DIY car catalyst repair

In detail: do-it-yourself car catalyst repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A catalyst is a part of the exhaust system in a car that is used to clean the exhaust gases. The location of the catalyst differs depending on the specific model, but it is usually located on or behind the downpipe or in the manifold. In the design, the main detail is a honeycomb made of metal or ceramics. Thus, the exhaust mixture is purified, and the amount of carbon dioxide in it is reduced, which makes it possible to achieve compliance with the norms and standards enshrined at the legislative level. If the catalyst fails, you can repair it yourself.

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When using the car, problems always occur that negatively affect the characteristics of the car. Exhaust system repairs should be performed if you notice any of the following symptoms:
  1. Loss of power (the car does not move as before, acceleration is much slower, especially under heavy loads);
  2. Unstable idling (the engine runs unevenly, and the car tachometer jumps constantly);
  3. Vibration (clogged cells in poor condition are gradually destroyed, which leads to its destruction into small parts, which hit the outer catalyst housing; also occurs if there was a strong impact).

There are several reasons for such problems. Firstly, it is the use of low quality fuel. It releases the substance tetraethyl lead, which has a negative effect. Secondly, bad roads.

That's right, because from constant vibration and shaking, the honeycomb in the catalyst can collapse and crumble. Moreover, hitting a large hole or bump (stone) can lead to a strong blow to the part, and this promises him a replacement or repair, which is not always possible to do with his own hands.

Video (click to play).

Frankly speaking, it is almost impossible to fix this part due to the peculiarities of its design. Typically, the catalyst is used for about 100,000 km, followed by a mandatory replacement. In our conditions, poor fuel and roads significantly reduce this figure.

Despite this, a car catalyst can be repaired by hand by:

  • Rinsing;
  • Blende installations.

It is possible to partially extend the operation of the catalyst by flushing it. However, this procedure is only justified when the control system shows an increased level of resistance to exhaust gases passing through the manifold. If the part is damaged, then such repairs will not bring any results.

The spoof is a special metal device that fits into the exhaust system. A lambda probe is mounted in it, which allows you to deceive the electronic system in the car and send it signals about the absence of problems. This is not a solution to the problem, but only a postponement for a while.

As already mentioned, the repair of individual catalyst parts is rarely possible, and therefore most often they resort to one of the following options:

Dismantling the catalyst means simply installing a pipe instead. But this option does not allow to reduce the temperature of the gases, which leads to the rapid destruction of the entire exhaust and a high level of noise generated while driving. If you have the necessary equipment, then you can do the repairs yourself.

The best option is to replace this part. However, it costs a lot and is sold only from officials. Many drivers simply do not want to spend a lot on it.

Sometimes honeycomb removal is used, but this method also leads to accelerated wear of the exhaust system. By the way, you can also buy a universal catalyst, which is characterized by a balance between cost and quality.

Image - DIY car catalyst repair

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04/16/2015 Catalytic converter is an important part of a vehicle's exhaust system. With the help of this element, the exhaust gases are purified before being released into the atmosphere. Depending on the characteristics of a particular car, model and manufacturer, the location of the catalyst is different. On most modern cars, the device in question is located in the area of ​​the gas intake pipe. Passing through the catalyst, the gas stream is purified. Thus, the level of carbon dioxide is reduced and the exhaust is less polluting to the environment. In order for the exhaust to comply with the required standards and not contribute to environmental pollution, it is necessary to maintain the proper operation of the catalyst. If an exhaust system component is out of order, it is easy to repair it yourself. Before starting work, we will consider the most common catalyst problems and their causes.

During the operation of a car, malfunctions often occur that directly or indirectly affect the productivity of important systems. Diagnostics and maintenance of the exhaust system is required if you find:

  • Decrease in vehicle power. The vehicle is reluctant to pick up speed or move slowly under increased load.
  • Uneven engine performance. The motor is unstable when idling. In this case, the measuring instruments may show incorrect results.
  • During the movement of the car, significant vibrations appeared.

There are several of the most common causes of these problems. One is using a low quality fuel mixture or mixing types of gasoline. As you know, the quality of fuel and working fluids plays an important role in the correct and long-term operation of the vehicle. By using low grade raw materials, engine and exhaust system components are subject to premature wear. The second reason is the poor quality of the road surface. When constant vibrations occur during the movement of a car, vulnerable parts of the exhaust system are subject to mechanical destruction. Thus, it becomes clear that, despite the prudence and driving style of the motorist, the components of the exhaust system gradually deteriorate and require timely maintenance.

Fortunately, you can fix minor damage to the exhaust system with your own hands. Thus, it is possible to restore the function of the car system and save on the services of a specialized service.

As a rule, the main method of restoring the function of the exhaust system is to replace the catalyst. This device is rather difficult to restore due to its complex design and rather fragile structure. An element of the exhaust system is changed every one hundred thousand kilometers, subject to operating rules and optimal road conditions. The roads of our country leave much to be desired and require premature replacement of an element of the exhaust system. However, replacing the catalyst is not the only way to solve the problem. Some motorists, known for such moments of maintenance of the exhaust system:

  • Flushing the catalyst.
  • Installation of a device that deceives the vehicle control system.

Flushing is an effective preventive method to increase the life of the element. This procedure is relevant only if the element is fully suitable. If the structure and function of the catalyst is disturbed, flushing will not bring the desired result. In this case, it is necessary to promptly replace the catalyst.

As you know, the repair of an element is impossible in most cases, therefore the most effective way to restore the function of the exhaust system is to replace the catalyst. In this case, there are several developments:

  • Dismantling the device.
  • His subsequent replacement.
  • Removing honeycombs.

Some motorists completely dismantle the element and install a special tube in its place. Unfortunately, this technology is not conducive to cooling the exhaust gases. In this regard, there is a rapid wear of the components of the exhaust system. The most effective way is to replace the catalyst. Replacing the catalyst is often done by the hands of a motorist and is a simple procedure that allows you to fully restore the function of the exhaust system. Replacing the catalyst will require a fair amount of attention and the availability of the appropriate part. The most productive are original elements from trusted manufacturers.

Preventive flushing of the catalyst without removing is carried out using specially developed tools:

1. GAT DPF & Catalyst Cleaning Foam - high performance foam catalyst cleaner (Aerosol can with flexible probe).

Volume - 400 ml. (enough for flushing one catalyst).

Shake vigorously for 1 minute before use!

Establish access to the filter by removing the lambda probe in front of the catalytic converter.

Directly through the flexible spray probe (included in the kit) inserted into the opened hole at the catalyst inlet, spray the agent (with the engine off) at several intervals of 5 seconds with a pause of 5 seconds until foam is visible at the inlet.

Then remove the spray probe and fit the removed sensor.

When the catalyst is washed, the soot formed on it dissolves into microparticles, contributing to its burning out during operation.

The agent is applicable for all catalysts.

After completing the flushing procedure, pour GAT CAT Clean into the fuel tank at a rate of 60 liters. fuel.

If there was a diagnostics that showed that the catalyst was clogged and the resistance to the passage of exhaust gases increased significantly, then the catalyst needs to be flushed. If flushing is not possible (in case of mechanical damage), then the catalyst will have to be replaced, if the replacement of the catalyst is not economically feasible, the catalyst will have to be removed.

Most modern cars are equipped with two converters: primary and preliminary.

Theoretically, catalytic converters are harmful for the engine, since the resistance of the exhaust tract increases significantly, moreover, in order to maintain the required catalyst temperature in some modes, it becomes necessary to enrich the mixture.

As a result, this leads to a noticeable decrease in the characteristics of the engine in terms of fuel consumption and power. But sometimes, simply removing the catalyst can make matters worse, as the exhaust aftertreatment system on most vehicles is tightly coupled to the engine management system. There is a possibility that the engine will work in emergency mode (CHECK ENGINE), which will undoubtedly lead to power limitation, as well as increased fuel consumption.

In the event that you nevertheless decide to remove the catalyst, then you first need to find out about the likely consequences and methods that will help to get around them.It is advisable to talk with the owners of the same cars (there are a huge number of clubs of car lovers of a certain brand on the Internet).

In general, in the case indicated in the diagram, the first oxygen sensor does not monitor the state of the catalysts, the removal of the latter will not affect its readings, the second temperature sensor will have to be deceived, for this we install a screwdriver under the sensor, we do this in order for the sensor readings without catalyst were equal or approximate to those with the installed catalyst. If the second sensor is also a lambda, you need to be more careful, since after removing the catalyst, it will most likely require a flashing of the engine control unit (in some cases, a correction can be made).

In the case shown in the diagram, the readings of the sensors are influenced by the state of the pre-catalyst. Thus, it would be more correct to remove the main catalyst and rinse the preliminary one. As a result, we get the minimum resistance of the exhaust tract, these changes will not have any effect on the engine management system, but when the screw is screwed in, the readings of the exhaust gas temperature sensor will be erroneous and this is not good. But this is all theory, but in practice it is necessary to take into account the state of the catalyst honeycomb.

We draw up a work plan - we flush the preliminary catalyst and remove the main one, so you can start.

First you need to remove the exhaust manifold, the pre-catalytic converter is integrated in it:

Honeycombs are long, but rather thin channels, so we diagnose their condition carefully in the light, it is advisable to use a small but bright enough light source, the voltage of which does not exceed 12V (we observe safety rules).

The condition of the cells is almost ideal for a run of 200 thousand km.

When checked for light, a small defect was found, it does not pose any danger and harm:

Flushing is carried out in the event that there is no mechanical damage (these include subsidence, burnout, etc.), the presence of deposits that significantly reduce the flow area. The honeycomb must be thoroughly blown with a spray for carburetors.

If there are a lot of deposits, then after purging with a spray, the catalyst can be soaked overnight in a container with diesel fuel. Then repeat the purge. Do not forget about the exhaust gas recirculation channel (another pod of environmentalists):

If you nevertheless removed the pre-catalyst, then the channel will have to be thoroughly rinsed, since the crumb formed during removal can get into the inlet, and from there into the cylinders (it is easy to guess that the cylinder mirror will not be slightly damaged).

All operations that are carried out with the main catalyst are similar to those described for the pre-catalyst.

Next, we begin the assembly, you need to assemble in the reverse order, the gaskets should be new or very well cleaned old ones, we assemble carefully, do not forget anything.

In my case, it was enough to unscrew the two nuts securing the discharge pipe, as well as bend the route after the neutralizer to the side.

Surprisingly, the Japanese catalyst, after 200 thousand kilometers, is still full of strength.

Of course, a pitifully expensive catalyst, but it needs to be pierced, so we will make the engine breathe easier. It is very easy to punch the honeycomb of the catalyst with a hammer drill with a 23 mm winder drill.

I did not completely remove the catalyst honeycomb, I punched two holes, the excess was removed.

The purpose of only partial removal of the catalyst is simple - the honeycombs that remain around the walls will reduce resonance vibrations, and the punched hole will be enough to get rid of the increased resistance to the passage of exhaust gases in the area of ​​the catalyst.

After removing the honeycombs, we remove their debris from the catalyst barrel.To do this, you need to start the car and gas well until the dust from the ceramics stops flowing. Then we put the exhaust pipe in place and enjoy the result.

The advantages of partial removal of the catalyst are that the level of mind is similar to the stock one, and by the same token I got rid of the rattling in the area of ​​the catalyst barrel.

That's all, as you noticed, removing the catalyst will not present any difficulty. In the service, they tried to dissolve me into cutting the catalyst, cleaning and welding the body back. Accordingly, they would pay the price for "such a complicated" one, and besides, they would have bent down the corresponding useless work.

To neutralize toxic gases emitted from the internal combustion engine, the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter installed at the outlet of the exhaust manifold. Although the service life of the element is about 150 thousand km, changing it is rather expensive - the spare part is too expensive. A natural question arises whether it is possible to clean the catalyst and thus extend the resource. Answer: cleaning is permissible, but there is no guarantee of a positive result. The problem is widespread and deserves more detailed consideration.

The unit, which looks like a resonator tank, is a container with two connecting pipes. Inside there are small ceramic honeycombs covered with a catalytic layer based on precious metals (hence the high price of the spare part). Waste flue gases clog the cells with soot and carbon deposits, gradually making the neutralizer impassable.

Image - DIY car catalyst repair

Cleaning or flushing the catalyst will give a positive result and extend the life of the element in such cases:
  1. If the procedure is performed as a preventive measure, long before the problem occurs.
  2. When the honeycomb is not damaged and is simply clogged with soot (the initial stage of element wear).
  3. If the ceramic structure is not melted due to the use of leaded gasoline.

In other cases, the neutralizer in the car will have to be replaced with a new one or a cheaper flame arrester plus an emulator for the correct operation of the lambda probe should be installed.

Clogging of the flow section of the element is characterized by the following features:

  • the engine noticeably loses in power, acceleration becomes sluggish;
  • fuel consumption, on the contrary, increases;
  • difficult starting of the motor;
  • unreasonable stop of the engine at idle speed.

In a car equipped with two lambda probes, a problem is indicated by the Check Engine indicator on the driver's dashboard. The electronics registers a decrease in the performance of the converter and issues a corresponding error.

Image - DIY car catalyst repair

For the successful cleaning of the catalyst, it is important to catch the moment when the ceramic filling has not yet had time to become unusable. Hence the recommendation - it is better to flush the element in advance, without waiting for alarm signals. The procedure will require a minimum of effort and financial costs on the part of the car owner.

Car enthusiasts and technicians of service stations practice 3 methods of cleaning the catalyst from oil sludge and soot:

  1. Preventive cleaning with a detergent is carried out on a mileage of 70-100 thousand km without removing it from the car.
  2. Mechanical cleaning.
  3. Multiple rinsing.

The last 2 options imply dismantling and partial disassembly of the catalytic converter.

For preventive maintenance of catalysts, special fluids such as Hi-Gear HG3270 are commercially available. The product is simply poured from the bottle into the fuel tank, then the car is operated in the same mode. The soot removed from the unit is thrown out together with the exhaust gases.

For mechanical cleaning it is necessary to have a compressor and prepare fine sandpaper. The method cannot be called successful, since only external contaminants are removed, part of the carbon remains in the depths of the ceramic honeycomb.

A frequently used chemical for cleaning a removed neutralizer is an ABRO aerosol liquid used to flush carburetors.

Image - DIY car catalyst repair

It has been proven by practice that the liquid does not harm an expensive catalytic coating. Sometimes, at their own peril and risk, motorists use kerosene, ethanol and other chemicals, but it is better not to use such folk remedies. It is not known how they affect the high-value item of a particular vehicle.

Preventive flushing of the catalyst with Hi-Gear and the like is carried out by emptying the bottle directly into the gas tank immediately before refueling the car. No further action is required on the part of the motorist - during the ride, the ceramic honeycomb of the element is cleaned on its own, the dirt flies out through the exhaust tract.

In order to clean or rinse a clogged neutralizer with your own hands, you will have to dismantle it. Drive the car into the inspection ditch, turn off the lambda probes in the car and unscrew the clamps holding the unit to the exhaust pipe or exhaust manifold. Then follow this algorithm:

  1. Thoroughly purge the catalyst with a compressor on both sides, pumping up a pressure of 7-9 bar.
  2. Fill ceramic honeycomb with ABRO Carburetor Spray Foam. Pour the product through both pipes.
  3. Wrap the neutralizer with a cloth and wait 20 minutes.
  4. Thoroughly rinse the inner mesh of the element with hot water and blow it out with a compressor.
  5. Repeat the operation one more time, dry the catalyst and make sure that the ceramic honeycomb is visible through. Place the unit back on the vehicle.

Note. In some auto models, the lambda probe is installed directly in the neutralizing element housing. Before flushing, the sensors should be unscrewed and mechanically removed from the soot.

If you can't clean the catalyst with aerosol foam, you have nothing more to lose. Soak the cell in kerosene or diesel fuel and leave for 12-24 hours. To be sure, diesel fuel can be diluted with a small amount of acetone or solvent 646 (ratio of about 4: 1). After 24 hours, follow the aerosol cleaning procedure as described above.

Image - DIY car catalyst repair

Mechanical cleaning is carried out with fine sandpaper with periodic blowing with a compressor. The outer meshes are cleaned carefully, with a slight pressure, so that the fragile ceramic does not crack. It will not be possible to remove carbon deposits from the internal cavities in this way.

Often, motorists, instead of flushing, pierce the contaminated honeycomb with a metal object to free the passage for flue gases. It is permissible to use such extreme measures only in one case - you have tried all the flushing agents and did not succeed.

Please note: driving with a punctured catalyst not only harms the environment, but also hits your pocket: the lambda probe "sees" raw exhaust gases, and the controller switches to emergency mode with increased fuel consumption. To solve the problem, you need to install the "snag" of the oxygen sensor, which leads to additional costs.