DIY carburetor repair to 133

The carburetor was developed by Pekar JSC for the MeMZ-245 engine of the Tavria ZAZ-1102 vehicle. The carburetor is a single-chamber, double-diffuser, with a decreasing flow of the combustible mixture and a balanced float chamber, a forced idle economizer, a semi-automatic starting device, a brass float, brazed and float mechanism with an upper fuel supply and an autonomous idle system.

The carburetor consists of three main parts: the cover of the float chamber, the middle part with the float chamber and the lower branch pipe with the mixing chamber.
The cover contains an air damper, a fuel filter, a fuel float valve, an accelerator pump sprayer, an idle air jet and a parking imbalance valve. The choke is pivotally connected to the throttle and is driven by a rod, the button of which is located on the floor tunnel. When the air damper is fully closed, the throttle valve opens 1.6-1.8 mm, which achieves the best mixture formation at start
idle engine.

Carburetor device K-133

The starting device contains a pneumatic corrector 14 and a system of rods that form a semi-automatic air damper drive system 7.

The cover 1 of the carburetor contains a valve (tube) 5 for unbalancing the float chamber 18, a fuel valve 19 connected to the float 20, fittings 15 and 17 for supplying and bypassing fuel, respectively, and a fuel filter 16.

In the body of the float chamber 1 there is a main air channel with a small diffuser 8, with a gasket 9, a latch-retainer 32 and a large diffuser 6. In the bridge of the small diffuser, channels are made that play the role of atomizers of the main dosing system and an economizer.

The main metering system consists of 25 fuel and 11 air jets and 10 emulsion tube.

The idle system contains fuel 12 and air 13 jets, as well as a screw 26 of the toxicity of the exhaust gases.

The accelerator pump and economizer are united by a common drive 2, which is kinematically connected to the drive of the throttle valve 28 rotating on the axis 29. The accelerator pump contains a check valve 33, an atomizer 3 with a pressure valve 4. The carburetor is equipped with an EPHX valve with a valve 27 and a screw for the amount of fuel mixture, an electronic pneumatic valve 23, microswitch 22 and electronic idle sensor 21.

In the housing 18 of the float chamber, an economizer valve 34 is located, connected through a channel with an atomizer, and a float 20, kinematically connected to the fuel valve 19.

In the housing 31 of the mixing chamber there is a throttle valve and a fitting 30 for supplying crankcase gases.

1. Adjust the gap between the wall of the mixing chamber and the throttle valve when the air damper is fully closed (the carburetor is removed)
With a fully closed damper, the gap should be 1.6 - 1.8 mm, if this is not the case, we achieve the specified values ​​of the gap by bending the rod.

The lower part of the carburetor, where the throttle cable is attached

The lower part of the carburetor, where the throttle cable is attached

The adhesion of the air damper to the wall of the air intake must be tight, the gap must not exceed 0.25 mm.
2. Install the carburetor on the car.
3. Adjust the air damper drive (VZ):
- we pull out completely the control lever of the VZ, then we recessed it by 1-2 mm.
- we completely close the airlock
- insert the drive (steel wire) into the bore of the VZ drive lever and clamp it with a screw, fix the drive shell on the drive shell mounting bracket.
All fastening operations are carried out with a completely closed air intake
4. We check the operation of the VZ drive:
- when the lever is extended, the air intake is completely closed, when the lever is recessed, the air intake is fully open.
5. Insert the throttle valve (DZ) drive (cable) into the damping device of the DZ drive lever, after placing the end of the drive shell in the bracket - the shell stop.
6. Completely close the remote control.
7. Fasten the drive (cable) with a screw.
8. Put on the tension spring and check if the remote control is completely closed, and if there is any loosening of the cable.
9 . XX adjustment

9.1. We start the engine and warm it up to a temperature of 65-75 degrees.
9.2. We turn the mixture quality screw all the way, but without fanaticism.
9.3. Unscrew the quality screw 2 - 2.5 turns.
9.4. We start the engine and set the operating speed of XX in the range of 950 -1050 rpm with the screw of the amount of fuel mixture.

We carry out pp. 9.1. - 9.4.
9.5. using the number screw, set the minimum permissible speed of XX, at which the engine is able to work stably.
9.6. With a quality screw, rotating it in one or the other direction to achieve the maximum increase in speed of XX.
9.7. Set the working speed XX with the number screw.
10.8. If desired, the procedure according to PP. 9.5. - 9.7. can be repeated twice.
Note:
If there is a possibility, then you should not do all this and rebuild the system in the workshop using a gas analyzer, and if not, then there is only one way - see paragraphs. 9.1. - 9.8.
If, when performing pp. 9.5. - 9.7. it is not possible to achieve the desired results, this indicates wear of the components of the XX system, in this case at least replacement of the needles is required, as well as the running-in of the seats (holes) corresponding to the needles.
But do not rush to the store for spare parts, you can limit yourself to the adjustment according to paragraphs 9.1. - 9.4. with subsequent correction (if necessary) of the XX system setting using a gas analyzer.

Useful video about setting up the K-133 carburetor

This was when I sucked in air under the carb. Then XX cannot be adjusted. Look what happens if you close the air filter with your hand.

Draws air specifically, respectively, if I close it with my hand, it stalls.
But what I noticed during the next training:
- the engine runs at idle, and if you press the shaft with your hand
throttle valve in the direction of its closing, then the motor
stalls; to which the conclusion suggests itself: the throttle valve does not completely overlap the opening of the emulsion channel.

Well, the question is - what to do with it? After all, on the removed carba, it becomes
as it should be.
Didn't it happen?

>> Air leaks are still possible through the exhausted throttle valve shaft. I advise you to check the axle backlash!

Parallel "adjustment" priter plane
: covers and a float chamber (a neighbor suggested, they were generally a screw). But two questions arose - what is the dependence of the opening of the economizer valve with the work of the piston of the accelerating pump, can
: who will tell you

>>> EPHH system and accelerator pump are not connected in any way

and the second mixture is rich - you can clearly see it, and on
: the quality screw adjustment does not respond if unscrewed completely
: and start, then it starts and stalls, it seems clean under the screw, the throttle valve closes the “fuel channel” hole when closed.
:
>>> Check the fuel level and the tightness of the shut-off needle.

So after all, the level is ok and the needle holds.

The color of the spark plug is black, but not from the ingress of oil from the crankcase.
The engine does not consume oil. After engine overhaul
mileage of about 25 thousand. The muffler pipe inside is also black.
I did not measure the consumption, but I feel that it is more than it could have been.
The basic premise is no response to toxicity regulation.

>> about jets - an interesting idea, there is some kind of outfit
how to check;

: 1. Air filter
>> what about the filter? Look what-would it be clean? And then I remembered here,
that there was 100% contamination of the crankcase suction hose,
but in general he is in place;

: 2.Gaskets / not to be confused with those with wings 🙂 /
>> these are the ones in the carburetor, so they are in place;

: 3. Does the air damper open fully
>> well, with that, I think there is no problem, but I'll take a look.

Well, the question is - what to do with it? After all, on the removed carba, it becomes
as it should be.

Q: Has anyone struggled with eliminating throttle backlash, if so how?

Tell me how it's done, I think I have the same problem

The adjustment was carried out on the removed carb with the float cover removed
cameras.
Adjust clearances between bar and stem nut when fully open
throttle valve (DZ):
1. to drive the economizer. 5 (+ -) 0.5 mm .;
2. to drive the accelerating pump. 2 (+ -) 0.5 mm ..
After adjusting, pay attention to the fact that the completely closed DZ
should cover the opening of the emulsion channel. Can be lubricated
DZ axis in the carba body, cheb without jamming any tam.

The option for attaching the gas pedal drive cable left the standard one.
Do not tighten the cable too much when fastening, so that the damper has the ability to
close completely. Well, I immediately glanced at the ignition, while it is convenient and
sawed the generator casing along. Before you start, turn away
a few screws of quality, otherwise m. problems with starting.

Well, I tried as best I could, it will not be clear - ask.

P.S. Huge Sorry for some delay. Literally hired right now
the rear wheel hub shaft in half on the splined part (defective mileage
100 thousand), in a safe place for 60 rubles. took almost zero, but it took an hour and a half, and now the Internet is bent.
So if everything works out, don't be on the asphalt with slipping,
I've already checked that.

In short, I'm trying to send it for the 30th time.

I had a similar case.
After repair, including the carburetor, I could not adjust the XX normally. After much torment, I found that the throttle valve did not close completely - there was a similar reaction to its forced closing by hand. The carburetor has been removed and partially disassembled, the cause has been found.
During the repair, in the carburetor repair kit, I found a rubber collar for the accelerator pump. It was not in my carburetor. Deciding that it was useless to ride like that, I hoisted the cuff in place. She walked in her channel rather tightly, and since the accelerator pump drive is connected to the throttle valve, then the difficult movement of the pump drive did not allow the throttle valve to close completely. This, by the way, is very clearly visible in the light when the top cover of the carburetor is removed. It was then that I realized that the former owner had thrown out this seal for a reason. I followed his example and now the XX is regulated as it should.

At the same time, I’ll tell you about another problem with the carburetor that came up with me. Completed the repair, debugged XX, drove out. Everything is fine. After 15-20 km, it stalled and barely started 🙁 The engine was started only with fully open throttle and, sneezing, very reluctantly gained speed. But as soon as the revolutions returned to normal, the engine switched to a stable mode of operation. Until the next start.
It turned out that when assembling the carburetor after washing in acetone, he did not tighten the fitting that connects the carburetor with the vacuum octane corrector. Those. I wrapped it by hand, but did not tighten it with a key. He let go of the shaking and sucked. Here.

Re: Adjustment of K-133 Try to loosen the tension of the throttle actuator cable,
and it is also worth lubricating the damper axis.

You can also slightly change the method of fastening the cable, namely, bypassing the hole in the damper rod, and insert a cotter pin of a suitable size into this hole itself. This is exactly what I did and everything is Ok, no jamming of the cable and damper.
Good luck !

>>>>>> I don't remember the marking, but from memory, of those jets that are on the side of the carburetor under the plugs - the one with a smaller section at the bottom,
with a larger one at the top. And for good - check the marking and compare with the book for ZAZ

: >> What about the filter? Look what-would it be clean? And then I remembered here,
: that there was 100% contamination of the crankcase suction hose,
>>>>> It never hurts to wash the filter, at the same time to change the oil in it
Good luck !

Status: Offline
Is registered: 28.12.
Posts: 1182
Location: Polotsk, center of Europe
My car: ZAZ 968M - for the soul

Do not be offended for the title of the topic, for we are all “teapots”, who are former, who are real. But real "teapots" always have a chance to become exes. Let's collect in this thread all the useful information about the carburetor and related systems.

Your car is equipped with a carburetor power system.
You are dissatisfied with the driving performance of your car, it eats too much fuel in your opinion, or you are not tired of the traction and dynamic performance of the engine
Well, this grief can usually be helped by turning on imagination and fantasy.

Before digging the carburetor, for the purity of the experiment, do the following:

1. Change fuel and service air filters if they are of significant service life.
2. Check the condition of the "earth" wires on the car body and on the engine.
3. Check the resistance of high-voltage wires, clean their contacts and insulation.
4. Check the resistance of the windings of the ignition coil and its performance

PERFORMANCE ORDER Checking the ignition coil B115

1. To check the health of the ignition coil on the car, remove the cover from the ignition distributor and, turning the engine crankshaft, install
breaker contacts to closed state. 2. Switch on the ignition. Lead the high-voltage wire from the ignition coil to the engine ground at a distance of 5–7 mm and periodically open the breaker contacts by hand.

3. With a working ignition coil (a charged battery and a working capacitor), each opening of the contacts must be accompanied by an uninterrupted spark.

Checking the resistance of the short circuit windings

Primary winding (Contacts "VK" - "B")
Winding resistance at 20 ° C, Ohm. 3.072-3.328

Secondary winding (Contacts "center wire" - "B")

Winding resistance at 20 ° C, Ohm. 6300-9200

5. Check the performance of the spark plugs, capacitor capacity, contact gap, clean with a metal brush from deposits and carbon deposits.

The capacitance of the capacitor, measured in the frequency range between 50 and 1000 Hz, should be in the range of 0.20–0.25 μF.

6. Clean all contacts of the ignition system
7. Adjust the valve clearances
8. Set the initial ignition timing.

All adjusting and reference data on the manual for your machine.

Carefully study the device of your carburetor and never think that you already know it, as a rule this is not the case, most motorists know the general structure without delving into the little things, which in fact sometimes play an important role in the operation of the carburetor.

Lesson 3. Be patient, and for the impatient - carburetor settings on page 4 of this topic:

Is it boring? , "soap opera"? Do not worry, I will go to the garage for a spare carburetor, disassemble, assemble, take pictures of the whole process step by step, post the photos, just do not rush me, be patient.

_________________
Hyundai S Coupe 93 y. 1.5i, 12 V, 88hp G4EK, ECFI, (her name is Beast)
I attach non-stick

Last edited by bomok58 (22 February 2011 16:07), edited 4 times in total

I want to tell the owners of the Cossacks some of the news in the repair of carburetors on any models of the Cossacks. Many of us, owners of cars and motorcycles, know about the evil of overflowing a carburetor. This usually happens on old worn out carburetors.

Today, before work, I decided to dig deeper with my Zaporozhets, who is standing under a canopy. And since I am now driving another, not a Zaporozhets, I decided to prepare the buzz for the cold weather and for the winter in general. I put the battery on, put on the plus and minus terminals, pumped up the fuel pump lever and the ignition key. Believe it or not, the engine started up with half a turn. He's super-duper about this!

I sit rejoicing, checking all the devices: headlights, far and near, charging voltage, oil pressure, emergency gang, turns left and right, ceiling in the cabin. Suddenly I smell gasoline. I go off the beaten track, go back to the engine and see that it is wet under the carburetor and there is a strong smell of gasoline. And there is. I do a test - I pump it up with the fuel pump lever and immediately imitate the operation of the accelerator, that is, I press on the damper, like I inject. And I see that on the right, from under the accelerator pump, there is a cap of gasoline.

The first thought is the shut-off needle in the float chamber. She has been letting me know about herself for the last year. At work and at home, after standing for a night or a day or two, the car started up and after 5 minutes it stalled! That is, the needle jammed and did not open access to the gasoline in the float chamber. While the engine was running at this time, all the gasoline that was in the carburetor was produced and, accordingly, the engine then stalled! Well, I guess what to do?

I am a thrifty person and you can find a lot in garages))) I know that there are K-133 carburetors on a Zaporozhets in a small garage. Removing the shut-off needle from there and rearranging it to your carburetor is my idea!

I remove the top cover on my carburetor. Disconnect the hoses from the fuel pump and the return line to the gas tank. Then I remove the float, take out the locking needle and see that the sealing ring on the needle is simply stretched and deformed to the side. So it didn't hold in the groove. The level of gasoline also rose noticeably in the float chamber. Gasoline got into the accelerating pump, and there it already flowed out under the pressure of the gasoline pump! Here is the reason for you why it pours gasoline in the Zaporozhets and why the carburetor in the Zaporozhets does not work.

He quickly threw the needles, put everything in the reverse order. But first I checked and again adjusted the level of gasoline in the float chamber. For this he pumped out all the gasoline with an old medical syringe. Then he slightly bent the tongue on the float and put everything back. I checked it by pumping it up with a gas pump. I checked it with a match - exactly 21 mm from the edge of the plane! Tunic in tunic!

The Zaporozhets started up again with a half-barrel. Vzhik. I left the salon and stood by the engine and watched the work of the mechanisms. Gasoline does not leak. So the engine ran for about 15 minutes, warmed up and rattled smoothly.

Hello dear forum users! Please tell me how to properly install the K-133 carburetor instead of the K-133A (which is on my ZAZ 968M) Do I need to plug the return fuel pipe and what is the best, if necessary. Or how to connect it to the tank? the valve and to the economizer valve. Or muffle them. And how all this will affect the operation of the carburetor. And on the K-133A there was a tube for unbalancing the valve of the float chamber, which is connected to the air filter, but in the K-133 it is not. K-133 carburetor I wrote out a new one, came, but it turns out that I have a K-133A and now I have to be wise, otherwise I would have screwed up all the cases.

Another question: is there a hole at the factory for a return flow of fuel from the carburetor? What is the best way to make it yourself or not, but is it better to plug the return pipe on the carburetor? Thank you!

1. There is a drain. It is on the side where the float chamber is. You can muffle, but you don't need to.

2. I wrote to you in the mail that you shouldn't put and mount the electronic unit on the carb. It is better to remove and close all this. Look from above in my photos how the hose is connected.

3. The hose is sold in the store. This is from 2108-2109 Ask the hose from the vacuum cleaner to the carb.

4. My advice to you: throw out your own oil filter and put on an air filter from the classics. This is a dream. And I also have heating in winter. If it is interesting, I will tell you in detail how to do and mount all this, I will post pictures from my ZAZ.

Now I will take a photo of my K-133. Look at how everything is connected to me.

Last edited by administrator (18-Jul-15 17:50), edited 1 time in total

Thank you very much for such attention to me, for a visual photo and explanations! You have a golden soul!
Please tell me, where is the drain from the carburetor going to the tank or to the float chamber?
Already I hurried and put the hoses from the capillaries, now I’ll look for the VAZ-08. And what is the classic better than a native air filter, better air purification and longer? I’m interested in everything and I need heating in winter too.
Nice to meet you!

Here you have an additional generator. And what is that green container with hoses above the engine?
You have made some serious improvements!

The drain goes into the gas tank. How to see it?
1. Climb back, remove the cover from the glass
2. You will see the 2 bolts that secure the rear seat backrest. Unscrew.
3. And on the left you will see a float system in the top of the gas tank. Inlets and outlets in the form of sealed tubes.

My advice to you. Make a return. Because an airlock in the fuel pump is possible and the car will stall. I've had this before. Foolishly, I put a plug in the form of a bolt in the hose and tightened with a clamp.

The oil filter is worse. I'll tell you. Water enters through the top in the form of condensation. Usually it is fog, heated air, suspended particles of water during rain. This is when the car is standing like this. I work where there are frequent fogs, even in winter. There is a lowland and suffered with this problem. I had such that ice formed there! And the Zaporozhets worked unstable at idle and pulled badly, that is, all this ice in the oil blocked the air. Yes, and you put boxes from the classics, believe me, you will feel the pull in the car. It will be better to pull and accelerate to gain many times faster by sensations. And you can buy the air filter itself from the classics anywhere. Replacement is common by eye. I change when it clogs up with dust at all. I don't look at the mileage. Since it happens that I ride on gullies and in the fields, the dust clogs up quickly.

In winter, it's a fairy tale. I drive a little less than a kilometer and the Zaporozhets starts to drive with sensations much faster due to the supply of hot air from under the collectors. You saw it in the photo. There the branch pipe goes down, there is an intake under the casing. I tested it on a hot motor: I disconnected the air supply from the filter and put my hand up. It is the hot air that is warmed up, it does not even have time to cool down.
Moreover, the cover on the Zhiguli filter can be made in the "winter-summer" position. I think you understand what I mean.

If you are interested in all this. I will snap a photo of how to edit it all. Well, I'll tell you.

I don’t want to brag, but I thought of it all myself and did it myself.

The green jar is a fine gasoline filter. I am writing right away, do not put it in front of the gas pump. The gasoline pressure will be weak.

I have a plunger fuel pump. Certainly. it is more expensive than simple, but hopeful. Once set and that's it. In my opinion, I went for 4 years and forgot about him.

You have not yet seen what is hidden under the covers.

By the way, take a look at one photo. There is a hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor and look - a tee is cut into it. The pipe leads to the stove. You probably also have a standalone stove? Working? If the electric petrol pump is naughty there, do as I have. Forget about everything. I've been skating this way for 7-8 years, I thought of it myself. Also about It I can tell you and put a photo.

Usually a Zaporozhets has a lot of childhood ailments and problems. All this can be removed once and for all, believe me. I have already forgotten what it is to lie, do or repair.

About the generator. I turned off my dear one, he only twists, forcing air. And this one is more than charging. Light, stove, music for everything and everything that can be turned on - the generator holds easily)

If I'm not mistaken, you can put the carburetor top cover from K133 (replace). You will be happy. Try it there. In my opinion, the lower one also needs to be changed, there are other valves and holes in the same place. To be honest. I'm just guessing, I can't remember. Usually this valve always reminds of itself.

Tomorrow I'll go and take a look at another Zaporozhets, what kind of carburetor there is. If it's 133A, I'll take pictures for you.

Hey!
I cannot change parts from k-133A up or down, although it is possible, because. in the old carburetor, the throttle lever is heavily worn out from wear (that's why I bought a new carburetor, gasoline flowed from the lever). And left the top, because there is no rubber band on the needle (I put it out of a lighter, it still pours, but I didn’t find the rubber band Here is a completely new one and installed it. I bought a vacuum tube today and put it on, replaced all the candles with new ones, put a repair kit in the gas pump, but the Zaporozhets did not start: he grumbled a little, poured three candles (I set the gaps. I checked the needle in the float chamber - rubber conical tip; the fuel level is normal, as if (at the factory all the adjustments were made (without the gasoline float, just along the outer strip (where it says “level”. But the level is set with the float? I don’t understand anything)

Thank you for the pictures, it is immediately visible and almost understandable. I will drain, thank you. Yes, in the previous carburetor I set the fuel level according to a strip on the body (there is a “level” written there. Together with the float, when the carburetor is closed, so the shots of steel from Carbure. Comes out - without a float, you need to set the level?
What do you think, what is the reason that I will not run a Zaporozhets.
Communication is slow and often disappears, for three hours now (from 20, and now more than 23 hours) I have asked a question; often I don’t answer right away, therefore, but, although the next day, I’ll upload my message, be aware.

This is your ignition set incorrectly.
Expose as needed. The ABC requires 49-53 degrees. It starts up like a foreign car, without a gas pedal on the gas. I only need to pull out the air damper and the Zaporozhets starts up by itself without snorting and firing shots at the muffler. A shot into the muffler is clearly the wrong ignition.

The level in the float chamber is easy and simple to set. You take a match, measure it with a 21 mm ruler, cut it off from the side of the head. You remove the top cover of the carburetor, suck gasoline with a medical syringe. You put this match of 21 mm with one end inside the camera, from the edge of the plane and below with something to draw with a point, for example, a screw. In order to set the gasoline level itself at this mark. You put the top cover back on, pump it up with a gas pump. You take off the lid again and look. If the gasoline is on par with that dash (21 mm), then great. If not, remove the float and bend the tongue more or less depending on the level. Don't even let 23mm or 19mm. Try to put it exactly 21!

The fact is, if you set the level lower, and I also experimented this way earlier due to inexperience, then the car will shut up during acceleration, as if not to pull. Yes, and at idle will stall more often!

Expose more, more than 21 mm, then it will be possible to eat a little more and fill in candles.

I am writing this to you in general terms. It is recommended to set 21 mm at the factory. I've noticed who did it to my friends, who had buzzers and who hired me, everyone says that the car feels better. Few people know about this nuance, about the level.

My father, when I was little, did not know this and put the level by eye. I remember the car was stupid, it didn’t pull.

Level, ignition, properly tuned carb and spark plugs - the car will fly.

How to adjust the carburetor
There is a device, I don't know if it is on sale now or not, like screwing it in instead of a candle and inserting a wire into it. Then you tighten the screws of the mixture of gasoline and idle until they stop and then (!) You unscrew both by 2 - 2.5 full turns. I do 2.5 full turns. Get started. If the ignition is set clearly, it is always easy to start. Do not accelerate much more than 2,000 revolutions on the tachometer, because that device stands instead of a candle, it can break from excess revolutions. It was so with me. At idle, you look through the mirror at the flame and adjust the speed, first the supply of gasoline and slightly correct the idlers. We turn off the engine, put back the candle. We start up and ride along the road.The fact that newcomers in the parking lot are jerking and abruptly gasping is nonsense. It is necessary to check under load, that is, it is necessary to move and accelerate. Accelerate the car. The machine should jerk without failures, without jerks and without plugs, as expected. I have so. It happens to me, if I get carried away, I slip)))))) It was such that I had to change one rear tire, erased it like that

To begin with, set the ignition (this is the main thing), then adjust the carburetor (level, position of the damper in the lower part in relation to the jet there. You will see a hole there.). Nice candles. Put not A23, but A17 with a short skirt. Well, try it.

By the way, I forgot. When you turn on the ignition, take out the distributor. Look at the backlashes below. If everything is hanging out there or is already loosening, change or repair it. You can set the ignition, but it will jump. This is the turnover and the start will be bad.

And get an electronic tachometer, pamper yourself and your Zaporozhets. It shows me voltage, charging, economizer, ignition angle, number of cylinders, tachometer, clock, stopwatch and much more.

The carburetor ZAZ 968m is a cult Soviet car. He replaced the famous "humpback", and in the late 80s was restyled. Until now, in many countries there are fans of such machines, so many of them are very often interested in the issues of operation and repair. Today you will learn how to set up and adjust the ZAZ 968m carburetor with your own hands.

Depending on the model range and year of manufacture, ZAZ could be equipped with a K-127 or K 133A carburetor. If you study them carefully, you can find huge differences from the same K 133. These devices were not equipped with idle economizers, and the float chamber is made in such a way that it has a connection with the atmosphere and is clearly balanced.

The zaz 968m carburetor consists of 3 main parts:

1. Mixing chamber with a lower branch pipe;
2. Float chamber;
3. Float chamber cover.

All the necessary mechanisms are located in the lid. Among them, one can distinguish the accelerator pump sprayer, air dampers, the needle valve of the float chamber, as well as the nozzle responsible for idling.

The float chamber and diffuser are pressed into the middle part. It also contains a float and a float chamber valve.

The air flap control button is located in the tunnel in the floor of the passenger compartment. It is connected to the throttle control rods and when opened, it also opens slightly by 1.6 mm. The manufacturer adjusted these values ​​at release, but over time they may lose their settings.

The carburetor was used not only on ZAZ cars, but also on LuAZ. Therefore, the entire tuning process is no different on both vehicles.

The K-127 carburetor is two-diffuser, vertical, with a falling flow.

No carburetor adjustments are made unnecessarily.

Therefore, it is performed if the car has the following list of faults:

1. Unstable idle;
2. Increased or decreased speed;
3. High fuel consumption;
4. Small throttle response of the engine;
5. The engine has been overhauled.

An unadjusted carburetor or ignition system can lead to all this.

Many lovers of the LuAZ or ZAZ car perform this procedure to increase power, but it must be remembered that when such a setting is performed, fuel consumption can seriously increase, and the engine resource will be reduced. Our task is to consider the standard most economical carburetor adjustment while maintaining the required engine power.

Before adjusting the device, you need to make sure that the motor is in full serviceability. Otherwise, the whole procedure will be meaningless. To do this, pay attention to the valve clearances. They must be nominal. Adjust them if necessary.

The next element is the correct operation of the ignition system.The lead angle should be set as needed, and the ignition coil, cables and plugs are in good condition. If necessary, these elements must be replaced.

It is best to put the car in a warm garage if the work is done in winter. He should stand on level ground. The gearbox is at neutral speed and the wheels are locked with the parking brake.

When preparing the ZAZ 968m carburetor for maintenance, the carburetor setting should be done after the appropriate air and fuel jet has been purchased.

First, remove the assembly from the car, it must undergo complete disassembly, cleaning and further assembly, taking into account certain requirements. The first is the gap between the throttle valve and the mixing chamber. Ideally, it should be between 1.6 mm and 1.8 mm at full throttle. To set these values, you need to bend the rod in the desired direction. When the flap is closed, it should fit very tightly. Otherwise, there will be an extra air leak. Adjust the gap by grinding or by bending the rod in the same way.

The throttle valve of the K-133A carburetor (correct and incorrect position): a - incorrect; b - correct; 1 - the outlet of the idle emulsion channel; 2 - air channel; 3 - emulsion channel; 4 - screw for adjusting the quality of the mixture; 5 - screw for adjusting the amount of the mixture.

Now you can put the carburetor on the car. The installation must be accompanied by strict compliance with safety regulations. The next step is to adjust the air damper. To do this, the control lever is fully extended and the flap closed. In this position, the cable must be tightened. It is not difficult to check the work - if you drown the lever, then the damper is completely closed, if you pull it out, it opens completely.

The throttle actuator is controlled in the same way. After that, all the springs and rods of the carburetor system are collected. It is imperative to check the operation of the mechanism by imitating its operation.

The next important step is the idle setting. The fuel consumption of the car depends on it. The level in the float chamber is not set. You can customize it in two of the most common options. The manufacturer has provided for both methods.