DIY Niva cardan repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of Niva cardan shafts from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We remove the driveshaft (see the article - "Removing the driveshafts").

1.Using round nose pliers, remove the four retaining rings.

We mark the parts of the hinge so that they are placed in the same position during assembly.

2. Apply marks with quick-drying paint so as not to confuse the position of the hinge forks during assembly.

3. Can be marked with a chisel

4. We install a special puller on the hinge flange fork and press the bearing housing out of the fork seat until the crosspiece stops in the fork.

5. If there is no puller, then we support the cardan flange fork on the support (vise jaws), and through a suitable section of the pipe we hit the cardan shaft fork with a hammer, moving it down until it stops in the crosspiece.

In the same way, we press out the bearing housing located on the opposite side of the universal joint fork.

Leaning the propeller shaft plug on the jaws of the vice, alternately press the bearing housings out of the seats.

6. When pressing out, the bearing housings do not completely come out of the holes of the forks, therefore, even if you move the cross to the stop in the fork, the cross spike cannot be removed from the bearing housing.

7. To finally press out the bearing housing, you need to clamp the bearing housing in a vice so that it does not rotate in the vice jaws and grind the flats on the bearing housing with a grinder.

8. We grip the bearing housing by the made flats and, turning the propeller shaft around the bearing axis, remove the plug from the bearing housing.

9. Remove the flange with a cross. The housing of one bearing of the crosspiece, we also press out with the help of a grinder

Clamping the propeller shaft plug in a vise, use a punch to knock out the housing of the other bearing, which remains in the plug. Similarly, we knock out the bearing housing remaining in the flange.

Video (click to play).

Before installing a new crosspiece, we make sure that there is grease in the bearings - 0.8-1.2 g of Fiol-2U grease is put into each bearing.

We put the oil seals on the spikes of the cross-piece and insert the cross-piece into the sockets of the propeller shaft plug.

11. In a vice with soft metal jaw pads, press the bearing into the socket of the fork until its end stops in the jaw of the vice.

At the same time, we insert the spike spike into the bearing seat so that the bearing needles do not fall out.

In the process of pressing by swinging, we control the ease of rotation of the crosspiece in the bearing.

12. Using a suitable head or pipe piece, press the bearing into the fork seat deeper than the groove under the retaining ring.

13. Using round-nose pliers, install the retaining ring into the groove.

We also press the bearing into another seat of the shaft fork until the opposite bearing stops against the end of the retaining ring and install the second retaining ring.

Orienting the flange according to the marks relative to the propeller shaft fork, insert the spikes of the cross into the flange slots

14. Alternately press two bearings into the seats of the flange and install the retaining rings in its grooves

After assembling the universal joint, you need to tap with a hammer with a plastic striker on the fork and flange in order to choose the clearances between the ends of the bearing housings and circlips (see the article “Features of cardan shafts” for selecting the thickness of circlips). We check the ease of turning the universal joint.

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Lada "Niva" is the best domestic SUV, which is not devoid of a number of disadvantages. Any owner of this car knows what inconveniences arise when using all-wheel drive. In particular, the "Niva" has a rather unreliable transmission, of which the cardan transmission is also part. Due to imbalance or damage, the shafts create increased vibration when starting from a standstill and accelerating. Such vibration not only creates discomfort for the driver, but also destructively affects other parts of the car, reducing their service life.

Many experienced car owners advise not only to pay attention to the maintenance of the transmission, but also to replace the factory propeller shafts with better, well-balanced ones. This measure allows the driver to get rid of the need to constantly monitor, lubricate, tighten, and pay for balancing the transmission elements.

The propeller shaft must only be replaced by a workshop. Independent dismantling and installation of this element is allowed only in extreme cases, for example, when a breakdown occurred far from settlements.

Removal of the old propeller shaft is carried out using a spanner 13. Before carrying out work, you must put the car in the inspection pit or raise one of the rear wheels using a jack. For dismantling, it is necessary to unscrew all the fastening nuts, and then pull out the shaft, tapping, if necessary, on its base with a hammer. Installing a new part is carried out in reverse order. The bolts connecting the flanges must be tightened with great force.

If you want to replace any elements of the driveline, for example, a fork, flange, crosspiece, then the shaft will have to be balanced again. When removing, it is necessary to mark the relative position of the parts with paint, so that later, during assembly, they will be correctly combined. Otherwise, an imbalance may occur, which manifests itself at a speed of more than 60 km / h and negatively affects all parts of the car.

To buy a driveshaft for Niva at an affordable price or to repair an old one, contact CardanBalance. We will help you in the selection and installation of a new part, as well as give a guarantee for the work performed.

Welcome!
Cardan shaft crosses - firstly, about the cardan shafts, let's say right away, you already most likely know that the Niva car is equipped with two cardan shafts, unlike other cars, for example, unlike cars of the Classic family on which only one cardan shaft is present, in connection with this, there will be more crosspieces on the Niva (Two crosspieces per one driveshaft), therefore there will be a little more work, but as a rule, one kind of crosspiece fails from all four, and not all at once, but if you do not change it in time the crosspiece will break very quickly, the crosspieces are needed only in order to connect the joints of the cardan shafts (Simply if you directly connect the shafts, they can deform over time and bend, and this does not happen with the crosspieces, since the crosspieces can move) and therefore if one crosspiece fails, then a backlash appears at the shaft and it starts to spin unevenly, which leads to the exit of another cross fault of failure and loss of power in the car.

Note!
To replace the propeller shaft crosspiece, you will need to stock up on: Screwdrivers, as well as if there are thin pliers, then take them too, besides this, you will definitely need a set of all kinds of keys, and in general, no repairs are made without keys, well, a hammer with a punch made of mild steel (This began to include: Aluminum, copper, brass) and a vice will be needed (instead of them, a press is still possible)!

Read also: DIY laptop monitor repair

Summary:

Where are all the crosspieces of the propeller shafts located?
They are located at the bottom of the car, so you have to climb under the car in order to replace the crosses themselves or to see them at all, for clarity, a photo is placed just below that was taken from under the bottom of the car, two propeller shafts are visible on it (Indicated by red arrows ) and the places where all four crosses are located, these places are indicated by blue arrows, but unfortunately, one cross is not visible in the photo (it did not enter the frame), but as you climb under the car, you will immediately find it.

When do you need to change the crosspieces of the propeller shafts?
As soon as they become loose and play appears at one of the car's driveshafts, it is very easy to check this play, just climb under the car and exactly in the place where the crosspiece you are interested in, grab your hand and pull the driveshaft (Do not forget to lock it with a screwdriver , otherwise it will turn, or just hold the shaft with the first hand, and with the second hand, pull it from side to side in the place where you think the cross is worn out, if there is a backlash, then the cross needs to be replaced), but these are all checks, and the symptoms that the crosspiece has worn out will be as follows: Firstly, when starting off, as well as during sudden braking, when you also sharply press on the gas and when switching speeds, a knock may occur in the lower part (Where are the driveshafts ), if you constantly hear this knock, then it only says that some of the crosses have become unusable and also needs to be replaced.

Note!
As for the backlash at the crosspiece, we would like to tell you, if the bearings at the crosspiece become unusable (they break and the like), then this backlash will not even exist, so when you climb under the car, check the crosspieces for deformations on them, and even better You can inspect them by disconnecting the flanges together (For this, you just need to unscrew the nuts, as you read the article, you will understand what we are talking about)!

Note!
Before changing the crosses, we recommend that you remove the propeller shaft you need from the car, although some people do work on the installed propeller shaft, but this is very inconvenient (In this case, the propeller shaft is not installed in a vice, but a hammer and a spacer are simply taken from soft metal and a hammer blows into this very spacer and the bearing is thus pressed into the inside, after reading the entire article you will understand what we are talking about), so we recommend that you completely remove it and replace the crosspiece on the shaft removed from the car! (For how to remove the driveshaft from the car, read the article: "Replacing the driveshaft with a VAZ")

Withdrawal:
1) Let's start with the fact that all four crosses are replaced absolutely identically and therefore we will show an example of replacement only on one cross, in general, at the beginning you will need to remove all four retaining rings (The photo shows only one ring, it is also indicated by an arrow and the small photo shows how it looks) using thin pliers or something like them (you can also try to pick up the rings with a screwdriver).

Note!
If you still do not understand in what places all four rings are located, then we will explain right away, the cross has four ends (In the photo below, only two ends of the cross are visible, they are indicated by red arrows) for that it is called a cross (From the word cross), on at each end of the cross there are retaining rings (they hold the bearings so that they do not fall off) and those same bearings are located under the rings, for clarity, one of the bearings is indicated by a blue arrow and in a small photo the bearing removed is shown to all this!

2) After the rings are removed, take chalk, or a felt-tip pen, or a chisel with a hammer in your hands and apply two marks in order to know how to install the flange on the propeller shaft during assembly, the marks must be applied in two parts, namely, as you already see in the photo below, put one mark on the flange itself, and the other on the propeller shaft housing (The mark that is applied to the housing is indicated by a red arrow).

Note!
When all the bearings are knocked out and the cross is removed from you, take a fine-grained skin or a file and use them to remove all the rust that has formed in the places where the bearings were installed, for clarity, one of these places is indicated in the photo below with a red arrow!

Installation:
A new cross is installed in its place, in the reverse order of removal, that is, first the cross is put on, only then the bearings from the reverse side are pressed onto it, they are pressed with a vice, so as soon as you installed the cross, put it in a vice and into the holes from above insert the bearings themselves and press them inward until they pass the gap into which the retaining ring is inserted (This is the ring that locks them), as soon as this gap has passed, stop pressing the bearing in and go to another, but there is one But! In a vise, you will not be able to press the bearing straight down to the stop, since the vise will not rest against it when it is level with the fork body, so in this case take a union head or a pipe segment (indicated by an arrow) of a suitable diameter and as shown in In the small photo below, press the bearing itself inside, until it passes the same gap into which the retaining ring you install.

Note!
All bearings in the manner described above, using a piece of pipe and a vise, press them inward and then, in addition, lock them with retaining rings, besides this, do not forget about the mark that you made earlier regarding the fork and the propeller shaft housing (Both marks will have to when assembling, converge with each other), well, also check the grease in the bearings, usually the manufacturer saves and does not put grease in the bearings practically at all, we recommend you a little in this case (if you do not have grease or if it is not enough) grease the bearings ( You don't need much, a little straight), with the help of Fiol-2U grease and after that, install all the bearings in their places, after installation, check how the fork rotates, nothing should jam, creak, everything should rotate normally!

Additional video clip:
A visual video that shows the process of replacing this cross is shown below, be sure to watch it and you will understand everything perfectly.

Video (click to play).

Sores come out. The oil seal of the rear axle reducer shank ran. 100 rubles stuffing box, knob, unscrew the nut of the shank and the escutcheon to help. Everything changes in half an hour. The front gimbal chattered, it dangles very much, just a very large backlash. I understood where the hum after 70 was coming from. As I didn’t notice it before, I don’t understand. The crosspieces are all right, the salenblocks are also intact.

I decided to remove the cordan backlash, as in the first Niva. He took it off, disassembled it on the slot.

With a grinder, I cut four cuts on the short part of the cardan, after 90 degrees. Through cuts, with a cut-off wheel, but not to the edge. I put it on the splines, pre-lubricated with the CV joint and welded on the assembled cardan. It pulled along the penetrations so that I had to clamp it in a vice to disassemble the cardan. He cooled it in the air, lubricated the CV joint, developed it, drove everything back and forth along the slots, and assembled it. Put it in place. The luftik remained, but stopped hanging out.

It remains to check on the go. 70-80-90 there is no vibration, it is not comfortable to go faster, but I achieved my goal, removed the vibration.

On the way, the right front bearing, once again I think to tighten up praises, and then a replacement. I think for an imported analogue.

Cardan on CV joints, we independently remove and repair

Niva Chevrolet. Personal experience. CV joints.

6. We measure from below

The photographs show that the difference in measurements from the right-to the left is 6-7 mm!
In terms of an angle, this gives:
(delta beta) = arcsin (dL / 2R) = arcsin (7/160)

Is it a lot or a little? Let's try to fix it, but we'll see.

The first thing we do is try to move the checkpoint to compensate for the break in the horizontal plane. Loosen the fasteners of the 3rd support, raise the jack higher, insert the oblique spacer under the gearbox support and slowly lower the body. Due to the fact that the holes in the support are slightly wider than the studs (oh, fractions of a millimeter!), It was possible to slightly compensate for the difference, but not completely.The rest will be eliminated with gaskets under the checkpoint and the transfer case.

Looking ahead, I will say that everything about everything took almost 4 hours. Mainly due to
the fact that at first I tried to calculate the necessary actions logically, solving in my mind “the problem of 8 nuts in three dimensions”. But the result was often far from what was expected. Then I just spat on the calculations and began to act with the usual enumeration of options.

Let's just say, let go of one side of the RK by a third of the stud, twisted the washer in 5th gear with RK in neutral, and looked at what happened. Then another third - and so on.
It is clearly noticeable how, at the first moment of engaging the clutch, a characteristic
short-term vibration, while the distributor, which is lowered and hanging on the rubber coupling, is centered and retracted, compensating for the new angle.

This had to be repeated many times until the necessary gaps were found between the body and the gearbox support, the body and the RK brackets, different on the right and left, by the way.
It should be noted that the “dynamic centering” is rather rough, in the sense that there are many positions of the RK, in which there will be no vibration with a transfer case in neutral. Therefore, you can not hesitate and leaving the engine on in gear, go down into the hole and push the handles in the right direction with the handles.
And so many, many times, until one day the measurements give an acceptable result, and
there will be no vibration in neutral.

I did not succeed in completely reducing the discrepancies to zero, the difference in three points in the end did not exceed 2 mm. Then it is necessary to fill the gaps with the required number of gaskets, once again make sure that there is no vibration in the neutral, take the last measurements and tighten the nuts.
It makes no sense to do this with the rear universal joint (on the "Crocodile"), because it is connected to the transfer case through an intermediate shaft with a constant velocity joint.

Theory is theory, but until you come across it yourself. I didn't even hope for SUCH.
The vibration is gone. RK handles stand rooted to the spot, at speeds up to 100-105 km / h -
I haven't been able to try any more, I specially went to the Rowing Canal, and there it was
on this day, in the middle of the straight section, there was an ambush of the traffic police :))). There is a small
trembling of the handles of the RK at speeds of 50-60 km / h. Let's try to fight it as soon as the leg muscles stop hurting, or maybe not worth it.

There is only one “BUT” left.
Now the RK is slightly skewed relative to the longitudinal axis of the machine.
Why was there no need for such “shamanism” before?
What happened to my "Crocodile" after the checkpoint was repaired?
I do not know yet.

Happy end of the story with cardan shafts.
Better late than never, as they say. Everything turned out to be very simple, and no mysticism.
Suspected cause is loose engine mount nuts. Apparently, "the guys in the dirty
overalls ”, when they put the checkpoint for the second time, they turned the whole economy on one side. And there is not much needed.
I installed the razdatka evenly, loosened the mountings of the pillows even more and slightly
turned the engine, along with the RPM. Small clearances in the support brackets allow
do it. The control is the same for the parallelism of the RPM and RK flanges.

The transfer case of the Niva car and some other off-road vehicles is designed to distribute the torque of the wheels both between the axles and between different wheels of the same axle. This is done in order to increase cross-country ability on particularly difficult sections of the track. In the language of specialists, this device is called a "demultiplier".

The location of the transfer case in the car Niva 21213

The transfer case takes an intermediate position in the vehicle transmission between the gearbox and the propeller shaft. It has its own body in which its component parts are located.

The distribution box helps to realize the capabilities of the SUV, such as:

Center differential lock.
Disconnection of the driving axle.
Increasing the torque of the driving wheels.
Distribution of torque along the wheel axles.

Violation of the normal operation of the transfer case of the VAZ-21213 can be assumed by the following signs:

Delays when connecting the front wheel drive.
Overheating of the transfer case.
High consumption of transmission oil.
Spontaneous disengagement of the front axle.

There is nothing fundamentally complicated in the device of the demultiplier, except that it itself is not attached to the main gearbox as on more modern all-terrain vehicles. Intermediate propeller shafts extend from the transfer case to the manual transmission. The rest of the device is represented by gears, satellites and bearings. Also included in the design is a free differential with a lock.

The machine must be installed on an inspection pit or lift.
The transfer case levers are set to neutral.
The lining of the central floor tunnel is removed.

The tunnel cover must be removed to gain access to the hatch of the transfer case levers

Handles and covers of all levers are neatly removed

We get access to the insides of the dispenser

It is necessary to remove the sensor connected to the speedometer from the distributor

Drive shafts fit to the front and rear transfer case

When removing the box, the main thing is not to overdo it.

Install the engine mount brackets correctly.
Install the transfer case without tightening the bolts of its fasteners to the end.
The flanges of the drive shaft of the box must match the intermediate propeller shaft.
Install the transfer case supports and secure the fasteners.
Connect the transfer case to the front and rear driveshafts, reinstall the differential lock sensor.

Centering the demultiplier can be done in different ways. The classic version of centering is that the car is installed on a lift or a viewing hole, and all operations are performed by two people, one of whom is sitting behind the wheel. The procedure is performed as follows:

The fourth gear turns on, the blocking is turned off.

We put the distributor in neutral position, turn on the 4th gear of the manual transmission

To center the range with a 15 key, weaken the fasteners

The assistant gets the whole brunt of the centering work, it takes strength and dexterity

Repair and alignment of the dispensing unit should be carried out subject to experience and knowledge in the field of construction and repair of a specific transmission of four-wheel drive machines. The demultiplier must be centered after each reinstallation. The correct position of the box is judged by the presence of vibration.

We remove the driveshaft crosspieces without using a puller on a NIVA 21214 car. I would like to say right away that if you do not have the appropriate experience in repairing, then it’s better not to start, but go to the service, or buy a special puller, which will be much easier. Some call the method a little "barbaric", but it has passed more than one test, showing its effectiveness. There is another more gentle way, but it is long and dreary.

Video removal of the crosspieces of the NIVA 21214 cadan shaft:

In our auto services, they usually hit the cardan with all their might with a hammer, without even cleaning, as a result, the balance is disturbed.Adjusting the front axle of the niva is one of the key operations that ensures comfortable and trouble-free travel on roads of any quality.The need to adjust the elements of the front axle is assessed by the presence of noise and vibrations that occur in various operating modes of the VAZ 21214. So, conditionally acoustic signs can be divided into two groups:
• Registered constantly;
• Fixed during deceleration by means of internal combustion engine or acceleration.By nature, sounds can resemble:
• Howl (wear of the main pair);
• Crunch, "trolleybus" hum (destruction or hauling of the liner bearings, loose nut of the drive shaft, axle shaft bearings, incorrect adjustment of the gears of the main gearbox);
• Intermittent "scuffing" (differential bearing).
The complexity of diagnostics in this case lies in the abundance of extraneous noise emitted by other parts of the car.To carry out adjustment work on the front axle, the manufacturer provides special pullers, mandrels and devices. However, due to their limited distribution and high cost, their presence is not necessary, although it is desirable to save time and accuracy of tuning.
Since the main parts of the RPM correspond to similar elements of the REM, the correspondence of the technological clearances and the procedure for carrying out repair operations is traced.The main stage is preceded by preparation, including:
1. Drain the oil from the RPM through the drain hole;2. Disconnecting the propeller shaft with a key 133. Removing the right wheel drive.4. Dismantling the lower ball joint on the left side.5. Removal of suspension braces.6. Removing the gearbox from the brackets on the right and left using the stop.This is followed by disassembly of the gearbox, thorough cleaning of surfaces from dirt and grease, and troubleshooting of components.

To carry out the operation, the original device A.95690, mandrel A.70184 or an analogue made according to the drawing are used.The seating plane of the crankcase is positioned so that it takes a horizontal position. Then an absolutely flat metal bar is installed on the bearing bed. The distance from the bar to the mandrel is measured by inserting adjusting rings from a set in 0.05 increments into the gap under the bar. The measured value (base of the crankcase) is consistent with the correction applied to the pinion.
When reassembling the assembly, it is recommended that the standard spacer be discarded to prevent re-repair. Instead, a non-deformable steel sleeve with a length of 48 mm is suitable (with a margin, if necessary, shorten it).During turning, the parts control the force when turning the gear (should be 157-196 N · cm), for bearings with mileage, a torque of 39.2–58.8 N · cm is valid. The use of a proprietary dynamometer 02.7812.9501 is optional.Acceptable accuracy will be provided by a household steelyard. When working with it, wind one end of a 1 m long cord around the flange, and fasten the other to the balance. Lock the torque by pulling the device in a perpendicular direction. So, new bearings should provide 7-9 kg, and with mileage - 2-3 kg.The process involves replacing the support washers with new ones - thicker than before. A choice of 7 standard sizes with a step of 0.05 mm in the range of 1.8-2.1 mm. Washers material - bronze or steel. In this case, the gears are installed tightly, but with the ability to turn manually.In accordance with the instructions, the lateral clearance and bearing preload are adjusted using the A.95688 / R tool.In its absence, a vernier caliper of a suitable size will perform the given role.To ensure the required preload, the distance relative to the bearing caps is recorded at the beginning of the tightening and at the end of it. The required difference between the values is 0.2 mm.The lateral clearance is adjusted by bringing the driven gear to the leading one until it disappears. Initially, one of the nuts is in a free position, the other (working) is tightened. After eliminating the gap, gradually tighten the baited nut until the jaws of the caliper move apart by 0.1 mm.
The backlash adjustment stops when a slight knock of the teeth appears. Then both nuts are evenly tightened to a distance of 0.2 mm. The correctness of the work performed is evidenced by a uniform backlash at any position of the gears.