DIY carburetor 2106 repair

In detail: DIY carburetor 2106 repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The VAZ 2106 car was produced by the Volzhsky auto concern for 30 years, from 1976 to 2006. Until the end of the 90s of the 20th century, it was equipped with gasoline carburetor engines with a working volume of 1100 to 1600 cm³. The fuel system of the VAZ 2106 car included several different carburetors, the most common of which was DAAZ 2107 "OZON".

It provided the greatest efficiency when driving in all modes. But this unit also had disadvantages, for example, low reliability and a strange way of opening the second chamber. The main malfunctions of this device are associated with clogging of the nozzle channels due to the use of low-quality gasoline and untimely replacement of the air filter cleaning element, diaphragm rupture and spring breakage.

You can troubleshoot the VAZ 2106 carburetor yourself, but for this you need to follow the instructions exactly. Otherwise, instead of solving existing problems, you will create a lot of new ones.

Standard DAAZ 2106-1107010

On the conveyor, 5 types of carburetors were installed on VAZ 2106 cars:

  1. DAAZ 2103-1107010 "WEBER". It was mounted together with 1.5-liter engines on cars manufactured before 1980.
  2. DAAZ 2106-1107010. Installed together with 1.6-liter engines on cars manufactured before 1980.
  3. DAAZ 2107-1107010-20 "OZONE". It was installed with 1.5- and 1.6-liter engines on cars produced from 1980 to 1991.
  4. DAAZ 2105-1107010-20 "OZONE". Installed together with 1.1- and 1.3-liter power units on cars produced from 1980 to 1991.
  5. DAAZ 21053-1107010 SOLEX. It was installed on all cars produced since the collapse of the USSR until the end of the 90s.
Video (click to play).

The first 2 types of carburetors can be distinguished from the rest of the units by the absence of a branch pipe on which the hose of the ignition timing vacuum corrector is put on. This thin yellow or black hose goes from the VAZ 2106 carburetor to the distributor.

It is possible to distinguish "OZONE" from other types of devices by the presence of a "flying saucer" - a pneumatic drive for opening the second chamber. If there is a "flying saucer", but there is no branch pipe for the vacuum corrector hose, then this is a DAAZ 2107-1107010-10 carburetor. This unit is quite rare, it was installed only at service stations to replace the first 2 types of devices after their breakdown.

Since the carburetors of the WEBER and SOLEX families have been completely copied from foreign analogues, their reliability is not satisfactory. It is enough to clean and adjust these units every 60,000 kilometers, and there will be no problems with the fuel supply to the engines of your cars.

However, the most common are devices of the OZONE family. They need to be cleaned and adjusted twice as often. In addition, they have a lot of different diaphragms that break every now and then. The most frequent breakdowns of these units are incomplete opening of the second chamber, as well as malfunctions of the accelerating pump.

Adjusting the carburetor drive

Symptoms of the most common breakdowns.

  1. Pops when you press the accelerator pedal, as if something were shooting at the carburetor.
  2. Similar pops, but now shoots at the silencer.
  3. The idle speed is either too high or too low (float).
  4. The car thinks for a long time while driving on the highway. When you press the gas pedal all the way, it does not accelerate at all, or accelerates too slowly.
  5. When switching to 2nd or 3rd gear, pressing the accelerator pedal, the car first slows down, and then makes a leap forward with a sharp set of revolutions.

The malfunctions specified in points 1 and 2 arise due to detonation - microexplosions of a combustible mixture. If knocking occurs in the intake manifold, then the fuel mixture is too lean, too much air and too little gasoline. If the detonation is in the muffler, it turns out that the fuel mixture is too rich, there is little air in it.

The knock problem can be associated with a violation of the angle of installation of the ignition timing.In any case, you should first try to eliminate the knock by adjusting the carburetor. It helps in 90% of cases.

The symptom described in point 3 indicates the need to adjust the idle speed. The situation mentioned in point 4 informs that the camera drive 2 is faulty. Eliminated by replacing broken parts. The symptom described in point 5 indicates a breakdown of the accelerating pump - it is necessary to replace the diaphragm or spring.

Carburetor repair is a very simple matter, you just need to remove the device from the manifold, disassemble, clean, then replace the broken parts with new ones, assemble the unit in the reverse order and install it in its proper place. After that, it is necessary to adjust the idle speed, but that's another story.

The procedure for dismantling the carburetor on the example of "OZONE".

  1. First you need to unscrew 3 nuts and remove the cover from the "pan" (air filter housing), remove the filter element, unscrew 4 more nuts and remove the "pan".
  2. Then it is necessary to disconnect all hoses, wires and rods attached to the device.
  3. After that, you need to unscrew the 4 nuts and remove the carburetor from the intake manifold.

That's all there is to it. The collector must be closed with a cloth. From the removed device, you can unscrew the pneumatic drive of the second chamber and the cover of the accelerating pump. After that, the defective parts should be replaced and the breakdowns described above in points 4 and 5 should be eliminated.

As a rule, the fuel jets become too lean due to clogged fuel jets. Conversely, it will be too rich if the air jets are contaminated. In both cases, cleaning the carburetor helps to get rid of detonation.

If you do not know how to clean the carburetor, we attach instructions from specialists.

    1. First you need to unhook the telescopic rod from the lever by lifting its lower part up.
    2. Then it is necessary to unscrew the screws securing the instrument cover to the central part and carefully remove it.

Replacing the solenoid valve

  1. In the central part of the carburetor, yellow screws with holes will be visible, these are the jets. You need to carefully unscrew them and soak in acetone for an hour.
  2. The same acetone must be poured into the holes from which the parts were unscrewed.
  3. After an hour, all holes should be blown out with a pump. The jets can be cleaned with thin copper wire.
  4. After that, you need to screw all the jets back and carefully put on the lid.

After assembly, the unit can be reinstalled.

VAZ model 2106 cars were also equipped with carburetor engines, therefore, problems with idling or malfunctions in the throttle valve are very close for them. Therefore, many decide to clean the carburetor of the VAZ 2106 with their own hands and replace the repair kit. And this procedure is not easy, therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to study the manual or expert advice on how to clean the VAZ 2106 carburetor.

Before you clean the VAZ 2106 carburetor, you should study its design and familiarize yourself with the main signs of failures that arise specifically because of this unit. Indeed, the car also has valves and a fuel pump, defects in them can also affect the stability of the internal combustion engine.

The main symptoms of a malfunction are:

  • There is no idle, that is, the engine is running at an increased speed of more than 800 rpm.
  • The engine runs only when the accelerator pedal is pressed, and when released, it stalls.
  • The internal combustion engine works unstably with jerks, vibrates strongly.
  • The car will not start, although there is fuel in the pump, and there is also a spark.
  • The smoke changed from white to black.
  • Loud bangs are heard during operation.
  • Fuel consumption has increased (here is a summary table of fuel consumption for carburetor cars)

If any of the above was found on your car, then you should not postpone the repair of the VAZ 2106 carburetor for later. It is quite possible to do it with your own hands, only in front of you when disassembling the unit you must have a maintenance manual.

All of the above signs can be the result of clogging and coating of its parts with carbon deposits, especially in front of the intake manifold. If soiled with carbon deposits, the air damper may not fully close or open, which causes jerks or the engine stalls.

In order to return the car to its previous performance, the carburetor must be well cleaned of carbon deposits and rinsed from fine debris that got along with the fuel or through a clogged air filter; I reviewed the cleaning products here.

Good to know: There are several ways to carry out carburetor repairs, but each has a different level of service that can be performed in different situations. If the engine runs normally but there are slight jerks, cleaning is not necessary. Flushing without disassembly can be performed. But if the internal combustion engine vibrates strongly, and there is no idling at all, then repair is required here with disassembly and replacement of carburetor parts from a repair kit consisting of gaskets and jets.

Flushing technology and post-repair adjustments are design dependent. Therefore, the first step is to determine which model of the device is installed on your car.

Throughout the history of the existence and production of VAZ 2106 and VAZ 2107 cars, 3 types of carburetors were used:

Image - DIY carburetor 2106 repair

Good to know: Regardless of the model, the carburetors used on the VAZ 2106 are two-chamber and consist of 3 main parts: the device cover (protects against dirt and fuel fittings), the body (it contains chambers, diffusers, from which the mixture is transferred to the engine), the lower part ( placed a float chamber and throttle flaps).

It is the small parts of the carburetor that play a very important role. Thanks to them, the fuel enters the cylinders in certain proportions and mixes correctly with the air to form a high-quality fuel mixture.

But in the process of work due to contamination with small particles or dirt, especially for the accelerator pump and jets, the operating modes of the carburetor are disrupted, which leads to malfunctions and failures when pressing the gas or "sneezing" of the carburetor. Flushing is to remove dirt from all channels and nozzles, thereby ensuring their stable operation.

Many malfunctions can be eliminated by flushing the carburetor, but in order for it to be effective, the unit must be removed from the machine. After that, you will need to disassemble to the required level so that you can get access to absolutely all elements of the mechanism.

Image - DIY carburetor 2106 repair

Details of the carburetor body 2107-1107010 in the diagram: 1 - the rod of the pneumatic actuator of the second throttle valve; 2 - pneumatic drive housing; 3 - diaphragm; 4 - cover of the pneumatic drive; 5 - fuel jet of the transition system of the second chamber; 6 - the body of the fuel jet; 7 - small diffuser of the second chamber; 8 - accelerator pump sprayer; 9 - screw valve of the accelerating pump; 10 - the main air jet of the second chamber; 11 - emulsion tube of the second chamber; 12 - main air jet of the first chamber; 13 - emulsion tube of the first chamber; 14 - the main fuel jet of the second chamber; 15 - the main fuel jet of the first chamber; 16 - adjusting screw of the accelerating pump; 17 - fuel jet of the idling system; 18 - fuel jet body; 19 - returnable spring of the accelerating pump; 20 - diaphragm of the accelerating pump; 21 - a cover of the accelerating pump; 22 - small diffuser of the first chamber; 23 - a returnable spring of the lever; 24 - three-arm air damper control lever; 25 - link rod with the throttle valve; 26 - bracket for the return spring of the throttle valves

Repair consists in performing the following actions:

  • Dismantling the device.
  • Flushing, which includes cleaning and blowing off carbon deposits and adhering dirt.
  • Replacement of defective parts.

Important: It is necessary to remove the carburetor if there is 100% certainty that the problem is in the carburetor, because the problem in other nodes of the car's fuel system is also not excluded.

Do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2106 carburetor begins with its removal. To do this, you will need to remove the air filter, which will still have to be replaced with a new one, and dismantle its housing.

It is recommended to pre-seal the holes in the chambers with rags so that small objects do not get into them. After that, the hose going to the brake vacuum is removed from the pneumatic valve, and the choke cable is unscrewed and the rod is removed from the gas pedal lever, which controls the throttle valve.

If you have a latest Solex carburetor, the wires from the throttle, choke and economizer are disconnected to provide forced idle.

Further, the fuel supply and return hoses, the ventilation pipe are removed. After disconnecting all suitable and supplying elements, you can proceed to removing the unit itself. To do this, unscrew the 4 fastening nuts and carefully remove the device from the studs. It is highly recommended to plug the hole in the manifold with a soft cloth.

For your convenience, I have compiled detailed step-by-step instructions for removing the carburetor from the photo:

Image - DIY carburetor 2106 repair

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Important to remember: The carburetor gasket must be replaced with a new one. To avoid air leaks.

Image - DIY carburetor 2106 repair

Spare parts that are included in the carburetor repair kit for the VAZ 2106:

  • Launcher diaphragm
  • Jet body
  • Idling jet - 2 pcs.
  • Main air jet - 2 pcs.
  • Main fuel jet - 2 pcs.
  • Needle valve, assy
  • Accelerating pump diaphragm
  • Filter element
  • Carburetor cover gasket
  • Starter gasket
  • Return spring
  • Accelerating pump diaphragm spring
  • Idling screw (adjusting needle)
  • Ring sealing
  • For P / C 2105-10, 2105-20, 2106, 2107-10, 2107-20:
  • Accelerator Pump Sprayer
  • Spray valve
  • Atomizer gasket - 2 pcs.
  • Screw М5х0.8х20
  • Screw М4х0.7х15

The first method of cleaning is to perform it without disassembling the mechanism. The fact is that not every motorist can disassemble and reassemble the unit. A special technique was developed for washing it. For this, a special aerosol agent in cans is used. Common cleaners include "ABRO", "Mannol", here I made an overview table of carburetor cleaners, perhaps it will be useful to you when choosing.