Do-it-yourself polaris carbon heater repair

In detail: do-it-yourself polaris carbon heater repair from a real master for my.housecope.com.

It's nice to run barefoot on the floor, walk around the apartment in a half-naked form. But during the period when the heating season has not yet begun, and outside the window there are autumn frosts, you have to wrap yourself in 100 clothes and cringe at electrical or oil appliances. Recently, however, they have been replaced by carbon heaters. They differ in environmental friendliness, safety and more economical energy consumption. They do not burn oxygen and do not emit unpleasant odors, they work absolutely silently and warm up much faster.

The description of the heating carbon element boils down to the following: it consists of a body, a reflector, a mesh that protects (from blows and curious children's fingers) a mesh, vacuum quartz tubes with carbon threads inside. Connected to electricity, they begin to emit infrared waves that heat all surfaces in their path at a distance of 3-4 m.

Carbon is a carbon fiber reinforced plastic that has a much higher conductivity than metal. According to reviews, a carbon electric home heater heats up 5 times faster than an electric one.

Aggregates are distinguished by the installation method:

They also differ in power, but the numbers say little to many, therefore, the parameters usually indicate what area the devices are designed for: 10, 15 or 20 m2. The carbon wall heater is popular because it takes up little space, has fewer obstructions and warms up more space.

The floor-standing one is convenient in that it does not require special installation, it can be moved to any place. He has the widest price range from 1,600 to 12,000 rubles. Since there are:

Small models designed to warm the legs of one person. Suitable for the smallest or the coldest family members. Are inexpensive.
There are powerful heaters on a high, beautiful design stand. They have a wider spectrum of action and are just as effective as wall-mounted counterparts.

Video (click to play).

A carbon ceiling heater can successfully replace underfloor heating, as it heats the flooring and all objects standing on it, and then gives off heat to the room. It rises, and cold air goes down, which heats up again. Thus, healthy circulation is ensured in the apartment.

Famous budget manufacturers and brands

The first infrared emitter was patented in Japan. The well-known Zenet NS-900 B model quickly gained popularity, as it could replace an oil heater with a power of 1,800 W, covering an area of \ u200b \ u200bup to 30 m2. Now it is a little outdated, yielding to many improved devices. But you can still buy an infrared carbon heater Zenet NS-900 B at a price of 25 00 rubles.

Over time, the previous model was successfully replaced by the Mega Max MH 9100 R of the domestic manufacturer. It has more power, which, if necessary, can be reduced, the rotation angle is increased to 120 °, and was 70 °. Weight reduced from 6 to 2 kg. The price of Mega Max MH 9100 R is from 3 400 rubles.

The most inexpensive model from the Chinese manufacturer is Polaris PKSH 0508 H. It has a slightly lower power than the previous ones, but it will quickly warm up in bad weather or on the market in a stall. The cost of the heater Polaris PKSH 0508 H - from 1,600 rubles.

Since the devices only heat objects, and not the air, the heat "does not go away" anywhere, and therefore they can be used even outdoors or in unheated rooms:

for balconies and terraces;
open areas of the cafe;
workshops and warehouses;
stalls in the market.

The emitter heats up not only any objects, but also the human body by 2-3 cm, thereby improving blood flow in nearby tissues, giving a therapeutic effect.

It turns out that heating with this device is even useful, especially for those who suffer from arthritis and rheumatism.

The developers are constantly improving the models - for the sophisticated public, a carbon floor infrared heater with a timer was invented. It does not need to be turned off immediately when going to bed. The configured program will automatically turn it off after an hour, so you can safely fall asleep in a warm place.

Most products are rotatable so they can cover a large heating area. They also have a built-in switch that will trip in the event of overheating or rollover. Customers especially like remote control heaters.

Read also: DIY solaris generator repair

The emitter cannot heat through objects. This means that if someone covered the heat source, the rest will freeze. To prevent this from happening, it is better to use ceiling or wall devices - they have more opportunities to warm up the entire room.

The cost depends on the purpose, power, brand, number of additional functions. When buying, you should pay attention to the technical characteristics of an infrared carbon heater:

power;
heating area;
degree of rotation;
mains voltage;
weight, dimensions;
protection;
additional features;
service life and guarantee.

Be sure to ask a consultant to check the device. Conduct an external inspection and make sure that there are no defects such as cracks, dents on the reflector and the case, check if the switches, the remote control are working, the wire is well connected, and so on.

First of all, you should choose a heater depending on the purpose:

to warm your feet in front of the computer, a floor-standing device with a power of 800 W is enough;
for a small room, but for all family members, it is better to take a wall model;
in cases where the room is very cold, despite the central heating, it is better to pay attention to the ceiling;
in the apartment, where the designer renovation has been made in an exquisite style, floor models in the form of bizarre sculptures will look harmonious.

What to do in the event of a breakdown

If the device is expensive and the warranty period has not expired, it is better to contact the service center, since if you cannot repair the carbon heater with your own hands, then you will then be denied free setup. You can try to disassemble the emitter and twist, fix the contacts. As a rule, it stops working for this very reason, since carbon fiber, unlike metal, does not burn out.

The 800W carbon fiber heater saves as an additional heating.

He worked for me on a large area, but for spot heating. It's like when you stand near him that warmth.

Has two protections. One from overheating and the other from falling. That is, if you suddenly knocked it over, it automatically turns off. There are two more heating modes: 800W or 400W, plus it has a slight translational rotation. But it is convenient to use these functions only from the remote control and it is very inconvenient without the control panel, since all the buttons are located at the bottom of the heater.
The photo shows the fall protection button.

At one point, it just stopped heating. Everything worked except the spiral. It was decided to disassemble and look for the reason there. With a screwdriver, I unscrewed all the screws on the back wall. The sequence for removing the top cover, see the photo below.

Then you need to remove the back cover of the heater. And now the filling of the heater is exposed in front of us.

ATTENTION. BEFORE DISASSEMBLING, ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE APPLIANCE FROM THE 220V MAINS.

We visually inspect everything.

I checked the heating element with an ommer. Resistance 87 Ohm. My most important suspicion was not confirmed.

When inspecting the control board, I found a burnt resistance. There was nothing to change and decided to do everything directly, without any electronics.

Rang out the power wires and connected directly to the heating element, but. the miracle did not happen.I had to find out the reason further. The overheating sensor remained untested in this chain. I cut it out and again connected everything directly and now everything worked.

It remains to connect everything tightly and insulate. It was decided to start at half power (by choosing the appropriate wire) because now the device is without an overheating sensor. The drop protection design remains operational.

And here is the hero of our celebration.

We assemble in the reverse order and continue to enjoy the warmth 🙂

Infrared heaters have gained immense popularity among the population due to their economy. But what if the device breaks down? Let's consider how you can repair an infrared heater yourself.

Regardless of the manufacturer and model, the IR heater consists of the following main parts:

a metal case covered with a layer of heat-resistant enamel;
heating element (heating element);
a radiating plate made of aluminum and covered with a layer of thermal insulation;
mounting (if the selected model is intended for mounting to a wall or ceiling).

IR heater device

The principle of operation is as follows: electrical energy is converted into heat rays, which heats all objects that meet in the path of infrared radiation. And the heated objects then share the heat with the air space (for more details, see the article on the principle of operation of a heater with infrared radiation).

A room heated by an IR heater is capable of retaining heat for a long time, since infrared rays affect the human body and nearby objects, and not the air itself.

The principle of operation of the IR heater

Before starting the inspection and repair of the heater, do not forget to disconnect it from the power supply by pulling the plug from the mains. To understand how to carry out repairs, the first step is to find out the cause of the breakdown.

If the IR heater suddenly stops functioning, and the lamp does not light up on the power indicator, then first you need to check voltage in the socket. Perhaps due to a voltage drop, the circuit breaker at the wiring entrance to the house was activated, thereby turning off the electricity. Also, the contact at the point of connecting the device to the outlet could be broken, or the outlet itself could be faulty. It also happens that the heater is simply overheated, and the shutdown is the work of its protection systems.

If all checks did not lead to the desired result, and the IR heater still does not work, then it is necessary to undertake repairs.Repair should begin with an external inspection of the IR heater to identify visible faults. First of all, inspect the power plug, it should not be damaged or cracked. The pins of the plug of a serviceable device do not have blackening and carbon deposits, they are firmly fixed in the body and do not dangle. The conductive cord must also be free of any signs of damage. Particular attention should be paid to the area where the wire comes out of the plug body - here it is often frayed.It is also necessary to make a visual heater body inspection (through the mesh) and make sure there are no burnt or broken wires and make sure the heating element is intact. Image - Do-it-yourself polaris carbon heater repair

The most common breakdowns of IR heaters are failure of the heating element and thermostat. Malfunctions are eliminated by replacing burnt-out parts. In order to choose the right part correctly, you need to remove it, rewrite the number and order it on the Internet, or contact the repair service.

A burned-out lamp (in most cases looks like a tube, length - 30 cm, diameter - 10 mm) of the heating element can be replaced by yourself. Replacement work begins with disconnecting the device from the mains. Then, in the area of the heater where the temperature regulator is located, the side panel is removed, behind which is the power connector to the lamp. Turn it off, pick up the phone. Lamps differ from each other only in power and size, but they are powered in a standard manner - from 220 V... Therefore, there should be no difficulties with the selection. Reassembly after replacing the lamp is carried out in the reverse order.

In the event that the thermostat has burned out, the simplest solution would be to closure, the regulation will be carried out through a 2 kW triac regulator. This will save time searching for and buying a part. If there is a break in the wires, it is necessary to avoid soldering them: under the influence of high temperature, the solder can melt. It is much more efficient and safer to use a screw connection of wires. You may also find useful information about connecting a thermostat.It was a lovely autumn evening. It was 6 degrees outside. I decided to turn on my favorite heater. But he didn't warm. What to do? swell from the cold? No! I decided to fix it! This is not the first time I have done this for this more or less beautiful and well-ordered photos. This article is about how to fix a heater.Assuming the thermostat is OK. I decided to repair the spiral, which most likely burned out and broke. Such heaters are assembled in an aluminum profile, so they are very easy to disassemble.To begin with, he unscrewed the only screw on the cover, with some effort he bent its front part.The lid did not come off, took out a metal plug, noticed a white self-tapping screw.Unscrewed it. The plastic cover was easily removed. Accessing the heater.He took off the mesh. It is simply inserted into the profile. As a result, it was possible not to take it off, but he wiped off the reflector.

Opened the heater mount by unscrewing the screw. I also unscrewed the nut, disconnected the power wire.A metal sleeve was once glued to a glass bulb. But the glue had already crumbled, the sleeve was removed from the glass tube with ease.Loose the nut that held the heater contact, got a bunch of parts.In my case, the coil burned out right next to the contact. The contact is a rod on one side with a thread, and on the other side with a hole into which one end of the spiral was inserted and pressed. The metal is very hard, I could not unbend it with pliers. Therefore, I broke off the rest of the spiral. With a hammer, I flattened the end of the contact as much as possible. I drilled a 3mm hole in it. I made a loop at the end of the spiral.I attached the spiral loop to the contact with a screw and an M3 nut.Collected the whole thing back in the reverse order.Plugged the heater into a power outlet. And it all worked. I'm hot and happy! I hope you will be happy when you get your burned out heater repaired. Image - Do-it-yourself polaris carbon heater repair

Greetings to all. Who knows if you can use a 2 kW coil for a 1.8 kW heater? It's just that in the nearest market only 1.5 / 2 / 2.5 / 3 kW are sold, and those that I need are only on the network and there is an order there for at least 3-5 pieces.

It is possible, but there will be an overload of the wiring, of course it is better to pick it up clearly in the face value.

So can the wiring burn out?)

The glow will be lower if there is a voltage regulator. If not, then the load on the wiring will be higher, but not by much, it should not burn.

Thank you. I have already tested. It seems that everything is normal, only the case heats up a little more and it began to give more heat. Sniffing the whole evening, it doesn't seem to smell of burnt plastic.

please tell me if the glass tube on the electric fireplace 4m coal breaks. it won't work anymore. can it be replaced with something ?? the fireplace fell and the pipe burst in half.

Well, thanks for the photo))
I bought a used heater the day before yesterday. I personally do not care how and what it emits. But much better than the Soviet heater, almost of the same type - a spiral inside a glass tube. And I sent the oil cooler in 11 sections into the package.
But there was a question about buying another cheap heater. I found it by the action, but according to reviews they write that it breaks down quickly.
But with your description of the repair of the heating element, I will buy a cheap heater without fear of breakage.

My heater went out of order very effectively. At first, it crunched loudly and the heating in a spiral went unevenly - in places orange, in places bright yellow. Then a few white flashes and it went out. He unscrewed it as shown here and managed to pour out a handful of slag from the tube.Really soldered into the slag. Now, along the way, you have to untwist it all and find a suitable replacement spiral. All the same, the case is normal, the thermostat seems to be intact, the tube is also, and the spiral is not so expensive. Does it make sense to bother?

Isn't there a vacuum inside the tube?

The vacuum in the tube is made for explosion-proof design, and even then not for everyone.

And what does he do on the ceiling - after all, warm air is lighter than cold air, or do you have the most?

Google my friend! it is infrared. That is, it heats what it shines on, and the air remains cold! that's why they are hung on ceilings and on stands high by a meter or more.

A successful renovation is good! But I note that the spirals can be different, more often they come across just round and wound on a keromic rod, burn more often in the middle, in which case you need to pull the break point and twist the two ends with a small twist, you cannot cool off large tails, bite off and break them off as the resistance will decrease and the spiral will burn again.

Something is not clear, the less the twist, the greater the contact resistance, which means that the most heat will be generated in this place! Or what ends are we talking about?

He means that if you reduce the length of the wire, then it will heat up more. Therefore, the twists should be made as short as possible, but nevertheless with good contact.

And there is! I apologize for writing incomprehensibly ...

Yes, here I also thought that it was more cunning, but it looks like it is. I got excited with the first message))).

Yes Yes. In fact, an ordinary old heater with a spiral is infrared :))) There are simply different elements for generating infrared radiation. This is the cheapest option.

So ... I am not in the subject, "spiral" crumpled? She's in the tube and that's it? I thought that everything is somehow more cunning….

The spiral is not quite crumpled. This can be described as how the wire was wound on a flat frame and additionally twisted, and it turned out that each square turn is slightly displaced relative to the previous one along the entire length of the heater.

Oh, yes, and there is a tube made of heat-resistant quartz glass.

Although .... probably this one can also be called infrared)))).

You can with confidence. In fact, even a light bulb can be called an IR heater, but with a low efficiency)))

Everything is fine, only this is not an infrared heater, but an ordinary electric heater in which the spiral is heated. Infrared heaters have a different principle of operation. Here - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1520/tekhnika-dlya-doma/57-kak-vybrat-infrakrasnye-obogrevateli.html#i1 well written about them.

And the spiral is heated, isn't it in the infrared range?

The spiral heats up in the temperature range and emits heat in the infrared range.

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Repair of heaters and oil radiators, car acoustics, car TVs and monitors, MP3 players, car radios, acoustic systems.

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Bucharest

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If the fan heater does not turn on when connected to the mains and pressing the button, there may be several reasons for the malfunction. The first thing to do is to check the electrical cord, it may have been interrupted somewhere during summer storage. Did not help? We take a screwdriver and a multimeter, after which we proceed to self-repair the fan heater. The most likely cause of the malfunction is the fuse box, one of which has tripped due to overheating.

Using the Scarlett household heater as an example SC158 we will consider in the form of step-by-step instructions how to fix a fan heater with our own hands:

First, unscrew the screws on the back cover, there are usually 6 of them, as shown in the photo.
Next, we ring the main elements of the circuit with a multimeter: thermal fuses, a thermostat, a thermal switch. The first fuse can be seen immediately without removing the blades. To find the second one, which is on the engine, you will have to remove the fan. You call the circuit with a multimeter on your own and if the reason is really this type of breakdown, you buy the exact same element in the store and replace it (the cost is not more than 30 rubles).

We draw your attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to replace the fuses with thin wires (bugs). With this method of repairing a fan heater with your own hands, you will make a fire hazardous heater that will not work when overheated!

Repair instruction video:

The second popular failure of a fan heater is blowing, but not heating the air. In this case, the cause of the malfunction is most likely a heating element - a spiral or a ceramic heating element. Everything is simple here - you check the resistance in the circuit with a multimeter and if an open circuit occurs somewhere, you need to replace the heating element with a new one. Sometimes it happens that the heater stops heating because one of the sections of the spiral is damaged. In this case, you can try to repair the fan heater yourself by connecting the nichrome spiral.

It is also not a rare case when the same fuse is the cause of a breakdown. If the fan heater does not heat up, check the fuses using the technology provided above.

In addition, the bimetallic thermostat often fails (shown in the photo with a red arrow). For repair, you just need to clean its contacts yourself to a metallic color and warm it up yourself with a soldering iron.The thermostat should behave as follows: when heated, the contacts must open the circuit, when cooled down, close again. If the device does not work, try to manually close the temperature controller and connect the heater to the mains. If it is a worker, the spiral should be heated.

If the fan heater works, but the fan does not turn, the most likely cause of the malfunction is the motor stopped working. What to do in this case? Ring the part with a multimeter and check the insides. Perhaps the bearings are simply worn out and need to be replaced. We talked about how to use a multimeter in the corresponding article!

Another breakdown option is heavy dust pollution, as a result of which the fan does not spin or often turns off. Try to repair the motor yourself by wiping it with a rag and dripping a little machine oil between the moving and stationary parts. Did not help? We replace the broken electric motor with a new one with the same characteristics.

Well, and the last malfunction - the fan heater does not heat the air well. In this case, the cause of the breakdown is contamination of the spare parts. Most likely, the heating element is covered in dust, as a result of which heating occurs weakly, for example, at the second speed, as at the first. For such an easy repair, turn off the power and use a dry rag or vacuum cleaner to walk over all the elements of the circuit, the main thing is not to damage anything. Did you do it, but it doesn't help? Check the electrical plug, it may be at fault. Turn on the heater for a few minutes, then remove the plug from the socket and feel the electrodes. If one of them is noticeably warmer than the second, the electrical plug is broken, as a result of which the household heater produces little heat.

That's all the tips for repairing a fan heater with your own hands! When choosing a heater on your own, we recommend giving preference to models with a ceramic heating element, rather than a spiral. You can read more tips on choosing fan heaters for your home in the corresponding article!

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