DIY Niva cardan repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Niva cardan from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Welcome!
Cardan shaft crosses - firstly, about the cardan shafts, let's say right away, you already most likely know that the Niva car is equipped with two cardan shafts, unlike other cars, for example, unlike cars of the Classic family on which only one cardan shaft is present, in connection with this, there will be more crosspieces on the Niva (Two crosspieces per one driveshaft), therefore there will be a little more work, but as a rule, one kind of crosspiece fails from all four, and not all at once, but if you do not change it in time the crosspiece will break very quickly, the crosspieces are needed only in order to connect the joints of the cardan shafts (Simply if you directly connect the shafts, they can deform over time and bend, and this does not happen with the crosspieces, since the crosspieces can move) and therefore if one crosspiece fails, then a backlash appears at the shaft and it starts to spin unevenly, which leads to the exit of another cross fault of failure and loss of power in the car.

Note!
To replace the propeller shaft crosspiece, you will need to stock up on: Screwdrivers, as well as if there are thin pliers, then take them too, besides this, you will definitely need a set of all kinds of keys, and in general, no repairs are made without keys, well, a hammer with a punch made of mild steel (This began to include: Aluminum, copper, brass) and a vice will be needed (instead of them, a press is still possible)!

Summary:

Video (click to play).

Where are all the crosspieces of the propeller shafts located?
They are located at the bottom of the car, so you have to climb under the car in order to replace the crosses themselves or to see them at all, for clarity, a photo is placed just below that was taken from under the bottom of the car, two propeller shafts are visible on it (Indicated by red arrows ) and the places where all four crosses are located, these places are indicated by blue arrows, but unfortunately, one cross is not visible in the photo (it did not enter the frame), but as you climb under the car, you will immediately find it.

When do you need to change the crosspieces of the propeller shafts?
As soon as they become loose and play appears at one of the car's driveshafts, it is very easy to check this play, just climb under the car and exactly in the place where the crosspiece you are interested in, grab your hand and pull the driveshaft (Do not forget to lock it with a screwdriver , otherwise it will turn, or just hold the shaft with the first hand, and with the second hand, pull it from side to side in the place where you think the cross is worn out, if there is a backlash, then the cross needs to be replaced), but these are all checks, and the symptoms that the crosspiece has worn out will be as follows: Firstly, when starting off, as well as during sudden braking, when you also sharply press on the gas and when switching speeds, a knock may occur in the lower part (Where are the driveshafts ), if you constantly hear this knock, then it only says that some of the crosses have become unusable and also needs to be replaced.

Note!
As for the backlash at the crosspiece, we would like to tell you, if the bearings at the crosspiece become unusable (they break and the like), then this backlash will not even exist, so when you climb under the car, check the crosspieces for deformations on them, and even better You can inspect them by disconnecting the flanges together (For this, you just need to unscrew the nuts, as you read the article, you will understand what we are talking about)!

Note!
Before changing the crosses, we recommend that you remove the propeller shaft you need from the car, although some people do work on the installed propeller shaft, but this is very inconvenient (In this case, the propeller shaft is not installed in a vice, but a hammer and a spacer are simply taken from soft metal and a hammer blows into this very spacer and the bearing is thus pressed into the inside, after reading the entire article you will understand what we are talking about), so we recommend that you completely remove it and replace the crosspiece on the shaft removed from the car! (For how to remove the driveshaft from the car, read the article: "Replacing the driveshaft with a VAZ")

Withdrawal:
1) Let's start with the fact that all four crosses are replaced absolutely identically and therefore we will show an example of replacement only on one cross, in general, at the beginning you will need to remove all four retaining rings (The photo shows only one ring, it is also indicated by an arrow and the small photo shows how it looks) using thin pliers or something like them (you can also try to pick up the rings with a screwdriver).

Note!
If you still do not understand in what places all four rings are located, then we will explain right away, the cross has four ends (In the photo below, only two ends of the cross are visible, they are indicated by red arrows) for that it is called a cross (From the word cross), on at each end of the cross there are retaining rings (they hold the bearings so that they do not fall off) and those same bearings are located under the rings, for clarity, one of the bearings is indicated by a blue arrow and in a small photo the bearing removed is shown to all this!

2) After the rings are removed, take chalk, or a felt-tip pen, or a chisel with a hammer in your hands and apply two marks in order to know how to install the flange on the propeller shaft during assembly, the marks must be applied in two parts, namely, as you already see in the photo below, put one mark on the flange itself, and the other on the propeller shaft housing (The mark that is applied to the housing is indicated by a red arrow).

Note!
When all the bearings are knocked out and the cross is removed from you, take a fine-grained skin or a file and use them to remove all the rust that has formed in the places where the bearings were installed, for clarity, one of these places is indicated in the photo below with a red arrow!

Installation:
A new cross is installed in its place, in the reverse order of removal, that is, first the cross is put on, only then the bearings from the reverse side are pressed onto it, they are pressed with a vice, so as soon as you installed the cross, put it in a vice and into the holes from above insert the bearings themselves and press them inward until they pass the gap into which the retaining ring is inserted (This is the ring that locks them), as soon as this gap has passed, stop pressing the bearing in and go to another, but there is one But! In a vise, you will not be able to press the bearing straight down to the stop, since the vise will not rest against it when it is level with the fork body, so in this case take a union head or a pipe segment (indicated by an arrow) of a suitable diameter and as shown in In the small photo below, press the bearing itself inside, until it passes the same gap into which the retaining ring you install.

Note!
All bearings in the manner described above, using a piece of pipe and a vise, press them inward and then, in addition, lock them with retaining rings, besides this, do not forget about the mark that you made earlier regarding the fork and the propeller shaft housing (Both marks will have to when assembling, converge with each other), well, also check the grease in the bearings, usually the manufacturer saves and does not put grease in the bearings practically at all, we recommend you a little in this case (if you do not have grease or if it is not enough) grease the bearings ( You don't need much, a little straight), with the help of Fiol-2U grease and after that, install all the bearings in their places, after installation, check how the fork rotates, nothing should jam, creak, everything should rotate normally!

Additional video clip:
A visual video that shows the process of replacing this cross is shown below, be sure to watch it and you will understand everything perfectly.

We disassemble the universal joint only to replace the crosspiece assembly with bearings.

Use round nose pliers to remove the four retaining rings.

We mark the parts of the hinge so that they are placed in the same position during assembly.

Install the puller on the hinge flange fork.

Press the bearing housing out of the propeller shaft fork until the cross stops in the fork.

In the absence of a puller, we support the propeller shaft flange fork on the support (vise jaws) ...

... and through a suitable length of pipe we hit the propeller shaft fork with a hammer, pushing it down until it stops in the crosspiece.

Similarly, we press out the bearing housing located on the opposite side of the propeller shaft fork.
Leaning the propeller shaft plug on the vise jaws, alternately press out the bearing housings from the flange seats.
With both methods of extrusion, the bearing housings do not completely come out of the holes of the forks, ...

… Therefore, even if you slide the cross-piece all the way into the fork, the cross-piece spike cannot be removed from the bearing housing.

For final extrusion, the bearing housing must be clamped in a vice. So that he does not turn in the jaws of the vice, ...

... with a cutting machine ("grinder") we grind flats on the bearing housing.

The bearing housing can now be securely clamped in a vice by the flats.

By turning the propeller shaft around the bearing axis, remove the fork from the bearing housing.

We remove the flange with a cross.

We press out the housing of one of the cross-piece bearings installed in the flange in the same way as the bearing housing of the propeller shaft yoke.

Clamping the propeller shaft plug in a vise, use a punch to knock out the housing of the other bearing, which remains in the plug. Similarly, we knock out the bearing housing remaining in the flange.
Before installing a new crosspiece, we make sure that there is grease in the bearings - 0.8–1.2 g of Fiol-2U grease is put into each bearing.
We put the oil seals on the spikes of the cross-piece and insert the cross-piece into the sockets of the propeller shaft plug.

In a vise with soft metal jaws, press the bearing into the socket of the fork until its end stops in the vise jaw.

At the same time, we insert the spike spike into the bearing seat so that the bearing needles do not fall out. In the process of pressing by swinging, we control the ease of rotation of the crosspiece in the bearing.

With a suitable piece of pipe we press the bearing into the socket of the fork deeper than the groove under the retaining ring.

Using round nose pliers, install the retaining ring into the groove of the fork.

Similarly, we press the bearing into the other seat of the shaft fork until the opposite bearing stops against the end of the retaining ring and install the second retaining ring.
Orienting the flange according to the marks relative to the propeller shaft fork, insert the spikes of the cross into the flange slots.

We press two bearings into the flange seats one by one ...

... and install the retaining rings in its grooves.
After assembling the cardan joint, we strike with a hammer with a plastic striker on the fork and flange in order to select the clearances between the ends of the bearing housings and circlips (for the selection of the retaining ring thickness, see the design description).
We check the ease of turning the universal joint.

We remove the driveshaft (see the article - "Removing the driveshafts").

1.Using round nose pliers, remove the four retaining rings.

We mark the parts of the hinge so that they are placed in the same position during assembly.

2. Apply marks with quick-drying paint so as not to confuse the position of the hinge forks during assembly.

3. Can be marked with a chisel

4. We install a special puller on the hinge flange fork and press the bearing housing out of the fork seat until the crosspiece stops in the fork.

5. If there is no puller, then we support the cardan flange fork on the support (vise jaws), and through a suitable section of the pipe we hit the cardan shaft fork with a hammer, moving it down until it stops in the crosspiece.

In the same way, we press out the bearing housing located on the opposite side of the universal joint fork.

Leaning the propeller shaft plug on the jaws of the vice, alternately press the bearing housings out of the seats.

6. When pressing out, the bearing housings do not completely come out of the holes of the forks, therefore, even if you move the cross to the stop in the fork, the cross spike cannot be removed from the bearing housing.

7. To finally press out the bearing housing, you need to clamp the bearing housing in a vice so that it does not rotate in the vice jaws and grind the flats on the bearing housing with a grinder.

8. We grip the bearing housing by the made flats and, turning the propeller shaft around the bearing axis, remove the plug from the bearing housing.

9. Remove the flange with a cross. The housing of one bearing of the crosspiece, we also press out with the help of a grinder

Clamping the propeller shaft plug in a vise, use a punch to knock out the housing of the other bearing, which remains in the plug. Similarly, we knock out the bearing housing remaining in the flange.

Before installing a new crosspiece, we make sure that there is grease in the bearings - 0.8-1.2 g of Fiol-2U grease is put into each bearing.

We put the oil seals on the spikes of the cross-piece and insert the cross-piece into the sockets of the propeller shaft plug.

11. In a vice with soft metal jaw pads, press the bearing into the socket of the fork until its end stops in the jaw of the vice.

At the same time, we insert the spike spike into the bearing seat so that the bearing needles do not fall out.

In the process of pressing by swinging, we control the ease of rotation of the crosspiece in the bearing.

12. Using a suitable head or pipe piece, press the bearing into the fork seat deeper than the groove under the retaining ring.

13. Using round-nose pliers, install the retaining ring into the groove.

We also press the bearing into another seat of the shaft fork until the opposite bearing stops against the end of the retaining ring and install the second retaining ring.

Orienting the flange according to the marks relative to the propeller shaft fork, insert the spikes of the cross into the flange slots

14. Alternately press two bearings into the seats of the flange and install the retaining rings in its grooves

After assembling the universal joint, you need to tap with a hammer with a plastic striker on the fork and flange in order to choose the clearances between the ends of the bearing housings and circlips (see the article “Features of cardan shafts” for selecting the thickness of circlips). We check the ease of turning the universal joint.

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Video (click to play).

Sores come out. The oil seal of the rear axle reducer shank ran. 100 rubles stuffing box, knob, unscrew the nut of the shank and the escutcheon to help. Everything changes in half an hour. The front gimbal chattered, it dangles very much, just a very large backlash. I understood where the hum after 70 was coming from. As I didn’t notice it before, I don’t understand. The crosspieces are all right, the salenblocks are also intact.

I decided to remove the cordan backlash, as in the first Niva. He took it off, disassembled it on the slot.

With a grinder, I cut four cuts on the short part of the cardan, after 90 degrees. Through cuts, with a cut-off wheel, but not to the edge. I put it on the splines, pre-lubricated with the CV joint and welded on the assembled cardan. It pulled along the penetrations so that I had to clamp it in a vice to disassemble the cardan. He cooled it in the air, lubricated the CV joint, developed it, drove everything back and forth along the slots, and assembled it. Put it in place. The luftik remained, but stopped hanging out.

It remains to check on the go. 70-80-90 there is no vibration, it is not comfortable to go faster, but I achieved my goal, removed the vibration.

On the way, the right front bearing, once again I think to tighten up praises, and then a replacement.I think for an imported analogue.

Cardan on CV joints, we independently remove and repair

Niva Chevrolet. Personal experience. CV joints.

Welcome!

The propeller shaft is a very important part for both all-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive vehicles, the car will not drive without it, thanks to this shaft, which looks like a large metal stick, torque is transferred from the gearbox to the gearbox , well, the gearbox already starts up this moment on the wheels themselves, and thus the car drives.

Note! To replace this part on Niva cars, you will need to stock up on the following tools, namely: A set of wrenches (just wrenches, others will not work), we still recommend taking a healthy screwdriver (Or medium-sized if there is no bigger one)!

Summary:

Replacing cardan shafts
Additional video clip

Where are both driveshafts located? As you already understood from the title of the article and from the inscription just above, there are two cardan shafts in the Niva car, for example, if we talk about the rear-drive Classic, then there is only one cardan on it and but they are removed on the Niva and on the Classic. easy and almost the same, that is, the nuts for securing the flanges of the driveshafts were turned out and the shafts were then removed from the car (we'll talk about how to unscrew these nuts a little later), you can see in more detail about where these driveshafts are located in the article titled : "Replacing the driveshaft crosspieces with a VAZ", there will be a picture on which these shafts are indicated with a red arrow, in addition, read the article to which the link is given above, since these crosspieces from time to time fail and so that you generally know what symptoms they are will reflect on the car, read the article to which the link is given, everything is written in it.

When do you need to change the propeller shafts? It is practically never necessary, unless of course you operate the car normally in urban conditions, and not drive it around the mountains, the whole point is that the driveshafts themselves almost never fail and do not go out, it may happen that you touch them and in connection what do they bend with, so after that you need to change them right away, if you don't do this and ride on bent shafts, then, firstly, the power will drop and it will rotate unevenly, and therefore the crosses will wear out very quickly, they will start knocking and a number of other problems are yet to appear.

Note! If the propeller shaft turns when you unscrew the nuts, then ask the assistant to hold it with his hand, or in the best way, insert a thick screwdriver into the very place that is shown in photo 2 and thereby ensure that the bolt does not move (so that the nut unscrew it normally) and fix the propeller shaft itself so that it does not rotate!

Installation: The cardan shafts are installed in the reverse order on the car and about the old shafts, let's say a few words, that is, if you decide to install the same shafts on the car (you took them off, for example, to replace the crosses and are not going to change them for new ones), then be sure to make marks on the forks of the shafts (The mark on the fork is indicated for clarity with a red arrow) with respect to this mark, draw the second one, on the flange to which the propeller shaft plug is connected to you (In the photo, the fork is connected to the flange of the rear axle gearbox, the mark on it is indicated by a blue arrow), when reverse installation of all shafts, set them in exactly the same position (By marks).

Additional video clip: If you bent the driveshaft and decide that you need to replace it, then you will have to pay quite a lot for it, because it costs pretty good money, about how to choose one or another driveshaft for your car, look in the video just below, in which the employees explain which shaft is best suited in urban or in difficult conditions for a car, but also at various forums on climb, as time goes on and the company can spin up and they will make a fake on it, and thanks forums, you can find out a lot of additional information for yourself, including reviews about a particular cardan shaft can be subtracted.

Removing the propeller shaft on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it in the event of mechanical deformations, for repairs or when performing other work in which its presence will interfere with their progress. Drive the car onto a viewing pit, overpass or lifts, then, having prepared a standard set of tools, do the following sequence of actions: Image - DIY Niva Cardan Repair

If the shafts are not removed for replacement, then before removing them, we put marks on the flange of the shaft and its drive in order to set them in the same position during subsequent assembly.
Using a thirteen wrench, unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the end of the propeller shaft to the flange of the rear axle gearbox. We keep the bolts themselves from turning with a flat screwdriver, with which we wedge them.
Likewise, disconnect the propeller shaft from the transfer case rear axle drive flange.
Then we remove it.

We remove the front propeller shaft by disconnecting it from the flanges of the front axle gearbox and the axle drive shaft from the transfer case.
Now that the removal is completed, we carry out the necessary repairs or replace them, after which we carry out the installation in the reverse order.

This completes the repair work on the removal of the cardan shafts on the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 cars.

Removal of the propeller shaft on a Niva 2121 and 2131 car is carried out for its repair or complete replacement in case of significant mechanical damage. To carry out repair work, prepare a standard set of tools, then do the following sequence of actions:

We unscrew the four bolts securing the propeller shaft flange to the rear axle flange. To prevent the bolts from turning, they must be held with a slotted screwdriver, which we insert between them and abut against the cardan plug. Remove the bolts and disconnect it from the bridge flange.

Likewise, unscrew the nuts securing the four flange bolts to the front axle.
Now we remove the shaft from the car.

This completes the repair work on removing the propeller shaft on the Niva 2121 and 2131. Carry out the necessary repairs, and then carry out the installation in the reverse order. Flange fastening nuts are self-locking, so they must be replaced with new ones without fail.

In what cases is it necessary to replace the Niva cardan shaft cross, and is it possible to carry out this operation with your own hands?Can. Removing the old crosspiece on your own and installing a new one is not a super difficult task (the video below shows how it is solved). But, of course, there are some secrets, and we will talk about them.The crosspieces of the propeller shaft of the Niva car require replacement in the following cases.

There was an incomprehensible knock in the area of the driveshafts.

It can be especially noticeable during sharp relaunching, braking or gear shifting.

Troubleshooting is easy. It is necessary to drive the car into a hole and check the shaft play. How to do it? You need to lock the gimbal itself with a screwdriver and pull it in different directions. If there is a gap, it will show itself.So, it is necessary to change the cross in this place. The difficulty in replacing the driveshaft crosspieces in the Niva lies in the fact that there is a doubled number of them (i.e. 4 pcs.), Because we have both leading bridges.In general, all operations for replacing this node can be reduced to the following algorithm.

Remove the desired propeller shaft.

Remove retaining rings from their places.

Dismantle the defective assembly.

Install a new crosspiece.

Carefully press in the bearings and cover them with circlip.

Select the required size of the clearances in the nodes.

Now more specifically about replacing the Niva crosspiece.It is more convenient to remove the rings with two screwdrivers. Image - DIY niva cardan repair

Next, you should apply with a marker two marks linking the location of the Niva parts. Otherwise, the subsequent balancing of the shaft is ensured.

Then you need to rest the cardan flange in the jaws of the vice and carefully knock out the bearings through a union nut head of a suitable diameter.

Thus, for replacement, it is necessary to dismantle the upper and lower bearings (in some difficult cases, you have to use a grinder). After that, you can remove the fork itself, and behind it and the cross-piece of the propeller shaft.

After dismantling the bearings, it is necessary to process the seats for them with a file or sandpaper, there is usually dirt and rust.

Then a new cross should be put in place.

All operations are performed in reverse order.

A cross is installed.
In a vice, the bearings are pressed onto it until there is a gap for mounting the circlip.
Rings are put.

It remains to watch a video of how some auto repairmen work.

The main distinguishing features of shafts for production vehicles "Belcard".Today, a lot of products of dubious origin appear on the secondary market. This material is intended to help motorists in identifying cardan shafts. 2121-2201012-04 production OJSC "Belcard".When choosing a propeller shaft, first of all, you need to devote a little time to a visual inspection. The shaft should be painted with matte epoxy enamel, while the connecting surfaces of the flanges are protected from painting at the factory, the presence of traces of corrosion is not allowed.Pay attention to the welding of the balancing plates, they must be installed evenly and tightly to the propeller shaft tube. The absence of balancing plates, careless welding indicates that the shaft was manufactured in "artisanal" conditions. The propeller shaft tube must be flat, no dents are allowed. In the manufacture of cardan shafts on OJSC "Belcard" applied pipe OD 59 mm (inner diameter 55 mm, wall thickness 2 mm).If possible, it will not be superfluous to stretch the splined joint of the propeller shaft. Free movement indicates that there is a circumferential clearance in it, which can lead to premature failure. If it was not possible to stretch the propeller shaft, or for this it was necessary to exert significant effort, the spline connection was not selectively selected. Find the marks of the relative position of the balanced set, they should be located strictly opposite to each other.Try to turn the joints of the propeller shaft, they should not turn too tight, check for grease fittings, rubber caps.Distinctive feature of cardan shafts manufactured OJSC "Belcard" are also:1. Original self-adhesive label, which reflects the date of manufacture, the designation of the propeller shaft, the barcode (smeared in the figure).2. Duplicate self-adhesive label in the flange cavity.3. Trademark of OJSC "Belcard" on a sliding fork.4. Lack of grease nipple in splined connection. The design of the spline connection is characterized by increased reliability and does not require maintenance during operation.For its manufacture, advanced technologies were used, such as polymer coating of the spline sleeve and knurling of the sliding fork splines by cold plastic deformation. Such a connection significantly reduces the load on the units of the units mated by the cardan shaft.
The absence of any of the above signs should alert you, because upon shipment, each propeller shaft undergoes strict multistage quality control.The speed limit for my Niva was 90 km / h, then there was such a vibration that there was a crackling and there was a feeling that the Niva would explode.Everything was great up to 90 km / h.
To solve this jamb, what only I did not do:
Put new crosses;
The shaft on the crosspiece was fingering and sprinkling;
I put spacers of different thickness under the supports of the distributor (in neutral, in the 5th gear, the distributor sways a little);
I did dynamic balancing (the car was on chocks, the razdatki mounts and the gearbox were relaxed and everything was tightened on a working transmission with the least vibration).And the reason for all the hemorrhoids was cardan joints, which had noticeable backlash in the splined joint plus a 3-4 cm rear suspension lift.I drove without exceeding a speed of 90 km / h (oh, how sad it is to drive a dalnyak at such a speed on the highway, you overtake a truck and wonder if the car will fly apart before the end of overtaking).At my leisure, I delved into the theory of the cardan transmission:If you use a cardan shaft with one cross (as in the old promaplu with a cross), then with a uniform rotation of the shaft, the angular speed is uneven and changes according to a sinusoidal law. Graphically, it looks like this:The uneven rotation of the shaft will be the more significant, the greater the angle y between the axis of the shaft and the flange. If the uneven rotation of the shaft is transmitted to the shafts of the units, additional pulsating loads will arise in the transmission, which increase with increasing angle.
When used in the cardan transmission of two cardan joints, they are installed so that the angles y1 and y2 are equal; cardan joint forks fixed on an unevenly rotating shaft must be located in the same plane.There is even a basurmanskaya picture, which shows the correct position of the universal joint to the axes of rotation of the flanges.In such harsh conditions, a schiz was born in my head about the installation of cardan shafts on CV joints.For a long time and carefully weighed all the PROS and CONS of their installations walking across the vastness of the different Internet there.
PER:
reduction of vibrations;
prolongation of the life of the output bearings of the RK and gearboxes;
increased efficiency due to the elimination of energy losses due to vibration.
AGAINST:
The risk of tearing the CV joint boot by sitting in a rut or on branches;
The lower strength of the CV joint in relation to the cross (I put this in great doubt).I decided to decide, but I could not buy everything, then there is no money, that is, but it's a pity. I also wanted to buy two cardan shafts at once and to coincide with this the introduction of double-row bearings on the output shafts in the Republic of Kazakhstan.That eliminates the backlash of the flanges, even rather of one flange - the rear one, since there the shaft is short to the point of not being decency, because of this, the splined joint of the cardan wears out more.Here is such an unexpected service.The next day I jumped into the garage for half an hour, scratch the cornfield's belly and screw on a new bun.True, I had to tinker a little ... On the universal joint with CV joint, instead of bolts, studs are inserted into the flangesand in order to fasten it, you need to move the RK and RPM apart by a distance of two lengths of these pins. In addition, my RPM is untied from the engine. To do this, first I screwed the cardan to the RPM, then unscrewed the ski mounts (the lower cover of the RPM) from the anti-roll barAnd unscrewed the side supports for attaching the RPM to the front beamMoved the RPM forward, and then everything falls into place, elementaryAlong the way with this procedure, I replaced the oil seal of the front universal joint flange in the RK,otherwise he turned into a writer, which is not permissible in view of the coolness of the oil poured into itAnd now about the sensations after replacing the cardan.
With intensive acceleration at the end of the first gear and the beginning of the second, there was a raskolbas RK, and then silence. The speed limit moved up to 110 km / h, and then the shaking was not the same as it was before after 90 km / h, there were no more conditions to accelerate, there was heavy traffic, although the vigorous engine allows it. Now I want to unfasten the rear universal joint and test for vibrations with a new universal joint and try to swing the flange shaft onto the CV joint.So far, I am completely satisfied with the replacement of the universal joint. The first step is now to model double-row bearings in the Republic of Kazakhstan and buy a rear universal joint.Unlike the Classic models on Zhuguli, the retaining rings on the Niva universal joint cross are located inside the entire structure, and not outside, and they had to be removed a little differently. But thank God, everything turned out to be very simple, just use a thin screwdriver to move the ring outward on one side:Then, again with a screwdriver, we pry the retaining ring and take it out:After that, we hit the cup with a hammer from the opposite side until the lower one flies out:Then we turn the cardan over and insert a bolt or a breakdown in diameter into the recess of the cup:and hit it with a hammer until the second cup of the cross flies out:One side of the cross is now free. We do the exact same procedure with the second side.And after that we insert a new cross into the cardan, setting back the retaining rings. Be careful when inserting the rings, as they might bend slightly after removal. If this happens, squeeze them slightly with pliers or lightly tap with a hammer.After 9 months of rather active operation and 25,000 kilometers of run, the first repair of my Niva took place. Moreover, completely ignoring the not yet expired Warranty Period, I decided to do everything myself.And the first to make itself felt was the Outboard Bearing of the Cardan Shaft, which has recently begun to “rustle” strongly, straight from a speed of 5 kilometers per hour, here, listen:Please note that for this event it is not at all necessary to do everything on the flyover or above the "observation pit"! “Niva” is already high, and even more so the rear wheel was raised, so I easily settled on a soft mat on the floor in my Garage and, even without any Instructions, got down to business!Raise the rear wheel so that you can rotate the cardan, and so that it is freer under the Typewriter:We remove the Rear Cardan from the Suspended Bearing side (from the rear axle side it is not necessary to remove it at all), for which we hold the bolt with a “minus” screwdriver, and unscrew the nuts with a “13” key, and at the same time two more nuts holding the Suspended Bearing housing:Next, you need to block the center differential and unscrew another nut with the head on “27”:After that, you need to “pull together” what holds the outboard bearing at the back, and the bearing itself:And at that moment I was faced with the fact that I could not "pull it off" in any way. And so I crawl with a hammer and somehow differently. In general, it was decided to completely remove the cardan, on which this Bearing directly "sits". And it can be removed very simply - you need a key for “13”, without a screwdriver:Having placed the cardan vertically and neatly with a hammer alternately on all sides, now everything is easily pulled together:We change the bearing, lubricate and assemble everything in the reverse orderNow it's a completely different matter and nothing "rustles":