol”. There are numerous formulation options with various additives. Professionals often use Rapid. However, it is unlikely to be suitable for home repairs, since it is sold exclusively in bulk.

In order to replace the heels on boots or shoes, use a special metal foot or some kind of fixation device.

• Use heels with a pin-nail.
• To make them sit stronger, the pin is lubricated with superglue.
• If the diameter of the nail does not match the heel sleeve, the pin is slightly sharpened or expanded by hitting with a hammer.
• After the heel is installed, it is grinded with a special stone or drill, exactly to the thickness of the heel.

This is a rather complicated procedure, and if you are not sure that you will follow it carefully, contact the wizard.

Installing a heel on a wide heel is much easier:

1. It can be attached to the “Super-glue” after heating it with a hair dryer.
2. If the heel is leather or wooden, use the "Nairit" composition, and it is applied to both surfaces. Then, after waiting a little, connect and fix both parts.

How carefully the shoe is glued depends on its appearance and how long it will last after repair. For all its seeming simplicity, it is difficult to properly glue the shoes in order to repair the sole. The workshop has special tools for this. However, in some cases, you can use the means at hand.

The parts are preheated and only then glued together. Already repaired shoes are kept in a warm room for 24 hours. Only in this case the sole will hold firmly enough.

You can also repair shoes with your own hands using “liquid leather”. This is useful if the upper is worn out or if you stumbled unsuccessfully.

If the skin is seriously torn, but first the product is glued from the inside with gauze or bandage. This is necessary so that the seam made with “liquid leather” does not come apart. The further procedure is as follows:

• Shoes are washed, dried, cleaned of lint and scraps of leather.
• The place of repair is degreased (any detergent will do).
• The composition is selected according to the shade.

Important! Sometimes, in order to achieve the desired color, several multi-colored compositions are mixed. In this case, you can use a special table.

• Apply “liquid skin” to the surface to be repaired using a paintbrush. If you press the surface with a piece of leather, you get a realistic relief.
• In case of inaccurate application or color mismatch, the composition can be removed within half an hour. Then they wait until the surface is dry, and the composition is reapplied.

back to content ↑