DIY vaz 2106 cardan repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the cardan vaz 2106 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

key for "13", 2 keys for "19";
mounting blade;
a suitable screwdriver;
beard;
hammer;
you will need pliers to remove the retaining rings.

When working with a lift, it is necessary to hang out the rear wheel so that the cardan gear turns more conveniently; if the machine is on the inspection pit, secure the wheels with wheel chocks.

Move down the parking brake lever, leave the shift knob in neutral.

Get the nuts that fix the safety bracket to the body, dismantle the lock and flat washers, remove the bracket.

When rotating the propeller shaft, remove the flange and coupling bolts (this can only be done when the bolt is located in the upper left corner in relation to the coupling axis). With a tight stroke, you can use a goatee.

Use a spudger to keep the propeller shaft from turning, at this time unscrew the 4 nuts with your free hand, which fix the flange mounting bolts. These nuts fasten it to the flange of the drive gear of the rear axle reducer of the VAZ 2106 car.

Special tapered head bolts and fast wearing bald nylon ring nuts hold the gimbal flange together with the pinion flange. If the bolt turns, you need to fix it with a screwdriver.

Unscrew the 2 nuts connecting the intermediate support crossbars and the VAZ 2106 body. Remove the washers.
Dismantle the cardan drive by moving it in the direction of travel of the vehicle. The rear shaft at this time must pass above the handbrake cable.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Video (click to play).

When reinstalling the elastic coupling (if it was removed during the repair), the liners 2 must coincide with the groove 3 located on the front propeller shaft flange and with the groove 1 lying on the gearbox output shaft flange.
When free, the outer diameter of the coupling increases, so the new set of couplings has a clamping strap. It must be removed after the installation of the cardan transmission is completed. If there is still no clamp, a bit can be used to align the bolt holes in the flanges and coupling.

Earlier it was about clutch malfunctions, about its adjustment. This article will talk about replacing the clutch with a VAZ. ...

The reason for the need to replace the front suspension springs may be a violation of the integrity of the springs. This could be the result of mechanical ones.

Welcome!
Cardan shaft - thanks to this unit, the rear-wheel drive car drives. In most cases, the cardan, as popularly called it, is installed on cars with rear and all-wheel drive, but today we are not interested in all-wheel drive, because we will analyze the process of repairing the cardan only on cars of the "Classic" family.

Note!
To repair the propeller shaft, you will need to stock up on: The main set of wrenches, cap heads "for 11" and "for 27", as well as a crank, screwdriver, bit, hammer and pliers!

And you will also need to stock up on: Two mandrels for extrusion of bearings from the universal joint crosspieces, a marker, and you will also need a universal puller and pliers of the "Cobra" type!

And finally, it will come in handy: a torque wrench, a syringe inside which you will take grease, as well as a rubber hammer, a micrometer and a small set of flat probes!

Summary:

When should the propeller shaft be repaired?
Basically, it is subject to repair, with severe wear of the crosses and other parts that belong to the universal joint, for example, such as: Elastic coupling, intermediate support and other parts.

How to understand that the crosspieces have become unusable?
When braking or when accelerating the car, a knock will be heard in the cardan gear, or vibration of the bridge will appear - these are the first signs of wear.

Note!
If you find the first signs of wear on the universal joint, then it is not recommended to hesitate with its replacement, otherwise the cardan shaft may fall off later!

Note!
Before you start, remember! At the end of the article there is a video clip that clearly shows the repair of the gimbal, so if you do not understand something from the article, then proceed to watching the video clip!

First, remove the gimbal from the car. (How to remove the cardan shaft, see the article: "Replacing the cardan shaft")

1) Before starting the operation, use a marker to mark the relative position of some parts of the driveshaft, which include: Universal joint forks, etc.

Note!
This is to ensure that the balance of the propeller shafts is not disturbed during assembly!

2) Next, make two marks with a marker, make the first mark on all the retaining rings and the second at the places where they are installed. Once you have made the mark, use pliers to remove the retaining rings four at a time from each hinge.

Note!
This is to ensure that when reassembling, the circlips fit exactly as they were before!

3) Now, using mandrels and a vice, press the cross-piece bearing out of the universal joint yoke.

Note!
Basically, the bearings of the crosspieces are not completely pressed out, all this happens due to the fact that the crosspiece of the cardan joint rests against the fork, therefore, it will be necessary to remove the bearing using pliers of the "Cobra" type!

4) Next, disconnect the cardan joint and, as a result, unfold the cross-piece and remove it from the fork. After this operation, press out the cross-piece bearing indicated by the arrow.

Note!
Repeat steps 3-4 for the remaining two bearings, and therefore remove the crosspiece!

5) Then, using a bit and a hammer, loosen the nut that secures the fork of the front propeller shaft.

Note!
After the nut is unscrewed, unscrew it and after unscrewing with a special puller, remove the plug indicated by the arrow!

6) Next, carefully remove the dust reflector from the propeller shaft with a screwdriver.

7) Now the nut that you previously unscrewed, re-screw it flush (That is, at the same level) onto the threaded part of the shaft.

8) Next, press the universal joint support until it rests against the nut.

Note!
Apply force when pressing the support only to the inner ring of the bearing, which is indicated in the photo above by the arrow!

9) After the support rests against the nut, unscrew the nut and remove the support together with the bracket that is installed on it.

Note!
Pay special attention to the shoulders of its bracket when removing the support. See that one shoulder is shorter than the other? If you paid attention, before completely removing the support, mark its position relative to the propeller shaft!

10) Then install the intermediate support in a vice and unscrew the two bolts that secure the bracket to the support. After loosening the bolts, remove the bracket and the spring and flat washers that are under the bolts that secure the bracket to the support.

Note!
Replace the complete intermediate support with a new one if it is deformed, because its disassembly requires a special tool and special skills!

11) Next, check the condition of the support bracket bushings, to do this, first remove the spacer sleeve, and then remove the rubber sleeve indicated by the arrow.

12) Now move over to the flexible coupling and unscrew the three nuts that secure it to the front propeller shaft flange.

Note!
After loosening, remove the bolts with a bit and a hammer!

13) Next, remove the elastic coupling from the flange.

14) Next, with a screwdriver, unbend the three locking tabs of the flange gland cage, and then slide the cage towards the shaft, and the flange at this time remove the shaft.

15) And finally, remove the oil seal from the front universal joint, which is indicated by the number "1", and then remove the oil seal holder that you moved to the side of the shaft earlier.

Assembly:
The assembly of all parts is carried out in the reverse order of removal, but when assembling, it is important to remember a few basic rules:

1) Before installing the front universal joint fork, it is necessary to lubricate the splined part of the shaft itself and the fork itself with grease.

2) After installing the fork, tighten the nut that secures it with a torque wrench, and torque "79.4-98 N • m". After tightening the nut, lock it with a bit.

3) After installing the gland holder, the gland itself and the flange on the splined part of the cardan itself, fix the gland holder by bending three antennae of its fastening for this.

4) Next, lubricate the splined part of the front shaft with a syringe. Remove excess oil with a clean cloth. After lubricating the spline, unscrew the grease nipple and replace it with a plug.

Note!
But in fact, the grease nipple can be replaced with a plug, just the next time you lubricate the spline connection, you will have to clean the grease nipple from contamination!

5) Also lubricate the inner part of the bearings and the surface of the studs of the universal joints with grease.

Note!
To lubricate the bearings, it is recommended to use a special grease, which is purple in color and contains "Molybdenum Disulfide"!

6) When the cross bearings are installed, use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the end of each bearing and between the top edge of the groove.

Note!
The correct gap should be between "1.51-1.66mm". With the resulting gap, individually select the thickness of the retaining rings that can be measured with a micrometer for compliance!

7) When the circlips are installed, take a rubber mallet in your hands and use it to hit the universal joint forks several times.

Note!
Hit from different directions to ensure a good fit of the bearing races to the circlip!

Question?
Have you already managed to repair the cardan or did you prefer the services of a car service? (Write the answer in the comments)

Additional video clip:
For clarity, a video clip was prepared for you, which shows the removal and repair of the universal joint on cars of the "Classic" family.

Replacing the cross on a VAZ 2106 car is done by hand when this unit is worn out. Determine when it is necessary to dismantle the crosspiece on the VAZ 2106 can not only be a professional, but also the owner of the car. If, with a sharp press on the brake or gas, there is a knock in the cardan transmission, then the crosspiece needs to be replaced. Otherwise, the cardan with a gearbox will fail.

This is what this detail looks like.

On the VAZ 2106, auto mechanics are advised to change the crosspieces in the kit. In some cases, 3 crosses are changed at the shank. The best are German-made parts. Products from the following manufacturers are installed on the VAZ 2106.

Trialli with oil can. Made of steel and uniformly hardened over the entire surface. Such parts are capable of withstanding significant dynamic and statistical loads.
Kraft. Made of anti-corrosion stainless steel alloy. The manufacturer provides a warranty for the part.
Weber, GKN and other foreign manufacturers. The disadvantage of such products is the need to adjust the retaining rings.
Domestic products. Plus - an affordable price.

Replacing the crosspiece on a VAZ 2106 car provides for the dismantling of the cardan. To do this, you need a viewing hole or a jack. Removal and installation is carried out using keys "12", "13", "27" and a hammer.

The outboard bearing is fitted with a shrink disc and an old flange.The retraction spring is disconnected from the bracket with pliers, then it is dismantled. The cardan is jammed with a screwdriver. Unscrew the nuts, remove 1 end of the cardan. The strip and plate of the suspended structure are dismantled. The cardan is removed. The location of each part is noted so that the balance of the shafts is not disturbed. Retaining rings are removed. Using a puller or a vice, the bearing is removed. If an anvil is used for this, then the cover of the 2nd bearing should not rest against the plane of this device.

Cardan VAZ 2106 is turned 180 °. Similar actions are carried out with the 2nd bearing. If the process is carried out without a puller, then the blows are performed on the crosspiece or on the 2nd part of the cardan (with a transverse crosspiece). The bearing is pulled out of the fork. The cross-piece is disengaged. The puller is installed on the 2nd pair of bearings.Before mounting the cross, check it, apply grease to the parts. For lubrication use "Fiol" or another substance of similar action. The bearing housing is inserted into place, the forks are pressed in. Then, the retaining rings are installed. The forks are knocked with a hammer. All gaps between the bearing bottom and the ring disappear. To check the free movement of the main part, use a feeler gauge. The stroke should not exceed 0.04 mm. Otherwise, a ring with a larger diameter is installed.Rings come in 5 sizes, each with its own color. If the thickness of the part is 1.5 mm, then the product is not painted.Dismantling the universal joint for dismantling the crosspieceReplacing the spider involves installing a new outboard bearing. This procedure is carried out after dismantling the universal joint and crosspiece. Then unscrew the front shaft nut. The puller is fixed to the fork. With the help of a hammer, the fork is moved and pressed from the splines. The bolts for fixing the outboard bearing can be unscrewed with a key to "13".The main part is knocked out of the shaft. The assembly of the cardan is carried out in the reverse order. If the above process is carried out without dismantling the cardan, then an assistant will be required.about cars, auto repair, auto maintenance, driving, automatic transmission, engine, brakes, chargingReplacing the crosspiece VAZ 2107, 2106, as well as replacement of the outboard bearing VAZ 2107, 2106 produced on the removed gimbal.The cardan VAZ 2107, 2106 is factory-balanced, therefore, before removing and disassembling the cardan, mark with paint or a chisel the relative position of all removed parts. If the gimbal is not properly assembled and installed, vibration may occur.This article describes the work on replacing the VAZ 2107, 2106 crosspiece and work on replacing the outboard bearing VAZ 2107, 2106.1. We work on a viewing pit or a lift. Remove the spring of the parking brake cable. Image - DIY vaz 2106 cardan repair

2. We put marks at the joint of the cardan with the gearbox flange. Unscrew the four self-locking nuts with the "13" wrench. At the same time, we keep the gimbal from turning with a large screwdriver.

3. Remove one end of the gimbal.

4. We mark the relative position of the universal joint and the centering flange of the elastic coupling ...

5. Next, bend back the 4 retaining tendrils on the seal yoke near the elastic coupling ...

6.… and move the clip together with the seal towards the cardan shaft.

7. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts and remove the safety bar.

8. Holding the cardan, unscrew the two nuts with the key "13" and remove the outboard bearing plate from the studs attached to the body. It is fixed to the body through rubber washers.

9. We take out the universal joint from the slots of the flexible coupling flange and remove it.

10. Before disassembling the cardan, apply with a chisel or paint marks of the relative position of all cardan parts so as not to disturb the balance. The cross-pieces retaining rings must also be inserted into place.

11. We put marks on the relative position of the shafts and forks.

12. Remove the retaining rings.

13. Install the puller on the cross-piece fork and press out the needle bearing into the extractor cup until the cross-piece stops in the fork.

14. The bearing will come out of the fork only one third of its height.

15.Similarly, we press out the opposite bearing.

16. Resting the screwdriver against the edge of the bearing housing, completely knock out the pressed bearings from the fork.

17. We remove the cross from the fork.

18. We rearrange the puller to the crosspiece and similarly press out and remove another pair of bearings.

19. We put the seals on the crosspiece and install the plastic plugs.

20. Lubricate the bearings of the crosspiece with Fiol.

21. We insert the cross into the holes of the plug.

22. Using a puller, using a suitable spacer, press the bearing into the fork so that the bearing goes deeper than the groove under the circlip.

23. Insert the retaining ring. On the opposite side of the fork, press in the second bearing so that the first bearing rests against its retaining ring. Insert the second bearing retaining ring.

24. Further, with light blows of a hammer through a screwdriver or a barb, we drive the retaining ring to the end.

25. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the retaining ring and the bearing.

26. The gap should be 0.01-0.04 mm.

27. Retaining rings are available in five sizes in thickness, which have different colors: 1.50 mm - unpainted; 1.52 - dark brown; 1.56 - blue; 1.59 are black and 1.62 mm are yellow. We put rings of the required size in the crosspieces.

1. Remove the crosspiece and remove the rear universal joint.

2. Using the “27” head, unscrew, but not completely, the front universal joint fork nut.

3. We put the puller on the fork, resting it on the nut, and tighten the puller bolt creating a preload. If the fork does not move, we help it with light hammer blows. Thus, we gradually press the fork off the slots of the front universal joint.

4. Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the outboard bearing to the plate.

5. We rest the suspension on the corners and knock it out of the shaft through a spacer made of soft metal.

6. Assembly of the universal joint is carried out in the reverse order.

7. Install the cardan in the reverse order, lubricate the splines with Fiol-1 or Fiol-2U or SHRUS-4 grease and combine the marks made earlier.

8. After installing the splined part of the universal joint in the flange of the elastic coupling, we assemble the seal ring. We move the clip forward and use a screwdriver to bend the locking antennae in turn.

This article will focus on how how to replace the cardan transmission VAZ 2106 do it yourself, using an improvised tool in a garage.

The key is at "13".
Key for "19" 2 pcs.
Mounting blade.
Screwdriver.
Goatee.
Hammer
Special pliers for removing circlips.

Important tip: This job is best done in a viewing pit or lift. Hang out the rear wheel, in order to make it more convenient to turn the cardan transmission, if you install chocks under the wheels of a VAZ 2106 car in the inspection pit.

1. Lower the parking brake lever to the stop of the lever, set the gear shift knob to neutral.

2. Unscrew the fastening nuts securing the safety bracket to the body, then remove the washers (lock and flat) and remove the bracket.

3.Now it is necessary to unscrew the three fastening nuts of the bolts with which the elastic coupling is attached to the gearbox flange.

4. Remove in turn the bolts from the flange and coupling, gradually turning the propeller shaft.

Note: The bolts can only be pulled out in a specific flange position when the bolt is located at the top left of the coupling axis.

Important tip: If the bolts come out tight, use a barb.

5. Using a screwdriver, push the sleeve away from the flange, then lower it down.

6. Using a mounting spade, hold the propeller shaft from turning, with the other hand unscrew the four nuts of its flange fixing bolts, which fasten it to the flange of the driving gear of the VAZ 2106 rear axle reducer.

Note: The universal joint flange is attached to the pinion flange with special tapered head bolts and a self-locking bald nylon ring nut. Sometimes the bolt can turn, in which case, lock it using a screwdriver.

7. Separate the flanges with a screwdriver.

eight.Unscrew the two nuts that secure the intermediate support crossbars to the body of the VAZ 2106, then remove the washers.

9. Next, dismantle the cardan transmission, gradually moving it forward along the course of the car, while the rear shaft should pass over the handbrake cable.

10. The next step can be installed cardan transmission VAZ 2106, everything is put in the reverse order of disassembly.

Note: If you removed the elastic coupling, put it back so that the liners 2 coincide with the grooves 3 on the front propeller shaft flange and 1 on the gearbox output shaft flange.

Cool tip: When free, the flexible sleeve increases in outer diameter. New coupling kits always have a clamping strap. The clamp itself should be removed only after the cardan transmission is installed on the VAZ 2106 car. If there is no clamp, use a bit again to align the bolt holes in the flanges and the coupling.

In the photo, the cardan joint vaz 2106

For your information: The cardan shaft is a mechanism that transfers torque from the gearbox to the wheel drive. It is used in a variety of vehicles.
The main feature is a cardan transmission, invented by Gerolamo Cardano, which allows the transmission of torque between two non-parallel axes.
The main working part of the cardan transmission is the crosspieces. They also most often require replacement.
Cardan vaz 2106 contains two identical crosses. Our instructions will help you replace the VAZ 2106 crosspiece yourself, the replacement is quite simple, it will allow you to save on car service costs.

Replacing the crosspiece in the VAZ 2106 is carried out after diagnostics:

When, during fast acceleration or braking of the car, when shifting gears, a knock of the cardan transmission or vibration of the axle is heard, all this indicates wear of the crosspiece and its bearings. It is urgently required to replace the VAZ 2106 crosspiece, which has become unusable.
If you do not pay attention to these signs in time, then as a result - the destruction of the bearing and the loss of the cardan directly onto the road. The axle gearbox and the underbody of your car can also suffer.

Purchase a "VAZ" crosspiece, do not forget to purchase spare retaining rings (if they are not included in the kit), because old rings, as a rule, are deformed or broken.

Replacing the VAZ 2106 propeller shaft cross requires a tool:

Two open-end wrenches 13 and 12
Socket keys 27 and 13
Copper or Aluminum Extension
Hammer
Gripping pliers with fine jaws to remove the circlip
Two mandrels to press out the bearings of the universal joint crosspieces.
Universal puller
Mites
Chisel
Large screwdriver

Do-it-yourself replacement of the VAZ 2106 crosspiece is not possible without removing the cardan from the car.
So:

We remove the gimbal on a lift or a viewing hole. Disconnect the handbrake cable spring.
With a chisel, we apply marks at the junction of the universal joint and the gearbox flange. Using a 13 key, unscrew the nuts (there are four of them). Using a large screwdriver, we fix the gimbal from scrolling.
Remove the rear end of the gimbal.

Disconnect the gimbal from the bridge

We mark the position of the universal joint and flange with a chisel

Then we bend back the retaining tendrils of the seal holder near the rubber coupling
We shift the cage with the seal together towards the propeller shaft

Using the 13 head, unscrew the nuts and take out the safety bar
Supporting the cardan, unscrew the nuts with a 13 wrench and take out the plate that secures the outboard bearing from the studs. It is attached to the body with rubber washers.

Unscrew the nuts securing the outboard bearing

It is preliminary recommended to see how the VAZ 2106 crosspiece is replaced video.

We pre-mark the relative position of the parts (forks of the universal joint joints) so as not to disturb the factory balance of the universal joint shaft during assembly.
Then we mark the retaining rings and their seats.to install them in their original places during assembly. Remove the retaining rings (four from each hinge).

We take out the locking rings

Since the bearings are not pressed in completely (the cross of the hinge rests against its fork), we remove the bearing using pliers
Disconnect the universal joint by shifting its cross in the direction of the bearing removed, unfold the cross a little and remove it from the hinge fork.

Press out the opposite needle bearing from the hinge fork.
We carry out points 3 and 4 for other needle bearings and remove the cross.
We do the same with the second cross if necessary.

As you can see, replacing the cross with a VAZ 2106 with your own hands is not difficult.

Unlock the nut securing the front shaft fork. We unscrew it and press the fork with a puller from the front shaft.

Remove the dust reflector from the front shaft.
We screw the nut onto the thread of the front shaft so that it is flush with the shaft itself
We press the intermediate shaft support (we apply force to the inner bearing race) and unscrew the nut.
We remove the support from the propeller shaft together with the bracket

Tip: Remember the position of the shoulders - the long and short support bracket relative to the propeller shaft (it is better to outline the position of the support bracket relative to the propeller shaft).

We unscrew the bolts securing the bracket to the support, remove all washers and disconnect the bracket from the intermediate shaft support.

Tip: Disassembling the intermediate support requires special tools and certain skills, therefore, it is recommended to replace the intermediate shaft support assembly.

We thoroughly clean the parts with a brush before inspecting them.
To reject the driveline elements you will need: an internal gauge, a dial indicator.
Since we have removed the gimbal and disassembled (albeit partially), we check the integrity of the welded seams. Driveshaft splines so that they do not contain traces of wear
For the rear universal joint shaft, we check the presence of balancing weights, the condition of the seams and measure the diameters of the fork holes for the needle bearing. Dents in pipes, misalignment of the universal joint forks holes are not allowed.

Important: Be sure to measure the diameter of the holes of the universal joint forks, where the needle bearings become, so that it does not exceed 23.825 millimeters. Measurements are made with a dial gauge.

We check the condition of the needle bearings, oil seals, their cages and cross studs for damage and significant wear.

Note: A clear sign of a stud defect, upon detection of which the entire joint is replaced, are the longitudinal dents left by the bearing needles.

We check at the same time (while the cardan is removed) the condition of the rubber coupling of the cardan.
Cracks, mechanical damage or peeling of rubber from steel liners are not allowed.
We check the intermediate support for deformations. Cracks or ruptures of the elastic cage, as well as peeling of rubber are not allowed. We change the defective support assembly
We check the bearing of the intermediate support, turn its inner race in two directions, while pressing it against the outer race (the inner race should rotate smoothly). We check the bearing seals for mechanical damage.
We replace all defective parts.

We assemble the gimbal in reverse order, taking into account the features below:

Before installing the front shaft fork, grease the fork and shaft splines with grease.
Installing the front shaft plug, tighten the nut securing it with a torque wrench 8.1-10 kgf • m (79.4-98 N • m) and lock the nut with a chisel.
Installing the gland holder, the gland itself with the flange on the slots of the front universal joint, we fix the gland holder by bending its three "antennae".
Using an oil syringe, coat the splined part of the front universal joint.Remove excess grease with a rag.
Unscrew the grease nipple and screw in the plug instead.

Note: It is not necessary to change the grease nipple to the plug. just when you re-grease the spline connection, you will have to properly clean the oiler from the adhering dirt.

Lubricate the needle bearings and the surfaces of the universal joint cross studs with grease.

Tip: We recommend using a bearing grease (purple) containing molybdenum disulfide.

Having installed the bearing races, we determine the clearances between the end part of the bearings and the upper edge of the annular groove located on the hinge fork using a flat feeler gauge. The allowable gap is within 1.5-1.66 mm.

We select the retaining rings in thickness based on the obtained clearance values (we measure the rings with a micrometer).

After installing the rings, we apply a couple of blows with a rubber hammer on the forks of the hinge from the back sides (which ensures the adherence of the needle bearing clips to the locking rings and free movement of the cross).