DIY catalytic converter repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a catalytic converter from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If there was a diagnostics that showed that the catalyst was clogged and the resistance to the passage of exhaust gases increased significantly, then the catalyst needs to be flushed. If flushing is not possible (in case of mechanical damage), then the catalyst will have to be replaced, if the replacement of the catalyst is not economically feasible, the catalyst will have to be removed.

Most modern cars are equipped with two converters: primary and preliminary.

Theoretically, catalytic converters are harmful for the engine, since the resistance of the exhaust tract increases significantly, moreover, in order to maintain the required catalyst temperature in some modes, it becomes necessary to enrich the mixture.

As a result, this leads to a noticeable decrease in the characteristics of the engine in terms of fuel consumption and power. But sometimes, simply removing the catalyst can make matters worse, as the exhaust aftertreatment system on most vehicles is tightly coupled to the engine management system. There is a possibility that the engine will work in emergency mode (CHECK ENGINE), which will undoubtedly lead to power limitation, as well as increased fuel consumption.

In the event that you nevertheless decide to remove the catalyst, then you first need to find out about the likely consequences and methods that will help to get around them. It is advisable to talk with the owners of the same cars (there are a huge number of clubs of car lovers of a certain brand on the Internet).

Video (click to play).

In general, in the case indicated in the diagram, the first oxygen sensor does not monitor the state of the catalysts, the removal of the latter will not affect its readings, the second temperature sensor will have to be deceived, for this we install a screwdriver under the sensor, we do this in order for the sensor readings without catalyst were equal or approximate to those with the installed catalyst. If the second sensor is also a lambda, you need to be more careful, since after removing the catalyst, it will most likely require a flashing of the engine control unit (in some cases, a correction can be made).

In the case shown in the diagram, the readings of the sensors are influenced by the state of the pre-catalyst. Thus, it would be more correct to remove the main catalyst and rinse the preliminary one. As a result, we get the minimum resistance of the exhaust tract, these changes will not have any effect on the engine management system, but when the screw is screwed in, the readings of the exhaust gas temperature sensor will be erroneous and this is not good. But this is all theory, but in practice it is necessary to take into account the state of the catalyst honeycomb.

We draw up a work plan - we flush the preliminary catalyst and remove the main one, so you can start.

First you need to remove the exhaust manifold, the pre-catalytic converter is integrated in it:

Honeycombs are long, but rather thin channels, so we diagnose their condition carefully in the light, it is advisable to use a small but bright enough light source, the voltage of which does not exceed 12V (we observe safety rules).

The condition of the cells is almost ideal for a run of 200 thousand km.

When checked for light, a small defect was found, it does not pose any danger and harm:

Flushing is carried out in the event that there is no mechanical damage (these include subsidence, burnout, etc.), the presence of deposits that significantly reduce the flow area. The honeycomb must be thoroughly blown with a spray for carburetors.

If there are a lot of deposits, then after purging with a spray, the catalyst can be soaked overnight in a container with diesel fuel. Then repeat the purge. Do not forget about the exhaust gas recirculation channel (another pod of environmentalists):

If you nevertheless removed the pre-catalyst, then the channel will have to be thoroughly rinsed, since the crumb formed during removal can get into the inlet, and from there into the cylinders (it is easy to guess that the cylinder mirror will not be slightly damaged).

All operations that are carried out with the main catalyst are similar to those described for the pre-catalyst.

Next, we begin the assembly, you need to assemble in the reverse order, the gaskets should be new or very well cleaned old ones, we assemble carefully, do not forget anything.

In my case, it was enough to unscrew the two nuts securing the discharge pipe, as well as bend the route after the neutralizer to the side.

Surprisingly, the Japanese catalyst, after 200 thousand kilometers, is still full of strength.

Of course, a pitifully expensive catalyst, but it needs to be pierced, so we will make the engine breathe easier. It is very easy to punch the honeycomb of the catalyst with a hammer drill with a 23 mm winder drill.

I did not completely remove the catalyst honeycomb, I punched two holes, the excess was removed.

The purpose of only partial removal of the catalyst is simple - the honeycombs that remain around the walls will reduce resonance vibrations, and the punched hole will be enough to get rid of the increased resistance to the passage of exhaust gases in the area of the catalyst.

After removing the honeycombs, we remove their debris from the catalyst barrel. To do this, you need to start the car and gas well until the dust from the ceramics stops flowing. Then we put the exhaust pipe in place and enjoy the result.

The advantages of partial removal of the catalyst are that the level of mind is similar to the stock one, and by the same token I got rid of the rattling in the area of the catalyst barrel.

That's all, as you noticed, removing the catalyst will not present any difficulty. In the service, they tried to dissolve me into cutting the catalyst, cleaning and welding the body back. Accordingly, they would pay the price for "such a complicated" one, and besides, they would have bent down the corresponding useless work.

An important element of a car's exhaust system is the catalytic converter (catalytic converter). Its task is to reduce the amount of harmful combustion elements emitted into the atmosphere.

The average catalyst resource is about 100-150 thousand kilometers. It can run flawlessly longer or less, depending on the quality of the engine, the fuel used and a host of other factors. A clogged catalytic converter must be replaced or attempted to be cleaned. If the catalyst is cleaned correctly, it can work for some time before replacing it.

An experienced driver is unlikely to miss the moment when the exhaust system catalyst will no longer cope with its functions. There are a number of signs that indicate contamination:

Decrease in engine power when the car is moving, slow set of speed;
Problems with starting the engine;
Unstable idling;
Spontaneous shutdown of the motor;
Increased fuel consumption;
Burning Check Engine light.

Also, if the catalyst is heavily contaminated, the driver may notice that the color of the exhaust has changed.

You can check the catalyst for contamination by various methods, but it is most effective to remove it and inspect it visually.If the catalyst “honeycomb” contains resin fragments, combustion products, oil and other “debris” that interferes with the passage of exhaust gases, it must be eliminated as much as possible.

There are several ways to clean the catalyst yourself. Depending on how dirty the catalyst is, it is advisable to choose one or another method of cleaning it.

If the combustion products are not strongly and not massively "stuck" to the catalyst filter element, you can remove them using ordinary sandpaper.

It is quite simple to do this:

You will need to take fine-grained sandpaper and remove the catalyst;
Further, carefully, not pressing hard on the "honeycomb", you need to clean off the formed plaque in a circular motion;
When the filter element is cleaned, the remaining dirt is blown out using compressed air.

Important: In the process of cleaning the catalyst with sandpaper, do not overdo it with pressing force. Most often, the "honeycomb" of the catalytic converter is made of ceramic. If you press on them too hard, they risk breaking, and you will need to buy a new catalyst.

If the catalyst is heavily contaminated, you can use "chemistry" to clean it. In car stores, you can find special products for flushing and regenerating the catalyst. If it is not possible to purchase such a tool, carburetor fluid or ethanol will cope with the task of cleaning the filter element.

The catalyst should be cleaned with special chemicals in accordance with the instructions. If carburetor fluid is used, the cleaning process is as follows:

It is necessary to take a plastic container, a bucket will do, in which the catalyst can be vertically located;
The catalyst is then removed from the vehicle and inspected for damage. If they are absent, you can start cleaning, otherwise you will have to think about replacing the filter element;
The catalyst “honeycomb” is abundantly watered with carburetor cleaner, after which the part is wrapped in rags and placed in a plastic container;
After 20-30 minutes, it is necessary to rinse the “honeycomb” of the catalyst under the pressure of hot water.
Important: Do not use this procedure in your home bathroom, as the chemicals used in carburetor cleaners can corrode bathroom enamel, sinks and damage other furnishings;
After rinsing the catalyst with water, dry the part and blow it out with compressed air;
Then repeat the procedure from the beginning.

If the catalyst is critically contaminated, two cleanings may not be enough. In such a situation, it is recommended to use more powerful cleaning agents (eg kerosene).

Often, in order to save money and time, drivers abandon the idea of cleaning and replacing the catalyst, punching new holes in it or drilling them. Such a solution will allow the engine power to be restored, but the car will have violated the indicators for the harmfulness of emissions into the atmosphere. In addition, the noise level from the exhaust pipe, which occurs when the vehicle is moving, will increase. Such methods of "cleaning" the catalyst are unacceptable, and during long-term operation of the engine with a damaged filter element, various problems may arise with it.

What to do if the catalyst is faulty? Change or not, and what are the consequences?

These questions arise for all owners of cars with solid mileage, and sometimes not at all old. It happens for everyone in about the same way. At some point, the car owner begins to notice that the car has begun to drive worse, fuel consumption has increased, while the dynamics have worsened, as if someone is holding the car and does not allow it to accelerate. Further - diagnostics and diagnosis. The most interesting events begin here.

But what kind of device is this "Catalytic converter", what does it give and why is it needed? This device looks like a muffler or resonator.There are collector and main catalysts.

Manifold (left) and main (right) catalysts

Inside, there are ceramic blocks with holes resembling a honeycomb. These "honeycombs" are covered with special alloys of expensive and very expensive metals from iridium to platinum. Exhaust gases, having a very high temperature, passing through the honeycomb, enter into a chemical reaction with these metals, are converted into less harmful ones. That is, this device is used to clean the exhaust and is installed on all modern cars, from Euro2 to Euro5.

During the operation of the car, this device does not remind of itself for a very long time. But low-quality fuel and high mileage gradually "kill" those same ceramic blocks. In the case of low-quality fuel, the ceramic blocks are simply baked, the honeycomb melts and does not allow exhaust gases to pass through. Excessive pressure builds up in the exhaust manifold. The release of gases is difficult, the wear of the piston rings and valves increases, the engine starts worse, slowly accelerates the car, and at the same time dips and jerking occur.

Even if the car has been driving all the time on good, high-quality fuel, but the mileage has exceeded two hundred thousand kilometers, the metal spray layer on the honeycomb becomes thinner and disappears altogether. The catalyst stops performing the neutralization of harmful substances in the exhaust gases.

Catalyst filter after prolonged use

Changes in exhaust quality are recorded by sensors - lambda probes. The first is installed at the inlet, and the second is at the outlet of the device. The information from the sensors is transmitted to the ECU (electronic control unit) of the engine. If the parameters do not match, the ECU makes adjustments to the quality characteristics of the fuel, and sends a signal to the dashboard, the "Chec Engine" display lights up. With such a malfunction, it is possible to operate the car for some time, but the problem is growing and can be expensive - not only the catalyst will need to be repaired, but also the piston group. It is impossible to delay. Repair needed.

Catalyst malfunction lamp

The first and most natural step is to contact specialists at a serious, large and beautiful dealership. Nice warm environment, friendly managers, etc. After some time, after the inspection, a preliminary invoice will be presented for the replacement of the faulty catalytic converter. And, if you are satisfied with the cost, the replacement will occur, but most likely not quickly. First, the dealer will order the necessary spare parts and components, appoint a date and time for the next visit to the station for replacement. After a successful repair, the invoice for payment will grow up a little and more than once, but as agreed with the customer. Having parted with your money, you will get an engine working “like new”, environmentally friendly “exhaust” and warranty obligations of the contractor.

Catalyst repair by an authorized dealer is the most expensive, but also the safest option.

This option will suit the owners of expensive cars. The cost of a catalyst can be from 6,000 rubles without the cost of installation on a Lada Grant, and up to absolutely fantastic amounts of several hundred thousand rubles for premium and business class cars. The high cost is due not only to the presence of expensive materials in the catalyst, but also to the workmanship and brand.

Replacing it at the dealer will not affect the performance of the car in any way and it will run as it should.

Having learned the cost of the catalyst and work from a dealer, many go to craftsmen. Those, in turn, offer a cheap and radical solution to the problem. Namely, knock out (remove) the catalyst from the housing. The operation is quite simple and not very expensive. To do this, the catalyst is removed, regardless of whether it is a collector or a main one, it is cut, and for some, the joint of the upper body is expanded, then the inner body is cut.Its spent ceramic blocks are removed from it, after which it is welded using a welding machine, first the inner case, then the heat-insulating material is placed in place, and the outer case is welded or crimped. Install the received part in place and that's it.

But not for Euro4 and Euro5. For these cars, it is necessary to "flush" the ECU, or install a "trick" on the lower lambda probe. This is necessary in order to bypass or trick the sensors that read the characteristics of the exhaust gases at the inlet and outlet of the catalyst. Based on this data, the ECU adjusts the fuel composition.

You can see more details about this method in the video:

Replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester

The "informal" types of repair described above have their advantages:

This is, first of all, the cost. You can keep within 10 thousand rubles with the installation of a flame arrester and 3-4 thousand just "breaking through" the catalyst.
The car will go faster.
You can pour 92 gasoline, there is nothing to burn out anyway.
Long service life of the product. With high-quality welding work, such a device will last from 3 to 5 years.
Facilitates engine operation. The gases do not meet resistance and leave easily.

But there will be bad consequences:

The exhaust sound will be sharper and louder in almost all cases.
The life of the rest of the exhaust system will decrease because the exhaust gases will go directly to the high temperature.
The most important thing is that the composition of the exhaust will not correspond to the declared characteristics. It's not just ecology that people usually spit on. But this is also the difficulty in passing the technical inspection. Meanwhile, the conditions for carrying out maintenance are constantly becoming stricter.

The high cost of materials and work has led to the emergence of alternative types of repair and replacement of the catalyst, which are able to satisfy both the economical and those who care about the environment. If such a problem has arisen, and you feel sorry for the money to replace it with the original catalyst, or you simply don’t have it, you can use the services of numerous companies engaged in solving this problem.

This is how universal catalysts appeared on the auto parts market. Installation of such a device will be inexpensive, you just need to choose it in accordance with the engine size.

Replacing a faulty one with a new one is not difficult. The pipe is removed, the old catalyst is cut out with a grinder, and another is welded in its place. If you have skills in welding, you can do this work yourself.

Replacing the catalyst with a universal one

In this case, there is no need to "reflash" the ECU and change the factory settings - the exhaust system will work normally. The service life of a multipurpose catalyst will largely depend on the quality of the fuel. Environmental performance will be in line with regulations.

In addition, there is an even more economical option. This is the repair of the catalyst using repair ceramic cartridges, which are inserted into the housing in place of the failed ones. These parts are available, but carrying out such repairs will require skills and the necessary tools from the contractor. It will be necessary not only to remove and put in place the catalyst, but also to open it, replace the cartridges, weld the housing, restore the thermal insulation and outer skin. The result is a complete catalyst that meets all the requirements.

Replacing the catalyst cartridge

You can also watch a video on replacing the catalyst cartridge:

Such a replacement or repair will allow you to safely go to the inspection, and pass it according to the law, and not look for "bugs" who are ready to sell you a "phony" technical inspection coupon for little money.What decision to make - to change, punch or repair, everyone decides for himself. But when you make a decision, think about those people who are moving with you in the stream and in traffic jams are forced to breathe what your car and hundreds of others are spewing out. Think about yours, and about the health of people close to you. About the rest of your parents and children at night.A catalytic converter is used to clean the vehicle exhaust gases. This device is called "neutralizer" and "catalyst". As a result of the operation of the equipment, mechanical damage occurs. If the catalytic converter is clogged, then flushing is possible, allowing it to return to its operational properties.As a result of mechanical damage, it becomes necessary to replace the catalyst. In each specific case, it is necessary to adequately assess the economic feasibility of repair or replacement.Two types of catalytic converters are installed on modern vehicles:The pre-catalytic converter is built directly into the exhaust manifold. From a theoretical point of view, the catalyst does not contribute to the functioning of the powertrain. It helps to increase the resistance of the exhaust tract. As a result, the engine requires a rich mixture to maintain optimum performance.As a result of using a catalytic converter, the power of the power unit decreases and fuel consumption increases. But this is not always the case. On some car brands, the powertrain control system works in close tandem with the exhaust gas cleaning system. Therefore, before removing the neutralizer, it is necessary to assess the likely consequences. This will be helped by numerous forums dedicated to different brands and models of vehicles.It is possible that after removing the device, the CHECK indicator on the dashboard will light up, and the power unit will operate in emergency mode.Also, removing the catalytic converter can cause a decrease in the power of the power unit and an increased fuel consumption. Therefore, each car owner who wishes to conduct an experiment with his vehicle, it is advisable to communicate with the owners of the same vehicles.Oxygen sensors work in tandem with the neutralizer. They determine the ratio and composition of the combustible mixture. Thus, oxygen sensors control the catalyst.Before considering catalyst recovery, let's focus on removing this device from the exhaust system of the car.Usually one of the sensors does not monitor the condition of the converter. In turn, the second temperature sensor will need to be fooled. For this, a special screw is mounted under it. As a result of such actions, the readings of the temperature sensor will correspond to those that were when the neutralizer was installed. On some vehicles, both sensors monitor the condition of the converters. Therefore, after removing the device, most likely, the car owner will need to flash or correct the power unit control unit.On many cars, oxygen sensors are directly related to the pre-catalytic converter. Therefore, it is most convenient for the car owner to remove the main catalyst, and rinse the preliminary one.By performing the above operations, you can minimize the resistance level of the exhaust tract. At the same time, the powertrain control system will operate in standard mode. A significant disadvantage of the considered method is that the temperature sensor, under which the screw is installed, will send incorrect signals.In fact, this is all a theoretical part.If we turn to practice, then it should be taken into account in what state the cells of the neutralizer are.Quite common are the questions of how to fix the catalyst and can it be done? If the device is burnt out, it must be disposed of. Flushing is also challenging. If paraffin and sulfur have accumulated inside, then even special chemicals and a high pressure washer may not be able to cope with rinsing. You need to diagnose the condition of the catalyst yourself. To do this, you need to start the car and put your hand to the exhaust pipe. If exhaust gases do not come out of it, then the problem lies in the converter. As a rule, the breakdown does not occur spontaneously, but manifests itself over time. Malfunction symptoms:

traction disappears;

engine starts poorly;

turnovers disappear, etc.

Excessive fuel consumption can also be the cause.If the neutralizer sags, and even more so, burns out, then, as already noted, it must be disposed of. Let's start with a pre-catalyst. Operating procedure:

dismantling the exhaust manifold. It is in it that the preliminary neutralizer is installed;

check of honeycombs. These are the thin channels. A bright light source will help to make sure there is a gap. To do this, you need to use an ordinary 12 volt flashlight;

Flushing. It is carried out only if there is no mechanical damage. If the device is burnt out or there is a drawdown, it must be replaced.

Carburetor spray is used for flushing. Novice car enthusiasts are interested in the question of how to flush a diesel catalyst? Carburetor spray is also used for this purpose. If it is not possible to clean the honeycomb, then it is recommended to soak the neutralizer in diesel fuel for several hours. The exhaust gas recirculation line should also be cleaned.The principle of cleaning the main and preliminary neutralizers is practically the same. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. It is advisable to install new gaskets. If these elements are absent, then the old gaskets must be thoroughly cleaned of contamination.Typically, two nuts are used to secure the device in question. After that, you will need to bend the track and dismantle the device. You can study the features of removing the main catalyst for a specific car brand in the owner's manual. Practice shows that high-quality converters serve car owners 200,000 kilometers and even more.To simplify the work of the power unit, it is enough to break through the honeycomb of the neutralizer. This can be done with a hammer drill and a winder tipped drill.In this case, you can remove the honeycomb or leave them directly in the device. In this case, we are talking about the partial removal of the converter. Thus, the holes in the honeycomb will reduce the level of resistance during the passage of the exhaust gases. At the same time, the remains of the honeycomb will reduce the level of resonant vibrations.To eliminate the honeycomb residues that got into the catalyst barrel as a result of drilling, it is necessary to start the engine and press the accelerator several times. After that, the discharge pipe is mounted. Feedback from car owners suggests that the experimental method allows you to get rid of the rattling that occurs in the neutralizer barrel. Thus, the procedure for removing the catalytic converter is straightforward. The car owner does not have to contact the service and pay a lot of money for it.

According to world, European, and now Russian standards, the level of CO2 emissions into the atmosphere should not exceed the standards established by GOST for each type of engine. For example, GOST R 52033-2003 is provided for gasoline engines, and GOST R 52160-2003 for engines with diesel fuel. Simply put, motorists in our country now (since 2003) live according to Euro-3 standards, where the total mass of CO2 emissions should not exceed 2.3 gkm, and according to Euro-4 standards, where CO emissions up to 1.0 gkm are also not must be exceeded - otherwise a fine, and in the future the impossibility of passing MOT and obtaining a diagnostic card that replaced the technical inspection coupons

For these purposes, it is necessary to have a working catalyst in the exhaust system of any car. In addition, the new Euro-5 standards, for which there are no prerequisites in Russia yet, imply an even greater reduction in harmful emissions. After all of the above, it's really worth considering how far you can go without problems and how long you will drive. However, the life and operation of a car in Russia carries with it several troubles, the main of which can be immediately called the quality of fuel. Only Russian high-quality fuel contains tetraethyl lead, which instantly destroys any catalysts.

Before discussing the repair of the catalyst with your own hands, you need to understand why the hell it breaks down at all and what leads to breakdowns. We jointly found out one reason - the poor quality of the fuel that emits tetraethyl lead, which has a powerful effect on the oxidation device, which is what any catalyst is. The second executioner of catalysts can be safely called our roads - more precisely, again, their amazing quality in every sense. Indeed, only on our roads it can shake so much that it is strange why the catalyst does not immediately fall out.

Ideally, no one repairs the catalysts, because the cellular ceramic component of this device simply cannot be repaired. There are several options for solving the problem, but only a couple of them in reality are worthy of attention and consideration. Considering that global manufacturers (except domestic ones) set the bar for replacing the catalyst after 100 thousand kilometers, then by Russian standards this distance can be reduced to 60-80 thousand kilometers, taking into account the quality of fuel and roads, especially since on domestically produced cars in general catalysts were not installed until 2000.

And yet, let's return to our rams, that is, to the replacement and other possible options for action in the event of the catalyst's death.

One way to solve the problem is to completely remove the burnt or broken catalyst. But get ready to change the exhaust system literally every 20 thousand kilometers.
You can knock out the honeycomb of the catalyst, but this threatens the ingress of ceramic dust into the cylinder block, which means the close death of the entire engine.
A complete replacement for the original analogue, but it is not cheap at all and no one will give a guarantee that after 50 thousand km it will not burn to hell again or break.
The most common, cheap and more or less reliable, from a technical point of view, is the option of replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester.

With it, you can even go through MOT, the more you can change it yourself and there are almost no complaints from the authorities.

Today I want to talk about catalyst repair. For many, a check lights up when it fails. That is, a check engine error, says that the exhaust is not in order, the gases do not go out normally and you need to look at the muffler. Of course "Check" - can burn not only because of this part of the muffler, but today I want to talk to you about this. Or rather, can it be repaired? Read on ...After installing this trick, you can reset the "CHECK" error, and that's it. The error will not show up again. As a result, we get the restoration of characteristics in terms of dynamics and consumption. And also there is no need to spend money on expensive replacement of the catalyst. However, in this way we simply deceived the sensor, but after a while you will still need to change the catalyst. After all, there is a downside - the car has lost power, the exhaust is not going properly, and fuel consumption will also increase.Of course, for a short time, that's enough. Yes, and you can also sell a car, although this is a little dishonest.In cases where the neutralizer is removed or changed to flame arrester , The ECU starts to malfunction, causing emergency operation. At such moments, experienced motorists use a corrector for the operation of an oxygen lambda probe, which allows you to avoid errors and continue to operate the car.

The ECU puts the engine into emergency mode, when the operation of the engine is carried out according to the specified fuel cards without taking into account the readings of the oxygen sensors.

The "Check Engine" indicator on the dashboard lights up and the enriched fuel mixture enters the cylinders.

Carbon deposits on the spark plugs increase, the power of the internal combustion engine decreases and the oil becomes contaminated.

Increased fuel consumption entails unnecessary financial costs.

Almost all car manufacturers recommend replacing a faulty converter. But not every car owner will go for it, because the price of some copies, for example, for VAZ reaches 60,000 rubles. It is also worth adding to this the cost of installing the device. Therefore, many motorists are interested in what a do-it-yourself catalyst snag and the scheme for its implementation are.The essence of the emulator is to change the actual readings of the sensors, after which the ECU switches to normal operation. In this case, the neutralizer itself can be cut out or replaced with a flame arrester. The simulator installation procedure is no more complicated than increase in clearance Renault Duster.To change the readings of the oxygen sensor of the exhaust system, our motorists use several methods, the choice depends on the design features of the car and the capabilities of the motorist himself:

Mechanical spacer for lambda probe.

A spacer for a sensor with a built-in mini-catalyst.

Use of electronic simulators.

For the implementation of mechanical blende on the catalyst with your own hands, it is recommended to use blanks made of heat-resistant steel or bronze. So the parts will not deform from high temperatures. There are two designs, but both require a lathe or the help of an experienced specialist turner.It is a sleeve 40-100 mm long. On the one hand, a standard sensor is screwed in, and on the other, gas circulation is limited by a small diameter hole. The essence of the "device" is that the composition of the exhaust mixture is averaged, because the lambda probe is removed from the gas stream itself and, accordingly, catches less toxic substances. Due to this, it turns out to deceive the ECU.The standard drawing with the dimensions of the spacer can be changed in terms of dimensions, it depends on the model and brand of the car. The optimal diameter of the inlet remains unchanged - 1.5-2 mm. In some cases, the length of the sleeve may not allow it to be installed in its original place. As a result, you have to weld the mount in a different place in the exhaust pipe.

Exhaust gases enter the bushing body through a small bore hole.

In the volume of the spacer, excess CH and CO are oxidized by oxygen, as a result of which the concentration of harmful substances is reduced.

The ongoing processes change the shape of the sinusoid, and the electronic system considers that the catalytic converter is operating normally.

Hand-made according to the above scheme, the catalyst blende has a disadvantage similar to the previous version. Here the standard probe will be raised by 32 mm, although this is less than 40-100 mm.The installation procedure is not difficult, and begins with placing the car on an overpass or lift. Further actions take place according to the following scheme:

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

Unscrew the controller.

Screw the sleeve onto the probe.

Screw the upgraded assembly back into place.

Connect the battery.

After the first start, the "Check Engine" signal should go out. The motor will now run normally.This electronic emulator is a microprocessor device consisting of a single-chip microcircuit. The principle of its operation is based on the formation of an output signal, which in shape corresponds to the information with a working neutralizer. This option for self-implementation is difficult, so you should immediately consider a simpler method. To implement it, you need to prepare:

Electric soldering iron.

Solder and rosin.

Knife and side cutters.

Resistance 200 KOhm with a power of 0.25 W.

Non-polar capacitor with a capacity of 4.7 MkF.

The principle of operation of the system consists in averaging the readings of the oxygen sensor, which is installed after the neutralizer. The way to connect emulator components is simple and versatile. All elements are connected directly to the conductors of the vehicle's on-board network. Before connecting electronic trickery to the catalyst with your own hands, disconnect the terminals battery to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit.
Image - DIY catalytic converter repair

After the implementation of the project, the car demonstrates good dynamics. However, the effect of re-enrichment of the combustible mixture may appear, which causes the deposition of a layer of soot in the exhaust manifold. In addition, on some models, error P0133 appears, indicating a low reaction rate of the lambda probe.

On the shelves of car dealerships there are all kinds of parts for tuning the exhaust system. The production of mechanical simulators of the normal operation of the catalytic converter is made of bronze or chrome-plated steel. The price of such devices ranges from 400 to 800 rubles, and a standard installation at a service station will cost about 500 rubles.

Video (click to play).

A spacer with a minicatalyst is offered much more expensive than an elementary analogue, its cost is 1,500-4,000 rubles. Simple electronic emulators of industrial production are sold for 1,500-3,000 rubles. The range of prices for flashing the ECU software is quite wide - from 1,000 to 30,000 rubles.

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