DIY stealth bike carriage repair

In detail: do-it-yourself stealth bike carriage repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

You will need a tool to remove the carriage.

As discussed in the previous article, a bicycle bottom bracket is a bearing assembly that connects the crankset to the frame and provides a torque function to the bicycle crankset. The carriage is located in the bottom bracket of the frame, which is located between the down tube and at the intersection of the chain stays. Because the bottom bracket is located at the very bottom of the bike and when the bike is in use throughout all seasons of the year, it is often exposed to external influences such as saws, dirt, moisture, etc. Over time, in the area of the bottom bracket "crunching" may occur, backlash, clicking and the carriage begins to go out of its usual work - the smoothness and accuracy of work decreases, sometimes even jamming may occur. All of this can be corrected with carriage maintenance.

Closed-type carriages (cartridge) cannot be repaired, therefore, if problems arise with this type of carriage, it simply changes to a new one. But the carriages of an open type (collapsible) lend themselves to maintenance, since they are a shaft (axle) that rotates with the help of bearings that are installed in the carriage cups and screw directly into the carriage cup of the bicycle frame. Therefore, they can be easily removed, lubricated, bearings replaced and reassembled, or simply replaced with an old carriage with a new one.

scheduled carriage maintenance (lubrication and bulkhead);
elimination of backlash of the carriage;
tight rotation of the carriage axis;
extraneous sounds in the area of the carriage assembly.

Video (click to play).

In this article, we will cover the maintenance of Shimano open bottom bogies. The carriage can be with loose bearings, so be careful when removing, as the balls can scatter in different directions, as well as in the form of a non-separable cartridge.

After removing fixing bolts, with the help of squeezing the connecting rods, we twist the puller with the threaded part into the connecting rod until it stops, but here you need to tighten it progressively and without much effort so as not to break the thread. We remove the connecting rod from the carriage axis and wipe the seats. After removing the connecting rods from the carriage shaft, it is necessary to remove the carriage itself, for this you will need shimano bottom bracket puller.

If you have a different carriage type, you will need other carriage pullers. In addition to the puller for shiamno, there is also a puller for integrated carriage cups and is suitable for HOLLOWTECH II, GXP, Howitzer. Another ISIS Bottom Bracket Puller with 8 Spline Puller Mount and is suitable for Shimano, Truvativ and SRAM. All types of pullers can also be equipped with handles, and you do not need an adjustable wrench.

When unscrewing the carriage, it must be remembered that the carriage must be removed from the left side, that is, from the side where there are no stars on the connecting rod. We take a puller, insert it into the carriage slots on the left side and turn it counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench. It is very important to avoid any distortions of the stripper when unscrewing the carriage cups, so as not to damage the cup itself and the stripper.

After the carriage has been removed, it is necessary to check the carriage cup for dirt, sand and other things that could get there, both through the carriage and the seat tube of the bicycle.

ISIS standard carriage puller.

If you have an integrated carriage, then you can change the industrial bearings by replacement proms... To check the condition of the industrial bearings, remove the boot and see the old bearings.They can be removed with a special puller for internal bearings, or disposed of with a hammer and chisel (not recommended). We clean and lubricate the seat, after which we install new industrial bearings.

Before installing the carriage, wipe and lubricate all threaded connections.

When assembling the carriage, the main thing is put the cups correctly... Let me remind you that they have different threads, namely, the right cup has a left-hand thread, and the left one has a right-hand thread. Before installing the carriage, grease the carriage cup, bearings and cup threads with grease. The assembly of the carriage must be started from the right side. To begin with, we insert the carriage axis into the right cup and twist it with a carriage puller, and then the left one until it stops. After the carriage cups have been screwed in, it is necessary to check the carriage for any backlash (the carriage should rotate easily and silently). To do this, we twist the carriage axis in different directions. Be careful and make sure that the cup runs smoothly along the thread, as it is very easy to damage it. We put in place the connecting rods and fixing screws.

For repair and maintenance of the bike at home, we recommend using special stands.
What cycling tools every self-respecting cyclist should have
Does your bike squeak when you pedal? my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3085/skripit-velosiped

The bottom bracket is a bearing assembly on a bicycle that connects the crankset to the frame. Thanks to the bearings inside the carriage, the system can rotate freely. Through the carriage, the torque from the pedals is transmitted to the bicycle wheel.

The carriage is located in the carriage glass of the frame, where it is either screwed in or pressed in. Because the bottom bracket is located at the very bottom of the bike (between the downtube and the intersection of the bike chainstays), the bottom bracket itself is highly susceptible to dirt. Such a negative external influence over time affects its work: there are "crunching", clicking, backlash, jamming. To prevent these negative consequences and exclude the possibility of failure of the carriage, it is necessary to regularly carry out its maintenance.

closed (cartridges or capsules), in which the bearings and axle are a single non-separable unit (although there are several separable models). Such carriages cannot be repaired or serviced. In case of any problems with operation, the faulty carriage is replaced with a new one. However, it should be noted that closed carriages are less prone to contamination;

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open (collapsible) are a shaft rotating in bearings that are in the cups.

The latter, in turn, are screwed directly into the bottom bracket of the bicycle frame. This type of carriage is serviceable and can be easily removed, lubricated, sorted out and reassembled. If necessary, it can also be replaced with a new one.

Maintenance of a bicycle bottom bracket includes disassembly, lubrication, installation and adjustment.

Next, let's take a look at the bottom bracket removal process using the example of a Shimano open bottom bracket.

When removing the carriage, you need to be careful, since it can be with loose bearings, which, when removed, can fly apart in different directions.

To remove the connecting rods from the carriage axle, you need a tool such as a connecting rod squeeze. This tool has two functions: its right side is intended directly for pressing the connecting rod out of the carriage axle, and the connecting rod fixing bolt is removed by means of the left side.

First, using a pedal wrench, unscrew the connecting rod tightening bolts located at the end of the carriage shaft. The plastic plugs (if present) can be easily removed from the bolts using a standard flat-blade screwdriver.

After removing the fixing bolts, proceed to the connecting rods. We take the squeeze of the connecting rods and screw the puller with the threaded part into the connecting rod until it stops.It is very important not to overdo it with pressure, so as not to disrupt the thread. Having successfully removed the connecting rods from the carriage axis, do not forget to wipe the seats.

Then, using a special puller, we remove the carriage itself. In our case, we are using a Shimano bottom bracket remover. A suitable puller is available for each individual carriage model. So, for Hollowtech II, Howitzer, GXP carriages, a puller for integrated carriage cups is used, and for Shimano, SRAM and Truvativ carriages, a so-called ISIS standard carriage puller can be used. It is worth noting that the set of pullers often includes handles, which frees you from the need to additionally use an adjustable wrench.

It is important to know that the carriage is removed only from the side where there are no stars on the connecting rod, that is, on the left.

So, we insert the puller into the carriage slots on the left side and twist it with a handle or an adjustable wrench counterclockwise. In the process, you need to ensure that there are no distortions of the puller. Otherwise, he or the bowl itself may be damaged.

After the carriage bowl is unscrewed, you need to perform the same actions on the right side. Only in this case you need to turn the handle clockwise! As a result of such simple actions, the carriage will be removed and ready for service or replacement.

Want to see how to remove the crankset and bottom bracket? Watch the video review:

After removing the carriage, check the condition of the carriage glass for contamination.

The condition of the bearings in the carriage cup is checked: both the bearings and their seats are wiped with a clean cloth from the remnants of old grease.

The carriage thread is washed with kerosene, gasoline or WD-40 and wiped off with a dry cloth.

The seats are lubricated with a small amount of grease.

Bearings are put in, and a little more grease is added. If necessary, old bearings must be replaced.

But, as is often the case, inexpensive bike parts do not have a very long lifespan. So, on our Stels, a knock appeared in the front carriage, subsequently - a backlash of the connecting rods.

When the chain slipped off while driving, it became clear that repairs were indispensable. Therefore, having studied the issue, we decided to disassemble the carriage and eliminate the cause of the backlash. It turned out that it is almost impossible to do this without special knowledge, so we decided to share our experience in this article so that people who are faced with this problem can quickly fix a similar situation.

The first step was to turn the bike upside down and remove the plastic carriage plugs. The nuts screwed onto the shaft became visible.

They can only be unscrewed with a pipe wrench of 15. But, as it turned out, unscrewing the nut is the easiest thing to do.

Next, you need to remove the connecting rods. They are pressed onto the carriage shaft. To remove them, you need to use a special puller. You can buy it at shops that sell bike parts. If you do not have one, do not waste your time, it is unlikely that without a puller it will be possible to remove the connecting rod without damaging the bike parts. The price of the puller is small, so it's better to buy than to do something like that yourself.

Having screwed the puller into the connecting rod until it stops, a special pin must be screwed into it (into the puller). He, resting on the carriage shaft, will squeeze the connecting rod from the seat.

Remove the opposite connecting rod from the bike in exactly the same way.

Now you need to unscrew the nuts that hold the carriage in the frame. From the side of the asterisk, this operation is extremely inconvenient to do. The protrusion of the nut is so narrow that both a regular open-end and a gas wrench jump off it. In our case, a chisel and a hammer helped. With a precise strong blow, you need to move the nut from its place, then it can be easily unscrewed with a wrench. Here it is imperative to know that the thread of the nut on the side of the sprocket is reverse, that is, it must be unscrewed clockwise.

The opposite nut has protrusions for a special key, so it is much easier to unscrew. The thread on it is ordinary, it is unscrewed counterclockwise.

Taking out the carriage, it became clear that the rubber sealing rings had broken and the bearing had collapsed.

In the store, a cartridge was purchased to replace the usual carriage. This is a more modern mechanism, which is produced as an assembly, in one piece. The cartridges differ in different shaft lengths, therefore, in order not to be mistaken, it is necessary to measure the length of the carriage shaft removed from the bicycle. The main thing is not to buy the cheapest parts, but to choose a cartridge from a well-known manufacturer. Then it will serve for a long time.

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To avoid loosening the nut, I purchased a thread lock. They are sold in car stores.

Before putting the connecting rod on the square, lubricate it with grease - this will allow it to be inserted further, and it will be easier to remove it next time. In order to better dress it, you can put a plank on top and tap the connecting rod with a hammer.

Then lubricate the thread with the lock and screw on the nut.

Now the most important thing is that the nut should be tightened with great effort until the moment when you can no longer tighten it. In order to tighten the nut more, you can put a tube on the wrench, thus lengthening the lever. Most importantly, do not be afraid to rip off the threads - if the axle is of high quality, this will never happen.

In the same way, we put on the connecting rod on the right side. The main thing is not to forget to put a chain on the smallest sprocket, and then screw the connecting rod.

We insert the plugs and that's it - the carriage is assembled. Remember that the fixative cures completely after 24 hours. Better to wait a day, and then go for a walk with peace of mind.

This simple operation can be done in an hour and a half, and even faster during the second and third disassembly!

One of the most practical and healthy means of transport is the bicycle. However, its maintenance can cost you a pretty penny if you do not know how to repair at least minor breakdowns.

In such cases, it is simply necessary to have such skills as attention to detail and accuracy, since they will help you to repair or disassemble any part, for example, the rear hub of a bicycle wheel.

One of the most important parts of a bicycle is its wheel. In particular, the rear wheel is much more loaded than the front wheel, since it is on it that the ratchet (freewheel mechanism) and the cassette (sprocket block) are installed. The wheel is the main focus when driving, so it is important to understand the design of its hub in order to be able to properly maintain it.

The hub is a wheel element, fixed to the bike frame, namely the drop points. This is the central part of the wheel that allows it to rotate freely.

The bushing consists of elements such as:

One of the reasons for dividing the rear hubs into varieties is their design. Depending on it, the rear bushings are divided into:

Without brake.
With built-in brakes.

It should be said that bushings that are not equipped with a braking mechanism are also divided into those without free play and with free play. With an integrated foot brake, the hubs are designed with free play. If we are talking about the version of the hub with a brake mechanism, then their main feature is that the pedals must be pressed in the opposite direction to stop the bike.

According to the method of fixing, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or they can be fixed with an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts must be removed with a wrench, and in order to remove the wheel on the eccentric, it is enough to squeeze its handle. It only takes a couple of seconds.

The material of manufacture also matters. Bushings are:

Aluminum (lightweight and non-corrosive).
Steel (strong but heavy and highly corrosive).

The bushings also differ in the size of the axle, the standards are different - from 9mm to 15mm. Keep in mind that the larger the sleeve, the heavier it is.

For the correct operation of the wheel and its main parts, incl. bushings, it must be kept in good condition at all times. It needs lubrication, and its body needs to be tightened periodically.In addition, replacing the bearing balls and adjusting the pads on the brake sleeve will not interfere.

Rear hub service is essential as in cases where this does not occur, the entire wheel may need to be repaired. Therefore, it is best to take care of your bike in the long run. It should be noted that servicing the rear hub is not much more difficult than servicing the front hub.

It is necessary to carry out maintenance in such cases:

If you hear body noise when the bike is moving or wobbling.
Backlash.
If the bearings crunch.
Poor rolling dynamics.

If you do not pay attention to the above signs of "illness" of your bike and use it for a long time if they are present, it can quickly fail.

Repair, in turn, will be much more expensive than simple wheel maintenance, which you can do yourself. Therefore, at the beginning of each season, check the wheel for play and that the bearings are not too tight.

Before proceeding with the disassembly of the case, it is necessary to clean the workplace, since it is very important to carry out all stages very carefully and with utmost care.

First, remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the circlip and remove the washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in the details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

After lubrication, the bushing must be reassembled. To properly assemble the rear hub, you must adhere to the following rules:

We insert the axis so as not to confuse which side is the right side of the axis, which is fixed tightly. The axis is adjusted with the left cone.
Next, put the left cone on the axle until it stops.
We put on the washers.
We screw on the lock nut.
We adjust the bearings.

Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace of unnecessary tools, things that are not useful to you.
Remove the retaining ring.
Remove the hub axle. First, remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.

Most often, the repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either with backlash or when tightening the cone. So, step by step instructions:

Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace of unnecessary tools, things that are not useful to you.
Loosen the lock nut with a wrench.
Loosen or tighten the flare nut.
Tighten the locknut into place.

If the cause of the breakdown is a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it using the following recommendations:

After checking the workplace, remove the retaining ring.
Remove the hub axle. First, remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.
We check the details for a malfunction.
We replace the broken part.
We put all the parts in place, tighten the flare nuts and the locknut.

Bicycle wheel breakage occurs for various reasons. There can be a large number of them.

The main ones are:

Insufficient or no bushing maintenance.
Loose bushing (backlash).
Poor bushing parts.
Wear.
Padding the cone.

Thus, to ensure the long service life of your bike, you should devote a certain amount of time to it. The basis of a bike's long-term service is maintenance. You can do this yourself, with your own hands. The main thing in this is to observe safety precautions and carefully approach the matter, since every detail is important in the sleeve mechanism.

To service the bushing, it is necessary to remove all parts, lubricate, first removing all old grease. And then carefully re-install all parts in the reverse order. In this case, you should carefully consider the tightening of the locknuts and flare nut, so as not to overtighten them. In addition, there are different types of rear bushings.

In order to popularize the rides of Velokursk among the fair sex, the authors decided to create a repair artel “for girls - for free”
But after completing the carriage replacement operation, we decided to temporarily suspend accepting new orders.

To add to the excellent report, the physical mass of the mighty grip was a two-to-one ratio to the mass of the bike. The vices weighed about 40 kg and there was also a question, which is easier: to twist a large, loose 20 kg led around them, or a compact, but heavy vice around led

Although initially I did not like any of the options, but this method, proposed by APro, gave an excellent result in the form of the first movement of the cup stuck and rusted in the frame. In the process of unscrewing it, we more than once had a desire to find a grinder and either modify the splines (so that there was something to grab onto), or even cut it carefully to hell. But the grinder was still not there, and what was captured as a couple of photographs of twisting one right cup took about half an hour.

A lot of interesting and funny things remained behind the scenes, and most of the fact that many of the work was done together and there was simply no one to take pictures. For example, how APro and I tried to stretch an elastomeric suspension fork on an atom, which is stuck in a failed position

Having steamed up late into the night with these Auchan bikes, we once again made sure that a cheap bike of this class cannot be bought in any case: not the first, not for children, or any other. The most ashanistic lead (blue, some completely complete noname of a terrible look), we left for later. Every time I looked at him yesterday, I had a nervous smile on my face and a desire to take and throw him entirely with a beautiful sweeping gesture (and weight> 20 kg) from the highest mountain into the deepest abyss, and then for a long time to watch the endless fall there, as he will beat against the rocks and chipping pieces from them fly with them further into the darkness of Hades

Tonight we plan to continue the epic bike hentai - it's generally pessimistic, but very fun.

In the evening program:
1. The Scariest Auchan bike
- Threaded steering bulkhead
- bulkhead carriage
- change of the ratchet
- chain change
- change of pedals
- removal of a kilogram footboard
- removal of bolted iron horns

2. Not the worst Auchan bike (red Stealth, the main character of yesterday)
- replacement of the ratchet
- chain replacement
- change of pedals
- replacement of shirts and cables
- customization

3. Not even an Auchan bike (blue Atom)
- bulkhead elastomer plug
- replacement of the ratchet
- replacement of the cassette
- adjustment

Video (click to play).

PS: to the photos from the APro report, especially where there is steam from boiling water, armature, an ax and other obviously not a bicycle tool - I just want to add a signature below in the style: “All work in this program is performed by professional bicycle mechanics. Don't try this at home! ”