Since, by the nature of their activity, truck drivers often need to travel long distances, Kamaz repairs have to be done on their own. Of course, on the way, it is impossible to carry out a full truck repair, since it is impossible to have all the parts necessary for this on hand. But, despite this, the driver must be able to make the correct diagnosis and troubleshoot in order to safely get to the service.
The main way to eliminate breakdowns is timely prevention. Moreover, for trucks, maintenance is carried out in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturer. In the initial period of operation, that is, the mileage is up to 1000 km, it is necessary to follow the recommendations given by the manufacturer for this period. This includes driving at a speed not exceeding 50 km / h, and the load on the car should not exceed 75% of the nominal. A repair manual is included with each machine.
The purpose of the repair is to prevent serious damage. This is facilitated by measures to replace working fluids. This must be done in a timely manner. All lubricants and coolants must comply with the manufacturer's recommendations.
It is necessary to immediately eliminate leaks in the cooling system and faulty valves. If this is not done in time, it can lead to breakdowns of the liquid pump.
If the warning lamp for the pressure in the lubrication system has ignited, then you should not continue driving until the breakdown has been completely repaired.
To avoid the appearance of cracks in the mounting of the cylinder heads, it is necessary to make good insulation of the bolt holes so that dirt and liquids do not get inside.
Truck repairs may require welding.In order to start performing such work, it is necessary to disconnect the battery, and also remove the positive contact from the generator.
If you find that there is a leak in the cooling system, then you can fill it with water. But this will not fix the problem, and may only be a temporary solution. In this condition, the car can drive to the place of repair.
If the truck is driving on a road that is covered with liquid mud, the radiator should be flushed with water from time to time. In order to do this, the cab must be raised. It is important that no water gets onto the generator.
If the car does not run the engine and you need to tow it, then you need to remove the propeller shaft. This will help prevent damage to the transmission.
In order to understand the amount of work to be done in connection with the breakdown of KAMAZ, it is necessary to understand the nature of the breakdowns themselves, which may be.
During vehicle operation, it is required from time to time to check the tightness of the riveted joints of the frame by tapping on.
In our country there are not only impassable roads, but also a harsh climate, which is characterized by a large amount of precipitation, low temperatures,.
Failures that happen from time to time can occur for various reasons. However, in the case of a long service life, usually 60%.
Despite the fact that a modern car is the result of the work of programmers along with the rise of engineering, it is bold to open the hood with a nut.
Since that time, practically nothing has changed, and KamAZ, as it was popular, has remained. The only difference is that old car models have been replaced by new, more modern and improved vehicles. But be that as it may, all equipment sooner or later fails, and KamAZ is no exception. Therefore, the repair of this equipment is only a matter of time.
Since truck drivers often travel long distances, they often have to repair the vehicle themselves. Naturally, we are not talking about carrying out a full-fledged repair, since the overhaul of KamAZ provides for the availability of certain tools and spare parts. And the driver is not able to carry all this with him, and there is no need. The essence of the repair is to eliminate minor breakdowns that impede the movement of the machine to the nearest service point.
The main way to prevent breakdowns is prevention. This is especially true when it comes to a KamAZ car. The nuance lies in the fact that the manufacturing plant has its own recommendations for the operation of the vehicle. Such recommendations must be adhered to during the first test period, which is 1 thousand km. Generally speaking, the recommendations relate to the speeding and overloading of the vehicle. Complete with the car comes the manual "KamAZ - do-it-yourself repair."
The main purpose of the repair is to prevent more complex breakdowns. The main preventive work includes the periodic replacement of all fluids (as required by the rules for operating a car). All liquids, especially cooling and lubricating fluids, must be selected in accordance with all the rules and requirements. Do not add inappropriate fluid to the vehicle.
If there is a leak in the cooling system, problems with gaskets and valves, then they must be eliminated immediately. If the breakdown was not repaired after detection, then it can lead to more serious problems. Individually, the unit or fluid pump may fail.
There are a number of recommendations that address some vehicle-related malfunctions. So what are these recommendations:
Thanks to such advice and preventive work, you can postpone car repairs for a long time.
VIDEO
ZIL-131 is a large army truck that can lift up to five tons of cargo. The car has an eight-cylinder carburetor engine with 150 hp. All 4 wheels of ZIL are leading. A full description of the car can be found in the owner's manual, which often goes.
ZIL-130 is a car produced in those distant times when gasoline was inexpensive, in connection with which a version appears that this reason served as the starting point for not counting fuel. The fuel consumption of the ZIL-130 is approximately 31 liters per 100.
Having decided to change the look of your car, you need to decide which type of tuning you can master yourself, and which is better to entrust to a specialist. Having studied several types, we will try to make tuning KamAZ with our own hands. Let's try to change some of the car parameters. This is achieved in 3 ways of tuning: external; internal; deep. ...
The history of the creation of KamAZ begins in the middle of the last century. On the ZIL car, the development of a prototype of the future KamAZ was carried out, through partial changes in the engine of the car. And by 1974, the first KamAZ-5320 was created, and mass production was launched in 1976. ...
At one time, the ZIL-130 car was considered one of the most common on the roads of the former USSR. And today, the owners of these trucks are in no hurry to get rid of them and hand them over to scrap metal, take care of them, and, if necessary, make repairs.
Before operating the car, you must carefully study this manual and further follow the recommendations set out in it.
The new car must be registered. This provides technical advice on the operation and maintenance of the vehicle, supply of spare parts and warranty service. A service book is attached to each vehicle.
To ensure the perfect operation of the vehicle, only factory-made spare parts should be used. The installation of various equipment and mechanisms on a car and its chassis should be agreed with the developer and holder of design documentation - with the Directorate for the development and implementation of new developments of KamAZ. Otherwise, the vehicle is not subject to warranty service.
For the initial period of operation of a new car, a mileage of 1000 km is set, during which it is necessary to comply with the requirements specified in section “6. Car operation ”.
When operating a car, it is necessary to use brands of fuel, lubricants and operating materials in accordance with this manual.
Faulty valves and tank plug gaskets, leaks in the cooling system connections and insufficient coolant level lead to cavitation destruction of the liquid pump and block.
When the warning lamp of an emergency pressure drop in the lubrication system of the engine comes on, stop the engine, find and eliminate the malfunction.
Monitor the temperature of the fluid in the engine cooling system: when the emergency fluid overheating indicator comes on, stop the engine, find and eliminate the malfunction.
Operation with a leaky intake manifold will result in premature engine failure. At each TO-2, check the integrity of the rubber pipes, air ducts and the reliability of the connections, eliminate the leakage of the path.
When transporting bulk, dusty goods in an open platform, increased dustiness of the ambient air or the presence of a tarpaulin on the platform, lift the air intake hood using the attachment supplied with the vehicle.
To prevent the occurrence of cracks in the bosses for the cylinder head bolts, it is necessary to protect the threaded holes for the bolts from the ingress of liquid or dirt when disassembling the engine, and especially before installing the cylinder heads.
When carrying out electric welding work on the car, the batteries must be disconnected with a remote switch and the wires must be removed from the “+” terminals of the generator and B, O of the brush holder.
The ground wire of the welding machine must be connected in the immediate vicinity of the weld.
If there is a dent more than 2 mm deep on the reaction rod pipe, cracks or bent over 3 mm along the entire length, the reaction rod must be replaced.
When loading, make sure that the load is evenly distributed on the platform, not overloading its front.
In the event of a problem on the road associated with a coolant leak, you can briefly use water in the cooling system, but only for the duration of the journey to the place where the malfunction can be eliminated.
When driving for a long time on muddy roads (with liquid mud), periodically rinse the radiator surface with water with sufficient pressure from a hose. To do this, raise the cab and direct the water jet towards the radiator from the engine side. Do not spill water directly onto the generator.
It is strictly forbidden to tow a car with an inoperative engine without removing the intermediate propeller shaft in order to avoid scuffing the bearings of the gears of the gearbox output shaft.
Use the fuel equipment provided for the design of this model on the engine.
The plant reserves the right to further improve the design of the vehicle without prior warning to consumers.
Security measures
All faults found during the inspection of the car must be eliminated.
Do not lubricate or clean a running engine.
If diesel fuel ignites, cover the flame with earth, sand or cover it with felt or tarpaulin, use a fire extinguisher. It is strictly forbidden to flood burning fuel with water.
Carefully open the expansion tank cap on an overheated engine to avoid scalding your hands with steam. Coolant vapors are explosive.
When braking with the auxiliary braking system, do not change gears in the gearbox.
Do not turn off the engine while coasting, as this turns off the brake pneumatic compressor and the power steering.
Remove the front supports only after removing the cab. To remove the lower and upper brackets, unscrew the bolts securing them to the frame and to the cross member of the cab floor. The upper brackets are fixed in the floor to floating plates with threaded holes, which, if necessary, can be replaced from the inside of the cab through the oval holes in the floor or through the hole for the steering column by bending the floor beam inserts that fix them.
When installing the lower brackets, make sure that the alignment of the holes of both brackets is preserved, and finally tighten the bolts for fastening the upper brackets after installing them in the lower brackets and connecting them with their axles, but while the cab is still suspended and the front supports are not loaded with its weight.
Removal and installation of doors. To remove the door, unpin the pin connecting the door opening limiter to the bracket on the inner door panel, then remove the bolts securing the door hinges to the front cab pillar.
Install the doors with the installed lock and door lock striker. Before tightening the bolts securing the hinges to the rack, lock the lock to the second detent position. To avoid friction between the wedge of the lock and the latch, first insert a 1-thick washer into the groove of the latch. 1.5 mm (preferably polyethylene), which should be removed after tightening the door hinge bolts. In this case, the gap between the door and the door opening along the entire opening is kept constant (6.10 mm).
Removing the hatch cover of the inner door panel. In order to provide access to the door mechanisms, as well as the dismantling of the lock mechanisms, window regulator, glass, you must first remove the hatch cover of the inner door panel.
To do this, remove the inner handles of the door lock and window regulator, for which press the plastic socket under the handle and remove the handle securing pin. Then remove the screws securing the door hatch cover and remove the cover.
Remove the door lock through the hatch of the inner door panel in the following order:
remove the hatch cover;
To remove the lock striker, remove the screws securing it to the rear post of the cab sidewall.
In the event of a malfunction of the outside door handle lock button, the button can be removed after removing the outside handle. To remove the outer handle, unscrew the two screws through the hatch of the inner door panel, securing it from the side of the inner door panel. Remember to install the button seal when installing the button.
Remove the window regulator through the hatch of the inner door panel in the following order:
remove the hatch cover;
use the window regulator handle to move the glass to such a position in which the lowering glass holder will be located against the hatch;
remove the clamping bar through the hatch by unscrewing the fastening bolts;
remove the screws securing the power window;
take out the window regulator through the sunroof.
When assembling the window regulator, lubricate all rubbing surfaces with Litol-24 grease.
Remove the sliding door glass in the following order:
remove the door hatch cover;
remove the window regulator;
unscrew the screws of the removable holder for the glass seal (under the door pocket) and disengage the removable holder from the main holder, then disconnect it from the door seal and take it out through the hatch;
remove the rubber buffer of the lower glass stop through the hatch;
lower the glass with your hands, tilt and move it forward so that it stands opposite the hatch;
remove the glass through the hatch.
Adjustment and removal of the rotary window. The glass of the swivel window holds the spring holder of the lower axis in any position, even with a strong headwind. The ease of turning the window and the reliability of its fixation can be adjusted by tightening the holder screw, for which remove the plastic plug of the hole under the lower axis of the window and tighten or loosen the holder adjusting screw with a screwdriver.
To remove the glass of the window, unscrew the holder screw and the screws securing the upper axis of the shape point. Then, moving the window upward, remove the lower axis from the holder and seal of the window
Carry out the removal and installation of windshields and rear windows in the same way in the following order:
remove the wiper arms;
remove the rubber seal of the middle pillar of the window;
remove the metal cladding from the joint of the seal edging and the seal edging around the entire perimeter;
pressing with your hands on the upper corners of the glass from the cab, remove the seal from the flange of the opening and, bending the edge of the seal, remove the glass and the seal;
clean the sealant from the paste.
lubricate the grooves of the seal with fresh paste;
bending the edge of the seal, insert glass into the seal (it is convenient to do this by placing the seal face up on the table);
put the edging of the seal so that its joint is at the bottom of the window, and put a metal lining on the joint of the edging;
insert the rubber lock of the window B-pillar seal;
insert a strong twine or cord into the groove (designed to connect the seal with the flange of the window opening) so that the ends are at the bottom of the seal;
install the glasses together with the sealant in the opening of the wind window, pressing them from the outside to the flange;
holding one end of the twine, pull smoothly, without jerks, by the other end, thus pulling the seal valve through the flange of the window opening. To facilitate this operation, you can use a screwdriver;
clean the glass and the window opening from excess paste;
install the wiper arms.
When using a seal made of an open profile, it is easier to install glass by first installing the seal in the opening, and then, bending the edges of the seal, first insert one glass from the outside, then another glass (it is easier to do this by inserting the glasses from the middle to the edges), and then refuel B-pillar profile. Then insert the B-pillar itself, the edging of the gasket with lining and the B-pillar lock.
To improve the sealing of the glass, after installation, a rubber adhesive can be introduced between the edge of the seal and the glass in the lower half of the window contour.
Install the roof ventilation hatch cover in the following order:
place the ventilation hatch cover on top of the roof opening;
from the inside or outside, lift the front part of the cover and insert the levers into the lugs of the brackets, with a movable roller in the lugs of the manhole cover brackets, and then lower the manhole cover;
from the outside, lift the rear of the sunroof cover forward, and use a screwdriver to insert the rear levers.
If a defect occurs - the levers of the roof ventilation hatch cover fall out - eliminate the deformation of the brackets 8, against which the rollers of the hatch cover levers rest.
To remove the heater fans, unscrew the screws securing the fan casing, disconnect the leads of the electric motor. Then remove the screws securing the rubber-metal flange of the electric motor to the fan volute and remove the electric motor with the fan impeller. Remove the screw securing the fan impeller to the motor shaft and remove the impeller.
When installing, connect the motor leads to the wires so that the left fan impeller rotates clockwise and the right fan impeller rotates counterclockwise as viewed from the cab.To do this, at the left fan motor, connect the black lead to the green wire from the wire harness, and the red lead of the electric motor to the ground wire. For the right fan motor, the opposite is true: the red terminal with the green wire of the bundle, and the black terminal with the ground wire.
When using non-reversible electric motors ME 226, it is necessary to distinguish between electric motors of right and left rotation, and an electric motor of left rotation ME 226V must be installed on the left fan, and an electric motor of right rotation ME 226K must be installed on the right fan. In this case, connect the green wire from the bundle of wires to the plug on the motor cover, parallel to the plane of the cover, and the ground wire to the plug parallel to the axis of rotation of the motor.
To remove the heater drive, remove the levers of the crane and control levers by unscrewing the screws and their fasteners, unscrew the screws securing the drive to the panel under the dashboard, remove the scale and the drive. Unscrew the screws of the clamps of the sheaths of the cable, unpin and remove the cables of the drives. To remove the levers, unscrew the levers axle retaining nut. When assembling the actuator, tighten the nut on the shaft of the actuator handles so as to ensure easy movement of the handles, and secure it with a cotter pin. Lubricate rubbing parts before assembly.
Remove the seats in the following order:
overturn the cab;
remove the bottom thermal insulation of the floor;
unscrew the nuts securing the seats under the cab floor (four nuts each for the driver's and middle passenger's seats and six nuts for the outer passenger's seat);
lower the cab and remove the seats.
When installing, secure the seats with self-locking nuts only. Lubricate all friction surfaces of seat hinges, torsion bars, movement mechanisms during assembly with Litol-24 grease.
remove the hook for clothes, hinges for the curtain of the berth, the ceiling of the berth;
use a screwdriver to remove the sidewall trim fastening clips;
remove the upper, rear and lower side trims;
remove the upper part of the rear upholstery (after removing the rear window glass seals, first aid kit);
remove the roof bar around the ventilation hatch by removing your fingers and paper clips;
remove the cabin lighting shade;
remove the lining of the seat belts of the berth and the guide of the curtain of the berth;
take out the fastening clips of the rear part of the headliner and remove it;
remove the clips securing the front of the headliner and, pushing it back, remove it;
remove, taking out the fastening clips, the upholstery of the lower part of the tailgate (made of artificial leather with artificial felt);
remove the side front thermal insulation by removing the plastic clips of their fastening, and then both thermal insulation of the front, removing the rubber clips of their fastening.
The seats must be removed to remove the upholstery and floor insulation.
Install the cab upholstery in the reverse order, that is, first the thermal insulation of the front panel, then the sidewalls, first fix the front part of the roof lining, then the rear, then the rear upholstery, then the sidewalls.
It is better to install rubber clips using a special frame or a rod inserted into the hole of the clip and pulling it out when inserted into the hole.
To remove the instrument panel, open the instrument panel by unscrewing the two screws in its upper part, the switch panel and disconnect all instruments and switches from the wires, then remove the bolts securing the fuse bracket (in the middle of the instrument panel). After that, bend the brackets securing the bundle of wires on the lower part of the dashboard and remove the bundle together with the fuse holder from the instrument panel. Remove the hoses from the windscreen blower nozzles and the door windscreen deflectors (it is more convenient to remove these hoses from the air distributor pipes). Remove the bolts securing the lower shields with rods for the cab heater, radiator louvers, etc.
Remove the bolts securing the instrument panel to the sidewalls, to the two side gussets, to the steering column bracket. Unscrew the bolts securing the instrument panel to the front panel (through the openings of the instrument panel, switch panel, glove box, and if the box is not removed, then from below, from under the instrument panel) and remove the instrument panel.
To remove the glove box, open the door, unscrew the screws securing the limiter to the door, the screws securing the box to the lower wall of the dashboard and to the racks (from the inside of the box) or unscrew the mountings of the racks to the dashboard (if you need to remove the racks): on the left, after opening the switch panel, unscrew two screws, and on the right - from below from under the dashboard - two bolts. Take the drawer out and unscrew the door hinges. The spacer between the front and rear of the front fenders can be broken. In this case, chop off or break off the remnants of the spacer, drill a through hole in both parts of the wing and, installing a metal or plastic spacer with a bolt hole between them, tighten both parts of the wing with a bolt with a self-locking nut.
As promised at the very beginning - a video about repairing a Kamaz cab with your own hands: Welding work.
VIDEO
Video (click to play).
As always, you can ask your questions on our Kamaz-forum, where competent and experienced drivers will answer you.
