DIY repair karcher k 5 compact

Karcher is a quality technique for professional cleaning or household cleaning.

But even high-quality equipment can fail with constant or improper use. In the article, we will talk about the principle of operation of devices, weak points of technology, main breakdowns and their causes, so that in the event of a collision with any of them, you can know what to do.

Despite the fact that Karcher sinks are the leader in their industry, they also fail. If the Karcher sink does not turn on one day, you do not need to panic, in most cases the problem is not serious and can be easily corrected. Some of the most popular reasons why the sink may not turn on are:

1. Stuck control valve piston. This problem leads to the fact that after turning the control knob, the device still does not turn on, since the piston does not move and cannot reach the desired activation lever.
2. Breakdown of the relay.
3. Piston breakage.

In 90% of cases, if the Karcher does not turn on, the reason is the sticking of the valve. Typically, this problem occurs due to the fact that it is through the valve that the detergents pass. As a result, it stops responding to switching on.

You can repair the system yourself if you have basic technical and electrical skills. Sticking of the valve can be associated with the constant passage of detergents through it, which are supplied through the plastic nipple.

To fix the problem, you need to disassemble the sink body. This requires a screwdriver, hexagons and sprockets, or you can use a screwdriver to make the process go faster. Be sure to check that there is no water inside the sink and unplug it.

First you need to disassemble the case, then remove the clamp that secures the motor. The valve we're interested in is hidden under a plastic nipple, but you can't get it, you can only check the valve travel. To remove the valve itself, you need to open 4 hexagons on the body, disconnect it, remove the electrical block and divide the lower part. You will see the valve tip pressing against the disconnect end of the circuit, which will prevent the sink from turning on.

Now you need to clean its seat, wipe it with grease, and if the spring is bent, unbend it. However, if you do not have technical skills, it is best to contact a service center.

To reduce the risk of such a problem in the future, you should buy a foam lance - the foam is much lighter than the stringy detergent.

To understand what exactly broke and why the sink stopped working, you need to understand how Karcher works. The operation of this car wash is based on high-pressure technology, water is supplied under pressure, such a device allows you to cope with any pollution as quickly as possible and with low labor costs, with its help you can wash a car or put in order a site.

The design of this device is based on a powerful synchronous electric motor, its power can reach 3 kW. The motor rotates against the swash plate attached to the shaft. In this case, the plunger is in contact with the washer, making translational movements, and when the plunger moves to the lowest point, water is supplied through the inlet valve. And when the plunger moves up, overpressure builds up and the high pressure outlet valve opens.

Modern models of Karcher sinks are equipped with water-cooled electric motors, which allows to increase the service life of the engine and prevents it from overheating during operation. Accordingly, the sink can work longer without interruptions, which means that its productivity also increases.

German-made household mini-washers are usually equipped with plastic or aluminum valves, which makes the device cheaper, but reduces the functionality of the device. Washers with plastic or aluminum valves cannot work for a long time without overheating; they often require recharging. The average operating time without interruption for such devices is 60 minutes.

Professional pressure washers use a brass or stainless steel pumping unit. Accordingly, the operating time without interruption for this sink will increase. Some professional-type models are capable of working several shifts without interruption.

In order for the minisinks to break less often, that you need to operate them correctly, the device should not be left for long breaks with high pressure in the system. This will create additional stress and lead to premature wear of the elements. It is also recommended to use an automatic shutdown device - it is installed in all modern car washes and can save up to 20% of electricity.

Speaking about the safe operation of the sink, you also need to figure out which oil to fill in Karcher. It is recommended to use only high-quality oil in order for the sink to work stably and without interruptions, as well as to prevent its premature breakdown. It, like fuel, influences the life of the sink and the result during the operation of the generator. During production, the manufacturer fills in the necessary oil on his own and usually no replacement is required - the amount of oil is enough for the entire life of the mini-washer. If we are talking about a household model, then a really factory filling should be enough. But when using professional washers, the need to change the oil sometimes arises.

Depending on the design features of the model, lubricating oil can be poured separately, into a special reservoir, and together with fuel when refueling. The viscosity index of the oil and its marking must be taken into account. Viscosity indicates the time of the year in which the oil can be used. There are winter, summer and universal varieties, universal ones include SW-20, 10W-40, 10W-50, 3W-30 and many others. In winter, the viscosity of the oil should be 0-20W, and in summer - more than 20W.

You can use multi-purpose oils such as CD or SG, they are suitable for any time of the year, for any type of fuel. Otherwise, S-marked oils should be used for diesel generators.

Do-it-yourself car wash "Karcher" repair

Details Published on 04/09/2014 15:50 Views: 2736

One of the most common models of car washes "Karcher" that are found in private use is Karcher 5.20. The machine is reliable, efficient and relatively inexpensive. But the eminent German Körcher units are prone to breakdowns.

I will consider the option of self-repairing the Karcher 5.20 car wash in case of one of the breakdowns that I have. Its essence lies in the fact that after about 2 years of operation, the sink suddenly stopped delivering the pressure set for it, an intermittent operation of the pump appeared and, accordingly, the pressure of the jet became intermittent.

Considering that, for objective reasons, the warranty repair of the device was excluded, I had to experiment and carry out repairs with my own hands in the garage.

I will try to describe the process in the form of a photo instruction:

1. Remove the case (assembled on bolts and disassembled with a screwdriver),
2. We take out a motor with a pump,
3. We separate the pump from the motor (this must be done very carefully, holding the pump up, otherwise oil will pour out from the piston drive)

Now you need to remove it from the valve piston. When doing this, do not use sharp, hard tools - they can easily be scratched.

We disassemble the pump in two (in half) and again remove the valves from it (I called them that)

And now the reason for the breakdown of the apparatus becomes visible: it turned out to be a small pebble that was stuck in one of the valves. How he got there remains a mystery - the sink was always operated with a filter and there was also an additional, external filter on the water supply.

The valve also has traces of very small particles and a coating like scale (apparently hard water).

We clean all the elements inside the pump and wipe it with felt or other soft cloth (plastic valves and any abrasive can aggravate the situation).

When finished, we assemble the pump and motor in reverse order.

If oil spills, you can replace it with any compressor oil.

After such a simple procedure, the car wash works like new.

Based on materials from the site:

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Usually, when the water is supplied and we turn on the sink in the outlet, the pump turns on for a second, as if creating pressure in some receiver. After that, from the button on the sprayer, the unit actually starts up, the compressor works and the water flies in the given direction.

This time, everything went differently: the pump is not limited to one time, but “growls” with a frequency of an hour hand, about once every two seconds. The impression is that somewhere inside there is a leak, and you need to constantly pump up water. After pressing the button on the sprayer, the sink is already working normally, but when you release it, these periodic starts again.

Tell me in which direction to dig in this case, where could there be a malfunction? The warranty has expired a long time ago.

11 april 2016
at 22:17

Already many people earn just talking on our forum!
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Karcher car washes are a popular type of modern cleaning equipment that has become widespread, largely due to its reliability and durability.

Nevertheless, these car washes - just like any other equipment - inevitably wear out during operation, which over time can lead to its breakdown. Specialists who carry out the repair of Karcher car washes identify the following main malfunctions.

The most common problem is a decrease in the performance of the car wash pump. A drop in operating pressure is directly related to it, leading to a decrease in the efficiency of the washing equipment. The reason for the drop in pressure, as a rule, is the wear of the stuffing box seals available in the pumping unit of the Karcher car wash. This wear can be natural (associated with long-term operation); it can also be caused by poor water quality and the presence of abrasive particles. A symptom that allows you to identify the described malfunction is the appearance of puddles of water under the car wash. This signal should not be neglected: a problem that occurs can lead to even more serious consequences. The wear process will develop on an incremental basis, while high pressure water can destroy the oil seal and break into the crankcase of the drive mechanism. The oil in the crankcase will turn into a foamed composition and will not be able to fulfill its lubricating function.Obviously, the repair of a car wash in this case will turn out to be a much more costly event than if you contact a service center in a timely manner.

The failure of the Karcher car wash can be associated with such malfunctions as wear of the rubber rings of the pressure regulator or bypass valves, as well as damage to the hoses. Symptoms such as:

• decrease in the recoil force of the pistol at the moment the car wash is turned on;
• decrease in the density of the liquid stream;
• decrease in its detergency.

Any of the listed symptoms is a reason for immediate contact with a specialized service center.

The Karcher car wash problems listed in this article are common, but, alas, they are far from the only ones. It is good news that the professionals of service centers these days successfully eliminate almost any defects, completely restoring the performance of car washes.

Why does the Karcher not gain pressure and work in jerks with the cutter on?

The problem can affect most budget sinks, for example KARCHER K 3, 5.200 and others.

Karcher can work in jerks for several reasons.

1. If there are air bubbles in the underwater hose, but we do not consider this issue.
2. A drawdown of electricity is unlikely to give the Karcher work in jerks, although this is also possible.
3. The main reason is the pressure valve. When the cutter was connected, my Karcher worked at intervals of a second - it turned on and off. All other problems (drawdown of electricity, airiness of the system) are excluded and checked. If everything is in order with this, most likely the spring of the water pressure valve is out of order. The valve is responsible for stabilizing the Karcher pressure and turning off the electric motor. If the karcher works in jerks at short intervals, this is most likely the reason.

The valve spring is made of stainless steel and tends to sag after some time of intensive use. Now, to turn on the valve (and turn off the engine), you need a much lower pressure, because the spring has sagged. The cutter turns on, the pressure rises sharply, the valve turns off the engine, the pressure drops, it turns on again and so on in jerks at intervals of 1 second. With the usual Karcher nozzle, everything is fine, the pressure there is not so great.

In this video - a more detailed explanation of getting rid of Karcher jerks.

First, let's take a look at Karcher 5.20

take out the valve

Here is the problematic Karcher pressure relief valve, the spring of which prevents us from living

There are several options to solve the problem.

But the original spring is needed - made of stainless steel, since the valve is always wet, and corrosion in this place is not allowed - otherwise it will jam. Hence the disadvantage - there are no good stainless steel springs)
stretch the spring mechanically. I didn't succeed, the spring lost its rigidity.

After stretching under compression, it took on its original shape.

compress the stem holding the spring. There is an adjusting thread, which can be tightened to shorten the spring and it will become stiffer. It is better to look at the video. We'll have to file the tip of the rod a little so that it twists deeper.

you need to twist a millimeter by 1.5 -2 from the original.

for this we clamp the Karcher valve in a vice so as not to let it turn

We disassemble it with pliers. The valve is threaded, so force is required. In a vice, you need to squeeze accordingly.

Here is this stainless steel spring

We file the tip of the screwed part of the valve on the grindstone by 1.5 - 2 mm to begin with

We tighten the spring. Putting the Karcher in reverse order.

LUBRICATE THE SPRING AND VALVE WITH SILICONE GREASE

If the jerks remain, you need to still tighten the spring.

If the karcher works and does not turn off, then the spring is squeezed and the valve is clamped. You need to let go a little.

You may need to disassemble and assemble several times until you fully configure.Remember to RELEASE GUN PRESSURE and DISCONNECT FROM MAINS before each disassembly.

now the karcher cutter works fine - without jerking

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• 
• Alexey-pnz
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• Where: Penza
• Registered: 25.06.2012
• Posts: 957

It is not entirely clear: without a foaming agent, everything works fine for you, as soon as you put on the pressure disappears? And the pressure is restored after you remove the penny?

I have no pressure even without a foaming agent. A trickle flows, I release the button on the pistol, gains pressure, I press, zip and again a trickle

• 
• Alexey-pnz
• Member
• Inactive

• Where: Penza
• Registered: 25.06.2012
• Posts: 957

First, inspect the junction of the gun and the nozzles, maybe there is something interfering with the flow of water, maybe the seal from the foam kit fell off and remained on the gun. Try to remove the I / O hose altogether and turn on the sink without it, if there is no pressure, then the reason is in the pump, most likely the bypass valve is jammed.

I turn off the hose, the trickle is just as weak, the answer came from the service center that the sink worked perfectly for 25 minutes, in the store they checked it at the time of issue from the service with ordinary self-sampling from a bucket, but hello home, the situation is the same as before putting the sink into service for inspection, today I will go and buy a regular flexible hose three meters long to connect the barrel and the sink by gravity, on the weekend I will try, if it does not work out then I will have to carry it back to the service, it didn’t work with the sink from the very first day, did not make friends with her so to speak.

• 
• Alexey-pnz
• Member
• Inactive

• Where: Penza
• Registered: 25.06.2012
• Posts: 957

I turn off the hose, the trickle is just as weak, the answer came from the service center that the sink worked perfectly for 25 minutes, in the store they checked it at the time of issue from the service with ordinary self-sampling from a bucket, but hello home, the situation is the same as before putting the sink into service for inspection, today I will go and buy a regular flexible hose three meters long to connect the barrel and the sink by gravity, on the weekend I will try, if it does not work out then I will have to carry it back to the service, it didn’t work with the sink from the very first day, did not make friends with her so to speak.

The sink began to work intermittently and there is no pressure. What to do? How to fix a Karcher sink with your own hands?

The reason you described may lie in the incorrect operation of the water pump. To fix it, you need to: first of all, turn off the power supply, then remove the plastic casing (case) and get close to the pump itself. The pump should be removed and disassembled in detail, this is the only way you can determine the cause. Wear of O-rings and much more visually immediately after disassembly, all defects are clearly visible. Often, solid particles get into the water, which can disrupt the operation of the pump. When the pump is disassembled

when all the parts are removed, they need to be put in warm water with citric acid so that all the old grease goes away. Then wipe everything thoroughly and replace every part with defects.

You write that there is no pressure, most likely the reason is in this bypass valve

But I will immediately emphasize that there are quite a few models of Karcher high-pressure washers, the reasons for breakdowns are even more, because the technique is rather complicated.

Correct diagnosis is 90% of the repair success.

The valve that I wrote about above can stick, the reason is dirt.

Sometimes it is enough just to rinse it, clean it and lubricate it, this is a collapsible unit, it is better to take a branded Karcher lubricant, in our case we need silicone lubricant.

We remove the casing (usually it is 8 bolts), put the device lying down with the wheels up.

Next, we remove the pipe (plastic), here you need a hex key, it is held on three bolts.

We take out the valve itself with pliers.

Examined, rubbed, want to disassemble into components.

Lubricated, assembled the sink in reverse order and started it.

If everything is in order, then we have managed with small efforts (investments); if not, we change the valve to a new one.

When reassembling, check the mesh filter, it is located in the branch pipe (see above), the mesh may be torn due to this, dirt gets on the valve.

The filter is only cleaned, it is not repaired, if it is torn, we buy a new one and replace it.

If there are interruptions in work in Karcher, as you correctly noticed this may occur due to a loss of pressure, then the water supply stops until the device reaches the required pressure and so on constantly.

As I noticed, there can be several reasons, at least two.

You should not go straight into the water pump, first you need to look at the contamination of the filter and the water supply system in general, it is quite possible that there is simply no access to water.

If everything is normal with pollution, or rather everything is clean, then check the tightness of the system, there is a possibility that the pressure is being released due to water leakage from the system, perhaps the hose just cracked or the cuff is leaking.

If the first two examinations did not reveal anything, then the water pump is diagnosed and repaired.

They call it correctly - pump.

I personally recommend installing a new pump assembly, due to the fact that in the old one there may be a production and replacement of a repair kit will not work.

And for the price there is not much difference, so the pump costs from 2000 to 5000 steering wheels, if assembled, and repair kits from 1000 to 4000 rubles.

To choose a pump, you need to know the Karcher model, and in some cases, how it looks.

Here is an example of replacing the pump for the karcher k 4.75 model