In detail: DIY repair of a frame house from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
In our country, until recently, mainly houses were built from a log frame, brick or concrete, but now the time has come for new technologies, and frame houses have appeared in this segment. They are very popular due to their unique combination of high quality and low financial costs. But the main thing is the ability to make a durable frame house with your own hands without the use of special equipment. Therefore, we have made detailed step-by-step instructions for you.
The guide itself consists of 7 steps:
- choosing a place for a home;
- design;
- installation of the foundation;
- frame assembly;
- walling;
- thermal insulation;
- roofing.
The construction of a frame house has the main advantage over other technologies - the rapid pace of construction without the involvement of special lifting mechanisms. Inexpensive frame frames are put into operation in one season, but this speed in no way worsens the comfort and quality of living - these parameters are no worse than those of wooden and stone houses.
In accordance with the urban planning regulations of the Russian Federation, your residential building must be at a distance of at least 3 m from the official border of the site. Also, in most cases, local regulations regulate a 5-meter indent from the red line of the street to the house.
It should be noted that all frame frames belong to the IV and V degrees of fire resistance, therefore, in accordance with fire regulations, the distance from your building to the house in the neighboring area should be at least 10 meters.
The rest of the requirements for the placement of the house are presented in this image:
Video (click to play). |
According to the Federal Law, the developer must be guided by a project created by professional design organizations. The prepared documentation must also be approved by authorized officials of various services, where changes and / or additions can be made.
In fact, local authorities require only a preliminary design, including a general layout scheme, plans, section, facades and basic technical and economic indicators. Such a project costs no more than 10,000 rubles, and you can order it already after construction before commissioning.
Nevertheless, for your convenience and saving on alterations, we recommend choosing a suitable standard project or making an individual one, taking into account personal preferences and wishes. In either case, it is necessary to mark up all communications and add engineering systems to the plan.
An example of a typical draft design
We draw your attention to the fact that typical projects are traditionally cheaper, and individual ones allow you to realize your own ideas. Individual drawings from the design documentation are drawn up taking into account the connection to the relief and other features of the site - only such scrupulousness can guarantee the durable operation of the dwelling without problems and major repairs.
To build a frame house, it is necessary to provide for the introduction of all engineering networks into the project. They are laid in a strict sequence, and you need to start from the foundation. In the case of using a concrete base, all technological holes for communication systems must be made at the time of pouring, so that after hardening, not to engage in complex drilling of holes.
The electrical system consists of a switchboard, wiring, sockets and grounding. The distance between the points for the sockets should be no more than 4 m. Sockets with covers are installed near the water sources.The ventilation system includes perforated air ducts. Is it worth reminding that the convenience of access and use of taps, switches, as well as the functioning of drains and drainage depends on the correct routing of pipes and wires?
Construction technology provides for the use of a shallow strip, columnar or block foundation. The strength of the base is increased with reinforcement and monolithic strapping. A high-quality foundation can be made only after conducting a geological analysis of the soil.
In most cases, a simpler base is sufficient for a frame house, which can easily withstand small loads. The most appropriate are screw piles. Such a foundation does not require a large amount of materials, which reduces the cost of construction estimates by an average of 15-20%.
Options for the device grillage on screw piles
In the case of a monolithic foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench, compact the soil and fill in a sand cushion. Before you start pouring concrete, you need to make the formwork and install the reinforcement rods. The solution must be rammed during the pouring process. Vertical studs half a meter long are placed in the liquid concrete of the base every 2 m - the lower frame of the frame will be attached to them. The surface of the resulting grillage must be leveled with cement mortar.
Seven days after the pouring of concrete, the bottom strapping of wooden beams with a section of 15x15 cm is laid over the entire surface of the foundation. The wood is preliminarily treated with antiseptic agents, and two layers of roofing material are laid along the bottom, which serves as a horizontal waterproofing.
The beam can be fixed with anchor bolts or foundation studs. If bolts are used, then technological holes must be drilled for them up to 10 cm deep.
When all wooden beams are laid and connected to each other and to the foundation, grooves are formed in them and floor logs are placed (board 50x150 mm). The upper part of the log is adjusted horizontally, and boards are nailed down at the bottom - they will serve as the basis for the construction of the subfloor. Membrane insulation is laid on the resulting plank base (it does not allow the insulation to weather and get wet, while it does not prevent water vapor from escaping). In the intervals between the lags, you need to press in a heater (mineral wool or foam) and cover it with a vapor barrier. An edged board (40x15 mm) is laid on top.
From the very name of the technology, it is clear that the main element of such a structure is a frame, and it is on it that the entire structure is held. The frame consists of vertical posts, fixed with crossbars and horizontal strapping. As before, here the entire construction process is carried out in stages.
Wood is used as a material. It is recommended to choose a coniferous timber with a low degree of moisture, ideally, chamber drying. In terms of height, the racks must correspond to a similar parameter of the room. The racks are connected with nails 10 cm long. After adjusting the elements, there should be no gaps.
Depending on what load will act on the bearing supports, and also based on the dimensions of the insulation and the cladding material, the distance between the posts is planned. The universal section of the racks is 150x50 mm, a double bar of 150x50 mm is placed in the openings. The most popular step is 600 mm (allows you to install the insulation "in an interference" for dense filling of the wall). To connect the racks with the lower strapping, temporary braces are used, which is why the structure acquires the necessary rigidity.
The installation of the upper harness is carried out after the installation of all the racks. Fixation takes place using the same grooves that fastened the lower beam. Top fastening to the posts is done with two nails, which must enter the material by at least 10 cm.The final fixing of the frame is carried out with permanent slopes installed instead of the dismantled temporary ones. Read more about this in the article "Top and Bottom Strapping". We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the device of the most important units of a frame house.
The outer walls of the house are sheathed with imitation timber, wooden clapboard, plastic siding, as the owner of the house wishes. Warming is best done with mineral wool. It is environmentally friendly, durable and does not burn, which makes frame frames even more profitable and in demand.
If you plan to live in the house all year round, choose thermal insulation with a thickness of 15 cm or more. For greater efficiency, fill a counter-lattice of 50x50 mm timber (8) on top of the racks and put the insulation (7) in a "second layer" - this way you will avoid possible cold bridges and make the house truly energy efficient. Read more about the device of the wall cake, as well as about the general insulation of the frame house.
The material is pressed into all gaps between the beams to remove voids. A hydro- and windproof membrane will help to protect the tree from moisture, which is attached over the insulation to the racks, and only then the slatted crate for the ventilation facade is stuffed, which will be hidden under the outer cladding. From the inside, OSB or gypsum fiber boards mounted on top of the vapor barrier are suitable for wall cladding.
The ceiling is attached to the floor beams, which in turn are fixed with nails or steel brackets on the top trim bar. Where interior partitions are installed, you need to install support beams, in the place of which a wooden ceiling panel is nailed.
On top of the shield, you need to lay a vapor barrier film, flush with which the mineral wool or foam is laid. The top of the insulation is covered with a windproof membrane, and boards are laid on top of it. Read more about insulating an attic floor.
Before starting work, determine the degree of slope, the number of slopes, the type of roof cladding, the structure of the rafter system.
A roof with a complex shape looks attractive, but it is difficult to implement and therefore not cheap. Most often, there are gable structures that allow you to equip an attic or attic room. Here it is necessary to install only one ridge, the valleys are completely absent, which excludes the accumulation of precipitation and leaks. To avoid snow trapping on the roof, plan a slope of more than 28º, but no more than 50º, otherwise the wind load will increase.
The cross-section of the rafters is determined according to the thickness of the insulation material placed between them. It is best to take a board with a caliber of 150x50mm and a length of 6 m.Two boards need to be knocked down in the shape of the letter L, and then they are raised upward and the angle is determined, making sure that the overhangs go beyond the wall level by 30-50 cm. Now the boards can be assembled with the help of a crossbar, and we get a kind of rafters.
The upper harness acts here as a Mauerlat. According to the manufactured sample, they create rafters for the entire roof, not forgetting about a step of 600 mm. Rafters on the ridge are installed on the pediment and the installation of the remaining elements is continued along them. The type of roofing material depends on what kind of lathing will be.
The step-by-step instruction ends at the stage of installing the roof cladding. You can choose soft tiles, corrugated board or metal roofing. All of these materials are easy to work with, affordable and have a decent look. After the cladding work, it remains only to install drainpipes and a drainage system, which will be responsible for the removal of precipitation outside the site.
Now you imagine the whole process of building a frame house with your own hands, so that the structure is strong and warm.If you do not ignore the building rules and assembly technology, you will become the happy owner of your own home, which you can only dream of.
Repair of a frame house is a circumstance that happens to every house. A frame house is the newest type of housing, but after a certain time and due to various circumstances, it needs minor repairs or major ones. No type of housing can last forever and do without repairs, even minimal ones. Aesthetic repairs must be present.
Common types repair of a frame house are:
• Change of noise insulation (sound insulation);
• Correction of balconies and balcony blocks;
• Restoration of partitions or walls.
You can also highlight such a problem in connection with which repairs may be necessary - this is the darkening of the material from the outside, if the house was not protected by external decoration.
The outer side of a frame house has a life span of at least 5 years. After this period, it is advised to check the integrity of the structure and restore the appearance, if necessary.
Frame house repair services
Thanks to the experienced employees of our company, we will be able to draw up a specific plan for the repair of a frame house, taking into account the wishes of the client. The company "Karkas for Centuries" will select the optimal and high-quality materials for the correct repair. However, the choice of materials is only an initial stage, it is also necessary to be able to exploit the material itself and implement it. The company's specialists will carry out all the repair work of the frame house at a high level.
The company provides such services for the repair of frame houses as:
• Modification of the design of a frame house. A plan will be developed that contains an engineering conclusion for the construction;
• Repair inside a frame house;
• Setting up sewerage, heating, water supply, etc .;
Repair of a frame house will be able to modify housing and make it comfortable for further living. With the help of repairs, the very design of the house and the layout can change. Professional renovation will improve the home and significantly delay its unusability.
All repair work of a frame house requires knowledge and experience to carry it out, since the slightest mistake can lead to irreparable consequences. In order for the repair to go smoothly and not create problems, it is necessary to contact highly qualified specialists in this field.
The higher the quality of the work performed, the longer the service life of the renovated house will be. In order to carry out repairs the first time, and so that there is no need to redo, contact the specialists of the company "Frame for Centuries". We guarantee the quality of the services provided for the repair of frame houses.
Your task is to choose the type of repair work, and the specialists will implement it. Initially, it is necessary to meet to discuss all the nuances of repair work and to conclude a contract for the provision of services. An expert will assess the current state of the house; will help identify additional repairs that are needed. He will also provide an estimate, which will indicate the approximate cost of the materials needed for the repair.
The Karkas for Centuries company carries out turnkey repair of frame houses. The company itself is engaged in the selection of optimal and high-quality materials for the repair of turnkey frame houses.
It also provides data to clients about the materials used, unlike other companies that are engaged in the repair and construction of frame houses. If the client's finances allow using the material at a higher price, then it will be more profitable in terms of reliability and durability.
Frame houses: projects, photos and prices
All ready-made projects of the Karkas for Centuries company are presented on the official website.Here you can choose frame houses depending on the size, area and price, photos of projects are also presented. Prices are indicated for the frame itself, as well as for the house as a whole. Turnkey frame houses will have a relatively low cost, since the construction technology is extremely optimized.
The company also repairs its projects of frame houses. The repair will cost relatively little money, and it will be completed in the shortest possible time with a high level of quality of work.
To repair walls, floors, thermal insulation, soundproofing of a frame house or other work, you can contact our company. Managers will help you choose the most optimal and high-quality material for insulation and sound insulation in relation to price and quality. They will also be able to give advice on materials for restoring the cladding of a house and advise on any other issues.
Any object needs regular inspection and removal of damage. Wooden houses require this more than others, even if they are a frame building with shield walls. Especially often it is required to replace the lower beam of a panel house. How to do it - detailed instructions below.
With the help of a chisel, it is easy to determine the degree of deterioration of the lower embedded bar to decide on its full or partial replacement. If the point enters the wood easily, and when the chisel moves, the rotten interior opens, then there is only one verdict - to change immediately. Bypassing the entire structure, all parts of the house are checked by this method.
Perhaps there is damage on one of them, and then it is impractical to arrange a full-scale repair of a frame-panel house - you can simply eliminate some areas by replacing them with new ones.
The choice of wood should be approached responsibly - it should be free of visible defects, and before work it is recommended to impregnate it with all kinds of protection and impregnation. So:
- A bar of 150 mm in section, if it is possible to use a larger size, then this will be great - the frame house will receive even greater stability.
- Staples. They will be needed to fix the nodes.
- Saw. With a large replacement, you need to use a gasoline one, and small areas will cost a grinder or disc.
- Jacks. The carrying capacity should not be less than five tons.
- Chisels, hammers, axes.
- Foundation masonry tool or welding machine for cutting pile metal grillage.
- Nail pulling machine.
The principle of operation is the same as if it were carried out for a log house or a fully log house. So:
- First you need to remove the trim. At least up to window blocks. If the shields are a seamless structure, then you will have to work with a chainsaw, carefully cutting off sections and exposing the frame beam.
- Now you need to strengthen the frame at all important nodes - boards with a cross section of at least 40 mm are stuffed around the entire perimeter of the house from the street and inside. You need to use steel pins for fastening, for which holes are specially drilled.
Further, do-it-yourself repair of the panel house continues by raising the entire structure on jacks to the desired height. They will need one for every two meters of wall length. Before the house is raised, it is necessary to disconnect it from all communications, free the chimney from contact with the roof, remove all electrical networks that go out to the highways.
- When the new foundation finally hardens, you can start replacing the timber.They choose it in pieces, put a new one, after inserting the pins into the drilled holes, put the seal in the grooves, and lower the house.
The process is carried out slowly, with a mandatory check for bias. After installing the house, you need to immediately remove the wooden ties, previously stuffed onto the frame, so that the house “relaxes” and takes the desired position.
- If everything suits you, you can sew up the frame. It will not work to make the house a factory again. Therefore, they use boards, chipboard, fiberboard and other materials, not forgetting to shift the interior of the walls with insulation, cotton wool boards or foam.
House repairs and even more so the replacement of crowns, even in a lightweight panelboard facility, cannot be done independently.
A brigade will be required. This is associated with a great risk to life and construction.
Correct repair of panel houses is a well-coordinated work with a calculated sequence.
You cannot first replace one wall, and then take up the foundation.
Most often, frame houses are erected using two technologies: frame-frame and frame-panel. Whereas, using the 2nd method, installation work will have to be performed with the involvement of special equipment, the first technology allows you to do it yourself.
Having decided on the construction method, you should study the site in detail. The best option is when it is elevated and dry enough. If there are old trees in the area designated for construction, then they must be carefully uprooted. If some of the roots remain, then young growth will go and this will lead to the destruction of the foundation.
Professional builders do not recommend building a frame house with a height of more than 2 floors. Since the house is lightweight, a strong foundation is not needed. Its purpose is to provide a stable frame position. As for the type, columnar, tape, based on concrete blocks will do. For rigidity, reinforcement is laid in the strip foundation, in the columnar foundation, a grillage is arranged, using a monolithic tape or channel for this.
Caution: Avoid areas with unstable soil where groundwater comes close to the surface.
The beauty of frame construction is that a house can be built in one season. At the same time, the low weight of the materials allows you to do without heavy construction machines and do all the work practically yourself.
As for the quality, it is difficult to distinguish a well-built and beautifully finished frame house from a log house. In terms of finance, it will cost much less due to the fact that just this very bar will take much less.
The frame house is designed in such a way that the installation of communications is performed during the construction of the foundation. For engineering networks, recesses are arranged in the ground, they are waterproofed and insulated. In this case, all connections are applied to the circuit in order to facilitate further installation.
After that, proceed to the construction of the subfloor. Often they opt for a concrete screed, with a height of about 100 mm. Adhere to the following technology:
- mount the formwork;
- lay the heat and waterproofing layer;
- concrete is poured;
- install logs on a frozen screed;
- insulate the structure by spreading basalt wool or expanded polystyrene between the lags;
- lay out the boards on the lags.
The next stage of construction is the construction of the frame. It is the basis of a house of this type and is a structure consisting of vertical posts, crossbars, horizontal straps. It is made from both wood and metal.A wooden frame is a simpler and cheaper option, in this case you do not need to use welding equipment.
The timber frame requires high quality wood with a maximum moisture content of 12%. The minimum section of the beams is 15 x 15 cm, and the length is selected according to the height of the house. The corners are connected by the thorn-groove method so that the gaps are completely absent. Beams are attached to the beams with a pitch of 30, 40, 60 cm, depending on what material is chosen for the sheathing. Additional beams are laid under the future windows. Clapboard, boards, OSB are used as the exterior cladding of the house.
Before starting work, it is necessary to treat all the wood with an antiseptic and wait until it is completely absorbed. This is necessary not only to protect against rodents and insects, but also to keep the original shape and size of the material well.
Watching this video will help you to properly arrange the frame of the future house:
The frame wall consists of the frame itself and insulation. They are performed using the following technology:
- The outer side of the finished frame is upholstered with rolled waterproofing material.
- A crate is arranged on top of this layer to provide a ventilated gap.
- The walls are sheathed outside with a blockhouse, clapboard or other material.
- The free space between the racks is filled with insulation and fixed with brackets. Moreover, when they are going to live in the house permanently, they choose expanded polystyrene or mineral wool with a minimum thickness of 50 mm. For a summer cottage, a thinner insulation is used.
- On the inner side of the wall, a layer of vapor-waterproofing is placed and the crate is stuffed.
- This is followed by a finishing layer. Most often, drywall is used for this purpose.
Advice: it is better when all the details of the house are made of wood of the same species.
Basically, partitions are mounted from the same timber as the main frame, although sometimes a 100 x 50 mm timber is used, but only in one-story houses. The structure of the inner walls is simpler than the outer ones.
If we consider a simple scheme, then it includes the following elements:
- frame racks;
- insulation;
- 2-sided multifunctional or vapor barrier membrane;
- finishing.
You can also use ready-made, commercially available sandwich panels, then all the work is reduced only to their installation and cutting openings.
Building codes state that windows must occupy 18% of the wall area. For a country cottage intended for permanent residence, the best option is double-glazed windows.
In places where the project provides for window openings and doors, very carefully cut the vertical pillars in the middle. At the top and bottom of the resulting opening, perfectly flat horizontal boards, tightly fitting to the resulting segments, are fixed. After the roof is completed, ready-made frames are simply inserted into these places.
A frame house has a simpler roof structure. Taking into account that the largest mechanical load falls on the frame, it must be constructed in accordance with all requirements. In this case, the roof can acquire any shape that requires the installation of rafters of varying degrees of complexity.
Options are selected based on the parameters of the house and its design features. Step-by-step installation is carried out as follows:
- Carry out a detailed installation diagram of the rafter system. The step is calculated based on the size of the rack, determined with the size of the spans, based on the cross-sectional area of the beams. In this case, the normal step is 40-100 cm, the span is 2.5-5 m.
- The rafters are mounted, securing them with roofing nails, plates, corners. A rigidly fixed maurlet 10 x 10 cm serves as a support for the rafters. Toothed pads are used to connect the rafter legs.
- Arrange the crate. Its type depends on the choice of roofing material. If this is a metal profile, then a 5 x 5 cm bar is used.Fix it every 0.5 m.A continuous OSB crate is arranged under the shingles.
The overlap for an unheated attic consists of the following layers:
- bearing bar;
- plank flooring;
- rough 9 mm floor from OSB or DSP;
- heat and vapor barrier;
- the base of the floor is made of cement-bonded particle board;
- heat insulator;
- screed with a layer of waterproofing.
The material for the rafters is wooden beams, while the step of the rafters is equal to the step of the frame racks. Basically, pitched or flat roofs are arranged for frame houses.
Attention: when calculating the step, take into account both the load and the cross-section of the beams, spans, covering material.
As you can see, the installation work of a frame house is not very difficult. For the independent construction of such a house, you will have enough information obtained after reading this article, and you will need to contact professional builders only for additional advice.
The construction of timber frame houses has gained popularity in our area relatively recently, only in recent decades. And such a rapid growth in the number of supporters of such buildings is due to the very rapid process of their construction and the possibility of using environmentally friendly materials.
DIY frame house construction
The first frame buildings appeared during the development of the territories of America and Canada, then they became widespread in European countries. This type of building is good not only because the house rises quickly, but also because it requires much less cost and physical effort. In addition, if the facade of the house is finished with one of the modern materials imitating brick, wood or stone, then its walls cannot be distinguished from the capital ones.
It is interesting that building a frame house with your own hands is quite possible even alone. Of course, the process will take much longer, but you will not have to pay for the work of the whole team. If you decide to carry out the construction yourself and complete it during the warm and dry summer period, then you still need to start in early spring. If the house is not completely finished by late autumn, you need to try to bring the construction site at least to the rafter structure and to the flooring of the roofing material, since the building should not be allowed to stand uncovered until next spring.
Generally speaking, the frame structure of the house consists of a lower and upper strapping, which holds together the vertically installed racks that form the frame of the external and internal walls. The base for the floors and the attic floor consists of load-bearing beams made of timber. The rafter system is also erected from beams, and the roof covering is laid on it. It is desirable that it does not differ in too large a mass.
An approximate diagram of a residential frame house
Insulation is installed and laid between the frame elements. Its thickness is chosen depending on the region and climatic conditions. In any case, the thickness of the frame posts must correspond to this value. Most often, one of the varieties of mineral wool, ecowool, expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam is chosen as thermal insulation materials. Expanded clay is also used to insulate floors and attic floors.
When choosing, one must take into account not only the thermal insulation qualities of the material, but also a number of other factors - hygroscopicity, chemical and biological resistance, density, environmental friendliness, etc. And for a frame house, the flammability of the material and its stability are of great importance. to the effects of rodents.
On the pages of our portal there are a lot of materials that tell in detail about the characteristics and performance of various heaters .
After the installation of the insulation, the structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant materials - it can be OSB, moisture-resistant plywood or cement-bonded particle board (DSP).
Compared to solid wood, block or brick buildings, the frame structure is lightweight, which does not require a massive foundation. A columnar or pile-screw base is suitable for it, and if it is planned to arrange basements in the house, then in this case it is best to choose a strip foundation. The frame structure must be raised high enough above the ground, so the basement part must have a height of at least 500 mm. This is necessary so that moisture from the soil, rainwater or snowdrifts affects the wooden elements of the frame house as little as possible.
Any construction begins with a foundation, and, as mentioned above, you can choose any of its types (except, perhaps, a monolithic "floating" slab - there is no need for it).
Before you start digging trenches under the foundation or screwing in piles, you need to carefully mark the area. This work should not be considered secondary, since the straightness of future walls will depend on it, and the total amount of work, since you will not have to make unnecessary efforts to rework the foundation if its exact coordinates and dimensions are initially determined.
A lot depends on the accuracy of the markup.
- The marking is carried out using a tape measure, a square, and other simple geodetic instruments. Usually it consists in installing wooden stakes with stretched cords, which visually show the size of the building and its location on the ground.
On this kind of "drawing", all the load-bearing walls of the structure are determined if a strip type of foundation is selected. If you are planning a columnar or pile-screw version, then you need to mark the exact location of each of the pillars (supports).
Pit trench for strip foundation
- The trenches can be dug by hand or, if this process needs to be done quickly, use special construction equipment, with the help of which the whole operation will take place in one day.
- To dig holes for a columnar foundation, in addition to shovels, they use an ordinary hand drill or a motor-drill, which will much faster allow you to drill holes of the required diameter to the required depth.
The presence of a motor-drill will greatly simplify the task.
These methods are the most affordable, since if you invite large-sized equipment, then it is necessary, firstly, to have an additional area on the site and free travel to the place of work, and secondly, the cost of such drilling will cost several times more.
- At the stage of digging a pit, sewage drainage is carried out. To lay pipes, trenches are dug to a depth below the freezing level of the soil in the region. Then the pipes are laid to the place inside the pit, where, according to the plan, a bathroom or a ventilated sewer riser should be located.
At this stage, sewage is usually provided as well.
If a columnar foundation is arranged, then the section of the pipe that runs from the ground level to the exit in the house must be carefully insulated. It is recommended to build brick walls around it, and fill the space between the pipe and them with insulation.
Of course, this work can be carried out after the completion of construction, but in this case it will be inconvenient to do it - you will have to cut holes in the floor or cut through the wall of the foundation.
In order to specifically dwell on one of the types of foundation, you need to imagine what they are.
Strip foundation
This type of foundation is a concrete monolithic strip, which has a reinforcing grid in its structure. The height of the basement part may be different, but if there is a basement in the plan for building a house, then the walls of the foundation are raised by 600 ÷ 800 mm, in which case they will require insulation. When preparing the formwork, one must not forget about the ventilation holes, which will not allow moisture to accumulate under the building.
"Classic" strip foundation
If you immediately envisage measures to combat rodents, of which there are always a lot outside the city, then it is recommended to make a backfill of fine-grained expanded clay around the foundation and inside it.
This is a rather difficult question that requires more careful consideration. Therefore, the reader is advised to refer to a special publication of our portal dedicated to strip foundation .
Column foundation
Wooden strapping of the house on a columnar foundation
1 - foundation pillar;
2 - strapping beams;
3 - floor beams;
4 - subfloor logs.
A columnar foundation is a collection of concrete, brick or combined pillars, located in the correct order, according to the markings carried out. The supports are deepened depending on the types and location of soil layers in a given area and on the massiveness of the future structure.
For a frame house on stable ground, this is a very good solution. All installation details columnar foundation can be found in a dedicated article.
Pile-screw foundation
The screw foundation nt is made of metal piles, screwed to the required depth at the points, according to the markings carried out in accordance with the project. The upper part of the piles, protruding above the ground surface, is tied with a metal grillage or metal bridges, and then a powerful bar. This will become the basis for the lower strapping of the frame structure itself.
Pile-screw foundation diagram
The pile-screw design is good in that the supports can be screwed in so that they protrude to different heights. This allows you to install the house not only on a flat area, but also on an intersected area, with a difference in height - then it will not be difficult to bring the piles to one horizontal level. one height.
You will not be able to screw the screw piles on your own - you will either have to invite several assistants, or use the services of a team of craftsmen, "armed" with special equipment.
Whatever foundation is chosen, it must be waterproofed from above - the platform (grillage, mounting plates or the upper edge of the posts or tape), on which the lower strapping beam will be installed, is covered with roofing material, which creates a waterproof gasket.
Beams of the lower strapping belt on waterproofed installation sites of the pile-screw foundation
Roofing material is spread in several layers, preferably in a "hot" way on tar mastic, and it should be 150 ÷ 200 mm larger than the width of the foundation, as it should protrude from both sides.
The strapping is made of a bar with dimensions of 150 × 150 or 200 × 150 mm. At the corners, the elements are connected "in half a tree", the bars are reliably twisted together and fixed on the supports (tape) of the foundation using studs or anchors, depending on what type of base is chosen and from what material it is built.
Additionally, the strapping beams are fastened together with corners or other metal elements, for example, plates. The same parts can be used to fasten the piping to the foundation.
Joining parts with corners and plates
At the end of these works, a rigid strapping belt should be obtained that can withstand the main frame structure. In the case when the used timber does not have the proper size in section, two, and sometimes three parts are laid one on top of the other.
Reinforced two-bar harness
Moreover, the upper beam of the harness is mounted on the lower beam so that the possible places of butt joints, if any, do not fall one above the other.
If the wooden harness is mounted on a strip foundation, then it may not be too thick, but it is very important that its width coincides with the width of the concrete base.
Bottom strapping on strip foundations
Basement beams
The strength properties of the frame to the maximum extent depend on the quality and section of the strapping beams and floor beams. It is clear that they are trying to select first-class material. But the section depends both on the length of the spans and on the step of the arrangement of the parts. To correctly determine the size, you can use the following table:
Video (click to play). |
Section table of the beams of floor beams for a frame building: