VIDEO
As you can see, shoe repair is not an easy business, but real.Good luck to you!
Historians claim that the first footwear appeared in Eurasia more than 30 thousand years ago. Shoes were made from animal skins, woven from plant leaves. Since then, the technology of making shoes has stepped forward, often artificial materials are used for its manufacture, which are not inferior to, and even surpass in wear resistance, leather.
But even the best quality shoes wear out heels over time, especially in women's boots and stiletto heels. Usually, not the entire surface of the heels is worn out, but only the back part. Therefore, it must be ensured that wear does not touch the base of the heel. If the base is worn out, it will have to be ground down to flatten the entire supporting surface, and this is unnecessary work and a decrease in the height of the heel.
Factory heels, as a rule, are made of plastic and they are fixed on the base of the heel of shoes with glue and pins inserted with an interference fit into the holes provided for them in the heel.
In order to change worn out heels, you must first remove the factory heels from them. The line of contact of the heels with the base of the heel is usually clearly visible. There is a light streak in the photo above.
To remove a worn-out heel, you need to put the shoes on one side on a hard surface and press with a boot knife, swinging it in the plane of the blade, to the place of the border of the base of the heel and the heel. You can use a simple knife or even a flat-blade screwdriver. In this case, it is better to remove the heel from the side of the sole so that possible small damages to the heel are not visible from the outside.
The heel was torn off the base of the heel of the shoes, and now it is not difficult to remove it. The heel is removed from the second shoe in the same way.
The photo shows a view of the removed factory-made heel from the side of the installation on the base of the heel of the shoes. Some factories provide extra heels for shoes. Check if there are spare heels in the box of these shoes. Then all repairs for replacing heels will be reduced to smearing the factory heels with glue, for example, "Moment" and installing it on the heel of shoes.
If there are no sapas heels, then you can search in stores. Finished heels are plastic and metal. The photo shows a metal powder heel for shoes with stiletto heels.
After removing the heels, the heel of shoes of approximately the same type as in the photo will open in front of you. There can be two, three or even four holes for pins for factory heels, depending on the area of the heel. But the repair technology is the same for all cases.
The best material for new heels is 5-6 mm polyurethane sheet with medium elasticity. It can be purchased at the ruins from the junk merchants. When choosing, you need to check the rigidity of the polyurethane. With strong pressure with your fingernail, it should bend slightly.
If there is no polyurethane, then rubber from car tires will work well. It also has high abrasion resistance. But getting a piece of flat rubber out of a round tire will take some tinkering.
To make a heel, it is necessary to apply its contour to a polyurethane or rubber plate. To do this, you need to attach the heel of the shoe to the workpiece and circle it around the perimeter with a marker or ballpoint pen.
The shape of the heels for the right and left shoes, as a rule, is different and this must not be forgotten when cutting out the workpiece. You can also circle the removed worn heel with a handle, but I prefer to circle the heel.
After applying the markings, the heels must be cut out. You can cut polyurethane with a sharp knife, wetting its blade, to improve glide, in water. But polyurethane is very difficult to cut with a knife, and I prefer to cut it with a jigsaw with a file on wood. Polyurethane is easy to saw with a jigsaw.
For cutting, the marked plate is clamped in a vice.As soon as a few millimeters have been cut, the plate is pulled by hand so that the jigsaw file is not clamped. Then the heel can be cut out pretty quickly. You need to cut along the outside of the line so that there is a margin. The protruding part of the heel due to the level of the heel of the shoes can then be grinded off on an emery column or cut off with a knife.
New heels are ready and you can start installing them on the heels of your shoes. But before that, the heels themselves must be prepared for the installation of heels.
Probably, looking at the photo above, you noticed the appearance of the heels after removing the heels. The plane is almost all in the holes and the question arises, how can we fix the new heels?
The answer is simple, you need to install wooden plugs in the holes for attaching standard plastic heels. The pin holes are usually 5 mm in diameter and 10-15 mm deep. The depth is measured first. If it is less than 10 mm, then it is necessary to drill the base of the heel to a depth of 15-20 mm with the help of a reduced.
If you drill with an electric drill, then you need to take into account that the drill can "pull" the soft material of the heel and the depth of the hole will turn out to be greater than necessary. I usually perform this operation manually, holding the drill in a special handle.
Plugs in heels for installing heels can be made from any piece of wood by sawing off the desired piece along the length and pricking it with a chock knife of the required diameter. You can also use ready-made, for example, wooden Japanese chopsticks that fit well in diameter.
It is enough to cut them into pieces of the required length. If the stick is too thick, then peel it off a little with a knife. Once the corks have been made, they can be hammered into the holes in the heels. The diameter of the plugs should ensure their tight fit, but you should not make plugs with a diameter much larger than the holes in the heel, since the heel can crack when plugging the plugs. The plugs should not protrude beyond the level of the heel surface, it is better to let them be slightly recessed.
The heels are ready for installation, wooden plugs are driven into the heels, and it's time to install the heels on the shoes.
To securely fasten the heel heels, I use a combined fastening, gluing, followed by nailing with lingering shoe nails, which experts call the Tex type TP. Shoe nails differ from ordinary nails in that they have flat edges, a diameter of 1-2 mm and a length of about 15 mm. The head of the boot nails is also of a special shape, small in diameter, but thick. Flat edges on the nail shank prevent it from spinning when walking, and the shape of the head acts as a heel area and increases its service life.
If there are no shoe nails, then you can use simple finishing nails to fix the heels, shortening them and giving the rod the shape of a shoe, grinding it off with a file or on an emery column. Finishing studs are commonly used to attach door trims.
To accurately hit the nails in the plugs hammered into the heels, it is advisable to first mark the driving points on them before gluing the heels. For this, the heel is applied to the heel, the polyurethane is slightly transparent and the corks are visible. It is enough just to put dots with a marker in the places where the traffic jams are visible.
If the plugs do not show through, if the heels are made of rubber, then you can attach the heel to the heel, shift it towards yourself and make one risk at the level of the plugs, then move the heel to the side and apply a second line. You will get a cross into which you will need to hammer a carnation. Since the diameter of the plug is 5 mm, this method will provide sufficient accuracy.
You can nail the heel with nails by attaching the heel directly to the heel, but this is inconvenient, since the heel can move and set inaccurately. Therefore, I prefer to first hammer all the nails into the heels so that the sharp ends appear on the opposite side of the heels.You need to hammer the carnations by placing the heel on the board so that the sharp ends of the nails do not flatten and become blunt.
For more reliable fastening of the heel, before nailing, the mating surfaces of the heel and heel are abundantly lubricated with waterproof Moment glue. After exposure to the recommended rules of use for 5 minutes, the heel is applied to the heel and pressed firmly.
There are special paws for repairing shoes with nails. But I get by with a large file with a wooden handle. I rest the file on a massive piece of iron, and the heel of my shoe rests on the handle.
As you can see in the photo above, the studs are hammered in, the heel is firmly installed on the heel, but the edges of the heel protrude somewhat beyond the contour of the heel. The protruding part of the heel must be removed by cutting off with a knife or on an emery column.
Shoes, with new heels installed with their own hands, look no worse than new ones. If desired, the heels on the front side can be painted with a waterproof marker or paint.
If, when buying women's shoes, you find a spare set of heels in the box, then the first repair by changing worn out heels will not be difficult. It is enough to remove the old ones and grease the surface of the heel with glue and hammer the pins of the new heel into the heel with a hammer.
But sometimes the difficulty arises that when removing worn heels, one of the pins breaks off and remains in the heel. It is impossible to remove the pin with pliers, as there is nothing to grab onto. The pins can be drilled with a drill, having previously sunk them into the heel. But in this case, the walls of the hole will most likely be worn away, and the new heels will not hold securely.
To remove the pin from the heel of shoes without damaging the walls of the holes, you must first drill a hole with a diameter of 2.5 mm in the center of the pin. If a self-tapping screw with a diameter of 3 mm is available, then you can screw it into the drilled hole and remove the pin. It would seem that instead of drilling a hole in the pin, you can immediately screw a small diameter self-tapping screw into it, and take it with pliers to remove the pin. But in this case, the self-tapping screw will distribute the pin to the sides, and it will hold on even more tightly in the heel and it will be impossible to remove the pin.
If there is no self-tapping screw with an outer diameter of 3 mm, but there is an M3 tap, then a thread must be cut with it in the drilled hole.
Next, a screw with an M3 thread with a length of at least 15 mm is screwed into the pin so that it passes through the entire length of the pin, and the head of the screw with a part of the thread remains protruding.
Now you can substitute an emphasis on the heel, for example, the shaft of a screwdriver, grasping the head of the screw with side cutters, and easily remove the stuck pin from the heel.
The pin has been safely removed from the heel of the shoes without damaging the holes, and now you can start installing spare heels.
It is not necessary to lubricate the pins of the heels with glue and the surface of their adhesion to the heel of the shoes, but for the reliability of fixing the heels and excluding the ingress of dirt and water into the gap, the glue will not be superfluous. Moment waterproof glue is well suited for this purpose.
After covering with a layer of glue, the heel is inserted with pins into the holes of the heel and, even without support, is hammered with a hammer. The protruding glue residues are smeared along the joint with your finger.
Spare heels have been installed on the women's shoes and now they look like new. The heels are enough to wear the shoes without repair for another summer season.
Now most of the heels come across plastic ones, which in 90% come to this state in less than a season, which means that the shoemakers will always have work. Specifically, using this example, I will tell you how to change heels on men's micropore shoes, as well as in the process of repairing and gluing the soles and some accessories.
We tear off the heels, and with them half of the heels fall off, then we heat the heels with a hairdryer to a state of almost melting and then tear off with side cutters we pull out the staples that attached the heels to the sole.
We take a piece of paper, put it in place of the heel and use a file or a rasp to make the contour of the heel (perpendicular to the perimeter of the sole, we easily remove a chamfer, thus we get an exact contour of the model).
We outline the resulting model on the heel micropore.
We cut it out with an allowance because it is difficult to cut it straight away straight away, but with an allowance, there will be much more to adapt it.
Using a very sharply sharpened semicircular chisel, select a recess for a better fit of the heel to the sole. The board on which the workpiece lies is pulled out, and a strip of polyurethane is nailed to the end of the table in order not to blunt the chisel and not to spoil the table.
It turns out like this from the front.
And like this from the side (the front should be lower than the back).
Here's something like that should happen.
We clean it on the boot, that is, we align the gluing place.
We smear with glue (used SAR30E) and let stand for 15 minutes.
Warm up with a hairdryer to a temperature of about 70 degrees.
We glue here it is not the time of pressure that is important, but the force of pressure.
We cut along the contour. Advice: if you have not worked with this before, then when trimming close to the sole, do not try to take it, from my own experience I know that more than one pair of heels was stabbed.
Yes, the node must be sharpened so that you can shave it, then the cut turns out to be smooth.
But now I use these allowances for filling the grids of the heels of the sole, both when replacing and simply during repairs (sort of like a waste-free production).
We process the excess with a rasp, a file and ready-made heels.
True, the heels turned out to be low, but this is due to the fact that they are cheaper at a price, and good dermontin boots are simply not profitable to put on such (here, at least the season will reach and there.)
And now we move on to further repairs of this pair. It will be required; glue SAR306, acetone, metal brushes, rags and a glue brush.
With a brush, we clean the place of gluing from dirt, degrease only the sole with acetone, and clean the top with only a brush with glue and keep it so that it does not stick right away, put a spacer between the surfaces.
I use a metal brush to touch up small areas.
It is made of a tube from an antenna and a "donor" brush for metal.
We nail the heel with nails having previously lifted the insert insole because the nails are bent from the inside, then glue the insole in place.
And here is the kind of ready-made pair that the season is exactly coming. And if you carry it with you in a package, then your great-grandchildren will have enough.
You can learn to repair shoes yourself, there is nothing complicated about it. Knowing how to make heels on women's or men's shoes, you can save a decent amount and spend it on more attractive things.
Heels are the most running part of the heel, it wears out very quickly. Having familiarized yourself with the technology of work, you can replace these elements at home.
It should be noted that heels often only wear out on one side. Therefore, you should always monitor the condition of your shoes. Otherwise, the wear will go further obliquely, and if it touches the base of the heel, then the heel will also have to be repaired. Typically, factory heels are plastic products that are fixed to the heel with special pins and glue. The worn-out elements must be removed.
The shoes are turned to one side and placed on a hard surface.
Using a sharp knife, loosen the heel.
Movement should be gentle so as not to damage the heel.
The same steps are repeated with the second shoe.
Manufacturers include a pair of factory spare heels with the shoe. If they are, then they only have to be greased with glue and fixed.
If there are no factory heels, you can go to a specialized store and pick up ready-made heels from any material there. Most popular materials:
Polyurethane sheet heels are very popular. You can buy it in the markets where they sell various old things. It is durable, resilient and of high quality. On polyurethane, you need to draw out both heels, circling each heel. You can cut out the elements with a knife, not forgetting to moisten it in water. But this is a laborious job. If you have a jigsaw, then this job can be done in a minute or two. You need to cut out the elements on the outside so that they do not accidentally turn out to be too small. The protruding part can then be cut with sandpaper.
How to fix polyurethane heels? Wooden plugs must be firmly installed in the holes from under the pins. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the heel may crack. To securely fix the heels, you need to use two types of fastening:
It is better to fix it with special boot studs, hammering them in at the location of the wooden plugs. The cloves must be hammered in so that their sharp ends appear slightly from the opposite side. Then set aside the blanks and coat with glue on the same side. After 5 minutes, the workpieces must be pressed tightly to the heels and nailed down. If desired, brown polyurethane can be painted over with any waterproof paint or a marker for the color of the shoes.
VIDEO
Not to say that I am a stingy man, but I am sorry to throw out the old thing and buy a new one, if the old one can still be worn out by fixing it a little. And with shoes, respectively, the same situation. My shoes wear out very quickly, the heels are mostly erased.
I scored at first, but no one sees inside. Then it became uncomfortable to wear.
It's a pity to throw it away, it looks like new (well, almost), but worn from the inside.
I decided to try to repair it myself, if I spoiled it, it would not be too bad.
- How to replace the worn fabric, I chose leatherette.
- Foam rubber (I also rubbed it to the base) It turns out 2 types, thin ((1-1.5 mm) is optional) for the spacer and thick 8-10mm for replacing the backdrop.
- Threads (preferably in the color of the product) with a needle.
- Scissors or a utility knife.
- Glue. I used glue for foam rubber, VB - 103, red, it costs about 250 rubles per liter, dries quickly enough, holds tight.
First, let's shred everything into pieces.
Foam rubber and a rag that has seen life.
We will prepare what, in fact, we will change them.
Cut out leatherette to size.
And foam rubber. I took a tighter, secondary, it seems called.
I glued thin foam rubber to leatherette, but this is not important, you can do without it. I also sewed threads on the sides, because they will not be covered.
We begin to sew the whole thing into place. Leatherette is less elastic than fabric, if you just start sewing in a circle, the joints will not converge (how else to call it?) Therefore, we will align the piece and attach it in several places with threads so that it does not go to distortion.
We are stitching. Sometimes it's hard, use a thimble or pliers as a last resort. If there was a sewing machine, it would be easier. But she's not there. My grandmother, her health, taught her how to use it. Probably wanted a granddaughter =)
We asked for it, we turn it out, we look at what a fucking fellow we are. But this is only half the battle.
We glue the foam rubber. First, you need to glue it with its end to the top of the backdrop and then lower it down and glue it. This will create a slight bevel and bulge to secure the heel. Something like that:
But this is also not necessary, you can simply glue it, the heel itself will take shape as you walk. But this is better.
Next, we glue the leatherette to the base, pulling it a little. Don't overdo it with glue.
And we sew where there were factory seams.
This is how it was and how it became. It took a whole evening for one sneaker and fingers worn out from the needle.
Thank you for your attention! I hope it will be useful to someone.
Especially for Pikabu and my followers, neighbor hater and aspiring Stasique renovator.
I share with you my experience in restoring heels on your favorite boots.
We cover up the damage from the teeth with epoxy.
We glue the leather to the heels, put them back and install new heels.
Anti-crisis measures
Wonderful! The first thought - did the woman really do it !? I looked in profile - relieved.
I admire! Me and a hammer are not compatible concepts, although they would be very useful in life.
Excellent work, I respect any alteration, you can always have time to throw it away. ..
and I would have thought the same. if not for you :)))) we are such craftsmen.
It's easier to stick it on than it looks. Just smooth it from the center and cut off the excess with a paper knife.
I need to tell my husband)) but she herself would not dare to do this
The same thing - I looked at the photo and thought that these were my heels on my favorite shoes
Thanks!
Great! Thanks!
The Clarks are good shoes, I would have saved this one too, since there was a problem.
And about what a girl can do and what she cannot. Once my husband "caught" me gluing epoxy soles on my boots. I made big eyes, what am I doing here, but when I heard: “Go, go boy from here” (c), I closed the door and did not interfere anymore)))) So who knows what depends on the family. My parents taught me everything, but his stepfathers only changed, so a "humanist" grew up
Maybe this is outdated (although the tradition cannot be wrong), but a woman should be able to do all women's work (sew, cook, heal), a man should be appropriate. I can do everything for women. I read somewhere that earlier in Russia, if a woman had to pick up a man's instrument - an ax, a hammer, etc. - she had to work with a needle, sew. For the energy to recover. And so today men are not men (some, not all fortunately), and there are women who ask to sew on a button. From personal experience.
Both the woman and the man must do what they can. Not every woman knows how to sew or knit, and not every man knows how to handle tools and electricity.
Yes, tell me about leather, where to get it. And where to buy heels?
The right MK! But, probably, not everyone can do this. Still, you need certain abilities and skills.
Thanks! Where could I get such leather!) I would definitely be able to, well, maybe I only entrusted the screws to my husband, I’m not friends with a screwdriver yet) I would repair my heels and not only! It is not for nothing that my mother's maiden name is Shvets, which is translated from Prussian as a shoemaker.
I have very similar heels. They also worn about our paths. Get this skin)))
The work is professional, but I would not have fooled so much with such defects, and my bootmaker would have made it easier too.
Tell me how to do it easier? The topic is very relevant, for me.
The easiest way. Without removing the heel, remove the old skin with a hair dryer. Make a piece of paper for a new covering, at the heel. And paste It in. Everything.
I would most likely paint over. Still, I do not hope to meet people who are looking at the very bottom of the heel, at work or on the street. If you are not lazy, cut the covering right under the upper part with a knife, scrape the old skin with the same knife and glue the new one. Cut a piece with a margin. First, glue over the outer (convex) side of the heel. Cut off the excess, leave an extra 2-3 mm on top, 5-7 mm on the side.Tuck all this up, stuff the excess into the seam with the back side of the same knife, wrap it from the sides by the ribs and glue it. Cut everything from the bottom end-to-end (if you do not change the heel.) Then cut the second part exactly along the inner (half) side and also glue it. Somewhere like that.
Thank you. Very relevant. I'll take a note.
Covering costs 420 rubles a meter is enough for three pairs do not mislead people.
Greetings friends. What a pity to throw away your old shoes, because they are your favorite and so comfortable, isn't it? Do not rush to do this, a scratched heel can be renewed and your favorite shoes can be brought back to life. Our topic today is DIY shoe restoration at home.
The easiest way to give your shoes a new look is to paint them. This option is suitable if the shoes have scuffs or scratches not only on the heel, but also on the toe or sole. First, decide whether it will be an evening version or shoes for every day. Depending on this, you can choose a color. For "evening shoes" it will be shiny and bright colors, and for everyday wear, pastel colors or classic black will be the best option.
You will need acrylic paint (it is not afraid of water), a brush and paper tape. Why Scotch Tape? It will come in handy if we do not dye the shoes all at once, but in parts. For example, let's keep the shoes in the base color, and paint the toe and heel. We glue the part of the shoes with masking tape, on which the paint should in no case get on. We carefully paint over the necessary places, paying special attention to all the grooves and cracks, and if necessary, we repeat the procedure. After 24 hours, the paint will dry, you can remove the tape and admire the result. Of course, you can dye your shoes completely.
To go out to a party, an old heel, or maybe the entire sole, can be decorated with sparkles. To do this, you need to purchase transparent glue and glitter (fortunately, their choice is now huge). Again, using scotch tape, separate the necessary parts, apply glue and generously sprinkle with sparkles. To keep the glitter from falling off while wearing, you can coat it with a layer of colorless nail polish. Rhinestones can be used instead of sequins. You need to glue them with super glue using tweezers. This heel looks impressive, like a diamond.
The latest innovation is the removable stiletto heel covers. This is an original solution. In order to bring it to life, you first need to make a pattern for the heel. This can be done with the help of everyone's favorite scotch tape (where without it). Glue over the heel and part of the heel, and then make a cut along the inside of the heel. The pattern is ready.
Now you need to cut the piece out of the fabric, not forgetting to leave a seam allowance. Sew - and you can try on. We put on a cover on the heel, and wrap the heel part inside the heel, grabbing the fabric with a couple of stitches. If you wish, you can decorate this piece with a fabric flower or even feathers, as suggested by famous designers. You can make a huge number of such covers. There is a place where fantasies can roam and you don't need to buy new shoes for every event.
You can update the platform in the same way as for shoes, but there are additional options.
Use denim to give your platform sandals a fresh look. This material has at least three advantages. Firstly, it is very durable and can be cleaned if necessary. Secondly, you do not need to spend money on denim, because after rummaging through your wardrobe, you can easily find a pair of unnecessary or worn jeans. Thirdly, jeans are always in fashion, so sandals with a "denim platform" will be relevant. First, we glue the fabric, and you can decorate the ugly cuts at the top and bottom of the platform with the help of a beautiful border, matched to a tone or contrasting color.
And if you don’t want to change anything in your favorite footwear, just its appearance has long been poor, you can use the wonderful invention “liquid leather”. Just match the color you want and update your favorite shoes. You can read more about how to work with liquid leather here: Repairing Leather Products Using Liquid Leather.
Video (click to play).
So, with some creativity and a little effort, you can show off in brand new shoes.
