Do-it-yourself catalytic converter repair

In detail: do-it-yourself catalytic converter repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If there was a diagnostic that showed that the catalyst was clogged and the resistance to the passage of exhaust gases increased significantly, then you need to flush the catalyst. If flushing is not possible (in case of mechanical damage), then the catalyst will have to be replaced, if the replacement of the catalyst is not economically feasible, the catalyst will have to be removed.

Most modern cars are equipped with two converters: main and preliminary.

Theoretically, for the engine, catalytic converters are harmful, since the resistance of the exhaust tract increases significantly, moreover, in order to maintain the required temperature of the catalyst in some modes, it becomes necessary to enrich the mixture.

As a result, this leads to a noticeable decrease in engine performance in terms of fuel consumption and power. But sometimes simply removing the catalyst can make matters worse, as the aftertreatment system on most vehicles is tightly coupled to the engine management system. There is a possibility that the engine will operate in emergency mode (CHECK ENGINE), which will undoubtedly lead to power limitation, as well as increased fuel consumption.

In the event that you still decide to remove the catalyst, then you first need to find out about the likely consequences and ways to help get around them. It is advisable to communicate with the owners of such cars (there are a huge number of clubs for car lovers of a certain brand on the Internet).

Video (click to play).

In general, in the case indicated in the diagram, the first oxygen sensor does not monitor the state of the catalysts, the removal of the latter will not affect its readings, the second temperature sensor will have to be deceived, for this we install a screwdriver under the sensor, we do this in order to without catalyst were equal to or approximately those with the installed catalyst. If the second sensor is also a lambda, you need to be more careful, since after removing the catalyst, you will most likely need to flash the engine control unit (in some cases, you can make a correction).

In the case shown in the diagram, the state of the pre-catalyst affects the readings of the sensors. Thus, it would be more correct to remove the main catalyst and rinse the preliminary one. As a result, we get the minimum resistance of the exhaust tract, these changes will not have any effect on the engine management system, but when the screw is screwed in, the readings of the exhaust gas temperature sensor will be erroneous and this is not good. But this is all theory, but in practice it is necessary to take into account the state of the catalyst cells.

We draw up a work plan - we wash the preliminary catalyst and remove the main one, that's all you can start.

First you need to remove the exhaust manifold, the pre-catalyst is integrated in it:

Cells are long, but rather thin channels, so we diagnose their condition carefully in the light, it is advisable to use a small but bright enough light source, the voltage of which does not exceed 12V (we follow safety rules).

The condition of the cells is almost perfect for a run of 200 thousand km.

When checking for light, a small defect was found, it does not pose danger and harm:

Flushing is carried out if there are no mechanical damages (these include drawdown, burnout, etc.), the presence of deposits that significantly reduce the flow area. Honeycombs must be thoroughly blown with a spray for carburetors.

If there are a lot of deposits, then after blowing with a spray, the catalyst can be soaked overnight in a container with diesel fuel. After that, repeat the purge. Do not forget about the exhaust gas recirculation channel (another environmentalist trick):

If you nevertheless removed the preliminary catalyst, then the channel will have to be thoroughly washed, since the crumb formed during removal can get into the inlet, and from there into the cylinders (it is easy to guess that the cylinder mirror will not suffer slightly).

All operations that are carried out with the main catalyst are similar to those described for the example of the pre-catalyst.

Next, we begin the assembly, you need to assemble in the reverse order, the gaskets must be new or very well cleaned old ones, we assemble them carefully, do not forget anything.

In my case, it was enough to unscrew the two nuts securing the outlet pipe, as well as bend the line after the converter to the side.

Surprisingly Japanese catalyst, after 200 thousand kilometers is still full of energy.

Of course, a pitifully expensive catalyst, but it needs to be pierced, so we will make the engine breathe easier. Catalyst cells are very easy to punch with a puncher with a 23 mm drill.

I did not remove the entire catalyst cell, I punched two holes, the excess was removed.

The goal of only partial removal of the catalyst is simple - the honeycombs that remain around the walls will reduce resonant vibrations, and the punched hole is enough to get rid of the increased resistance to the passage of exhaust gases in the catalyst area.

After removing the honeycombs, we remove their fragments from the catalyst barrel. To do this, you need to start the car and run it well until the dust from the ceramics stops flowing. Next, we put the outlet pipe in place and enjoy the result.

The advantages of partial removal of the catalyst is the level of intelligence similar to the stock one, in addition, by doing so, I got rid of the rattling in the area of \u200b\u200bthe catalyst barrel.

That's all, as you noticed, removing the catalyst will not present any difficulty. In the service, they tried to breed me for cutting the catalyst, cleaning and re-welding the body. Accordingly, they would have turned down the corresponding price for “such a complicated”, and moreover, useless work.

An important element of the exhaust system of a car is a catalyst (catalytic converter). Its task is to reduce the amount of harmful combustion elements emitted into the atmosphere.

The average catalyst resource is about 100-150 thousand kilometers. It can run flawlessly for longer or less, depending on the quality of the engine, the fuel used, and a host of other factors. A clogged catalytic converter must be replaced or attempted to be cleaned. If you properly clean the catalyst, it will be able to work for some more time before replacement.

An experienced driver is unlikely to miss the moment when the exhaust system catalyst ceases to cope with the functions assigned to it. There are a number of signs that indicate its contamination:

Decrease in engine power when the car is moving, slow acceleration;
Problems with starting the engine;
Unstable idling;
Spontaneous shutdown of the motor;
Increased fuel consumption;
Burning check engine light.

Also, if the catalyst is heavily contaminated, the driver may notice that the color of the exhaust has changed.

You can check the catalyst for contamination using various methods, but the most effective way is to remove it and inspect it visually.If there are fragments of resins, combustion products, oil and other “garbage” on the “honeycombs” of the catalyst that interfere with the passage of exhaust gases, it must be eliminated as much as possible.

There are several ways to clean the catalyst yourself. Depending on how dirty the catalyst is, it is advisable to choose one or another method of cleaning it.

If the combustion products are not strongly and massively “sticky” to the catalyst filter element, they can be removed using ordinary sandpaper.

To do this is quite simple:

You will need to take fine-grained sandpaper and remove the catalyst;
Further, carefully, without pressing hard on the “honeycombs”, you need to clean off the formed plaque in a circular motion;
Once the filter element has been cleaned, the remaining contaminants are blown out with compressed air.

Important: In the process of cleaning the catalyst with sandpaper, one should not overdo it with pressing force. Most often, the "honeycombs" of the catalytic converter are made of ceramic. If you press them too hard, they risk breaking, and you will need to buy a new catalyst.

If the catalyst is heavily contaminated, you can apply "chemistry" to clean it. In automotive stores, you can find special tools for flushing and rebuilding the catalyst. If it is not possible to purchase such a tool, carburetor fluid or ethanol will cope with the task of cleaning the filter element.

The catalyst should be cleaned with special chemicals in accordance with the instructions. If carburetor fluid is used, the cleaning process is as follows:

It is necessary to take a plastic container, a bucket will do, in which the catalyst can be placed vertically;
Next, the catalyst is removed from the car and inspected for damage. If they are absent, you can start cleaning, otherwise you will have to think about replacing the filter element;
The "honeycombs" of the catalyst are abundantly watered with a carburetor cleaner, after which the part is wrapped in rags and placed in a plastic container;
After 20-30 minutes, it is necessary to rinse the "honeycombs" of the catalyst under the pressure of hot water.
Important: Do not perform this procedure in a home bathroom, as the chemicals used in carburetor cleaners can corrode bathroom enamel, sinks, and damage other furnishings;
After washing the catalyst with water, dry the part and blow it with compressed air;
Then repeat the procedure from the beginning.

If the catalyst is critically contaminated, two cleanings may not be enough. In such a situation, it is recommended to use more powerful cleaning agents (eg kerosene).

Often, in order to save money and time, drivers abandon the idea of \u200b\u200bcleaning and replacing the catalyst by punching new holes in it or drilling them. Such a decision will allow the engine power to be restored, but the car's indicators for harmful emissions into the atmosphere will be violated. In addition, the level of noise from the exhaust pipe that occurs when the car is moving will increase. Such methods of “cleaning” the catalyst are unacceptable, and during long-term operation of the engine with a damaged filter element, various problems may arise with it.

What to do if the catalytic converter is faulty? To change or not, and what are the consequences?

These questions arise for all owners of cars with solid mileage, and sometimes not at all old. It happens the same way for everyone. At some point, the car owner begins to notice that the car has become worse to drive, fuel consumption has increased, while the dynamics have worsened, as if someone is holding the car and not letting it accelerate. The next step is diagnosis and diagnosis. Here the most interesting events begin.

But what kind of device is this "Catalytic Converter", what does it give and why is it needed? This device in appearance resembles a silencer or resonator.There are collector and main catalysts.

Collector (left) and main (right) catalysts

Inside there are ceramic blocks with holes resembling a honeycomb. These "honeycombs" are covered with special alloys of expensive and very expensive metals from iridium to platinum. Exhaust gases, which have a very high temperature, passing through the honeycomb, enter into a chemical reaction with these metals, and are converted into less harmful ones. That is, this device serves to clean the exhaust and is installed on all modern cars, from Euro2 to Euro5.

During the operation of the car, this device does not remind of itself for a very long time. But low-quality fuel and high mileage gradually “kill” those same ceramic blocks. In the case of low-quality fuel, ceramic blocks simply sinter, the honeycombs melt and do not allow exhaust gases to pass through. Excessive pressure builds up in the exhaust manifold. The release of gases is difficult, the wear of piston rings and valves increases, the engine starts worse, slowly accelerates the car and, at the same time, dips and twitches occur.

Even if the car drove all the time on good, high-quality fuel, but the mileage exceeded two hundred thousand kilometers, the metal coating layer on the honeycombs becomes thinner and disappears completely. The catalyst ceases to carry out the neutralization of harmful substances in the exhaust gases.

Catalyst filter after long time use

Changes in exhaust quality are recorded by sensors - lambda probes. The first is set at the input, and the second is at the output of the device. Information from the sensors is transmitted to the ECU (electronic control unit) by the engine. If the parameters do not match, the ECU makes adjustments to the quality characteristics of the fuel, and sends a signal to the dashboard, the “Chec Engine” display lights up. With such a malfunction, it is possible to operate the machine for some more time, but the problem is growing and can be expensive - not only the catalyst, but also the piston group will need to be repaired. Can't be pulled. Repair needed.

Catalyst malfunction light

The first and most natural step is to contact specialists at a serious, large and beautiful dealer station. Good warm atmosphere, friendly managers, etc. After some time, after the inspection, a provisional invoice will be presented for the replacement of a faulty catalytic converter. And, if you are satisfied with the cost, the replacement will occur, but most likely not quickly. First, the dealer will order the necessary spare parts and components, set the date and time for the next visit to the station for replacement. After a successful repair, the bill for payment will grow up a little and more than once, but in agreement with the customer. Having parted with your money, you will get a working “like new” engine, environmentally friendly “exhaust” and warranty obligations of the worker.

Catalyst repair at an authorized dealer is the most expensive, but at the same time the safest option.

This option will suit the owners of expensive cars. The cost of a catalyst can be from 6,000 rubles without the cost of installation on a Lada Granta, and up to absolutely fantastic amounts of several hundred thousand rubles for premium and business class cars. The high cost is explained not only by the presence of expensive materials in the catalyst, but by the quality of workmanship and the brand.

Replacing at the dealer will not affect the performance of the car in any way, and it will run as it should.

Having learned the cost of the catalyst and work from the dealer, many go to craftsmen. Those, in turn, offer a cheap and radical solution to the problem. Namely, knock out (remove) the catalyst from the housing. The operation is quite simple and not very expensive. To do this, the catalyst is removed, regardless of whether it is a collector or a main one, it is cut, and for some, the joint of the upper housing is flared, then the inner housing is cut.The spent ceramic blocks are removed from it, then it is welded using a welding machine, first the inner case, then the heat-insulating material is put in place, and the outer case is welded or crimped. Install the received part in place and that's it.

But not for Euro4 and Euro5. For these cars, it is necessary to “flash” the ECU, or install a “blende” on the lower lambda probe. This is necessary in order to bypass or deceive the sensors that read the characteristics of the exhaust gases at the inlet and outlet of the catalyst. Based on this data, the ECU adjusts the composition of the fuel.

You can see more about this method in the video:

Replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester

The "informal" types of repair described above have their advantages:

It is, first of all, the cost. You can meet 10 thousand rubles with the installation of a flame arrester and 3-4 thousand simply by “breaking through” the catalyst.
The car will go faster.
You can pour 92 gasoline, there's nothing to burn out anyway.
Long service life of the product. With high-quality welding work, such a device will last from 3 to 5 years.
Makes engine work easier. Gases do not meet resistance and easily leave.

But there will also be bad consequences:

Exhaust sound in almost all cases will be sharper and louder.
The life of the rest of the exhaust system will be reduced because the exhaust gases will go directly at high temperatures.
Most importantly, the composition of the exhaust will not correspond to the declared characteristics. This is not only the environment, which is usually spit on. But this is also the difficulty in passing the technical inspection. Meanwhile, the conditions for maintenance are constantly tightening.

The high cost of materials and work has led to the emergence of alternative types of repair and replacement of the catalyst, which can satisfy both economical and those who care about the environment. If such a problem arose, and it is a pity or simply there is no money to replace the original catalyst, you can use the services of numerous companies involved in solving this problem.

So universal catalysts appeared on the auto parts market. Installation of such a device will be inexpensive, you just need to choose it in accordance with the engine size.

Replacing a defective one with a new one is not difficult. The pipe is removed, the old catalyst is cut out with the help of a grinder, and another one is welded in its place. If you have welding skills, you can do this work yourself.

Replacing the catalyst with a universal one

At the same time, there is no need to “reflash” the ECU and change the factory settings - the exhaust system will work normally. The service life of a universal catalyst will largely depend on the quality of the fuel. Environmental indicators will comply with the standards.

In addition, there is an even more economical option. This is a catalyst repair using repair ceramic cartridges that are inserted into the housing in place of the failed ones. These parts are available, but carrying out such repairs will require skills and the necessary tools from the performer. It will be necessary not only to remove and replace the catalyst, but also to open it, replace the cartridges, weld the body, restore the thermal insulation and outer skin. The result is a complete catalyst that meets all requirements.

Replacing the catalytic converter

You can also watch a video on replacing the catalyst cartridge:

Such a replacement or repair will allow you to safely go to an inspection, and pass it according to the law, and not look for “bugs” ready to sell you a “fake” inspection ticket for little money.What decision to make - to change, punch or repair, everyone decides for himself. But when you make a decision, think about those people who are moving with you in traffic and in traffic jams are forced to breathe what your car spews and hundreds of others. Think about your own, and about the health of people close to you. About the night rest of your parents and children.A catalytic converter is used to clean vehicle exhaust gases. This device is called "neutralizer" and "catalyst". As a result of the operation of the equipment, mechanical damage occurs. If the converter is clogged, then flushing is possible, allowing it to return to its operational properties.As a result of mechanical damage, it becomes necessary to replace the catalyst. In each case, it is necessary to adequately assess the economic feasibility of repair or replacement.There are two types of catalytic converters installed on modern vehicles:The pre-catalyst is built directly into the exhaust manifold. From a theoretical point of view, the catalyst does not contribute to the functioning of the power unit. It helps to increase the resistance of the exhaust tract. In this regard, the engine requires an enriched mixture to maintain optimal operation.As a result of the use of a converter, the power of the power unit is reduced and fuel consumption increases. But this is not always the case. On some car brands, the powertrain control system functions in close tandem with the exhaust gas cleaning system. Therefore, before removing the neutralizer, it is necessary to assess the likely consequences. This will be assisted by numerous forums dedicated to different brands and models of vehicles.It is possible that after removing the device, the CHECK indicator on the dashboard will light up, and the power unit will operate in emergency mode.Also, the removal of the converter can cause a decrease in the power of the power unit and increased fuel consumption. Therefore, it is advisable for every car owner who wishes to conduct an experiment with his vehicle to communicate with the owners of the same cars.Oxygen sensors work in tandem with the converter. They determine the ratio and composition of the combustible mixture. Thus, the oxygen sensors control the catalyst.Before considering catalyst recovery, Let's focus on the removal of this device from the exhaust system of the car.Usually one of the sensors does not monitor the state of the converter. In turn, the second temperature sensor will need to be deceived. For this, a special screw is mounted under it. As a result of such actions, the readings of the temperature sensor will correspond to those that were with the converter installed. On some vehicles, both sensors monitor the condition of the converters. Therefore, after removing the device, most likely, the car owner will need to deal with flashing or correcting the control unit of the power unit.On many vehicles, the oxygen sensors are directly related to the preconverter. Therefore, it is most convenient for the car owner to remove the main catalyst, and rinse the preliminary one.By performing the above operations, you can minimize the level of resistance in the exhaust tract. At the same time, the powertrain control system will operate in standard mode. A significant disadvantage of the considered method is that the temperature sensor, under which the screwdriver is installed, will send incorrect signals.In fact, all this is the theoretical part.If we turn to practice, then one should take into account the state of the neutralizer cells.The questions are quite common, how to fix the catalyst and can it be done? If the device burns out, then it must be disposed of. Washing is also quite a challenge. If paraffin and sulfur have accumulated inside, then even special chemistry and high-pressure washing may not be able to cope with washing. You need to diagnose the condition of the catalyst yourself. To do this, you need to start the car and put your hand on the exhaust pipe. If exhaust gases do not come out of it, then the problem lies in the converter. As a rule, a breakdown does not occur spontaneously, but manifests itself over time. Symptoms of a malfunction:

traction disappears;

the engine does not start well;

revs disappear, etc.

Excessive fuel consumption may also be the cause.If the converter sank, and even more so, burned out, then, as already noted, it must be disposed of. Let's start with the pre-catalyst. Operating procedure:

removal of the exhaust manifold. It is in it that a preliminary neutralizer is installed;

cell check. These are thin channels. A bright light source will help make sure there is a gap. To do this, you need to use a regular 12 volt flashlight;

Flushing. It is carried out only if there are no mechanical damages. If the device burns out or there is a drawdown, it must be replaced.

Carburetor spray is used for flushing. Novice motorists are interested in the question of how to flush a diesel catalyst? For these purposes, carburetor spray is also used. If it is not possible to clean the cells, then it is recommended to soak the neutralizer in diesel fuel for several hours. The exhaust gas recirculation channel should also be cleaned.The principle of cleaning the main and preliminary neutralizers practically do not differ. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order. It is advisable to install new gaskets. If these elements are absent, then the old gaskets must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt.Usually, two nuts are used to fasten the device in question. After that, you will need to bend the track and dismantle the device. You can study the features of removing the main catalyst for a specific brand of car in the instruction manual. Practice shows that high-quality converters serve car owners for 200,000 kilometers and even more.To simplify the work of the power unit, it is enough to break through the cells of the converter. This can be done with a puncher and a drill with a pobedite tip.In this case, you can remove the cells or leave them directly in the device. In this case, we are talking about the partial removal of the neutralizer. So, holes in the honeycombs will reduce the level of resistance during the passage of exhaust gases. At the same time, the remains of honeycombs will reduce the level of resonant vibrations.To eliminate the remnants of honeycombs that got into the catalyst barrel as a result of drilling, it is necessary to start the engine and press the accelerator several times. After that, the outlet pipe is mounted. Feedback from car owners suggests that the experimental method allows you to get rid of the rattling that occurs in the converter barrel. Thus, the procedure for removing the catalytic converter does not cause any difficulties. The car owner does not have to contact the service and pay a lot of money for it.

According to world, European, and now Russian standards, the level of CO2 emissions into the atmosphere should not exceed the standards established by GOST for each type of engine. For example, for gasoline engines, GOST R 52033-2003 is provided, and for engines with diesel fuel, GOST R 52160-2003. Simply put, motorists in our country now (since 2003) live according to Euro-3 standards, where the total mass of CO2 emissions should not exceed 2.3 gkm, and according to Euro-4 standards, where CO2 emissions up to 1.0 gkm are also not must be exceeded - otherwise a fine, and in the future the impossibility of passing the maintenance and obtaining a diagnostic card that replaced the inspection coupons

For these purposes, it is necessary to have a serviceable catalyst in the exhaust system of any car. In addition, the new Euro-5 standards, for which there are no prerequisites in Russia yet, imply an even greater reduction in harmful emissions. After all of the above, it is really worth considering how far you can go without problems and how long you will drive. However, the life and operation of a car in Russia brings with it several troubles, the main of which can immediately be called the quality of the fuel. Only Russian high-quality fuel contains tetraethyl lead, which instantly destroys any catalysts.

Before discussing do-it-yourself catalyst repair, you need to understand what the hell it breaks at all and what leads to breakdowns. One reason we found out together is the low quality of the fuel, which emits tetraethyl lead, which has the most powerful effect on the oxidation device, which is what any catalyst is. Our roads can be safely called the second executioner of catalysts - more precisely, again, their quality is amazing in every sense. And indeed, only on our roads it can shake so much that it is strange why the catalyst does not immediately fall out.

Ideally, no one repairs catalysts, because the honeycomb ceramic component of this device simply cannot be repaired. There are several options for solving the problem, but only a couple of them are actually worthy of attention and consideration. If we take into account that world manufacturers (except domestic ones) set the bar for replacing a catalyst after 100 thousand kilometers, then by Russian standards this distance can be reduced to 60-80 thousand kilometers, taking into account the quality of fuel and roads, all the more so because domestically produced cars in general catalysts were not installed until 2000.

And yet, let's get back to our sheep, that is, to the replacement and other possible options for action in the event of the death of the catalyst.

One way to solve the problem is to completely remove the burnt or broken catalyst. But get ready to change the exhaust system literally every 20 thousand kilometers.
You can knock out the catalyst cells, but this threatens to get ceramic dust into the cylinder block, and hence the near death of the entire engine.
A complete replacement for the original analogue, but it is not cheap at all and no one will guarantee that after 50 thousand km it will not burn to hell again or break.
The most common, cheap and more or less reliable, from a technical point of view, remains the option of replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester.

With it, you can even go through MOT, especially since you can change it yourself and there are almost no complaints from the authorities.

Today I want to talk about catalytic converter repair. Many people have a check light when it fails. That is - a check engine error, says that the exhaust is out of order, the gases do not normally leave and you need to look at the muffler. Of course, “Check” can burn not only because of this part of the muffler, but today I want to talk to you about this. Or rather, can it be repaired? Read more…After installing this snag, you can reset the "CHECK" error, and that's it. The error will no longer appear. As a result, we get the restoration of characteristics in terms of dynamics and consumption. And also you do not need to spend money on expensive replacement of the catalyst. However, in this way we simply deceived the sensor, but after a while you still need to change the catalyst. After all, there is a downside - the car has lost power, the exhaust is not working correctly, and fuel consumption will also increase.Of course, for a short time - enough. Yes, and you can also sell a car, although this is a little dishonest.In cases where the neutralizer is removed or changed to flame arrester , the ECU starts to malfunction, causing emergency operation. At such moments, experienced motorists use an oxygen lambda probe corrector, which allows you to avoid mistakes and continue to operate the car.

The ECU puts the engine into emergency mode when the engine is operating according to the specified fuel maps without taking into account the readings of the oxygen sensors.

The “Check Engine” indicator on the dashboard lights up and an enriched combustible mixture enters the cylinders.

The carbon deposits on the spark plugs increase, the power of the internal combustion engine decreases and the oil becomes contaminated.

Increased fuel consumption entails extra financial costs.

Almost all automakers recommend replacing a faulty converter. But not every car owner will go for it, because the price of some copies, for example, for a VAZ, reaches 60,000 rubles. This also includes the cost of installing the device. Therefore, many motorists are interested in what a do-it-yourself catalyst blende is and a scheme for its implementation.The essence of the emulator is to change the real readings of the sensors, after which the ECU switches to normal operation. In this case, the neutralizer itself can be cut out or replaced with a flame arrester. The installation procedure for the simulator is no more complicated than ground clearance increase Renault Duster.To change the readings of the exhaust system oxygen sensor, our motorists use several methods, the choice depends on the design features of the car and the capabilities of the motorist himself:

Mechanical spacer for the lambda probe.

Spacer for sensor with built-in minicatalyst.

Use of electronic simulators.

To implement a mechanical blende on a catalyst with your own hands, it is recommended to use blanks made of heat-resistant steel or bronze. So the parts will not be deformed from high temperature. There are two designs, but both require a lathe or the help of an experienced turner.It is a sleeve 40-100 mm long. On the one hand, a standard sensor is screwed in, and on the other hand, the circulation of gases is limited by a hole of small diameter. The essence of the action of the "device" is that the composition of the exhaust mixture is averaged, because the lambda probe is removed from the gas jet itself and, accordingly, it catches less toxic substances. Due to this, it turns out to deceive the ECU.A typical drawing with spacer dimensions can be changed in terms of overall dimensions, it depends on the model and brand of the car. The optimal inlet diameter remains unchanged - 1.5-2 mm. In some cases, the length of the sleeve may not allow it to be installed in its original place. As a result, you have to weld the mount in another place in the exhaust pipe.

Exhaust gases enter the bushing body through a small diameter hole.

In the volume of the spacer, excess CH and CO are oxidized by oxygen, as a result of which the concentration of harmful substances decreases.

The ongoing processes change the shape of the sinusoid, and the electronic system considers that the catalytic converter is operating normally.

A do-it-yourself catalyst blende made according to the above scheme has a benefit similar to the previous version. Here the standard probe will be raised by 32mm, although it is less than 40-100mm.The installation procedure is not difficult, and begins with placing the car on a flyover or lift. Further actions take place according to the following scheme:

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Unscrew the controller.

Screw the sleeve onto the probe.

Screw the upgraded assembly into place.

Connect battery.

After the first start, the "Check Engine" signal should go out. The motor will now operate normally.A real electronic emulator is a microprocessor-based device consisting of a single-chip microcircuit. The principle of its operation is based on the formation of an output signal, which in form corresponds to the information with a working converter. This option for self-fulfillment is difficult, so you should immediately consider a simpler method. To implement it, you need to prepare:

Electric soldering iron.

Solder and rosin.

Knife and side cutters.

Resistance 200 Kom power 0.25 W.

The capacitor is non-polar with a capacity of 4.7 μF.

The principle of operation of the system is to average the readings of the oxygen sensor, which is installed after the converter. The way to connect emulator components is simple and universal. All elements are connected directly to the conductors of the vehicle's on-board network. Before connecting the electronic blende to the catalyst with your own hands, disconnect the terminals battery to exclude the possibility of a short circuit.
Image - Do-it-yourself catalytic converter repair

After the implementation of the project, the car shows good dynamics. However, the effect of re-enrichment of the combustible mixture may occur, which causes the deposition of a layer of soot in the exhaust manifold. In addition, on some models, error P0133 appears, indicating a low reaction rate of the lambda probe.

On the shelves of car dealerships there are parts of all kinds for tuning the exhaust system. The production of mechanical simulators of the regular operation of the catalytic converter is made of bronze or chrome steel. The price of such devices ranges from 400 to 800 rubles, and a standard installation at a service station will cost about 500 rubles.

Video (click to play).

A spacer with a minicatalyst is offered much more expensive than an elementary analogue, its cost is 1,500-4,000 rubles. Simple electronic emulators of industrial production are sold for 1,500-3,000 rubles. The price range for flashing the ECU software is quite wide - from 1,000 to 30,000 rubles.

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